Good stuff man! One more thing you need to do is widen the holes in the Dominos. Drill the holes, pull the breadboard off, then widen the holes with a drill or round file. Then reinstall the breadboard and glue the pins as you did.
the "theory" according to Spags is " Because the Dominos aren't very wide, I wasn't comfortable creating a wider slot for the dowel. The dowels themselves are quite thin and flexible so I don't think they'll have any trouble flexing under pressure. The weakest wood always looses." So the flex will come from the domino itself and the sloppy joint will allow it to move enough to not pop. Being a soft wood it wont move have as much movement as a hardwood either.
I can report back that the breadboards are still doing well, even after a move to Colorado so my "theory" holds up here. Not that I condone intentionally stressing parts like this, it did work in my case. Slotting the tenons is obviusly the best course of action but NOT slotting them isn't a garaunteed failure.
Seems to me like reclaimed wood with holes would certainly break before a domino hah, so I’m not so sure the weakest wood theory works in this case. I think slotting them even 1/32” wider on each side would not compromise the domino and at least alleviate a little bit of stress in the future
@@woodwhisperer its still not great design. having wiggle room in the dominoes is negated by the pins completely, so slots are an integral part of the design.
I’m a bit confused with this technique. if the breadboard domino mortises are done loose to allow for lateral expansion, and then you put in dowels with the same diameter in the domino tenon, are you not locking them into place so they are no longer able to move laterally?
After watching this I totally agree with you.The tenons are no longer floating when they are pinned to the breadboard with the dowel done in the manner this guy did it.
I was referred to this video by my buddy, Tim Woodward of Woodward Builds. He just finished up his table and he used dowels in place of a domino. Which is what I'm going to be using for the top that I'm building. From what I've seen and read in the comments from Marc Spagnoulo, the holes don't need to be elongated in the dowels in the breadboard. Thanks for showing this method John.
Sorry bro next time i'll be sure to use a hand powered drill and two rocks to make it more attainable to that 98% of woodworkers you speak of. Then again, you're a Philly fan so you probably only have one rock like only one super bowl, so i'll make sure to use only that next time. I'll call Jon before the build tho, to make sure i get approval from my Big Bro!
@@John_Malecki Or you could just mention The Wood Whisper again you seem to have that name on repeat. You probably built that bench you sat on when you played football since you felt the need to bring that into play or in you cause not in play.
loved the video, loved the technique. I have several Festool pieces and I like them all... that being said I do always look for other ways to accomplish things before jumping into a big purchase ... $1500 for this tool is huge. After watching your video I thought a bit about how else I could do this and came across a doweling jig from a well know online company that offers 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" dowel drilling options and it occured that this would do basically the same thing. I could have made the jig but for $29 bucks I can get one made from hardened Steel. So I thought it was worth a shot. Your video helped me get there.... so thumbs up! Can't get my head around people who poo poo Festool just because... or for some bogus reason. Your results over time speak for themselves. A+ (And for the record I was born before 1970 :)
Yea people hate on festool only when they dont have any haha. Who wouldnt want to drive a ferarri every day if they could? When you're doing custom work and need to work fast, the domino is a no brainer. But i do understand its a tough pill to swallow for the hobbiest
Why does everyone hate Festool? I am no honk for any manufacturer, but the Domino is a solid tool. Nice work, I am now subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your work.
Been binge listening to you and Brad on the MFP podcast and I have learned soooo much about turning a Hobby into a business. Thank you and Brad for being so awesome!
For all of you that are making one table and don't want to pay 1k+ for a domino, I built the same style table using 3/4" dowels 2'' long. then pinned them with 1/4" dowels. This was 6yrs ago and the table is still perfect. I also made my own dowel jig with scrap wood and bushings just for this build for a few bucks for the bushings. Simple easy and very effective.
Great tip! this is an awesome example of what i was trying to do with this video. Show the concept and then let the user implement it in a way that works for them, Great stuff. Appreciate it !!
Just happy someone is putting bread boards on without using glue & pocket hole screws all the way across the table. No I am not joking. Great job & video. I will be making my first Farm house table with breadboards this summer for a wedding. Being my first bead board table, I am going to first make a practices table out of 2" X 12" X 7' boards & 4" X 4" "H" frame legs, I up cycled from a large shipping create. If the practices table works well, then the bride can use it as a picnic table.
I'm surprised at the amount of flak John Maleki is catching about using a Festool product. There's nothing misleading in the title. The Domino XL makes breadboards "quick and easy" compared to other techniques. John runs a production shop so, while the Domino XL will cost you about $1400 new, that cost is quickly recouped in saved time. It's not lazy technique. It's just good business. In my 40 years of woodworking, I've learned a few ways to attach breadboards. I purchased a 700 last year and now it's the only way I do this although I use a draw bore technique to pull the breadboard tight to the table edge. That's the only difference between my technique and John's. I wonder if folks got this angry when table saws were invented?
Belated comment, but I must disagree. Not that the title isn't literally accurate, but saying things like "quick and easy" is meant to appeal to newbies. For more evidence, just look at the description. And that doesn't mean you need to accommodate a no-power tools approach, nor that it's wrong to show yourself using a festool. As you say, quick and easy doesn't mean cheap. But John should be more aware of the audience, and address the cost. He could say "I'm using festool, but you can use brand xyz instead." Good business for him festool may be, but it's bad video practice. And John's response that I replied to above had such snark and was extremely unprofessional of him. I think the flak is deserved.
