Just wanted to make a quick mention. Swivel casters require a circle to pivot around when they change direction. For projects that have a swing out design with a fixed pivot on hinges you really want to use rigid casters that are mounted perpendicular to the pivot point. They will always be tangent with the arc of travel and don't require rotating around the swivel pivot when changing direction so they don't bind up like swivel casters can.
The advice I was given in a (sorta) similar situation was to anchor a 2x4 to the concrete wall, and then mount the hardware to the 2x4. That way you can use shims where necessary to make sure the 2x4 is plumb if the wall is not. Plus you can have the 2x4 resting on the floor so that supports most of the load instead of relying totally on the anchors. Worked like a charm and is still solid as a rock after 7 years.
When you're using a hammerdrill, don't bear down like you would drilling metal or wood. Hammer drills don't cut away the concrete (that's why they don't have sharp, heavily spiraled teeth on the tip). The hammer action breaks up the concrete and the flutes pull it out, if you bear down on the hammer drill it can't properly reset for the next "hammer" impact, so it doesn't hammer effectively so it doesn't break off concrete and you just end up slowly grinding it away.
Marc I am really enjoying this slightly new format. No Voiceover more interactive face-to-face camera work. Just thought you should know it’s really nice. I watch everything you make but this one really had a cool vibe
I can just imagine a TapCon rep watching this and being like “oh awesome he’s using our screws. Let’s reach out to be a sponsor sometime!” Then a minute later “screw you!” 🤣 Loved the video!
“This should be simple” ***4 hours and multiple mistakes later*** “DONE!” Story of my life lol. Love this idea though. I might do this in the next shop where I have space. Thanks, Marc!
Great idea going vertical! I made a version of your horizontal storage cart for my own shop. My floor is horribly uneven, but instead of a spring loaded caster, I used a half-barrel gate hinge that allowed for variability in the swing. Basically the wall isn't holding anything up, just providing an anchor point for swing. Love the mistakes and workarounds in this video too!
Thanks for sharing the idea ,I am going to use a L bolt and EYE bolt as my hinge point so it will have enough slop that it will not bind when it swings as my garage shop floor has a slope to drain.
Just a tip I use tap cons daily and running the bit in and out a few times after I drill the hole helps a lot also not impacting it real hard while driving the screw works well. Love you’re content thanks for the videos!!
As a nearly weekly tapcon user, I second this pro tip. Also an sds makes drilling way more betterer. But clearing the holes a few times with the bit is the real deal.
I've been using Tapcons for over 30 years hanging electrical equipment, and it can be a bit of a learning curve. But they have an incredible resistance to pull out when installed in concrete.
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I'm loving that you included all the background around the Crapcon situation. Makes you more relatable to those of us who run into these hurdles woodworking or just regular home DIY/repair. The wood demi-god is also partially human. ;)
Thank you for being so honest and sharing your experience. Ignore the thumbs down people. You’ve sold over 1,000. What have they sold? ZERO. I will definitely make these.
Hello Mr Wood whisperer, I've learned to use anchors on top of masonry screws. Drill a 1/4 hole designated for special masonry anchor, place the anchor at the end of the screw, hammer it in the hole, and send her home with an impact driver
I use a little scrap block of Beech for marking where screws go. In cross-section is shaped like a "shiplap", the rebate on one side is cut at 9mm (half of 18mm stock, your 3/4) and the one on the other side is cut at 6mm (half of 12mm stock, your 1/2) the block is 25mm wide (1 inch) for marking the distance in from the edge for the first screw, and the block is 300mm long (12 inch) for marking the space between each screw. I sit the rebate against the edge and scribe my center line for whatever thickness stock im using, use its width to mark the first an last screw, and use its length to mark the screws in between :)
Kinda happy to see you make the same mistakes we mere mortals make - and you're not afraid to show it. This is a cool project and should also spawn some ideas on for variations to accommodate specific shop circumstances.
Great cart idea. I just finished setting up my new 3 car garage shop, minus my old plywood cart. This is the design I'm going to clone. Thanks for the inspiration. Also, I build homes and use "Blue Screws" often. I've had them break frequently and eventually decided that it was all about the amount of the screw in the concrete. Going with the shorter screw was the correct choice. As soon as I saw the screws you were using I thought, those are going to break. Good on you for your powers of deduction, and for solving your problem.
I was surprised that the Tapcon screws broke for you. I've used them for securing walls to my cement basement floor and they worked great 10+ years ago. Still fastened to this day.
Drill the hole as big as the screw major diameter and stick a piece of stranded copper wire in the hole, then drive the screw. Holds just fine with no broken screws.
So much Tapcon hate here. I've used them a lot and had great success over the years. In most cases, they are the simplest and/or best solution. A few things I've learned: Always use the bit diameter the box says to use. Always drill a good bit deeper than the length of the screw- 1/2" at least. And always run the bit back and forth/ up and down multiple times in the hole to help clear it out.
I think the hate is warranted when so many people are following the manufacturer's instructions and getting broken screws for it. They should really update the instructions to make sure people have success with their product.
