Upgraded Flex Shaft
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2019
- Trying a replacement flexible shaft and rotary hand piece on my 3D Printer!
No more Z axis movement means precision Z axis milling, just what I need to progress with pushing the HyperCube to its limits :)
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► / tech2c
A very special thank you to Patrons:
Zak Gurney Chalmers
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Download the HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC from Thingiverse:
►www.thingiverse.com/thing:175...
►www.thingiverse.com/thing:245...
Metal Rotary Hand Piece:
►www.banggood.com/Foredom-30-H...
Flexible Shaft 1000mm:
►www.banggood.com/1000mm-Elect...
1.5mm End Mill from Banggood:
►www.banggood.com/3_175x1_5x6m...
Buy cheap 3D Printer kits and parts from Banggood:
►goo.gl/bFyz5H
Amazon 3D Printers and Parts:
►amzn.to/2qdTebt
Music: Dj Quads - It just makes me happy 
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The inaccuracy in the cut is due to the endmill's effective diameter. Make a box within a box inlay, and adjust the tool diameter setting in cam until they fit tight.
Thank you for constantly putting out great helpful videos.
Cheers!
Pro trick: you can watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using them for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.
@Luis Phoenix Yea, I've been using Flixzone} for since november myself :)
Cool video. Simple fix for the cut tolerance is to compensate for the runout by cutting a test groove in the material and measure its width, then use that measurement for your tool diameter in CAD.
Very nicely done. 👌
Should the CAD/CAM software account for the tool width to give better dimensional accuracy? BTW another great video - You’re a real gift to the community
Good experiment! The reason that the dimensions are off is compliance/backlash of the 3d printer, it's not stiff enough, and probably run out of the flex shaft. If you compensate for one, the other will mess up the dimensions. I'd see what tool engagement the setup can handle. Lighter cuts should improve compliance. Stiffening up the frame will of course help. If the plywood would've been 6mm, the fit would be snug but easy to assemble at 6.25. If the slots were also 6mm it would be hard to fit the pieces. 6.1 to 6.2mm would be a friction fit. It might be better ti fit a spindle with an er11 collet, 300 to 500w if the frame can handle the weight. Keep up the good work!
Can we have rotary and print nozzle together like dual extrusion then after printing each layer roter trim away excessive edge and layer Height To increase precision ?
Excelent videos! Do you know how much did you spend with the entire Hypercube CNC?
Question : did you measure the concentricity deviation at the Mill?
Nice work :)
This is like the bowden tube of the CNC world !
It's pretty much one of the original uses of bowden cables. 3D printing is the new kid on the block where bowdens are concerned.
Haha nice one
Thanks, good idea!
Maybe add an IV drip stand type thing to hang the rotary tool from. Great modification to an existing printer. Not sure how useful a small print area would be for a lot of projects, but considering I've got almost all the parts already, it's going to be a fun project to mod my printer.
Thanks for the video.
Yeah, hand the rotary bit up high, let it move with the bed...
How does one lubricate the inside of the flex tubing
Yes something to hold it up would be very useful, saves me having to hold the darn thing during milling!
@@haydenc2742 there is a light oil you add to it. It is online, look for:
Foredom Flexible Shaft and Handpiece Lubricant MS10005 Oiler 1 Oz
There is generic also if you think about $5 is too much.
@@Tech2C look for a foredom stand, it will attach to the table and has hooks to hold the motor and shaft up. I just use a bungee from the rafters in my basement over my workbench. I use my foredom for jewelry work but this is basically the same tool in your cnc setup. I will think of making one, very nice.
Hi I am using Dremel 400 and it has a connector size of 19mm with 2mm thread. Will this Flexible Shaft 1000mm be able to fit my Dremel connector male head?
TIA
Very nice video. The main thing I see is you have toothed belts driving your X and Y which are going to have significant backlash. With that setup you can never get much tighter than what your results were unless you only move X and Y in one direction. You're gonna need ball screws for all three axis' and your going need them to all have low backlash.
Thanks for all your videos, fantastic stuff :)
Are you going to try the VBit in the new Flex Shaft with PCB stuff?
I've just ordered the same one you're using, so hopefully it's gonna be able to cope with the tiny Vbits.
Yes that is next video :)
@@Tech2C Great, look forward to it :)
Can it mill aluminium with this configuration? Or it's too much for Dremel?
Nice walk-trough Thanks for sharing :-)
Have you checked the run-out on chuck? Likely that excessive run-out is the cause of your dimension issues.
