In defense of the rover, it does seem like a pretty sweet starter vehicle. It does what it was designed to do well, you just kept giving it new work to do 😉
24:40 There is a mod that will do exactly as you suggest: Allow players to grind batteries without destroying the power cells, but when batteries are built, they don't have free power. Most haven't been updated to accept the newer content batteries like Warfare, but "Recover Power Cells - Balanced" should work as he's active. His mod starts batteries at 5% charge. I have played with the mod on a lunar run and it adds a little bit of challenge. You'll need a stable source of power, of course, and finding out your batteries are dry at night on the moon can make things a bit spicy.
Typically what I do with trailers like this, is A: a much heavier tractor vehicle, and B: when I start pulling, I raise the front suspension off the ground with the height offset. That way I don't require jacks to park it, but also if I find myself on a slight incline, I can still level the trailer out with it's wheels. Also, no rotors in trailer hitches. I've found that they cause more problems than they solve even with rotor limits. Two hinges provide enough twist range that unless you're doing something HIGHLY inadvisable, trailers will mostly keep their wheels on the ground. The other thing I find is that the horizontal hinge for the trailer is best closest to the tractor, and if you need a vertical one, it's best closest to the trailer. Then the tongue that runs between them is functioning as a lever rather than a pair of them with two heavy objects exerting opposing stresses on them. (Because that's how you get clang.)
That is absolutely insane what you did with the timer block and the large rotor attach on small grid rotor sideways. I definitely use that little trick from now on. I'm used to having to do it vertically when I do that lol.
For welding 25cm blocks in SE2 I'm assuming they will just add a small AoE to your hand welder like the vehicle welders have. This will allow you to weld a bunch of tiny blocks or a single large block all at once. No idea if this is what they will actually do, but it's the most logical solution to the problem.
the best hitch connection is Adv. Rotor set flat facing up. elbow conveyor, 2x hinges the second one set 90 degrees off from the first. both sides connected via sg conveyors. the Assembler and Refinery can be mag plate locked onto the trailer deck with cargo containers for storing the big stuff. connectors can convert sg to LG for power transfer so Batteries can be placed underneath the trailer deck to pull the balance and CoM down for stability. tandem wheel "axles" for weight distribution. a split, 6 Axle set up will require a rotor to allow the front wheelset to rotate separate from the back set. your hitch will thus connect into the lead bogie. if this is not done, your lead wheelset will scrub and drag sharply limiting your turning ability since the trailer is heavier than the tractor.
I think the reason your having issues turning is because once you start getting lateral motion on the trailer you're essentially dragging those front trailer tires on the ground which produces too much drag. A better way may be to install a rotor on top of your truck and have a rotor part attached to the trailer that you can attach into the rotor. Then have some pistons below the trailer that you can use to hold it up when not attached to the truck and also to adjust the level of the trailer. And no tires on the front of the trailer. Think of a tractor trailer 18 wheeler setup. Also if the rotor is attached forward of the rear truck tires it will apply some weight to the front tires of your truck making steering easier.
Reduce to 4 wheels a side, center mount them under your trailer. Next, look at how dump trailers work on like a 10 wheeler dump truck. Long tongue, but the pivot point is still at the back of the truck. Theres a reason, slide your hitch closer to your pull vehicle. As for propelling the combination, be gentle, have your pull rig doing around 15% more work then the trailer, or it'll be hard to control pushing your pull rig everywhere. It'll be prone to losing control. Next thing id suggest is reduced wheel strength, you dont want them so strong that they have no flex (ask w4sted, we all know hes a wheel guy and hes not wrong here), leave some room for travel at the top of the suspensions so the suspension can do its job. I also firmly agree with him on Air shocks, turn those off. The heavier you get the worse they are. They over compensate on the regular. Your lead and trailing set of wheels on the trailer, reduce the friction to almost nothing so it doesnt bind up and work against you, they dont need to steer, but they dont need to much more then support the load either. Wouldnt even use them for propulsion. Good luck, thanks for the video. Interesting trailer for sure. But that hitch is gonna wanna keep binding up with your pivot so far away from your pull rig and that much spread between the wheel sets. SE is bad enough about wheels without you gimping yourself on the process.
Trailers work best following the 2/3 rule for wheel placement. Meaning the wheels should be 2/3 of the way down the length of the trailer from the hing point.
Splitsie did an SE2 stream at Keen HQ where he said he thought they had a good solution for welding up those tiny blocks in survival but they weren't ready to say what it is publicly yet. We'll have to see.
I think you want the trailers rotation axis just above the back wheels not half way back that conveyor shaft. Like put an advanced rotor where the conveyor converter is, and go back from there instead of the hinge. With it in the middle of the converter you are having to fight the trailer to turn.
