Dethklok!!! That’s awesome! I just modified my muffler as shown in the video on Monday on my 201. I’m going to wait on advancing my timing though. But with JUST the muffler mod my 201 is like running a completely different saw, it screams!!! Awesome video, Human!
I would never trust myself to remove material from a flywheel and do a good job. Hats off to you for two things. You were brave enough to do it AND you did it well. I lack both of those qualities.
+Human, dude, you just helped my 201T get a second chance. After a couple of disappointing performances in monster pecan tree and a mountain oak I was researching 192tc, 200t, and Husqvarna T540xp as replacements for my climbing saw. I appreciate the knowledge and simple yet thorough instructions. I'm optimistic about doing my first MOD and how it performs when I finish the mountain oak tomorrow. Thanks for all the good videos and cool shit you open my eyes to..... Now to tactfully let my girl know she's not getting any before bed so I can go play with my chainsaws...... Without getting assaulted. 😂😂 ✌
Man, I'm so glad there's people like you to do this stuff so people like me don't have to. You ran a huge risk modifying that flywheel, don't know if I could trust the machine after doing that but looks like she's a runner. For future reference the microcontroller uses the pulses from both magnets on the flywheel to power itself as well as perform timing and carburetor adjustments. I will be very interested to see the long term effects of running those mods compared to a stock saw... Btw, keep a close watch on the very bottom of your piston skirt by removing the s/p and starter and rocking the flywheel back and forth past dtc. If she knocks then she's been over revved, the 201 has a larger piston and was not engineered for rpm in excess of 12k
Thanks so much for this video. I just finished modifying my flywheel and exhaust and there's a big difference in response. I used a Dremel with a small diamond bit for removing the material on the flywheel cause my file was too big and it worked perfectly.
Correct if I'm wrong. On a points saw, you can advance by adjusting the points mount. Wouldnt it be better to elongate the two mounting holes on the coil and adjust there? Seems if you screw it up, a coil is cheaper to replace than flywheel or crank. Would think finer adjustments could be made. Just a thought. Thanks for the awesome video.
6 лет назад+8
Now I tempted to modify my saws. But for flywheel - nah, I'm not gonna modify it. Too risky.
Unless you change the restrictions inside the muffler, that is for emissions, adding another hole on the down side of those restrictions does nothing for performance. Be like adding an extra exhaust tip to your car while leaving the Cats and stock Muffler on the car and expecting more HP. Advancing timing is a benefit but requires higher octane fuel. If you don't increase the octane levels you will get detonation. If you think or suspect detonation, remove the spark plugs and inspect the top of the Piston. If detonation is present, you will see pitting on the top of the piston
Stihls are notorious for restrictive exhausts. Dependent on the saw, the baffles are not actually that bad on the interior and drilling those holes and retuning the carb is just the trick to wake them up. 192’s and 290’s are great examples. I’ve never had a stihl saw that exhaust modifying didn’t help at least marginally.
Hey Corey, do you have a video of this for a 200T? I was able to get my hands on a rebuilt and wanted to try the mod out, but it looks alittle different than my 201T C-M. Great job on the video by the way!
hi champ good thinking on those two mods . . I've advanced the timing and removed every spark arester screen on all my chainsaws . . I have 6 chainsaws all stihl machines a 193t, two 018's, a 150tce , a 381 magnum , and a 440 magnum . much louder but I have more power in all of my saws now and I done it the exact way you do it . . just don't let anyone catch you using a saw with no spark arester screen . . big fires can be caused from hot carbon shooting out the exhaust . . as you know . . keep up the good work champ I hope your pelvis is not giving you too much greef ???
i have done the mufler and timing advance and now i feel the saw hesitates slightly when accelerating and also seems to have lost low end torque? anyone have any info
If your still checking your comments? Quick question.... fairly new 201, did the muffler mod as well as advanced the timing. Saw screams but doesn’t like to idle, any tips?
hey man love the channel I've been running a tree service for the past 1.5 years. so I can relate to the learning curve. I'm glad to see that your passionate about the work, a little determination and passion will take you anywhere you want to go. I do have a question about the mods how do get your high speed screw to rich'in out after the mod. I'm so afraid of breaking the carb trying to take out the stops wants the trick.
