Thank you for the video! I did both the muffler mod and the timing advance today on my 193T and it is a completely different saw. I knew the saw had to have more potential than it performed out of the box. This is going to be a fun saw to use now. While working on the muffler I did find that my spark arrestor screen was in terrible shape. Pretty gummed up. Just cleaning that up solved a lot of the bogging issue but I went ahead and finished both mods anyway and I am very happy with it. Better throttle response and more power while cutting bigger limbs.
Yeah, they really come alive with these simple mods. How they should have been from the factory. It doesn't take much to clog up the screen. I check mine whenever I have the clutch cover off for cleaning/bar maintenance. Good work! Glad you're enjoying it.
I like the way you put the marks for reference. I just done a echo yesterday. I wish I would have seen your video before I done it. My flywheel moved almost exactly the same as yours. The test cuts were good also. I will use what I learned from you when I do my cs590 thanks and have a good one from west Tennessee
This is easily the best video currently on advancing timing. I love being able to be certain it remains advanced being you’re torquing in the opposite direction. And measuring and explaining your logic on how much to take without a laser. But could you possibly show how you file in a video? What kind of flat file? Are you using a vice? Are you solely using your eye or have you discovered a way of being more exact in holding a straight line when you file? I used this video and it worked on the first try, but I would still like to see the actual filing process from someone I consider an expert on the subject. Also excellent at making videos.
Ben Hall I appreciate that. It’s a privilege to have access to talented and intelligent people for help on a project. So the 201tc. Would there be much benefit to advancing being you can’t make any adjustments for power? I saw a video on advancing the 661 so I imagine there is some noticeable effect. I wouldn’t touch my 661, but maybe my 461.
@@briankennedy1313 the 201TC most definitely benefits from timing advance. A muffler mod, timing advance, and carb limiter removed for proper tuning makes for a great increase in power/performance for next to nothing invested. With these simple mods, they will at the very least, keep up with a 200T.
@@briankennedy1313 I wish I had a stock vs modded 201t video, but I don't. Here is a 201t with a mild muffler mod and timing advance up against a fully ported 192t. It's amazing how much more pull and throttle response the 201t has over stock. ruclips.net/video/8og2l6d1Cks/видео.html
ive never done saws but getting into it but when i advance timing on my bikes it opposite from what you explained, if your engine turns counter clock wise then advancing timing, ignition would happen before TDC than sooner like how you explained.
Not sure I follow the last part of your statement. On saws, we advance the flywheel counter clockwise on the crankshaft, so it engages the coil sooner in the rotation, and therefore fires even further before top dead center than it did from the factory. It is usually easier to move/advance the flywheel than it is to modify and/or move the coil to achieve the same thing.
@@samishsawworks5870 ok i understand now. Its opposite if you just turn stator then clocking the flywheel. Had to draw a diagram but I understand it now. Thanks
Great video and info! Sir will this mod work on a Stihl MS170? But I don’t think you can adjust a carburetor on that so so if you can’t what carburetor would be a good replacement for it? Thank you.
Thanks for this video. I just did this to my 193t today. Noticable difference doesn't even describe it. It's like a brand new saw. Haven't had a chance to cut with it yet, but I adjusted it the best I could without cutting anything. Props for your videos on carb adjustment too. Very useful. One question, what tach do you use?
It's a little spendy, but well worth it in my eyes. I use it a lot though. It works on 2 & 4 stroke engines. There are many that work well, but I use the DTI Tech-tach TT-20K. I chose it because it has one of the fastest refresh rates. I've had it years now, has held up very well. No issues at all. www.amickssuperstore.com/DTI_2_Cycle_Two_Stroke_Hand_Held_Tachometer_p/dti%20tech-tach%20tt-20k%20tach.htm
Thanks for the great video would this work on a Stihl MS251, i seem to have too much compression hard to pull the starter rope i am thinking the timing may be out of wack, i take the spark plug out and pistons move fine, took the muffler off and piston looks in good shape any help or comment would be appreciated, Thanks
Great informative video, thanks. I have an old 020t with muffler mod, do you know if timing mod works well on these saws as well? Struggling to find the info, I suppose I could just try it but if you have the knowledge it would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance
Honestly, I don't. I know the 191t,192t,193t, & 201t all respond well to a timing advance. I believe most leave a 200t where it's at and don't advance it. That's the best I can do for ya. Good luck on the journey!
Mi exhaust has a big rusted hole, i remove it and thinking about leaving it with no exhaust, i will cut a square in the plastic cover, what you think??
Aside from the first saw I did, I've always done the two modifications together ever since. It seems I remember it needing a small tweak with just the timing advance, but not much. It's been a long time. The muffler definitely plays the biggest part in needing more fuel on the high side.