Just a suggestion, for the hitch, why not put an advanced rotor with a right angled connector to the top of the adaptor mounted on the modular cargo. Then you just need the pitch hinge and roll rotor in the towing boom. Basically a version of the 5th wheel on a semi trailer. As for the tracks on the trailer, putting a short track in the middle of the trailer is your only hope of turning the thing since tracks don't steer.
I suggest that the wheels of the trailer use custom suspension with a rotor and a hinge to allow rotation if you want to keep 4 sets of tires. better, you can use a prog block to get the angle between your trailer and the rover and force the trailer wheels to turn/steer accordingly
I have an idea that will help with steering but I may not describe it very well. Jack up the front of the trailer on a piston and then cut off the front wheels and part if the bed and then build an upside down rotor and rebuild the wheels on a little wheel bogie (like a train) and then they will rotate and the back of the trailer will follow it when you are towing. Maybe slap a solar panel on top of the trailer for a little power unless its against the rules?
You'll need to lower the friction on the back wheels because when you are turning you are dragging them sideways. Don't make it 0 though because then you'll end up with floppy jackknife syndrome :P
Another way to go about building your trailer would have been instead of starting with the bed in small grids, to start from the large blocks (Build them high with a landing gear or just another block under them) and use a large hinge that go to a small head and then build the rest of the trailer in small grids
Your trailer design is running into a couple problems: 1. the hinges (rotor won't really affect) need to be as close to the towing vehicle as you can get them, where they are at is giving the trailer leverage over your vehicle. (Idealy you put the rotation point right above the rear axle but that's hardly practical with that vehicle) 2. Your single wheels idea will work but make sure you have the center of mass visible for just the trailer when you do so as if you don't get it near to and just behind the center of mass it will drive funny and can start pulling around your truck. (Especially as you put weight in the cargo container) 3. Having a big heavy engine in the front is actually pretty important for towing vehicles, recommend you throw some mass blocks on the front to help your steering or just find a way to move your center of mass farther forward. For example my F350 when there's nothing being towed is actually quite front heavy by nearly a 1000 pounds. --Flamytygwa, Lead designer and engineer behind the Kane and Tanya
Just a thought for the trailer, could you put a Mag-Plate underneath and would it then be close enough to lock to the Large Grid Components to add some additional locking (may not be needed but extra locking in place seems like a good idea all the same)
Regarding welding in SE2. What if they give higher tier hand welders a small AOE. That would make welding those small blocks much less tedious. Maybe AOE only works for 25cm blocks?
I'm willing to bet with this episode KJ is wishing for that sweet, sweet unified grid system of SE2... that reminds me, KJ, will you be switching and doing a season in SE2 and a season in SE when SE2 comes out?
Your trailer won't be able to turn because the wheels can only move straight and they can't swivel. So you need some kind of bogey or dolly setup (or even rip off the front set entirely and make it into a semi trailer using a kingpin/fifth wheel).
Kanajashi, I have watched you play for about a year now and I have a question. When you set down that landing gear and put that trailer on it to build, doesn't that equate to a static grid? Just following your rules, I am thinking that you should have been building straight out from your half-track. I have built a trailer for my "small grid" rover by adding two hinges (one left/right, one up/down). It worked exactly how it was intended and it never failed over the terrain on the Earth-like planet I was on. I really enjoy your content, but I'm a little confused. Please help me understand.
Cant you just add small medium and large rotor heads to rotors from the control panel these days? I'm pretty sure that's vanilla and not a mod I'm using. Also, putting the pivot point directly on the back of the 'tractor' (front truck) module will make it much easier to control. I'd put an advanced rotor directly on top of the modular cargo with a conveyer converter and a small hinge coming off the side for the elevation then a small advanced rotor directly on the hinge for twisting with limits of about 20 degrees either direction then run your line to the trailer. This way you're always pulling the trailer rather than pushing its leading edge out away from your direction of travel as you turn and creating friction and resistance.
In defense of the rover, it does seem like a pretty sweet starter vehicle. It does what it was designed to do well, you just kept giving it new work to do 😉
I think that Kana has forgotten the lessons that he learnt from trailering up the Bison from Season 3
24:40 There is a mod that will do exactly as you suggest: Allow players to grind batteries without destroying the power cells, but when batteries are built, they don't have free power. Most haven't been updated to accept the newer content batteries like Warfare, but "Recover Power Cells - Balanced" should work as he's active. His mod starts batteries at 5% charge.
I have played with the mod on a lunar run and it adds a little bit of challenge. You'll need a stable source of power, of course, and finding out your batteries are dry at night on the moon can make things a bit spicy.
Typically what I do with trailers like this, is A: a much heavier tractor vehicle, and B: when I start pulling, I raise the front suspension off the ground with the height offset. That way I don't require jacks to park it, but also if I find myself on a slight incline, I can still level the trailer out with it's wheels.
