Ah, this helps. For my application, I was swaging onsite -- threading my cable through a fixed eye bolt, then crimping. Now, I can swage in the shop, bring my finished cables to the job site, and connect them using carabiners.
For others, I believe oval ferrules for 3/16" require 4 crimps not 3. Check the instructions with your parts. Also be sure when you are done there is at least a rope diameter hanging out the ferrule end.
When splicing two cables together or making a loop from one cable the FAA manual on acceptable repairs (AC43.13-2A) is to use two ferrules and leave at least 1/2” between them. Also there should be about 1/4” of cable end sticking out the loose end. This cable system is used in many light aircraft.
You actually only have 1 wire rope holding the load. It looks like the length farthest away from you has a little slack compared to the closest side length. Unless the 2 lengths are EXACT you are better off w/ one heavier wire rope. The slack side will never be truly under shared load unless the taut side slips enough for the slack side to be loaded.
Mr. Biggs is correct, but there is only one wire thimbled at each end, so that is the weakest point X 2, even if both cable segments were exactly the same length, so the poster wasted 5' of cable in this posting.
Of course you are correct on this. My load was minimal, therefore no need for a lot here. This is primarily on how to actually use the tool and create the crimps in the ferrule that holds the wire rope. Thanks for commenting! :)
Nice job. Actually, two wire rope thickness on tag end would be correct if you want to maximize for 90% strength. We always cover crimp & tag ends with a heavy heat shrink tube to avoid wire in hands.
could add 2 more crimps in middle both side of the centre one you added which would hold 2 cables together plus adding much more breaking strength but what you did is strong enough and works out cheaper but i would prefer the 2 cables held together in middle making it more like one unit as i dont like how the cables seperate in middle,,, still great, thanks for sharing
There are many sources of information for correct materials that are compatible. Did you use the Swage gauge to check your swedges? There is a correct order of precedence in swedge application. Never middle last. The middle of the line is held by a hook? Did you account for reduction in capacity by operating angle? If you want the full benefit of your materials try the best practices rigging , or FAA advisory circular on wire rope fabrication and repair, and or wire rope manufacturer.
Welcome! Take from this what you will. There are other ways to do the same thing, different techniques, etc. Overall, they don't differ significantly, and locking the tool in the vice makes things SO MUCH easier. Party on, Wayne.
what did you put the ferrule on the center of the cable for? And i just bought a ferrule and stop set and there are no instrictions. but the diagram shows the stop cylinder about a half inch farther down the cable from the ferrule. What's the purpose of that?
Good questions. The center ferrule is only there to hold the wire rope ends. It serves no functional purpose. It's more a design or stylistic thing. That stop cylinder is something I (obviously) don't use. You can add it if you want, or can figure out some reason to include it.
thanks for the video! I have some projects in mind and this answers pretty much all my questions! one thing though, about how much did it cost roughly to make that one strand?
Do you have any videos on tieing a loop in a 3/4 " cable ? I'm talking untieing it and rebraiding it . No thimbles ,no swedges ,just cable .45 years ago I was good at it ,but I can't remember exactly how I did it .
I believe it was called "Fleshing a Cable" but I'm not finding anything on it yet . I just need a large loop ,bigger than what a thimble gives you. Thanks for the reply !!
Well, if you can't find anything, you could always just use the clamps, unless they get in the way. I'll look around as well and see if I can find anything.
I found this ,WHYKNOT is the channel and the video is" Easy to follow How to tie an eye spice in 3 strand rope" . But this would be pretty tuff to do with 3/4 cable rope .I don't recall it being that difficult but I was just getting started in adulthood . Thanks for your interest in my conquest .Thanks bud !!
Crimping tool was from Home Depot, only one they have, don't know what it's called, and there is no "die number" that I know of. Just two different sizes in the jaw. I know how to use tools, I don't know names and model numbers and detailed specs. Sorry.
Cheap crimper only has a couple of size options, as you can see. The opening I used was the largest opening. The next one closer to the handles is smaller. Don't know how you know your comment is correct. It appears to be a case of mistaken identity.
I've never looked for that tool at Harbor Freight. It may be there... or not. I only know for sure that Home Depot has them, and for sure there are lots of variations of this tool on Amazon.
I'd look online for the best price on crimpers. You can sometimes find them used on Ebay. Note that crimped connections are much smoother and better looking, but if you only have one or a few connections to make you can use wire rope clamps instead. Those only require a wrench to tighten.
Thanks for helping us learn, however, it was rather annoying when you kept moving in front of the camera! I suggest moving the tripod to the left view. Thanks.