@@woody350ep1 But even if they have $1400 (and I don't think that ancedote is worth much, it's uncommon surely), is it really a good idea for a newbie to drop that amount of money on the hobby in general right off the bat - let alone on a single tool? Nah, it's not. Maleki is being dumb here.
Fair comment about it being simple if you have a Domino, but similarly you could use regular dowels and a jig and make the loose holes with a slightly larger drill bit or sanded down dowels. A bit more extra work as less surface area for the pins, but achievable. Great tutorial video John. Thank you. 👍
I would suggest some sort of flat tenon for the application. There are tons of floating tenon tutorials around the web. But I would for sure suggest using something flat so the movement is across the width.
Yes. There has to be an elongated hole to allow the main table to expand and contract. Funny how he knows not to put glue, but it don't matter if there is no room for movement anyway.
This method of attaching breadboard ends is absolutely the correct way because it allows for expansion of the wood, which prevents the wood cracking in the future -- which prevents you from having to replace the top for the customer at your own expense in the future. However, I hesitate to invest a lot of money in the Festool because the Festool is pretty much a one-trick-pony, isn't it?
Question (because I'm not scared to showcase my ignorance!): How does this technique control the cupping of the long boards? I mean, that is the actual purpose of a breadboard end--to help keep the table flat. Is the end piece on this particular table just for show without any true function? I'm lost.
Precisely what I was thinking while watching this. Personally I'm a Festool fan for most thing but not all. Dominos are great...................but at a bare minimum, I'd have installed no less that two dominos into each member of the table-top to prevent potential cupping later on.
@@jonh1808 I can see you don't have young children haha. I'm in the process of building a new table(hence the videos...) because my 2yo insists on dangling his full body weight from the corner of our glass table top. Every time I see someone building one of these with dominoes I'm very curious how much stress it can really take.
Hey John, if you allow for movement with the dominoes, why not allow for movement with the pins put into the dominoes? won't that just make the loose tenon tight again if you don't allow for pin movement?
I find that many people are calling this Dominoe method of producing a Breadboard joint as an easy or trick method, should realize that this isn't a breadboard joint (or breadboard end) anymore. This is one reason it is easier since it isn't the joint anymore. This is a specific kind of joint and using dominoes has varied so far from this joint as to not be this joint anymore. I would also challenge those who think that it is, to consider if one made in the same way with dowels would still be a breadboard joint or if the dowels were totally eliminated and used a butt joint was still a breadboard end. It isn't the application of a board across the grain which produces this joint but the method of joinery, and the reason for doing this joinery in the first place.
I had the privilege to use my friends Festool Domino joiner. This was my first time to branch out with my joinery techniques and not use Kreg pocket screws. I glued up my table top with dominos and attached my bread boards the same way as in this video. For the time doing something like this, this video showed me exactly what I needed to do and I'm proud of the end result. I feel I took that next step in my woodworking. Thanks for putting out this video content. These type of learning videos are a huge help for people getting into this craft. I found a dowel jig with a drill stop at Harbor Freight. That helped with drilling to the right depth.
John, great video, but i am just a little confused. When you drill the hole for the pins, your going into the domino? So when you insert the pin it essentially will keep the domino from moving. How will the domino move side to side with expansion if its pinned tight? I will be using dowels, and trying to decide how best to pin the breadboard side. With a smaller dowel or sink a screw into it? Thanks,
I made a dining room table without doing proper research on breadboards.... now I know and want to fix my breadboards before they crack my table. I have to rent my tools though as I don't have everything I need.... all that being said...I want to follow what you did here, but I don't understand the pins... like at all, can you explain that to me in great detail? haha.
Kind of late to the party, but here are my thoughts. I dont have Festool tools, and do not plan on owning any anytime soon. That being said. several people are making very nice, high quality work with them. They do have their place in furniture making. As to the breadboard, I do not see where a single tenon in the center of each plank is going to keep the main boards from cupping over time. one of the main components in the breadboard design is the addition of a tongue and groove as well as the tenons. The tongue and groove that goes the entire width of the table top is what keeps the individual boards from cupping. The way you are showing it here the plank centers will remain in plane with the breadboard. However with out the T&G the joints of the planks will most likely come out of plane. Now on to the pegs, traditionally the breadboards were secured with draw bored tenons. I would be curious to see how well your 1/2" long 3/8" soft maple dowels with only a mere touch of glue hold up.
I am building a 6 foot walnut dining table and will breadboard each end. I will probably make the table extend to add an 18" leaf and I would then also breadboard each seam where the table extends apart to help make sure alignment pins register over time. The top will only be 3/4" or slightly thicker. Would a Domino 500, which has thinner tenons, work or would the 700 XL and its thicker tenons work better? Also, the longest pre-made Domino 500 tenon seems to be just under 2". That leaves little room to add the pin dowels on the breadboard side. My thinking has been that the 700 XL would help with this issue, too, since you can get longer tenons and they are thicker. One final question: since the outer tenons are not glued on the breadboard side, would drawboring the Domino tenon pin dowels be wise to draw the breadboard tight to the top and keep it tight?
Seems most of you missed the change John made to the domino machine to cut a wider (sloppy) mortice that allows a sloppy fit to the tennon in the breadboard end but only in the horizontal direction, so that will allow for expansion and contraction. The pins into those tenons need to be as far out away from the end of the main table top so the tenon can basically flex to accommodate the expansion or contraction to the table top.