I have a 193t and the handle recently broke in half. My fault for leaving it under a tree. Wondering if you could make a video on how to replace a Handle assembly on a 193t . Great video BTW
Here's the teardown, should be exact or if not, very close to your 193t. I'll have reassembly video posted later tonight ruclips.net/video/HNFLbDLi8N8/видео.html
Hi Ben . thanks for this great video. I'm very tempted of doing this to my ms192C.... muffler is already done... now you mentioned a small flat file to do the work. would it be possible for you to show that file, or give its dimensions ? and do you file from top to bottom , or from side to center on the key (or bump) . also you mentioned torque specs for the flywheel Do you know what is it for a ms192C ? thanks a lot. .
If looking from the rear of the flywheel you want to remove a portion of the cast in key on the left side, moving from the side of it toward the center. Remove about 1/3 of the key or .020" the flat file I used was about 1/4" wide & 1/16" thick. Any flat file that will fit in there will work though. If you'd like, I can post a more in depth video tonight after work. After going back and watching the video, I realized I was unintentionally vague in that portion of it.
Serious question. Why not just leave the spark arrestor out when you do the muffler mod? Not being smart or anything I'm genuinely curious. I've removed them from certain equipment and noticed it definitely ran better without it
Most areas such as BLM, forest service, city work, military bases, etc all require a spark arrestor to be in place because of the huge potential for fire from sparks in the exhaust. The time of year when most dormant trees are trimmed back is winter and fall when all the dry leaves have hit the ground.
Does this help with running issues or is it strictly a power mod? I've been all over my 192tc and can't find anything causing the dying/choking once warm issue.
So, it has no runnability issues and runs great until it's warm correct? Does it run fine, but won't idle? Or is it having issues under power/throttle.
@@samishsawworks5870 runs and idles fine when cold but starts to bog and loose power once it's war. Acts like water in the fuel but obviously I've made sure that's not it.
@@Fabes002 that info would lead me to believe it has an air leak or low compression, over a fuel/fueling issue. That being said (I'm not sure what you have or havn't done) I would start with low hanging fruit and verify that the fuel filter is good, spark arrestor screen is clean/not packed with carbon and that the fuel tank vent works, & I'd clean/inspect the carburetor. A compression test would also be at the top of my list.
@@Fabes002 could also be a bad accelerator pump although I find it'll usually present itself regardless of the engine is cold or hot www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/200t-carburetor-accel-pump-block-off.238372/
The ms194t is a strato saw. The engine internals are not the same. There are a lot of similarities though and a lot of the same rules apply to all three........the 192t, 193t, & 194t
Could be a number of things, but most common would be a sheared flywheel key/ flywheel spun on the crank. I have an 038 MAG II also. It's stock. It kicks back if I don't pull it through fast enough or with enough force.
I haven't had my hands on one. From what I gather though, it's a slightly increased displacement, updated version of the 193t. So my best guess is yes, it will work. I'm yet to come across one of these "small" displacement saws that didn't benefit from these modifications. Ms170, ms180, ms192t, ms193t, 201t, etc.
On some flywheels yes. With a lot of older Husqvarnas & these smaller stihl saws, the "key" is cast into the flywheel. By removing "an amount" of the cast in key on the flywheel, that's exactly what you are doing. Same thing, you just can't remove this flywheel key to do it like on some saws.
I haven't had my hands on a 194t so I can't comment. That being said, I'm yet to come across one of these "small" displacement saws that didn't benefit from this. Ms170, ms180, ms192t, ms193t, etc.
Thank you for the video! I did both the muffler mod and the timing advance today on my 193T and it is a completely different saw. I knew the saw had to have more potential than it performed out of the box. This is going to be a fun saw to use now.
While working on the muffler I did find that my spark arrestor screen was in terrible shape. Pretty gummed up. Just cleaning that up solved a lot of the bogging issue but I went ahead and finished both mods anyway and I am very happy with it. Better throttle response and more power while cutting bigger limbs.
Yeah, they really come alive with these simple mods. How they should have been from the factory. It doesn't take much to clog up the screen. I check mine whenever I have the clutch cover off for cleaning/bar maintenance. Good work! Glad you're enjoying it.
I like the way you put the marks for reference. I just done a echo yesterday. I wish I would have seen your video before I done it. My flywheel moved almost exactly the same as yours. The test cuts were good also. I will use what I learned from you when I do my cs590 thanks and have a good one from west Tennessee
This is easily the best video currently on advancing timing. I love being able to be certain it remains advanced being you’re torquing in the opposite direction. And measuring and explaining your logic on how much to take without a laser. But could you possibly show how you file in a video? What kind of flat file? Are you using a vice? Are you solely using your eye or have you discovered a way of being more exact in holding a straight line when you file? I used this video and it worked on the first try, but I would still like to see the actual filing process from someone I consider an expert on the subject. Also excellent at making videos.
