Hi everyone, thank you for your many fair questions and remarks about this staircase in the comments. I’ll try to answer them all but thought I would summarize the most interesting ones here: - Strength: I built this staircase about a year ago and used it to hall big lumber and furniture upstairs, I’ve had no issue with it what so ever. Although it could have been even stronger if I didn’t recess the anker bolts in the sides. (In hindsight, don't know why I did that) but again, its plenty strong. - Railing: I’m planning to install a railing on the wall. I want to keep the middle open so I can easily move big pieces upstairs. - Safety: here in Belgium (probably different from the US) only new builds and classified renovations need to be approved by an inspector. This isn’t the case here but that’s a legal issue I won’t bore you with. To summarize; It’s safe and legal.😉 - Woodglue: I used a lot of glue on the 3 individual pieces, so they would be strong. I did not glue those 3 pieces together though, I only used screws. As they are each connected to a different part of the building (ground, wall and 1st floor) that can move in different directions. Adding glue would prevent the natural movement that occurs and would over time loosen and start to creek. If you have any more tips or questions, let me know! I’m eager to learn more 😊
oh I see i am noth the only one to comment about the recess... so, if you want, you can do this: take one out at a time and put a thread coupler in then put another short length of grade 8 rod, or whatever steel grade you had. put a 2" square plate of steel with a big enough hole to accomodate the coupler if its protruding, then bolt it back in with a washer and lock washer. im a nerd so i would probaly put thread lock too. i think the only problem with doing this is making sure you have the same or higher grade of steel on the new parts as well as making sure the coupler doesnt bottom out against the 1/4" plate you used as a big washer. anyway not sure thats necesarry but if it ever gets loose or cracks that easier that rebuilding the whole thing and trying to install bigger anchors etc.
Nah only thing is you're making the tolerances a little too tight for Glue and fasteners(should slide in snug without glue and you hammer it in with glue applied) but other than that Maybe have more Bolts fastening the Stairway to the wall. The second landing can have a little self on the closed/backside side to act as an additional Brace if need be.
I did some rough calculations using eyeball estimations for the grade and diameter of your anchor bolts and other fasteners and am prepared to conclude that you could regularly march elephants in and out of your second floor without concern for many many years.
I have only two suggestions for you: it's always advisable when building stairs to make one single step a tiny bit higher to trip up enemy swordsmen who may be after your upstairs treasures. Also if you and your guilde are right handed, always build spiral stairs with a clockwise rise to keep the advantage on your side for swinging a sword or dagger. All the best for your adventures, sire.
So, a critique from a professional joiner. Your opening should have a full length doubled joist along the long edge (Trimmer joist), and then a doubled joist across the short end (Trimming joist) to carry the ends of the joists that are cut short (Trimmed joists) for the opening. 45% is steep for a staircase. The ratio is usually 8 up to 9 along. Steeper than that will feel strange. The grooves for treads are usually a little wider than the tread at the back to allow room for a wedge which can be driven in to tighten up on the tread in case the timber shrinks (Which it probably will in the summer). All this information is available online if you care to look for it. The amount that you countersunk for the anchor bolts has reduced the thickness of the timber considerably where the bolt attaches. It's kind of irrelevant how strong the bolt is if the timber that it is holding is so thin that is has much reduced strength. I hope your stairs last as they are, but there are many reasons to use a professional for potentially dangerous items like stairs. Joinery is rarely as simple as people think.
I’ve been a carpenter and builder for over 40 years. I don’t know exactly how many staircases I’ve framed and trimmed but it’s a bunch! I often wonder how differently I might do something if I’d had the luxury and convenience of CAD and the availability of specialized structural screws. I guess it would look a lot like this! Good job, young man! Keep up the good work and keep striving to do the things that challenge you and the the things you enjoy!
The fact that you don't know much about building stairs, but you went ahead and did it yourself successfully, is a fine statement for a hard working, young fella like you :) Great job, fist bumps from Canada :)
Retired now, but I have built many staircases during my decades of work. There are many tiny nuances that the books/internet might not mention yet make a massive difference when the customer and their family use them. I wish you had consulted somebody who has done them before. You will figure out what they are yourself as you use them. Thanks for sharing. Great shop!
Please tell us what are the points? Its been 1 year since u wrote this....i hope you are still alive to share the Knowledge. I m no carpenter or know nothing about building stuff. But still i am trying to build a Cantilever staircase and it is extremely challenging. Need some guidance.
This was your first time ever building a staircase?? Congratulations brother! from a carpenters perspective, I think you did a great job! I think i understand the way you thought process worked to come up with this design, and i can tell just by looking how much thought you put into it. If i was you, and since this is a custom design for your needs and available space, i woulnt follow the prints too close in terms of measurements just to make the instalation process a bit easier on myself. adjusting as needed to the surrounding area. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work!!
