Thsbk you from across the pond 🇮🇪 Housebis all dry walls/Plasterboard. Your video is a life saver 🪛🔩 (literally because i dont want a bathroom mirror cabinet falling down)
i use the spiral ones to hang my tv up i have had 2 tvs on that same bracked one was a 32inch tv now i have a 43inch tv on the bracket tv is superlight but it feels strong been up for nearlly 7 year been no problems with it but now i want to move tv onto a diffrent wall im thinking about using the same ones as last time as they worked well
Helped shed some light on whether to use the Fischer self screw drywall plugs - in my case…avoid! I’m hanging a bathroom cabinet (10kg weight unloaded) but will need to bear probably around 20kg. Can you recommend a drywall screw type for me please?
If Its going to cary some weight I would use the butterfly type. Some cabinets have a piece of timber running across on the lower half that sits flush with the wall. I usually add some adhesive to that to give it some extra hold.
@@beyondtheworkbench I’m thinking of using Timco Multi-fix Stella fixings however not sure how much space behind the plaster wall there is, will see tomorrow. Yes, great tip on the glue - thanks! 👍
Good video and demonstration, thank you. Great advice for beginners not sure where to start. I would like to flag, however, that there are much better, more effective plasterboard fixings than the ones you have demonstrated here. These two are certainly not ‘the best’ as you say. These hollow wall anchors can destroy the back of plasterboard if you’re not careful, for example, leaving a weakened wall. I’d really advise any viewers to do a bit of research and find the best option for you.
Thanks for your comment, I aimed it at beginners and by best I mean easiest to grasp and purchase and give the strongest hold considering the above. I am sure with different qualifications of 'best' there would be better fits.
Hi there, great video! My curtain pole just fell out 😢 it was fixed with the same screws like the first one. Is there any way to know if the second option would work? I mean the thickness of the wall behind… Clearly the first one doesn’t work?
Ah yea I would probably go for the second one for anything thats going to have force applied to it such as pulling the curtains. The butterfly fixings will work unless you have a really heavy set of curtains. What I would do in the perfect situation is fix a piece of wood to the wall using some adhesive as well as the butterfly fixings unless you can locate a stud and fix the wood with screws there (best solution) then fix the curtain pole to that as the wood will spread the load from the curain pole mount.
Excellent advice, thank you. I am struggling to find a hollow wall anchor which is suitable for 12.5mm thick plasterboard with a 12mm hollow behind. M4 width. Grateful for advice on where to source, or what dimensions I should look for. Many thanks.
I would probably use the metal spiral fixing at the beginning of the video as you only have 12mm to work with behind the plasterboard as that fixing doesn't need any space behind other than the length of the screw you use. I dont quite understand the m4 bit? If you need it to receive an M4 bolt you might be better off fixing a piece of timber to the wall on front of the plasterboard to give you enough depth to use the butterfly fixing as they will come in m4 www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-hollow-wall-anchors-m4-x-38mm-20-pack/54782 www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-32mm-100-pack/2422h The grip it fixings look good for your situation, I haven't used them before and they dont seem to go down to m4 but these are M6 if they work www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-plasterboard-fixing-20mm-x-14mm-8-pack/409GK?kpid=409GK&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Screws%2C%20Nails%20and%20Fixings?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiApOyqBhDlARIsAGfnyMpUEBEx8qPNttTeTH-I5u_trAZ5V9U8pKX0dnDk-SbEXQWF8EdC8OoaAtGsEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#product_additional_details_container
@@beyondtheworkbench Extremely helpful, thank you. I am restricted to an M4 bolt because that goes through a hole exactly that size in a plastic moulded cup which holds a vacuum device. I think the spiral fixing is the answer, but the wood backing idea is a possibility.
I find when I use the spiral type on finished plasterboard that has a skim over it, they usually pop off a disk of the skim. Usually hidden by the thing you hang there but I wish I could stop it happening.
