Installing parts can be overwhelming. At least for me. I do my best and learn as I go. Take a moment and check out my video on the Falcon Nexus 2.2 Steering Stablizer. ruclips.net/video/27hkGGlYn40/видео.html
I’m pretty sure that you didn’t have cut that nut like that. That tie rod has a ball joint end on it. You simply just needed to put a allen wrench on the top of the ball joint stud and use an open end wrench on the nut you cut off.🤔🤦🏼♂️
@@thetrailaheadofus you can also usually put a floor jack with a block of wood under the tie rod end and jack the wood up against the tie rod end until it has a lot of pressure on it. That will force the taper of the stud up tight enough that you can back the nut off without spinning the stud.
@@wvjeepguy8178 thank you for this. This is why this community is so amazing. I’m on here trying to figure this stuff out as I go and you guys offer suggestions on what I could have done or could do. I know just enough to get into trouble you know…. Thanks for the feedback. I really do appreciate it.
Sam thing happened to me, Long Island, NY, road salt AND Salty Air, I had cut mine through the actual tie rod end itself, on the drag link, the Allan head on the bolt was so encrusted with rust.
I used to think Teraflex was the best. I was wrong. Metalcloack by far has superior products and research to back it up. Good for you. You will be much happier.
I’m learning that the hard way. I’ve also already started installing other TeraFlex parts and I can’t return things. Hopefully their Falcon 3.3 suspension is better than their tie-rod and drag link. 👍🏻
If you still have the Teraflex drag link, there is a way to adjust the ends. May be interesting to you to try this. You need the tool that came with the drag link. It goes on a 3/8" rachet and has 4 prongs sticking out. On the joints you will see four allen heads. Two are set screws so keep track of which is where when you remove them. Then use the tool to gently turn the joint watching thru one of the set screw holes till you see the next hole the set screw can go in. Then put all the allen head screws back in and grease the joints. On mine, I could only go tighter on one. The other would only turn part way to the next hole for the set screw, and you dont want to force these.
Terraflex joints you can set the play as the joints wear. I thought my joints were shot. I got the tool and adjusted the preload of all 4 steering joints. Noise and play are gone! Metal cloak joints are the same flop design but not serviceable. You have to replace. But they did metal cloak and terraflex both have awesome customer service.
Thanks for the info. It was a mess for sure. A lot I wasn't aware of and had to work through. The pictures didn't do justice for how bad the threads were. Just totally gone. But I see your point. Hopefully, no issues moving forward.
@@thetrailaheadofus yeah man 👍 my metal cloaks arms wore out in 2 years. They sent my new tie rod ends no problem, but I got a terraflex set for free and found the alignment was easier to set and the joints are adjustable and replaceable (snap ring) so I keep a extra joint in case I bust one in the trail. The metal itself is forged and feels heavier then the metal cloak. I’m happy with both. And both companies helped me out with parts without charging.
@@WolfOverland Damn, two years? I guess a lot of depends on use. I live in Florida so use is light even on our Fire roads. Different story when I'm overlanding in the mountains. I was and still am, a huge fan of TeraFlex. I think I like the Gold Zinc on the MC just b/c I live in Florida with so much humidity and salt air. They seem to be holding up so far. But then again, I'm washing the undercarriage, regularly. lol
Thank you Mike, I really do appreciate the comment. I hope the install video did your products justice. Looking forward to installing more parts from MetalCloak.
Teraflex was awesome on answering questions, advice on products and insuring the reliability of products to me. I even waited for a certain product to be, "revamped" before purchasing it per a TF reps advice. When that long awaited product failed, I thought no problem, yeah right. I was completely ghosted and blown off. That ended any more TF products going on my Jeeps. I felt so bad for you when I saw you start cutting and doing all that extra work, I kept hoping you would see where the Allen key went. We all have to learn somehow I guess.
