Hi, I bought this little printer 4 years ago, and love this small fellow. I use the original epoxy-glass fiber bed, but always with 3D Lack, and nothing falls off ever again.
Always just have some gluesticks to make it more forgiving in terms of adhesion, flexes off and washes off easily between prints. I should work on printing some more upgrades for this old printer of mine since it has proved to work good so far, but could use some upgrades and tweaks. Definitely want to make one of those bases for the electronics but those are quite a few days of printing...
As my first printer, I do not have the problems most have. Like when you assemble the X Axis Gantry, use some thick string and very tightly wrap it around the bearing axles and push them in a bit further and tighten up the screws. When you put the X Axis gantry back on the Z Axis, it should be tight and the wobble should be gone. It needs a few minor tweaks, and adjust the X/Y/Z/E and it will be spot on. It is not an easy printer, but once you get it going right, it will be a great printer for its size and its price.
Scored this kit a week ago for $100, threw it together and it just worked. To my disbelief. I thought it would end up in a spare parts box. I also grabbed a 4 pack of 30mm brushless fans with 3ft cables for $12, and printed a filiment holder off of thingiverse in PLA on my Kingroon k3ps. My only complaint is lack of 1st layer adhesion with non heated bed/bed material. I have a spring steel PEI coated build surface on the way and my hopes are high. I have the same exact bed sized in 180mm on my k3ps and it has been the best upgrade so far.
Thanks for the great video. I have one for a couple of years and I love it. I set it aside after I got my ender3, now I want to put it back to work, Im working on a heated bed upgrade for it right now. I wonder if I can add a BLtouch to the X1? could you give directions on how to hook up the bl touch on this board, if that's possible at all? Thanks again.
Retraction is what you should be playing with. Try a simple retraction test print from Thingiverse and up this value bit by bit until you find your ideal.
Great video mate, I bought this printer a few weeks ago and am having a lot of trouble with the Z motor binding. Do you have the link for the power cord from Jay car?
@@balinthorvath9200 When you get it let us know if its ant good I'm thinking about getting one to use while the ender 3 is busy with the long prints I tend to do.
Teaching Tech yes but does the brick take 120 or 240 or does the brick not care. Plugging in a different cable is no big deal but that is not the question I have
Teaching Tech cool thanks for checking. Last night I was looking at the different bricks in my house. Seems the laptop ones were the same as the Tronxy with a wide range voltage but the game system ones were specific voltage.
I bought some filament once that came with a free sample of Buildtak of this printers size, I cant remember the name of the filament, though I think it did begin with O
I bought an Ender-2 for €120,- on Aliexpress. I printed mods from Thingreverse. I must say it prints great. It has a heated bed. I flashed it with Marlin 1.1.8. I print with PETG and PLA on a glass plate ( 4 mm ). It sticks very good. Maybe you can do a review?
with coupons you can get an ender-2 cheap on aliexpress..maybe you get one free if you contact creality for a review? Or review an ender-x or a ender-20 ( brand new ones ) ? Personally I like the quality of the ender-2. Almost every is builded of aluminum. And If I must be honest, with the right mods the quality is almost the same as a prusia. But that is my opinion
You should check out Creality Ender 2. Same design 3D Printer with Heated Bed. The best printer you can get for $170-180. I am currently doing a Tutorial For Noobs on my Channel and using the same Printer and the print quality is just amazing. It is my First Ever 3D Printer.
You could do a raspberry pi ruining octoprint or you could get a ribbon cable SD card extender and glue or mount it to the side or front and it will keep the SD card reader on the board in the best condition since you aren’t removing and reinserting an SD and wearing out the contacts and dunces its so cheap who knows how long it will last
Just two links for the SD card extender and a micro extended too www.adafruit.com/product/3687?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl7nYBRCwARIsAL7O7dFltCAJONw87rrpPpb8R4LFyFWiMeVQofhEhdwh56NGN4WZ7j0SZpIaAsheEALw_wcB www.adafruit.com/product/3688?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl7nYBRCwARIsAL7O7dHaasALCfmmerkVqMJM2CO77Vx0K1WeKwcpooEYYNVKIbneHcxeTwcaAjHQEALw_wcB
I am happy to tell you your review has told me this isn't the one I want. I know this as there's too much to remember to do before each use. But I kinda figured on spending about $1500.00 to $2500.00 on my 1st 3D printer. I much prefer the printer remembers to check, calibrate, level and whatever else should be done prior to printing. Also from watching I've decided on a heated bed and a magnetic flexible removable build plate...i dont remember if anti static was thrown in there or not. It must be able to use multiple materials including very flexible materials for making moulds which won't get soft, melt or deform when liquids between 135°F to 170°F are poured in to them and are thin enough to peel off. rinse turn right side out again and reuse. Thanks. I know once a couple choices for an item has been chosen many of the others just fall into place. Hopefully soon I'll have "all the boxes checked" and be able to narrow the field down to a few and then ask several people which and why do you think best for what want to do it. Maybe I'll see some of those forums now and see what they say.
