Rear suspension teardown on Volvo XC70 P3. Part 1 of 2. All will be new!
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- 2009 Volvo XC70 T6 with 123,000km or 76000 miles.
In part 1 I am disassembling the rear suspension completely including leaking axle seals. In part 2 will be installing all new componenets.
Great video. I live in upstate New York and our winters are similar. The upper coil on both rear springs on our 2013 XC70 snapped at 100000 miles. Luckily all the bolts came out without problems! I feel better now about the corrosion on our cars! I spray everything with fluid film. It's a greasy mess but helps keep them from rusting further. Looking forward to part 2!
Yuri, I surprised that Volvo didn’t coat the rear springs to protect them from road salt. This is one reason I am glad I live in CA, and that my 2011 S80 is a CA car
Epic work, Yuri! Please keep this demonstration car as long as possible. It's in the interest of all owners of this model.
Trying my best. This car is a demonstration for all P3 owners
I have the D5 AWD and I am actually in the process of collecting all the parts to do exactly the same!
Holy Mosses's this is a lot of work!
Will you have a video of front plz? Amazing videos.
Not soon. But planning.
Good job!👍
Gran trabajo, esperando la siguiente fase de la reparación
Have to do the RF axle soon due to damage to the carrier bearing...i wonder how much of a role the rust played in the difficulty of your teardown.
Perfect as always
I missed the part where you decided not to use aluminium lower control arms. With new press-in bushings it would be better solution at your rustbelt region?
The Volvo bushings are 70$ each times 4. Plus labour to press in. The new arms are better solution at this point
Hello
I come from France owning a volvo S80II P3 D5 185hp automatic transmission dated September 27, 2006.
I would have liked to know if the rear control arms are so easy to disassemble and that it is the black paint you use to protect the mechanical elements
Thank you in advance and look forward to the future 😊
Hey Yuri, which front rear arm bushings did you put in? I'm not sure about original or powerflex. what is your vision?😊 greats Hans
Original Volvo part and done at Volvo dealer. I am working on the video to show.
yuri, you are the best. and thanks for your response👍 enjoy your weekend
holy that was rusty underneith, my xc70 from 2012 and 215000 km has allmost no rust underneith and we have salt on road in sweden.
Quick question: do we need to use a spring compressor to clamp the spring before removing the control arm? Wonder if it would "explode" if not clamped during removal
No need. Just use jack to put it in and out.
Süper
I learned first hand using rubberized undercoating on material that's already rusty isn't a good idea - it traps moisture. I like how thorough you are! Keep it up
Indeed. All surface rust should be sprayed with a RUST CONVERSION COATING technology spray. Please see my dedicated comment just about this topic. Thanks!
My P3 V60 is just as rusty, doing the same job - iot is a lot of work. Great video!
Really good work, a professional mechanic in a fully tooled garage, may manage to do the job quicker, but will not protect all the underside unless you pay extra. You have saved yourself a lot of money, and can be proud of doing a job well done.
There is a proven tech called RUST CONVERSION COATING. I have used it since 1983. Spray it on surface rust - it chemically converts rust to a hard shiny black paintable surface. Of course after that you should topcoat it with black epoxy or some other coating of your choice. It only works on surface rust - it’s useless to paint it on un-rusted metal or painted metal. Knock off the large loose chunks first of course, because it is for SURFACE RUST. I have kept several Volvos going in New England winters for seven years by doing this every six months, putting the car up on RACE RAMPS, first the front, and then the back, and using a wire brush or some other mechanical means, knocking off the large chunks of loose rust, and then spraying the remainder with the rust conversion coating spray. Rustoleum is my favorite but there are many brands. It was invented in the 1970s for buildings which had an architectural design of bare outer steel which would intentionally rust (on the surface only) to a brown color. You can still see many of these buildings all over the planet.
As always: great video. I am just eondering why you replace all the parts after only 130000 km. Was the rear suspension giving you trouble?
Only two issues. Rusted springs and leaking axle seals. But decided to completly renew the rear end.
Nice work! Thanks for the video!
Different rear shocks on my 2009 Xc70.. Nivomat style with rubber gaitors.
Sad. Very expensive to replace. I am lucky.
I have a question about my 2009 Volvo XC70. Is there a way you could make a small video at night showing how High your headlights are pointed from the ground on a wall or garage door? I am having a difficult time adjusting them correctly and would love to see a video of how your lights look at night on a wall or going down the street. Thank you so much. 😊
I know how to adjust them, I just don't know how high they should be or how low they should be. A quick video of your headlights against a wall or shining down the street would help me tremendously. Also love your videos, I have subscribed!
A few comments on the seized screw at 18:44: A few weeks ago I bought a used a spring to my 2009 V70. The old spring is broken right down at the bottom, on the "seat". So I jacked the car up, put a jackstand underneith and started working on the screw which didn't want to budge at all. Eventually after several attempts, by hand, and a lot of WD40, it started moving. Then it stopped again and it turned out that I couldn't screw it back either. Luckily it was still half way inside the nut on the other side. I had to leave it that way for maybe 4 or so days until I got hold of better tools. The second attempt was mainly about getting it back all the way in. Success! I was tempted to try to get it all the way out, but again it got stuck in the same place. I tried to screw it back and forth but it just wouldn't move any further. I was very reluctant to use more force. Also, I don't have a garage or even a driveway. An absolute nightmare scenario would be if the screw snapped. I'd be stranded like a helpless whale on the beach.
Anyway, I bought a new screw in case I DO get it out if I decide to give it another shot.
That’s why I had to replace the whole arm. Good luck man! Keep us posted !!!
@@volvosweden Hi again, well here's an update: I managed to get the screw out. After I'd replaced the spring and was about to pack up and leave, I got stuck trying to get the screw back on. No matter what I tried and no matter how many attempts, I just couldn't get the screw to line up with the welded nut on the other side. I spent over two hours under a burning sun on a parking lot trying to get it on. In the end I had no other choice but to call an assistance/tow truck. It took him 35 or so minutes to get to where I was. We both tried but no no avail. So he towed the car to a shop and I got it back today! With proper tools and equipment they got it into place.
I don't recommend anybody to take the chance with this stuff unless you access to proper tools, etc., as well as your own garage or driveway. I'm telling you, if that screw snaps or if you can't line it up with the nut as in my case, well, that's just too bad! This is just a word of caution. I knew perfectly well how to do this job, but still I found myself in a very unpleasant situation.
Great work as usual Yuri. Your car is a credit to you. Luckily i still have my V60 which is FWD so my task was a touch more simple but pretty much identical. Next job for me, find out where my screenwash is leaking from, full tank of screenwach disappears pretty much straight after you use it just once. Ive filled the tank and not used the wash function and it has not lost any so guessing a hole in the pipe to the headlight washers.
Just shows what difference the climate makes. My XC70 is 2012 model and since we don’t really have winters here in UK there is hardly any rust on suspension parts. I also just bought a 97 V70 T5 manual, stripped out the engine, gearbox, whole front suspension and subframe without a single seased bolt.
Atleast I guess in Canada they don’t use those chemicals on roads as they do in Russia where the rust eats up a car in about 5years.
Greeting from Denmark.
I really enjoy your videos, they are a joy to watch.
I have a 2008 V70 2.5T and do all of the work on it myself, like you.
Keep up the production of these fantastic videos :-)
Regards.
Peter
With Gratitude!
Support and love!
Братуха, молодец. Большая работа. Маленький совет: накручивай гайку на болт, перед тем как выбивать, чтоб не повредить резьбу ❤
Болты все равно под замену. Так спасибо.