Thank you for commenting. Along with a few others, your comments truly help me. I've not hidden that I'm not a mechanic by any means and I majorly struggle with some of these installs. I can only hope, I learn from it and from your comments. It's unfortunate the support wasn't there for you and eventually for this. I have several other products from TF and they have been great, no-issue products. It's interesting you mentioned the Allen key...I did notice and meant to comment in the video about it. The surface was so rusted, I couldn't get the Allen key to fit properly. Every time I put any torque on it, it slipped out. There was no solid grip. Thanks again and take care.
@@thetrailaheadofus hopefully you never run into the same issue again, but another trick is a pickle fork with ample downward force while turning the nut. Some of the Jeep forums and local FB groups are very helpful also. But keep up the not being afraid of learning and doing it yourself.
Hey everyone, they make a "nut cracker" for this. Craftsman makes them, among others and it can be had at lowes. I have one. Haven't needed it, yet. lol. but it goes around the nut, then it has a blade that will cut into the nut as you turn the outside bolt. They are not expensive either.
NO complaints. The only thing I'll say is, I live in Florida and I knew the salt air and humidity would play a factor. The Gold Zinc has faded a bit, but I guess that's to be expected? Not sure, but they've held up well and still look great.
@@dunnoyolo2238 You can adjust the end nuts a bit to make sure your spacing is correct from driver side tire to passenger. And adjust the steering knuckle as needed.
I have the MC track bar, front and rear, and the Rocksport Steering damper (MC), but have Moog tie rod and drag link, which will be “cloaked” when they fail.
@@thetrailaheadofus the only issue was the drag link adjustment sleeve was faulty, the last 1.5” or so was not threaded properly (burred/flattened), so I could not adjust it (pitman side tie rod end) properly, stopped when I needed another 1” of adjusting my steering wheel. I ended up using the one from the Mopar unit I replaced, and they would not let me send that part back alone for a replacement, all or nothing, so I just said forget it and kept the Mopar sleeve on, works perfectly, just an issue with Moog’s Quality assurance process. It’s literally a $20 part, but they should make it easier to replace a faulty part. Other than that, a decent tie rod and track bar.
@@TheSchmed Ya, I totally understand. It bothers me when an industry that’s skyrocketed recently due to how popular overlanding has become, that companies are still being like this. I’m glad you worked it out though..
Did you stick with the Teraflex stabilizer mount? I'm about to pull the trigger on new steering setup from MC for their Labor Day sales, but I'm keeping my Falcon TS Stabilizer. I'm a little confused on how to mount this.
@@thetrailaheadofus good to know, thank you. I have the axle mounted style and purchased the tie rod mount to switch it out. I also got front and rear MC end links, MC track bar, tie rod and drag link. Should make for a busy weekend 👍🏻
@@thetrailaheadofusI saw tyat too but I also heard love of people preferred the TF mount over the MC mount. I got the TF mount on Amazon so if there’s any issues I can return it.
Did you notice any difference when it came to steering with the new drag link? I have a JLUR and I have replaced almost all OEM steering component except for the drag link and even when aligned the steering feels kinda weak at times.
Hello, thanks for reaching out. I've struggled with steering since upgrading to the lift and tire. While I try and do one upgrade at a time so that I can see what differences it makes, in this case, I swapped the drag-link and tie-road out at same time. My JKU didn't pull as much afterward. However with my suspension, springs and rear track bar swap, is when I noticed a huge difference in steering. None of this stuff is cheap and while in my case, the drag-link alone didn't make huge differences, I felt more comfortable knowing I had done that particular upgrade. Hope this helps in some way. Let me know. Have a great day.
Hello Shane. I haven’t had any experience with the SteerSmarts products. I’ve heard good things, but can’t give an opinion on this. Maybe someone else can. I don’t think any of these brands are bad or not beefy enough. I had liked the TF (and still do with most of their products) and based on some feedback from friends, decided to go with MetalCloak products. And I can’t complain about any MC component that I’ve installed so far. Hopefully, someone can speak to the SteerSmarts. ✌
@@shanec.7105 I understand. I do think their Adjustable shocks are great. I’ve loved them since install. But, like I mentioned, I’ve been super happy with all the MetalCloak products I have.
