Totally appreciate the commentary. Really helpful to understand why you do what you do and why you made the choices you do. When people don’t do the commentary I just fast forward through and see the results. Still interesting but not as good a way to learn something. Thanks for sharing
I like that spring joint idea - I'll have to incorporate that into my breadboard ends. A few suggestions: 1.) I like to drill the peg holes through the end piece first, then put it onto the table top, then tap a brad point bit into the hole to mark the exact center on the tenons of the table top. Then remove the end and drill the hole through the tenons, but offsetting the hole just SLIGHTLY towards the middle of the table. That way when you drive the pegs in it will draw the breadboard end into the table top. 2.) Obviously you can't glue the outside pegs, but you can drive them 3/4 of the way in, then add a little bit of glue to the top of the dowel before driving it the remaining 1/4 of the way in. That way the peg is not glued inside the tenon, only fixed to the breadboard end itself on top and will keep it in place and nicely flush with the top.
Great tip and thanks for sharing. I did put epoxy on the outside pins just didn’t show it in the video. I really think if you over do the drawbore you might defeat the purpose of the joint as the drawbore May impede on the movement of the table top.
@@AndyRawls that is indeed something I wouldn't have thought about, drawboring preventing easy wood movement. Having said this I applied it to the mortise and tenon joint of my workbench, and it is a pretty robust joint now
@@AndyRawls I'm with you on that. The first time I did it I moved the hole over maybe 1/32" - that's way too far! I almost couldn't drive my pegs through. I think 1/64" is about right. In any case, your sprung joint achieves something similar. It seems like it would be ideal to use the sprung joint to hold the outsides tight, then maybe drawbore the inner 1 to 3 pegs to hold them tight.
Thanks Andy, I have watched a lot of videos on how to do BB ends properly, but your demonstration ranks in the top 3 for me. BTW I much prefer to hear your narration than just a video with music in the background as with a lot of others.
Thanks Andy, I was looking forward to seeing this when I watched the shop update video a little while ago. One of my first projects as a gateway into woodworking was a DIY farmhouse table and long story short I had issue with boards settling/adjusting. I love learning more and more about joinery rather than using hardware and strive to incorporate that into my builds
I've used a Festool Domino tool to cut the mortices wide. I then machined shared tenons the same thickness as the Festool Dominos but wider. Blind holes through the tenons which has lateral play for expansion and pegged with dowels. Worked well. 🇦🇺
Absolutely beautiful build and craftsmanship. Would you ever offer any "classes" to local or those willing to make the trip? I'd love to learn from you, although I do that through your videos. Thanks!
That dedicated mortiser is great ! I have the adaptor for my drill press but that one is PERFECT ! This is the first time I have seen this tennon way. It makes a lot of sense to do it like this. Sweet build Andy !
Does anyone else find it funny that he has all this amazing equipment in his shop and uses that tiny, beat-up cart for his workbench? Love your stuff. Great info in this video!
Hi Andy, I also made a breadboard on my dining table, but I decided to cut the tenon of the table top on the spindle moulder. Damn had a hard time pulling it straight as it was warped a little, wish I had applied your method with a router - a lot easier.
What are you in college for? My art professor was like that. He even helped advise me on what tablesaw to buy, and made a special trip to my house to look at it and tell me what needed fixing!
Great instruction, Andy. Couldn't you have made and extended base for the router for cleaning up the outer portion of the tenons? That would allow you use the router the whole way without worrying about it tipping. Also, that mortiser is a powered version of the antique mortiser that Roy Underhill (The Woodwright Shop on PBS) uses in his shop. Take care. Bill
Andy, Thank you for the video. I noticed that you have a Sawstop Table saw with the sliding table extension. Have you done any videos with that in use? I am trying to get back into woodworking and I have been looking at the Sawstop and other than demos of the Sawstop there are limited videos on the sliding tables usage. Thanks for any reply
I always struggle to get a good lacquer on tables. You had a video 4 years ago about lacquer but there are new products. Could you consider making an update about it?
New subscriber here Andy, beautiful work!! Do you ha e a video on tenant you used to achieve the exact finish on that table and bench set? Thanks, Adam
I am offering free help around the shop for tasks nobody wants to do.. basically a gopher in exchange for your knowledge. I live in SA and would be able to come in on days I’m not working at the VA. Your videos are amazing. Thanks
Nice vid as a novice hand carver I've been stumped on something I think you could do well atm I'm making a skull from white oak but it's now grub/worm wood so therefore shall we compare results? I'd love to see howd you would do?
