Just a heads up - you _really_ don't want the belts to be on an angled path like you have them shown at 4:35 -- the tension changes, and thus you'll get weird artifacts there and inaccuracy as you get near the edges. You want that belt to be parallel to the travel axis in order to maintain tension equally across all range of travel. Additionally at 5:05 -- you can use the motor bracket as the tensioner. Regardless; can't wait for the release - I have a K40 I'd love to transplant into a larger frame to gain a better working area.
Small tip, you may run into dimensional issues when using your laser, since your belts aren't running in parallel to the extrusions. So the dimensional deviations become higher, the more your laser head moves to the edges of the frame. Just something you might want to look in to, when debugging later on.
Came here to say this. Rough guess is maybe +3mm over max x travel and a little over half that on y. Also, parts won’t be square, they’ll be kinda ‘spikey’ with corner angles less than 90°. Unless software calibration now has the ability to automatically scale with distance from center, there won’t be a way to correct for this.
The downside of using the cheap and convenient GT2 pulley/sprocket... a larger diameter one would allow the belt to act in parallel to the carriage movement plane, removing the angular discrepancy.
One more thing you might consider in the future. I have a bit of experience with CO2 laser cutters myself. For the cutting head / focusing lens I would recommend you upgrade in the future to a bigger head that can hold a 20mm lens. At the same focal length a 20mm lens will have a smaller "spot size" compared to a 18 or 12mm lens (done tests myself with 18 and 20mm). This can improve your cutting speed and help you get better details while engraving.
It looks like you have some belt deflection going on, I would either raise the belt tensioner, or lower the mounting point on your gantry. Eliminating deflection will give you more accuracy, and keep the amount of movement constant (per rotation of the stepper motor) over the whole range of the bed.
i really like your design and im looking to build a co2 laser myself but a common design feature i see on production machines is a synchronized belt system for the Y steppers, or using one stepper with double output , the thought is if those steppers shift you get a laser beam changing angle dramatically very fast if a motor dies or becomes out of sync. my thought was to just copy how they did the Y on the ender 5 to solve this .
Why do people overcomplicate things so much? I build my co2 laser cutter 5 years ago with parts i bought exclusively from AliExpress, the only thing i had to custom made was the plywood enclosure. I'm not against using custom made parts it's just some people may think they are necessary when in fact every component is readily available and at a bargain price.
I just found a company here in NZ called the aluminum extrusion company and they have the extrusions and fittings for almost half the price as aliexpres so a 20x40 at 1200mm is 35nzd. Just helps a bit with the cost of ya build ✌
I guess you're moving the whole bed instead of just the head because you're making a CO² laser? IDK much about the adjustability of CO² laser heads - would the varying thicknesses you are planning to cut be outside the range of focus?
Having run a CO2 laser for some years now I'm interested to learn why you went for a CO2 laser. Getting the frame and mirrors set up properly is such a fiddly job and if you don't devote a good deal of time and attention to it "you lose power" from the laser. I'm seriously considering swapping out all of the CO2 gubbins from my setup and changing over to a diode laser. They seem to be getting better and better and would probably suit my uses just fine.
Are your 4 Z motors going to be series/parallel wiring? Like left/right pairs? That might balance the load on the drivers Maybe a stronger outboard driver for Z.
It's been 7 months, have you completed it yet or have you shared the CAD anywhere? I'm about to build one and wondering if I should copy someone design or just cook stuff up along the way. Got an ACRO laser with diode akready, maybe I can piggyback with it to save some space
Great video. I didn't see any new updates, are the build files available? I would like to begin building this and hopefully be close when you show the completed engraver.
Nice design and thanks for sharing the CAD files...Who can help me with dividing the CAD file and separating the parts into separate files. Step file opened in Freecad show all parts as "ONE" . No idea how to proceed, I have no knowledge of Freecad or Autodesk Looking forward to hearing from you Thank you
This looks like it will shape up into a very nice project. How's it coming along and what price does it roughly seem to be totaling to? Thanks for your hard work
Hey! How it would be possible to make it more powerful? Is it as simple as installing more powerful co2 module or it is not that easy? Also I am curious if your design could be sized just by changing alu extrusion lenght or there should be also other significant changes done?