I find that the pilot hole drilled before minimises that chance. Maybe a dab of water on the plasterboard where you are about to fix it with a sponge might also prevent it cracking and falling off
You can just unscrew them but what I do is screw them in a little bit more so they are not poking out and filler over them (that is if you are trying to repair the wall)
Hi! yes more than enough I usually only use one spiral fixing for a picture unless it was very large (bigger than 1mx1m) or has a hardwood frame or something.
@@beyondtheworkbench the biggest is 80cm x 80cm wooden frame i’m due to move in the house this weekend, so I’m not sure whether the walls will be plasterboard or brick as it’s a new build Thank you for the quick reply
Fantastic! I am in Sweden and need to fix a 65 inch tv to the wall. This is an old house from the sixties and apparently the boards used at the time on the walls are called Treetex, which is wood based but very similar to plasterboard. Would you recommend go with the expanders? the tv is about 30 kilos. Thanks!
Yea definitely the expanding ones for a TV it gives more insurance as you don't want it to fall off. I used as many as I could (|as many holes as your TV frame has) and it was ok. I am not sure on the material on the wall but the spreader fixings should work with most wall types
I would use the butterfly clip(anchor fixing) if it was anything you were worried about. Generally though the twist fixing is fine. You could always add a dab of silicone to the corners to relieve some of the pressure of the fixing if you wanted
If it is made from plasterboard it will work yes. Be careful though I have seen eaves made of asbestos and appear to be plasterboard. Plasterboard shouldn't be used for facias or soffits so it might be another material. In principle though they should work although the spacing between the holes on the camera might be too close to use a fixing for every hole
Great video mate! I have a question though. I am trying to install 2 shelves that are connected with 2 planks of wood (perpendicular to the shelves, so there are 4 screws, each at the end of the perpendicular plank). The thickness of this plank that binds the two shelves has a thickness of 2.5 cm (meaning between the wall where I instal the fixer and the head of the screw there will be 2.5 cm). Is that ok? If you would answer I would be forever grateful and you would immediately become my forever personal hero 🦸 Thanks in advance
You rarely get a nice clean void behind plasterboard. What I never see covered: what if there’s tightly packed kingspan directly behind the board? What if where you’re screwing has the stud there? What type of fixing then? What about if it’s dot and dab and you’re on a spot with the adhesive behind the board? Also what weight can the general purpose fixings hold up to? I can’t find anything telling you this
If it is kingspan then the screw type is fine as it only grabs in the plasterboard anyway or you need the butterfly clip that will pass over the kingspan. If its a stud you are in luck use a normal screw and it will be way stronger. If its dot and dab then the screw fixing is likely the best. the KG per fixing is usually quoted on the fixing packet depending on which one you chose and the fixing length.
Thank you for replying. I’ve bought the screw type ones. They say 7kg each, so two on an 8.5kg mirror will hopefully be ok. I’ll soon find out anyway 😂
My drill goes all way tho like to hollowness as if the board is super thin it’s a uk new build very cheap housing association I tried to put curtain holders they had small plugs I tapped of the drill bit before I even got to the tape the still bit had like gone all way through so the plugs only hold a small amount of the screw like just the end cause plug too far in 😭I could cry it’s so hard to even put a mirror up I try so hard to do it and it always fails don’t have a guy around to help so I do try myself but fail every time ❤
You will most likely have 12.5mm plasterboard and most are designed to work with the normal thicknesses. The screw type will work with any thickness but will be better on the thicker ones. 12.5mm is the standard though and I would be surprised if it was any different.
yes, the screw type just work the same. The butterfly firings will have to be long enough to pass through to the other end of the insulation as well as the plasterboard (assuming there is a cavity behind and its not solidly mounted to a brick wall)
What about the cement/brick wall, my shelves keeps falling off no matter what I use, I keep buying new plugs but this wall is not holding the shelves. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong an di have no idea what or is my kitchen wall that's crap. Drilling and filling holes is no joke! I m so frustrated. Btw Thank you very much for this tutorial.
