How To Test A Clutch Pressure Plate
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- How to test a pressure plate for proper disengagement. My Jeep is having clutch disengagement issues so I check the pressure plate and it is good, which leaves me to believe it is a hydraulic issue. In my case, centerforce told me to compress the pressure plate 3/8” of an inch to make it rise at least .025”, all other vehicles will have a different spec but it is still an easy way to check. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe.
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He's not saying they're bad out of the box they're just really hard to bleed unless you get one that is pre bled from the factory and they do sell it if you've ever had to bleed a slave cylinder you would know
So informative. I’m glad you made this video.
Exedy, Centerforce good....Luk valeo bad...... If you can't shift after it gets hot like it 3:00 PM changing the master slaves not gonna help because you've got a bad pressure plate..... Been dealing with this for 2 years
Clutch fork make sure it is not worn out or slightly bent.
Hopefully you can figure it out and get it fixed soon. Fingers crossed
I get a severe vibration from my engine bay, when am about releasing the clutch and it reaches the biting point( its worse when am climbing sharp hills or reversing at low rpm between 1000rpm to 800rpm, while on 1st gear, thats when it happens). It only goes away when i press the accelarator pedal a bit and above 1000rpm and speeding or i put it in neutral, it becomes smooth as butter. I changed all my engine mounts and gearbox mounts, changed my clutch plate, changed spark plugs, cleaned my air and fuel line, changed fuel pump, new tires and its still happening. My mechanic says it might be a problem from the clutch pressure plate, but while it was disassemble earlier, by physical observation it was looking mechanically ok. Please, i need advise or help from anyone who knows better or has had similar experience to solve this problem. This is my 1st manual car and it wasn't vibrating this badly when i first got it, now am not too excited driving it. Thanks, ur enlightenment will be greatly appreciated.
So 3 or 4 slaves are bad out of the box?. Weird... Maybe the master is bad?
I will be changing the master soon. Hope that is the issue
You're meant to check it from the height the fingers will be when the clutch plate and pressure are are bolted to the flywheel. Because the fingers will be a lot lower then.
I would go mad if I had to drop the transmission as much as you have. Best wishes on getting it fixed.
I’m to the point now where I don’t mind dropping it haha. I just want to fix it
Go team rugged.
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Hey JK Gear i need your help, I cant shift up to any gear in my manual gear when high up in RPMS, the clutch flywheel, pressure plate, Throwoutbearring, gearbox oil, engine mount are new and replaced 1 month and 3000km ago. I drove 3000km fine with the new set and never had issues until someone else launched my car from a standstill. When he wanted to shift to 2nd during the hard laucn the tranny blocked.
Now you think the tranny is broken and that is wat I though so i replaced the tranny but the problem still exists. I checked the TOB with a micro camera and it does move instantly when i press the clutch pedal lightly, already bled the TOB and even replaced the shifting mechanism. Im clueless what is happening and hope you have any ideas
What brand of pressure plate has even fingers to eliminate clutch fork vibration?
No idea
Hi
After 30 min of driving is hard to get in and out of gear
I changed the oil and still same problem...
On cold no problem
Manual dual mass flywheel
Any ideas please 🙏
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Cool. This is for everybody. Because everybody has a fucking press just laying around 👍
Well, not sure how else your gonna check it, goodluck… find a buddy who has a $70 harbor freight press, it’s not like it’s a $1,000 piece of machinery.
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I have an old amc stage 5 pressure plate that I’ve been holding into. I wanted to reuse it when I bought my new clutch kit but I just dropped in my new kit and let it be.... I want to know if it’s possible or safe to rebuild it, as if to swap the mating surface from an identical kit or have it done some place if its worth it?
if you could help me! why the diaphragm of the luk sac clutch mechanism (automatic adjustment) remains blocked and does not go up. I used the cross tool to mount it. what is the mistake the mechanic made?
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My whole transmission is completely rebuilt brand new and it makes a noise between each year but only when driving when pressing the clutch and releasing it it sounds like a boat motor for just a second any ideas?
Hope you find the issue in time.