Structural engineer here. Gotta warn ya bro that ledger to the concrete wall with no support on the other side is in what's called cross-grain bending. Wood has zero strength in cross grain bending, it's strictly not allowed. What would have worked is doing a tension tie type anchor at the top of the landing framing member that are perpendicular to the wall. This would take the tension out the eliminate the cross grain bending. If you built this extremely tight and redundant it will probably compensate and shouldn't get overloaded with just one lightweight person. But we usually try to support things correctly. I would use like a Titen HD with a DTT2Z or something similar. Cheers mate.
Can you elaborate. When you say that "ledger to the concrete wall" are you talking about the middle riser, the lower landing, the upper landing, etc? Which piece of wood is the cross-grain bending likely to occur on?
Maybe he's referring to the upper landing... You have a back plate screwed to the concrete which is part of a square, then you have a riser coming off of the end if that square, attached to the landing on the top floor. I'm wondering if he's suggesting that the riser go straight from the top floor into the back plate and then construct the steps within that frame. Would be good if he gave a description as I'm curious.
@@patrickjay6434 Yup it's the second landing, both landings really. It's all just statics. Every engineer learns it in their second year. Imagine a person standing on the upper landing near the edge that goes up the stairs. What is resisting the static force applied. The staircase going up is attached with some screws it looks like, but this would typically be modeled as a hinge - little to no resistance. Maybe if they used several large lag bolts or straps of some kind we could say this creates a continuous beam / joist type member that carries the force. Joists are typically 16" o.c. for a good reason though. The stairs down to the right may provide some resistance to the static force applied, however there is a X and Y component as the stair there is at an angle so those forces don't resolve cleanly, it would be a sort of torsion and shear through the platform that get resolved at the wall somehow. Last we come to the ledger at the wall. 3 bolts in the middle a 2x framing member. Assuming this is resisting the majority of the forces what you have is called a concentrated moment at the wall. This concentrated moment applies bending across the grain of the ledger, this is the cross grain bending that breaks boards in half. There is a reason why floating staircases like this are always built out of steel, tube steel has incredible torsion and bending strength and is isotropic - has the same strength no matter how the load is applied.
@@cheezyblasters9262 Understood at least 60% of that... :-) Could it be fixed without taking the whole thing down? I suppose it should be fine if there's not much weight going on it.. But eventually it might start to move a bit. Maybe he could wait for it to start moving and then stick a post underneath it for stability!
@@patrickjay6434 Yup you got it. The standard for staircases is to have the landing joists supported by posts / ledgers at both ends. This provides stable platforms for the stair stringers to span in between. The upper landing would have two posts, the lower landing would have one because its in a corner. For floating stairs like this we'd use tube steel. Wood could be made to do it as well with some well detailed connections. For instance putting a tension strap on the bottom of the stair stringers to the bottom of the landing joists at the top run / landing would take the tension load there making that act like a continuous joist / stringer member. That would create a single member that spans from the ledger at the wall to a ledger / floor joist at the floor framing above. That would be the cleanest way to fix this ruclips.net/channel/UCpXBvzKRaw_zRj0d6sFJ3kwcommunity?lb=Ugkxa5O4OEgjiRAOy86lKeedEETuhjoyQlvF
I will be replicating this exact build! Im building a tiny home and have been taking my time to ensure i do things right, im self teaching essentially every aspect and have drawn up stairs like this but havent been able to figure out how to switch the rafter for floating aspect , this is a beautiful stair and the exact shape ive drawn up!! Looks amazing ❤ thank you for the sick content!
Excellent job.. I have built lots of stairs, and even worked in a stair shop, but never designed my own. I have an Old house which needs a new stair and this has given me the confidence to challenge myself and build it myself, someday soon hopefully!
Better to now countersink the bolts into the side of the boards. Easy to over tighten and crush the thin bit of wood that you left. Vibration from the people going down the stairs will slowly crush the thin wood.
I enjoyed your whole shop build. One more project suggestion is to reverse hinge side of the door so it opens to the wall. Would make entry and exit easier. Especially if you come in and go directly toward the stairs or exit that way, the door won’t open into your way
Self supporting staircases were big when I was working construction. I dont know if I would call that floating since it is braced with 45's on the 90's from the structural support. Still a cool design though. Kudos!
A few Questions if I may: 1. Did you determine what took place to cause your final stringer dimension to be shorter than the construction drawing? 2. When you trimmed off about 1.5" to get your stringer to fit, how was your rise and run design affected? 3. When you attached the stringer to the wall, were the cuts for the tread still level? Lastly, I really liked the look of those construction drawings. They had excellent graphic clarity and punch. I enjoyed your video. Keep it up.😀
The worst set of stairs I ever seen. I've been a superintendent, project manager for over 35 yrs. Just in case anyone wants to know my qualifications. Someone going to get killed. At least put posts under the top platform.
Nice build. I have built a few custom stairs and I think this is a very nice job. Only one thing I would have changed, or added, would be a 45 degree diagonal brace under that top platform, transferring the side load of that left runner of the top stair to the wall on the right of (from a climbing stair perspective).