Marc...perhaps putting a hinged pieced mounting point that would be perpendicular to the hinges that are secured to the wall would allow for the variance....or add more hinges if it is a concern....Miley cyrus could swing on that thing you made just fine
You are a hoot. Don't ever leave your humor out. The storage cart is a great idea. I have the same issue in my shop that something like this will solve. Thanks for the video. Ken
I pretty much break one tapcon during each project. Drill each hole with the same bit to the same depth. Yet one out of the 6 will break. I’ve learned over the years never over tighten and always drive in one smooth motion. No stops and starts. These steps help minimize issues.
Crapcon pretty much says it all. Your experience is the same as mine. Eventually got them to work, but you might as well drill oversize holes and put epoxy on the screw.
I’ve had only the exact same outcome with those masonry screws! I have a box that I’ll never use, because they’ve snapped every time I’ve tried to use them!!!
Hey Marc I love the compact design, good choice for my one car shop. By the way there is a special driver, basically a hollow tube that slides over the bit with sockets on either side and is designed to cam out when the tapcon hits home.
Mark I feel your pain when it comes to Crapcon. I'm a remodeler and have used them only once. Just once convinced me they were no good. Plenty of other anchoring solutions. Another excellent video. thanks so much for all you do for us amateur woodworkers
Sweet project Marc! I have a ton of plywood sitting in the corner of my shop. I really need to figure out a solution like this that fits my space. I love the modularity of this design and the hinges and casters are a clever addition (even if the screws were a pain).
Love this version for your space needs Marc. My modified original version still works great to this day in the garage. So glad you covered the tapcon stuff - I definitely would have the same knowledge gaps.
Great build!!! I made a horizontal version myself about 20 years ago but left it behind when we moved 8 years ago…I had been thinking of a vertical version…I think this video pushed me into the right mindset to finally clean up my mess. Thank You! Suggestion: those of us in earthquake territory should fashion some kind of latch to tether it in the closed position.
Tapcons definitely have a learning curve. I found that out installing hundreds of them for my basement subfloor. I bought a rotary hammer drill which was so much nicer than using a hammer drill. So would recommend to anyone that has more than a few tapcons to install to invest in this tool. Your other tip about making sure to drill far enough is right on as that dust in the hole will snap the screws off like nobody's business. I also ream out the hole as well just to make sure there is nothing that will grab the screw and then use an impact driver. If you only have a few to do then I guess doing them by hand is fine.
Rotohammer is the only way to go. Those SDS drill bits go through masonry like butter. When I got mine, I had fun just finding rocks in the yard and drilling holes in them.
Great project! For a project that swings around a pivot point, I use non-swiveling wheels instead of swiveling ones. Install them with the wheel's axis pointing toward the pivot point. I like the ideas of using a loose hinge to allow the cart to follow the slope of the floor.
Thanks @Bob T252. I followed your advice and used two fixed wheels just as you say, one on each end. They look weird, but worked like magic. Also loose hinge for the floor slope. Nice!. Very good advice, thanks.
Thanks for leaving the goofs in. Not glad they happened to you but it’s easy to think that these things only happen to us and not to the experienced woodworking gurus.
With regards the masonry screws.. nylon plugs (Fischer or Rawl being the best) are what's commonly used in the UK. Generally give a very good hold without too many problems.
I have a love/hate relationship with tapcons. When the concrete has its little pebbles in just the right places (i.e. not where the hole goes), they're great... and when the concrete isn't being friendly, you wind up with screws that don't go in all the way, but also that don't come out. Gotta try the wax idea.
I was having the same problem getting Crapcons to work in my wall. I solved it by using the .22 caliber floor stud gun. Not only did it solve the problem, but for about an hour the shop smelled like gunpowder. Good Times!!
I have purchased the plans and started cutting the plywood. I am thinking on making the front subassembly first, so I don't have to swap subassemblies three times on my workbench. I think I will build the front, put it down, build the back, flip it, and then put the front on top. Because of my shop layout, hinges have to go on the left side, so I need to be careful on reversing the design! I hope I don't make too many mistakes! LOL.
Great one, Marc! And you nailed it in the end with the Tapcons... use the shortest screws possible, over drill by at least a half inch and blow out the holes. Lube is usually not required, unless you are feeling saucy.🤣🤣
Tapcons break a lot in solid concrete, as floors frequently use a very high-strength mix. They work like a dream in concrete block or less hard concrete. I've found it's better to drill deeper than you need because 1) the tip hitting a solid part is insta-breakage, 2) the extra depth gives a little bit of room for the swarf created by the threads to evacuate
Great video and I appreciate the inclusion of your “learning opportunities”, which are often the most instructive moments. like the cart a lot and have built many similar pieces, but I can’t imagine why you’d want to limit its mobility by permanently pinning a corner to the wall. I prefer a slightly wider base with four free wheels, which enables me me to move it anywhere in my shop. Then a screw eye on each end of the cart and nearby wall, fastened with carabiners, and I have the ability to fix the cart against the wall with one or two points for more options. I have major tool-envy, FYI!
I've gotten to the point where I really hate using and don't trust tapcons any longer. One thing that I found that works pretty well as long as there's not a ton of weight being held, is a combination of deep (or long) pop rivets and construction adhesive (maybe silicone caulk) on the back of the item that's being attached to the masonry.