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Hey, I’m having a similar problem. It started for a while, then began working normal, now it’s at it again. When I push the clutch in, it doesn’t want to go into first gear or reverse. The only way to get it in is to have it in gear when I start the motor, then when I’m shifting gears, I have to watch and make sure the rpm’s are close to where the gear ratio naturally falls into place. It’s a Deisel truck so it doesn’t turn as fast as cars and I can work it similar to a double clutch. But what has me concerned is that it stopped and began working fine, then started acting up again. There aren’t any leaks, it’s just difficult to switch gears.
Interesting
Hey Bud, did you ever fix the clutch disengagement issue?
Could have been your clutch fork
Go team rugged
I have a v8 chevy 12 inch plate sow can i do this?
Hey Ben! I will be dropping my trans and putting in a new clutch on my 2010 Rubicon here soon (maybe after winter in Wisconsin). And was wondering you could through up a video or just send me some tips on how you dropped your trans at your house. I'll be doing it in my garage on jack stands with my dad. Biggest thing I'm wondering is lowing the transmission without a trans jack. Thanks!
There is a good write up online that I followed. It is mostly straight forward, but it’s easier to remove the tcase first and then the trans. But you will need a trans jack, It would be a bit## to get it back lined up during the reinstall without one. See if you can borrow someone’s around you, I’m sure someone has one they would let go for a weekend for a couple bucks.
Thanks but i need this in metric please
Looks like its hydraulic
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Hey Ben whay did you ever figure out on your clutch? I'm fixn to do the clutch in my 2010 jk. I ordered a centerforce stage 2 kit without their flywheel. Im just going to have mine resurfaced. I also ordered a new fork, pivot ball and pilot bearing. Do I have everything covered? I also have to replace the slave due to it leaking. Just curious since I've watched your videos.
Never figured out what was wrong. Sounds like your doing it right, just change everything
I changed a few things at the same time, and it got better, so I could never pinpoint it to a single item
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thank you. needed to see this.!!!!!
Did you find the issue? I’m having the exact same issue. Cheers
I think it was hydraulic. I changed both master and slave cylinder
JK Gear and Gadgets I’ve replaced the clutch (stage 2) new dual mass flywheel,new slave cylinder new clutch master,all the seals on the clutch line (orings and wee rubber cap seals) new bleeder block,bled it up loads,and still have half a pedal 🙈
Ben I'm sitting on a centerforce dual friction clutch and flywheel combo for my 3.6L jk. I read reviews and people say the TOB isn't good at all on these.... Is that true? What do recommend I do?
get the national brand TOB, but honestly they are all sucky :(
@@JKGearandGadgets thank you Ben. Is there a particular size I would look for for proper fitment?
It’s just a brand of TOB, so you would need the one designed for our jeeps
@@JKGearandGadgets thanks again Ben.
Having the exact same problem driving me nuts. Have you managed to solve your issue?? Mine does not wanna go into 1st at all.
Mine was hydraulic, I changed out the master, slave and the line. Not sure which one fixed it. But they are a pain to bleed
@@JKGearandGadgets Bleeding the clutch is very easy to do by yourself, brotha.
Simply put teflon tape or a light grease around the slave's bleeder threads, ziptie a clear hose to the bleeder that is long enough to run to the reservoir.
Put the hose in the reservoir and make sure the reservoir is always full and that the hose end is always submerged.
Make the line long enough to reach the wipers first, then go down to the reservoir, so that when you are sitting in the driver's seat pumping the pedal, you can see when the bubbles disappear.
Start pumping pedal slowly so you can see the action of the bubbles through the hose.
It will only take you 5- 10 minutes to bleed, and you will have the best pedal you've ever had. 👍
Ps: You can pump quicker in the beginning to get the bulk of the air out, but, start pumping very slow as the big bubbles are expelled.
Very tiny bubbles still exist that you can't see whizzing by in the hose unless you pump extremely slow.
It will be obvious anyway, as you will have a strong pedal from the very top to the bottom once you get to that point.
STAY WHITE wouldn’t it just suck the fluid back in and out of the hose? I would think you would have to close the bleeder at some point
Try reverse bleeding the system first
Tried that. No luck 😂
JK Gear and Gadgets sounds like more new parts then good luck
yep, time to throw parts at it and get it fixed. need it ASAP
Go team rugged!