I can definitely do a video on it. I'll try and get one up soon for ya. Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it.
Ben Hall I appreciate that. It’s a privilege to have access to talented and intelligent people for help on a project. So the 201tc. Would there be much benefit to advancing being you can’t make any adjustments for power? I saw a video on advancing the 661 so I imagine there is some noticeable effect. I wouldn’t touch my 661, but maybe my 461.
@@briankennedy1313 the 201TC most definitely benefits from timing advance. A muffler mod, timing advance, and carb limiter removed for proper tuning makes for a great increase in power/performance for next to nothing invested. With these simple mods, they will at the very least, keep up with a 200T.
@@briankennedy1313 I wish I had a stock vs modded 201t video, but I don't. Here is a 201t with a mild muffler mod and timing advance up against a fully ported 192t. It's amazing how much more pull and throttle response the 201t has over stock.
ruclips.net/video/8og2l6d1Cks/видео.html
Great vid. Still haven’t got around to fixing my 192. But I did pick up an 034 for $50 yesterday. Should be a good project
w3
How would you compare a timing and muffler modded 193t to a stock 201t
Thank you for the video! My saw goes crazy!
What is problem this Stihl chainsaw? I have Stihl 880 and 171 and Stihl FS 560 and Stihl HS 45
Thank u brother🤝 This most informative video about timing advanced with out fucking degree wheel and other tools👌
ive never done saws but getting into it but when i advance timing on my bikes it opposite from what you explained, if your engine turns counter clock wise then advancing timing, ignition would happen before TDC than sooner like how you explained.
Not sure I follow the last part of your statement. On saws, we advance the flywheel counter clockwise on the crankshaft, so it engages the coil sooner in the rotation, and therefore fires even further before top dead center than it did from the factory. It is usually easier to move/advance the flywheel than it is to modify and/or move the coil to achieve the same thing.
@@samishsawworks5870 ok i understand now. Its opposite if you just turn stator then clocking the flywheel. Had to draw a diagram but I understand it now. Thanks
Great video and info! Sir will this mod work on a Stihl MS170? But I don’t think you can adjust a carburetor on that so so if you can’t what carburetor would be a good replacement for it? Thank you.
It will work on the ms170. A Walbro WT-215 is a great choice. Here's a link to how I did mine.
ruclips.net/video/rXnb6PRkyJI/видео.html
PERFECT tutorial. Thank you!!!
Thanks for this video. I just did this to my 193t today. Noticable difference doesn't even describe it. It's like a brand new saw. Haven't had a chance to cut with it yet, but I adjusted it the best I could without cutting anything. Props for your videos on carb adjustment too. Very useful. One question, what tach do you use?
It's a little spendy, but well worth it in my eyes. I use it a lot though. It works on 2 & 4 stroke engines. There are many that work well, but I use the DTI Tech-tach TT-20K. I chose it because it has one of the fastest refresh rates. I've had it years now, has held up very well. No issues at all.
www.amickssuperstore.com/DTI_2_Cycle_Two_Stroke_Hand_Held_Tachometer_p/dti%20tech-tach%20tt-20k%20tach.htm
Oh and good work on the saw! They're actually enjoyable to run after these couple small mods.
@@samishsawworks5870 thanks. I have a cheap tach that has the wire lead. I like how yours is wireless. I'm going to look into it. Appreciate it!
Thanks for the great video would this work on a Stihl MS251, i seem to have too much compression hard to pull the starter rope i am thinking the timing may be out of wack, i take the spark plug out and pistons move fine, took the muffler off and piston looks in good shape
any help or comment would be appreciated, Thanks
Great explanation.
Great informative video, thanks. I have an old 020t with muffler mod, do you know if timing mod works well on these saws as well? Struggling to find the info, I suppose I could just try it but if you have the knowledge it would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance
Honestly, I don't. I know the 191t,192t,193t, & 201t all respond well to a timing advance. I believe most leave a 200t where it's at and don't advance it. That's the best I can do for ya. Good luck on the journey!
Thank you sir!
Good info buddy! Thanks for sharing!👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Excellent video.
Mi exhaust has a big rusted hole, i remove it and thinking about leaving it with no exhaust, i will cut a square in the plastic cover, what you think??
Hey Samish do you have a shop in PNW? Im in the area and would love you to do some work in my 194t
Nice! How much carb adjustment did you have to do after the timing mod? I found that on my MS170 I did not end up having to adjust at all.
Aside from the first saw I did, I've always done the two modifications together ever since. It seems I remember it needing a small tweak with just the timing advance, but not much. It's been a long time. The muffler definitely plays the biggest part in needing more fuel on the high side.