Yes you are right. People like this guy should not be making repair videos. He doesn't even know how a ball joint works. Try using an Allen wrench in the top of the ball joint!
Thank you for the comment. Being "this guy" I actually do know what ball joints are for and how they work. As I stated in the video and in previous comments, what I experienced wasn't something I had seen or dealt with and was very honest about not knowing how to resolve it. The shop I work with also mentioned not seeing this before. Oh well, things happen and in every video I post, I make it clear I'm learning these things as I go. It's my experience, my efforts and my mistakes. I'll keep posting videos. Have a great week!
Hello and thanks for the comment. Believe it or not, I always use stainless steel...even though every application, does indeed eventually rust and show corrosion. At least in Florida, where I live. I have rust on bumpers and underneath the body. I work constantly to remove it, sand it, etc. It's a nightmare. :(
Actually, same thing happened with OVS rooftop tent I purchased. Their hardware was horrible and rusted and corroded within a month. Spent $130 on new nuts, bolts and washers that were stainless steel and after my trip to Colorado, all those were rusted and corroded. Drives me crazy...
@@thetrailaheadofus nope… but I figured it out. The drag link *flip kit* is what requires drilling out the knuckle. Now my link is inserted from the top, not bottom, keeping it more parallel to the track bar after having lifted it 4.5”… with no drop pitman arm. But yeah to flip it you have to drill out the knuckle. Felt like another “point of no return; full commit” step on my all-Metalcloak project, but working out well so far. lol
next time use the pickle fork when the nut wont come off. The insertion of the pickle fork will cause the joint to tighten and then perhaps the nut would have come off.
Happy Thanksgiving and thank you for the advice. I'm going to look into that for future reference. The bolt was almost completely stripped when I finally pulled it off. Not sure how it even stayed in place, all this time. Thanks again. @@bobkeyes1152
I always worry about that and make sure that when I do any of this work, I torque to specs. I truly believe it's Florida's humidity and the salt air where I live. It's difficult to see in the video, but that TF bolt was stripped and rusted, badly. I agree, the TF does look thicker. If the end joints weren't loose and failing, I would have stuck with the TF. I'm still happy I switched though. I'm hopeful the gold-zinc coating will help with the salt air here. Thanks for reaching out. ✌
Mind if I ask why they wouldn't warranty the part(s)? They make a few products I have been considering but if their warranty isn't equal to others then they lost my interest.
Of course not. They told me that because the parts had "wear and tear" signs and that they were not sure how I was using them, that they wouldn't warranty the parts. I'm having the same exact response with their Delta Brake Kit I purchased two months ago. Which isn't cheap. I went on the Ophir Pass road trip and the brakes failed several times. We couldn't do the rest of the trails I was hoping to do while out there. The pads crystalized and the front rotors warped. But they said because of being "over-used" we can't warranty the parts. I mean, they promote all this off-road use in their own videos, how on earth did I overuse them on a paved road trip... I have been slowly switching to all TeraFlex parts and now I'm in a corner because it's absolutely crazy and wrong they are choosing not to take care of a customer. Hope this helps, thanks for reaching out.
this is why anti seize is shouldn't be used. more then likely it got globed on and what happens is too much lube or sealant will stretch the threads as you are tightening. only stuff I recommend is copper tone anti seize but only do half the bolt not all the way around. even half is a lot
@@camarofix thank you for the feedback. I personally am always concerned I don’t use enough when it comes to recommended lubes for the bolts. I don’t feel I over-lubed but at this point who knows. I still feel strongly that Florida humidity and the salt air where I live wreak havoc. I have this issue in several locations on my Jeep. It’s a constant battle. 😒
Nice job buddy! I just dropped my video on the same upgrade on my 2011 JK. I have another video on the way - installing the control arms! Woo Hoo. Come check it out. I think we are similar in our approach and trying to grow the channel. You got yourself a new subscriber here.
