VW TDI HPFP problem SOLVED CP3 mod CA SMOG LEGAL with EGR not deleted how I did it
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Mac Performance facebook. He sells on ebay. check him out very good guy in Romania
/ cp3upgrade \
This is not a paid promotion I simply put this link in here so you guys might easier find a cp3 kit. There are several out there but this guys is the least expensive.
Use this link to buy anything on Amazon to help out the channel cost you nothing. amzn.to/3iPg2Lg
FYI I have never done this job before. I could not find a video on doing it. So I decided to make a video showing how I am doing this. Hopefully it helps you learn how to do yours. Here is a IMPORTANT PART 2 ruclips.net/video/bWcVVgt7Rhc/видео.html
Thanks for the video Mike !! All I can say is HOLY 💩 that's ALOT of work !! I wonder what the VW tech's do to fix it? do they pull the engine? or leave it in? and how much they charge ?? I mean if you plan on 3 days to fix it !! The good thing is that now everyone who wants do this has an AWESOME video to watch !! Stay safe brother !!
@@mattstick1man563 Probably after watching my video hopefully people will learn the wrench trick to bend the line. Might have done it in half the time. But service mode is a plus. IMO. pulling the front of the car off only takes about 2 hours max. a good mechanic could have it off in an hour or less.
An hour isn't bad, I guess since I've never done it before it looks way more complicated than it really is.
I guess that must why some people prefer vintage air cooled vw. Very simple. That engine looks complicated
way tooo.....but the ONLY reason I am fixing it is because I give less money to the CA government....Gas taxes. this sucker can get over 40 mpg. like 47 once I am done with all the mods.
I have had aircooled all my life, (first one was a ‘64 in ‘67) and I’m well into 500K miles on my TDis. One drives me to the other...all the time. I’m sure when I go “all electric” all my headaches will go away. Yeah, right..
yea cant deal with the range issues with electric. Sometimes I do 800 mile stretches. many times 400 plus in one day. Electric just cant do that. They are great for commuters but IMO that is about it. PLUS 100k for a tesla long range. GIve me a break. ha ha.
I wish I could install a TDI in my Vanagon. 🥰
Alas, Commiefornia! 😎😎😎👍👍👍
They do have a M TDI. mechanical that can be put in a vanagon. My rabbit pickup has the AAZ which is pretty good. with the turbo. I can put more weight in that truck than the bed will hold and it still pulls super strong. lots of torque. would work wonders in a vanagon.
@@Mikefngarage my understanding is that in California I can’t do that. Do you know something I don’t? I would love to go diesel. My current plan is Subaru if I can find a complete car but I’d rather TDI. 🤗 I’m here in south OC.
@@MostynFaulkner Unless the law has Very recently changed. I would Call BAR. and ask but people are doing it all the time. You go to the referee and get them to verify it is diesel then you never need smog again. Equipment on earlier than 99 is PCV and that is it. Straight pipe turbo all free game. Converting to DIesel is much less work than Subaru. All parts available 1.9 AAZ is mostly the same as 1.6 so pan and mounting goes right in. Who knows best is Quality German Auto parts in Victorville. He sells the engines. Knows what fits in what. Sell you a complete kit. Cheaper than Subaru and easier. IMO better power for the weight and 30 plus MPG in a vanagon. Yes 30 plus.
@@Mikefngarage thanks a million Mike. I will take your advice and let you know how it goes.
Where are you located? I’m looking at purchasing a 2011 2.0 tdi and this would be something I do right off the bat if I end up purchasing one of these cars. My only concern is I’m in California and I’m concerned it wouldn’t pass the visual test for smog since I’m sure the smog techs pay extra special attention to these VWs after the whole dieselgate scandal
Mike lives in California.
TOTALLY SMOG LEGAL..I live in CA talked to the smog tech and the fuel pump is not an emissions requirement. The guy who sold it to me says people are doing them all the time in CA. THe only way I would consider buying a 2.0 is if the pump is NEW and or changed to a cp3. otherwise they are a ticking time bomb. When I purchased this car at 165k miles the pump and fuel system was just changed.
@@Mikefngarage thank you for the info. I’m a diesel mechanic so I have the means to do the swap and I would be doing it immediately now that I know it won’t be an issue for smog. Looking forward to seeing an update video with the engine back in the car. Keep up the good videos👍
Remember these cars have really 2 Issues. Well 3. They are extremely hard to work on. that is the 3rd. But the dual mass flywheel wears out Mine went out at 240k miles. and the fuel pump. Other than that if you keep German spec 507 oil in it most everything else less the turbo (usually lasts like 300k or more miles on german oil) THe body, suspension, brakes trans, and other stuff is super bulletproof. Just every time you work on it you will say WTF did I buy this for. Then when your driving it for many many miles you remember why.
@@no.1prepper181 Sweeeet cant wait to drive it . these cars other than the fuel pump are super amazing. Also to get 47mpg all the time Kerma TDI has a Flash and gets better mileage and 170hp. you can Put your middle finger up to Gavin's gas tax. Checking right now to see if MAC performance can help me with the flash too. might be cheaper. Will put a video f that up too. 2010 and up have the CJA engine which has the better oil pump CBE 2009 have oil pump issues.
hate to see that dpf at 0:40 :( ty for the video mike
Do you still have those instructions? would appreciate if you could post thx
seems like ALH was well done, accidentally
Wish I had the skills to put a cp3 in! Also you mentioned loosening the cam bolts before setting the tension. All the people I watched doing it tightened the cam bolts first. Do you have the instructions by chance? Just did mine and Isn’t starting and now worried about my hpfp as air got in the system
So loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts first before tensioning the tensioner? Also where should the window on the HPFP bolts be. On myturboDiesel it says centered but noticed there to the left from the factory.
Also should the HPFP bolts be loose also before setting the tensioner then tighten the cam sprocket and HPFP
This guy made a video of the difference between cp3 and cp4. check this out SHOCKING
ruclips.net/video/uUu3XmOAWnI/видео.html
You did make a video to show how you bend the pipe ? Been searching your Playlist
Wow Mike, Your going to need a bug to work on just to give yourself a mental break after this and your lift truck projects. Looking forward to seeing this one done and back on the road
Awesome job Mike! Next: lets make some power on this car :)
How about a performance program that keeps the engine light off. PROM update or Flash do you do those.
If you have any tips put a detailed comment and I will pin it also a link to your facebook. Video will increase sales for sure. and if you want put a link on your facebook. also might help. and get more views as well for me.
Yeah! Make 400 HP out of that thing!! Dark side developments on RUclips does some bad ass stuff to diesels and wish I was more mechanically inclined. I’ve saved myself thousands of dollars working on my own cars but this is technical!
Morning Mike. Hope your keeping well 👍🏻 I just love watching your videos as I lean so much even though I don't fix cars anymore lol 😂 Good luck on the big fire up on the next video on the VW 🙂 Take care cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Lol after I messaged you about what I should do to my TDI to keep it running and you telling me to replace a high pressure fuel pump My high pressure fuel pump died so I'm doing the high pressure fuel pump is this the standard kit that is for like the Audi A3 TDI or is this need to be some special kit specifically for the Jetta CJAA specifically
Hi, