You can save yourself about 30 minutes and take the cold side pipe off the turbo. And leave the filter bracket in. Loosen the bolt that keeps the filter tight in the bracket and the filter comes straight out and you don’t need to remove all the other stuff about the filter
Also there is a service advisory. You are never to twist the turbo inlet like they did. Big no no. Just take it straight off. 3nm torque on the clamp putting it back on clean and dry.
As noted above the brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the atmosphere thru the reservoir vent. The fluid level goes up and down while driving and braking. The vent allows moist air to enter the reservoir and contact the fluid. Not only is internal corrosion a concern, but the fluid in the brake caliper rises in temperature during braking. Braking on a long downhill and when towing a trailer increases the heating of the brake system and the moisture will boil at 100C or 212F at sealevel and lower at higher elevations. When the moisture goes into a vapor phase when heated, it increases in volume and becomes compressible. This makes the braking system weaker and the brake pedal requires more travel to get the same braking effect and may need more travel than available. That can lead to damage to the van and worse to people inside and outside of the Sprinter. The Higher DOT leval means the brake fluid itself boils at a higher temperature but it also absorbs water easier. No right answer.
4:27 Mercedes Benz has a service bulletin that says to not do exactly what you do here. Anytime that turbo Intake seal is disturbed you should replace the seal (clean and dry), and torque the clamp 3Nm.
I think the recommended service interval is 40,000 miles. It's been a while since I looked it up, so I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure it's commonly included in service B, which is a 40,000 mile interval.
Try rockauto.com. You may want to know the part number on your original filter if you want to do an exact replacement, since there were different filters used for different regions of the world. The part number will be marked on the outside of your filter; you'll have to lift it out of its bracket to read it. The OEM is Mann, if you want to stick with the original brand.
Great question! I believe there are specialty pliers for these clamps, however I was able to complete the job without them. I used a small flat head screwdriver to open the clamps by prying up the lock tab. To re-secure them afterwards, I just squeezed the lock tab back over with pliers. They haven't leaked in 25,000 miles since.
Your instruction seems OK but the guy with the camera need to KEEP STILL for a while. The constant jerky motions and moving around are it difficult to follow..
It varies! The best way to ensure you get the correct one for your vehicle is to read the part number on your current filter. The variables are water separator (with or without), heater (with or without), and I believe filter mesh size.
It varies! The best way to ensure you get the correct one for your vehicle is to read the part number on your current filter. The variables are water separator (with or without), heater (with or without), and I believe filter mesh size.
You can save yourself about 30 minutes and take the cold side pipe off the turbo. And leave the filter bracket in. Loosen the bolt that keeps the filter tight in the bracket and the filter comes straight out and you don’t need to remove all the other stuff about the filter
Also there is a service advisory. You are never to twist the turbo inlet like they did. Big no no. Just take it straight off. 3nm torque on the clamp putting it back on clean and dry.
Thanks for video. I followed it and replaced the filter for 2019 Sprinter van. Great saving and feel nice to be able to DIY.
Hell yeah! That's the best feeling! Thanks for sharing and we're so glad to help.
As noted above the brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the atmosphere thru the reservoir vent. The fluid level goes up and down while driving and braking. The vent allows moist air to enter the reservoir and contact the fluid.
Not only is internal corrosion a concern, but the fluid in the brake caliper rises in temperature during braking. Braking on a long downhill and when towing a trailer increases the heating of the brake system and the moisture will boil at 100C or 212F at sealevel and lower at higher elevations. When the moisture goes into a vapor phase when heated, it increases in volume and becomes compressible. This makes the braking system weaker and the brake pedal requires more travel to get the same braking effect and may need more travel than available. That can lead to damage to the van and worse to people inside and outside of the Sprinter. The Higher DOT leval means the brake fluid itself boils at a higher temperature but it also absorbs water easier. No right answer.
4:27 Mercedes Benz has a service bulletin that says to not do exactly what you do here. Anytime that turbo Intake seal is disturbed you should replace the seal (clean and dry), and torque the clamp 3Nm.
Thanks for sharing! Guess we got lucky as it hasn't been a problem in 25,000 miles!
@@OutofIpswich There were enough adverse incidents from mechanics just twisting it out of the way that they issued bulletin V-B-09.00/01
How often does the Fuel Water Separator filter needs to be replaced?
I think the recommended service interval is 40,000 miles. It's been a while since I looked it up, so I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure it's commonly included in service B, which is a 40,000 mile interval.
where did you buy the filter? do you have a link to send me?
Try rockauto.com. You may want to know the part number on your original filter if you want to do an exact replacement, since there were different filters used for different regions of the world. The part number will be marked on the outside of your filter; you'll have to lift it out of its bracket to read it. The OEM is Mann, if you want to stick with the original brand.
what are the pliers made to open and close the fuel clamps?
Great question! I believe there are specialty pliers for these clamps, however I was able to complete the job without them. I used a small flat head screwdriver to open the clamps by prying up the lock tab. To re-secure them afterwards, I just squeezed the lock tab back over with pliers. They haven't leaked in 25,000 miles since.
Do you need Xentry to prime it?
No! It should start up as normal after replacement, without any computer connection.
Your instruction seems OK but the guy with the camera need to KEEP STILL for a while. The constant jerky motions and moving around are it difficult to follow..
Glad you found it helpful!
Part number of the fuel filter?
It varies! The best way to ensure you get the correct one for your vehicle is to read the part number on your current filter. The variables are water separator (with or without), heater (with or without), and I believe filter mesh size.
It varies! The best way to ensure you get the correct one for your vehicle is to read the part number on your current filter. The variables are water separator (with or without), heater (with or without), and I believe filter mesh size.
No way am I doing this.
Okay! No one says you have to.
كم كيلو متر حتى نغير الفلتر
It depends on the oil used, but the recommended service interval for 229.52 oil is 30,000km.