Thank you, much appreciated. Learning a little more each time I I get in there. Glad to hear a similar story. And yes, building my channel one great person at a time. I’ll check yours out. Have a great weekend.
I'm sure it's bad there. I wasn't comparing to anywhere else, just sharing what I was experiencing, living near the coast in Florida. I've noticed a huge difference since moving here.
Installing parts can be overwhelming. At least for me. I do my best and learn as I go. Take a moment and check out my video on the Falcon Nexus 2.2 Steering Stablizer.
ruclips.net/video/27hkGGlYn40/видео.html
Try an allen wrench to hold it next time
@@jefferyhuneycutt9786 Thank you, much appreciated.
I’m pretty sure that you didn’t have cut that nut like that. That tie rod has a ball joint end on it. You simply just needed to put a allen wrench on the top of the ball joint stud and use an open end wrench on the nut you cut off.🤔🤦🏼♂️
Well, that’s good to know. Everything I do, I’m learning as I go. Most things, I’m researching for days before I finally try. Thanks for the advice!
@@thetrailaheadofus you can also usually put a floor jack with a block of wood under the tie rod end and jack the wood up against the tie rod end until it has a lot of pressure on it. That will force the taper of the stud up tight enough that you can back the nut off without spinning the stud.
@@wvjeepguy8178 thank you for this. This is why this community is so amazing. I’m on here trying to figure this stuff out as I go and you guys offer suggestions on what I could have done or could do. I know just enough to get into trouble you know…. Thanks for the feedback. I really do appreciate it.
Was it not cheaper just to get new ball joints rather than a whole new system?
Sam thing happened to me, Long Island, NY, road salt AND Salty Air, I had cut mine through the actual tie rod end itself, on the drag link, the Allan head on the bolt was so encrusted with rust.
Is it me or isn’t there a spot for an Allen key to use with a wrench? I’m not familiar enough with teraflex😮
Everything was so rusted and corroded. That TeraFlex unit didn’t make it one year here in Florida.
I used to think Teraflex was the best. I was wrong. Metalcloack by far has superior products and research to back it up. Good for you. You will be much happier.
I’m learning that the hard way. I’ve also already started installing other TeraFlex parts and I can’t return things. Hopefully their Falcon 3.3 suspension is better than their tie-rod and drag link. 👍🏻
If you still have the Teraflex drag link, there is a way to adjust the ends. May be interesting to you to try this. You need the tool that came with the drag link. It goes on a 3/8" rachet and has 4 prongs sticking out. On the joints you will see four allen heads. Two are set screws so keep track of which is where when you remove them. Then use the tool to gently turn the joint watching thru one of the set screw holes till you see the next hole the set screw can go in. Then put all the allen head screws back in and grease the joints. On mine, I could only go tighter on one. The other would only turn part way to the next hole for the set screw, and you dont want to force these.
Thank you. Much appreciated. I’ll have to take a look and see what you are referring to. Thanks again!!
Terraflex joints you can set the play as the joints wear. I thought my joints were shot. I got the tool and adjusted the preload of all 4 steering joints. Noise and play are gone! Metal cloak joints are the same flop design but not serviceable. You have to replace. But they did metal cloak and terraflex both have awesome customer service.
Thanks for the info. It was a mess for sure. A lot I wasn't aware of and had to work through. The pictures didn't do justice for how bad the threads were. Just totally gone. But I see your point. Hopefully, no issues moving forward.
@@thetrailaheadofus yeah man 👍 my metal cloaks arms wore out in 2 years. They sent my new tie rod ends no problem, but I got a terraflex set for free and found the alignment was easier to set and the joints are adjustable and replaceable (snap ring) so I keep a extra joint in case I bust one in the trail. The metal itself is forged and feels heavier then the metal cloak. I’m happy with both. And both companies helped me out with parts without charging.