Sorry for the delayed response, comment didn't pop up for some reason. On the side of the carb, right above the high side adjustment needle, is a pin that locks the needle in place. You have to drill it out, then the stop will come right out. Can't remember what site it was that showed it being done, likely arboristsite.com, but that's where I saw how to do it.
So is it possible to take off too much of the key and advance the timing too far? Could you please post close ups of the key way to give a better idea how much and where to file?
I don't know how noticeable it would be looking at just the keyway. The way I gauged how much he took off was by watching the flywheel fin on top. You will notice that after the adjustment a fin stops right at a line on the case. Using that as your reference, back up to before the mod, then gauge how far that fin moved. Now that you have a reference to work from, Remove material slowly and check frequently so you don't remove too much.
Didn't even think of that could be possible to retro fit second spark arrest fiddly but quit do able-have the best of both worlds thanks for the thought, onto it @@unclep1210
Jörund Rundhovde totally worth it.... I don’t recall ever seeing a ember of anything coming out of any muffler of any saw I ever used.... but I have seen the bar and chain spark quite a few times.... where’s the screens for those????
*I've been wondering how to advance the timing on my stihl 015 that I just custom built. What benefit do you gain from advancing the timing on one of these chainsaws?*
@@Treeesmith *Yessir, I know this 1st hand now. Advanced the timing on my 015 last week and that combined with the electronic ignition upgrade and port work I did makes this saw a little monster. It looks like a little toy but it's really no joke.*
Sure, just pull the spark arrestor out first, drill your port then put the arrestor back in. You can leave it in while drilling the hole but it's like 50/50 on if you screw the arrestor screen up or not. So just pull it out, do your port then put it back.
does the m tronic require any fuel adjustments after performing the mods? I had to open up the Jets on my 150tc but that is not a mtronic saw. I am not familiar/ignorant with the new saws that have the auto tune stuff. I have a new 201 coming and would like to do these mods. thanks. appreciate you making the video
Everything I've read has said that the carb adjusts itself to the mods, though I've no proof in writing. I can say that my saw is still running like a champ though.
+jacob gilkerson +human In terms of having a machine that is less complex, I prefer not to have the M-tronic system. Not to sound like a doomsday prepper nut, but, in the event of an EMP, the m-tronic system is hosed and the saw is useless.
that bothered the shit out of me that you didn't clean up the cut on the clutch cover with your dremel or something. if youre going to do it, do it right
Doing it right in the case of two stroke exhaust modification would be not doing any exhaust modification, unless you have the scale of industry to do it right.
Not really sure on that one, does it run fine? I will say it is more difficult to start them in the trees, depending on positioning. Often don't have my legs planted firmly for a good base, so it can be quite a pain sometimes.
Human that's probably it...thanks. .but anouter thing it does it revs with chain break is on...it locks the chain but still revs when outhers make that grunting noice??
Might just need a little adjustment on the idle. It's the screw labled (LA), loosening it will bring the idle down, tightening will bring it up. Generally want it set to where the chain will just barely turn at idle, then back off a hair so the chain stops.
Absolutely, use the HT 131 all the time, close to the same thing. I will say they do have at least one new model of polesaw coming out in the spring, may want to wait if you're not in dire need of it. Check out the new ones, maybe grab it, or a discounted older version if the new model isn't much better.
so the german engineers spent years developing the engine geometry and you take a file and move the timing 8 or 10 degrees... did you measure your advance using any technical tools ?? can you measure your power and torque to see if you made anything better ?? the engineers that designed the engine I guess should have called you.... have you a degree in engine design or any science that you are using for these changes ??? do you think the saw engine works better when your done ??? moving timing an unknown amount seems insane to me... especially since you have no way to measure advance or your power curve at rpm or throttle.. maybe would 90 degree advance be even better ??
There are certainly improvements that can be done at smoothing intake walls as such process done at the factory would drastically increase the price of the saw. Smoothing the intake makes for more air intake due to less air friction and thus less turbulence in the stream. I do agree that these engines are capable of more power yet more modifications than that require test apparatuses and/or a lot of expertise to do it properly.
@@Human1337 do you hand sharpen, or machine? any interest in reviewing the granberg? i've seen other reviews of it, however i'm curious what your opinion is. i'm thinking of using it on the job for when chains need a little more than a couple strokes.
