This video was SO HELPFUL to me! Your use of graphics and no nonsense discussion make it so clear. I am rebuilding our stairs this week. I have done a lot of framing, but never stairs. Now and I feel much better prepared. Thank you.
My deck stringers needed to come down onto a slightly sloping downward concrete sidewalk. This method is the only way to cut the bottom of the stringer so that it conforms to that slight slope and, at the same time, keeps all the stairs at a 180-degree angle. Once I had that, following all the steps presented here worked perfectly!! Thank you so much for this approach.
It's not the only way. Not many things in building have just one way to do it. Off the top of my head you could measure to a lasered line where your stringers end at the concrete. Find the difference in height of the concrete relative to your centre line (if this is where you took your initial overall rise from) at the lowest point of where your stringers will end. Let's say that the difference is extreme, say 50mm. Now, prop in their position, all stringers 50mm higher than where they will finally rest and cut a 50mm thick block. Using that block and a pencil, scribe the bottom riser of all stringers around the entirety of it's perimeter. Cut and place all the stringers at their true heights. This way ensures you have a near perfect replication of the contours of the concrete in both directions. This, essentially, is the offset method, which a lot of finish carpenters and cabinet installers use.
I first played out with a level and tape when I first was building decks It allowed me to lay the stringers on the lawn where I wanted to land often on a downward sloped lawn where rise and run took a bit of time- time my pricing didn't afford me. Divide the hypotenuse length by a number that was close to 13 but less than 14 But first- Draw a vertical- plumb line aligned with and above the landing riser, the height of that line is the ht of the bottom scribe Level off of all the hypotenuse marks with the stringer in the air, deduct tread thickness from the bottom and your off If you can make a triangle with a stop on the hypotenuse ot the triangle you can really fly
As and former ironworker. I am now learning carpentry. So you allow for the deduction of 3/4 in only on the first riser and run outside of that it's 7-1/2 in rise. Your a good teacher.
Thank you for your videos. 1. I am building a sunroom from my deck. The doorstep located at 9’4” from the ground. Should my first step tread be level with the doorstep or it could be below it as shown in your video? 2. In the building code: "Riser height shall not deviate from one another by more than 3/8””. In your video bottom riser deviated by ¾”?
This is amazing stuff. I have no ideal what he talking about. But I get the gist of it. Got to replace step and foundation of stringers. Who ever built the deck used untreated redwood. And it has just rotted to all hell. Was hoping to use it the old one as a pattern. Only 5 steps from top deck to bottom deck. But your video gives me hope. And people wonder why they need to learn math.
@@stairbuilding recordings Fantastic, this next song is coming out very soon It's five minutes, perhaps even longer It's a song about a place that we all come from Oh, look out, Australians in the audience Yes, I thought as much Filthy and two podium people in the audience This is a song called- anyone know what this song's called? (What's it called) maybe you do know what it's called It's called, it's called I think that this is a pretty good town They call this place the Big Apple, right? (Why is that?) what does that make all you? Not apples, worms! That's right Anyway, we feel at home with all people, we're worms too, you know I reckon if they haven't got the tape together now It's all happening, okay, without further ado, it's on the show Traveling in a fried-out Kombi On a hippie trail, head full of zombie I met a strange lady, she made me real nervous She took me in and gave me breakfast She said: "Do you come from a land down under Where women glow and men plunder? Can't you hear, can't you hear the thunder? You better run, you better take cover" Buying bread from a man in Brussels Six foot four, full of muscle I said, "Hey, do you speak-a my language, buck?" He just smiled and gave me a Vegemite sandwich And he said: "I come from a land down under Where beer does flow and men chunder Can't you hear, can't you hear the thunder? You better, better run, you better take cover" Get down Lying in a den in Bombay With a slack jaw, and not much to say I said to the man, "Are you trying to tempt me? Because in my dreams I to the hallway The stairs in the wall that gose to my room that Next to door way I am come downstairs to living Room oh yeah, yeah
This is a very thought out explanation. But for me I would stick with the traditional method of figuring out the rise and run and using a framing square. Which I believe you have a video about that. Thanks again your videos are helpful God Bless
I was taught, and I find it easier to understand, that riser measurements are made by knowing the FINISH to Finish distance. That takes any potential finish-floor thickness difference out of the equation. Also, from the illustration, you are decreasing the effective stringer width (looks like maybe 3/8") by measuring from the BOTTOM of the stock and not the Top of the stock. No?