@@WolfOverland Damn, two years? I guess a lot of depends on use. I live in Florida so use is light even on our Fire roads. Different story when I'm overlanding in the mountains. I was and still am, a huge fan of TeraFlex. I think I like the Gold Zinc on the MC just b/c I live in Florida with so much humidity and salt air. They seem to be holding up so far. But then again, I'm washing the undercarriage, regularly. lol
Looks good! Thanks for running Metalcloak parts!
Thank you Mike, I really do appreciate the comment. I hope the install video did your products justice. Looking forward to installing more parts from MetalCloak.
You don’t strip threads taking a nut off Either cross threading it or overnighting Put down the impact get a torque wrench
Just for some back-story here, the TeraFlex Drag Link and Tie-rod were installed by a shop.
I have a 2012 JK with MC 3.5 Gamechanger and the MC steering kit. No issues so far even after doing the Rubicon Trail twice. You should be happy!
That’s good news. I’m excited for this upgrade. MetalCloak is solid.
Teraflex was awesome on answering questions, advice on products and insuring the reliability of products to me. I even waited for a certain product to be, "revamped" before purchasing it per a TF reps advice. When that long awaited product failed, I thought no problem, yeah right. I was completely ghosted and blown off. That ended any more TF products going on my Jeeps.
I felt so bad for you when I saw you start cutting and doing all that extra work, I kept hoping you would see where the Allen key went. We all have to learn somehow I guess.
Thank you for commenting. Along with a few others, your comments truly help me. I've not hidden that I'm not a mechanic by any means and I majorly struggle with some of these installs. I can only hope, I learn from it and from your comments. It's unfortunate the support wasn't there for you and eventually for this. I have several other products from TF and they have been great, no-issue products. It's interesting you mentioned the Allen key...I did notice and meant to comment in the video about it. The surface was so rusted, I couldn't get the Allen key to fit properly. Every time I put any torque on it, it slipped out. There was no solid grip. Thanks again and take care.
@@thetrailaheadofus hopefully you never run into the same issue again, but another trick is a pickle fork with ample downward force while turning the nut.
Some of the Jeep forums and local FB groups are very helpful also. But keep up the not being afraid of learning and doing it yourself.
@@sherifx5122 thank you. Much appreciated.
Hey everyone, they make a "nut cracker" for this. Craftsman makes them, among others and it can be had at lowes. I have one. Haven't needed it, yet. lol. but it goes around the nut, then it has a blade that will cut into the nut as you turn the outside bolt. They are not expensive either.
Good to know. Thanks for the intel. This one definitely woke me up to a few things.
Interesting. I usually try the chisel first and the seems to get most nuts off in inexperience
So how do you like the parts now performing well ?
NO complaints. The only thing I'll say is, I live in Florida and I knew the salt air and humidity would play a factor. The Gold Zinc has faded a bit, but I guess that's to be expected? Not sure, but they've held up well and still look great.
@@thetrailaheadofus So you can adjust them on the jeep with out removing ?
@@dunnoyolo2238 You can adjust the end nuts a bit to make sure your spacing is correct from driver side tire to passenger. And adjust the steering knuckle as needed.
I have the MC track bar, front and rear, and the Rocksport Steering damper (MC), but have Moog tie rod and drag link, which will be “cloaked” when they fail.
How do you like the Moog? I’ve heard mostly good things.
@@thetrailaheadofus the only issue was the drag link adjustment sleeve was faulty, the last 1.5” or so was not threaded properly (burred/flattened), so I could not adjust it (pitman side tie rod end) properly, stopped when I needed another 1” of adjusting my steering wheel. I ended up using the one from the Mopar unit I replaced, and they would not let me send that part back alone for a replacement, all or nothing, so I just said forget it and kept the Mopar sleeve on, works perfectly, just an issue with Moog’s Quality assurance process. It’s literally a $20 part, but they should make it easier to replace a faulty part. Other than that, a decent tie rod and track bar.