Funny you mention the adhesive paper. When I bought my A8 it took about 4-5 hours to put together at a leisurely pace. 1 of those hours was spent peeling and what a pain in the ass.
Neat little printer - would be a good experimentation platform with a different extruder for small test prints. Also, just FYI that particular model of baby groot waving has a bug in the right arm with that gap, if you review your slice in a gcode viewer you'll see the gap. No one can post a fix because the owner of the model disallowed remixing. Keep the videos coming, I like your format. Could you drill a hole in the back plate of the screen box and move the wires to that hole to get the wires out of the way of the sd slot? PS: My anxiety was high looking at that top piece above the screen being backwards LOL. YXNORT
Thanks for the great comment. I have my Mk3 workhorse, my dedicated flexibles Cocoon Create Touch, and now I'm wondering whether having a dedicated small printer with a 0.2 nozzle would be a good idea just for tiny, detailed prints. Slic3r reported STL issues but I plowed on ahead regardless. The model had the arm issue and one at the neck too. I like the big box mod but it doesn't hold the electronics inside. I would design my own version but the printer was donated to the primary school today. Didn't notice the backwards lettering!
If you want to use a nozzle with a diameter lower than 0.4 I recommend use a gearded extruder. Works fine with a 0.2 but the printing time is very looooooong.
I have both. And very suprising is that, other than lifting (because x1 have no heated bed) x1 actually print better, is more accurate, and handles tolerances better. Obviusly after some printed upgrades (mainly tighteners for those wheels and a part fan cooling) for both printers, I even use some of the same upgrades fot both of them. But quality wise ender 3 is not as good as tronxy
Use PETG. works with no mods. All you need for it to stick is hairspray on the bed. It is awesome. I bought one just for fun and it its great. PLA sucks, PETG its great. I run my with 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4 layer height, just because i am a inpatient old man. But it is now the little printer i like, some-days more then my expensive big ones.
i just learned a trick to get them to stick to the glass, use hairspray or a gluestick although the glue stick is kinda messy and you have to clean the glass everytime afterwards, so you may want to try that see if it does better and do a follow up on that. i learned it from this video here: ruclips.net/video/Sqh3FM12KVg/видео.html
I've got the $350 Jaycar one with the same frame design. It has a sloppy construction, especially the z axis. Very hard to get repeatable first layer height. This is way better.
from the start you have 0 zero experience or knowledge of how to assemble anything just dump all the parts out and go from there ...if you worked for me you would be out the door.
thanks for this amazing review, no stupid pumping music, no cursing and above all honest. cheers from the UK. just off to pick one up.
Hi, I bought this little printer 4 years ago, and love this small fellow. I use the original epoxy-glass fiber bed, but always with 3D Lack, and nothing falls off ever again.
Always just have some gluesticks to make it more forgiving in terms of adhesion, flexes off and washes off easily between prints. I should work on printing some more upgrades for this old printer of mine since it has proved to work good so far, but could use some upgrades and tweaks. Definitely want to make one of those bases for the electronics but those are quite a few days of printing...
As my first printer, I do not have the problems most have. Like when you assemble the X Axis Gantry, use some thick string and very tightly wrap it around the bearing axles and push them in a bit further and tighten up the screws. When you put the X Axis gantry back on the Z Axis, it should be tight and the wobble should be gone.
It needs a few minor tweaks, and adjust the X/Y/Z/E and it will be spot on. It is not an easy printer, but once you get it going right, it will be a great printer for its size and its price.
Great tips, thanks for sharing.
thanks for the slic3r profile! that saved me a ton of time!
Scored this kit a week ago for $100, threw it together and it just worked. To my disbelief. I thought it would end up in a spare parts box. I also grabbed a 4 pack of 30mm brushless fans with 3ft cables for $12, and printed a filiment holder off of thingiverse in PLA on my Kingroon k3ps. My only complaint is lack of 1st layer adhesion with non heated bed/bed material. I have a spring steel PEI coated build surface on the way and my hopes are high. I have the same exact bed sized in 180mm on my k3ps and it has been the best upgrade so far.
there is a cheaper one:
Easythreed X1
see which one is the best in the budget market
This is better linus did a review on that.
