I got my TronXY X1 Saturday, been rather positively impressed with the print quality, even running at 80mm/s (a speed that my other 3D printers will always fail at). Thank you for the review.
seriously i bought a tronxy x1 like 4 days ago thinking "let's see what this can do". I'm so happy to see your video today with all those details! thank you for your work.
Because of this review, I got a secondhand Tronxy X1. And you know? - I fell in love with it. Some tweaks later It works like a charm. I can't stop staring at it when it's printing. It's sooo small, sooo compact, sooo uhm, Genius. Look at that drivebelt that's integrated in that aluminium frame and the wheels running on top of that, on the same alu profile... Amazing. Next step, I'll put the control box in a case under the printer, and make a spoolholder on top of the printer. Ideal for a small workspace. So: what do you have to do when you bought a Tronxy X1? - Replace the belt-tightheners with metal replacements. ( just a 5mm alu plate with some holes for the screws will do) - Tighten all the wheels to the alu rails... - Shorten the Teflon guide tube, make it as short as it can be. - Use some Teflon (PTFA) tape on the threads of the nozzle, mine leaked terribly. - Angus states the springs are kinda weak (Bowden spring, bed springs). Mine were ok. So perhaps replace them. - Make a part-cooler funnel. (small parts can be overheated and meltdown.) Some great ones can be found on Thingieverse. Some use radial fans, some small 30mm fans. I use the latest version of Ultimaker Cura, just because I'm used to. Call it lazyness. Strangely enough, when I select "Repetier" for the GCode flavor( in Cura), it doesn't work. When I select RepRap/Marlin, it works.. Strange, because the Tronxy's firmware = Repetier....??? Does anyone knows why this is???
I have a Tronxy X1 now for about a week and it's my first printer, but I haven't had any big problems with it and the print quality for a 150$ printer ist incredible!
I' built one with my 9 year old daughter and she Love's it! Now with Astroprint and a bed I designed and built my self. For better bed leveling. It's my first 3D printer and for small objects I think it's good enough in it's price range. Best regards, From Portugal
Got this printer since 2 weeks now, it's my first printer and i love it. A glass surface for the bed (my bed was not flat) and a cooling fan makes it even better. Check out the Indie i2 build from openbuilds, it's very similar and parts are compatible.
I can confirm what Angus says at the end of the video about the loose fitting bed platform. I got one and the rollers for the bed platform weren't nearly close enough together and the whole platform wobbled, but it's easily fixed with a power drill and a drill bit slowly carving away at the holes. I did that and the platform is perfect now:)
I got mine last weekend, and I'm happy with it now that it's working. But there were several screws, t-nuts missing and the holes in the acrylic were off by 5 mm at least meaning the wheels didn't fit on the rails... etc. But after a bit of drilling, soldering, scavenging for parts and filing I managed to put it together and now it works fine. Just be aware it might require more work to put it together than expected. So, lots of rough edges, but cheap and nice when finally working!
+Mårten Thornberg it sounds like someone skewed the vectors on a few batches of parts in China off the laser cutter, Preston over at press reset released files to print replacements
I ordered an Tronxy X3 and it is due in this week and I am excited to see how it does. It was only a little more than the X1 and hopefully it has all the good things from the X1 and less of the bad.
I bought the cr-10 for my first printer , it was a simple to put together printer with a heated bed and large build area. I wish that I saw the xl version as this area was even bigger, but I had been saving for an expensive american small area enclosed 3d printer for a long time when I saw the press reset, (not quite) review of the printer and realized I could buy this for less and get lots of pla with the left over cash. Do a review of that printer if you can. I was so easy to put together, which is awesome for a first timer and the extrusion aluminum is so sturdy. I'm very new to this, and I love watching your vids, along with press reset, and the 3d printing nerd. All you guys really helped me get printing, but your vids really help beginners so much with your how to tutorials. Keep up the great work and I hope your videos keep coming .
I purchased a Reprap Prusa I3 CLone earlier this year.. and i must say i'm quite impressed with it.. with a 200x200x180 build area with a heated bed.. I believe it was a very good starting printer.. only payed 150.00 US
This was the video that convinced me to both subscribe to MM and to buy a Tronxy X1. I've had it for a little while now and it's an astonishingly good little machine. Like everyone else I had a few minor issues at first but it was able to print it's own upgrades and is now the best printer I've ever personally seen in action. In fact the company I work for have asked me to bring it in to the workshop because it's far surpassing the machine they paid AUD$3K for. Not bad for a AUD$160 kit from China! One thing this video doesn't mention though is that the choice of slicer software is, as always, crucial. In this case go Cura.
I'm loving my x1. Got it for $100 shipped as a best offer on ebay, and honestly had way more fun assembling and wire managing after the build; then thought I would. I must've bought an updated model as mine has an encoder wheel instead of the older styled buttons. The hot end shroud is also powder coated blue and designed slightly differently. I printed with the included build surface, only with the aid of a gluestick. Without glue, prints would fail by the 3rd or 4th layer. I spent $15 on a PEI spring steel bed and have never dealt with glue or washing my build surface in the sink again. Just clean with ISA every 3 prints or so to remove dust and finger oils. The second upgrade was printing a 30mm fan duct, and wiring a brushless fan in. Now looking to upgrade to a 40mm fan and a better designed duct. I printed a spool holder/z-axis guide on my kingroon k3ps, and I'm running 1kg spools of pla stabily with it on the x1. Upgraded to Capricorn bowden tube due to some feed issues early on, but that was due to me not assembling the bowden setup correctly the first time.
Now that I have been using my TronXY X1 for a good while, I can say it is better than any previous 3D printer I have owned, despite the lack of a heated bed and small build volume. It has displaced any other for most applications, unless I need a larger build volume that is. Also this is the only 3D printer I have managed to get good prints in ABS out of, without a heated bed, any 3D printer having a heated bed and being advertised as capable of printing ABS that I have tried has more significant issues with ABS.