You gave that plus 10` advance timing by looks of it ( if it didn`t move when you re torqued the crank nut ) ....would love to hear how its been running and what octane fuel you have been burning ?
I've never heard of it shortening the life of a saw. These mods are pretty tame compared to some. You can see a large number of loggers here on youtube running insanely modded saws, and they're running them all day every day.
Correct on the "A", most people think I'm just a huge fan of the angles baseball team....not so much. Though technically I'm agnostic, lean heavily towards atheism. Very nice work on the 066, everything turn out cool? I don't do enough large jobs that I still don't get a little nervous when I go to start them back up. Always wondering, did I forget anything? lol
I'm an atheist myself, that's why I noticed. Respect for getting the tattoo. I had actually never taken an engine apart when I took apart the 066. My brother started a tree service and we dealt with stuff up to 60", so a big saw was a must. But he burned up the rings, and scored the jug. The hardest part was actually routing the ignition cutoff wires back properly and getting all of the throttle/choke linkages lined up. Fortunately I didn't forget anything, but I have a video of me firing it up, took some adjusting of the carburetor to account for an extra 6cc. of displacement!
Yeah I used to be Agnostic, but now I believe in the Devil for sure.. Also, many ancient cultures of the world used (and still do) use the hexagram to represent Saturn. And guess what, there is a massive Hexagon on the north pole of Saturn, 4 times the size of Earth... How did they know?
![Ice On My Teeth - ATEEZ エイティーズ 에이티즈 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 241115](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c-n92OgbbwA/mqdefault.jpg)
Dethklok!!! That’s awesome!
I just modified my muffler as shown in the video on Monday on my 201. I’m going to wait on advancing my timing though. But with JUST the muffler mod my 201 is like running a completely different saw, it screams!!!
Awesome video, Human!
I would never trust myself to remove material from a flywheel and do a good job. Hats off to you for two things. You were brave enough to do it AND you did it well. I lack both of those qualities.
+Human, dude, you just helped my 201T get a second chance. After a couple of disappointing performances in monster pecan tree and a mountain oak I was researching 192tc, 200t, and Husqvarna T540xp as replacements for my climbing saw. I appreciate the knowledge and simple yet thorough instructions. I'm optimistic about doing my first MOD and how it performs when I finish the mountain oak tomorrow. Thanks for all the good videos and cool shit you open my eyes to..... Now to tactfully let my girl know she's not getting any before bed so I can go play with my chainsaws...... Without getting assaulted. 😂😂 ✌
LOL, glad to help =)
Man, I'm so glad there's people like you to do this stuff so people like me don't have to. You ran a huge risk modifying that flywheel, don't know if I could trust the machine after doing that but looks like she's a runner. For future reference the microcontroller uses the pulses from both magnets on the flywheel to power itself as well as perform timing and carburetor adjustments. I will be very interested to see the long term effects of running those mods compared to a stock saw... Btw, keep a close watch on the very bottom of your piston skirt by removing the s/p and starter and rocking the flywheel back and forth past dtc. If she knocks then she's been over revved, the 201 has a larger piston and was not engineered for rpm in excess of 12k
Thanks so much for this video. I just finished modifying my flywheel and exhaust and there's a big difference in response. I used a Dremel with a small diamond bit for removing the material on the flywheel cause my file was too big and it worked perfectly.
This is still relevant, my 201tc with a build date of 11-19 just woke up with these 2 mods. Thanks!
Correct if I'm wrong. On a points saw, you can advance by adjusting the points mount. Wouldnt it be better to elongate the two mounting holes on the coil and adjust there? Seems if you screw it up, a coil is cheaper to replace than flywheel or crank. Would think finer adjustments could be made. Just a thought. Thanks for the awesome video.
Now I tempted to modify my saws. But for flywheel - nah, I'm not gonna modify it. Too risky.
Unless you change the restrictions inside the muffler, that is for emissions, adding another hole on the down side of those restrictions does nothing for performance. Be like adding an extra exhaust tip to your car while leaving the Cats and stock Muffler on the car and expecting more HP. Advancing timing is a benefit but requires higher octane fuel. If you don't increase the octane levels you will get detonation. If you think or suspect detonation, remove the spark plugs and inspect the top of the Piston. If detonation is present, you will see pitting on the top of the piston
Stihls are notorious for restrictive exhausts. Dependent on the saw, the baffles are not actually that bad on the interior and drilling those holes and retuning the carb is just the trick to wake them up. 192’s and 290’s are great examples. I’ve never had a stihl saw that exhaust modifying didn’t help at least marginally.