I heard you mention leaving the over hang on the breadboard ends so that you if the main table top was to expand it would not expand past the bread board end. In your final shot of the table, that over hang seems to be pretty noticeable. Will the table start to expand that quickly that the over hang no longer becomes so noticeable?
Hey man, excellent video. You should check out the Samurai Carpenter’s channel. He made a router base plate out of plexiglass designed specifically to fix the issue of the router rocking when cutting material far from the edge. He’s pretty cool...for a Canadian.
So when I think of breadboard ends I think of the holes being offset from each other so when the peg is hammered home it pulls the morticed piece into the tenon locking it in.
so rather than traditional draw boring, you're using the clamps to draw the bread board on, then drill your holes!?! Looks like it to me. Hell of a trick! Beautiful work dude!
Thanks for the instruction! A question if I may, on the 3/16 you left the breadboards hang over, does that number change dependent on the overall table width?
Now that is a real question . Hope you get an answer . I would guess any normal size table would be very close to that . May depend more on your location as humidity varies .
You can actually calculate the amount of movement you’ll get using this online calculator www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage You can leave less on a quarter-sawn top than in a flat-sawn top. There’s a lot of factors the play into how much movement there will be so I just leave around the 3/16”. Unless you’re putting the table outside that should be plenty.
I had a guy argue with me about leaving breadboards proud 3/16 of an inch for swelling. He says wood will always contract more than it expands. Can you elaborate on this. I agree with you btw
Are all the pins actually required or is it just for looks? The end of the bread boards are forced into such a tight joint by the slight concave curve planed into the joint. Wouldn't only the center pins really be required? If it's just and esthetic choice I can see that since it does look great.
Andy - how much wood movement do you see? I am going to be making a kitchen table eventually, but I’d like less than 3/16th” on the breadboard. I’m in California (near the coast but in the foothills), and it’s pretty dry/hot here. I was thinking a 1/16th might be enough. My current (purchased) table has a fake breadboard (lines routed in to mimic the design) and the “pegs” are in the table not the breadboard as if the breadboard was the tenon and the table had the mortise. Not impossible I suppose, but would make for a more complicated build I would think if it was real.
Made my first bread board serving board today. Not as pretty or as accurate as yours, but definately happy with the result. Thanks for the inspiration today mate
Yeah but I’ve found it melts away fast and I get a little worries if wax collects on the sidewall of the mortise. That might effect how the glue bonds the joint
Am I the only one that looks in the background to see what kind of stuff ends up piling up in all the corners of other people's shops? I do, makes me feel not so alone :P
These are breadboard ends or breadboard joints. I would like to point out some people change a joint to the extent that it no longer is that joint. A method using dominoes has been spreading on the web proclaiming this to be an easy or trick way to make this joint has begun to confuse people. So, on my mighty stead I ride. I find that many people are calling this Dominoe method of producing a Breadboard joint as an easy or trick method, should realize that this isn't a breadboard joint (or breadboard end) anymore. This is one reason it is easier since it isn't the joint anymore. This is a specific kind of joint and using dominoes has varied so far from this joint as to not be this joint anymore. I would also challenge those who think that it is, to consider if one made in the same way with dowels would still be a breadboard joint or if the dowels were totally eliminated and used a butt joint was still a breadboard end. It isn't the application of a board across the grain which produces this joint but the method of joinery, and the reason for doing this joinery in the first place.
I have a couple of questions. First, I noticed you did not use the draw boarding technique. Was this because it somehow wasn't appropriate for this build or is it more of you don't find it necessary? Second question is I noticed in the added video of the finished product that you left the bread board ends proud on the side. Why is that? Beautiful build and I am subscribed. Thanks Andy!!
Eric Ruggiero He left the breadboard ends slightly proud so that when the top expands it will not overhang the breadboard ends. Andy explains this at 13:00. Go back and look.
Love that you genuinely seem like a student of woodworking. Never pretentious, always practicing, always learning.
I could watch you craft all day!! You are a true craftsman! Thanks for bringing us along on your journey.
Totally appreciate the commentary. Really helpful to understand why you do what you do and why you made the choices you do. When people don’t do the commentary I just fast forward through and see the results. Still interesting but not as good a way to learn something. Thanks for sharing
I like that spring joint idea - I'll have to incorporate that into my breadboard ends. A few suggestions:
1.) I like to drill the peg holes through the end piece first, then put it onto the table top, then tap a brad point bit into the hole to mark the exact center on the tenons of the table top. Then remove the end and drill the hole through the tenons, but offsetting the hole just SLIGHTLY towards the middle of the table. That way when you drive the pegs in it will draw the breadboard end into the table top.