Also, no rotors in trailer hitches. I've found that they cause more problems than they solve even with rotor limits. Two hinges provide enough twist range that unless you're doing something HIGHLY inadvisable, trailers will mostly keep their wheels on the ground. The other thing I find is that the horizontal hinge for the trailer is best closest to the tractor, and if you need a vertical one, it's best closest to the trailer. Then the tongue that runs between them is functioning as a lever rather than a pair of them with two heavy objects exerting opposing stresses on them. (Because that's how you get clang.)
That is absolutely insane what you did with the timer block and the large rotor attach on small grid rotor sideways. I definitely use that little trick from now on. I'm used to having to do it vertically when I do that lol.
For welding 25cm blocks in SE2 I'm assuming they will just add a small AoE to your hand welder like the vehicle welders have. This will allow you to weld a bunch of tiny blocks or a single large block all at once. No idea if this is what they will actually do, but it's the most logical solution to the problem.
Yeah looking at the paint gun shows they have the system in place to do that
the best hitch connection is Adv. Rotor set flat facing up. elbow conveyor, 2x hinges the second one set 90 degrees off from the first.
both sides connected via sg conveyors. the Assembler and Refinery can be mag plate locked onto the trailer deck with cargo containers for storing the big stuff.
connectors can convert sg to LG for power transfer so Batteries can be placed underneath the trailer deck to pull the balance and CoM down for stability.
tandem wheel "axles" for weight distribution.
a split, 6 Axle set up will require a rotor to allow the front wheelset to rotate separate from the back set. your hitch will thus connect into the lead bogie.
if this is not done, your lead wheelset will scrub and drag sharply limiting your turning ability since the trailer is heavier than the tractor.
I am enjoying the series a lot.
I think the reason your having issues turning is because once you start getting lateral motion on the trailer you're essentially dragging those front trailer tires on the ground which produces too much drag. A better way may be to install a rotor on top of your truck and have a rotor part attached to the trailer that you can attach into the rotor. Then have some pistons below the trailer that you can use to hold it up when not attached to the truck and also to adjust the level of the trailer. And no tires on the front of the trailer. Think of a tractor trailer 18 wheeler setup. Also if the rotor is attached forward of the rear truck tires it will apply some weight to the front tires of your truck making steering easier.
Reduce to 4 wheels a side, center mount them under your trailer. Next, look at how dump trailers work on like a 10 wheeler dump truck. Long tongue, but the pivot point is still at the back of the truck. Theres a reason, slide your hitch closer to your pull vehicle. As for propelling the combination, be gentle, have your pull rig doing around 15% more work then the trailer, or it'll be hard to control pushing your pull rig everywhere. It'll be prone to losing control. Next thing id suggest is reduced wheel strength, you dont want them so strong that they have no flex (ask w4sted, we all know hes a wheel guy and hes not wrong here), leave some room for travel at the top of the suspensions so the suspension can do its job. I also firmly agree with him on Air shocks, turn those off. The heavier you get the worse they are. They over compensate on the regular. Your lead and trailing set of wheels on the trailer, reduce the friction to almost nothing so it doesnt bind up and work against you, they dont need to steer, but they dont need to much more then support the load either. Wouldnt even use them for propulsion.
Good luck, thanks for the video. Interesting trailer for sure. But that hitch is gonna wanna keep binding up with your pivot so far away from your pull rig and that much spread between the wheel sets. SE is bad enough about wheels without you gimping yourself on the process.
You ought to put a large grid ore detector on the trailer for enhanced range and maybe a few solar panels.
Trailers work best following the 2/3 rule for wheel placement. Meaning the wheels should be 2/3 of the way down the length of the trailer from the hing point.
Splitsie did an SE2 stream at Keen HQ where he said he thought they had a good solution for welding up those tiny blocks in survival but they weren't ready to say what it is publicly yet. We'll have to see.
I hope it's right click area weld, left click single block weld
I think you want the trailers rotation axis just above the back wheels not half way back that conveyor shaft. Like put an advanced rotor where the conveyor converter is, and go back from there instead of the hinge. With it in the middle of the converter you are having to fight the trailer to turn.
You should call your lil engineer buddy Wilson. LOL
Just a suggestion, for the hitch, why not put an advanced rotor with a right angled connector to the top of the adaptor mounted on the modular cargo. Then you just need the pitch hinge and roll rotor in the towing boom. Basically a version of the 5th wheel on a semi trailer. As for the tracks on the trailer, putting a short track in the middle of the trailer is your only hope of turning the thing since tracks don't steer.
I suggest that the wheels of the trailer use custom suspension with a rotor and a hinge to allow rotation if you want to keep 4 sets of tires. better, you can use a prog block to get the angle between your trailer and the rover and force the trailer wheels to turn/steer accordingly
I have an idea that will help with steering but I may not describe it very well. Jack up the front of the trailer on a piston and then cut off the front wheels and part if the bed and then build an upside down rotor and rebuild the wheels on a little wheel bogie (like a train) and then they will rotate and the back of the trailer will follow it when you are towing.