I'm impressed. Even after using about 1000 tapcons I've never snapped one! Mostly just from feel but later on when I got my first brushless Fuel Impact I would use the selftapping setting for tapcons.
@@woodwhisperer There's a torque rating in the instructions. I admit I've never read that part before but I'm surpised at how much lower the 1/4" is to the 3/8" in tolerance.
You should have put the bolts in the spring caster in the opposite direction (from inside, with the nuts installed on the outside). The way you installed them is going to result in damaged plywood pieces. Better yet, replace the regular bolts with carriage bolts, so you don't have any intruding hardware to tear up your plywood pieces.
Nothing is better for anchoring into concrete than plugs and screws. I've have been installing commercial storefronts for over thirty years and Tapcon screws often don't work and in many cases are prohibited from use. They are also susceptible to rust and breakage due to moisture which is ever present in concrete.
I've always had good luck with Tapcons. I agree that your pre-drilled holes in the concrete are just a tad too shallow, as you pointed out, causing the Tapcons to break from over torquing. Always drill your holes at least 25% deeper than the screw length. If you drill them a tad too big in diameter and the screw slips in the hole, there is a simple fix... a great tip I got was to slide a piece of wire into the hole first (maybe even double it up). Takes up the extra space. :)
I’ve looked up and down for solid wood storage for my crappy one car garage… found it! Really this isn’t too long nor is it too high. I have one spot that is useless in my garage because it’s such a tight spot (the outer wall where my garage door meets) and currently all of my scraps are just semi propped against that wall or lying flat on the ground which is no good. In fact I think I have a mouse living in the pile of scraps 🤦🏽♀️ I’ll probably have to make my version thinner however I couldn’t ask for a better solution beyond building a shed and I just don’t store plywood sheets that often so it’s fine. I loved ShopNation’s faux wall/french cleat that hid his storage of ply but I need mine clear off the ground. There was another one that was cool called the “Mohawk” of wood storage, it was off the ground, ply sheets in the back and off cuts in the front, hence the name but it has to be bumped out so far I couldn’t fit my car in. Thanks so much, I can’t wait to build one and remove the hiding spot for the intruder 🐁
Thanks Marc, nice design. I have built mine following your plans. I made some adjustments, though. I followed @BOB T252 and @x65535x advice and used two non-swiveling casters with the axis pointing toward the pivot point, one on each end. They sure look weird when installed, but work like magic. Also untightened the screws of the hinge a bit, wood side, to let the unit accommodate for the light floor slope. And finally, used plastic anchors for the concrete wall, which I have always used and know very well. Thanks again, great and very useful project!
OMG...Thank you for leaving in your "mistakes/changes" that you had and for all the funny stuff also. Again you inspire and Crack me up like no one else can....thank you for the great video! 🙃 P.S. You and John, working together could be a sitcom (..."It's a show about nothing?!?"...."That's Gold Jerry!").
Not a Tapcon pro, but have learned that overdrilling, plus being gentle with those final snugs using an impact driver have helped avoid the heads snapping off. When they do, just use the same drill bit and drill it again somewhere between the concrete and the side of the screw. Seems wonky to basically drill partially into the existing screw body, but it drills pretty easy, even with the masonry bit and the next screw goes in well every time and feels just as strong. That way you don't have to move your whole project (sometimes you just can't), and you don't risk having even worse luck in your second location.
Yea, tapcons are awesome when Installed properly. They don't need to be put in by hand but you do need to be careful how much torque you use once you start to feel resistance. And yes you need to have all the dust out of the way, you can still strip holes drilled and concrete just like you can strip holes drilled in wood. Not bad for a first timer.
alternate awesome, ultra, extraordinary way to mark for screws,,, scribe a line half the thickness of the material your attaching to,,, no guessing where you put them screws,, see line, drill hole, drive screw,,, if you are nailing instead of screwing,,, "pro tip",,, staggering above/below line is the best way to go,,, when stagger nailing or stitch nailing angle the nailer a couple degrees shooting back towards the center of the attaching panel and eliminate there chance blowing through the side of the panel and as a bonus feature you will increase pullout resistance of the total row of nails. In general we nail plywood, screw MDF and staple osb,,
Yeah, Tapcons are a little tricky. I had busted off a head as well before I stopped using my impact driver and instead used my standard lower torque drill driver to screw them in. Something they don't tell you at Tapcon school. 😉 Great little project!
I live in an old house (80+ years) with a poured concrete basement. Previous owners had attached all kinds of things directly to the concrete walls and had installed and later removed walls that were fastened to the floor. This resulted in many breaches of the concrete floor and walls, which, over time, has resulted in erosion and leaks when we have torrential rains (and occasional flooding). So over the past 5 years, since buying the house, I've been working to find and seal those leaks - which is a major pain. I'm in the process of constituting a woodshop in that same basement, and won't breach the concrete at all - for anything. Instead I'll drop studs down from the floor joists and attach to those. Where load is a consideration, I'll drop the studs onto free standing precast concrete deck blocks and engineer my way around having to breach any part of the foundation. I recommend against - in all cases no matter how new or old your house might be, to avoid breaching basement/foundation walls and floors. Water finds a way and over time, becomes the enemy.