See this is why I like you u donated that printer to a school that's so nice most youtubers just hord there review samples
Thanks for the great video. I have one for a couple of years and I love it. I set it aside after I got my ender3, now I want to put it back to work, Im working on a heated bed upgrade for it right now. I wonder if I can add a BLtouch to the X1? could you give directions on how to hook up the bl touch on this board, if that's possible at all? Thanks again.
Very professional presentation; keep up the good work.
looks like a easy addon to improve the rigidity is to add a bearing to the lead screw on top and attach it at where the handle attaches.
Adam A no. you dont want to do it. It will bind and add NOTHING to rigidity
I just bought this a s my first printer. I am 15 and i get the stringing too. What settings do i change in the slicer?
Retraction is what you should be playing with. Try a simple retraction test print from Thingiverse and up this value bit by bit until you find your ideal.
Hello, could you please show your slicer profile for this printer and where you mounted the bed stopper switch. Thanks :)
Quality review and well presented. Keep up the good work.
I wonder if you can upgrade this model... With Creality parts...
Great video mate, I bought this printer a few weeks ago and am having a lot of trouble with the Z motor binding. Do you have the link for the power cord from Jay car?
Sorry to hear about the z motor. Perhaps double check alignment? Jaycar link: www.jaycar.com.au/3-outlet-iec-mains-cable/p/PS4103
Have you checked your motor current? IDK if this will help but you can try it. Also try lubricating it.
Tronxy X1 can be had for less than $100 now.
Yeah i just ordered mine for 100 dollar and free shipping.
@@balinthorvath9200 When you get it let us know if its ant good I'm thinking about getting one to use while the ender 3 is busy with the long prints I tend to do.
is there ayway to use abs filament with this bad boy?
Wow!! Love your content 🙌
Thanks for watching :)
Gb special is with the EU plug. Could you swap out just the cord to use it in the USA or would you need another power supply?
Mains cable into power supply is separate so easy to swap. They will probably include a plug adaptor.
Teaching Tech yes but does the brick take 120 or 240 or does the brick not care. Plugging in a different cable is no big deal but that is not the question I have
Hi Ryan, Just chekd today and the brick takes 100-240 V AC. Cable switch is all you need.
Teaching Tech cool thanks for checking. Last night I was looking at the different bricks in my house. Seems the laptop ones were the same as the Tronxy with a wide range voltage but the game system ones were specific voltage.
There is a switch on the side of the power supply that you can switch 240 and 120v all you need is a new power cord and switch the switch
what os the torque for the wheels???
I bought some filament once that came with a free sample of Buildtak of this printers size, I cant remember the name of the filament, though I think it did begin with O
I bought an Ender-2 for €120,- on Aliexpress. I printed mods from Thingreverse. I must say it prints great. It has a heated bed. I flashed it with Marlin 1.1.8. I print with PETG and PLA on a glass plate ( 4 mm ). It sticks very good. Maybe you can do a review?
Would love to review one. I'm all about finding bargains.
with coupons you can get an ender-2 cheap on aliexpress..maybe you get one free if you contact creality for a review? Or review an ender-x or a ender-20 ( brand new ones ) ?
Personally I like the quality of the ender-2. Almost every is builded of aluminum. And If I must be honest, with the right mods the quality is almost the same as a prusia. But that is my opinion
what kind of power suply ?
What is the max print speed? In layers
I've never heard of max print speed being measured in layers. My slic3r profile is in the description, it has the speed I used.
Nice Review Michael, Nice bargain Keep it up
You should check out Creality Ender 2. Same design 3D Printer with Heated Bed. The best printer you can get for $170-180. I am currently doing a Tutorial For Noobs on my Channel and using the same Printer and the print quality is just amazing. It is my First Ever 3D Printer.
Very keen to try this printer i the opportunity presents. Heard a lot of positive comments about this.
use 120 grit sandpaper on that garolite and it will help holding parts
how and in what program did you created a design of printed component?
thanks for answer
You could do a raspberry pi ruining octoprint or you could get a ribbon cable SD card extender and glue or mount it to the side or front and it will keep the SD card reader on the board in the best condition since you aren’t removing and reinserting an SD and wearing out the contacts and dunces its so cheap who knows how long it will last
Both excellent suggestions.
I agree..with a micro sd card it is &*$&$(&( to put it in such a slot ( I have an ender-2 with the same slot ).