Shouldn't the wire extend beyond the middle connector by at least the diameter of the wire? If you're concerned about the wire end possibly jabbing you, cover it.
Extending the wire would be ok. But remember, any wire beyond the crimp point of contact does nothing to add strength. Only the wire that makes contact with the crimped joint is being acted upon. So... extending wire beyond the crimp is really just for looks.
Tom Glander certainly with aircraft controls the 1xd protrusion is mandatory, I've always looked at it like a knot slipping a bit when you load it up for the first time.... having said that, if it's 1/4" rope you are using, I doubt you will ever get close to the 4000ib odd rating so I'm sure it's ok! nice video, thanks.
The cut end of the cable MUST be perfectly flush. No strands sticking out. They will catch on the ferrule's edge, and you'll have problems. The hardest part is cutting the wire rope so it's a good clean cut. A cutting wheel is probably best, but I relied on the machine at Home Depot to cut mine perfectly. At least that's one problem I know about. Hope this helps some.
I bought a tool like that and took it back. The large size should be at the throat of the tool not out the end. If in the throat you do not need the vise. China got it wrong again.
Have you seen a tool like the one you describe? They don't have any at Home Depot. I certainly was in no frame of mind to go shopping any further than my local store. From a leverage point of view, what you say is probably true. More crushing force could be applied with the swage closer to the pivot.
That is correct. The vise actually makes it easier, because it's a "third hand." At least that way for me. The thing is that the tool actually works, and does the job. So... some tools are better, some are worse. I rarely use this tool anyway, so the sometimes use and the funky jaws don't bug me much.
There is a swage gage tool to measure the crimped area to ensure it has been properly crimped. Where the ferrule seat is placed is a matter of design, not necessity.
Mate…there is no ‘D’ in swage. It is definitely not called sweddging……say it like “Sway-jing” as most everyone else does! Why do You Tubers do this, adding extra letters or leaving some out (like soddering Lol). Is it just an American thing? I suppose their schools never taught them how words are meant to be spoken - bad education then! It is not an accent thing…words are simply not spoken correctly. Do they do this to Spanish words too, I wonder. The vid is ok, except for that nerve shredding weird speak. However, I would definitely use more than a single ferrule to join those two ends. 3/16 wire rope should have a breaking strain just over a ton so your carabiners are well matched to it.
I guess we aren’t as literate and well spoken? Maybe Americans don’t care? Schools are garbage? Folks don’t know the boot from the bonnet. Oh well. The video was on point. Thanks for the critique.
Technically you should leave about the cable width spacing between the sleeve and the thimble end. But it all looks good.
First and
Ah, this helps. For my application, I was swaging onsite -- threading my cable through a fixed eye bolt, then crimping. Now, I can swage in the shop, bring my finished cables to the job site, and connect them using carabiners.
MAN GREAT IDEA ON THE VISE!! I saved so much time!
Thanks for the comment. The vice is a fabulous invention, isn't it?
Your captives are going to be so appreciative
Right on. Thanks!
Full send bro never lift 😏🤙mobbin deep 🙌appreciate yeah 🙏 short, simple, easy to remember, and straight to the point
For others, I believe oval ferrules for 3/16" require 4 crimps not 3. Check the instructions with your parts. Also be sure when you are done there is at least a rope diameter hanging out the ferrule end.
I understood 4 crimps too for this size cable
And those 4 crimps are to be made in a specific order that he did incorrectly
Nice shots of you back 👍
When splicing two cables together or making a loop from one cable the FAA manual on acceptable repairs (AC43.13-2A) is to use two ferrules and leave at least 1/2” between them. Also there should be about 1/4” of cable end sticking out the loose end. This cable system is used in many light aircraft.
You actually only have 1 wire rope holding the load. It looks like the length farthest away from you has a little slack compared to the closest side length. Unless the 2 lengths are EXACT you are better off w/ one heavier wire rope. The slack side will never be truly under shared load unless the taut side slips enough for the slack side to be loaded.
Very good point.
Mr. Biggs is correct, but there is only one wire thimbled at each end, so that is the weakest point X 2, even if both cable segments were exactly the same length, so the poster wasted 5' of cable in this posting.
Should have done flemish eyes with a single cable.
Of course you are correct on this. My load was minimal, therefore no need for a lot here. This is primarily on how to actually use the tool and create the crimps in the ferrule that holds the wire rope. Thanks for commenting! :)
any recommendation for cutting the wire cable and how to prevent fraying?