Where is the progress. I need to heart (the Lazer bits) to know what to buy when yours is working. I want to cut webbing for making custom kit for big fellas
I purchased a homebuilt from plans CNC router 18 months ago and intended to rebuild it, but this...this is a must do. I can get an 80W to 100W tube, but then I'll need a chiller too.
skip the CO2 laser and just go straight to Fiber instead. Go to the @diyfiberlaser RUclips channel (Travis Mitchell) and search for his DIY 1000-watt fiber laser video series.
@@G5Ckxew I have thought of that. Fiber is amazing at cutting.....what about engraving? I've never seen anyone do it but I haven't sought out videos of that either.
I converted an old ice machine into a water chiller for about $80. Just modify it so the ice dumps back into the water reservoir and continuously makes a ice water brine that can then be circulated through the laser. I use a water thermostat to act as the water protect feature on the laser
It feels like direct driving that threaded rod with the loads you can expect on it might have questionable results. I guess it depends what kind of platform you're using and what you're cutting. You get 5 pounds on there and I dunno about it going up.
OK it´s a Lasercutter but when did you use scratch? all what i see are new parts or self milled parts you can defently say most of them are self made but i see now scratch. its a good projekt and i like to watch but not what i expected
I just discovered your channel with this video. Very good job, I am thinking to improve my k40 laser and it's inspiring. I would have used a core xy system to reduce weight of the moving part.
Great video and build. Highly appreciate sharing CAD files but would be best to cleanup CAD before sharing. I had to edit so many files and do so many reprints to successfully complete this build i could have easily started from scratch...
@01:00 Already a good head start - I don't think I've ever seen a more appropriate demonstration for the need of safety goggles than with this display 🤔
Well I applaud the effort and work, I think you would have been better off with an acro system plate kit. It was something like 30 dollars. Yes, it's cut from acrylic but if so inclined you can download the files to cut the plates in aluminum.
Would you mind sharing at least the frame cut list now? Where will you be sharing files? VERY cool design! I can see a need for a different tool plate coming as this can be a 3D printer and a few other things. Can I give you the dimensions and plate spacing for my diode laser as an example? I'd be willing to help admin a Discord channel for this also.
Engineering? This is mechanical and electical engineering but Im a software engineer who built something similar. Whats nice is that aluminum extrusion is highly sYou can learn like I did by spending way to much money on amazon parts through trial and error but its a fun hobby. For a lot of robotic systems you can think of there being sort of an erector set for adults
@@johnathanrice3569 Do you have any recommendations on ways to learn to code and what language? I currently know a little Python but I barely know any. I can do basic loops, print things, and check for equality.
the stepper motors shouldn't need a heat sink. they should never get hot unless you're over driving them which would be ridiculous on a co2 laser cutter. i been 3D printing for 8 years and never ever had a motor get warm to the touch let alone hot even after a 30 hour print.
yeah, since there's no contact or friction between the cutting element and material, the machined aluminum parts are prob overkill. 3D printed would prob work great too, I agree :)
Awesome video! I see you promoted Siraya Tech Nylon Black as being "really tough", but my experience has been terrible with every resin I've tried on the cheaper MSLA printers (Elegoo Saturn). I'm not clear what printer you have, but it looks like the same tech. The parts always come out looking and feeling great, but their creep, fatigue and wear resistance is *terrible*. I've tried a lot of different "engineering" resins and they all suffer the same ultimate fate. Though never heard of Nylon Black until now. What is your take on this topic? Is your printer MSLA? I would believe that DLP resin printers could cure parts to spec better, though I think none can match the laser-based ones like Formlabs. I badly want to be able to make engineering parts with my Saturn, but I'm convinced that the MSLA/LED tech is a lost cause for anything that will be subjected to regular loads. And I echo the other comment that you should use a larger-diameter timing belt wheel to try to get those belts parallel to the extrusion, assuming the motors can handle the extra torque.
