I just binge watched a bunch of your videos before I head into work. They were the dopamine rush I needed to start the day. Excited to see more from you in the future. Great job man !
Nice! If your worried about the belt snapping, cut a 2" length of belt and put the teeth into the seam (1" each side). Wrap with thread and epoxy (fiber glass like). Put the seam where it won't ever hit the tooth gears.
To virtual eliminate broken taps, try chip free metal forming taps. These don't cut chips, they deform the metal in the hole into threads. A different size hole is drilled first, then the tap is run through the hole. Since no chips are cut, the tap won't get jammed. McMaster Carr is a good source. These taps are also called roll taps or thread forming taps. Game changers.
also.. for tapping holes that go THROUGH a material.. use a forward tap, or gun tap. (full speed ahead! worth every cent) blind holes need a sprial tap.. (ur guna break heapsa these.... blind holes suck ass.) and hand taps suck ass.
@@nefariousyawn pr sure they are designed for impact drive. hence the hex shank. normal drills have to much torque n just snap them.. as soon as they bind, but the impact taps them through the tappy taps! ha! tappy taps.
Something like a pressure switch in line with the bottle, conected to a arduino that runs a timer and if the bottle is not turned off after an hour it runs a siren.
@@relativelygood9995 You have to mount the laser tube in a fixed position behind the machine and then route the laserpath with mirros to the head. If you then try to move the head up and down you would be out of alignment with the laserpath. Everything stays stationary horizontally, the head only moves X and Y together with the corresponding mirrors. Thats why it is easier to move the bed in this case.
Never forget the onion when building a CNC machine, it's the most important step.
I just binge watched a bunch of your videos before I head into work. They were the dopamine rush I needed to start the day. Excited to see more from you in the future. Great job man !
I love seeing the cockford-ollie ave shirt. Keep up the GREAT WORK BRO!!!!
Nice! If your worried about the belt snapping, cut a 2" length of belt and put the teeth into the seam (1" each side). Wrap with thread and epoxy (fiber glass like). Put the seam where it won't ever hit the tooth gears.
this is a good idea, thanks!
This dude is out here living my dream and I'm all the way here for it, minus a functioning pancreas.
Nice build! I'll have to try some drill taps, they seem like a convenient way to speed up my off kilter tapping
To virtual eliminate broken taps, try chip free metal forming taps. These don't cut chips, they deform the metal in the hole into threads. A different size hole is drilled first, then the tap is run through the hole. Since no chips are cut, the tap won't get jammed. McMaster Carr is a good source. These taps are also called roll taps or thread forming taps. Game changers.
This is amazing. I love your work 👍 have a daenger
That bed is nice, very easy to level.
Very nice Brother!! Looking forward to part 2!
I went with a small roller chain and sprockets to drive all 4 corners. I know I'm a bit late to suggest it but it's worked fantastic.
those fluted taps work AMAZING in a impact driver, but are USELESS in a normal drill :)
Tip of the day.
also.. for tapping holes that go THROUGH a material..
use a forward tap, or gun tap. (full speed ahead! worth every cent)
blind holes need a sprial tap.. (ur guna break heapsa these.... blind holes suck ass.)
and hand taps suck ass.
I've been wary of using them in an impact driver because it seems like a sure way to break em.
gonna give it a shot, here goes nothin!
Thanks for the tip. I would have assumed the impact driver would be more likely to break them.
@@nefariousyawn pr sure they are designed for impact drive. hence the hex shank.
normal drills have to much torque n just snap them.. as soon as they bind, but the impact taps them through the tappy taps! ha! tappy taps.
It’s always encouraging watching other people struggle with snap rings. They are the worst
How about making a thing that tells you to turn off your argon when you leave it open? Like the drillbit thing. :D Anyways nice build!
Something like a pressure switch in line with the bottle, conected to a arduino that runs a timer and if the bottle is not turned off after an hour it runs a siren.
@@teddyminator I 100% am going to have to do this haha
Would like to see that :D
@@cranktowncity DO IT.
Looks great
Nice work.....
Can you build auto Wolverine claws. Hacksmith version was meh
Nice work
14:55 pretty cool 😂😂😂
DINGER EARNED!!
Love the shirt
Looks good 😀
Proper Job...!
Great man.
2:35 ....smart ass.... 😅😅😅😅
At 4:05 it shows you using a machine to cut parts. What is that?
"Fabri-coble" Word of the day bro
Noice 👍
Que buen trabajo!!
Creo que nesesitan engles
A lot of help I want one
So wait whats the reason for having a y axis on a laser cutter?
to accommodate for different thickness materials, and different focal length lenses
@@cranktowncity what if you had just made that stuff happen in the head? sorry if this is a dumb question, i have no real idea what i'm talking about
@@relativelygood9995 You have to mount the laser tube in a fixed position behind the machine and then route the laserpath with mirros to the head. If you then try to move the head up and down you would be out of alignment with the laserpath. Everything stays stationary horizontally, the head only moves X and Y together with the corresponding mirrors. Thats why it is easier to move the bed in this case.
Need any part for that laser let me know
Dinger! 6:39
Check that it is square...😂😂😂
Zip. zap. zoom....
man i wish i had that much shop space