I have the tronxy x1, great printer. You have o be careful with the settings because it has no cooling fan. But you can increase the print bed size to 163x163 mm and the software will correctly print
I have one of these little printers up and running. If you have one, it has the same hotend assembly as the TronXY X3. There are several good part cooling fans on Thingiverse for the X3 that will work. There are also other add-ons, such as belt tighteners, a mount for an E3D and clones, and other little things that are all compatible.
I just brought this one a few hours before this video came up. Based on what you said on your other video about cheap printers that don't suck. Thanks.
I have the Tronxy X3 and I love it. It didn't come with a part cooling fan either but I printed all kinds of new shrouds (and the fan shroud is the same on this tronxy x1 too so should fit.) After that its a great cheap way to get a mostly aluminium extrusion printer (All the usual power supply and MOSFET upgrades still needed.)
1. Prints PETG easily too. 2. Use Octoprint instead of the SD & interface. 3. Replace the PS, it's 5A is not enough. 4. Add a part cooling fan(easy). 5. Add a stiffner for the X-axis. 6.Change the enclosure to include the box underneath the printer.
Great review and video as usual, but as an MP Mini owner (my first printer), I think I can tell you the Mini would be such a better choice. $50 more (I actually got mine for $170 from Jet.com) and you get a heated bed and no assembly at all. I went from zero to print in about 10 minutes with great results as an absolute noob. Print a couple easy mods from Thingiverse with $10-15 in parts from Amazon and it gets even better. Has been such an easy machine to use with great community support too. Can't recommend it enough. If you want a box of parts and a project to do, then maybe the Tronxy is for you, but if you just want to print and make stuff, do yourself a favor and get a Mini. You really won't regret it.
For 30$ more you can get the 3DCstar P802-MHS with heated bed, 220*220mm print space, not-that-bad microsd access, spool holder and part cooling fan on a anet (prusa) design. comparing the two it's really worth it? I think this one is hard to beat.
i'm personally considering granite pile 40x40cm for bed, which is very cheap (usually from China) and i already use in oven for bread, it's saving quite high temperature for very long time (almost a hour) and it have polished & matte surfaces
Its a great little printer. I managed to make some passable prints with ABS too, adding ABS slurry as glue. Adding a power switch is a must. I dont mind the SD card slot position that much. What i hate is those bowden tube hold screws, its a nightmare when i change filament. There is also the possibility of expanding print volume by replacing aluminium axis with longer ones, but i didnt find that really necessary yet.
Thank you so much for your channel. It inspired me to buy my first printer which is, a Tonxy X1. I had some of the issues you had and more besides. The Z axis binding, in my case, was due to that dreadful 3D printed mounting block being 5mm short in one dimension, meaning it bends the Z screw if you attach it as directed. If you put a nut as a spacer between the block and the Z post, however, all is very well. Regarding the no-stick bed, I found PVA wood glue works OK, but my print of a Raspbery Pi case still flexed up at the sides - and I don't know how to fix that. (advice welcome!). On the UI - in my case, it;'s not that the buttons need pressing really hard, it's that they need holding down longer than you'd think they need or they're not seen. I've found that remote control (using Repetiere) means my prints are greatly under-extruded. I haven't solved that one yet. But like you, I really like the printer. When you fix the problems with the kit the printer itself works very well, and it's a fantastic price point. I made a video of my build on my channel, if anyone's interested. Thanks again for your channel.
Just got mine yesterday, and spent this morning assembling it. Ran into at least 3 differences from what the video's I've seen show. First and probably the least important is that as I finished unpacking the parts I realized, there's no coil of filament. Not a major issue as everything I've seen says it's unlabeled, which means having to figure out whether it's PLA or ABS, and I've got spools of PLA to work with already. Next issue, no manual. No, I'm not referring to no printed manual, see the MicroSD card. I'm talking about there being no manual even on the MicroSD card. Fortunately I was able to pull one down from either PRESS RESET, or Patriot Contraptions, don't remember which. Assembly that others seemed to have already done. The Y carriage was not pre-assembled. I did end up having to refine the holes to get that tight enough not to wobble about anyway, so not a major issue there, but it was probably a good deal that the instructions were in the manual, even if none of the reviewers had to do that step. (One had to reassemble his as the people who pre-assembled his started with the screw head at the top rather than the bottom, saw it interfering with the construction, and re-assembled his.) One pre-planned fix was that I already had 5x10mm screws and t-nuts from another project that I used in place of the 4x10 set for the angle brackets. This prevented the problem of the screws slipping through. Mostly no major problem from there on until I got to the Z-motor mount. Also ran into the problem where it's not aligned properly. Went to grab my double-stick tape to at least mount it to the base, and in walking away from the printer the cable for that motor snagged my foot, and I ended up bending the Z-axis lead screw. I have that mostly straightened, and know how to fix it the rest of the way, later, but for the first print attempt that actually tried printing, the printer never leveled up. No other significant issues with assembly except that after I started my first print, I realized that the X axis wasn't moving properly. Turns out that I didn't go back after getting the x-axis belt tight and tighten the grub screws on the X-motor. Completed that and now I have working x and y (will test z again tomorrow.) Also along the way ran into a problem with extruding. Was concerned that it might be a problem with the extruder being clogged at the hot end, however that doesn't appear to be the issue. What I did run into though was that I couldn't pull the filament through the fitting at the extruder end. In the process of working on that issue, ended up destroying the fitting. I've got a spare in my kit somewhere, just have to dig it out, so another 5 min fix for that, but obviously not an auspicious start. Total assembly time, not including the time needed to fix what I've done wrong was about 5 hours. That might have been under 4 if the assemblies I have seen pre-assembled in the various videos, and the manual were included. I'm still going to have to make my own z-motor mount, and that's likely to be some trial and error to get right. One help in that is that I've got lots of Z space below the z-endstop limit to bring that motor up. I should be able to give the motor solid support from below once I've confirmed that the alignment is right, which should simplify what I need to do to correct the bend in the z-axis lead screw. Then on to printing parts for my new printer based on Tech2C's Hypercube. We'll see how that goes.
Oh, and I needed to tweak the bed screw holes to get the heads of the screws below the surface of the bed, so that the build plate would sit reasonably flat when clipped on. No problem with the PLA I'm using ("Inland" aka no-name $15US/kg filament) sticking to the build plate when printing.