This is the correct. The flexibility in the domino will allow for movement in theory. I havent had issues yet, and as i stated, if Spags uses it, the theory is sound.
Yes the breadboard end has larger mortises but the dowel locks the tenon into one position in that enlarged mortise, defeating its purpose. In reality of course the tenon in the enlarged hole is not moving very much so it may not matter.
Awesome work! Super helpful, thanks for posting! I’ve seen another technique where the pre-drilled holes in the tenon were set back slightly, I guess to pull everything tighter when the pin gets knocked in. Do you think that’s worthwhile?
Awesome job as always. How would I adjust with an even number of boards (4)? If I were to use 5 dominos the center domino would fall in between two joined boards. Or, could I simply use 4 dominos and not glue the center 2? Thanks again.
Thank you for your tutorial, it was very helpful. I really like the wider thicker dominoes and pegs you used! Don't the dominoes need widened holes drilled in them to allow movement before the pegs are inserted? I'm still learning, but I've seen this done in other videos.
How do the pins work? Does the drill hole for the pin go all the way into the tenon, so that the pin goes all the way into the tenon? Wouldn't that have the same effect as gluing the tenon into the breadboard end, stopping them from moving as the tabletop expands? Or am I misunderstanding? (I ask because I intend to build a table with breadboard ends.)
Great video! So many festool haters. My biggest issue that I always run into it getting the 2 surfaces completely flush (breadboard end and the table top end) Any tips on how to cut these straight if you don't have a tracksaw?
John Malecki I normally do but I seem to always get some variation in the cut. Maybe I'm just too anal but I get about a 1/32 gap somewhere along the board
John, you need to change the title of the video to "Create Woodworking Breadboard Ends Quick, Easy and Expensive". It wouldn't be so misleading. Easy implies that you do not require any fancy tools to do it. Your technique is very good though.
I am a fan of the Domino. And I think what a lot of folks fail to realize is that opinions are like ass holes. Everybody has one. Some just talk louder and out of turn. Nice Job.
How far do you drill into the tenon for the "pin" insert? Do you drill through it being careful not to go through the other side of the breadboard, or not drill completely through the tenon? Also, will this joinery method hold up if somebody were to lift the table up by the end?
Why did you dowel the tenons? You defeated the whole point of having elongated mortises to allow for wood movement. Now the tenons are pinned to the boards which are glued in place on the table. You should have made elongated holes in the tenons to allow for lateral movement OR left the pins off entirely. I don't think they were necessary. You talked about a "rookie mistake" on the video., and this was a remake. I think you made another mistake on this one.... unless I'm missing sumthin?
The sloppiness in the mortise allows for the movement in the tenon. Theres like 1000 comments on this and conversations and debates. Check those out in the other comments for more info. Also read the article in the description I linked to!
Are the tenon's shorter than the mortise on the breadboard? Seems like that is key. Because the tenon can pivot on the pin and has room side to side to pivot, but if there's no room behind the tenon, the breadboard will be forced to separate or the pin to bend (the weakest connection). If the tenon is left wiggle room to pivot on the pin, you could set the pin straight through. Then when the table expands, the breadboard to table joint will pull tighter.
Love the video brother, simple and easy tutorial.. I love the way you glued up the pins as well. Question, what are the dimensions of your breadboard in relation to your table top boards? And, was that a 12 millimeter bit you were using?
Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong, but don't the pins lock the whole thing in place? If you don't drill the holes in the BB end of the dominoes before installing the BB end and elongate them, aren't you locking them in place when you drive the dowel in?
I was thinking the same... To me it looks like everything is snug even though its not glued into the breadboard there is still no room to move. Correct me if Im wrong but normally the tenon is slightly smaller than the female socket and also has an elongated hole to allow the pin to move side to side in the tenon. While also holding the breadboard tight to the end. However if the table is going to be in a conditioned space. It probably wont move all that much anyway.
If I am building a table out of 2" x 6" boards for both the main body and the breadboard ends, do I need the XL domino or do you think it can work fine with the regular 500 domino?
John Malecki Thanks big cat! I will send you a picture when I have it complete. I’m not sure why there are so many negative posts about Festool. The domino seems like an incredible tool for joinery.
I think if you were clever and made your own solid wood biscuits...perhaps. But they lack the length of dominoes or even dowels. Last time I did such and breadboard end I just used long screws and elongated holes.
Reverend Blair the only place you'd want a through tenon would be in the middle. That's how Jay did his table. All the other tenons need to move, so you can't really do them through without leaving unsightly gaps for expansion.
Well, I happen to be a fan of unsightly gaps. Not a fan of You Tube going all Disney though, so take as you may. You raise a good point though. More than that, you be right...as long as You Tube hasn't blocked talking like a pirate too. Yar.
@@John_MaleckiThanks for clarifying. Nice job on the table man! We have used the floating tenon method before and used plywood for the tenons. I went back old school and do a traditional breadboard on all tables now. I work with antique lumber frequently. A lot of antique cypress looks similar. I am fixing to clean up some old heart pine joists for a project. Keep up the good work! "The Cajun Craftsman" Check this out: facebook.com/Donald.Thibodaux/media_set?set=a.10214405966850277&type=3
Bro what happened to you. Lol. You look like you could block someone on this video. Now, your just blocking your arteries hahaha. All kidding I am just jealous. Keep up the good work
But this is wrong :) It will work only if the holes in tenons have a "pill shape". In other words, the pin need space to move sideways. If you are drilling holes and put pins after board is glued, then it is just pointless, it will not work.
