Terrific video, I watched other videos and I still didn't know how to perform this test, but the way you showed gave so much clarity, thank you very much
Terrific demonstration Danny. Never saw the test performed in that manner with the piece of wire. Will definately try it out on one of my Hondas . Thanks for sharing. 👍. Artie
Understanding a small voltage spike could blow the fuse in your meter (if equipped) or damage its internals. What if a 10amp fuse installed between the negative terminal and the lead to the meter would this provide the protection needed protecting the meter?
Modern cars have computers which take several minutes before they "go to sleep" so you need to know how long you must wait for the ECU to stop drawing power. In my VW, it takes 2 min before the ECU finally stops drawing current.
Hey danny good video, but i have a question i don't understand , first the jumperwire you connenct and later you disconnect the jumperwire for measering. So i think that at that moment the memory get lost? Same with the memory saver first you connect and later you you disconnect?
All the power or current is still flowing as it gets measured through the meter, if connections were lost, such as disconnected meter lead, at that time memory is lost, hope that makes sense
I had trouble finding my parasitic draw so I put on a kill switch. To my mind I bypass the drain. However, I read somewhere that -20°F Canadian winter weather kills the battery. With your technical expertise can you tell me if this is so?
A fully charged battery of 12.6 volts should be able to withstand a cold temperature of about -76 degrees Fahrenheit. The battery can lose about 30 percent of its power when the temperature falls to 32 degrees F and can lose 50 percent when the temperature falls below freezing. A fully charged battery can withstand the temperature about 12 to 24 hours and then will start to drop power until the temperature drop kills the battery and it will freeze. When the battery is below 100 percent charged, the battery electrolyte can start freezing at 32 degrees F. If a battery freezes then the battery case may swell and crack. A cracked case will leak out all or most of the electrolyte fluid when the temperature warms. This will cause battery acid damage to the area of the spill and you will need to have the battery replaced. If the battery did not crack yet, allow the battery to thaw completely, then recharge and test it before use. Winterizing your battery by having the cables cleaned and tested will help prevent problems with the battery when the temperature starts to drop in your area or where you are going. If the battery is weak or failing, then have it replaced now before it leaves you stranded.
yes a thumbs uP!, as you can see by your low number of comments...most viewers are not interested or can not comprehend the technical stuff , or just like to spend money.
Hi. So I disconnected the negative battery post and the negative cable. Now, when i touch one electrode of my multimeter to the negative battery post and one electrode of my multimeter to the negative cable the reading it shows me is O.04 A. Is this ok? Or is it a parastic draw? Because whenever i check my battery voltage in the mornings it shows me 11.94 V.
That would be 40 milliamperes, under 50 is Good, however higher then what I would like to see, make sure you give the modules enough time to fall asleep
The problem of blowing amp meter fuses due to the surge from the battery justifies a $35 clamp amp meter. If your battery is good and dies overnight your drain is at least 1 amp.
I would use a test light. Disconnect negative cable from battery, hook up end clamp of test light to negative cable, then the other side to negative terminal of battery. If test light lights up, we have a parasitic draw. Then, I will start pulling out fuses until light goes out. This will tell me which circuit is drawing too much current. The only issue with this is it wont tell me how much of a current draw. The second option would be to buy a parasitic current draw tester then all I have to do is hook it up to the negative side of battery cable wnd thats it. It will tell me the exact milliamps of current draw. It gets a little confusing with hooking up a paper clip, then hook up multimeter on both sides. Some people can actually blow up their meter, or cause more problems.