Hey Marc, just a tip for the concrete screws. It does help to really clean the holes out well with the drill but, but TapCons are still NOT my favorite concrete screw. Try GRK Caliburns in the future, and I guarantee you’ll never want to use the blue screws again.
First time commenting long time viewer. Just wanted to add some insight from Europe. Never seen these “tapcons” before, seems like a weird solution to me honestly. For masonry/concrete (which is basically every wall ever for us 🙂) we drill oversized holes and use specialized plugs (different plugs for different materials, brick, concrete, aerated concrete etc.). This is usually stronger than needed. Only downside is when drilling in softer stone the hole can get oversized, which compromises the connection. In ye olde times they just filled the holes with dowels instead of plugs.
Great video, Marc~! I have been searching for a solution to organize my plywood sheets & cutoffs. I want to keep mine vertical too and this looks pretty good. Thanks~!
As a tip, when you were lining up your hinges to mark the holes you said that you have a wonky surface on your concrete so you want the barrel of the hinge behind the cart. Based on the orientation of the hinges, to make sure they are on dead square, wrap the other plate of the hinge all the way around to lay flat against the back and it will ensure that they are on parallel to each other. Also take a level to your wall where the other side of the hinge goes and mark the wall so when you attach it, any unevenness in your floor doesn’t translate to wheels not making contact; not to mention possibly pivoting out by itself if it’s off level. Great job on the cart though!
Yeah anything that relies on the threads grabbing the concrete is going to suck. Concrete is great in compression and terrible in tension. And screw threads are relying on tension of the concrete to stay put. I always look for fasteners where there's a sleeve of soft metal that is the exact same diameter as the hole you're drilling. Then the screw creates pressure all around the interior of the sleeve, creating a force fit that relies solely on compression. If you're in a situation where weather isn't a big consideration you can actually do kind of the same thing by just hammering a dowel into the hole and using a really undersized pilot hole for a regular wood screw. I'd actually trust that more than the Crapcon.
I like the idea on doing this vertically. I have really tall ceilings in the small shop, and made a horizontal plywood card because it fits by the door opening. Thinking about it I can just move other tools to that area, and then move this a little further back into the shop where I have the height.
@@thomashajicek2747 I laugh 14' ceilings in the garage and the rest of the house is short. Hit my head going down the stairs all the time if I'm in a hurry.
I hate tapcon screws. I am hanging cabinets on cement blocks wall. What I do is: Drill a 3/8 of an inch and push into a wooden dowel 3/8 of an inch and use any regular screw. Of course first need to drill 1/8 hole on the cabinet and hang it temporarily on the wall and mark the holes with a small concrete drill bit.
I always enjoy your videos. I am so glad you decided to invest a little more on RUclips. Thanks for the amazing content. If you need to attach something to a concrete wall just get in contact with a South African. We will show you how.
you need to put shims between the top hinge and concrete wall so that the wheel on the outer end sits on the floor i saw you had to push back the rack a little i think your concrete is not plumb
Get the plans! thewoodwhisperer.com/product/space-saving-plywood-cart-plan/
Just wanted to make a quick mention. Swivel casters require a circle to pivot around when they change direction. For projects that have a swing out design with a fixed pivot on hinges you really want to use rigid casters that are mounted perpendicular to the pivot point. They will always be tangent with the arc of travel and don't require rotating around the swivel pivot when changing direction so they don't bind up like swivel casters can.
@@x65535x Did mine exactly like that, using only 2 fixed casters.. Casters look weird when installed but work like magic. Thanks!
The advice I was given in a (sorta) similar situation was to anchor a 2x4 to the concrete wall, and then mount the hardware to the 2x4. That way you can use shims where necessary to make sure the 2x4 is plumb if the wall is not. Plus you can have the 2x4 resting on the floor so that supports most of the load instead of relying totally on the anchors. Worked like a charm and is still solid as a rock after 7 years.
When you're using a hammerdrill, don't bear down like you would drilling metal or wood. Hammer drills don't cut away the concrete (that's why they don't have sharp, heavily spiraled teeth on the tip). The hammer action breaks up the concrete and the flutes pull it out, if you bear down on the hammer drill it can't properly reset for the next "hammer" impact, so it doesn't hammer effectively so it doesn't break off concrete and you just end up slowly grinding it away.
Marc
I am really enjoying this slightly new format. No Voiceover more interactive face-to-face camera work. Just thought you should know it’s really nice. I watch everything you make but this one really had a cool vibe
Thanks for the feedback!
Agreed! I do enjoy all of Marc’s content, but these have been a nice variation.
I can just imagine a TapCon rep watching this and being like “oh awesome he’s using our screws. Let’s reach out to be a sponsor sometime!” Then a minute later “screw you!” 🤣
Loved the video!
hahahahahahahahahhahaha
“This should be simple”
***4 hours and multiple mistakes later***
“DONE!”
Story of my life lol. Love this idea though. I might do this in the next shop where I have space. Thanks, Marc!