Maybe slap a solar panel on top of the trailer for a little power unless its against the rules?
Should have done a Goose neck trailer hitch. With pivoting bogie wheels.
You'll need to lower the friction on the back wheels because when you are turning you are dragging them sideways. Don't make it 0 though because then you'll end up with floppy jackknife syndrome :P
I would suggest putting limits on the hinges and rotor connecting the trailer.
Another way to go about building your trailer would have been instead of starting with the bed in small grids, to start from the large blocks (Build them high with a landing gear or just another block under them) and use a large hinge that go to a small head and then build the rest of the trailer in small grids
Your trailer design is running into a couple problems:
1. the hinges (rotor won't really affect) need to be as close to the towing vehicle as you can get them, where they are at is giving the trailer leverage over your vehicle. (Idealy you put the rotation point right above the rear axle but that's hardly practical with that vehicle)
2. Your single wheels idea will work but make sure you have the center of mass visible for just the trailer when you do so as if you don't get it near to and just behind the center of mass it will drive funny and can start pulling around your truck. (Especially as you put weight in the cargo container)
3. Having a big heavy engine in the front is actually pretty important for towing vehicles, recommend you throw some mass blocks on the front to help your steering or just find a way to move your center of mass farther forward.
For example my F350 when there's nothing being towed is actually quite front heavy by nearly a 1000 pounds.
--Flamytygwa, Lead designer and engineer behind the Kane and Tanya
Maybe you just go straight to a large grid rover! Maybe make it like a Tank!
Perhaps a reduction in friction on the trailers front wheels could make it easier to turn.
Because your refinery and assembler are on a sub-grid all that weight is on the front set of wheels.
The frostbite semi trailer gooseneck hitch will be much better ... I basically use it on every trailer where possible
I have found thar if you turn off the hinges and rotor in the trailer hitch, it will allow the trailer to move more freely.
Think like a fifth wheel trailer hitch system and you’ll have it set
side note, large grid small cargo has the same cap as a small grid large cargo.... not sure how similar the components are between the two though.....
Just a thought for the trailer, could you put a Mag-Plate underneath and would it then be close enough to lock to the Large Grid Components to add some additional locking (may not be needed but extra locking in place seems like a good idea all the same)
Space engeneers 2 today!!!
Who's excited about It? 😎
Regarding welding in SE2. What if they give higher tier hand welders a small AOE. That would make welding those small blocks much less tedious. Maybe AOE only works for 25cm blocks?
:)
I'm willing to bet with this episode KJ is wishing for that sweet, sweet unified grid system of SE2... that reminds me, KJ, will you be switching and doing a season in SE2 and a season in SE when SE2 comes out?
Your trailer won't be able to turn because the wheels can only move straight and they can't swivel. So you need some kind of bogey or dolly setup (or even rip off the front set entirely and make it into a semi trailer using a kingpin/fifth wheel).
i do the same my plushies are hood ornaments and the saboroids are used on my buildings lol
I was thinking, 3x3 rotor facing up, then coming off that, 2 hinges. was thinking out to recreate a lorry in SE. Does that help you at all?
When you can make a big moble base rover ether land or sky of it if you can.
Why not do solar on the trailer? You can have it aim at the sun when not driving and lay flat while on the road.
There is a mod that does the battery thing, power cells for no starting power.
Kanajashi, I have watched you play for about a year now and I have a question. When you set down that landing gear and put that trailer on it to build, doesn't that equate to a static grid? Just following your rules, I am thinking that you should have been building straight out from your half-track. I have built a trailer for my "small grid" rover by adding two hinges (one left/right, one up/down). It worked exactly how it was intended and it never failed over the terrain on the Earth-like planet I was on. I really enjoy your content, but I'm a little confused. Please help me understand.
Cant you just add small medium and large rotor heads to rotors from the control panel these days? I'm pretty sure that's vanilla and not a mod I'm using.
Also, putting the pivot point directly on the back of the 'tractor' (front truck) module will make it much easier to control. I'd put an advanced rotor directly on top of the modular cargo with a conveyer converter and a small hinge coming off the side for the elevation then a small advanced rotor directly on the hinge for twisting with limits of about 20 degrees either direction then run your line to the trailer. This way you're always pulling the trailer rather than pushing its leading edge out away from your direction of travel as you turn and creating friction and resistance.
Add a section front wheel
Why is your connection so far off the ground?
So I found out, Xbox can only have 1 global encounter. No planetary encounters. I was gonna do the same as this but my plans are thwarted
the bonus of using PC, BUT it needs more ram to do same stuff... also taxes GPU more too on PC...
Why dont you use a control add rotor head. Its vanilla now