Is there any reason this method won't work for solid stringers? I want to build mine with unnotched stringers and metal 90 degree angle brackets to support the treads. My rise is 94" and run 90". I'm going with 10 treads. The stairs terminate into a wall, so I'm stuck with these metrics, but I plan on building a metal set in the future, so the last steps will deviate to the right so I can get that 11th tread. Thanks, and thanks for making these videos; I wouldn't have attempted this project without this help.
Hi, how are you? I have a step to build. The height is 8 feet the length is 12 feet but I need to cut the rice 7 1/2 and the step 11 inches I need to cut the string can you help me please
I router my stringers and slot the treads in. Glue and screw never goes anywhere. Twelve inch treads which is really 11 1/4 inch x 7 inch rise there abouts
Can I use 2x10x10 for the stringer. ? I won't be cutting the stringer, I will make the steps diagram you show in the video put 2x4 blocks for the steps. Using 3 boards 12" on center for th 10" wide boards. 3 times I have done this
I can see that you’re trying to simplify it, but IMO that would overwhelm anyone attempting it for their first time.. There’s always another way to skin a cat, but they should understand how to use a framing square to layout..
Without a doubt, miscalculating the bottom stringer riser height is the most common mistake everyone makes. Any time I see a backyard deck set of stairs, my eye always immediately goes to that point, to see if they got it right.
This video was SO HELPFUL to me! Your use of graphics and no nonsense discussion make it so clear. I am rebuilding our stairs this week. I have done a lot of framing, but never stairs. Now and I feel much better prepared. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful and thanks for the kind words.
My deck stringers needed to come down onto a slightly sloping downward concrete sidewalk. This method is the only way to cut the bottom of the stringer so that it conforms to that slight slope and, at the same time, keeps all the stairs at a 180-degree angle.
Once I had that, following all the steps presented here worked perfectly!!
Thank you so much for this approach.
Awesome and thanks for sharing.
It's not the only way. Not many things in building have just one way to do it. Off the top of my head you could measure to a lasered line where your stringers end at the concrete. Find the difference in height of the concrete relative to your centre line (if this is where you took your initial overall rise from) at the lowest point of where your stringers will end. Let's say that the difference is extreme, say 50mm. Now, prop in their position, all stringers 50mm higher than where they will finally rest and cut a 50mm thick block. Using that block and a pencil, scribe the bottom riser of all stringers around the entirety of it's perimeter. Cut and place all the stringers at their true heights. This way ensures you have a near perfect replication of the contours of the concrete in both directions. This, essentially, is the offset method, which a lot of finish carpenters and cabinet installers use.
Great video, thank you! One question: how about when there is a wall on top and I don't have to place the wood to make the marking cut out?
I first played out with a level and tape when I first was building decks
It allowed me to lay the stringers on the lawn where I wanted to land often on a downward sloped lawn where rise and run took a bit of time- time my pricing didn't afford me.
Divide the hypotenuse length by a number that was close to 13 but less than 14
But first-
Draw a vertical- plumb line aligned with and above the landing riser, the height of that line is the ht of the bottom scribe
Level off of all the hypotenuse marks with the stringer in the air, deduct tread thickness from the bottom and your off
If you can make a triangle with a stop on the hypotenuse ot the triangle you can really fly
Great video, thank you! It really simplifies the process for those challenged by geometry.
You're very welcome!
As and former ironworker. I am now learning carpentry. So you allow for the deduction of 3/4 in only on the first riser and run outside of that it's 7-1/2 in rise. Your a good teacher.
Thanks and good points on the riser measurement deduction from tread run.
Thanks stair builders in your vlog about how to cut them off at the house stairs . thank you a lot I' ve learn how to do it with your vlog.
@ 5:18 in your lesson which line should I cut at? The top or the bottom measure at 7 ' 3 1/2 inches????
You are the Man!!! Thank you very much for this lesson!!!
You're very welcome!
Thank you for your videos.
1. I am building a sunroom from my deck. The doorstep located at 9’4” from the ground. Should my first step tread be level with the doorstep or it could be below it as shown in your video?
2. In the building code: "Riser height shall not deviate from one another by more than 3/8””. In your video bottom riser deviated by ¾”?
Wonderful, thanks
Why did you need the first plumb line?
This is amazing stuff. I have no ideal what he talking about. But I get the gist of it. Got to replace step and foundation of stringers. Who ever built the deck used untreated redwood. And it has just rotted to all hell. Was hoping to use it the old one as a pattern. Only 5 steps from top deck to bottom deck. But your video gives me hope. And people wonder why they need to learn math.
This is a great video!
Thank you!
@@stairbuilding recordings
Fantastic, this next song is coming out very soon
It's five minutes, perhaps even longer
It's a song about a place that we all come from
Oh, look out, Australians in the audience
Yes, I thought as much
Filthy and two podium people in the audience
This is a song called- anyone know what this song's called?