This was actually really nice to see a more “shop quality” build, since this is the level a lot of us are at for most things we make.
Great idea going vertical! I made a version of your horizontal storage cart for my own shop. My floor is horribly uneven, but instead of a spring loaded caster, I used a half-barrel gate hinge that allowed for variability in the swing. Basically the wall isn't holding anything up, just providing an anchor point for swing. Love the mistakes and workarounds in this video too!
Thanks for sharing the idea ,I am going to use a L bolt and EYE bolt as my hinge point so it will have enough slop that it will not bind when it swings as my garage shop floor has a slope to drain.
Just a tip I use tap cons daily and running the bit in and out a few times after I drill the hole helps a lot also not impacting it real hard while driving the screw works well. Love you’re content thanks for the videos!!
As a nearly weekly tapcon user, I second this pro tip. Also an sds makes drilling way more betterer. But clearing the holes a few times with the bit is the real deal.
I also find that my impact on the sheet metal setting gets tight, but not over-tight
I've been using Tapcons for over 30 years hanging electrical equipment, and it can be a bit of a learning curve. But they have an incredible resistance to pull out when installed in concrete.
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Yeahhhh baby
The notification worked! Could you put a cup o slab there too?
I'm loving that you included all the background around the Crapcon situation. Makes you more relatable to those of us who run into these hurdles woodworking or just regular home DIY/repair. The wood demi-god is also partially human. ;)
Thank you for being so honest and sharing your experience.
Ignore the thumbs down people. You’ve sold over 1,000.
What have they sold? ZERO.
I will definitely make these.
Hello Mr Wood whisperer, I've learned to use anchors on top of masonry screws. Drill a 1/4 hole designated for special masonry anchor, place the anchor at the end of the screw, hammer it in the hole, and send her home with an impact driver
Loving this style of videos. It’s relaxed and that’s exactly how my projects go. You plan, but you have to adjust as you go
*Chapter Guide*
0:00 - Intro
0:52 - Cutting the Plywood
3:47 - Assembly
9:45 - Casters
10:46 - Attaching Hinges
12:17 - TapCons
13:40 - Caster Issue
15:09 - TapCons Take 2
16:43 - Gate Caster
17:43 - Load it up!
@@thomashajicek2747 Now that's funny.
I use a little scrap block of Beech for marking where screws go. In cross-section is shaped like a "shiplap", the rebate on one side is cut at 9mm (half of 18mm stock, your 3/4) and the one on the other side is cut at 6mm (half of 12mm stock, your 1/2) the block is 25mm wide (1 inch) for marking the distance in from the edge for the first screw, and the block is 300mm long (12 inch) for marking the space between each screw. I sit the rebate against the edge and scribe my center line for whatever thickness stock im using, use its width to mark the first an last screw, and use its length to mark the screws in between :)
Kinda happy to see you make the same mistakes we mere mortals make - and you're not afraid to show it. This is a cool project and should also spawn some ideas on for variations to accommodate specific shop circumstances.
Great cart idea. I just finished setting up my new 3 car garage shop, minus my old plywood cart. This is the design I'm going to clone. Thanks for the inspiration. Also, I build homes and use "Blue Screws" often. I've had them break frequently and eventually decided that it was all about the amount of the screw in the concrete. Going with the shorter screw was the correct choice. As soon as I saw the screws you were using I thought, those are going to break. Good on you for your powers of deduction, and for solving your problem.
I was surprised that the Tapcon screws broke for you. I've used them for securing walls to my cement basement floor and they worked great 10+ years ago. Still fastened to this day.
Drill the hole as big as the screw major diameter and stick a piece of stranded copper wire in the hole, then drive the screw. Holds just fine with no broken screws.
So much Tapcon hate here. I've used them a lot and had great success over the years. In most cases, they are the simplest and/or best solution. A few things I've learned: Always use the bit diameter the box says to use. Always drill a good bit deeper than the length of the screw- 1/2" at least. And always run the bit back and forth/ up and down multiple times in the hole to help clear it out.
I think the hate is warranted when so many people are following the manufacturer's instructions and getting broken screws for it. They should really update the instructions to make sure people have success with their product.
Marc...perhaps putting a hinged pieced mounting point that would be perpendicular to the hinges that are secured to the wall would allow for the variance....or add more hinges if it is a concern....Miley cyrus could swing on that thing you made just fine
You are a hoot. Don't ever leave your humor out. The storage cart is a great idea. I have the same issue in my shop that something like this will solve. Thanks for the video. Ken
Great little project. I mainly use wall plugs when fixing to concrete. Works a treat.
Love the videos.
I built your original one and serves me well many years later. Thanks Marc!
I pretty much break one tapcon during each project. Drill each hole with the same bit to the same depth. Yet one out of the 6 will break. I’ve learned over the years never over tighten and always drive in one smooth motion. No stops and starts. These steps help minimize issues.
Crapcon pretty much says it all. Your experience is the same as mine. Eventually got them to work, but you might as well drill oversize holes and put epoxy on the screw.
rawl plugs FTW. ;)
as an englishman who has always lived in brick houses welcome to my world of wall drilling... :P
Great idea and really appreciated that you left in all the things that didn't go perfect. It makes for a way better video.