He should probably leave that strut out because he wants the staircase to look daring and gravity defying. It looks very solid, doesn't sound or look like it's vibrating, is wide enough and easy enough to climb. He wasn't worrying that old rule about tread width and riser height should add up 17 inches total. I never thought you could just pick an angle - 45 deg. - for convenience). You can usually do what you like with your house as long as you own it outright free and clear. You still have to meet town building codes and he may not He will probably have to provide a railing. . BTW - I know an old guy like me around here that used to have a dog who could climb up a ladder. She couldn't climb down and when she demanded I carry her down her attitude toward me changed considerably. She climbed on my shoulder. She figured how to do that. I couldn't - and we both got down safely. She was such a smart little dog and was interested in everything going on.
I've used those anchors before, they really are very strong, you could probably put a truck on 3 of them. the only thing i didnt like was how you recessed the anchor bolts. theres no real need and as soon as you get some moisture on the wall it looked like you just deleted half the meat, purely for aesthetics. i would have just torqued them to spec and cut of the excess with a grinder... anyway, nice stairs and awesome video!
also, i saw how you forgot to add the board thickness on a couple dimentions. thats normal, done it a hundred times lol it almost always ends up too long though, atleast for me anyway lol.
you are fortunate. in the UK the stair depth and height is regulated, and the number or steps before you are required to have a landing, and the railings/arm-rests. Nice steps. one comment (that I didn;t see already) it is easier to sand the wood before assembly and varnishing. Great build.
Nice work and excellent design. Stair builders leave the slot loose and angled so they can drive glues wedges. It makes construction faster and easier and stronger.
I thank the RUclips algorithm for suggesting me your channel: just watched your few shop renovation videos and loved every bit of them. Here's a new sub for you, from Paris. Now I'm gonna binge watch all your previous videos ! 😅 Tot ziens ! 😊
Genius. Well done. One thing I don't get is why you recessed the bolts that go into the masonry. By doing so you halved the amount of wood that the bolt head has to bear on. I mean, it looks nicer but I think it's weaker than if you had not recessed them. What was your thought there? Just curious....not being critical. Thanks.
That's fair, it was not necessary to do so. I didn't think that part through to be honest 😅. Still had no issues with the strenght (built it about a year ago), but could always be better with tips like this. Thanks!
cant stop smiling while watching this. its so satisfying. IDK why youtube lately keeps showing me these videos of people with $20,000 mills and they cant even follow a plan they have to make one piece at a time and use it to mark the next piece, it drives me crazy. this video is completely opposite, using a CAD to generate your own prints and then using NORMAL tools and building the pieces exactly to spec based on the plans! how refreshing, thank you! :D
No questions and remarks just compliments. This is of course not an easy task but you made it look easy. I like the concept of start and end and was curious how you wanted to do that all by yourself. I thing the tricky part is to make the middle part go 45 degrees. Result: if I ever fear woodwork I'll look at this, seems easier in the end than thought.
Dude, I like your shirt you were wearing at the start. Probably not what you want people to appreciate from your videos, but if you would give a link, it'll be appreciated lol
Hi im a carpenter and letting you know that you need railings on the outside of your stairs its code in Canada.just a tip,and your stairs look awesome.
Amazing video. We would like to show this video on our channel with your permission. We will add your link and your name will also be mentioned in the video. Let us know what you think
@@SpareTimeShop I had the same question, but luckily it turned out great for you. How big is the opening on the second floor? We recently bought a house with a big barn and I might be doing something similar! Great video, you gained a new subscriber.
So since that center stringer came up shorter than expected (I suck at CAD design AND any sort of advance planning, so unexpected results notwithstanding, good on ya. My stuff never comes out right the first time), did that alter the spacing for your steps? Do the steps in the middle section have a different spacing than the two smaller sections because of the surprise dimension change, or did you just split the difference and it's so small you wouldn't really notice?
this is EXACTLY what I was wondering ! I suppose the original plan had equal spacing between ALL of the steps, so it can not be other than the middle piece steps are now slightly shorter.
I like you style of story telling. Looking forward to seeing more on your shop set up. Your shop has great natual light and I suspect will be great for woodworking. Very much interested in what you are doing.
Great video and thanks for sharing. Is it possible for you to share your plans. i have to build three staircases and never attempted before. I like the simplicity of your design.
The variance between original plans and the actual length of the centre stringers was caused by the gap between the bottom set and the wall beside them. Notice that your plans for the bottom stringers has no offset for the wall. Only flush planks. The extra ~2” distance from the wall appears to match what you cut off the centre stringers. Pretty typical when adding perfectly square construction to a not so square old building 😉👊🏻
Nicely done, the construction is solid. My only comment is your 45 angle for the stairs is too steep. You will notice as you go up the stairs your toe is under the step above, which can be a trip hazard. Coming down so the back of your leg clears the tread above 1/3 of your foot is hanging off the tread. You could easy slip or miss a step coming down this way. Stairs are typically done with a 9-10 inch run and 7 inch rise (sorry don’t know this in metric) to prevent these issues and is most building codes. Just be careful and you will be fine, nice job.