So just so I am clear.... (For example sake) if i had three spot where I was putting dominos it would be 1. Table Loose Glue Breadboard Loose 2. Table Tight Glue Breadboard Tight Glue 3. Table Loose Glue Breadboard Loose. Then peg them all!! Also.... I know I am two years behind but I am so triggered that you didn't put Festool Domino in your title; I am going to my safe space after this.
I'm sure like most capital outlay, the cost of the tool is amortized over many years, not one project. It is a basic accounting method. 100 projects translates to 7.50 per project. Time is money when doing this for a living. The client doesn't care, neither does the table.
Is there a cheaper alternative to a $1000 festool domino? I plan on making my own coffee table, and dining room table but can't justify spending $1000+ on 1 tool.
You can do the same thing with a router and a mortising jig. This is probably the way he should have demoed it being done, given that his target audience is RUclips and not a festool convention. This comes off as, "check out this super simple technique that only requires a $1500 biscuit jointer"
Good stuff man! One more thing you need to do is widen the holes in the Dominos. Drill the holes, pull the breadboard off, then widen the holes with a drill or round file. Then reinstall the breadboard and glue the pins as you did.
the "theory" according to Spags is " Because the Dominos aren't very wide, I wasn't comfortable creating a wider slot for the dowel. The dowels themselves are quite thin and flexible so I don't think they'll have any trouble flexing under pressure. The weakest wood always looses." So the flex will come from the domino itself and the sloppy joint will allow it to move enough to not pop. Being a soft wood it wont move have as much movement as a hardwood either.
I can report back that the breadboards are still doing well, even after a move to Colorado so my "theory" holds up here. Not that I condone intentionally stressing parts like this, it did work in my case. Slotting the tenons is obviusly the best course of action but NOT slotting them isn't a garaunteed failure.
Seems to me like reclaimed wood with holes would certainly break before a domino hah, so I’m not so sure the weakest wood theory works in this case. I think slotting them even 1/32” wider on each side would not compromise the domino and at least alleviate a little bit of stress in the future
Crafted Workshop I
@@woodwhisperer its still not great design. having wiggle room in the dominoes is negated by the pins completely, so slots are an integral part of the design.
I’m a bit confused with this technique. if the breadboard domino mortises are done loose to allow for lateral expansion, and then you put in dowels with the same diameter in the domino tenon, are you not locking them into place so they are no longer able to move laterally?
After watching this I totally agree with you.The tenons are no longer floating when they are pinned to the breadboard with the dowel done in the manner this guy did it.
I was referred to this video by my buddy, Tim Woodward of Woodward Builds. He just finished up his table and he used dowels in place of a domino. Which is what I'm going to be using for the top that I'm building. From what I've seen and read in the comments from Marc Spagnoulo, the holes don't need to be elongated in the dowels in the breadboard. Thanks for showing this method John.
I love it when some of these guys make videos showing you how to perform the major part of a build with a tool that 98% of woodworkers can't afford.
glad you love it!
@@John_Malecki Sorry to intrude in your comment section I typed in "Jon Peters' less talented brother" in the You search and this video popped up.
Sorry bro next time i'll be sure to use a hand powered drill and two rocks to make it more attainable to that 98% of woodworkers you speak of. Then again, you're a Philly fan so you probably only have one rock like only one super bowl, so i'll make sure to use only that next time. I'll call Jon before the build tho, to make sure i get approval from my Big Bro!
@@John_Malecki Or you could just mention The Wood Whisper again you seem to have that name on repeat. You probably built that bench you sat on when you played football since you felt the need to bring that into play or in you cause not in play.
@@John_Malecki *your case. CHEERS
Nice technique here. I like the idea of just gluing the top of the dowel.
Locks it right in there!
Same
loved the video, loved the technique. I have several Festool pieces and I like them all... that being said I do always look for other ways to accomplish things before jumping into a big purchase ... $1500 for this tool is huge. After watching your video I thought a bit about how else I could do this and came across a doweling jig from a well know online company that offers 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" dowel drilling options and it occured that this would do basically the same thing. I could have made the jig but for $29 bucks I can get one made from hardened Steel. So I thought it was worth a shot. Your video helped me get there.... so thumbs up! Can't get my head around people who poo poo Festool just because... or for some bogus reason. Your results over time speak for themselves. A+ (And for the record I was born before 1970 :)
Yea people hate on festool only when they dont have any haha. Who wouldnt want to drive a ferarri every day if they could? When you're doing custom work and need to work fast, the domino is a no brainer. But i do understand its a tough pill to swallow for the hobbiest
Why does everyone hate Festool? I am no honk for any manufacturer, but the Domino is a solid tool. Nice work, I am now subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your work.
I dunno what’s wrong with people
You might as well own a glock!
Been binge listening to you and Brad on the MFP podcast and I have learned soooo much about turning a Hobby into a business. Thank you and Brad for being so awesome!
Glad you dig it man!
You have a microwave and fridge in your shop? You are living the dream brother! Great video, awesome detail.
They’ve been moved to the office !
Good stuff John. Probably a bit beyond my current scope of expertise, but definitely learned something new today.
Its not as hard as it looks. I picked this up a few years ago and did it with floating tenons and a plunge router and have had no issues.
The keller theory of the tape is awesome 😀
ADadAndHisKids I was hoping someone else noticed! :D
For all of you that are making one table and don't want to pay 1k+ for a domino, I built the same style table using 3/4" dowels 2'' long. then pinned them with 1/4" dowels. This was 6yrs ago and the table is still perfect. I also made my own dowel jig with scrap wood and bushings just for this build for a few bucks for the bushings. Simple easy and very effective.