If it's any consolation it took me about 5 hours as well. My problems included the screws slipping through the angle brackets (I added washers....then realized later they'd thrown extras into the kit), a wobbly x-beam (which I corrected later with the upgrade) and, most seriously, an extruder that was impossible to tension properly and went from either slipping to constantly skipping steps and/or shredding the filament. Turns out the idler wasn't quite sitting high enough and resulted in the extrusion clip sitting crooked and making the filament bend at weird angles as it passed through. All it needed was a tiny washer underneath to lift it up a little and everything started working perfectly.
While designing and printing a replacement for the z-axis motor mount, available now at www.thingiverse.com/thing:2618880, (just recognized that I hadn't published it earlier) I used some 3m foam tape to mount the motor to the base of the printer. One of the reasons for the part design was that I wanted to get the motor up a bit off of that surface so that I could get a little bit more z-axis range. I think my current limit is 158mm now rather than 150 (or less), which isn't much but it's better than nothing. I found that I'd left at least one of the gantry screws lose, which affected printing until I went back and re-tightened everything and found that screw. I have a Kludge in place for tensioning. I haven't had any problems with tearing up filament this way, but may need to look into the idea of putting a washer under that idler arm. The kludge I found was to print a set of dice from thing:94738, which was printed at the time that the extruder drive was slipping, so it's at least a little compressible. The 6 sider in that set provides a decent fit to improve the tension on the idler arm. Have not had a problem with it since, though I'm pretty sure it's digging into the filament a bit more than is preferred. I'm not seeing any issues in the prints. Did get all the parts of the HyperCube printed, just need to spend some time building that and such. All in good time.
Got enough xmyth funds to buy one of these as my first 3D printer! Really looking forward to it, so thanks for the advice and reviews. Spikey, aged almost 47 ;o)
Great price here - it's for 129.99 USD with coupon code: GBTRONXY1 www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_494194.html?wid=21&lkid=10781362 I hope it will be useful ruclips.net/video/YQirk6AA0HE/видео.html
I just bought it and I am amazed by the possibilities for all of my projects. So amazed that I would like to buy a bigger better one. What could you recommend in the 1000 - 1500€ range ?
I doubt you still have it but can you please share your simplify 3d settings. I have been trying to get it dialed in and would appreciate seeing all your settings. Most notably the Layer panel and the advanced panel. Speeds and temp would be great too. I know this video is 1 yr old, But i just got one of these kits and it's working pretty well! Kit arrived with plenty of spare screws and nuts, So no missing parts. It also seems some of the parts have been adjusted from what appears in the manual. Almost no wobble in the bed and all the axis fit like a glove. No issues with the z axis motor mount either. Very happy with my purchase. Only issue i seem to be getting is slight blobbing and my circles are not coming out very circle. Both belts seems to be tight enough so not sure what else could be causing it. I am going to pick up a desk fan too and hopefully that assists in removing the blobbing. Thanks heaps.
You should review the Tevo Tarantula, I have it and am very happy with it. It would be nice to see you review it so I can compare your comments and complaints. It is around $200 Us, has a heated and a larger print bed than this one.
also there is x and y adjustable tensioner (search for them on thingiverse. one is my design) and few other parts that you might actually print on it to make it work better.
Hi Angus, i also got a Tronxy X1 based on your review and i am really happy with it. However the hotend fan i running all the time with my printer. I observed that your printer isn't running always the hot end fan (for example 8:27). What did you do to engagne the fan only if it is needed? In my opinion this just extends the time for heating the hotend before a print. Thanks again for getting me into the 3d printing hobby.
there is a at least 3 oprions for fan shroud to cool off parts. 1st is my design circular cooler, and there are 2 cooler designed for x3 (works great here) one of them ises one fan other uses two. all of them uses 40 mm fan.
Hi Angus, really enjoyed this video. Do you have any comments about the Snapmaker on Kickstarter? Came across it last weekend; they seem to be going the same path as the Trinus with the modular rails (and looks ULTRA neat in my opinion). Just seeing if you're aware of it. Also, I got myself a Geeetech G2S Pro kit which I've built and have yet to get a print out of it. If I don't manage by summer you're more than welcome to have a look at it (and hack it up or something, your choice!)
Use PETG. works with no mods. All you need for it to stick is hairspray on the bed. It is awesome. I bought one just for fun and it its great. PLA sucks, PETG its great. I run my with 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4 layer height, just because i am a inpatient old man. But it is now the little printer i like, some-days more then my expensive big ones.
$150 makes a DIY from scratch printer build (for a first machine anyway) obsolete. The parts could be re-used in a scratch built bigger printer / more rigid frame or something. Definitely a good way into the game, especially for students! Thanks for this.
Hi, I've been building this V3 3D Printer for just over a year and I'm up to issue 80. the final issue to complete is 90. However, additions to this brought it to 110 issue. I've just had it built enough to finally print some small test objects. QUESTION: What do you think of the Vector3 3D Printer from Eaglemoss? I'm from Victoria Australia and as I've said, I've started this around a year ago and get 4 issues each month.
Thank you for reviewing the Tronxy😃 Also I found a newer printer called the Startt 3d printer for $99 dollars U.S. What is you opinion on the Startt also the Flsun kossel delta printer? Thank you
I bought this exact style of printer from Gearbest based on Prestons and yours reviews - I had only very few issues setting it up - the M2 bolts for holding the limiter switches were too short and I had to buy new ones, and then it all went fine - I still need to find a good place to get 608ZZ bearings near where I live (Dublin, Ireland) so I can make a good spool roller. I really love this printer and it is my very first. In this video you talked about cloud printing or something to that effect, putting it on some other thing... I didn't fully understand, could you point me in the right direction?
question, im just getting into seriously going into hardware, linux, and 3d printing, as in, im making a list in buying them and start to learn when I have something I can actually do with I love this stuff though, its just that ive never had the money to go for it, and such with no way in buying it, havent learned any of it, since this is so cheap and yet good, should I delve into this, even though I know nothing how to operate 3d printers
I've seen you mention this a few times with different printers but how loud are most 3D printers? Kinda limited on space and curious as to whether or not a 3D printer would stop me from being able to sleep.