Have you tried adjusting your exposure power and time settings? Those being off might cause the resin to not cure, or even over cure. I'm not an expert, but I'd expect with proper cure the resin should have the properties it's supposed to have, regardless of what type of machine did said cure.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a heads up - you _really_ don't want the belts to be on an angled path like you have them shown at 4:35 -- the tension changes, and thus you'll get weird artifacts there and inaccuracy as you get near the edges. You want that belt to be parallel to the travel axis in order to maintain tension equally across all range of travel. Additionally at 5:05 -- you can use the motor bracket as the tensioner.
Regardless; can't wait for the release - I have a K40 I'd love to transplant into a larger frame to gain a better working area.
I was thinking of adding an offset to the tensioner to stop that.
@@andycrask3531 A larger Pulley would do the same thing as well
Agreed!
chill its just a youtube video made for the spectacle, nothing serious
No chill. I may want to build this thing.
Small tip, you may run into dimensional issues when using your laser, since your belts aren't running in parallel to the extrusions. So the dimensional deviations become higher, the more your laser head moves to the edges of the frame. Just something you might want to look in to, when debugging later on.
sounds like a software problem
-- HW Engineer
Came here to say this. Rough guess is maybe +3mm over max x travel and a little over half that on y. Also, parts won’t be square, they’ll be kinda ‘spikey’ with corner angles less than 90°.
Unless software calibration now has the ability to automatically scale with distance from center, there won’t be a way to correct for this.
The downside of using the cheap and convenient GT2 pulley/sprocket... a larger diameter one would allow the belt to act in parallel to the carriage movement plane, removing the angular discrepancy.
could make a perpendicular slot in the part to rout it under then through the slot and to the clamp to that it is more inline with the plain.
@@PiefacePete46 3D printing some bigger sprockets with skateboard bearings is a viable solution.
I don't know what the American equivalent of "occupational health and safety" is, but the glasses that cover the eyes are probably not that expensive
It's called OSHA, but you only need to follow those regulations if you're on a commercial build site which requires licensure.
@@anon_y_mousse in fact, yes, but the eyeball prostheses do not do it yet, which is a pity
Safety squints are super effective, just don't look directly at the spinning blade of death shooting tiny spikes at your face and watch your hands.
Another American thing you missed. If you have nothing nice to say don’t say anything at all.
@@SimpleMeFPV it is a nice thing to say, losing an eye is no joke. Keeping each other accountable is a good thing it's just constructive criticism.
One more thing you might consider in the future.
I have a bit of experience with CO2 laser cutters myself. For the cutting head / focusing lens I would recommend you upgrade in the future to a bigger head that can hold a 20mm lens. At the same focal length a 20mm lens will have a smaller "spot size" compared to a 18 or 12mm lens (done tests myself with 18 and 20mm). This can improve your cutting speed and help you get better details while engraving.
In your next video, could you also include a purchased part list? Tube, mirrors, lenses, control board etc.? Thanks!
in just 2 videos your editing and voiceover has gotten significantly better, keep it up!
It looks like you have some belt deflection going on, I would either raise the belt tensioner, or lower the mounting point on your gantry. Eliminating deflection will give you more accuracy, and keep the amount of movement constant (per rotation of the stepper motor) over the whole range of the bed.
when is the next video dropping
Love the tube mount, the adjustment mechanism especially!
This is what i call quality content
i really like your design and im looking to build a co2 laser myself but a common design feature i see on production machines is a synchronized belt system for the Y steppers, or using one stepper with double output , the thought is if those steppers shift you get a laser beam changing angle dramatically very fast if a motor dies or becomes out of sync. my thought was to just copy how they did the Y on the ender 5 to solve this .
Did you ever do a followup video for this - as well as the files? I saw in your latest video you were using the laser cutter. Thanks and subscribed!
He did indeed do a part 2 video, with a link to CAD files: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1A_2T810oLfjeFdJv24SOPYIA9VybPTIu
Why do people overcomplicate things so much? I build my co2 laser cutter 5 years ago with parts i bought exclusively from AliExpress, the only thing i had to custom made was the plywood enclosure. I'm not against using custom made parts it's just some people may think they are necessary when in fact every component is readily available and at a bargain price.
why did you have your sla printed part in water/alcohol when you were UV curing?