Based on how much you were off for the middle piece it almost looks like your plans may not have accounted for the top-board thickness, it looks like you were off by roughly that amount anyway (so you probably could've used those same pieces without additional cutting if you removed the board, made cutouts in it, and then reinstalled it with the middle-piece in place), or at least that's what it looks like. Well, it worked out in the end anyway. As for the countersunk anchor bolts, it's probably strong enough for its intended purpose but it would have been better to not countersink them. For even greater strength it may be advisable to put some steel plate between the wood and the bolt head as well, this ensures that the bolt won't eat its way through the wood via compressive forces. This likely qualifies as overengineering but still, useful tricks to keep in mind for future stair-builds, it mostly depends on traffic and weight.
Nice build. I'm normally not a fan of music during build videos, but your selection is excellent. Also: hello, fellow inhabitant of Belgium! (I'd say "hello, fellow Belgian, but despite being born here and living here all my life I'm still Spanish on paper, so yeah...)
Looks very nice and you're talented, but I'm not sure about recessing the anchor bolts so much in that top landing. 11:13 ... They look nice and flush, but now you have less material holding them in place. Just worried the wood will fail. You could always put in a couple more. Especially since the stress will be higher on it since the stairs are resting on it and torquing that side down.
@@Frank_inSA theoretically there is force on them, since there is no post to support the ‘floating’ parts of the landing, there will be a slight hinging going on under use. After a lot of use, especially running, jumping down on those landings, but people rushing or kids or carrying a lot of weight, there will be a certain amount of pulling/crushing happening on those anchors. And then as they loosen over time and he may tighten them up, the effective thickness will only continue to get smaller... Which is fine for him to deal with and fix-but it’s not fine as instruction for how to do this kind of work. It’s easy to predict how this could become even more dangerous in another situation. Mind you the whole design of this is dodgy, and any two hundred pounder that blasts down those stair in some kind of emergency are wild excitement, are likely to push them beyond their limit... especially further on down the road after much regular use.
Wow... looks cool. And so many safety hazards! No handrail? No middle stringer means over time even 2x12 material will sag and pull out of those little slots. No risers, so (with the handrail) hopefully you never let a kid wander around there. Hope no one gets hurt too badly.
![Handcrafted 14-step Staircase. Always Struggle With the First and 13th Steps [Season4 - Part9]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SLh8N9YGUwY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Handcrafted 14-step Staircase. Always Struggle With the First and 13th Steps [Season4 – Part9]](/img/tr.png)
Hi everyone, thank you for your many fair questions and remarks about this staircase in the comments.
I’ll try to answer them all but thought I would summarize the most interesting ones here:
- Strength:
I built this staircase about a year ago and used it to hall big lumber and furniture upstairs,
I’ve had no issue with it what so ever. Although it could have been even stronger if I didn’t recess the anker bolts in the sides.
(In hindsight, don't know why I did that) but again, its plenty strong.
- Railing:
I’m planning to install a railing on the wall. I want to keep the middle open so I can easily move big pieces upstairs.
- Safety:
here in Belgium (probably different from the US) only new builds and classified renovations need to be approved by an inspector.
This isn’t the case here but that’s a legal issue I won’t bore you with. To summarize; It’s safe and legal.😉
- Woodglue:
I used a lot of glue on the 3 individual pieces, so they would be strong. I did not glue those 3 pieces together though, I only used screws.
As they are each connected to a different part of the building (ground, wall and 1st floor) that can move in different directions.
Adding glue would prevent the natural movement that occurs and would over time loosen and start to creek.
If you have any more tips or questions, let me know! I’m eager to learn more 😊
oh I see i am noth the only one to comment about the recess... so, if you want, you can do this: take one out at a time and put a thread coupler in then put another short length of grade 8 rod, or whatever steel grade you had. put a 2" square plate of steel with a big enough hole to accomodate the coupler if its protruding, then bolt it back in with a washer and lock washer. im a nerd so i would probaly put thread lock too. i think the only problem with doing this is making sure you have the same or higher grade of steel on the new parts as well as making sure the coupler doesnt bottom out against the 1/4" plate you used as a big washer. anyway not sure thats necesarry but if it ever gets loose or cracks that easier that rebuilding the whole thing and trying to install bigger anchors etc.
Nah only thing is you're making the tolerances a little too tight for Glue and fasteners(should slide in snug without glue and you hammer it in with glue applied) but other than that Maybe have more Bolts fastening the Stairway to the wall. The second landing can have a little self on the closed/backside side to act as an additional Brace if need be.
I did some rough calculations using eyeball estimations for the grade and diameter of your anchor bolts and other fasteners and am prepared to conclude that you could regularly march elephants in and out of your second floor without concern for many many years.
Question: Why is there a steel platform that the bottom section is resting on?
as much fun as this looks, I'd never trust a wooden staircase in case of a fire.
I have only two suggestions for you: it's always advisable when building stairs to make one single step a tiny bit higher to trip up enemy swordsmen who may be after your upstairs treasures. Also if you and your guilde are right handed, always build spiral stairs with a clockwise rise to keep the advantage on your side for swinging a sword or dagger. All the best for your adventures, sire.
amazing lol
great work!
excellent advise Samuel :)
This is great advice.