I made and still use your original design. Love it
I’ve had only the exact same outcome with those masonry screws! I have a box that I’ll never use, because they’ve snapped every time I’ve tried to use them!!!
Always use raw plugs in concrete. Nice job on the storage cart. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Marc I love the compact design, good choice for my one car shop. By the way there is a special driver, basically a hollow tube that slides over the bit with sockets on either side and is designed to cam out when the tapcon hits home.
So glad I'm not the only woodworker to break numerous Tapcon screws during a project.
Love your humor and honesty. Great video. Crapcons are not a woodworkers friend!
13:18 LMAO. 40 year professional tradesman here and I feel the same way. I mount things to concrete all the time and never have any luck with Tapcons.
Just looking for ideas for something like this in my own smaller shop. Good timing!
Mark I feel your pain when it comes to Crapcon. I'm a remodeler and have used them only once. Just once convinced me they were no good. Plenty of other anchoring solutions.
Another excellent video. thanks so much for all you do for us amateur woodworkers
Thanks Don!
Probably one of my favorites of your event work. And this comes from a John.
nice project and great to see someone out there using a table saw with the crown gard on you have my respect sir
Tap one are tricky. I find that running in and backing out the screw several times helps a lot with breaking
Sweet project Marc! I have a ton of plywood sitting in the corner of my shop. I really need to figure out a solution like this that fits my space. I love the modularity of this design and the hinges and casters are a clever addition (even if the screws were a pain).
Love this version for your space needs Marc. My modified original version still works great to this day in the garage. So glad you covered the tapcon stuff - I definitely would have the same knowledge gaps.
Thanks for the tips on the Tap-Cons. I’ve only used them once and had the same results. Will try your recommendations next time.
Great build!!! I made a horizontal version myself about 20 years ago but left it behind when we moved 8 years ago…I had been thinking of a vertical version…I think this video pushed me into the right mindset to finally clean up my mess. Thank You!
Suggestion: those of us in earthquake territory should fashion some kind of latch to tether it in the closed position.
Video couldnt come at a better time. Thanks!
Tapcons definitely have a learning curve. I found that out installing hundreds of them for my basement subfloor. I bought a rotary hammer drill which was so much nicer than using a hammer drill. So would recommend to anyone that has more than a few tapcons to install to invest in this tool. Your other tip about making sure to drill far enough is right on as that dust in the hole will snap the screws off like nobody's business. I also ream out the hole as well just to make sure there is nothing that will grab the screw and then use an impact driver. If you only have a few to do then I guess doing them by hand is fine.
Rotohammer is the only way to go. Those SDS drill bits go through masonry like butter. When I got mine, I had fun just finding rocks in the yard and drilling holes in them.
Great project! For a project that swings around a pivot point, I use non-swiveling wheels instead of swiveling ones. Install them with the wheel's axis pointing toward the pivot point.
I like the ideas of using a loose hinge to allow the cart to follow the slope of the floor.
Good thinking. I had extra caster from a previous project laying around but the non-swiveling version makes a whole lot of sense.
Thanks @Bob T252. I followed your advice and used two fixed wheels just as you say, one on each end. They look weird, but worked like magic. Also loose hinge for the floor slope. Nice!. Very good advice, thanks.
Wow! This looked like one of my projects! I'm the king of, "This should work!" Loved this video!
Thanks for leaving the goofs in. Not glad they happened to you but it’s easy to think that these things only happen to us and not to the experienced woodworking gurus.
With regards the masonry screws.. nylon plugs (Fischer or Rawl being the best) are what's commonly used in the UK. Generally give a very good hold without too many problems.
I have a love/hate relationship with tapcons. When the concrete has its little pebbles in just the right places (i.e. not where the hole goes), they're great... and when the concrete isn't being friendly, you wind up with screws that don't go in all the way, but also that don't come out. Gotta try the wax idea.
I was having the same problem getting Crapcons to work in my wall. I solved it by using the .22 caliber floor stud gun. Not only did it solve the problem, but for about an hour the shop smelled like gunpowder. Good Times!!
"all this extra space for... for fun activities. so there's that."
hahaha fav part of the episode
I have purchased the plans and started cutting the plywood. I am thinking on making the front subassembly first, so I don't have to swap subassemblies three times on my workbench. I think I will build the front, put it down, build the back, flip it, and then put the front on top.
Because of my shop layout, hinges have to go on the left side, so I need to be careful on reversing the design!
I hope I don't make too many mistakes! LOL.
Haha! I use split drive fasteners for concrete. I refer to those crapcons as snapcons. Nice plywood door cart thingy
Great one, Marc! And you nailed it in the end with the Tapcons... use the shortest screws possible, over drill by at least a half inch and blow out the holes. Lube is usually not required, unless you are feeling saucy.🤣🤣
I love the way you screw
Tapcons break a lot in solid concrete, as floors frequently use a very high-strength mix. They work like a dream in concrete block or less hard concrete. I've found it's better to drill deeper than you need because 1) the tip hitting a solid part is insta-breakage, 2) the extra depth gives a little bit of room for the swarf created by the threads to evacuate
The no-look cut @1:23 had me dying! 😂
Great video and I appreciate the inclusion of your “learning opportunities”, which are often the most instructive moments. like the cart a lot and have built many similar pieces, but I can’t imagine why you’d want to limit its mobility by permanently pinning a corner to the wall. I prefer a slightly wider base with four free wheels, which enables me me to move it anywhere in my shop. Then a screw eye on each end of the cart and nearby wall, fastened with carabiners, and I have the ability to fix the cart against the wall with one or two points for more options. I have major tool-envy, FYI!