I know the feeling with the firmware, that looks like the same firmware as what is used on the anet a8 that I have, pita... however it was cheap and working really good right now so cannot complain too much
im still using my monoprice select mini v2 and love it. how ever i would like to get a larger print volume printer in the future. any recommendations under $500?
I would love to see how to setup this printer to octo print, please do share that experience! or could someone link me to a good setup guide for octo print?
Hi Angus. I recently (yesterday lol) purchased an Anet A8. Generally speaking, i'm not having a problem with it, except for one small....umm, foible? Some prints, are not printing completely on the bed. They go off the side and "print" in thin air. My bed size is 220 x 200, and I have it set in print settings at 200 x 200 in order to try and keep it within the bed limits. The ones that DO print on the bed, I notice are not centered either. Is there something I need to do/set? Thanks, Stu.
Good video. In your experience, which is the cheapest cnc 4 axes. I want to buy one for my son as a summer project. Thanks for giving us so much information. Ruffo
Can you do a review on the Hellobeeprusa? I'm really interested in its metal frame/dual extruder and price point. Seems like a great machine (maybe a little expensive for a kit), but I can't find much info on it.
Either one you can get first really. v1 is a great printer and can easily be made even better with almost no experience at all by printing mods and some very inexpensive parts. So happy I bought a v1 as my first printer otherwise I think I'd have been really frustrated.
hi there sorry if this is a repeat question but i still can't figure out how to search comments on RUclips. you mentioned potentially upgrading this to have a heated bed could you recommend one that would allow me to print ABS and that would be compatable with this unit preferably fairly simply as I'm considering this for my first 3D printer.
Yeah the Repetier firmware printer menu is garbage. The kit I bought for $185 had a heated bed and used this firmware. I immediately got a 7" touch screen and raspberry pi to run octoprint. Way more reliable prints, interface that doesn't suck, remote stopping, fast access to stepper idle power disabling, print pausing that moves the print head out of the way, timelapse capabilities, all made it worth it. Highly recommend the official 7" capacitive touch screen with the SmartiPi enclosure. Total cost is like $130 if you don't have a Pi or micro sd card or heatsink or quality 2A power supply with an inline switch but you can run more than one printer off of it. It's definitely an investment like Simplify 3D although these days the only need I see for Simplify 3d over Cura is speed, customizable supports, and multiple processes.
Having to re-mount the SD card is probably because the SD slot has no sd-select pin. My Mendels both run repetier firmware and one will auto mount SD cards, one won't. That's because one of them has a pin in the SD slot that tells the firmware when an SD card is inserted.
Hello there! I purchased a small 3d printer FMEA FM-T06 but it does not contain user manual and I could not find anywhere how to build that printer. I see this model is similar to the one in your video. Any recommendations on how to biuld it or where to get a user manual? Thanks!
Hi Makers Muse. I am considering to gey this printer. A goal would be to upgrade its structural hardware in order to print bigger parts. It means longer beams but not keeping its cantelever shape. Is it possible to program longer coordinates , right ? Do you see any inconveniences ? Thanks a lot. js
I completely agree with the interface. My Anet A8 has the exact same interface-and it kills me every time. That being said, I was wondering as to what I should set my settings to. I wanted to increase the printer's speed from its slower 30mm/s print speed. If I change it to 50mm/s, for example, should I change any other settings?
Would anyone recommend this for making motherboard covers. Referrence: Maximus Formula IX. Looks something like that. Not gonna build a whole cover but a few parts only. Maybe a cover for the M.2 Slot and custom covers for its logo and CPU heatsinks.
I got my TronXY X1 Saturday, been rather positively impressed with the print quality, even running at 80mm/s (a speed that my other 3D printers will always fail at). Thank you for the review.
seriously i bought a tronxy x1 like 4 days ago thinking "let's see what this can do". I'm so happy to see your video today with all those details! thank you for your work.
Because of this review, I got a secondhand Tronxy X1. And you know? - I fell in love with it.
Some tweaks later It works like a charm. I can't stop staring at it when it's printing. It's sooo small, sooo compact, sooo uhm, Genius.
Look at that drivebelt that's integrated in that aluminium frame and the wheels running on top of that, on the same alu profile...
Amazing. Next step, I'll put the control box in a case under the printer, and make a spoolholder on top of the printer.
Ideal for a small workspace.
So: what do you have to do when you bought a Tronxy X1?
- Replace the belt-tightheners with metal replacements. ( just a 5mm alu plate with some holes for the screws will do)
- Tighten all the wheels to the alu rails...
- Shorten the Teflon guide tube, make it as short as it can be.
- Use some Teflon (PTFA) tape on the threads of the nozzle, mine leaked terribly.
- Angus states the springs are kinda weak (Bowden spring, bed springs). Mine were ok.
So perhaps replace them.
- Make a part-cooler funnel. (small parts can be overheated and meltdown.)
Some great ones can be found on Thingieverse. Some use radial fans, some small 30mm fans.
I use the latest version of Ultimaker Cura, just because I'm used to. Call it lazyness.
Strangely enough, when I select "Repetier" for the GCode flavor( in Cura), it doesn't work.
When I select RepRap/Marlin, it works..
Strange, because the Tronxy's firmware = Repetier....???
Does anyone knows why this is???
i love watching these to fall asleep, which is not to say they're boring, but you have a sweet voice and i have no idea what you're talking about
I have a Tronxy X1 now for about a week and it's my first printer, but I haven't had any big problems with it and the print quality for a 150$ printer ist incredible!
I' built one with my 9 year old daughter and she Love's it! Now with Astroprint and a bed I designed and built my self. For better bed leveling.
It's my first 3D printer and for small objects I think it's good enough in it's price range.
Best regards,
From Portugal
Got this printer since 2 weeks now, it's my first printer and i love it. A glass surface for the bed (my bed was not flat) and a cooling fan makes it even better. Check out the Indie i2 build from openbuilds, it's very similar and parts are compatible.