@@TheSchmed Ya, I totally understand. It bothers me when an industry that’s skyrocketed recently due to how popular overlanding has become, that companies are still being like this. I’m glad you worked it out though..
Did you stick with the Teraflex stabilizer mount? I'm about to pull the trigger on new steering setup from MC for their Labor Day sales, but I'm keeping my Falcon TS Stabilizer. I'm a little confused on how to mount this.
Yes, I wanted to keep the TF stabilizer factory, including mount and thankfully, it fit perfectly.
@@thetrailaheadofus good to know, thank you. I have the axle mounted style and purchased the tie rod mount to switch it out. I also got front and rear MC end links, MC track bar, tie rod and drag link. Should make for a busy weekend 👍🏻
@@camaroboi13 def a busy weekend but a good one. They do make the larger mount for the stabilizer as well. MetalCloak that is. Just in case…
@@thetrailaheadofusI saw tyat too but I also heard love of people preferred the TF mount over the MC mount. I got the TF mount on Amazon so if there’s any issues I can return it.
Did you notice any difference when it came to steering with the new drag link? I have a JLUR and I have replaced almost all OEM steering component except for the drag link and even when aligned the steering feels kinda weak at times.
Hello, thanks for reaching out. I've struggled with steering since upgrading to the lift and tire. While I try and do one upgrade at a time so that I can see what differences it makes, in this case, I swapped the drag-link and tie-road out at same time. My JKU didn't pull as much afterward. However with my suspension, springs and rear track bar swap, is when I noticed a huge difference in steering. None of this stuff is cheap and while in my case, the drag-link alone didn't make huge differences, I felt more comfortable knowing I had done that particular upgrade. Hope this helps in some way. Let me know. Have a great day.
How does it compare to Steer Smarts?
Hello Shane. I haven’t had any experience with the SteerSmarts products. I’ve heard good things, but can’t give an opinion on this. Maybe someone else can. I don’t think any of these brands are bad or not beefy enough. I had liked the TF (and still do with most of their products) and based on some feedback from friends, decided to go with MetalCloak products. And I can’t complain about any MC component that I’ve installed so far. Hopefully, someone can speak to the SteerSmarts. ✌
@@thetrailaheadofus people push the TF stuff, but to me, they are only slight improvements over stock. Would not touch them.
@@shanec.7105 I understand. I do think their Adjustable shocks are great. I’ve loved them since install. But, like I mentioned, I’ve been super happy with all the MetalCloak products I have.
Yes you are right. People like this guy should not be making repair videos. He doesn't even know how a ball joint works. Try using an Allen wrench in the top of the ball joint!
Thank you for the comment. Being "this guy" I actually do know what ball joints are for and how they work. As I stated in the video and in previous comments, what I experienced wasn't something I had seen or dealt with and was very honest about not knowing how to resolve it. The shop I work with also mentioned not seeing this before. Oh well, things happen and in every video I post, I make it clear I'm learning these things as I go. It's my experience, my efforts and my mistakes. I'll keep posting videos. Have a great week!
Not so much for the ball joint but, anytime you add hardware, try to use Stainless Steel. Costs more but isn't affected by the humidity or salty air.
Hello and thanks for the comment. Believe it or not, I always use stainless steel...even though every application, does indeed eventually rust and show corrosion. At least in Florida, where I live. I have rust on bumpers and underneath the body. I work constantly to remove it, sand it, etc. It's a nightmare. :(
Actually, same thing happened with OVS rooftop tent I purchased. Their hardware was horrible and rusted and corroded within a month. Spent $130 on new nuts, bolts and washers that were stainless steel and after my trip to Colorado, all those were rusted and corroded. Drives me crazy...