9mm, glazier slugs.
So, a critique from a professional joiner.
Your opening should have a full length doubled joist along the long edge (Trimmer joist), and then a doubled joist across the short end (Trimming joist) to carry the ends of the joists that are cut short (Trimmed joists) for the opening. 45% is steep for a staircase. The ratio is usually 8 up to 9 along. Steeper than that will feel strange. The grooves for treads are usually a little wider than the tread at the back to allow room for a wedge which can be driven in to tighten up on the tread in case the timber shrinks (Which it probably will in the summer). All this information is available online if you care to look for it.
The amount that you countersunk for the anchor bolts has reduced the thickness of the timber considerably where the bolt attaches. It's kind of irrelevant how strong the bolt is if the timber that it is holding is so thin that is has much reduced strength.
I hope your stairs last as they are, but there are many reasons to use a professional for potentially dangerous items like stairs. Joinery is rarely as simple as people think.
I’ve been a carpenter and builder for over 40 years. I don’t know exactly how many staircases I’ve framed and trimmed but it’s a bunch! I often wonder how differently I might do something if I’d had the luxury and convenience of CAD and the availability of specialized structural screws. I guess it would look a lot like this! Good job, young man! Keep up the good work and keep striving to do the things that challenge you and the the things you enjoy!
wow that is a nice commend from a 40 years experienced guy.
also i like the speed of the movie. no boring parts. and enough time to see how to do it.
The fact that you don't know much about building stairs, but you went ahead and did it yourself successfully, is a fine statement for a hard working, young fella like you :) Great job, fist bumps from Canada :)
Retired now, but I have built many staircases during my decades of work. There are many tiny nuances that the books/internet might not mention yet make a massive difference when the customer and their family use them. I wish you had consulted somebody who has done them before. You will figure out what they are yourself as you use them. Thanks for sharing. Great shop!
Please tell us what are the points? Its been 1 year since u wrote this....i hope you are still alive to share the Knowledge. I m no carpenter or know nothing about building stuff. But still i am trying to build a Cantilever staircase and it is extremely challenging. Need some guidance.
WOW the inspector was very thorough! It even said, good job. Can’t beat it when the inspector give you a compliment on your work.
This was your first time ever building a staircase?? Congratulations brother! from a carpenters perspective, I think you did a great job! I think i understand the way you thought process worked to come up with this design, and i can tell just by looking how much thought you put into it.
If i was you, and since this is a custom design for your needs and available space, i woulnt follow the prints too close in terms of measurements just to make the instalation process a bit easier on myself.
adjusting as needed to the surrounding area.
Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work!!
I've learned so much and the music was also very pleasant. Thank you for sharing!
Structural engineer here. Gotta warn ya bro that ledger to the concrete wall with no support on the other side is in what's called cross-grain bending. Wood has zero strength in cross grain bending, it's strictly not allowed. What would have worked is doing a tension tie type anchor at the top of the landing framing member that are perpendicular to the wall. This would take the tension out the eliminate the cross grain bending. If you built this extremely tight and redundant it will probably compensate and shouldn't get overloaded with just one lightweight person. But we usually try to support things correctly. I would use like a Titen HD with a DTT2Z or something similar. Cheers mate.
Can you elaborate. When you say that "ledger to the concrete wall" are you talking about the middle riser, the lower landing, the upper landing, etc? Which piece of wood is the cross-grain bending likely to occur on?
Maybe he's referring to the upper landing... You have a back plate screwed to the concrete which is part of a square, then you have a riser coming off of the end if that square, attached to the landing on the top floor. I'm wondering if he's suggesting that the riser go straight from the top floor into the back plate and then construct the steps within that frame. Would be good if he gave a description as I'm curious.
@@patrickjay6434 Yup it's the second landing, both landings really. It's all just statics. Every engineer learns it in their second year. Imagine a person standing on the upper landing near the edge that goes up the stairs. What is resisting the static force applied. The staircase going up is attached with some screws it looks like, but this would typically be modeled as a hinge - little to no resistance. Maybe if they used several large lag bolts or straps of some kind we could say this creates a continuous beam / joist type member that carries the force. Joists are typically 16" o.c. for a good reason though. The stairs down to the right may provide some resistance to the static force applied, however there is a X and Y component as the stair there is at an angle so those forces don't resolve cleanly, it would be a sort of torsion and shear through the platform that get resolved at the wall somehow. Last we come to the ledger at the wall. 3 bolts in the middle a 2x framing member. Assuming this is resisting the majority of the forces what you have is called a concentrated moment at the wall. This concentrated moment applies bending across the grain of the ledger, this is the cross grain bending that breaks boards in half. There is a reason why floating staircases like this are always built out of steel, tube steel has incredible torsion and bending strength and is isotropic - has the same strength no matter how the load is applied.
@@cheezyblasters9262 Understood at least 60% of that... :-)
Could it be fixed without taking the whole thing down? I suppose it should be fine if there's not much weight going on it.. But eventually it might start to move a bit. Maybe he could wait for it to start moving and then stick a post underneath it for stability!
