One thing I would caution people to remember is depending on the wood species being used, be careful taking full depth passes when routering the outside body profile. Some woods will blow out under too heavy a cut, so sneak up on the final pass. This has the fortunate effect as well of reducing or eliminating burn marks from the cutter.
@@josesalazar4915 Não necessariamente. Sou luthier aqui no Brasil e uso madeiras leves como a caixeta, freijó e o kiri/pawlonia (a mais leve de todas), e algumas vezes com 42mm de espessura.
For the control cavity, could you route the back side if you wanted no control plate and just knobs and the switch on the front. If so, would anything else about the route outs have to change?
No, not really. Same template, opposite side, leave a 1/4" of material at the bottom of the control cavity. Additionally, if you wanted to build the guitar to also not have the small, visible wire channel behind the neck pickup you could easily blind drill it with a long 1/4" bit, but keep in mind that on a classic Tele style guitar, the route for the neck pickup is pretty small, and the lead comes off the pickup from the center. See how that small channel is at 45° to the centerline of the guitar? Blind drilling that, you would not be able to replicate that angle of passage, nor have it originate from the center point of the pickup cavity. You'd have to drill at a more oblique angle, starting through the neck pocket and make sure the cavity had extra depth to accommodate some back looping of the lead. Hope that makes sense. Lastly, you could also simply make the body blank 1/4" shallower, route it exactly as it was done here, and then apply a nice one or two piece top, and then only route the top material away from the two pickup cavities. Use a bottom bearing guided bit and just follow those inner profiles. Look at how a Les Paul is built. Same procedure.
Is there a way to drill the holes for the pickup cables with out having to make that slit in the top? I haven’t found any tutorials that explain how to do it
Constructive criticism comment - I like the video's, but - for me - it's hard to watch without a voice over. I understand it's extra work (I probably don't understand how much extra work), but - for me - they make video's much more likable. I rarely watch more than a minute of a no-talk video
Might not be for you then. I personally hate Nick’s voice with a firey hot passion and think he’s doing us all a massive favor by keeping it out of there. Jk, Nick, big fan of this one.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
One thing I would caution people to remember is depending on the wood species being used, be careful taking full depth passes when routering the outside body profile.
Some woods will blow out under too heavy a cut, so sneak up on the final pass.
This has the fortunate effect as well of reducing or eliminating burn marks from the cutter.
Pero siempre debe ser gruesa la madera y así de pesada
@@josesalazar4915 Não necessariamente. Sou luthier aqui no Brasil e uso madeiras leves como a caixeta, freijó e o kiri/pawlonia (a mais leve de todas), e algumas vezes com 42mm de espessura.
Leo was a genius!
Absolute genius!
Wish I had these tools.... im going all hand tools and it takes forever lol. This was great :). Thanks
Good job, and you're well-equipped for it. Are there follow-up videos to progress the guitar?
Great overview of the process. Why does the neck pocket look deeper than the .625 you have marked?
you sure make it look easy! like you just knocked it out one morning in time for brunch
If you’ve made a body before, it’s pretty easy the second time round…brunch is my favorite.
For the control cavity, could you route the back side if you wanted no control plate and just knobs and the switch on the front. If so, would anything else about the route outs have to change?
No, not really. Same template, opposite side, leave a 1/4" of material at the bottom of the control cavity.
Additionally, if you wanted to build the guitar to also not have the small, visible wire channel behind the neck pickup you could easily blind drill it with a long 1/4" bit, but keep in mind that on a classic Tele style guitar, the route for the neck pickup is pretty small, and the lead comes off the pickup from the center. See how that small channel is at 45° to the centerline of the guitar? Blind drilling that, you would not be able to replicate that angle of passage, nor have it originate from the center point of the pickup cavity. You'd have to drill at a more oblique angle, starting through the neck pocket and make sure the cavity had extra depth to accommodate some back looping of the lead. Hope that makes sense.
Lastly, you could also simply make the body blank 1/4" shallower, route it exactly as it was done here, and then apply a nice one or two piece top, and then only route the top material away from the two pickup cavities. Use a bottom bearing guided bit and just follow those inner profiles. Look at how a Les Paul is built. Same procedure.
What is that bit that he hogged out the neck pocket with??
How do you drill the holes between the different pickup cavities? Trying to imagine how to get my drill level in there
You need a really long drill bit and be ver away of your angle. You’ll be fine
Can I use a jig saw instead of a band saw?
duh 🤦♂
@@mattreeves437 shut up MATT
What is the machine at 4:06 called? Awesome video btw
That's a router table.
how deep is the neck area routed?
Love it! Great job!!!
Thank you!
Enjoyed that, thank you
You’re very welcome.
Is there a way to drill the holes for the pickup cables with out having to make that slit in the top? I haven’t found any tutorials that explain how to do it
For sure, just take a long drill bit to drill from the neck pocket through the neck pickup to the bridge cavity.
@@KeyWoodworks thank you very much!
Love it.
Thanks man!
Great video! Could share the model numbers and/or the sizes of the two router bits you used with the body template?
Thanks! Every bit was from BitsBits.com and they were both 1/4” shank pattern bits and flush trim bits and 1/2” pattern and flush trims.
and don't forget to use coupon code MORSELS15 to save 15%
@@KeyWoodworks Thanks!
I would like to purchase your templates how would I do that?
I don’t sell templates. There’s tons available on Etsy tho
Thanks for the silence, the video helped me a lot
thanks so much for making this. is the template made of MDF? I'm curious if humidity is a problem.
Yeah I make my templates out of 1/4” mdf and haven’t had any issues with humidity
Why don’t you use the CNC to do this?
Because the title says with templates
Man. Welcome to my I hate bandsaws club. 🤣🤣
It would be helpful to explain as you go
Dude.
Dude!
Constructive criticism comment - I like the video's, but - for me - it's hard to watch without a voice over. I understand it's extra work (I probably don't understand how much extra work), but - for me - they make video's much more likable. I rarely watch more than a minute of a no-talk video
Might not be for you then. I personally hate Nick’s voice with a firey hot passion and think he’s doing us all a massive favor by keeping it out of there.
Jk, Nick, big fan of this one.
🤣🤣 thanks