Hello, good morning, I am a follower of your channel and I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, Ford mondeo mk2 2.5 v6, one morning the battery was discharged, without knowing how to change the battery, when month or so, the car stopped in full operation, it was as if the electricity had died, stop, giving it and giving it until it started, again as if the battery was without charge, it was only a month old, I changed the alternator regulator , and well, I bought it, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing a few minutes later, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until the battery was discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to him, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less to less , that in a moment the battery goes away, I recharge it, install it, and leave it and connected approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red light of the alarm did not blink, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, it carried out the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself that this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02 amps, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, I have also performed the voltage drop test and it gives 000v both positive and negative, and then what happens to it? I don't even know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Hello Mario From your information, this is not your daily driver, is that correct? This car sits for a month or more? Please reread what you wrote, it’s very confusing
@@Mario14792 I assume the battery is drained and has low or no volts left when this happens, also it's not a connection issue, like loose or corroded cables or grounds, correct? I'm also assume this vehicle sits for days and even weeks, and it is not your daily driver, is this correct? I understand it's a new battery, but sometimes new batteries are bad. I understand you have a 20 milliamp draw, which is very good, however have you used the min max feature on your meter, so you can leave it on overnight and see if you had a current draw spike during that time. if the vehicle just sits, have you tried disconnecting the battery from the vehicle and see if it still goes dead, this would eliminate the vehicle and point towards the battery, have you taken the battery somewhere to get it tested? My guess would be you have a draw, which happens intermittently, this is not un common. This is just my guess, without being in from of the car I can only guess. Please update me when you have a fix
I performed this test on a Nissan Armada and the amperage fluctuates. So the drain goes in a cycle every 26 seconds as such: 14 ➡️ ~24.5 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~21 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~18 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~16 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~15 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~14.3 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~17 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~20 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~24 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~ 25.9 This cycle occurs every 26 seconds. I performed this test 90 minutes after locking and arming the vehicle. The drain is within normal range (the numbers above are in milliamperes), but I wanted to know if the fluctuation was normal ???
Normal, some vehicles take longer for all modules to quit drawing power “to go to sleep” sometimes my element takes 20 minutes other times 90 seconds to get the modules to sleep, great question Thanks for sharing
Danny is a natural born educator. Amazing the amount of talent that lurks on the web.
Appreciate you, I appreciate other RUclipsrs also, usually the 1st place I go to research and product reviews, yeah love youtube also
i have to agree. :)
Danny love how methodical you are in your videos. I learned so much.
I appreciate that! I’ll keep filming if you keep watching 👍🏼
Terrific video, I watched other videos and I still didn't know how to perform this test, but the way you showed gave so much clarity, thank you very much
Appreciate the positive feedback, thank you
This channel needs more views! Very good tutorials, thank you.
I appreciate that!
Thank you
Terrific demonstration Danny. Never saw the test performed in that manner with the piece of wire. Will definately try it out on one of my Hondas . Thanks for sharing. 👍. Artie
Understanding a small voltage spike could blow the fuse in your meter (if equipped) or damage its internals. What if a 10amp fuse installed between the negative terminal and the lead to the meter would this provide the protection needed protecting the meter?
7.5 amp, it must be lower then the meters fuse
@@dannysdiygarage Perfect, thank you for the reply!
That was a good tutorial on figuring out if there is an excessive drain but then what? How do you find out what is doing it?
Thanks
Modern cars have computers which take several minutes before they "go to sleep" so you need to know how long you must wait for the ECU to stop drawing power. In my VW, it takes 2 min before the ECU finally stops drawing current.
Thanks for adding Barry
Hey danny good video, but i have a question i don't understand , first the jumperwire you connenct and later you disconnect the jumperwire for measering. So i think that at that moment the memory get lost? Same with the memory saver first you connect and later you you disconnect?
All the power or current is still flowing as it gets measured through the meter, if connections were lost, such as disconnected meter lead, at that time memory is lost, hope that makes sense
Check out this video ruclips.net/video/rVDgFCz5QOg/видео.htmlsi=7urwv9BkSCPOrZYn
I had trouble finding my parasitic draw so I put on a kill switch. To my mind I bypass the drain. However, I read somewhere that -20°F Canadian winter weather kills the battery. With your technical expertise can you tell me if this is so?
A fully charged battery of 12.6 volts should be able to withstand a cold temperature of about -76 degrees Fahrenheit. The battery can lose about 30 percent of its power when the temperature falls to 32 degrees F and can lose 50 percent when the temperature falls below freezing. A fully charged battery can withstand the temperature about 12 to 24 hours and then will start to drop power until the temperature drop kills the battery and it will freeze.
When the battery is below 100 percent charged, the battery electrolyte can start freezing at 32 degrees F.
If a battery freezes then the battery case may swell and crack. A cracked case will leak out all or most of the electrolyte fluid when the temperature warms. This will cause battery acid damage to the area of the spill and you will need to have the battery replaced. If the battery did not crack yet, allow the battery to thaw completely, then recharge and test it before use.