I would use a masonry screw for those but you have to get the correct sized drill bit www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-tx-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5mm-x-60mm-100-pack/3313h but if you already have holes and they are a bit mangled these will be what you want but make sure you get ones that will either fit in the holes you have drilled or bigger and then drill the larger hole for them. www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-rawlbolts-m10-x-75mm-5-pack/20828
I’ve put in a self drilling type, but the screw stick out out too much. Are there shorter screws available for these? It says to only use the screws it came with. Removing it has ruined the wall a bit. Is there a way to fix that hole? I’m trying to put up a floating shelf. Thanks.
I find floating shelves aren't much good and usually damage the wall unless you manage to find a stud to screw to. I would recommend the butterfly type as they hold more weight and if the screw type has ruined the plasterboard you may be able to fit one of the butterflies into that same hole. Once the plasterboard has broken there aren't any easy ways to make it hold a screw again, I would fill it and relocate if you didn't want to use the other type of fixing.
Just tried using 6 of these fixings for coat hooks, got the self drive screw in perfectly then the screw went in and ripped it out. Should I use a load of washers so it doesn’t go too far in? I hate plaster board 🥴
I found that if they are doing that it usually means the screw is hitting something inside the wall pushing the plug out you could either find another shorter screw that doesn't hit the other side of the wall thus pushing the fixing out or you could cut the end off the screws you have ( I have done this many times) or if it is hitting a brick wall you could just use some masonry screws or wood screws with plugs? I am not sure what the end of the screws is hitting on the other side?
Yea my plumbers used the smaller screw type to mount the rads. I always add a bit of adhesive to the back of the bracket where it contacts the plasterboard as well so there is a backup
You can purchase longer screw kits I think. however the way I would do it would be to drill a hole in the 3x2 to about 1/2 depth larger than the screw head then screw the screw into the wood so that it is sitting 1/2 way inside and it should reach. This would also give a better fixing because the location of the screw head is closer to the wall so there isn't as much leverage acting on the screw
Excellent video - just what I was looking for. One question - what is the “special tool” called that you need for the second fixing? Thank you - and keep up the good work!
Thanks, This is the link to the special tool however if you are careful you can tighten the screw and the legs at the back will flair out from the tightening. It wont be quite as good a fix but might be better than buying something if you are only doing a few fixings www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-heavy-duty-setting-tool/8499G?kpid=8499G&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Screws%2C%20Nails%20and%20Fixings?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=CjwKCAjw_aemBhBLEiwAT98FMucMioqGG-ROZ5qgHc2fQkc_fRgQm38rJPaCSmMMMIxR8oYOyM8tgxoCYfUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@beyondtheworkbench thank you, exactly the answer I needed, special tool worth getting if you need to do a lot of repetitive work with that type of fixing. As other say, there are other fixings on the market so investing in a tool for a couple of jobs not worth it, but Screwfix sold that type of fixing to me, so that's what I'll be using (this time)!
Yes it is really good for that. The fixing stays in the wall and acts as the nut and you can remove the bolt without affecting the wall/spreader clip you fixed in.
If it is to repair the wall and hide that there was a fixing there I would just knock it in and filler over it. You could try pulling it out but there will likely be a lot more damage than if you pushed it into the wall.@@jbarszczewski
Plan your video. Take some pictures or shorts of all things that need zooming in or shown in detail. Then editing is easy.Also use remote for zooming in.
I agree, due to the distance of filming he could have used the proper names. But watching the whole video through, it became clear he was demonstrating how to do the screwing in ones first and the spreader ones second.
Get the biggest impact driver you can and put your plug in, you see why the rest of the room he's working in is empty, he not managed to put any plaster board up yet
I couldn’t find any help online half a year ago, so thanks, got some work to do!
You are welcome I hope your project goes well
Thank you so much. Took me exactly 3 mins from start to finish to complete my project.
Nice work!
Thsbk you from across the pond 🇮🇪
Housebis all dry walls/Plasterboard.