Maybe a list of parts and where you sourced them would also be helpful. Thanks for the video
nice work , im thinking to build one too. When you will be releasing part list? looking forward for next Video
I'm also interested in this and off course the cad drawings 😉
Great video Michael! Super cool project, excited to follow it!
I just found a company here in NZ called the aluminum extrusion company and they have the extrusions and fittings for almost half the price as aliexpres so a 20x40 at 1200mm is 35nzd.
Just helps a bit with the cost of ya build ✌
I guess you're moving the whole bed instead of just the head because you're making a CO² laser? IDK much about the adjustability of CO² laser heads - would the varying thicknesses you are planning to cut be outside the range of focus?
Having run a CO2 laser for some years now I'm interested to learn why you went for a CO2 laser. Getting the frame and mirrors set up properly is such a fiddly job and if you don't devote a good deal of time and attention to it "you lose power" from the laser. I'm seriously considering swapping out all of the CO2 gubbins from my setup and changing over to a diode laser. They seem to be getting better and better and would probably suit my uses just fine.
Where would you get a diode laser with anywhere near the output power of a CO2 laser?
@@glabifrons they make some really high power ones now but i agree i think its impossible at the moment even with the best
What computer are you going to use to run the laser? A Raspberry Pi or something custom?
You're moving the entire bed up and down, using 4 x n17 motors? How'd that work out?
Love seeing someone who uses safety squints too!
This is exactly the kind of project I'm looking for.
Have you got any further with it?
Hello, what model of milling machine is it? how many watts is it?
What type of filament are you using for your 3D printer? I like the matte look.
Are your 4 Z motors going to be series/parallel wiring? Like left/right pairs? That might balance the load on the drivers Maybe a stronger outboard driver for Z.
i was gonna mention the angled belt as a potential problem, but it looks like you have an army of people saying the same thing. has it been fixed?
Can I use gt2 6mm belt for x and y?
Because it is only available in my place!
It's been 7 months, have you completed it yet or have you shared the CAD anywhere? I'm about to build one and wondering if I should copy someone design or just cook stuff up along the way. Got an ACRO laser with diode akready, maybe I can piggyback with it to save some space
Great video. I didn't see any new updates, are the build files available? I would like to begin building this and hopefully be close when you show the completed engraver.
He did indeed do a part 2 video, with a link to CAD files: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1A_2T810oLfjeFdJv24SOPYIA9VybPTIu
@@design8studio Thank You.
Nice design and thanks for sharing the CAD files...Who can help me with dividing the CAD file and separating the parts into separate files.
Step file opened in Freecad show all parts as "ONE" .
No idea how to proceed, I have no knowledge of Freecad or Autodesk
Looking forward to hearing from you Thank you
can you point me to cad files?
This looks like it will shape up into a very nice project. How's it coming along and what price does it roughly seem to be totaling to? Thanks for your hard work
he had to buy a laser cutter to make some of the new parts so the cost has gone up
5:15 Are you curing directly in IsoP?
You just posted a new video showing your laser cutter at work....got that supplies list and blueprints?
Curious why you went with NEMA17's instead of NEMA23's?
Hey! How it would be possible to make it more powerful? Is it as simple as installing more powerful co2 module or it is not that easy? Also I am curious if your design could be sized just by changing alu extrusion lenght or there should be also other significant changes done?
C02 lasers power are proportional to their size. In about a year or two given the current growth rate diode lasers will be putting out 100watts
what screwdriver were you using for assembly? that thing looks awesome
Where is the progress. I need to heart (the Lazer bits) to know what to buy when yours is working. I want to cut webbing for making custom kit for big fellas
Just curious if the cad models for this are available?
Tell me about those VERY thin shank screwdrivers
Any cut list yet? Really like your design and the size of your laser.
What are your settings for cutting alu? Also what bit was used? Thanks
That looks great & just what I`m after - are those cad files still available please?