Keep it coming man, love the channel👊🏼
I didn’t even take my muffler off. I just held it wide open and blew a hole in it then used a step drill to open the hole to the size I wanted.
These tools are just so cool. I wonder if they are cheap to repair? Smaller and lite yet still gets the job done.
This is something I really needed to know. Thank you man
Hey Corey, do you have a video of this for a 200T? I was able to get my hands on a rebuilt and wanted to try the mod out, but it looks alittle different than my 201T C-M. Great job on the video by the way!
like the arm pictures, def adds to the re-mod ...........
Great 👍 video do you have any videos on the ms193t
Hey man I love the vids!!! Keep em coming
Timing woke it up, great throttle response.You would need to richin it up or not
awesome video mate its grate to no these mods
First video of yours ive come across. Heard metalocalypse and I was sold lol
Great approach, like your style...
Thanks for the walk through, my 201t is about two yrs old, can use refurb and mod while I'm at it
Yeah, after using this one for a couple months, I wasn't really fond of my new one until I did the mods. Got used to the extra power, nice to have.
Deftones! Love me some old Skool Adrenaline!
My 201tc keeps stalling, how do i fix this?
hi champ good thinking on those two mods . . I've advanced the timing and removed every spark arester screen on all my chainsaws . . I have 6 chainsaws all stihl machines a 193t, two 018's, a 150tce , a 381 magnum , and a 440 magnum . much louder but I have more power in all of my saws now and I done it the exact way you do it . . just don't let anyone catch you using a saw with no spark arester screen . . big fires can be caused from hot carbon shooting out the exhaust . . as you know . . keep up the good work champ I hope your pelvis is not giving you too much greef ???
is there a muffler gasket on the muffler where it attachres to the bottom of the jug/piston?
yep
Could I have a tatoral on the tree scalding and needed equipment?
good video and plus im looking forward to buying one by November.
Awesome video,👍👍👍👍 Im going to do the same to saw. Thanks for that tip
Question, would a special machined offset key work?
You don’t need the piston stop if you use an actual impact wrench on the clutch side. FYI
i have done the mufler and timing advance and now i feel the saw hesitates slightly when accelerating and also seems to have lost low end torque? anyone have any info
Salut merci pour cette vidéo mais on ne voit pas vraiment ce qu'il y a a faire avec la lime un gros plan aurait était sympa 😅
If your still checking your comments? Quick question.... fairly new 201, did the muffler mod as well as advanced the timing. Saw screams but doesn’t like to idle, any tips?
hey man love the channel I've been running a tree service for the past 1.5 years. so I can relate to the learning curve. I'm glad to see that your passionate about the work, a little determination and passion will take you anywhere you want to go. I do have a question about the mods how do get your high speed screw to rich'in out after the mod. I'm so afraid of breaking the carb trying to take out the stops wants the trick.
Sorry for the delayed response, comment didn't pop up for some reason. On the side of the carb, right above the high side adjustment needle, is a pin that locks the needle in place. You have to drill it out, then the stop will come right out. Can't remember what site it was that showed it being done, likely arboristsite.com, but that's where I saw how to do it.
So is it possible to take off too much of the key and advance the timing too far? Could you please post close ups of the key way to give a better idea how much and where to file?
I don't know how noticeable it would be looking at just the keyway. The way I gauged how much he took off was by watching the flywheel fin on top. You will notice that after the adjustment a fin stops right at a line on the case. Using that as your reference, back up to before the mod, then gauge how far that fin moved. Now that you have a reference to work from, Remove material slowly and check frequently so you don't remove too much.
Use a step drill, it doesn't shred the hole
Thats what i was thinking
What keeps the flywheel from walking ?
The cone shaped matting surface. Once tight, the “key” doesn’t even need to be there.
Would you still get the effect of opening up the muffler without taking away the spark arrest? Don't think it's worth the fire risk during summer.
You would then have to arrest the new hole for fire protection. You still would have improvement but also conform.