Interesting idea!
I've gotten to the point where I really hate using and don't trust tapcons any longer. One thing that I found that works pretty well as long as there's not a ton of weight being held, is a combination of deep (or long) pop rivets and construction adhesive (maybe silicone caulk) on the back of the item that's being attached to the masonry.
I have those same shoes! And I love them!
Marc over here having badass tattoos and wood whispering skills, doing broken ankle yoga poses.
I'm impressed. Even after using about 1000 tapcons I've never snapped one! Mostly just from feel but later on when I got my first brushless Fuel Impact I would use the selftapping setting for tapcons.
You should try following their instructions......you'll get to enjoy how it feels when they break. :)
@@woodwhisperer There's a torque rating in the instructions. I admit I've never read that part before but I'm surpised at how much lower the 1/4" is to the 3/8" in tolerance.
You should have put the bolts in the spring caster in the opposite direction (from inside, with the nuts installed on the outside). The way you installed them is going to result in damaged plywood pieces. Better yet, replace the regular bolts with carriage bolts, so you don't have any intruding hardware to tear up your plywood pieces.
Fantastic idea, Marc! Keep up the great work!
Nothing is better for anchoring into concrete than plugs and screws. I've have been installing commercial storefronts for over thirty years and Tapcon screws often don't work and in many cases are prohibited from use. They are also susceptible to rust and breakage due to moisture which is ever present in concrete.
Nice project. I need something like that in my garage workshop for my cut-offs!
I've always had good luck with Tapcons. I agree that your pre-drilled holes in the concrete are just a tad too shallow, as you pointed out, causing the Tapcons to break from over torquing. Always drill your holes at least 25% deeper than the screw length.
If you drill them a tad too big in diameter and the screw slips in the hole, there is a simple fix... a great tip I got was to slide a piece of wire into the hole first (maybe even double it up). Takes up the extra space. :)
I’ve looked up and down for solid wood storage for my crappy one car garage… found it! Really this isn’t too long nor is it too high. I have one spot that is useless in my garage because it’s such a tight spot (the outer wall where my garage door meets) and currently all of my scraps are just semi propped against that wall or lying flat on the ground which is no good. In fact I think I have a mouse living in the pile of scraps 🤦🏽♀️ I’ll probably have to make my version thinner however I couldn’t ask for a better solution beyond building a shed and I just don’t store plywood sheets that often so it’s fine. I loved ShopNation’s faux wall/french cleat that hid his storage of ply but I need mine clear off the ground. There was another one that was cool called the “Mohawk” of wood storage, it was off the ground, ply sheets in the back and off cuts in the front, hence the name but it has to be bumped out so far I couldn’t fit my car in. Thanks so much, I can’t wait to build one and remove the hiding spot for the intruder 🐁
Thanks Marc, nice design.
I have built mine following your plans. I made some adjustments, though. I followed @BOB T252 and @x65535x advice and used two non-swiveling casters with the axis pointing toward the pivot point, one on each end. They sure look weird when installed, but work like magic. Also untightened the screws of the hinge a bit, wood side, to let the unit accommodate for the light floor slope. And finally, used plastic anchors for the concrete wall, which I have always used and know very well.
Thanks again, great and very useful project!
cant wait to see the photo of the extra space for fun activities to be pilled with more plywood
Nope. If it doesn’t fit, it goes!
Great project.
OMG...Thank you for leaving in your "mistakes/changes" that you had and for all the funny stuff also.
Again you inspire and Crack me up like no one else can....thank you for the great video! 🙃
P.S. You and John, working together could be a sitcom (..."It's a show about nothing?!?"...."That's Gold Jerry!").
Not a Tapcon pro, but have learned that overdrilling, plus being gentle with those final snugs using an impact driver have helped avoid the heads snapping off. When they do, just use the same drill bit and drill it again somewhere between the concrete and the side of the screw. Seems wonky to basically drill partially into the existing screw body, but it drills pretty easy, even with the masonry bit and the next screw goes in well every time and feels just as strong. That way you don't have to move your whole project (sometimes you just can't), and you don't risk having even worse luck in your second location.
Yea, tapcons are awesome when Installed properly. They don't need to be put in by hand but you do need to be careful how much torque you use once you start to feel resistance. And yes you need to have all the dust out of the way, you can still strip holes drilled and concrete just like you can strip holes drilled in wood. Not bad for a first timer.
alternate awesome, ultra, extraordinary way to mark for screws,,, scribe a line half the thickness of the material your attaching to,,, no guessing where you put them screws,, see line, drill hole, drive screw,,, if you are nailing instead of screwing,,, "pro tip",,, staggering above/below line is the best way to go,,, when stagger nailing or stitch nailing angle the nailer a couple degrees shooting back towards the center of the attaching panel and eliminate there chance blowing through the side of the panel and as a bonus feature you will increase pullout resistance of the total row of nails. In general we nail plywood, screw MDF and staple osb,,
Yeah, Tapcons are a little tricky. I had busted off a head as well before I stopped using my impact driver and instead used my standard lower torque drill driver to screw them in. Something they don't tell you at Tapcon school. 😉 Great little project!