Great tip! this is an awesome example of what i was trying to do with this video. Show the concept and then let the user implement it in a way that works for them, Great stuff. Appreciate it !!
If the bread boards are 2x4s, how deep in them should the 3/4" dowels go?
What do you mean by you "pinned" them?
Just happy someone is putting bread boards on without using glue & pocket hole screws all the way across the table. No I am not joking.
Great job & video. I will be making my first Farm house table with breadboards this summer for a wedding.
Being my first bead board table, I am going to first make a practices table out of 2" X 12" X 7' boards & 4" X 4" "H" frame legs, I up cycled from a large shipping create.
If the practices table works well, then the bride can use it as a picnic table.
Awesome work. You may want to rename this. Lol. I didn't see anything quick and easy about this.
The only thing that made it quicker was the domino, but the price of one does not make it easy on the bank account.
Just thought I'd show up carrying my Festool Domino in a YETI cooler and watch the haters heads explode. Very nice work by the way.
both are fantastic ! thank you !
LOL at this comment
And drinking hater's tears in my pink Stanley tumbler.
Nice job John!
Loose mortise slot locked into a dowel. The dowel essentially locked the tenon in one spot. How will the tenons float side to side?
I'm surprised at the amount of flak John Maleki is catching about using a Festool product. There's nothing misleading in the title. The Domino XL makes breadboards "quick and easy" compared to other techniques. John runs a production shop so, while the Domino XL will cost you about $1400 new, that cost is quickly recouped in saved time. It's not lazy technique. It's just good business. In my 40 years of woodworking, I've learned a few ways to attach breadboards. I purchased a 700 last year and now it's the only way I do this although I use a draw bore technique to pull the breadboard tight to the table edge. That's the only difference between my technique and John's. I wonder if folks got this angry when table saws were invented?
Belated comment, but I must disagree. Not that the title isn't literally accurate, but saying things like "quick and easy" is meant to appeal to newbies. For more evidence, just look at the description.
And that doesn't mean you need to accommodate a no-power tools approach, nor that it's wrong to show yourself using a festool. As you say, quick and easy doesn't mean cheap. But John should be more aware of the audience, and address the cost. He could say "I'm using festool, but you can use brand xyz instead." Good business for him festool may be, but it's bad video practice.
And John's response that I replied to above had such snark and was extremely unprofessional of him. I think the flak is deserved.
@@Geraki0n I've met a ridiculous amount of newbies that have more money than skill so that $1400 is just a jumping off point for some folks.
@@woody350ep1 But even if they have $1400 (and I don't think that ancedote is worth much, it's uncommon surely), is it really a good idea for a newbie to drop that amount of money on the hobby in general right off the bat - let alone on a single tool?
Nah, it's not. Maleki is being dumb here.
Fair comment about it being simple if you have a Domino, but similarly you could use regular dowels and a jig and make the loose holes with a slightly larger drill bit or sanded down dowels. A bit more extra work as less surface area for the pins, but achievable. Great tutorial video John. Thank you. 👍
I would suggest some sort of flat tenon for the application. There are tons of floating tenon tutorials around the web. But I would for sure suggest using something flat so the movement is across the width.
Awesome!
+INOX MUNDO thank you!
Great video!!! Thank you..
Wouldn't the pin lock the tenon to the bread board and stop it from expanding?
Exactly what I was thinking too
Yes. There has to be an elongated hole to allow the main table to expand and contract. Funny how he knows not to put glue, but it don't matter if there is no room for movement anyway.
I thought the same!
Agree. Also maybe a brad point bit. Is a domino even wide enough to do slots in stead of holes?
@@farrierss1724 yes, I use 12mm dominoes and I cut two side by side 1/4" holes and combine them into one slot.
This method of attaching breadboard ends is absolutely the correct way because it allows for expansion of the wood, which prevents the wood cracking in the future -- which prevents you from having to replace the top for the customer at your own expense in the future. However, I hesitate to invest a lot of money in the Festool because the Festool is pretty much a one-trick-pony, isn't it?
+Mike D. Author yes but it's a trick worth paying for.
I kinda like this method better than the more advanced joints.
Its much faster thats for sure
Very nice! This is just one more reason to add to my list of reasons to get a domino! Not sure how I don't remember Marc doing this.
+Chris McDowell | CMR Woodworks here's a link to Mark using this method. Glad to see someone feel inspired while the rest of the world just hates haha
I agree with Patrick you need to elongate the holes on the dominos except the centre one(s).
The mortises are wider
Question (because I'm not scared to showcase my ignorance!): How does this technique control the cupping of the long boards? I mean, that is the actual purpose of a breadboard end--to help keep the table flat. Is the end piece on this particular table just for show without any true function? I'm lost.
Precisely what I was thinking while watching this. Personally I'm a Festool fan for most thing but not all. Dominos are great...................but at a bare minimum, I'd have installed no less that two dominos into each member of the table-top to prevent potential cupping later on.
@@jonh1808 I can see you don't have young children haha. I'm in the process of building a new table(hence the videos...) because my 2yo insists on dangling his full body weight from the corner of our glass table top. Every time I see someone building one of these with dominoes I'm very curious how much stress it can really take.
a festool advertising video!
you're not a fan ?
NASA prefers Makita
Very solid information and great explanation. Great job!
love your work!