I purchased a homebuilt from plans CNC router 18 months ago and intended to rebuild it, but this...this is a must do. I can get an 80W to 100W tube, but then I'll need a chiller too.
skip the CO2 laser and just go straight to Fiber instead.
Go to the @diyfiberlaser RUclips channel (Travis Mitchell) and search for his DIY 1000-watt fiber laser video series.
@@G5Ckxew I have thought of that. Fiber is amazing at cutting.....what about engraving? I've never seen anyone do it but I haven't sought out videos of that either.
@@jarodmorris611
Good question.
@@G5Ckxew I would love to have a fiber laser. I would like to cut out knife blanks and either make them into knives, or sell them as kits.
I converted an old ice machine into a water chiller for about $80. Just modify it so the ice dumps back into the water reservoir and continuously makes a ice water brine that can then be circulated through the laser. I use a water thermostat to act as the water protect feature on the laser
Hi, what's going on, can you share the list of equipment you used to create such a printer and files please?
hello, there s some tald abouth shared cad files but i cant seem to find them:( awsome job hope it serves you well
I HAVE SEEN YOUR MACHINE, OK , WERE CAN I FIND PLANS OF PICES?....... I LIVE IN ECUADOR SOUTH AMERICA
It feels like direct driving that threaded rod with the loads you can expect on it might have questionable results. I guess it depends what kind of platform you're using and what you're cutting. You get 5 pounds on there and I dunno about it going up.
Would love to make something like this, but with a interchangeable toolhead so I can use it as a CNC cutter as well.
Hi Michael! I would love to look at the CAD and control files if it's not too much to ask!
Were the BOM and CAD files provided somewhere?
in part 2 of this build
@@drood78 thanks!
I have a junky But big diode laser that I've been considering doing something similar with, this is helpful thank you
Very similar to my never ending 50W build.. I'll get around to finishing it one day, maybe I'll start again with your design ;-)
Could please share 3d print files!
Is there a link for BOM and STL download
What would you estimate the maximum dimensions to be for the aluminum framing without noticeable flex?
hello i know this is an old video but may i ask where is the part 2
OK it´s a Lasercutter but when did you use scratch? all what i see are new parts or self milled parts you can defently say most of them are self made but i see now scratch. its a good projekt and i like to watch but not what i expected
this looks really nice, it's so clean, the whole thing.
Hi. Is it able to cut fabric?
Will you have a build update video soon?
I hope so!
I just discovered your channel with this video. Very good job, I am thinking to improve my k40 laser and it's inspiring. I would have used a core xy system to reduce weight of the moving part.
Do you have the files this is cool
Great video and build. Highly appreciate sharing CAD files but would be best to cleanup CAD before sharing. I had to edit so many files and do so many reprints to successfully complete this build i could have easily started from scratch...
@01:00 Already a good head start - I don't think I've ever seen a more appropriate demonstration for the need of safety goggles than with this display 🤔
Sweet!! Looking forward to more videos on this.
How much power will you be running?
Do you have the files?
Loved the video and need a suggestion between a normal c02 laser or a diode laser which do you consider is the most cost-effective?
Thanks for posting this
Where can i find the files for the 3d printed parts?
MAN! i love these videos !
Seeing it open framed like that scares me deep in my bones and eyeballs.
what speed u use to cut in the router ?
Do you have the code for the software to make it all work available to download?
Here’s an arduino IDE program that would control it:
#include
// Define pins for the stepper motor drivers
#define STEPPER_X_DIR 3
#define STEPPER_X_STEP 2
#define STEPPER_Y_DIR 6
#define STEPPER_Y_STEP 5
// Define laser control pins
#define LASER_PIN 9
// Define maximum and minimum laser power (0-255)
#define MAX_LASER_POWER 255
#define MIN_LASER_POWER 0
// Define scan parameters
#define SCAN_SPEED 5000
#define SCAN_X_MIN 0
#define SCAN_X_MAX 100
#define SCAN_Y_MIN 0
#define SCAN_Y_MAX 100
#define SCAN_STEP_SIZE 5
// Initialize stepper motors
AccelStepper stepper_x(AccelStepper::DRIVER, STEPPER_X_STEP, STEPPER_X_DIR);
AccelStepper stepper_y(AccelStepper::DRIVER, STEPPER_Y_STEP, STEPPER_Y_DIR);
void setup() {
// Set up stepper motors
stepper_x.setMaxSpeed(SCAN_SPEED);
stepper_y.setMaxSpeed(SCAN_SPEED);
// Set up laser control
pinMode(LASER_PIN, OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
// Define scan pattern
for (int y = SCAN_Y_MIN; y
Any way to get the stl files for the 3d printed parts?
