How to remove plasterboard fixings and repair the hole in the plasterboard
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2016
- Some of the plasterboard fixings today can leave a large diameter hole in the plasterboard or drywall once they are removed. In this demonstration a Geefix fixing is removed and also a GripIt fixing, both of these fixings will leave a 25mm or 1” diameter hole in the plasterboard or drywall which will need repairing. The filler used in this video is Gyproc easifill, which can be seen in more detail here- • Gyproc Easi-fill | Gyp...
If you want to know which plasterboard fixings can hold the most weight, I have done several tests over the years, all of which have been collated into a single forum post here- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/for... 
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Your videos have helped me so much over recent weeks and this one is about to help me out! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience 👍
Brilliant info, thank you. I've removed a fitted wardrobe and now have 16 of these holes to fill in! Looks to be a much better method than stuffing newspaper in like I was planning 😂
Good luck with it ;-)
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Nothing but a perfect solution for this issue... Nice job on this one...
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Another great video, thanks again for all the effort that goes into this channel.
You are welcome.Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thank you for showing this simple to follow method.
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Brilliant, clear and concise, I see why “GripIt” have removed the screw heads from the tiny screws so it seems impossible to remove without damaging and replace.
great video
I didn't know they had removed the screw heads 😱
Excellent DIY FIX - Thank you for posting another excellent video .
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Another good video with useful tips! Thanks!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Perfect job as always. Good choice of grab adhesive nemesis too I have switched to it from my other brand of grip and grab and performs just as well for a little bit cheaper.
Thanks, the Nemsis is brilliant stuff. The kids broke the bottom bottle holder on the fridge door, finding a replacement was impossible. I had tried to glue it with epoxy and superglue but it broke again. I then opened the door and used some cardboard as the door and taped that in position with duct tape. Once the door had reached room temperature I used Nemesis and then put the bottle holder in position. After a few hours I removed the cardboard and used the door as normal, it has been fine ever since ;-)
Just what I have been looking for great video
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good solid work, i used a similar process when i had to fill around the floorboards after new radiators and plumbing were fitted.
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so satisfying to watch
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Thumbs up - thanks for yor thorough Videos !!! Best in class...
You are welcome.
Thanks for the thumbs up and comment ;-)
I have done the same with thin piece of wood, very satisfying when its done knowing there used to be a hole there.Thanks, Barry (West Kirby, Wirral)
Thanks for the comment Barry ;-)
Nice one, thanks for a solution using common materials a homeowner would have around
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the info and video Chez.
You are welcome John, Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great videos for learning. Thanks very much.
You are welcome.
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Good tip about the "backer" behind the wall, and how to properly install it - I have never seen this done this way before - thank you.
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Have used a similar method myself and can confirm it works well!
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Thank you - Just what I looking for - seems that the previous owners of a house I visited did a bulk-buy of Gripit fixings - so many holes!
I'm glad the video helped
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Easy when you know or are shown how. Thumbs up!
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Great tip, thanks for sharing!
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Another very useful video where I've I've learned a new trick or two. - Thanks!
You are welcome Jo, thanks for the comment ;-)
For large holes, I echo the advice above ie hole saw. To spread the filler a tapering knife makes very easy work of the filling being wide and flexible.
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Thanks for another really useful video 👍👍
You are welcome.
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+Ultimate Handyman Love the channel. Picked up loads of top tips. Keep up the good work mate.
Love these videos!
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Wonderful thank you I learnt a lot
You are welcome.
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very good solution thank you very much
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you can add salt to the filler which makes it set quicker. i have also read that you can add salt to plaster to make it go off quicker. can you do a video about it and test how much salt to add. love your videos, very informative and very helpful. keep them coming.
Good vid I used Hardboard easy to cut and good result
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Thanks for the video, some of the other vids from the US use a metal mesh sticker, do we have those in the UK do you know, it seems so much easier? They literally stick over the hole and then use the filler over until smooth.
I'm not familiar with the mesh stickers, sorry.