Thank you!
Great video with great techniques !! Appreciate it.
Hey John, if you allow for movement with the dominoes, why not allow for movement with the pins put into the dominoes? won't that just make the loose tenon tight again if you don't allow for pin movement?
He was begginer😂
love it dude, so simple, great looking top
Very fast and simple. Thanks for positivity and support!
no problem brother
I find that many people are calling this Dominoe method of producing a Breadboard joint as an easy or trick method, should realize that this isn't a breadboard joint (or breadboard end) anymore. This is one reason it is easier since it isn't the joint anymore.
This is a specific kind of joint and using dominoes has varied so far from this joint as to not be this joint anymore. I would also challenge those who think that it is, to consider if one made in the same way with dowels would still be a breadboard joint or if the dowels were totally eliminated and used a butt joint was still a breadboard end.
It isn't the application of a board across the grain which produces this joint but the method of joinery, and the reason for doing this joinery in the first place.
would like to see a video of you making the floating tenons and not the festool, as I don't have the festool and would like to make them m self
Cut them with a router and use a table saw for the tenons!
Love it. Well done.
Hi John great video I'm going be a making making outdoor table which orientation do you reccomend for grain direction & is spacing needed thanks
Using this technique this weekend for my tabletop. Thanks for the video and the great domostration
Let me know how it turns out David!
I had the privilege to use my friends Festool Domino joiner. This was my first time to branch out with my joinery techniques and not use Kreg pocket screws. I glued up my table top with dominos and attached my bread boards the same way as in this video. For the time doing something like this, this video showed me exactly what I needed to do and I'm proud of the end result. I feel I took that next step in my woodworking. Thanks for putting out this video content. These type of learning videos are a huge help for people getting into this craft. I found a dowel jig with a drill stop at Harbor Freight. That helped with drilling to the right depth.
John, great video, but i am just a little confused. When you drill the hole for the pins, your going into the domino? So when you insert the pin it essentially will keep the domino from moving. How will the domino move side to side with expansion if its pinned tight? I will be using dowels, and trying to decide how best to pin the breadboard side. With a smaller dowel or sink a screw into it? Thanks,
I was thinking exactly the same... I've seen this in a few other videos too... interesting to hear what John makes of this observation?
He needs to be drilling a wide hole in the domino. Check out the Wood whisperer video on breadboard ends.
How strong is this method? Would you lift the entire table up by the ends using this method?
This is definitely a domino specific way of joining breadboard ends.
dominoes cut a floating tenon, so its actually a floating tenon technique. Just faster than a router
I made a dining room table without doing proper research on breadboards.... now I know and want to fix my breadboards before they crack my table. I have to rent my tools though as I don't have everything I need.... all that being said...I want to follow what you did here, but I don't understand the pins... like at all, can you explain that to me in great detail? haha.
Good video - I tool was looking for an alternative to the festool domino. Too expensive.
Ah i see, try using floating tenons if you can !
Kind of late to the party, but here are my thoughts. I dont have Festool tools, and do not plan on owning any anytime soon. That being said. several people are making very nice, high quality work with them. They do have their place in furniture making. As to the breadboard, I do not see where a single tenon in the center of each plank is going to keep the main boards from cupping over time. one of the main components in the breadboard design is the addition of a tongue and groove as well as the tenons. The tongue and groove that goes the entire width of the table top is what keeps the individual boards from cupping. The way you are showing it here the plank centers will remain in plane with the breadboard. However with out the T&G the joints of the planks will most likely come out of plane. Now on to the pegs, traditionally the breadboards were secured with draw bored tenons. I would be curious to see how well your 1/2" long 3/8" soft maple dowels with only a mere touch of glue hold up.
I am building a 6 foot walnut dining table and will breadboard each end. I will probably make the table extend to add an 18" leaf and I would then also breadboard each seam where the table extends apart to help make sure alignment pins register over time. The top will only be 3/4" or slightly thicker. Would a Domino 500, which has thinner tenons, work or would the 700 XL and its thicker tenons work better? Also, the longest pre-made Domino 500 tenon seems to be just under 2". That leaves little room to add the pin dowels on the breadboard side. My thinking has been that the 700 XL would help with this issue, too, since you can get longer tenons and they are thicker. One final question: since the outer tenons are not glued on the breadboard side, would drawboring the Domino tenon pin dowels be wise to draw the breadboard tight to the top and keep it tight?
Seems most of you missed the change John made to the domino machine to cut a wider (sloppy) mortice that allows a sloppy fit to the tennon in the breadboard end but only in the horizontal direction, so that will allow for expansion and contraction.
The pins into those tenons need to be as far out away from the end of the main table top so the tenon can basically flex to accommodate the expansion or contraction to the table top.
This is the correct. The flexibility in the domino will allow for movement in theory. I havent had issues yet, and as i stated, if Spags uses it, the theory is sound.
Yes the breadboard end has larger mortises but the dowel locks the tenon into one position in that enlarged mortise, defeating its purpose. In reality of course the tenon in the enlarged hole is not moving very much so it may not matter.
Awesome work! Super helpful, thanks for posting! I’ve seen another technique where the pre-drilled holes in the tenon were set back slightly, I guess to pull everything tighter when the pin gets knocked in. Do you think that’s worthwhile?
Can confirm this works well, just helps to pull everything in tighter
Awesome job as always. How would I adjust with an even number of boards (4)? If I were to use 5 dominos the center domino would fall in between two joined boards. Or, could I simply use 4 dominos and not glue the center 2? Thanks again.