Your video is a life saver 🪛🔩 (literally because i dont want a bathroom mirror cabinet falling down)
You are welcome. 😁
Clear and very helpful 😊
Thanks so much, my first home without solid brick behind the plasterboard, so it's all new to me.
You are welcome. Took me a lot of mistakes to get the hang of what not to do.
Thank you so much. So helpful
Perfectly explained. Thank you 😊
Thanks Im glad it was of use
That’s where I was going wrong. Nice one! 😊
Thanks for the comment. Hope you get on with it ok!
i use the spiral ones to hang my tv up i have had 2 tvs on that same bracked one was a 32inch tv now i have a 43inch tv on the bracket tv is superlight but it feels strong been up for nearlly 7 year been no problems with it but now i want to move tv onto a diffrent wall im thinking about using the same ones as last time as they worked well
Nice that sounds fine. If you have a well set fixing it should be good to go
Cheers mate I can fix a light to the plaster board behind my mum's bed so she can read her book at night now lol 👍
No worries
Great Video, I got my job done perfectly. Thanks 🙂👍
Thanks
Helped shed some light on whether to use the Fischer self screw drywall plugs - in my case…avoid! I’m hanging a bathroom cabinet (10kg weight unloaded) but will need to bear probably around 20kg. Can you recommend a drywall screw type for me please?
If Its going to cary some weight I would use the butterfly type. Some cabinets have a piece of timber running across on the lower half that sits flush with the wall. I usually add some adhesive to that to give it some extra hold.
@@beyondtheworkbench I’m thinking of using Timco Multi-fix Stella fixings however not sure how much space behind the plaster wall there is, will see tomorrow. Yes, great tip on the glue - thanks! 👍
Nice and accurate demo.
Many thanks
Awesome stuff, cheers pal
No worries
Very helpful! Thank you 🙏
you are welcome
Good video and demonstration, thank you. Great advice for beginners not sure where to start. I would like to flag, however, that there are much better, more effective plasterboard fixings than the ones you have demonstrated here. These two are certainly not ‘the best’ as you say. These hollow wall anchors can destroy the back of plasterboard if you’re not careful, for example, leaving a weakened wall. I’d really advise any viewers to do a bit of research and find the best option for you.
Thanks for your comment, I aimed it at beginners and by best I mean easiest to grasp and purchase and give the strongest hold considering the above. I am sure with different qualifications of 'best' there would be better fits.
Hi there, great video!
My curtain pole just fell out 😢 it was fixed with the same screws like the first one. Is there any way to know if the second option would work? I mean the thickness of the wall behind… Clearly the first one doesn’t work?
Ah yea I would probably go for the second one for anything thats going to have force applied to it such as pulling the curtains. The butterfly fixings will work unless you have a really heavy set of curtains. What I would do in the perfect situation is fix a piece of wood to the wall using some adhesive as well as the butterfly fixings unless you can locate a stud and fix the wood with screws there (best solution) then fix the curtain pole to that as the wood will spread the load from the curain pole mount.
As long as there is a cavity behind the plasterboard of more than about 20-30mm you will be good with the butterfly fixings
Excellent advice, thank you. I am struggling to find a hollow wall anchor which is suitable for 12.5mm thick plasterboard with a 12mm hollow behind. M4 width. Grateful for advice on where to source, or what dimensions I should look for. Many thanks.
I would probably use the metal spiral fixing at the beginning of the video as you only have 12mm to work with behind the plasterboard as that fixing doesn't need any space behind other than the length of the screw you use. I dont quite understand the m4 bit? If you need it to receive an M4 bolt you might be better off fixing a piece of timber to the wall on front of the plasterboard to give you enough depth to use the butterfly fixing as they will come in m4
www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-hollow-wall-anchors-m4-x-38mm-20-pack/54782
www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-32mm-100-pack/2422h
The grip it fixings look good for your situation, I haven't used them before and they dont seem to go down to m4 but these are M6 if they work
www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-plasterboard-fixing-20mm-x-14mm-8-pack/409GK?kpid=409GK&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Screws%2C%20Nails%20and%20Fixings?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiApOyqBhDlARIsAGfnyMpUEBEx8qPNttTeTH-I5u_trAZ5V9U8pKX0dnDk-SbEXQWF8EdC8OoaAtGsEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#product_additional_details_container
@@beyondtheworkbench Extremely helpful, thank you. I am restricted to an M4 bolt because that goes through a hole exactly that size in a plastic moulded cup which holds a vacuum device. I think the spiral fixing is the answer, but the wood backing idea is a possibility.