@@patrickjay6434 Yup you got it. The standard for staircases is to have the landing joists supported by posts / ledgers at both ends. This provides stable platforms for the stair stringers to span in between. The upper landing would have two posts, the lower landing would have one because its in a corner. For floating stairs like this we'd use tube steel. Wood could be made to do it as well with some well detailed connections. For instance putting a tension strap on the bottom of the stair stringers to the bottom of the landing joists at the top run / landing would take the tension load there making that act like a continuous joist / stringer member. That would create a single member that spans from the ledger at the wall to a ledger / floor joist at the floor framing above. That would be the cleanest way to fix this ruclips.net/channel/UCpXBvzKRaw_zRj0d6sFJ3kwcommunity?lb=Ugkxa5O4OEgjiRAOy86lKeedEETuhjoyQlvF
Congratulations, and thank you for sharing. Good job.
I will be replicating this exact build! Im building a tiny home and have been taking my time to ensure i do things right, im self teaching essentially every aspect and have drawn up stairs like this but havent been able to figure out how to switch the rafter for floating aspect , this is a beautiful stair and the exact shape ive drawn up!! Looks amazing ❤ thank you for the sick content!
Very nice safety inspector. Concise notes, delivered without drama.
"Any notes Mr. Inspector?" "Nah!" Good job! It looks strong and it looks perfect!
purrfect
Excellent job.. I have built lots of stairs, and even worked in a stair shop, but never designed my own. I have an Old house which needs a new stair and this has given me the confidence to challenge myself and build it myself, someday soon hopefully!
Go for it! You clearly have more experience than me, so why not? 😉
Why don't you do it to code and put a guard rail / hand rail on.
Сапожник без сапог😂
60 years ago, my grandfather taught me how to do it, without a computer, milling machines and battery tools. The quality was 100%
Hey, I like the way you work. Especially that you make things simple with the jigs!
the simpler the better :)
I’m a Draftswoman/ Designer, and I love your videos; and the colors of the shop and especially those storage cabinets , Great job
Better to now countersink the bolts into the side of the boards. Easy to over tighten and crush the thin bit of wood that you left. Vibration from the people going down the stairs will slowly crush the thin wood.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing but… he will probably get away with it since most of the load is in sheer.
This is where washers would be the solve all
I enjoyed your whole shop build. One more project suggestion is to reverse hinge side of the door so it opens to the wall. Would make entry and exit easier. Especially if you come in and go directly toward the stairs or exit that way, the door won’t open into your way
I've been remodeling most of my almost 40 years... plans rarely go to plan. lol..
That's an awesome job!
¡¡¡¡¡GENIAAAAALLLLL !!!!!!...¡¡¡¡¡FELICITACIONES !!!!!..
CÓRDOBA ARGENTINA.
To Whom:
In times of stairs and nicely done it’s beautiful clean.
Work 👊
Wow ! I like the work design,sketches✏...and you care for the sharpness 🔨 and and... Perfection finally it's BEAUTIFUL !
Self supporting staircases were big when I was working construction. I dont know if I would call that floating since it is braced with 45's on the 90's from the structural support. Still a cool design though. Kudos!
I know the title is a little deceiving, but it looks floating ;)
Meticulous work. Love the build and look.
Very happy to see you had all that work certified by the saftey inspector. He's a good looking inspector too!
Great carpentry and excellent choice in music.
A very handsome, thorough, & "no fuss" inspector.
A few Questions if I may:
1. Did you determine what took place to cause your final stringer dimension to be shorter than the construction drawing?
2. When you trimmed off about 1.5" to get your stringer to fit, how was your rise and run design affected?
3. When you attached the stringer to the wall, were the cuts for the tread still level?
Lastly, I really liked the look of those construction drawings. They had excellent graphic clarity and punch.
I enjoyed your video. Keep it up.😀
The staircase ended up reall sturdy and great design!
The worst set of stairs I ever seen. I've been a superintendent, project manager for over 35 yrs. Just in case anyone wants to know my qualifications. Someone going to get killed. At least put posts under the top platform.
@@13vexarts Exactly what are you complaining about?
Nice build. I have built a few custom stairs and I think this is a very nice job. Only one thing I would have changed, or added, would be a 45 degree diagonal brace under that top platform, transferring the side load of that left runner of the top stair to the wall on the right of (from a climbing stair perspective).
He should probably leave that strut out because he wants the staircase to look daring and gravity defying. It looks very solid, doesn't sound or look like it's vibrating, is wide enough and easy enough to climb. He wasn't worrying that old rule about tread width and riser height should add up 17 inches total. I never thought you could just pick an angle - 45 deg. - for convenience).
You can usually do what you like with your house as long as you own it outright free and clear. You still have to meet town building codes and he may not He will probably have to provide a railing. .
BTW - I know an old guy like me around here that used to have a dog who could climb up a ladder. She couldn't climb down and when she demanded I carry her down her attitude toward me changed considerably. She climbed on my shoulder. She figured how to do that. I couldn't - and we both got down safely. She was such a smart little dog and was interested in everything going on.