Thank you for your tutorial, it was very helpful. I really like the wider thicker dominoes and pegs you used! Don't the dominoes need widened holes drilled in them to allow movement before the pegs are inserted? I'm still learning, but I've seen this done in other videos.
the slop in the slot they're in allow for the movement
How do the pins work? Does the drill hole for the pin go all the way into the tenon, so that the pin goes all the way into the tenon? Wouldn't that have the same effect as gluing the tenon into the breadboard end, stopping them from moving as the tabletop expands? Or am I misunderstanding? (I ask because I intend to build a table with breadboard ends.)
Nice job.! not seen the wood threaded pegs before were did you get them ?
Shouldn't your hole in tenon be slightly wider than plug? For expansion
I saw Festool and thought “nice, I can do this”.
Not to shabby for a face puncher! lol great job.
To each his own but I'll stick with tradition here.
Thank you!
I love watching woodworking videos only to find out the hand tool they are using costs $1500.00
You can also use a router, a drill or old school chisel. I feel ya on the expensive tools
Great video! Could I use dowels instead of domino's to connect the bread board ends? Any advice on how best to go forward without the use of a domino?
I hope I can do it
Good luck
Great video! So many festool haters. My biggest issue that I always run into it getting the 2 surfaces completely flush (breadboard end and the table top end) Any tips on how to cut these straight if you don't have a tracksaw?
+nathan gilchrist use a straight edge and circular Saw.
John Malecki I normally do but I seem to always get some variation in the cut. Maybe I'm just too anal but I get about a 1/32 gap somewhere along the board
nathan gilchrist get gud
John, you need to change the title of the video to "Create Woodworking Breadboard Ends Quick, Easy and Expensive". It wouldn't be so misleading. Easy implies that you do not require any fancy tools to do it. Your technique is very good though.
You can cut floating tenons by hand. Thanks for the view and comment
I am a fan of the Domino. And I think what a lot of folks fail to realize is that opinions are like ass holes. Everybody has one. Some just talk louder and out of turn. Nice Job.
What types of clamps are you using? The ones that run the length of the table?
Could this also be done with a drill bit and round dowels?
Sort of.
How far do you drill into the tenon for the "pin" insert? Do you drill through it being careful not to go through the other side of the breadboard, or not drill completely through the tenon? Also, will this joinery method hold up if somebody were to lift the table up by the end?
It'll hold up. and you drill just thru the tenon not the whole breadboard, you can but then you see the plug
Love the festools but that domino maker is too pricey for me can i use dowels?
Can you do another video for those of us who can't afford a domino tool?
I really like the wood. What did you use?
What brand pocket tool pouch are you wearing? Looks handy and out-of the-way. Terrific video, by the way. Thanks! -Nick
No clue, may have been off the shelf. I havent been wearing it lately.
Why did you dowel the tenons? You defeated the whole point of having elongated mortises to allow for wood movement. Now the tenons are pinned to the boards which are glued in place on the table. You should have made elongated holes in the tenons to allow for lateral movement OR left the pins off entirely. I don't think they were necessary. You talked about a "rookie mistake" on the video., and this was a remake. I think you made another mistake on this one.... unless I'm missing sumthin?
The sloppiness in the mortise allows for the movement in the tenon. Theres like 1000 comments on this and conversations and debates. Check those out in the other comments for more info. Also read the article in the description I linked to!
@@John_Malecki The sloppiness in the mortise between breadboard and tenon is no good because the dowel is pinning the tenon tight to the breadboard.
@@sampangolin
Agree 100 % with you, the drilled hole in the Domino needs to be elongated as well.
Are the tenon's shorter than the mortise on the breadboard? Seems like that is key. Because the tenon can pivot on the pin and has room side to side to pivot, but if there's no room behind the tenon, the breadboard will be forced to separate or the pin to bend (the weakest connection). If the tenon is left wiggle room to pivot on the pin, you could set the pin straight through. Then when the table expands, the breadboard to table joint will pull tighter.
+SublimeSimplicity yes. There's slop in the mortise for movement both side to side and a few mm in the depth of the cut as well.
Looks good to me, thanks!
Love the video brother, simple and easy tutorial.. I love the way you glued up the pins as well. Question, what are the dimensions of your breadboard in relation to your table top boards? And, was that a 12 millimeter bit you were using?
1/2" Bit and the breadboard itself is 8"
Its been a few years now, how is this holding up?
The Festool looks awesome! Would the 500 model work just as good for building farmhouse tables with breadboard ends?
I would suggest using the XL just because you want a bigger tenon
Awesome, thanks John for your input! Will definitely be getting this!@@John_Malecki
Hey John, does the 700 XL need an additional bit cutter for the 5 1/2" tenons? Or does it come with it?
Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong, but don't the pins lock the whole thing in place? If you don't drill the holes in the BB end of the dominoes before installing the BB end and elongate them, aren't you locking them in place when you drive the dowel in?
I was thinking the same... To me it looks like everything is snug even though its not glued into the breadboard there is still no room to move. Correct me if Im wrong but normally the tenon is slightly smaller than the female socket and also has an elongated hole to allow the pin to move side to side in the tenon. While also holding the breadboard tight to the end.
However if the table is going to be in a conditioned space. It probably wont move all that much anyway.
Yeah I was gonna say the same thing...the holes in the tenons have to be elongated.
The theory is that the domino will flex in the joint because it is sloppy and a softer wood.