Thanks for the comment
I have used this method to fill holes when removing down lights. You can use thin plywood as the grab adhesive seem to stick to this very well, also if you are filling a large hole thin plasterboard will work as well and you can drill small holes around the larger hole and countersink them and secure the plasterboard with stainless steel screws this gives more support for the filler.
Thanks for the comment Stuart ;-)
Great advice. What about when I need to screw into that same hole area to hang a fairly heavy shelf? (Shelf can't go elsewhere)
Did you figure it out? Wondering the same thing.
Thanks!
Thank you for the generous donation 👍
Good job
Thanks Alan ;-)
nice vid. would u use a similar method to fill holes left by smaller fixings, like the self drill fixings?
You can often fill smaller holes such as those from self drill fixings by just pushing the filler into the hole, as long as the filler is not too thin.
I normally only use the piece of material behind on the larger diameter holes.
Thanks form the comment ;-)
I use the adhesive expanding foam for jobs like this instead of grip fill. It's set solid in 5 mins or so and works like a charm. Bits of cloaking profile is what I use too. If it's a bigger hole like from a downlight I'd put a couple of screws on each end of the cloaking profile using two peices either side of the hole, bit of scrim tape across the gap, foam it, then fill 5 mins later.
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nice job mate :)
Thanks ;-)
Hi mate, I have just finished dot and dabbing my kitchen extension, I now need the box in the steel I beam. Can you recommend any fixings to attach the plaster board?
I think normally people cut pieces of timber such as 3*2, and taper the ends slightly. Then knock them in between the top and bottom of the H section. These are known as noggins, you have to cut them so they are a really tight fit, once knocked in you can fix to them using normal plasterboard screws. I'd knock the noggins in about every 400mm.
Clever that! Saves cutting out a square and using timber battens and a patch of new board! And stronger than using expanding foam which would be very wasteful and just fall down the back!
Thanks for the comment
Swear your the lad who comments on the painter and decorator channel I watch and not long ago you were telling him the expanding foam was the best method and you like his way of doing this 😂 😂 😂 😂 make up your mind pal
Is this the same process for holes the same size as the one on the right of the two 25mm holes you're working on. Thank you.
For small holes, you can often just fill them using the filler- providing the filler does not drop through the hole.
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i have a 16mm wide hole that is 30mm deep with only 20mm clearance behind. will this be the best method or will something else be better.
You might just be able to mix up a stiff mix of filler and use that to fill the hole.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm needing to fix some 25mm timber battens to my bathroom wall to conceal pipes for the shower and then attach plasterboard on top.
Any advice on which screws I would need to screw the battens to the wall and also roughly how deep they would need to enter the wall to get a strong fix?
If the wall is plastered I would use 60mm -70mm long screws, You can use shorter screws if the wall is not plastered.
Ideally you need to get at least 25mm into the wall for a good fixing.
Ultimate Handyman Cheers mate, you must of answered a load of questions from me. Its all should be done by this week so no more pestering you for advice lol
Hi, I wonder if you can go help me?. I've fitted some rawl plug anchors (self screw metal plugs) and in both fittings I've fitted the plaster has crumbled . So I'm assuming I will need to pollyfilla the repair. My question is. Do I pollyfill and skim over with the anchor still left in the wall? Or take it out? If I take it and then Reinsert after I've pollfillered will I run the risk of it the plaster crumbling when the rawl plug self drive goes in again?
The metal self screw type fixings are notoriously rubbish.
ruclips.net/video/mIEY3E4fiDk/видео.html
Your best bet might be to switch to another type of fixing, perhaps the snaptoggles or Gee-fix fixings, or even the Grip-it fixings, as these require a larger hole.
Trying to use a fixing in a repaired area is not a good idea, as it will be weak.
unless you must fill 100+ holes
then you'll better use expanding foam. it's saving time, it's cheaper and more practical.
when it's dry hard, cut it, use a coat of filler, sand it and paint it ( preferably the same batch collur)
and take 3 times longer cleaning the expanding foam nozzle
I find that no matter how careful I am applying the filler, sanding and applying paint, at certain angles you can still see the borders of holes. Does it come down to using a particular type of filler? I mix mine up with water from powder then apply so I can control the consistency. Still the same issue though. Any idea what I could do?