I would clamp the spindle higher in to the carriage, also I would put a hole in the drill chuck to stop the tool from overhanging so much , to me the difference on sizes has to do with tool and table springing..
might be time to leverage parameters/tables input in Fusion 360 ( rather than manually adjusting each dim) setting up "material thickness" and "cal offset" parameters then using in dims would significantly improve the parts fit
when you exsported the file did you the gcode or did you use the stl file in post process in fusion 360
Hey, Tech2C... good to hear from you again! Thought the wild dogs had hauled you into the outback. We're currently coping with -30C temps in Canada, so I expect you're probably in Broil mode in Ausland. It'd be really interesting to see how well your rig works for making PCB boards. Hope you run a quick test of that. Take care, guy - Charlie
Hi Charlie - Yes, one of the reasons I bought this was for Z axis precision so I can revisit the PCB board creation. I have everything I need now! Oh, it is stinking hot today too. Much prefer cooler weather on days like today 38C. That means there is a 68C delta of temperature between us :O
Hi, can you know use the V- bit ?
white glue and a wider base and the stand is a keeper
This is very soft wood. What about harder materials?
Why did you choose to run it with a dremmel and not a rotary grinder motor?
You could make a stand to hold the dremel up above the printer so it keeps the shaft somewhat straight.
Yes that needs to happen. I have some 2020 extrusion left over - I could bolt it to the printer frame to support the cable.
Do you think you can mill also aluminum with this?
Do you think it would work on an Ender 3? Thanks
One thing they tell you about this shaft is to keep as straight as you can for the best results. You can greas the shaft with vaseline if you like but never let it run into the bearings.
Seems as though your drill-bit is a bit wider than you had configured?
Gotta remove 1/2 the diameter from measurements when using a router bit...but still pretty darn accurate
Notice they were .25mm or 1/2 the diameter of the bit
I just measured the bit. 1.57mm at the widest edge being 2 flute. So subtract 0.07mm from the measurements I made, is a little better but still not perfect.
Question : did you measure the concentricity deviation at the Mill?
cheap chucks have more runout than shitty collets, it all can be compensated for by doing test cuts first anyway
.. have long time no video but I really found your work inspiring thx a gain pro
Hey thanks for sticking around :)
is 6mm shank fit on that chuck?
Tell fusion you are cutting with an endmill with the different of the tool runout you measured. Your tool and holder were not traveling perfectly in axis. The runout results in larger effective cut diameter.
For just cutting, you should try lightburn.
Did you adjust for drill's diameter?
Get a telescopic stand thingie to hold up the Dremmel and keep your shaft cool.
I think for milling a 4 point supported bed would be better. There are many remixes to your Hypercube that do that, I like the ones that use 2 screws for Z on the sides and one circular belt so that just one stepper can be used for Z. You could make a comparison test ...
The HyperCube primarily is a 3D Printer. For 3D printing a cantilevered bed is more than adequate for me, and I like the simplicity and ease of access with a bed supported at one side only. For a CNC the bed should be fixed at the base and the drill would be moving in Z axis. Really this is just for fun to see how far we can go with a 3D printer. Cheers :)
Excelent idea.
Good video man
make your own zesty nimble with this :3
When you show us a product you are reviewing and works for you, you should link it in the description in case the viewers want to buy it? That really would have helped! Thanks.
You could try to make a CNC lathe
Is that a real Foredom handpiece or is banggood selling counterfeits now?
This dimension discrepancy might be caused by the milling tool and/or chuck having too much runout.
Can i know detail fleksibel name?
How much runout and or flex is introduced by the shaft?
There should be none. If the end design is done right, the only affect the cable would have is to catch under load, slowing the rotation of the bit.
Runout could be. I also measured the endmill at 1.57mm diameter so a little larger too.
@@Tech2C That might be a nice topic for a follow up video.
Interesting. I dig how you turned that grinder into a mill. Good work. I have a foredom knockoff on the way to replace my Dremel 4000, can't wait to try it out and blast some glass
Same here, just ordered, did it go well?
Any information you can point to would be appreciated.
@@gloriouspopemantom373 it didnt work and i ended up buying the foredom anyway. took about 6 months to resolve it with banggood. but im super glad, the foredom is amazing.
@@justinsane332
Good you got it solved eventually, I picked EU ebay seller, wont be too terrible with the returns.
@@gloriouspopemantom373 hopefully the thing works! mine would only turn in one direction and after running for id say two minutes in the other direction, died completely. these things are awesome as long as you get one that works. Id recommend buying a nice handpiece, the one that came with mine isnt great. The cheap version of the quick release handpiece I bought as well, and surprisingly, Id recommend that one.
@@justinsane332
Thanks for the suggestions.
Well find out soon wont we, fingers crossed. I got the one direction only but with 6mm chuck so I can use regular drill brushes from the hardware store.
You say you bought cheap handpiece, how would I go about finding that one, sounds like something to get, serial? name?
good job
Is Fusion 360 free for non commercial use?
Great new check setup!
Fusion 360 is free for non-commercial use and startups with low amount of business, one year licenses given at the moment. For educational use they give 3 year licenses for free I think. As that is time based licence, you never know what the situation is after another year ie. if you get a new one next year or if they change policy.
Ooo new video :D
What's the RPM?