good luck@@johnniegraham5217
I find when I use the spiral type on finished plasterboard that has a skim over it, they usually pop off a disk of the skim. Usually hidden by the thing you hang there but I wish I could stop it happening.
I find that the pilot hole drilled before minimises that chance. Maybe a dab of water on the plasterboard where you are about to fix it with a sponge might also prevent it cracking and falling off
Super video thank you. But how do I get those screw in ones out again? I've searched and cannot find an answer..
You can just unscrew them but what I do is screw them in a little bit more so they are not poking out and filler over them (that is if you are trying to repair the wall)
Hi There
Great video if I put up x2 spiral fixings will that be enough to hang a picture on?
Thank you
Hi! yes more than enough I usually only use one spiral fixing for a picture unless it was very large (bigger than 1mx1m) or has a hardwood frame or something.
@@beyondtheworkbench the biggest is 80cm x 80cm wooden frame
i’m due to move in the house this weekend, so I’m not sure whether the walls will be plasterboard or brick as it’s a new build
Thank you for the quick reply
Good luck@@slugie7934
Fantastic! I am in Sweden and need to fix a 65 inch tv to the wall. This is an old house from the sixties and apparently the boards used at the time on the walls are called Treetex, which is wood based but very similar to plasterboard. Would you recommend go with the expanders? the tv is about 30 kilos. Thanks!
Yea definitely the expanding ones for a TV it gives more insurance as you don't want it to fall off. I used as many as I could (|as many holes as your TV frame has) and it was ok. I am not sure on the material on the wall but the spreader fixings should work with most wall types
@@beyondtheworkbench Thank you for responding, I will give it a try! Great video!!!
I plan on hanging a 6kg IKEA mirror on to plasterboard. What Rawl plug do you recommend? Is an anchor fixing kit a bit OTT for that? Thanks
I would use the butterfly clip(anchor fixing) if it was anything you were worried about. Generally though the twist fixing is fine. You could always add a dab of silicone to the corners to relieve some of the pressure of the fixing if you wanted
Will that also work on eaves made from plasterboard? I will be installing a security camera.
If it is made from plasterboard it will work yes. Be careful though I have seen eaves made of asbestos and appear to be plasterboard. Plasterboard shouldn't be used for facias or soffits so it might be another material. In principle though they should work although the spacing between the holes on the camera might be too close to use a fixing for every hole
@@beyondtheworkbench thanks very much
Very useful video wish they didn't sell them as 'self drilling'
I know it ends up ruining the board
Great video mate! I have a question though. I am trying to install 2 shelves that are connected with 2 planks of wood (perpendicular to the shelves, so there are 4 screws, each at the end of the perpendicular plank). The thickness of this plank that binds the two shelves has a thickness of 2.5 cm (meaning between the wall where I instal the fixer and the head of the screw there will be 2.5 cm). Is that ok?
If you would answer I would be forever grateful and you would immediately become my forever personal hero 🦸
Thanks in advance
Hi, do you mean the connecting pieces run up the wall? as in the shelves are above one another connected by that wood?