2.) Obviously you can't glue the outside pegs, but you can drive them 3/4 of the way in, then add a little bit of glue to the top of the dowel before driving it the remaining 1/4 of the way in. That way the peg is not glued inside the tenon, only fixed to the breadboard end itself on top and will keep it in place and nicely flush with the top.
Same two tips I was going to suggest. Anyone else interested in this can look up "draw boring technique".
Great tip and thanks for sharing. I did put epoxy on the outside pins just didn’t show it in the video. I really think if you over do the drawbore you might defeat the purpose of the joint as the drawbore May impede on the movement of the table top.
@@AndyRawls that is indeed something I wouldn't have thought about, drawboring preventing easy wood movement. Having said this I applied it to the mortise and tenon joint of my workbench, and it is a pretty robust joint now
@@AndyRawls I'm with you on that. The first time I did it I moved the hole over maybe 1/32" - that's way too far! I almost couldn't drive my pegs through. I think 1/64" is about right. In any case, your sprung joint achieves something similar. It seems like it would be ideal to use the sprung joint to hold the outsides tight, then maybe drawbore the inner 1 to 3 pegs to hold them tight.
Thanks Andy, I have watched a lot of videos on how to do BB ends properly, but your demonstration ranks in the top 3 for me. BTW I much prefer to hear your narration than just a video with music in the background as with a lot of others.
Agree on both points.
Like to see him make one of those wood tool boxes.
Andy, what do you find so fulfilling about woodworking? it kind of seems complicated, yet simple. I do LOVE your work in creating REAL furniture.
Thanks Andy, I was looking forward to seeing this when I watched the shop update video a little while ago. One of my first projects as a gateway into woodworking was a DIY farmhouse table and long story short I had issue with boards settling/adjusting. I love learning more and more about joinery rather than using hardware and strive to incorporate that into my builds
The table and benches are absolutely gorgeous, Andy! I know you must be very proud of it! Great video!!!
Thanks Dr. Lee👍
I've used a Festool Domino tool to cut the mortices wide. I then machined shared tenons the same thickness as the Festool Dominos but wider. Blind holes through the tenons which has lateral play for expansion and pegged with dowels. Worked well. 🇦🇺
Absolutely beautiful build and craftsmanship. Would you ever offer any "classes" to local or those willing to make the trip? I'd love to learn from you, although I do that through your videos. Thanks!
Another project done well and looks great. Such skills.
first time I see a mortising unit without all the smoke. Great video. Keep it up.
That dedicated mortiser is great ! I have the adaptor for my drill press but that one is PERFECT ! This is the first time I have seen this tennon way. It makes a lot of sense to do it like this. Sweet build Andy !
Does anyone else find it funny that he has all this amazing equipment in his shop and uses that tiny, beat-up cart for his workbench? Love your stuff. Great info in this video!
your control of the router is insane😁😁 awesome video
Beautiful Work! You are very talented. Thank you for sharing.
Perfect timing for me and my son. He's wanting to build an adjustable desk for himself. Thanks for posting and well done...new subscriber here!
Absolutely beautiful table!!!
Saw many ways to do this . I liked your version the best . Great video .
This video educated me about spring clamping 👍
Hi Andy, I also made a breadboard on my dining table, but I decided to cut the tenon of the table top on the spindle moulder. Damn had a hard time pulling it straight as it was warped a little, wish I had applied your method with a router - a lot easier.
Great work Andy! Love your work mate.
I got myself a japanese saw rasp my teacher at college has one and i like them they are really good! I was always borrowing his in the workshop
What are you in college for?
My art professor was like that. He even helped advise me on what tablesaw to buy, and made a special trip to my house to look at it and tell me what needed fixing!
@@woodworkerroyer8497 i am doing joinery. At home i made my own bench and bird table i am currently wanting to make a table to go with my bench
I'd give anything if I had a shop like that! You have true talent man! I learn alot from your videos! Thanks
Awesome work Andy. From one Texas Rawls to another.
thank you very much! i was looking for this and just came rigth to your chanel
Beautiful table. Great work.
Great job as always Dude! Absolutely amazing!!!
Excellent video, I learned so much, thank you, beautiful work Andy!
Excellent video. Great job !