Metalcloak drag link requires me to drill the knuckle out to 7/8”. Did you skip that part?
Are you calling the bottom hinge with provided bolt the knuckle? I mentioned in the video about it being drilled out.
@@thetrailaheadofus nope… but I figured it out. The drag link *flip kit* is what requires drilling out the knuckle. Now my link is inserted from the top, not bottom, keeping it more parallel to the track bar after having lifted it 4.5”… with no drop pitman arm.
But yeah to flip it you have to drill out the knuckle. Felt like another “point of no return; full commit” step on my all-Metalcloak project, but working out well so far. lol
Sounds like you're figuring it out. I go through the same thing often. Thankfully, you've got it. @@DrJosh2
Thank you to everyone for the continued support, as we grow the channel. I truly appreciate you guys. 👍
next time use the pickle fork when the nut wont come off. The insertion of the pickle fork will cause the joint to tighten and then perhaps the nut would have come off.
Happy Thanksgiving and thank you for the advice. I'm going to look into that for future reference. The bolt was almost completely stripped when I finally pulled it off. Not sure how it even stayed in place, all this time. Thanks again. @@bobkeyes1152
4:00, it was probably over tightened to begin with.
6:45, to be honest, the teraflex looks larger than the metalcloak.
I always worry about that and make sure that when I do any of this work, I torque to specs. I truly believe it's Florida's humidity and the salt air where I live. It's difficult to see in the video, but that TF bolt was stripped and rusted, badly. I agree, the TF does look thicker. If the end joints weren't loose and failing, I would have stuck with the TF. I'm still happy I switched though. I'm hopeful the gold-zinc coating will help with the salt air here. Thanks for reaching out. ✌
Nut splitter man
Mind if I ask why they wouldn't warranty the part(s)?
They make a few products I have been considering but if their warranty isn't equal to others then they lost my interest.
Of course not. They told me that because the parts had "wear and tear" signs and that they were not sure how I was using them, that they wouldn't warranty the parts. I'm having the same exact response with their Delta Brake Kit I purchased two months ago. Which isn't cheap. I went on the Ophir Pass road trip and the brakes failed several times. We couldn't do the rest of the trails I was hoping to do while out there. The pads crystalized and the front rotors warped. But they said because of being "over-used" we can't warranty the parts. I mean, they promote all this off-road use in their own videos, how on earth did I overuse them on a paved road trip... I have been slowly switching to all TeraFlex parts and now I'm in a corner because it's absolutely crazy and wrong they are choosing not to take care of a customer. Hope this helps, thanks for reaching out.
this is why anti seize is shouldn't be used. more then likely it got globed on and what happens is too much lube or sealant will stretch the threads as you are tightening. only stuff I recommend is copper tone anti seize but only do half the bolt not all the way around. even half is a lot
@@camarofix thank you for the feedback. I personally am always concerned I don’t use enough when it comes to recommended lubes for the bolts. I don’t feel I over-lubed but at this point who knows. I still feel strongly that Florida humidity and the salt air where I live wreak havoc. I have this issue in several locations on my Jeep. It’s a constant battle. 😒
Alignment is easy.
Man Florida is brutal on parts, just slather up that anti seize on everything and maybe paint everything else.
Yes indeed it is.. lol
🤙
Nice job buddy! I just dropped my video on the same upgrade on my 2011 JK. I have another video on the way - installing the control arms! Woo Hoo. Come check it out. I think we are similar in our approach and trying to grow the channel. You got yourself a new subscriber here.
Thank you, much appreciated. Learning a little more each time I I get in there. Glad to hear a similar story. And yes, building my channel one great person at a time. I’ll check yours out. Have a great weekend.
I think it’s funny you think that’s rusty, try living up north
I'm sure it's bad there. I wasn't comparing to anywhere else, just sharing what I was experiencing, living near the coast in Florida. I've noticed a huge difference since moving here.
😂
?