So will this work with a new 194t
I have a 193t and the handle recently broke in half. My fault for leaving it under a tree. Wondering if you could make a video on how to replace a Handle assembly on a 193t . Great video BTW
Sure thing. I'll actually be tearing a 192t down for port work here soon, so I'll do a video on the handle assembly. It should be the same.
Here's the teardown, should be exact or if not, very close to your 193t. I'll have reassembly video posted later tonight
ruclips.net/video/HNFLbDLi8N8/видео.html
Hi Ben . thanks for this great video. I'm very tempted of doing this to my ms192C.... muffler is already done... now you mentioned a small flat file to do the work. would it be possible for you to show that file, or give its dimensions ? and do you file from top to bottom , or from side to center on the key (or bump) . also you mentioned torque specs for the flywheel Do you know what is it for a ms192C ? thanks a lot. .
I found the info for the torque 18Nm or 13.28 ft-lbs
If looking from the rear of the flywheel you want to remove a portion of the cast in key on the left side, moving from the side of it toward the center. Remove about 1/3 of the key or .020" the flat file I used was about 1/4" wide & 1/16" thick. Any flat file that will fit in there will work though. If you'd like, I can post a more in depth video tonight after work. After going back and watching the video, I realized I was unintentionally vague in that portion of it.
@@samishsawworks5870 I think you did pretty good. I got it now. I'm good. thanks you very much cheers
With this hole in the Side,your pants will burn very fast.. when you are 40 feets up in the tree😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Serious question. Why not just leave the spark arrestor out when you do the muffler mod? Not being smart or anything I'm genuinely curious. I've removed them from certain equipment and noticed it definitely ran better without it
Most areas such as BLM, forest service, city work, military bases, etc all require a spark arrestor to be in place because of the huge potential for fire from sparks in the exhaust. The time of year when most dormant trees are trimmed back is winter and fall when all the dry leaves have hit the ground.
Whats the idea of timing advance?
Does this help with running issues or is it strictly a power mod? I've been all over my 192tc and can't find anything causing the dying/choking once warm issue.
These mods are aimed toward performance gains, although it does generally produce a better running saw.
So, it has no runnability issues and runs great until it's warm correct? Does it run fine, but won't idle? Or is it having issues under power/throttle.
@@samishsawworks5870 runs and idles fine when cold but starts to bog and loose power once it's war. Acts like water in the fuel but obviously I've made sure that's not it.
@@Fabes002 that info would lead me to believe it has an air leak or low compression, over a fuel/fueling issue. That being said (I'm not sure what you have or havn't done) I would start with low hanging fruit and verify that the fuel filter is good, spark arrestor screen is clean/not packed with carbon and that the fuel tank vent works, & I'd clean/inspect the carburetor. A compression test would also be at the top of my list.
@@Fabes002 could also be a bad accelerator pump although I find it'll usually present itself regardless of the engine is cold or hot
www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/200t-carburetor-accel-pump-block-off.238372/
thankse this video
I have a 194t thinking about trying this
Do it! Haha. Honestly though, it totally changes them. Just remember it'll need a slight retune on the carb when done. Get after it! ;)
I Don’t Cut in a National Forrest So I Toss Those Pesky Spark Arrestor Screens 😊
Is the ms194t the same thing?
The ms194t is a strato saw. The engine internals are not the same. There are a lot of similarities though and a lot of the same rules apply to all three........the 192t, 193t, & 194t
I have a O38 mag 2 saw that kicks back when i try to start it.
Could be a number of things, but most common would be a sheared flywheel key/ flywheel spun on the crank. I have an 038 MAG II also. It's stock. It kicks back if I don't pull it through fast enough or with enough force.
Do you think this would work with the new 194
I haven't had my hands on one. From what I gather though, it's a slightly increased displacement, updated version of the 193t. So my best guess is yes, it will work.
I'm yet to come across one of these "small" displacement saws that didn't benefit from these modifications. Ms170, ms180, ms192t, ms193t, 201t, etc.
Love mine.. hopefully we see ya build one soon!
What's the point?
Better throttle response, more power, a cooler running saw, etc. There are a lot of benefits.
Ελληνικά δέν εχει ?
Another way to do it with modifying the flywheel is to use an offset key
On some flywheels yes. With a lot of older Husqvarnas & these smaller stihl saws, the "key" is cast into the flywheel. By removing "an amount" of the cast in key on the flywheel, that's exactly what you are doing. Same thing, you just can't remove this flywheel key to do it like on some saws.
Contact us.
Will this same thing work for a 194t
I haven't had my hands on a 194t so I can't comment. That being said, I'm yet to come across one of these "small" displacement saws that didn't benefit from this. Ms170, ms180, ms192t, ms193t, etc.