You rarely get a nice clean void behind plasterboard. What I never see covered: what if there’s tightly packed kingspan directly behind the board? What if where you’re screwing has the stud there? What type of fixing then? What about if it’s dot and dab and you’re on a spot with the adhesive behind the board? Also what weight can the general purpose fixings hold up to? I can’t find anything telling you this
If it is kingspan then the screw type is fine as it only grabs in the plasterboard anyway or you need the butterfly clip that will pass over the kingspan. If its a stud you are in luck use a normal screw and it will be way stronger. If its dot and dab then the screw fixing is likely the best. the KG per fixing is usually quoted on the fixing packet depending on which one you chose and the fixing length.
Thank you for replying. I’ve bought the screw type ones. They say 7kg each, so two on an 8.5kg mirror will hopefully be ok. I’ll soon find out anyway 😂
Thanks pal
Welcome
Make a video on how to find vertical joists in wall or avoid pipes n wires for hone diy
Its really hard I have trouble all the time and I expect its down to how much you want to spend on the stud detector
My drill goes all way tho like to hollowness as if the board is super thin it’s a uk new build very cheap housing association I tried to put curtain holders they had small plugs I tapped of the drill bit before I even got to the tape the still bit had like gone all way through so the plugs only hold a small amount of the screw like just the end cause plug too far in 😭I could cry it’s so hard to even put a mirror up I try so hard to do it and it always fails don’t have a guy around to help so I do try myself but fail every time ❤
You should be ok with either fixing. Most plasterboard on walls is 12.5mm thick and these are designed for that. Hope it works out for you.
I’m not sure what size I would need with the second type of fixing. Doesn’t it depend on the thickness of the plasterboard (which I don’t know) 😢
You will most likely have 12.5mm plasterboard and most are designed to work with the normal thicknesses. The screw type will work with any thickness but will be better on the thicker ones. 12.5mm is the standard though and I would be surprised if it was any different.
Do these fixings work on insulated plasterboard? I've put up boards which are faced with 12.5mm PB bonded to 45mm phenolic insulation.
yes, the screw type just work the same. The butterfly firings will have to be long enough to pass through to the other end of the insulation as well as the plasterboard (assuming there is a cavity behind and its not solidly mounted to a brick wall)
@@beyondtheworkbench Thank you. Seems like the screw type would work best for me as it is battened straight to brick.
What size bit did you use to make the pilot hole for the spiral type. Please.
I think it was 10 mm
@offgridscotland Thank You. I followed your instructions and worked perfectly. Appreciated the clear explanation.
nice video now subscribed
Thanks!
What about the cement/brick wall, my shelves keeps falling off no matter what I use, I keep buying new plugs but this wall is not holding the shelves. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong an di have no idea what or is my kitchen wall that's crap. Drilling and filling holes is no joke! I m so frustrated. Btw Thank you very much for this tutorial.
I would use a masonry screw for those but you have to get the correct sized drill bit www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-tx-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5mm-x-60mm-100-pack/3313h
but if you already have holes and they are a bit mangled these will be what you want but make sure you get ones that will either fit in the holes you have drilled or bigger and then drill the larger hole for them. www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-rawlbolts-m10-x-75mm-5-pack/20828
@@beyondtheworkbench Thank you so much. I appreciate it.
I’ve put in a self drilling type, but the screw stick out out too much. Are there shorter screws available for these? It says to only use the screws it came with. Removing it has ruined the wall a bit. Is there a way to fix that hole? I’m trying to put up a floating shelf. Thanks.
I find floating shelves aren't much good and usually damage the wall unless you manage to find a stud to screw to. I would recommend the butterfly type as they hold more weight and if the screw type has ruined the plasterboard you may be able to fit one of the butterflies into that same hole. Once the plasterboard has broken there aren't any easy ways to make it hold a screw again, I would fill it and relocate if you didn't want to use the other type of fixing.
nice video.