NICE JOB, YOU TOOK YOUR TIME AND IT PAID OFF
I've used those anchors before, they really are very strong, you could probably put a truck on 3 of them. the only thing i didnt like was how you recessed the anchor bolts. theres no real need and as soon as you get some moisture on the wall it looked like you just deleted half the meat, purely for aesthetics. i would have just torqued them to spec and cut of the excess with a grinder... anyway, nice stairs and awesome video!
also, i saw how you forgot to add the board thickness on a couple dimentions. thats normal, done it a hundred times lol it almost always ends up too long though, atleast for me anyway lol.
you are fortunate. in the UK the stair depth and height is regulated, and the number or steps before you are required to have a landing, and the railings/arm-rests. Nice steps. one comment (that I didn;t see already) it is easier to sand the wood before assembly and varnishing. Great build.
BRAVO Man !!! So young and already so smart & clever !
Nice work and excellent design. Stair builders leave the slot loose and angled so they can drive glues wedges. It makes construction faster and easier and stronger.
I thank the RUclips algorithm for suggesting me your channel: just watched your few shop renovation videos and loved every bit of them. Here's a new sub for you, from Paris. Now I'm gonna binge watch all your previous videos ! 😅 Tot ziens ! 😊
Inspector said: You do very fine Work! Well Done Done!
Genius. Well done. One thing I don't get is why you recessed the bolts that go into the masonry. By doing so you halved the amount of wood that the bolt head has to bear on. I mean, it looks nicer but I think it's weaker than if you had not recessed them. What was your thought there? Just curious....not being critical. Thanks.
That's fair, it was not necessary to do so. I didn't think that part through to be honest 😅. Still had no issues with the strenght (built it about a year ago), but could always be better with tips like this. Thanks!
cant stop smiling while watching this. its so satisfying. IDK why youtube lately keeps showing me these videos of people with $20,000 mills and they cant even follow a plan they have to make one piece at a time and use it to mark the next piece, it drives me crazy.
this video is completely opposite, using a CAD to generate your own prints and then using NORMAL tools and building the pieces exactly to spec based on the plans!
how refreshing, thank you! :D
No questions and remarks just compliments. This is of course not an easy task but you made it look easy. I like the concept of start and end and was curious how you wanted to do that all by yourself. I thing the tricky part is to make the middle part go 45 degrees. Result: if I ever fear woodwork I'll look at this, seems easier in the end than thought.
Dude, I like your shirt you were wearing at the start. Probably not what you want people to appreciate from your videos, but if you would give a link, it'll be appreciated lol
Hi im a carpenter and letting you know that you need railings on the outside of your stairs its code in Canada.just a tip,and your stairs look awesome.
He's in Belgium, and in the description he explains that this is up to code for his area.
Looks like a professional job. 👍
This was amazing! Just wow!! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
You did a fine job sir. Looks great
you gave me a new idea how to build a nice stair to my second floor bungalow, thanks!
Very nice woodworking, and good video without all the nonsense in some channel that try to be comedic. Thank you.
Amazing video. We would like to show this video on our channel with your permission. We will add your link and your name will also be mentioned in the video. Let us know what you think
Where did you find that wood? Ive never seen 2x12" lumber that clean and knot free before.
Excelent work... hugs from Argentina
Since the last section wasn't exactly as you had planned, how much deviation did that cause in the steps rise dimension?
it was about 5cm (
I was wondering the same thing. I'm glad it didn't turn out to be a big deal (apparently).
@@SpareTimeShop I had the same question, but luckily it turned out great for you.
How big is the opening on the second floor?
We recently bought a house with a big barn and I might be doing something similar!
Great video, you gained a new subscriber.
Very nice!! Inspector-approved!
great videos I've watched the whole series back to back looking forward to the next one
Thank you for these video’s. You are very methodical, it is good to watch. Good job on the staircase👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
That came out badass, bro.
Wow, that was a beautiful work of art. Thanks for the video
Nicely done. I wish I had the space to renovate a space into a workshop like this.
Really nice job
very nice. any chance of posting those plans/. I have a similar project connecting existing stairs to access living room balcony.
Your Inspector needs a Shelf or Run along the wall to match the Staircase. Nice Work!
He would like that, I'm sure 😉
Wow you did a great job, makes me want to build some stairs too, except I don’t have an upstairs. 😅 You made it look very easy, this gives me hope.
So since that center stringer came up shorter than expected (I suck at CAD design AND any sort of advance planning, so unexpected results notwithstanding, good on ya. My stuff never comes out right the first time), did that alter the spacing for your steps? Do the steps in the middle section have a different spacing than the two smaller sections because of the surprise dimension change, or did you just split the difference and it's so small you wouldn't really notice?
this is EXACTLY what I was wondering ! I suppose the original plan had equal spacing between ALL of the steps, so it can not be other than the middle piece steps are now slightly shorter.
You did such a beautiful job.
Great video, very informative. My favorite part, however, was your conversation with the inspector at the end..
Hello, congratulations from Colombia. Could you share the plans of your project
I like you style of story telling. Looking forward to seeing more on your shop set up. Your shop has great natual light and I suspect will be great for woodworking. Very much interested in what you are doing.