I can confirm what Angus says at the end of the video about the loose fitting bed platform. I got one and the rollers for the bed platform weren't nearly close enough together and the whole platform wobbled, but it's easily fixed with a power drill and a drill bit slowly carving away at the holes. I did that and the platform is perfect now:)
I got mine last weekend, and I'm happy with it now that it's working. But there were several screws, t-nuts missing and the holes in the acrylic were off by 5 mm at least meaning the wheels didn't fit on the rails... etc. But after a bit of drilling, soldering, scavenging for parts and filing I managed to put it together and now it works fine. Just be aware it might require more work to put it together than expected. So, lots of rough edges, but cheap and nice when finally working!
+Mårten Thornberg it sounds like someone skewed the vectors on a few batches of parts in China off the laser cutter, Preston over at press reset released files to print replacements
I ordered an Tronxy X3 and it is due in this week and I am excited to see how it does. It was only a little more than the X1 and hopefully it has all the good things from the X1 and less of the bad.
I bought the cr-10 for my first printer , it was a simple to put together printer with a heated bed and large build area. I wish that I saw the xl version as this area was even bigger, but I had been saving for an expensive american small area enclosed 3d printer for a long time when I saw the press reset, (not quite) review of the printer and realized I could buy this for less and get lots of pla with the left over cash. Do a review of that printer if you can. I was so easy to put together, which is awesome for a first timer and the extrusion aluminum is so sturdy. I'm very new to this, and I love watching your vids, along with press reset, and the 3d printing nerd. All you guys really helped me get printing, but your vids really help beginners so much with your how to tutorials. Keep up the great work and I hope your videos keep coming .
I purchased a Reprap Prusa I3 CLone earlier this year.. and i must say i'm quite impressed with it.. with a 200x200x180 build area with a heated bed.. I believe it was a very good starting printer.. only payed 150.00 US
I have one of these and im quite excited about the print quality for this price. Absolutely recommendable
This was the video that convinced me to both subscribe to MM and to buy a Tronxy X1. I've had it for a little while now and it's an astonishingly good little machine. Like everyone else I had a few minor issues at first but it was able to print it's own upgrades and is now the best printer I've ever personally seen in action. In fact the company I work for have asked me to bring it in to the workshop because it's far surpassing the machine they paid AUD$3K for. Not bad for a AUD$160 kit from China!
One thing this video doesn't mention though is that the choice of slicer software is, as always, crucial. In this case go Cura.
I'm loving my x1. Got it for $100 shipped as a best offer on ebay, and honestly had way more fun assembling and wire managing after the build; then thought I would. I must've bought an updated model as mine has an encoder wheel instead of the older styled buttons. The hot end shroud is also powder coated blue and designed slightly differently. I printed with the included build surface, only with the aid of a gluestick. Without glue, prints would fail by the 3rd or 4th layer. I spent $15 on a PEI spring steel bed and have never dealt with glue or washing my build surface in the sink again. Just clean with ISA every 3 prints or so to remove dust and finger oils. The second upgrade was printing a 30mm fan duct, and wiring a brushless fan in. Now looking to upgrade to a 40mm fan and a better designed duct. I printed a spool holder/z-axis guide on my kingroon k3ps, and I'm running 1kg spools of pla stabily with it on the x1. Upgraded to Capricorn bowden tube due to some feed issues early on, but that was due to me not assembling the bowden setup correctly the first time.
Now that I have been using my TronXY X1 for a good while, I can say it is better than any previous 3D printer I have owned, despite the lack of a heated bed and small build volume. It has displaced any other for most applications, unless I need a larger build volume that is. Also this is the only 3D printer I have managed to get good prints in ABS out of, without a heated bed, any 3D printer having a heated bed and being advertised as capable of printing ABS that I have tried has more significant issues with ABS.
I have the tronxy x1, great printer. You have o be careful with the settings because it has no cooling fan. But you can increase the print bed size to 163x163 mm and the software will correctly print
I have one of these little printers up and running. If you have one, it has the same hotend assembly as the TronXY X3. There are several good part cooling fans on Thingiverse for the X3 that will work. There are also other add-ons, such as belt tighteners, a mount for an E3D and clones, and other little things that are all compatible.
I just brought this one a few hours before this video came up. Based on what you said on your other video about cheap printers that don't suck. Thanks.
I have the Tronxy X3 and I love it. It didn't come with a part cooling fan either but I printed all kinds of new shrouds (and the fan shroud is the same on this tronxy x1 too so should fit.) After that its a great cheap way to get a mostly aluminium extrusion printer (All the usual power supply and MOSFET upgrades still needed.)
1. Prints PETG easily too. 2. Use Octoprint instead of the SD & interface. 3. Replace the PS, it's 5A is not enough. 4. Add a part cooling fan(easy). 5. Add a stiffner for the X-axis. 6.Change the enclosure to include the box underneath the printer.
Great review and video as usual, but as an MP Mini owner (my first printer), I think I can tell you the Mini would be such a better choice. $50 more (I actually got mine for $170 from Jet.com) and you get a heated bed and no assembly at all. I went from zero to print in about 10 minutes with great results as an absolute noob. Print a couple easy mods from Thingiverse with $10-15 in parts from Amazon and it gets even better. Has been such an easy machine to use with great community support too. Can't recommend it enough. If you want a box of parts and a project to do, then maybe the Tronxy is for you, but if you just want to print and make stuff, do yourself a favor and get a Mini. You really won't regret it.
For 30$ more you can get the 3DCstar P802-MHS with heated bed, 220*220mm print space, not-that-bad microsd access, spool holder and part cooling fan on a anet (prusa) design.
comparing the two it's really worth it?
I think this one is hard to beat.
But 30usd is 30usd, I got the tonxy.
you can make your own heating bed with car parts accessible in any country - the easiest is defroster metal net for car windows
Great idea.
i'm personally considering granite pile 40x40cm for bed, which is very cheap (usually from China) and i already use in oven for bread, it's saving quite high temperature for very long time (almost a hour) and it have polished & matte surfaces
for just 500$ more, you can get the prusa i3!!1!
i had no idea that the length of PTFE tube can effect the print quality. thank you for that little tasty tid bit of info.