Thank you very much
TY
Welcome
Thank you for the video, A good explanation, is worth a like and sub :)
Thanks a lot! Our other stuff is Off grid living but if that's your thing see you there
Just tried using 6 of these fixings for coat hooks, got the self drive screw in perfectly then the screw went in and ripped it out. Should I use a load of washers so it doesn’t go too far in? I hate plaster board 🥴
I found that if they are doing that it usually means the screw is hitting something inside the wall pushing the plug out you could either find another shorter screw that doesn't hit the other side of the wall thus pushing the fixing out or you could cut the end off the screws you have ( I have done this many times) or if it is hitting a brick wall you could just use some masonry screws or wood screws with plugs? I am not sure what the end of the screws is hitting on the other side?
Thanks I’ll try those tips next time 👍
Would any of these hold a radiator ?
Yea my plumbers used the smaller screw type to mount the rads. I always add a bit of adhesive to the back of the bracket where it contacts the plasterboard as well so there is a backup
Hi
I need to fix a 3" x 2" batten to a plasterboard/drywall - none of the screws shown here look long enough - how do I do it please?
You can purchase longer screw kits I think. however the way I would do it would be to drill a hole in the 3x2 to about 1/2 depth larger than the screw head then screw the screw into the wood so that it is sitting 1/2 way inside and it should reach. This would also give a better fixing because the location of the screw head is closer to the wall so there isn't as much leverage acting on the screw
Yes thanks - sounds a plan
Excellent video - just what I was looking for. One question - what is the “special tool” called that you need for the second fixing? Thank you - and keep up the good work!
Thanks, This is the link to the special tool however if you are careful you can tighten the screw and the legs at the back will flair out from the tightening. It wont be quite as good a fix but might be better than buying something if you are only doing a few fixings
www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-heavy-duty-setting-tool/8499G?kpid=8499G&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Screws%2C%20Nails%20and%20Fixings?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=CjwKCAjw_aemBhBLEiwAT98FMucMioqGG-ROZ5qgHc2fQkc_fRgQm38rJPaCSmMMMIxR8oYOyM8tgxoCYfUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
The second fixings are on if you have enough room behind the plaster board,I use the first fixings a lot though,great video
@@beyondtheworkbench thank you, exactly the answer I needed, special tool worth getting if you need to do a lot of repetitive work with that type of fixing. As other say, there are other fixings on the market so investing in a tool for a couple of jobs not worth it, but Screwfix sold that type of fixing to me, so that's what I'll be using (this time)!
Glad to be of help@@wotviewer
Can you unscrew/remove the second screw-type?
Yes it is really good for that. The fixing stays in the wall and acts as the nut and you can remove the bolt without affecting the wall/spreader clip you fixed in.
@@beyondtheworkbench Any idea how the fixing itself could be removed?
If it is to repair the wall and hide that there was a fixing there I would just knock it in and filler over it. You could try pulling it out but there will likely be a lot more damage than if you pushed it into the wall.@@jbarszczewski
@@beyondtheworkbench ok that makes sense. Thanks for quick answer!
Ignore this coblors is made clear don't use a impact driver do it by hand
Yup
Cheers
You are welcome
Can't see what your talking about... "these are good for general fixing" but no close up of the product lol
Sorry. Hopefully the links in the description will have close ups of what you wanted to see.
"Continuity is HARD"
You need a good cameraman
You should see my more recent videos it gets worse
Plan your video. Take some pictures or shorts of all things that need zooming in or shown in detail. Then editing is easy.Also use remote for zooming in.
What he mean 'these ones'? This is supposed to be an instructional video and he is skipping all of the instruction.
Do you need any clarification? Let me know what you need and I will try to answer it here. Sorry if I missed anything in the video
I disagree, the instructions are crystal clear
I agree, due to the distance of filming he could have used the proper names. But watching the whole video through, it became clear he was demonstrating how to do the screwing in ones first and the spreader ones second.
Very helpful! Thanks @offgridscotland - I’m going to put my first shelf up tomorrow thanks to you! 🥰
Get the biggest impact driver you can and put your plug in, you see why the rest of the room he's working in is empty, he not managed to put any plaster board up yet
The zinc fixings are total rubbish, easily snap, wouldn’t hang a t-towel from one
Thank you for the comment
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Not sure what this is but thanks for the comment anyway