The theory is the domino will move in the sloppy joint. there will be enough flex that it shouldnt pop
So did your table crack yet?
how wide can your breadboard be without risking failure?
If I am building a table out of 2" x 6" boards for both the main body and the breadboard ends, do I need the XL domino or do you think it can work fine with the regular 500 domino?
i would suggest the Xl and also please make sure those are kiln dried.
John Malecki are the dominoes that festool sells kiln dried?
Yes they are !
John Malecki Thanks big cat! I will send you a picture when I have it complete. I’m not sure why there are so many negative posts about Festool. The domino seems like an incredible tool for joinery.
What type of finish do you use on your tables? Does poly crack with all the movement that is expected?
Check out my favorite finishes on my Kit. But I use GEneral finishes endurovar on reclaimed wood
Could you biscuit instead of domino for the breadboard end? Would it be strong enough to hold?
No. Biscuits are not made of solid wood. The domino is an actual tenon
I think if you were clever and made your own solid wood biscuits...perhaps. But they lack the length of dominoes or even dowels. Last time I did such and breadboard end I just used long screws and elongated holes.
Hey John - For the boards in the middle, how are they interconnected?
Jay Hal I'm guessing dominoes 😁
need to widen the loose domino slots
What kind of wood did you use?
I’m confused as to what the dowels are actually doing... they aren’t drawbore pins so I’m just curious besides aesthetics what they accomplished
So, if you are using regular tenons instead of floating, is it better to have them longer, possibly through tenons?
You can, dont have to though. I believe Jay Bates has a video of his table with an through tenon.
Reverend Blair the only place you'd want a through tenon would be in the middle. That's how Jay did his table. All the other tenons need to move, so you can't really do them through without leaving unsightly gaps for expansion.
Well, I happen to be a fan of unsightly gaps. Not a fan of You Tube going all Disney though, so take as you may.
You raise a good point though. More than that, you be right...as long as You Tube hasn't blocked talking like a pirate too. Yar.
Antique Cypress?
Nah, hemlock and pine
@@John_MaleckiThanks for clarifying. Nice job on the table man! We have used the floating tenon method before and used plywood for the tenons. I went back old school and do a traditional breadboard on all tables now. I work with antique lumber frequently. A lot of antique cypress looks similar. I am fixing to clean up some old heart pine joists for a project. Keep up the good work! "The Cajun Craftsman" Check this out: facebook.com/Donald.Thibodaux/media_set?set=a.10214405966850277&type=3
Quick and easy with this 3000$ tool guys
How to create bread board ends fast and easy! With a festool domino
To save buying an expensive domino cutting tool. Could you use dowels?
Or build a jig and use a Palm router to make slots.
Bro what happened to you. Lol. You look like you could block someone on this video. Now, your just blocking your arteries hahaha. All kidding I am just jealous. Keep up the good work
But this is wrong :) It will work only if the holes in tenons have a "pill shape". In other words, the pin need space to move sideways. If you are drilling holes and put pins after board is glued, then it is just pointless, it will not work.
So just so I am clear.... (For example sake) if i had three spot where I was putting dominos it would be 1. Table Loose Glue Breadboard Loose 2. Table Tight Glue Breadboard Tight Glue 3. Table Loose Glue Breadboard Loose. Then peg them all!!
Also.... I know I am two years behind but I am so triggered that you didn't put Festool Domino in your title; I am going to my safe space after this.
Another Festool demo.......
Not at all. Applying a tool in a different situation.
Yes, but ...Not for everyone but still a slick technique.
My works too. Used Woodprix handbooks and build it with no problems.
Quick and easy and only $750!
Scott Border to be fair he did say quick and easy, he made no mention of cheap
I'm sure like most capital outlay, the cost of the tool is amortized over many years, not one project. It is a basic accounting method. 100 projects translates to 7.50 per project. Time is money when doing this for a living. The client doesn't care, neither does the table.
Exactly what I was thinking.
:(
Nice technique, though.
I didnt understand why you put the dowels. They go through the dominos? Won't this bend the domino when the table expands?
nvm, just read the comment below.
Is there a cheaper alternative to a $1000 festool domino? I plan on making my own coffee table, and dining room table but can't justify spending $1000+ on 1 tool.
you can do the same thing with a plunge router
The breadboard ends here seem purely for show, and no drawbored tenons in sight.
Yep hopefully he learned in future builds that he needed to make it drawbored to keep the BB tight to the rest of the table.
You could of made this video really fast and said, “I’m using a domino cutter”! The end.
A not so squirrely John, it’s weird.
stopped watching when I saw festool
Im sorry to hear that. A floating tenon technique is something very useful to use.
You can do the same thing with a router and a mortising jig. This is probably the way he should have demoed it being done, given that his target audience is RUclips and not a festool convention. This comes off as, "check out this super simple technique that only requires a $1500 biscuit jointer"
i wonder how strong it is though vs the normal way of doing it
+African Cichlids I'll stand on it and it won't snap.
"quick and easy". pulls out a festool biscuit joiner.
This is incorrect, without widening the holes drilled through the dominos there will not allow table movement as the breadboard should allow
Quick and easy breadboard ends! Step 1. Buy an extremely expensive and specialized piece of equipment inaccessible to most woodworkers
+thisgoestoeleven or you can stop being salty and use the joinery method of floating tenons to do the same thing.....
I would say the guitar in your thumbnail is or can be an expensive and specialized piece of equipment that does one thing. P... off.