Love the way you just go for it with what you have. My Dad was like that and I always admired that quality in him. He could do some amazing things with surprisingly little.
Spot on Clay! As a suggestion I have been using leather dye of various colors on the back of the bow before applying the fabric snake skins. Very nice effects with vibrant colors come through or just plain flat black if you prefer a close resemblance to the real thing. The benefits of using the fabric as opposed to the real deal are more than just the cost savings. Well done sir!
Clay, I really enjoy your videos, and I've learned a lot from you, as a 70 years old beginner archer and bowyer. At the moment, I am using a Samick Sage bow at my club, and am wondering what kind of glue to use if I want to put an artificial snakeskin on these fibreglass limbs. Cheers!
Just backed my Sioux selfbow with artificial snake skin, as I don’t have any Truoil could you recommend any other product. I live in the uk, thanks, great video by the way 🤘
Hey Clay, I've noticed that all your bows have a pretty business looking profile, no deflex. Could you make a video with some tips about how you limit deflex in your bows? I've made a few self bows but they always end up with a certain amount of deflex, which, to me, translates to a slower weaker bow.
@@redbankdefense yeah Matt, but it amounts to the same thing. The more reflex a bow has, in my thinking, the more stored energy it has. The more set, deflex, a bow takes, the less energy it stores. That's why radical recurve bows, like the Turk flight bow, tend to be fast.
@@larryreese6146 not quite. Set happens from the wood cells in the belly being over worked and crushed. A bow with deflex purposely built into it either via heat/steaming into a stave or glued in a laminated build, those cells aren't damaged and retain their full strength. There is a large difference in a purposely deflexed bow and one that is taking on set due to poor design, tillering, or even wood that isn't quite dry enough.
@@larryreese6146 and you are correct, a working recurve does have more initial stored energy, especially at brace height and the first initial portion of draw than a standard d shaped bow, or a deflexed bow. If you pay close attention though, a lot of recurved bows are also purposely deflexed near the riser.
Clay, I have a question unrelated to this video. Been thinking about single bevel broadhead for cedar arrows. Are the tuffheads you use hunting sharp right out of the package. Other single bevel heads have very poor reviews concerning sharpness out of the package.
@@clayhayeshunter well thank you I love your videos and I've learned a lot from you. I've recently used the linseed oil on an eastern red cedar bow. So I'll see how durable it is I live in the south east so my concern is always this danged humidity lol
I have put a couple of these on. I used fiberglass resin and it worked very well.
Love the way you just go for it with what you have. My Dad was like that and I always admired that quality in him. He could do some amazing things with surprisingly little.
Thanks a lot for sharing Clay! I love your videos and your skills and find all your bow videos inspiring and helpful.
Spot on Clay! As a suggestion I have been using leather dye of various colors on the back of the bow before applying the fabric snake skins.
Very nice effects with vibrant colors come through or just plain flat black if you prefer a close resemblance to the real thing. The benefits of using the fabric as opposed to the real deal are more than just the cost savings. Well done sir!
Pretty nice, realistic copperhead skin. I understand the artificial skins come in a diamond back print as well.
Thanks for following up with this from Facebook. From a phone screen, that looks every bit as good as a real skin. I'd try it!
Looks really slick, I think I’m going to try some out.
Clay, I really enjoy your videos, and I've learned a lot from you, as a 70 years old beginner archer and bowyer. At the moment, I am using a Samick Sage bow at my club, and am wondering what kind of glue to use if I want to put an artificial snakeskin on these fibreglass limbs. Cheers!
Very cool. Looks great!!
Just backed my Sioux selfbow with artificial snake skin, as I don’t have any Truoil could you recommend any other product. I live in the uk, thanks, great video by the way 🤘
I wonder If that will stick to leather or vinyl with Titebond 3 glue?
Great info again
That's badass. Do you know where I can get a Osage stave about 58"
Clay will this process add draw weight to the bow. If so can you make a guess as to the increase.
I know you harvest your own staves but do you have a buyer you could recommend for those who don't have Osage available? Keep the videos coming!
I don’t currently have anyone I could personally recommend.
I have a traditional 67 '' 55 # laminated wood deflex-reflex bow which is a lot for me, what can I do to lower the bow power to 40 - 45 lbs?
Hey Clay, I've noticed that all your bows have a pretty business looking profile, no deflex. Could you make a video with some tips about how you limit deflex in your bows? I've made a few self bows but they always end up with a certain amount of deflex, which, to me, translates to a slower weaker bow.
I cover most aspects of bow building in my DVDs and on my Patreon site. I upload a new bow building video on Patreon each month.
That's not deflex- it's the limbs taking set, which could be caused by a few different factors
@@redbankdefense yeah Matt, but it amounts to the same thing. The more reflex a bow has, in my thinking, the more stored energy it has. The more set, deflex, a bow takes, the less energy it stores. That's why radical recurve bows, like the Turk flight bow, tend to be fast.
@@larryreese6146 not quite. Set happens from the wood cells in the belly being over worked and crushed. A bow with deflex purposely built into it either via heat/steaming into a stave or glued in a laminated build, those cells aren't damaged and retain their full strength. There is a large difference in a purposely deflexed bow and one that is taking on set due to poor design, tillering, or even wood that isn't quite dry enough.
@@larryreese6146 and you are correct, a working recurve does have more initial stored energy, especially at brace height and the first initial portion of draw than a standard d shaped bow, or a deflexed bow. If you pay close attention though, a lot of recurved bows are also purposely deflexed near the riser.
A work t-shirt isn't a work t-shirt until you've wiped off sawdust with it. 😁
Precisely
Clay, I have a question unrelated to this video. Been thinking about single bevel broadhead for cedar arrows. Are the tuffheads you use hunting sharp right out of the package. Other single bevel heads have very poor reviews concerning sharpness out of the package.
They’re pretty sharp but I always touch them up on a fine ceramic to get them super sharp.
Do you sell the skins/artificial skins and or bows
Kustom King and Crows head outfitters sells em. As does pine hollow longbows
Do these protect the back of the bow any or are they just for looks
Just for looks.
I'm new to archery and I would like to have a traditional bow made by me but I don't have the material and I think it's very difficult to make
It is extremely difficult if you never start!
Could this product
serve a a backing for let’s say, a cedar bow?
It’s just cosmetic
I have a takedown recurve bow in wood it´s a 66'' 38# at 28'' can i do this in my bow?
Sure
Hello Clay,where can I get these artificial snake skin ?
3RiversArchery.com
whould you do the same if you where going over rawhide
Would you use same glue on fiberglass bow ?
I’d use contact cement on a glass bow.
Will a miter file take off the finish of a manufactured bow?
A mill file would for sure.
Is boiled linseed oil just as good for bows as try oil?
Not sure. I’ve never used it.
@@clayhayeshunter well thank you I love your videos and I've learned a lot from you. I've recently used the linseed oil on an eastern red cedar bow. So I'll see how durable it is I live in the south east so my concern is always this danged humidity lol
Tru oil is just boiled linseed oil with drying agents. If you don't need it to dry very fast between coats, then you're good to go.
Parabens muito bom video que categoria eu tambem faco arco visita o canal Alex Rocha Ramos