Its a great little printer. I managed to make some passable prints with ABS too, adding ABS slurry as glue. Adding a power switch is a must. I dont mind the SD card slot position that much. What i hate is those bowden tube hold screws, its a nightmare when i change filament. There is also the possibility of expanding print volume by replacing aluminium axis with longer ones, but i didnt find that really necessary yet.
Nice work with the review, Angus! Definitely explored pros and cons like a pro -- no pun intended... Take care man!
Looks like the perfect printer to test how much I will use 3d printing! Thanks for the review!
Now we need Laser Cutters/Engravers and Spin Casting Machines.
Cheapest I have found is the Spinbox but currently only available to UK and Europe.
9:26 the fox is not there and then *poof* there it is
* Teleports behind you * "Nothing personal, kiddo"
It’s a cat
good call on cutting the 40mm of length out of the bowden tube
I have that same fan! :D $3 at the dollar store, and plugs into USB.
Thank you so much for your channel. It inspired me to buy my first printer which is, a Tonxy X1.
I had some of the issues you had and more besides.
The Z axis binding, in my case, was due to that dreadful 3D printed mounting block being 5mm short in one dimension, meaning it bends the Z screw if you attach it as directed. If you put a nut as a spacer between the block and the Z post, however, all is very well.
Regarding the no-stick bed, I found PVA wood glue works OK, but my print of a Raspbery Pi case still flexed up at the sides - and I don't know how to fix that. (advice welcome!).
On the UI - in my case, it;'s not that the buttons need pressing really hard, it's that they need holding down longer than you'd think they need or they're not seen. I've found that remote control (using Repetiere) means my prints are greatly under-extruded. I haven't solved that one yet.
But like you, I really like the printer. When you fix the problems with the kit the printer itself works very well, and it's a fantastic price point. I made a video of my build on my channel, if anyone's interested.
Thanks again for your channel.
Just bought one of these form gearbest for 143 us based on you and press reset videos I hope it's a good first 3d printer
Just got mine yesterday, and spent this morning assembling it. Ran into at least 3 differences from what the video's I've seen show. First and probably the least important is that as I finished unpacking the parts I realized, there's no coil of filament. Not a major issue as everything I've seen says it's unlabeled, which means having to figure out whether it's PLA or ABS, and I've got spools of PLA to work with already.
Next issue, no manual. No, I'm not referring to no printed manual, see the MicroSD card. I'm talking about there being no manual even on the MicroSD card. Fortunately I was able to pull one down from either PRESS RESET, or Patriot Contraptions, don't remember which.
Assembly that others seemed to have already done. The Y carriage was not pre-assembled. I did end up having to refine the holes to get that tight enough not to wobble about anyway, so not a major issue there, but it was probably a good deal that the instructions were in the manual, even if none of the reviewers had to do that step. (One had to reassemble his as the people who pre-assembled his started with the screw head at the top rather than the bottom, saw it interfering with the construction, and re-assembled his.)
One pre-planned fix was that I already had 5x10mm screws and t-nuts from another project that I used in place of the 4x10 set for the angle brackets. This prevented the problem of the screws slipping through.
Mostly no major problem from there on until I got to the Z-motor mount. Also ran into the problem where it's not aligned properly. Went to grab my double-stick tape to at least mount it to the base, and in walking away from the printer the cable for that motor snagged my foot, and I ended up bending the Z-axis lead screw. I have that mostly straightened, and know how to fix it the rest of the way, later, but for the first print attempt that actually tried printing, the printer never leveled up.
No other significant issues with assembly except that after I started my first print, I realized that the X axis wasn't moving properly. Turns out that I didn't go back after getting the x-axis belt tight and tighten the grub screws on the X-motor. Completed that and now I have working x and y (will test z again tomorrow.) Also along the way ran into a problem with extruding. Was concerned that it might be a problem with the extruder being clogged at the hot end, however that doesn't appear to be the issue. What I did run into though was that I couldn't pull the filament through the fitting at the extruder end. In the process of working on that issue, ended up destroying the fitting. I've got a spare in my kit somewhere, just have to dig it out, so another 5 min fix for that, but obviously not an auspicious start.
Total assembly time, not including the time needed to fix what I've done wrong was about 5 hours. That might have been under 4 if the assemblies I have seen pre-assembled in the various videos, and the manual were included. I'm still going to have to make my own z-motor mount, and that's likely to be some trial and error to get right. One help in that is that I've got lots of Z space below the z-endstop limit to bring that motor up. I should be able to give the motor solid support from below once I've confirmed that the alignment is right, which should simplify what I need to do to correct the bend in the z-axis lead screw.
Then on to printing parts for my new printer based on Tech2C's Hypercube. We'll see how that goes.
Oh, and I needed to tweak the bed screw holes to get the heads of the screws below the surface of the bed, so that the build plate would sit reasonably flat when clipped on.
No problem with the PLA I'm using ("Inland" aka no-name $15US/kg filament) sticking to the build plate when printing.
If it's any consolation it took me about 5 hours as well. My problems included the screws slipping through the angle brackets (I added washers....then realized later they'd thrown extras into the kit), a wobbly x-beam (which I corrected later with the upgrade) and, most seriously, an extruder that was impossible to tension properly and went from either slipping to constantly skipping steps and/or shredding the filament. Turns out the idler wasn't quite sitting high enough and resulted in the extrusion clip sitting crooked and making the filament bend at weird angles as it passed through. All it needed was a tiny washer underneath to lift it up a little and everything started working perfectly.
While designing and printing a replacement for the z-axis motor mount, available now at www.thingiverse.com/thing:2618880, (just recognized that I hadn't published it earlier) I used some 3m foam tape to mount the motor to the base of the printer. One of the reasons for the part design was that I wanted to get the motor up a bit off of that surface so that I could get a little bit more z-axis range. I think my current limit is 158mm now rather than 150 (or less), which isn't much but it's better than nothing.