Just two links for the SD card extender and a micro extended too
www.adafruit.com/product/3687?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl7nYBRCwARIsAL7O7dFltCAJONw87rrpPpb8R4LFyFWiMeVQofhEhdwh56NGN4WZ7j0SZpIaAsheEALw_wcB
www.adafruit.com/product/3688?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl7nYBRCwARIsAL7O7dHaasALCfmmerkVqMJM2CO77Vx0K1WeKwcpooEYYNVKIbneHcxeTwcaAjHQEALw_wcB
I am happy to tell you your review has told me this isn't the one I want. I know this as there's too much to remember to do before each use. But I kinda figured on spending about $1500.00 to $2500.00 on my 1st 3D printer. I much prefer the printer remembers to check, calibrate, level and whatever else should be done prior to printing. Also from watching I've decided on a heated bed and a magnetic flexible removable build plate...i dont remember if anti static was thrown in there or not. It must be able to use multiple materials including very flexible materials for making moulds which won't get soft, melt or deform when liquids between 135°F to 170°F are poured in to them and are thin enough to peel off. rinse turn right side out again and reuse.
Thanks. I know once a couple choices for an item has been chosen many of the others just fall into place.
Hopefully soon I'll have "all the boxes checked" and be able to narrow the field down to a few and then ask several people which and why do you think best for what want to do it. Maybe I'll see some of those forums now and see what they say.
Funny you mention the adhesive paper. When I bought my A8 it took about 4-5 hours to put together at a leisurely pace. 1 of those hours was spent peeling and what a pain in the ass.
Neat little printer - would be a good experimentation platform with a different extruder for small test prints.
Also, just FYI that particular model of baby groot waving has a bug in the right arm with that gap, if you review your slice in a gcode viewer you'll see the gap. No one can post a fix because the owner of the model disallowed remixing.
Keep the videos coming, I like your format. Could you drill a hole in the back plate of the screen box and move the wires to that hole to get the wires out of the way of the sd slot?
PS: My anxiety was high looking at that top piece above the screen being backwards LOL. YXNORT
Thanks for the great comment. I have my Mk3 workhorse, my dedicated flexibles Cocoon Create Touch, and now I'm wondering whether having a dedicated small printer with a 0.2 nozzle would be a good idea just for tiny, detailed prints. Slic3r reported STL issues but I plowed on ahead regardless. The model had the arm issue and one at the neck too. I like the big box mod but it doesn't hold the electronics inside. I would design my own version but the printer was donated to the primary school today. Didn't notice the backwards lettering!
If you want to use a nozzle with a diameter lower than 0.4 I recommend use a gearded extruder. Works fine with a 0.2 but the printing time is very looooooong.
how many volts? 220V? 110V?
I don't have the printer anymore but I think the power switches automatically for either.
The printer is nice, but I can't help but to compare it to the ender 3, which costs $189. Does
Have one on the way to review.
I have both.
And very suprising is that, other than lifting (because x1 have no heated bed) x1 actually print better, is more accurate, and handles tolerances better.
Obviusly after some printed upgrades (mainly tighteners for those wheels and a part fan cooling) for both printers, I even use some of the same upgrades fot both of them.
But quality wise ender 3 is not as good as tronxy
Use PETG. works with no mods. All you need for it to stick is hairspray
on the bed. It is awesome. I bought one just for fun and it its great.
PLA sucks, PETG its great. I run my with 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4 layer
height, just because i am a inpatient old man. But it is now the little
printer i like, some-days more then my expensive big ones.
My Tronxy X1 can't print file STL...only GCode...how to setting for my Tronxy X1... Please..
You need to use slicing software, the same as any 3D printer. See here for an overview: ruclips.net/video/gnJQhhlsOoY/видео.html
how to connect printer to my computer?
I was so confused what those paper clips were for, lol.
Thanks for sharing, Nice :-)
It looks like a good printer but for about $60 more you can get and Ender 3 that has a heated bed and much more build volume
And with the upgrades such as a fan you're spending another 30 dollars and still don't get a heated bed
Two years later and this printer nearly doubled in price.
After mods a basic Ender 3 is a better buy IMO
"For this I am using carbon fiber - because I can." =|B-3
The stuff is surprising cheap in thisform.
not that much actually. I have that printer for 2 years, great mashine
i just learned a trick to get them to stick to the glass, use hairspray or a gluestick although the glue stick is kinda messy and you have to clean the glass everytime afterwards, so you may want to try that see if it does better and do a follow up on that. i learned it from this video here: ruclips.net/video/Sqh3FM12KVg/видео.html
People. Just get a Monoprice Delta Mini for a little more.
11:32 That X belt is not even in a straight line across, what a design flaw
Amazing review just please do not cus
Knowing Gearbest, it will probably be on sale for $99 in the summer.
$179 in 2022.
Let me just put this SD card from China in my computer. What's there to worry about?
almost the same as they shitty Jaycar version!
I've got the $350 Jaycar one with the same frame design. It has a sloppy construction, especially the z axis. Very hard to get repeatable first layer height. This is way better.
from the start you have 0 zero experience or knowledge of how to assemble anything just dump all the parts out and go from there ...if you worked for me you would be out the door.