Didn't even think of that could be possible to retro fit second spark arrest fiddly but quit do able-have the best of both worlds thanks for the thought, onto it @@unclep1210
Jörund Rundhovde totally worth it.... I don’t recall ever seeing a ember of anything coming out of any muffler of any saw I ever used.... but I have seen the bar and chain spark quite a few times.... where’s the screens for those????
Here in Oregon if a fire starts in the area where you are working and you have a modified saw you will have big problems with ODF
Better way is to elongate the coil mounting holes and not even mess with the flywheel
I like that idea! Thanks!
*I've been wondering how to advance the timing on my stihl 015 that I just custom built. What benefit do you gain from advancing the timing on one of these chainsaws?*
Quicker acceleration off idle, better throttle response and spool up
@@Treeesmith *Yessir, I know this 1st hand now. Advanced the timing on my 015 last week and that combined with the electronic ignition upgrade and port work I did makes this saw a little monster. It looks like a little toy but it's really no joke.*
Great vid !
Move the coil if possible not the flywheel.. I know the taper holds it .but that's nasty.
I was thinking the same thing moving the coil if possible
Can I port the muffler and keep the spark arrester on?
Sure, just pull the spark arrestor out first, drill your port then put the arrestor back in. You can leave it in while drilling the hole but it's like 50/50 on if you screw the arrestor screen up or not. So just pull it out, do your port then put it back.
Modding my 193t can I do it the same way?
What tool did you use to remove the circular exhaust bolts on the bottom of your 201tc
Nice vid. What size drill bit did you use?
I've no clue, just kinda wing it.
Haha looks like a 8mm
does the m tronic require any fuel adjustments after performing the mods? I had to open up the Jets on my 150tc but that is not a mtronic saw. I am not familiar/ignorant with the new saws that have the auto tune stuff. I have a new 201 coming and would like to do these mods. thanks. appreciate you making the video
Everything I've read has said that the carb adjusts itself to the mods, though I've no proof in writing. I can say that my saw is still running like a champ though.
Human good to know. THX
+jacob gilkerson +human In terms of having a machine that is less complex, I prefer not to have the M-tronic system. Not to sound like a doomsday prepper nut, but, in the event of an EMP, the m-tronic system is hosed and the saw is useless.
Rich Asay your comment just made my day. That's funny.
Rich Asay next mod, lead shielding, lmao
It’s possible to do this with a 200t
Can you estimate the increase in power (e.g. %) you got after only the muffler mod? thanks.
About to buy this 700 dollar saw, then mod it.. I'm going backwards in time in your vids...LOL
Is it recommended to tinker with the carb if a large muffler mod is done? Or will it compensate itself enough?
It won’t take much of a carb adjustment after these modifications, but yes it is necessary.
that bothered the shit out of me that you didn't clean up the cut on the clutch cover with your dremel or something. if youre going to do it, do it right
Doing it right in the case of two stroke exhaust modification would be not doing any exhaust modification, unless you have the scale of industry to do it right.
Wow Cory I wish you lived a lot closer to me (Louisiana) I would love to have somebody like you train me to work on my chainsaws.
I clean the screws with alcohol before I put thread locker on
why does my 2012 201t seem harder to pull then the ones in the videos like the pull cord isn't as easy to pull
Not really sure on that one, does it run fine? I will say it is more difficult to start them in the trees, depending on positioning. Often don't have my legs planted firmly for a good base, so it can be quite a pain sometimes.
Human that's probably it...thanks. .but anouter thing it does it revs with chain break is on...it locks the chain but still revs when outhers make that grunting noice??
Might just need a little adjustment on the idle. It's the screw labled (LA), loosening it will bring the idle down, tightening will bring it up. Generally want it set to where the chain will just barely turn at idle, then back off a hair so the chain stops.
Human thanks mate keep up the good work im buying a a ht101 arey good
Absolutely, use the HT 131 all the time, close to the same thing. I will say they do have at least one new model of polesaw coming out in the spring, may want to wait if you're not in dire need of it. Check out the new ones, maybe grab it, or a discounted older version if the new model isn't much better.
They make off set keys for changing the timing.
Hey bud, just wondering if you removed the limiter caps on the 201?
This is the mtronic version so it doesn't have carb adjustment needles.