I WANT TO USE MORE PARTS FOR A DIODE LASER MACHINE
Build list?
Well I applaud the effort and work, I think you would have been better off with an acro system plate kit.
It was something like 30 dollars. Yes, it's cut from acrylic but if so inclined you can download the files to cut the plates in aluminum.
when is gonna be part 2
what software / firmware will you be using
Are you still open to sharing the plans?
DUDE, YOUR AWESOME !!!
Hi Michael, I'm willing to purchase your laser files off you if you have them available? Thanks
I would be willing to purchase also
No further videos?
Where's the rest of this build?
Would you mind sharing at least the frame cut list now? Where will you be sharing files? VERY cool design! I can see a need for a different tool plate coming as this can be a 3D printer and a few other things. Can I give you the dimensions and plate spacing for my diode laser as an example? I'd be willing to help admin a Discord channel for this also.
Awsome design. Cant wait for the next videos.
parts list plz
Does anyone have any recommendations on where I could learn to do this kind of stuff?
Engineering? This is mechanical and electical engineering but Im a software engineer who built something similar. Whats nice is that aluminum extrusion is highly sYou can learn like I did by spending way to much money on amazon parts through trial and error but its a fun hobby. For a lot of robotic systems you can think of there being sort of an erector set for adults
@@johnathanrice3569 Do you have any recommendations on ways to learn to code and what language? I currently know a little Python but I barely know any. I can do basic loops, print things, and check for equality.
It's always nice to see there is people who still like to build 👌
Very nice project! I think though this project is like mine... not completed :) I was hopping to use your 3d printed parts to complete mine.
No cad files found here😕 could use the belt tensioner
Really cool video though just a waste of time since I can't build one too
7:55 your belt and 2040 problem.
Not estetic to place X motor.
the stepper motors shouldn't need a heat sink. they should never get hot unless you're over driving them which would be ridiculous on a co2 laser cutter.
i been 3D printing for 8 years and never ever had a motor get warm to the touch let alone hot even after a 30 hour print.
cut 6mm clear acrylic and white depron and see how it performs. A lot of hobbyists works with the materials that I mentioned.
Awesome project. I’ve been thinking about doing one
yeah, since there's no contact or friction between the cutting element and material, the machined aluminum parts are prob overkill. 3D printed would prob work great too, I agree :)
Awesome video! I see you promoted Siraya Tech Nylon Black as being "really tough", but my experience has been terrible with every resin I've tried on the cheaper MSLA printers (Elegoo Saturn). I'm not clear what printer you have, but it looks like the same tech. The parts always come out looking and feeling great, but their creep, fatigue and wear resistance is *terrible*. I've tried a lot of different "engineering" resins and they all suffer the same ultimate fate. Though never heard of Nylon Black until now.
What is your take on this topic? Is your printer MSLA? I would believe that DLP resin printers could cure parts to spec better, though I think none can match the laser-based ones like Formlabs. I badly want to be able to make engineering parts with my Saturn, but I'm convinced that the MSLA/LED tech is a lost cause for anything that will be subjected to regular loads.
And I echo the other comment that you should use a larger-diameter timing belt wheel to try to get those belts parallel to the extrusion, assuming the motors can handle the extra torque.
Have you tried adjusting your exposure power and time settings? Those being off might cause the resin to not cure, or even over cure. I'm not an expert, but I'd expect with proper cure the resin should have the properties it's supposed to have, regardless of what type of machine did said cure.
Thickness of stepper motor sheild
And dimensions of 2 roller Pulley
Excellent work, clean design elements.