It is probably the primer. Normally when I have filled a hole and sanded it flush, you will find that the filler is absorbent and will soak up paint really quickly. I normally prime the area with Zinsser 123 and ensure that the edges are feathered out, before applying a top coat over the top of the primer.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hello, my blue grip it fixings doesn't have the 2 slotted screws, it has 2 knobs instead. So I can't turn it all the way to the left. Any suggestions on how to remove those? Thanks
Not sure about that, but if you put something like a large washer over it, then out the screw back in and tighten it really tight, I would imagine it would pull the fixing through the plasterboard.
my friend had her two rooms knocked into one and the builder drylined her walls. i need to hang a mirror on those walls and iti is 17 pounds in weight and i plan to mirror plate it to the wall. what size of snap toggle would you think i need for this
The M6 size or nearest equivalent should be fine ;-)
*****
great. many thanks
Would you be able to re drill the hole once its been sanded?
I work in a care home and the curtain tie backs are forever being pulled out. Thanks in advance.
You could do but it would be difficult to use some fixings after the wall has been repaired.
Are the walls not solid behind the plasterboard?
Nope, its a fairly new build, 4 years old. So just plaster board and the odd stud now and then!
I'd try cutting out a slightly larger hole and feed a piece of 2*1 timber through the hole, then once you have it stuck in position and the filler has hardened you can drill through the filler and screw directly into the 2*1
Is the gyproc easifill strong enough to drill and take a wall plug? I need to refill a hole a prepare it for a curtain rail bracket. I have solid walls btw so no cavity.
Use cocktail umbrellas - works a treat, just snip the stem off when the grab goes off
Thanks for the comment
whats a good filer for large wholes. i struggle getting good finish at times
For small holes I use Gyrpoc easifill but that is not brilliant on large or deep holes, so I often use Toupret for the larger holes.Thanks for the comment ;-)
For bigger holes I'd use a 50/100/150mm holesaw to cut the hole bigger and cut a blanking disc from a scrap piece of plaster board using the same size holesaw. It's then a case of using the same method as above.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Nice, I have to admit I have been using the "jam loads of bog roll in and fill method" admittedly with less professional results :)
If it works it works ;-)Thanks for the comment
I had a TV bracket on my wall when I moved into my house and it is now removed however the person who put it up drilled a lot of holes once the holes have been filled can I install a new bracket in the general area of the repair or will the strength of the plasterboard be compromised? wholes between 10 and 15mm
For a TV bracket you really need to find at least one stud- ruclips.net/video/glzwY76O0d8/видео.html
And yes, the plasterboard will be weakened if a lot of fixings have been removed previously.
How do I remove the grip it fixing that don’t have any screw heads on the small screws ? 😖🤦🏻
Copied from their website-
To remove your Gripit from the wall, remove the screw/bolt and any attached hooks, brackets etc. Turn the centre of the Gripit a quarter rotation anti-clockwise with a screwdriver to close the wings. Then use your fingers, a flathead screwdriver or similar to gently pry the edge of the Gripit collar out
How do you get the metal out afterwards?
You don't, you leave it in the partition.
sorry - bad attempt at humour :P
You never know with some of the comments I get LOL
You should have put a smiley on the end then I would have known you were joking ;-)
hah yeah 1st rule of the internet - they can't hear your sarcasm! ;)
thanks for the vids bud, good tips as ever (no joke!)
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comments
Which type of filler did you use?
I use Gyproc Easi-fill
ruclips.net/video/iM_FD403--k/видео.html
What kind of filler do you use? thanks!