Thanks Andy love your work👍😊you put a lot of knowledge bombs in your videos👍😊
Its beautiful! Just had to research the origin of the term ' Breadbord Ends'...interesting. Thanks.
Nice video. Table turned out beautiful
Great instruction, Andy. Couldn't you have made and extended base for the router for cleaning up the outer portion of the tenons? That would allow you use the router the whole way without worrying about it tipping. Also, that mortiser is a powered version of the antique mortiser that Roy Underhill (The Woodwright Shop on PBS) uses in his shop. Take care.
Bill
Learned a lot. Thanks for the video, Andy.
Andy, Thank you for the video. I noticed that you have a Sawstop Table saw with the sliding table extension. Have you done any videos with that in use? I am trying to get back into woodworking and I have been looking at the Sawstop and other than demos of the Sawstop there are limited videos on the sliding tables usage. Thanks for any reply
That wood is gorgeous.
Enjoyed the video thanks for taking the time to share you have a blessed day
I always struggle to get a good lacquer on tables. You had a video 4 years ago about lacquer but there are new products. Could you consider making an update about it?
New subscriber here Andy, beautiful work!! Do you ha e a video on tenant you used to achieve the exact finish on that table and bench set?
Thanks,
Adam
Without the "voiceover" sucks! It's basically ASMR at that point. I love the voiceover; it helps me understand what you're doing.
Great video! Love the hand plane.
Super enjoyed that video!
That Oliver mortiser is drool worthy.
I am offering free help around the shop for tasks nobody wants to do.. basically a gopher in exchange for your knowledge. I live in SA and would be able to come in on days I’m not working at the VA.
Your videos are amazing. Thanks
Andy, great video. I read through the comments but did not see this question. What do the multiple haunch tenons add versus a single full width tenon?
Nice vid as a novice hand carver I've been stumped on something I think you could do well atm I'm making a skull from white oak but it's now grub/worm wood so therefore shall we compare results? I'd love to see howd you would do?
Great job!
Thank you very much.
I heard you mention leaving the over hang on the breadboard ends so that you if the main table top was to expand it would not expand past the bread board end. In your final shot of the table, that over hang seems to be pretty noticeable. Will the table start to expand that quickly that the over hang no longer becomes so noticeable?
I cut it with a track saw. There was around 3/16” overhang
Cool shop man!
First time viewer. I love your work.
Very nice made 👍👍👍
Beautiful Andy
I wanted to do this on a table I have started. But not sure if I can do it with a 24” wide bread board end.
Joss lah kang gaweane....👍👍👍
you earned your tools brother
With my friends we loved to look your videos in the ore high school in Belgium the green tree Boys like your videos man
Much better with the voice over
Go Bolts!!⚡️⚡️
Only watched The Office five times through? Those are rookie numbers, sir! Great video and thank you for consistently awesome content.
You joke about this but my wife has been watching the office on repeat for about 5 years.
Haha! Yeah I need to step it up!
This joinery is my bread and butter
Hey man, excellent video. You should check out the Samurai Carpenter’s channel. He made a router base plate out of plexiglass designed specifically to fix the issue of the router rocking when cutting material far from the edge. He’s pretty cool...for a Canadian.
Love this channel
Andy, do you find drawboring to be unnecessary if you clamp the heck out of it when you drill holes in the tenons?
Does the spring board shape (slight bow) eliminate the need to do draw-boring of the pegs?
Excellent video. Can someone explain why not to expand the hole in the middle tenon @ 12:00?
So when I think of breadboard ends I think of the holes being offset from each other so when the peg is hammered home it pulls the morticed piece into the tenon locking it in.
Awesome video. So If I want to make a cutting board with breadboard ends its the same thing just smaller right?
Yes!
so rather than traditional draw boring, you're using the clamps to draw the bread board on, then drill your holes!?! Looks like it to me. Hell of a trick! Beautiful work dude!
What is your glue method for bread board? It looked like u glue the sides different. Thanks
Very nice!
Thanks for the instruction! A question if I may, on the 3/16 you left the breadboards hang over, does that number change dependent on the overall table width?
Now that is a real question . Hope you get an answer . I would guess any normal size table would be very close to that . May depend more on your location as humidity varies .
You can actually calculate the amount of movement you’ll get using this online calculator www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage
You can leave less on a quarter-sawn top than in a flat-sawn top. There’s a lot of factors the play into how much movement there will be so I just leave around the 3/16”. Unless you’re putting the table outside that should be plenty.