Winterizing your battery by having the cables cleaned and tested will help prevent problems with the battery when the temperature starts to drop in your area or where you are going. If the battery is weak or failing, then have it replaced now before it leaves you stranded.
yes a thumbs uP!, as you can see by your low number of comments...most viewers are not interested or can not comprehend the technical stuff , or just like to spend money.
i'm guilty
Fantastic informative video sir thanks 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you👍🏼
Hi. So I disconnected the negative battery post and the negative cable. Now, when i touch one electrode of my multimeter to the negative battery post and one electrode of my multimeter to the negative cable the reading it shows me is O.04 A. Is this ok? Or is it a parastic draw? Because whenever i check my battery voltage in the mornings it shows me 11.94 V.
That would be 40 milliamperes, under 50 is Good, however higher then what I would like to see, make sure you give the modules enough time to fall asleep
Dannys DIY Garage thanks.
If supposed to connect jumper to paperclip - why would it blow a fuse? What am I missing? Thanks
The arc, I show it. Sorry I’m not sure I can explain it writing it down
The problem of blowing amp meter fuses due to the surge from the battery justifies a $35 clamp amp meter. If your battery is good and dies overnight your drain is at least 1 amp.
Great tip and thank you for sharing, good advice
great video!
I would use a test light. Disconnect negative cable from battery, hook up end clamp of test light to negative cable, then the other side to negative terminal of battery. If test light lights up, we have a parasitic draw. Then, I will start pulling out fuses until light goes out. This will tell me which circuit is drawing too much current. The only issue with this is it wont tell me how much of a current draw. The second option would be to buy a parasitic current draw tester then all I have to do is hook it up to the negative side of battery cable wnd thats it. It will tell me the exact milliamps of current draw. It gets a little confusing with hooking up a paper clip, then hook up multimeter on both sides. Some people can actually blow up their meter, or cause more problems.
Exactly! That’s why you use a meter, 👍🏼
Thanks for your video
You’re welcome, appreciate the comment
Hello, good morning, I am a follower of your channel and I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, Ford mondeo mk2 2.5 v6, one morning the battery was discharged, without knowing how to change the battery, when month or so, the car stopped in full operation, it was as if the electricity had died, stop, giving it and giving it until it started, again as if the battery was without charge, it was only a month old, I changed the alternator regulator , and well, I bought it, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing a few minutes later, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until the battery was discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to him, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less to less , that in a moment the battery goes away, I recharge it, install it, and leave it and connected approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red light of the alarm did not blink, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, it carried out the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself that this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02 amps, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, I have also performed the voltage drop test and it gives 000v both positive and negative, and then what happens to it? I don't even know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Hello Mario
From your information, this is not your daily driver, is that correct? This car sits for a month or more?
Please reread what you wrote, it’s very confusing
@@dannysdiygarage What do you need me to clarify?
@@Mario14792 I assume the battery is drained and has low or no volts left when this happens, also it's not a connection issue, like loose or corroded cables or grounds, correct? I'm also assume this vehicle sits for days and even weeks, and it is not your daily driver, is this correct? I understand it's a new battery, but sometimes new batteries are bad.
I understand you have a 20 milliamp draw, which is very good, however have you used the min max feature on your meter, so you can leave it on overnight and see if you had a current draw spike during that time. if the vehicle just sits, have you tried disconnecting the battery from the vehicle and see if it still goes dead, this would eliminate the vehicle and point towards the battery, have you taken the battery somewhere to get it tested?
My guess would be you have a draw, which happens intermittently, this is not un common. This is just my guess, without being in from of the car I can only guess. Please update me when you have a fix
What if you have two batteries. And there’s no light in.
Same procedure
I performed this test on a Nissan Armada and the amperage fluctuates. So the drain goes in a cycle every 26 seconds as such:
14 ➡️ ~24.5 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~21 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~18 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~16 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~15 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~14.3 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~17 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~20 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~24 ➡️ 14 ➡️ ~ 25.9
This cycle occurs every 26 seconds. I performed this test 90 minutes after locking and arming the vehicle. The drain is within normal range (the numbers above are in milliamperes), but I wanted to know if the fluctuation was normal ???
Normal, some vehicles take longer for all modules to quit drawing power “to go to sleep” sometimes my element takes 20 minutes other times 90 seconds to get the modules to sleep, great question
Thanks for sharing
yes, way to much initial parasitic current draw