Nice job. Actually, two wire rope thickness on tag end would be correct if you want to maximize for 90% strength. We always cover crimp & tag ends with a heavy heat shrink tube to avoid wire in hands.
I occasionally do that and sometime I just solder their end.
What is the purpose of the crimped sleeve in the middle of one cable?
Please make more videos of your plaid shirt.
Great idea. Now, where did I put that shirt...
Is this swaging or is it just crimping? If it is swaging, what is it that makes this swaging and not crimping?
No idea. 🤷♂️
could add 2 more crimps in middle both side of the centre one you added which would hold 2 cables together plus adding much more breaking strength but what you did is strong enough and works out cheaper but i would prefer the 2 cables held together in middle making it more like one unit as i dont like how the cables seperate in middle,,, still great, thanks for sharing
Totally agree. Your method would be super strong.
There are many sources of information for correct materials that are compatible. Did you use the Swage gauge to check your swedges? There is a correct order of precedence in swedge application. Never middle last. The middle of the line is held by a hook? Did you account for reduction in capacity by operating angle? If you want the full benefit of your materials try the best practices rigging , or FAA advisory circular on wire rope fabrication and repair, and or wire rope manufacturer.
This will work great for zip line I'm building, thanks for posting!
Nice DIY setup. Well done !
Thank you very much for your time , extremely helpful and saved me $ . Ciao Big E
Thank you!!
Welcome! Take from this what you will. There are other ways to do the same thing, different techniques, etc. Overall, they don't differ significantly, and locking the tool in the vice makes things SO MUCH easier. Party on, Wayne.
Can the ferrels be used on vinyl coated wire rope. Wanted to make a lead for my dog but ended up using the u bolt system
Thomas Jeffords very difficult as the vinyl makes the wire diameter too great. You can trim the vinyl and then it will work.
@@TomGlander awesome thank you. Thats what i was thinkin
interesting swaging tool; has the largest sizes farthest from the fulcrum point, which is contrary to most of the tools I've seen?
I wanted to see what you used that cable piece for...
what did you put the ferrule on the center of the cable for? And i just bought a ferrule and stop set and there are no instrictions. but the diagram shows the stop cylinder about a half inch farther down the cable from the ferrule. What's the purpose of that?
Good questions. The center ferrule is only there to hold the wire rope ends. It serves no functional purpose. It's more a design or stylistic thing. That stop cylinder is something I (obviously) don't use. You can add it if you want, or can figure out some reason to include it.
thanks for the video! I have some projects in mind and this answers pretty much all my questions! one thing though, about how much did it cost roughly to make that one strand?
+Darkangels path it was around $16 for the parts.
Do you have any videos on tieing a loop in a 3/4 " cable ? I'm talking untieing it and rebraiding it . No thimbles ,no swedges ,just cable .45 years ago I was good at it ,but I can't remember exactly how I did it .
That sounds like quite the skill. I don't have anything like that. But would be nice to know how!
I believe it was called "Fleshing a Cable" but I'm not finding anything on it yet . I just need a large loop ,bigger than what a thimble gives you. Thanks for the reply !!
Well, if you can't find anything, you could always just use the clamps, unless they get in the way. I'll look around as well and see if I can find anything.
I found this ,WHYKNOT is the channel and the video is" Easy to follow How to tie an eye spice in 3 strand rope" . But this would be pretty tuff to do with 3/4 cable rope .I don't recall it being that difficult but I was just getting started in adulthood . Thanks for your interest in my conquest .Thanks bud !!
Here it is Tom ...."Epic Machines ".....Hypnotic Video Heavy Engineering inside Extreme Manufacturing Plants Steel Wire Rope Sling Factory
What crimping tool did you use and what is the die number? Thanks
Crimping tool was from Home Depot, only one they have, don't know what it's called, and there is no "die number" that I know of. Just two different sizes in the jaw. I know how to use tools, I don't know names and model numbers and detailed specs. Sorry.
Loos sells some great swagers. Check Amazon.
American-made, too.
You used the wrong size in the jaw. You needed the larger opening in your swaging tool.
Cheap crimper only has a couple of size options, as you can see. The opening I used was the largest opening. The next one closer to the handles is smaller. Don't know how you know your comment is correct. It appears to be a case of mistaken identity.
Oval Swags for Stainless Cable requires Zink Coat over Copper not Aluminum.
You should try standing between the camera and your work, so that all we see is flannel.
Is this a tool that can be found at Harbor Freight?