I am also a carpenter, but your work is perfect.
Subscribe.
Those Office watch through numbers are weak bro...pump up those numbers! Best show ever, agreed.
Haha! I’ll try👍
I had a guy argue with me about leaving breadboards proud 3/16 of an inch for swelling. He says wood will always contract more than it expands. Can you elaborate on this. I agree with you btw
Looks like a door to me!
Good job
Are all the pins actually required or is it just for looks? The end of the bread boards are forced into such a tight joint by the slight concave curve planed into the joint. Wouldn't only the center pins really be required? If it's just and esthetic choice I can see that since it does look great.
No you need the pins overtime I would be worried it light come loose
If you screw a board on the end of the table you can use your router to cut the tongue, just screw we’re the cut out are. Faster and clearer
I don’t see how this would work...
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
So will those broad board ends (that stick out on the side) eventually become flush?
Twice a year, yes. Once as the wood expands and once as it contracts. :)
Andy - how much wood movement do you see? I am going to be making a kitchen table eventually, but I’d like less than 3/16th” on the breadboard. I’m in California (near the coast but in the foothills), and it’s pretty dry/hot here. I was thinking a 1/16th might be enough. My current (purchased) table has a fake breadboard (lines routed in to mimic the design) and the “pegs” are in the table not the breadboard as if the breadboard was the tenon and the table had the mortise. Not impossible I suppose, but would make for a more complicated build I would think if it was real.
Hi Rodd. I think you got his name wrong...
Branden - like to think that was autocorrect... :)
@@toddlarsen6215 🤣 your name made it easy to have a bit of fun
Here’s a good calculator www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage
Made my first bread board serving board today. Not as pretty or as accurate as yours, but definately happy with the result. Thanks for the inspiration today mate
Good video
I love when people use the sprung joint on a bread board end. That way I Don't need to recommend it. :D
Have you tried waxing the chisel part of the mortiser as well? I know it helps me when using hand planes.
Yeah but I’ve found it melts away fast and I get a little worries if wax collects on the sidewall of the mortise. That might effect how the glue bonds the joint
When you blew the sawdust off at the camera, I blinked!
Am I the only one that looks in the background to see what kind of stuff ends up piling up in all the corners of other people's shops? I do, makes me feel not so alone :P
Wow, I am really glad I watched this, that table is amazing, so beautiful!!!!
These are breadboard ends or breadboard joints.
I would like to point out some people change a joint to the extent that it no longer is that joint. A method using dominoes has been spreading on the web proclaiming this to be an easy or trick way to make this joint has begun to confuse people. So, on my mighty stead I ride.
I find that many people are calling this Dominoe method of producing a Breadboard joint as an easy or trick method, should realize that this isn't a breadboard joint (or breadboard end) anymore. This is one reason it is easier since it isn't the joint anymore.
This is a specific kind of joint and using dominoes has varied so far from this joint as to not be this joint anymore. I would also challenge those who think that it is, to consider if one made in the same way with dowels would still be a breadboard joint or if the dowels were totally eliminated and used a butt joint was still a breadboard end.
It isn't the application of a board across the grain which produces this joint but the method of joinery, and the reason for doing this joinery in the first place.
What do you use to finish? Beautiful work.
I his was a conversion varnish from general finishes
I'm assuming that you don't need to draw bore those tenons because you used a spring joint?
Yes plus I’ve never used a drawbore on breadboard ends.
I bet you could do that whole job with a router. You'd just have to add a larger base to the router that you could hold down on the tabletop.
You definitely could!
Привет из России 👍
I have a couple of questions. First, I noticed you did not use the draw boarding technique. Was this because it somehow wasn't appropriate for this build or is it more of you don't find it necessary? Second question is I noticed in the added video of the finished product that you left the bread board ends proud on the side. Why is that? Beautiful build and I am subscribed. Thanks Andy!!
He said in the vid why he left the breadbord ends longer
@@2piernik2 He said why he left them longer for the dry fit, not the end product.
Eric Ruggiero He left the breadboard ends slightly proud so that when the top expands it will not overhang the breadboard ends. Andy explains this at 13:00. Go back and look.
Thank you.
How thin a material can you reliably use for this?
I wouldn't go less then 1 1/4"
I’ve done 3/8” ruclips.net/video/SWkeU3K5GRY/видео.html
What the heck is that stainless double-tee marking gauge??
Breadboard board stretcher.
How did you trim the ends to size? Router?
Track saw
Wouldn't you draw bore those dowels?