Great video
Do I have to remove spark arrester?
nope
You will just have to clean it once in awhile. More often than normal
so the german engineers spent years developing the engine geometry and you take a file and move the timing 8 or 10 degrees... did you measure your advance using any technical tools ?? can you measure your power and torque to see if you made anything better ?? the engineers that designed the engine I guess should have called you.... have you a degree in engine design or any science that you are using for these changes ??? do you think the saw engine works better when your done ??? moving timing an unknown amount seems insane to me... especially since you have no way to measure advance or your power curve at rpm or throttle.. maybe would 90 degree advance be even better ??
Engine louder = More Better
@@Human1337 More better = more awesomer! Keep it up, I am having fun watching this stuff
There are certainly improvements that can be done at smoothing intake walls as such process done at the factory would drastically increase the price of the saw. Smoothing the intake makes for more air intake due to less air friction and thus less turbulence in the stream. I do agree that these engines are capable of more power yet more modifications than that require test apparatuses and/or a lot of expertise to do it properly.
What chains do you run ? Or recomend
Any stihl chain, doesn't matter what type. The pre-stretch in them is the best I've yet to see.
@@Human1337 do you hand sharpen, or machine? any interest in reviewing the granberg? i've seen other reviews of it, however i'm curious what your opinion is. i'm thinking of using it on the job for when chains need a little more than a couple strokes.
Can i do this with my ms261c ?
yep
I'm working on a 009 trying to figure out how the wire are to supposed to lay n the housing
nice cuts!
Did you adjust the carburetor to keep the motor from running too rich or too lean?
Jonathan Strange m tronic
I'm working on a 009stihl chain saw need to know how to lay the ignition module coil wires n the housing of the saw please thanks for some help
I can't believe what I see people do
Nice vid.
How many degrees advanced?
I'm super scientific, so I don't even measure. I generally go into the key about 1/4 of it's width. I'd guess in the vicinity of 3-4 degrees.
You gave that plus 10` advance timing by looks of it ( if it didn`t move when you re torqued the crank nut ) ....would love to hear how its been running and what octane fuel you have been burning ?
Will these mods affect reliability of saw or longevity? That's why i haven't done it to my 201 yet.. but now it got stolen...
I've never heard of it shortening the life of a saw. These mods are pretty tame compared to some. You can see a large number of loggers here on youtube running insanely modded saws, and they're running them all day every day.
ruclips.net/video/RLLrjbedghk/видео.html
M tronics nice that you dont have to retune
Absolutely, new 201T is Mtronic, and I just picked up another Mtronic. Wasn't sure about them at first, but sold on them now.
Did you know they make a light version of that 14 inch bar?
The one on there is the standard one, after I wear out this thing I'm looking at the sugihara. Never run one before, but I hear great things about'em.
The sugi looks good might be better designed than stihl i tweeked my stihl on yesterday stupid me
Pantera!!!!!!
Just bought a new one and modded first thing
Professor chainsaw
Professor Cowboy
RE SPECT🤘
Some Boyo this kid
Friggin Hilarious Human!
Is that an atheist "A" on your right arm?
Good videos. I just did my first big maintenance on a saw recently by putting a big bore kit on an old 066.
Correct on the "A", most people think I'm just a huge fan of the angles baseball team....not so much. Though technically I'm agnostic, lean heavily towards atheism. Very nice work on the 066, everything turn out cool? I don't do enough large jobs that I still don't get a little nervous when I go to start them back up. Always wondering, did I forget anything? lol
I'm an atheist myself, that's why I noticed. Respect for getting the tattoo.
I had actually never taken an engine apart when I took apart the 066. My brother started a tree service and we dealt with stuff up to 60", so a big saw was a must. But he burned up the rings, and scored the jug.
The hardest part was actually routing the ignition cutoff wires back properly and getting all of the throttle/choke linkages lined up. Fortunately I didn't forget anything, but I have a video of me firing it up, took some adjusting of the carburetor to account for an extra 6cc. of displacement!
Yeah I used to be Agnostic, but now I believe in the Devil for sure.. Also, many ancient cultures of the world used (and still do) use the hexagram to represent Saturn. And guess what, there is a massive Hexagon on the north pole of Saturn, 4 times the size of Earth... How did they know?
Shit yeah!
Fuck off why don't yous
Tool Tool tooooooooooooooool
good video and plus im looking forward to buying one by November.
Is that nut for flywheel loosen to the left or right?
Flywheel but looses regular, lefty loosey.
Clutches loosen opposite.