I live in an old house (80+ years) with a poured concrete basement. Previous owners had attached all kinds of things directly to the concrete walls and had installed and later removed walls that were fastened to the floor. This resulted in many breaches of the concrete floor and walls, which, over time, has resulted in erosion and leaks when we have torrential rains (and occasional flooding). So over the past 5 years, since buying the house, I've been working to find and seal those leaks - which is a major pain. I'm in the process of constituting a woodshop in that same basement, and won't breach the concrete at all - for anything. Instead I'll drop studs down from the floor joists and attach to those. Where load is a consideration, I'll drop the studs onto free standing precast concrete deck blocks and engineer my way around having to breach any part of the foundation. I recommend against - in all cases no matter how new or old your house might be, to avoid breaching basement/foundation walls and floors. Water finds a way and over time, becomes the enemy.
So much fun to watch!!!! Crap 💩 Cons!!! Lol... Man, this content is perfect weekend therapy!!!! 👌
definitely going to steal some ideas from you on making one of my own - thanks for the video!
Hey Marc, just a tip for the concrete screws. It does help to really clean the holes out well with the drill but, but TapCons are still NOT my favorite concrete screw. Try GRK Caliburns in the future, and I guarantee you’ll never want to use the blue screws again.
Thanks for being real, Marc!
First time commenting long time viewer. Just wanted to add some insight from Europe. Never seen these “tapcons” before, seems like a weird solution to me honestly. For masonry/concrete (which is basically every wall ever for us 🙂) we drill oversized holes and use specialized plugs (different plugs for different materials, brick, concrete, aerated concrete etc.). This is usually stronger than needed. Only downside is when drilling in softer stone the hole can get oversized, which compromises the connection. In ye olde times they just filled the holes with dowels instead of plugs.
CEO of Rawl Plugs having a field day watching this!
I definitely need to build one of these! Nice design, and execution.
When driving the tapcon screws use a speed handle, more control, no sheering the screws
Off, better yet get ratchet adapter for tight spots
Interesting solution. Thnx.
Great video, Marc~! I have been searching for a solution to organize my plywood sheets & cutoffs. I want to keep mine vertical too and this looks pretty good. Thanks~!
As a tip, when you were lining up your hinges to mark the holes you said that you have a wonky surface on your concrete so you want the barrel of the hinge behind the cart. Based on the orientation of the hinges, to make sure they are on dead square, wrap the other plate of the hinge all the way around to lay flat against the back and it will ensure that they are on parallel to each other. Also take a level to your wall where the other side of the hinge goes and mark the wall so when you attach it, any unevenness in your floor doesn’t translate to wheels not making contact; not to mention possibly pivoting out by itself if it’s off level. Great job on the cart though!
Yeah anything that relies on the threads grabbing the concrete is going to suck. Concrete is great in compression and terrible in tension. And screw threads are relying on tension of the concrete to stay put. I always look for fasteners where there's a sleeve of soft metal that is the exact same diameter as the hole you're drilling. Then the screw creates pressure all around the interior of the sleeve, creating a force fit that relies solely on compression.
If you're in a situation where weather isn't a big consideration you can actually do kind of the same thing by just hammering a dowel into the hole and using a really undersized pilot hole for a regular wood screw. I'd actually trust that more than the Crapcon.
I'm always surprised that nylon wall plugs appear to be virtually unheard of in the US.
@@Paremo_ Exactly, I always use them here in France and they are so much easier to work with (and cost next to nothing)
When it comes to tapcon's I always had to use the tapcon bit.
I like the idea on doing this vertically. I have really tall ceilings in the small shop, and made a horizontal plywood card because it fits by the door opening. Thinking about it I can just move other tools to that area, and then move this a little further back into the shop where I have the height.
@@thomashajicek2747 I laugh 14' ceilings in the garage and the rest of the house is short. Hit my head going down the stairs all the time if I'm in a hurry.
I hate tapcon screws. I am hanging cabinets on cement blocks wall. What I do is: Drill a 3/8 of an inch and push into a wooden dowel 3/8 of an inch and use any regular screw. Of course first need to drill 1/8 hole on the cabinet and hang it temporarily on the wall and mark the holes with a small concrete drill bit.
I always enjoy your videos. I am so glad you decided to invest a little more on RUclips. Thanks for the amazing content. If you need to attach something to a concrete wall just get in contact with a South African. We will show you how.
Awesome video and great idea for sheet good storage.
There's this thing called RUclips where you can learn how to attach things to concrete. 😉👍
you need to put shims between the top hinge and concrete wall so that the wheel on the outer end sits on the floor i saw you had to push back the rack a little i think your concrete is not plumb