Nice rig! That's clearly a counterfeit Foredom hand-piece. I wonder if they are knocking off just the accessories, or the entire Foredom line. Those bits and bobs can get pricey.
I'm not sure, but you are probably correct they are not original accessories. I was just glad it worked first go.
@@Tech2C I have a genuine Foredom tool and it looks a lot different than what I'm seeing in this video. Mine is very old though. The flex shaft is not built to run at full Dremel speed either. Foredoms run at 18,000 RPM. At least mine does.
what exactly is RAMP: 1mm?
Ramp is the amount that the tool digs in using a spiral pattern when it enters the work.
Seems as if you were cutting the edges of these parts relative to the center of your milling bit, instead of cutting along the outside perimeter of the parts relative to the radius of the bit. (Don't know if I'm right, I think you already considered that)
Yeah thought so as well, either that or the width of the bit is off a tiny bit. I mean all outside measurements come out about 0.2-0.3 mm to small, and inner measurements are to big by about the same amount.. I guess increasing the bit diameter by 0.1 mm in the software could already fix it?
@@olympian98It could simply be runout on the chuck.
Fusion is taking the diameter into account, and cutting half the diameter into the waste. I just measured the diameter of the 2 flute endmill I was using - 1.57mm. So it is a little wider than programmed into Fusion. That will help a bit but not fully account for the mismatch. So maybe it's runout for the rest.
@@Tech2C but also the plywood is not 6 mm it is 5.65mm ish
@@Tech2C Fusion should be putting the full diameter of the cutter into the waste, not half.
Is that you Markus Fuller, i´m watching your Synth vids for years, few days ago i found this channel about cnc and so, and now i recognise Markus´ Voice. At least i think so :) Let me know :D
Your excess movement was because of starting bit on the line, so you gain half the bit diameter for clearance.
Aluminium?
The Shifte is a kozott shiftr
you dont want any bend giving friction on your shaft without any lube..
Focus you fack ... wait, wrong channel :D
Hi Richo 👋
You wont get a proper temperature reading from the aluminum body due to its poor emissivty. Try a strip of black vinyl electrical tape on the area where you want to take your measurement.
What about aluminium?
Is that,a fake or a real Dremel?
Mantul bos
You can't use words like "flexible shaft" and "milling" in same video.. :P
We need more video plzzz
Ok
👍
Now three years later, they want $30.00 for what was $10.00 in 2019 for that made in China flexible shaft.
Might want to add some lube to the flex shaft.
do a 20mm test cube then dial it in
That would be the appropriate method but I am impatient! Just do it!
The bit is running out by .11, add that much to the tool diameter in the cam. The bit is bent, oversize from what you put in the cam, or that handpeice is bad causing it.
Depending on whether you are doing climb or conventional milling, the endmill will be pulled toward or pushed away from the work piece. The machine has little rigidity so it will allow this movement.
This is likely why your dimensions are off. It is not that the endmill is larger than specified.
Does it matter which to use if the end-mill is cutting directly into the material, rather than from an edge? The end-mill is still surrounded in material regardless?
@@Tech2C As far as I know, that does not change anything. You could quickly test this out by asking Fusion 360 to make the exact same cuts but conventional milling instead of climb milling. If you also want to compare slotting to contour milling you would have material for a whole video on the subject :-)
The alternate theory is that the larger slot is caused by run out. There is probably some of that too.
Think of it this way: The cutter is surrounded by material on all sides, except behind, where it already did the cut. The cutter is rotating clockwise so the forces are counter clockwise. This missing forces behind the cutter means the forces will not cancel out. The front is pushing towards the left but there is nothing pushing to the right behind the cutter.
I would say that plus run out from the chuck. Collets are generally more precise than chucks. Maybe put a dial gauge against the mill shaft and check how much run out is there.
Lol the way you say rotary makes me laugh
12:20 ... You forgot to ware a condom !!! That is unacceptable !
Why were you pronouncing rotary as "ro-tary"??
and i thought carbon fiber is harder and more rigid than steel :)
that's a carbon fiber tube, not a solid rod
@@alessiosuppo561 you mean we will have minor oscillations?
The carbon fiber tubes have a better strength to weight ratio but the steel rods are stronger
It's starting to bug me as much as the metrication in the UK versions of the Mythbusters narration:
"Around 19mm" is 3/4 inch!
"Just over 2.5mm" is 1 inch"
"3.2mm" is actually 3.175mm - 1/8 inch!
Thankfully only a fraction of the world is using that horrid system ;)
"fraction of the world" - I see what you did there...
"I see what you did there..." :D lovely...
@@JoranGroothengel There's two kinds of countries in the world. Those that have sent men to the Moon and the rest that use metric.
thise are called ball dedents not ball baring
Weird flex but ok
You can call it a Dremel. It gets kind of annoying when you keep saying "Rotary Tool" so much
Or, now hear me out... You learn how to actually do cam and realize that your cam is most likely incorrect...
Weird flex but ok