I found that I'd left at least one of the gantry screws lose, which affected printing until I went back and re-tightened everything and found that screw.
I have a Kludge in place for tensioning. I haven't had any problems with tearing up filament this way, but may need to look into the idea of putting a washer under that idler arm. The kludge I found was to print a set of dice from thing:94738, which was printed at the time that the extruder drive was slipping, so it's at least a little compressible. The 6 sider in that set provides a decent fit to improve the tension on the idler arm. Have not had a problem with it since, though I'm pretty sure it's digging into the filament a bit more than is preferred. I'm not seeing any issues in the prints.
Did get all the parts of the HyperCube printed, just need to spend some time building that and such. All in good time.
Got enough xmyth funds to buy one of these as my first 3D printer!
Really looking forward to it, so thanks for the advice and reviews.
Spikey, aged almost 47 ;o)
Glad to here it man! Have a great new year.
Review anet a8
Vince Andriacco its shit get a a2
Great price here - it's for 129.99 USD with coupon code: GBTRONXY1
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_494194.html?wid=21&lkid=10781362
I hope it will be useful
ruclips.net/video/YQirk6AA0HE/видео.html
ZachAttackRandom I
Vince Andriacco yes!
I just bought it and I am amazed by the possibilities for all of my projects. So amazed that I would like to buy a bigger better one. What could you recommend in the 1000 - 1500€ range ?
Thanks for the review and info!
I doubt you still have it but can you please share your simplify 3d settings. I have been trying to get it dialed in and would appreciate seeing all your settings. Most notably the Layer panel and the advanced panel. Speeds and temp would be great too.
I know this video is 1 yr old, But i just got one of these kits and it's working pretty well! Kit arrived with plenty of spare screws and nuts, So no missing parts. It also seems some of the parts have been adjusted from what appears in the manual. Almost no wobble in the bed and all the axis fit like a glove. No issues with the z axis motor mount either. Very happy with my purchase.
Only issue i seem to be getting is slight blobbing and my circles are not coming out very circle. Both belts seems to be tight enough so not sure what else could be causing it. I am going to pick up a desk fan too and hopefully that assists in removing the blobbing.
Thanks heaps.
I just bought one from gearbest for 108 euro's. I really hope it arrives quickly, I can't wait!!
I have one of those and I love it!❤
Should I get this one or the Ender 3 as a beginner? I could get the Tronxy now, but the Ender next year. Is it worth waiting? And the extra money?
You should review the Tevo Tarantula, I have it and am very happy with it. It would be nice to see you review it so I can compare your comments and complaints. It is around $200 Us, has a heated and a larger print bed than this one.
+Jackson Whiteley I have reviewed it, be sure to read the description.
also there is x and y adjustable tensioner (search for them on thingiverse. one is my design) and few other parts that you might actually print on it to make it work better.
Hi Angus, i also got a Tronxy X1 based on your review and i am really happy with it. However the hotend fan i running all the time with my printer. I observed that your printer isn't running always the hot end fan (for example 8:27). What did you do to engagne the fan only if it is needed? In my opinion this just extends the time for heating the hotend before a print.
Thanks again for getting me into the 3d printing hobby.
I'd be interested in seeing a video on the top 3 or so 3D printers for students. Accessible price but also good build quality.
there is a at least 3 oprions for fan shroud to cool off parts. 1st is my design circular cooler, and there are 2 cooler designed for x3 (works great here) one of them ises one fan other uses two. all of them uses 40 mm fan.
Hi Angus, really enjoyed this video. Do you have any comments about the Snapmaker on Kickstarter? Came across it last weekend; they seem to be going the same path as the Trinus with the modular rails (and looks ULTRA neat in my opinion). Just seeing if you're aware of it.
Also, I got myself a Geeetech G2S Pro kit which I've built and have yet to get a print out of it. If I don't manage by summer you're more than welcome to have a look at it (and hack it up or something, your choice!)
Interesting machine! Always love a good kit.
thank you I was looking at this one but I was a little skeptical.
This might be my second printer though, as I have already decided on the MP select mini
Use PETG. works with no mods. All you need for it to stick is hairspray on the bed. It is awesome. I bought one just for fun and it its great. PLA sucks, PETG its great. I run my with 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4 layer height, just because i am a inpatient old man. But it is now the little printer i like, some-days more then my expensive big ones.
$150 makes a DIY from scratch printer build (for a first machine anyway) obsolete. The parts could be re-used in a scratch built bigger printer / more rigid frame or something. Definitely a good way into the game, especially for students! Thanks for this.
Hi,
I've been building this V3 3D Printer for just over a year and I'm up to issue 80. the final issue to complete is 90. However, additions to this brought it to 110 issue. I've just had it built enough to finally print some small test objects.
QUESTION:
What do you think of the Vector3 3D Printer from Eaglemoss?
I'm from Victoria Australia and as I've said, I've started this around a year ago and get 4 issues each month.
at first I really wanted to get the peach printer (we know how that turned out) so now I'm thinking of getting this.
What are you thinking which one is better: the Tevo Tarantula or the Tronxy X1?
Thank you for reviewing the Tronxy😃 Also I found a newer printer called the Startt 3d printer for $99 dollars U.S. What is you opinion on the Startt also the Flsun kossel delta printer? Thank you
I bought this exact style of printer from Gearbest based on Prestons and yours reviews - I had only very few issues setting it up - the M2 bolts for holding the limiter switches were too short and I had to buy new ones, and then it all went fine - I still need to find a good place to get 608ZZ bearings near where I live (Dublin, Ireland) so I can make a good spool roller.
I really love this printer and it is my very first.
In this video you talked about cloud printing or something to that effect, putting it on some other thing... I didn't fully understand, could you point me in the right direction?
Thanks for the review. Would you be reviewing the TronXY X3 as well?
09:28 magic cat!!!
M4T1J4P0 hh
question, im just getting into seriously going into hardware, linux, and 3d printing, as in, im making a list in buying them and start to learn when I have something I can actually do with
I love this stuff though, its just that ive never had the money to go for it, and such with no way in buying it, havent learned any of it, since this is so cheap and yet good, should I delve into this, even though I know nothing how to operate 3d printers
I've seen you mention this a few times with different printers but how loud are most 3D printers? Kinda limited on space and curious as to whether or not a 3D printer would stop me from being able to sleep.