I use Gyproc easi-fill for most interior jobs- ruclips.net/video/iM_FD403--k/видео.html
+Ultimate Handyman Brilliant! Thank you
Cheers
You are welcome.Thanks for the comment
Clever 👍🏻
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I use just plasterboard to cover holes. Simple cut plasterboard to the shape of the hole but leave top paper layer 10 mm bigger than the hole. Insert it into the hole with some adhesive leave to cure and then the same thing like on the video
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You will have a proud repair with this method. Not a problem unless the sunlight catches it at the right angle then it stands out a pretty mile!
Please take video of taking glue stick, heating end with lighter, and temporarily securing this fixing very quickly and easily for proper fixing. thanks
That's a good idea if you are in a rush, although you'd have to be careful with the hot glue unless you had a decent pair of gloves on.Thanks for the comment ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman Well not really. just take one glue stick and melt the glue on the other end before it drips. The just use this stick as art painters brush. Very easy and quick!!
Ok, I'll give a try the next time I have to do this.Thanks for the comments ;-)
Thanks, I have a hole on the ceiling that needs this exact fix!
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is that 'Gyproc easi fill' filler?
Yes, I used Gyproc easifill 20 as I have a large tub of it in the garage, which was left over from a large bag.
They do now make it ready mixed in small tubes and is sold as easi filler but it works out more expensive and I'm not sure how long it lasts once the tub has been opened.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman thanks buddy! keep up good work and videos
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
How are you supposed to do this when there's insulated plasterboard behind the gyproc
I would just fill the void, using some expanding foam if you have it, then cut that back after it has cured and then fill and sand. This is assuming that there is a solid wall behind the insulated plasterboard
@@ultimatehandyman going forward I'm leaving the grip it fixings behind as the wings snapped off. Would you consider jumping to the fixings youv reviewed using the special tool to activate the fixing behind the board ?
@@hoohaa559 Normally I just use Snap toggles/ zip fix fixings- ruclips.net/video/tAIUublenMw/видео.html&t
They normally work well for me. Unless of course there is a solid wall behind, in which case I normally use Corefix - ruclips.net/video/7xLhIPoO5gQ/видео.html&t
@@ultimatehandyman IV seen your reviews on them fixings, really good ! Would you advise going straight through the insulation and try reach the solid wall first before fixing to the plasterboard ? There's tiny foam balls in my walls as insulation. Haven't dared go deeper just yet
@@hoohaa559 I'm confused- you have tiny balls of insulation between the plasterboard and the wall? 🤔
I just filled the holes with bits of sponge then filled over it,, hopefully it lasts😂
😂
Great job I need to fill my glory hole
Let's hope the glory hole is not in the butchers shop ;-)
I no have 14 holes to fill lol gunna take a while
Best of luck with it ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great job but could we get some different videos other than plasterboard fixings?😂😴
LOL, I think I have covered most plasterboard fixings now apart from the bladefixer (coming in the next few weeks)
why are you in my recommended I've never watched anything like this what
I'm afraid I have no control over what videos are recommended to who!
They've changed the design. Mine are now stuck. Last time I buy them. Pure dog shit. Plastic threads for a start and plastic flathead to twist to remove them. Say no more.
I've not seen the new design ones!
Thanks for the comment
This is a fraud. Gripits don't have convenient screw heads, and not only that, the gripit initially shown - at 0:25 - doesn't have screw heads either!
Perhaps they have changed the design of the Grip-It since I made the video 😉
@@ultimatehandyman Then they must have done it VERY recently because (a) I bought some a couple of weeks ago that had no screw heads and (b) your own have no screw heads either in the first part of the video.
At what time in the video do my Grip-It fixings not have a screw head?
@@ultimatehandyman You're quite right; on closer inspection they DO appear to have screw heads, for which inaccuracy I apologise. I must however stick with my original - though amended - point that most gripits do NOT have screw heads. Further research indicates that only the blue, 25mm, size has these heads. Your technique therefore is useful only for that size.
It looks like they all had the screws in them, when I made the videos-
ruclips.net/video/szx7nMRZSIY/видео.html&t
They seem to have changed the design, if you search for images of the Grip-It there’s a mixture of them with screws and the newer ones have what looks like a rivet! binged.it/3ivja35