(What's it called) maybe you do know what it's called
It's called, it's called
I think that this is a pretty good town
They call this place the Big Apple, right?
(Why is that?) what does that make all you?
Not apples, worms! That's right
Anyway, we feel at home with all people, we're worms too, you know
I reckon if they haven't got the tape together now
It's all happening, okay, without further ado, it's on the show
Traveling in a fried-out Kombi
On a hippie trail, head full of zombie
I met a strange lady, she made me real nervous
She took me in and gave me breakfast
She said:
"Do you come from a land down under
Where women glow and men plunder?
Can't you hear, can't you hear the thunder?
You better run, you better take cover"
Buying bread from a man in Brussels
Six foot four, full of muscle
I said, "Hey, do you speak-a my language, buck?"
He just smiled and gave me a Vegemite sandwich
And he said:
"I come from a land down under
Where beer does flow and men chunder
Can't you hear, can't you hear the thunder?
You better, better run, you better take cover"
Get down
Lying in a den in Bombay
With a slack jaw, and not much to say
I said to the man, "Are you trying to tempt me?
Because in my dreams I to the hallway
The stairs in the wall that gose to my room that Next to door way
I am come downstairs to living Room oh yeah, yeah
Thanks, so much. helpful to understand 🇵🇬
Great video, much more complicated
Glad you liked it
You Sir, are a genius. Thank you.
You're welcome and thanks for the kind words.
Love you sir good job done
thank's great videos
Glad you like them!
This is a very thought out explanation. But for me I would stick with the traditional method of figuring out the rise and run and using a framing square. Which I believe you have a video about that. Thanks again your videos are helpful God Bless
Good point!
@@stairbuildingGood point? What point did he make?
To use the most common method I have in my books.@@mnight207
@@mnight207lolololol
I was taught, and I find it easier to understand, that riser measurements are made by knowing the FINISH to Finish distance. That takes any potential finish-floor thickness difference out of the equation.
Also, from the illustration, you are decreasing the effective stringer width (looks like maybe 3/8") by measuring from the BOTTOM of the stock and not the Top of the stock. No?
Is there any reason this method won't work for solid stringers? I want to build mine with unnotched stringers and metal 90 degree angle brackets to support the treads. My rise is 94" and run 90". I'm going with 10 treads. The stairs terminate into a wall, so I'm stuck with these metrics, but I plan on building a metal set in the future, so the last steps will deviate to the right so I can get that 11th tread. Thanks, and thanks for making these videos; I wouldn't have attempted this project without this help.
No, it should work for solid stringers without notches.
Hi, how are you? I have a step to build. The height is 8 feet the length is 12 feet but I need to cut the rice 7 1/2 and the step 11 inches I need to cut the string can you help me please
There's more information at our website or I have books that can help.
doesnt the riser sit in top of the tread
I router my stringers and slot the treads in. Glue and screw never goes anywhere. Twelve inch treads which is really 11 1/4 inch x 7 inch rise there abouts
Wow laiying it out without a framing square,thats awesome.old school style i guess.
Can I use 2x10x10 for the stringer. ? I won't be cutting the stringer, I will make the steps diagram you show in the video put 2x4 blocks for the steps. Using 3 boards 12" on center for th 10" wide boards. 3 times I have done this
All I can say is that I've seen it before. I don't provide lumber sizes, because it is different in some areas.
There shouldn’t be any kind of code issue preventing you from doing it that way, using 2x10.
Hallelujah 👏👏👏👏👏 Thank you!!!!
You are so welcome
Thank you so much. I have a project that I will be using this.
Wonderful!
I can see that you’re trying to simplify it, but IMO that would overwhelm anyone attempting it for their first time.. There’s always another way to skin a cat, but they should understand how to use a framing square to layout..
Why install risers first? Seems more sound to do the treads first, get more bit on the stringer, then fasten the riser. Good video either way
Thank so much
Without a doubt, miscalculating the bottom stringer riser height is the most common mistake everyone makes. Any time I see a backyard deck set of stairs, my eye always immediately goes to that point, to see if they got it right.
🖐
Another thanks for watching and the thumbs up.
So, after this video if you have a question... framing is not your thing. (Joke 😆)
Maybe picture framing:)
This has completely screwed me up. Old school way much easier
Sorrrrrrrrrrrry!!!
@@stairbuilding lol I got it now. It just had to “click”
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤭🤭😴😴😴
Nope
Will this same technique work for ramp joists?
It seems like it would.