I know the feeling with the firmware, that looks like the same firmware as what is used on the anet a8 that I have, pita... however it was cheap and working really good right now so cannot complain too much
im still using my monoprice select mini v2 and love it. how ever i would like to get a larger print volume printer in the future. any recommendations under $500?
I would love to see how to setup this printer to octo print, please do share that experience! or could someone link me to a good setup guide for octo print?
Hi Angus. I recently (yesterday lol) purchased an Anet A8. Generally speaking, i'm not having a problem with it, except for one small....umm, foible?
Some prints, are not printing completely on the bed. They go off the side and "print" in thin air. My bed size is 220 x 200, and I have it set in print settings at 200 x 200 in order to try and keep it within the bed limits. The ones that DO print on the bed, I notice are not centered either.
Is there something I need to do/set?
Thanks, Stu.
Good video. In your experience, which is the cheapest cnc 4 axes. I want to buy one for my son as a summer project. Thanks for giving us so much information.
Ruffo
Great review Angus.
Can you do a review on the Hellobeeprusa? I'm really interested in its metal frame/dual extruder and price point. Seems like a great machine (maybe a little expensive for a kit), but I can't find much info on it.
been using that build surface for a long time on my wanhao i3 (: works great
How would you compare it to the Tevo Tarantula?
They're a very similar build by the looks of it.
+FurredPhotography completely different experience, I updated my tarantula review to reflect the issues encountered.
Should I buy the monoprice mini v1 or wait for the v2?
i have the same question XD
I'd wait, pretty sure V1 is out of stock now anyway!
Maker's Muse It was back in stock last week for 2 days. I'm also waiting for the v2.
Either one you can get first really. v1 is a great printer and can easily be made even better with almost no experience at all by printing mods and some very inexpensive parts. So happy I bought a v1 as my first printer otherwise I think I'd have been really frustrated.
SeventeenSec Hey, I just bought the mini select. What mods did you do on it? I was looking into a few mods like glass bed and hot end replacements
Compared to marlin on a 5 button lcd I prefer repetier, just ignore the print menu and use the sd menu all the time.
Please do the Anet A8
I have one and I would like to here you word, plus some tips and tricks
hi there sorry if this is a repeat question but i still can't figure out how to search comments on RUclips. you mentioned potentially upgrading this to have a heated bed could you recommend one that would allow me to print ABS and that would be compatable with this unit preferably fairly simply as I'm considering this for my first 3D printer.
outstanding review
Can I modify a Chinese cnc 3018 3 axis to actually do 3D prints ? For example adding a extrusion head to it in replacement of the cnc motor ?
pretty cool explain of a cool cheap printer, like mate, good job
b4 i warched it. thos printer is awesome. it is high quality for that price.
when it comes out this month you should review the new monoprice delta printer it's only 150 usd supposedly
Yeah the Repetier firmware printer menu is garbage. The kit I bought for $185 had a heated bed and used this firmware. I immediately got a 7" touch screen and raspberry pi to run octoprint. Way more reliable prints, interface that doesn't suck, remote stopping, fast access to stepper idle power disabling, print pausing that moves the print head out of the way, timelapse capabilities, all made it worth it. Highly recommend the official 7" capacitive touch screen with the SmartiPi enclosure. Total cost is like $130 if you don't have a Pi or micro sd card or heatsink or quality 2A power supply with an inline switch but you can run more than one printer off of it. It's definitely an investment like Simplify 3D although these days the only need I see for Simplify 3d over Cura is speed, customizable supports, and multiple processes.
Get this or wait for the kodama obsidian?
Having to re-mount the SD card is probably because the SD slot has no sd-select pin. My Mendels both run repetier firmware and one will auto mount SD cards, one won't. That's because one of them has a pin in the SD slot that tells the firmware when an SD card is inserted.
Do you know where is the PDF for the building tutorial of this printer online? Do you know how to upgrade it to have a heated bed? (great videos btw).
Hello there! I purchased a small 3d printer FMEA FM-T06 but it does not contain user manual and I could not find anywhere how to build that printer. I see this model is similar to the one in your video. Any recommendations on how to biuld it or where to get a user manual? Thanks!
Wouldn't increasing the retraction distance to about 4mm help a lot with those strings and blobs?? It's a bowden printer after all.
Hi Makers Muse.
I am considering to gey this printer.
A goal would be to upgrade its structural hardware in order to print bigger parts.
It means longer beams but not keeping its cantelever shape.
Is it possible to program longer coordinates , right ?
Do you see any inconveniences ?
Thanks a lot. js
Review the new Monoprice Select Mini V2 thats coming out in 13 days!
Source on the date?
would it be worthtrying to get in tough with them to see about doing a seperate kit for a cooling fan on a flexy arm?
Dear Angus,
Would there be a device to recycle media so save costs also?
Thank you again
Should i buy this printer?
I completely agree with the interface. My Anet A8 has the exact same interface-and it kills me every time.
That being said, I was wondering as to what I should set my settings to. I wanted to increase the printer's speed from its slower 30mm/s print speed. If I change it to 50mm/s, for example, should I change any other settings?
SupaSimon i have It on 40 and its damn fast and high quality, prob should search on Google "anet a8 settings"
Thanks!
Would this printer be better than the monoprice select mini/Maylan M200?
Qualitywize
Would anyone recommend this for making motherboard covers.
Referrence: Maximus Formula IX.
Looks something like that. Not gonna build a whole cover but a few parts only. Maybe a cover for the M.2 Slot and custom covers for its logo and CPU heatsinks.
I love these reviews
Review anet a8 please!
Hey Angus can you test the filaprint bed surface since I'm thinking of getting it but there are no reviews on RUclips
Have you ever done a video on the Anet A8
Great video thanks for the review
It's for sale on gearbeast for $165 AU at the moment
Just recived my package and its missing ALL bolts,brackets and nuts.
Orderd from gearbest will mail the Support now.