Great video and thanks for sharing. Is it possible for you to share your plans. i have to build three staircases and never attempted before. I like the simplicity of your design.
The variance between original plans and the actual length of the centre stringers was caused by the gap between the bottom set and the wall beside them. Notice that your plans for the bottom stringers has no offset for the wall. Only flush planks. The extra ~2” distance from the wall appears to match what you cut off the centre stringers. Pretty typical when adding perfectly square construction to a not so square old building 😉👊🏻
This looks great! My company does this with steel, and we've turned out steel stairs less strong than this.
I would love to have the plans for this staircase. Would you share or sell them?
Amazing. When someone just does it right. Love to know how it is holding up in 12 months.
Excellent! I wish I have the tools like what you have.
This is exactly what I needed!! Perfect for my project
That was pretty awesome!!
I love the "inspeCATr" at the end
I love this style of stairs. How much would you charge to build these and install?
Strong and efficient. Very nice!
God bless ALL of us!
WWG1WGA
The expander anchors you used. Did you check that they are made for brick wall? Usually they are not.
My thoughts exactly.
Thank you so much for your ideas very nice.
Nice Job and the Direction only depends on the Available Space. And you do have your Trusty Security Cat, to keep the Treasure Safe, LOL.
nice! those inspectors are tough!! : )
Nicely done, the construction is solid. My only comment is your 45 angle for the stairs is too steep. You will notice as you go up the stairs your toe is under the step above, which can be a trip hazard. Coming down so the back of your leg clears the tread above 1/3 of your foot is hanging off the tread. You could easy slip or miss a step coming down this way. Stairs are typically done with a 9-10 inch run and 7 inch rise (sorry don’t know this in metric) to prevent these issues and is most building codes. Just be careful and you will be fine, nice job.
Cool diy..... I suggest you change the wall color to make the stairway stand out...
Love your listening to Derek trucks!!!
Awesome work!
Looks absolutely awesome although I would still be reluctant to step on it
That ice and fire song is amazing 😊
Based on how much you were off for the middle piece it almost looks like your plans may not have accounted for the top-board thickness, it looks like you were off by roughly that amount anyway (so you probably could've used those same pieces without additional cutting if you removed the board, made cutouts in it, and then reinstalled it with the middle-piece in place), or at least that's what it looks like.
Well, it worked out in the end anyway.
As for the countersunk anchor bolts, it's probably strong enough for its intended purpose but it would have been better to not countersink them. For even greater strength it may be advisable to put some steel plate between the wood and the bolt head as well, this ensures that the bolt won't eat its way through the wood via compressive forces. This likely qualifies as overengineering but still, useful tricks to keep in mind for future stair-builds, it mostly depends on traffic and weight.
Nice build. I'm normally not a fan of music during build videos, but your selection is excellent. Also: hello, fellow inhabitant of Belgium! (I'd say "hello, fellow Belgian, but despite being born here and living here all my life I'm still Spanish on paper, so yeah...)
omg, love the tiny meow at the end 👍👍
Looks very nice and you're talented, but I'm not sure about recessing the anchor bolts so much in that top landing. 11:13 ... They look nice and flush, but now you have less material holding them in place. Just worried the wood will fail. You could always put in a couple more. Especially since the stress will be higher on it since the stairs are resting on it and torquing that side down.
GREAT BUILD .... GREAT JOB ! ~ Congrats !
I like the elegant simplicity and inherent strength your design has. It takes very little space. I sub'd, look forward to more!
yeah the inherent strength of the anchor bolts recessed so far that there is like 1/2 inch of wood left for the washer to clamp on is very "elegant"
@@2brazy4ubitch I actually wondered about that, myself... Guess we'll see.
@@crustycurmudgeon2182 there is no real force going in this direction, it will just be fine
@@Frank_inSA I don't recall saying it wouldn't be fine?
@@Frank_inSA theoretically there is force on them, since there is no post to support the ‘floating’ parts of the landing, there will be a slight hinging going on under use. After a lot of use, especially running, jumping down on those landings, but people rushing or kids or carrying a lot of weight, there will be a certain amount of pulling/crushing happening on those anchors. And then as they loosen over time and he may tighten them up, the effective thickness will only continue to get smaller... Which is fine for him to deal with and fix-but it’s not fine as instruction for how to do this kind of work. It’s easy to predict how this could become even more dangerous in another situation. Mind you the whole design of this is dodgy, and any two hundred pounder that blasts down those stair in some kind of emergency are wild excitement, are likely to push them beyond their limit... especially further on down the road after much regular use.
Great tutorial video.
Thank you
Nice design!
Hi! Loved your video. Can you please tell me what software you used for drawing?
The Cat is Beautiful. 😁
The new stairs are nice.😄
Wow... looks cool. And so many safety hazards! No handrail? No middle stringer means over time even 2x12 material will sag and pull out of those little slots. No risers, so (with the handrail) hopefully you never let a kid wander around there. Hope no one gets hurt too badly.