Common Swaging Mistakes
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2019
- While compression sleeves are a strong, easy way to make a cable termination, people still run into problems. In this video, we will cover some of the common mistakes, and how to avoid them.
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As a former electrician, thank you. I would have done it incorrectly just as you observed. Very useful videos.
This is brilliant information. Instructions on any process should always tell not just how to do it, but how *not* to do it. There are plenty of instructions on swaging available, but this is the first to cover any contra-instructions. This applies to anything important. Of course it's a rigger who knows this best, that's the nature of the job. Thank you.
Thanks for making this video! I’m glad you pointed out not to crimp it like electrical wire fittings. I would have done that without watching your video.
Thank you for the tips.
Great vid--straight to the point, short, and sweet!
Glad you liked it!
Valuable info for me, thanks
@ 1:26 I was wondering just that, do we need two Ferrules was my question. This answered it.. thanks!
How about a close up of the cable with two swages?
Short and sweet
Is that an OEM KTM 950/990 skid plate on the wall?
I have one additional cause of failed swages. I've got a sunroom that uses cables swaged with aluminum ferrules in the window system. In all, there are 8 cables and 16 swages. Within a few years of the sunroom build, they all started failing. The builder was unresponsive so I researched myself, bought a swaging tool, and replaced all the wire. A few years later, my own crimps started to fail. Only one survived and still looks brand new. It's the one bare cable I installed. The rest are poly-coated. The sheathing gets baked by the sun, burning and cracking until it lets the sleeve slip right off the cable. Also, the cable inside the sheathing corrodes badly. Now, after some trial, error, and more research, I finally get it. This year, I'll replace all the coated cables with uncoated and those should last forever.
It is a common mistake to make terminations over coated cable, but all terminations are supposed to me made with the coating stripped off to provide a positive connection to the material an avoid the problem you described above. Thanks for relaying the story!
Do you know where i can find a table with the final meassures of crimped aluminum sleeves? just to check if i have donde the job properly. Thanks!
The best choice for that information is to go to the manufacturer. They often do not post the dimensions, referring you to the go gauge instead, but if you call them you may be able to get the actual measurement.
What a cool video! 😍
Thank you! 😃
I like your presentations, and your delivery. Your camera work could use a bit of improvement. When you offer important information, please pause, zoom on the subject in question and linger so we have time to study what you have shared, perhaps offer key points: note how the doohicky has kerplunked in this case.
I would like to ask you an important question, I hope you will answer me.
A few years ago, I created a home lift for people, using the motor of a 600 kg Hoist, 4mm wire rope. (it is child proof, secured, bulkheads, various sensors etc, I also created a fall arrest system similar to the first Otis)
Now I need to make some changes, and change the cable.
1- I know that some clamping systems are not up to the actual breaking load of the cable.
But let's see if I understand correctly:
-Clips with bolt, are the least suitable, lower the breaking load of the cable by 20-30%.
- Aluminum Swage Sleeves can reach 90%.
-Copper Swage Sleeves can I keep fit the cable while maintaining 100% breaking load?
2-I don't have a hydraulic press but I have a "YQK-70 Hydraulic crimping tool" can I reach 100% or do I lose the breaking load?
3-Otherwise, what choice do you recommend to fully exploit the load of my cable?
Thank you
Answer 1: Wire rope clips are the least efficient, losing 20% of the strength of the cable when properly installed according to manufacturer instructions. When not properly installed, including proper torque and pre-tensioning, they have an unknown capability. Aluminum swages and copper swages have the same efficiency, about 95% in the most conservative scenario, but aluminum swages are not approved for overhead lifting by the manufacturer. Copper sleeves properly install are the best option.
Answer 2: You don't need a hydraulic press to crimp the coper sleeves, but you do need to use a tool and a go gauge from the same manufacturer, either Nicopress or Loos & Co. The tool you have might be able to put a crimp in a sleeve, but it is not made by a reputable manufacturer and should not be used for applications where people are being lifted.
Answer 3: My first recommendation is to get help with this project from a rigging professional. The project you describe has many inherent dangers and bringing in a professional will help spot those dangers and avoid them. At the least, you should use copper sleeves crimped with a tool from the manufacturers listed above and checked with a go gauge from the same manufacturer. All termination must be done according to manufacturers specifications.
On Amazon I purchased 1/8" cable and 1/8" sleeves that stated they were for 1/8" cable. However, the is NO way that I can get that cable through the sleeve hole because the act of cutting the cable, no matter how careful I am, tends to slightly fray the end of that cable and in that state it will not fit through the sleeve hole. So now I have to run to Lowes or Home Depot to try to find the next size sleeves so that I can get the job done. What a hassle. So, what IS the correct size sleeve for a 1/8" cable? Is it 3/16" or something else?
1/8" cable gets 1/8" sleeves. The trick is to use a cutter made for cutting wire rope. Some cutters are designed to actually tamp down the ends a little to make it easier to get in the sleeve, but usually you have to twist the ends to get them to lay down and sometime twist the cable as it goes in the sleeve. It is also worth pointing out that getting rigging gear from Amazon or big box home improvement stores is not a great idea. You really want industrial products for anything that will be suspended overhead and you really want crimping tools from Nicopress or Loos & Co. Crimping tools from Home Depot or Harbor Freight are going to be substandard and not suitable for overhead rigging.
Using two ferrules is for safety in case one fails.
Ferrules don't generally slip, so adding a second one prevents a non-problem. In all test cases I have ever seen, the cable breaks, not the ferrule. That is the way they are designed to work. If the first one is installed properly, the second one is superfluous. If the first one is put on badly, then adding a second that is also installed badly also does not do any good. The best option is to install one correctly and let it do its job.
@@thechicagoflyhouseinc1865 Sure the best result is to install one correctly, but I don't think anyone makes the decision to install one incorrectly to begin with. Two give you twice the chance to install one correctly. If the first one holds, the second is a non-issue, but if the first fails I would rather have a second install just in case. What's the big issue with installing two??? Perhaps the high cost of the ferrules is reason to avoid installing an additional one? haha
I hate the black and white filter