I've never looked for that tool at Harbor Freight. It may be there... or not. I only know for sure that Home Depot has them, and for sure there are lots of variations of this tool on Amazon.
I'd look online for the best price on crimpers. You can sometimes find them used on Ebay. Note that crimped connections are much smoother and better looking, but if you only have one or a few connections to make you can use wire rope clamps instead. Those only require a wrench to tighten.
That product is meant for towing a car. Nylon ropes are not good. Also a motor cycle clutch wire can be enough to pull that load.
Thanks for helping us learn, however, it was rather annoying when you kept moving in front of the camera! I suggest moving the tripod to the left view. Thanks.
Thanks Nicolas Cage 👍👍👍
You sound like the How It's Made narrator.
I've been told that before. Thank you. His name is Brooks Moore. He's very good.
Fyi... 3/16 wire rope requires swaging it four times, not three.
There was a a specific order in where you put your crimps and this is not the correct way.
Please share the proper way.
Shouldn't the wire extend beyond the middle connector by at least the diameter of the wire? If you're concerned about the wire end possibly jabbing you, cover it.
Extending the wire would be ok. But remember, any wire beyond the crimp point of contact does nothing to add strength. Only the wire that makes contact with the crimped joint is being acted upon. So... extending wire beyond the crimp is really just for looks.
Tom Glander certainly with aircraft controls the 1xd protrusion is mandatory, I've always looked at it like a knot slipping a bit when you load it up for the first time.... having said that, if it's 1/4" rope you are using, I doubt you will ever get close to the 4000ib odd rating so I'm sure it's ok! nice video, thanks.
Cool
I can't even get the wire cable into the ferrule, I just wasted three cable trying
The cut end of the cable MUST be perfectly flush. No strands sticking out. They will catch on the ferrule's edge, and you'll have problems. The hardest part is cutting the wire rope so it's a good clean cut. A cutting wheel is probably best, but I relied on the machine at Home Depot to cut mine perfectly. At least that's one problem I know about. Hope this helps some.
u forgot the stops and if you want it really cool if your women are going to be handling it put heat shrink over it and finish it off nice
Looks like the vise made it so you couldn't fully swage. The middle sleeve also looks like the wire pulled into the sleeve.
Thought it was going to be something cool.clicket on it . All you need is the right tools.
B maloney and the right brain.
I'd be curious to see that stress tested. You really don't know what you have there. Don't bet your safety on that. Do a video of it being used.
the correct term is SWAGE - pronounced SWAYGE - just saying
You got it. Everyone... good info right here.
almost every step you attempted to show us was off camera or you back blocked the camera
Yep. Good observations on a 9-year-old video created a newbie (me) who didn't know what he was doing back then.
I bought a tool like that and took it back. The large size should be at the throat of the tool not out the end. If in the throat you do not need the vise. China got it wrong again.
Have you seen a tool like the one you describe? They don't have any at Home Depot. I certainly was in no frame of mind to go shopping any further than my local store. From a leverage point of view, what you say is probably true. More crushing force could be applied with the swage closer to the pivot.
But then wouldn't the jaws need to be opened VERY far to fit the larger sleeve in the larger hole?
That is correct. The vise actually makes it easier, because it's a "third hand." At least that way for me. The thing is that the tool actually works, and does the job. So... some tools are better, some are worse. I rarely use this tool anyway, so the sometimes use and the funky jaws don't bug me much.
There is a swage gage tool to measure the crimped area to ensure it has been properly crimped. Where the ferrule seat is placed is a matter of design, not necessity.
Sorry all I see is your shirt
And it's a nice one, too! :)
Mate…there is no ‘D’ in swage. It is definitely not called sweddging……say it like “Sway-jing” as most everyone else does! Why do You Tubers do this, adding extra letters or leaving some out (like soddering Lol). Is it just an American thing? I suppose their schools never taught them how words are meant to be spoken - bad education then! It is not an accent thing…words are simply not spoken correctly. Do they do this to Spanish words too, I wonder. The vid is ok, except for that nerve shredding weird speak. However, I would definitely use more than a single ferrule to join those two ends. 3/16 wire rope should have a breaking strain just over a ton so your carabiners are well matched to it.
I guess we aren’t as literate and well spoken? Maybe Americans don’t care? Schools are garbage? Folks don’t know the boot from the bonnet. Oh well. The video was on point. Thanks for the critique.
হা!ভúভ
Terrible videography! This topic had so much potential but you black critical segments with your hand, plaid shirt or it was just out of the frame.
русские есть
Totally wrong
Right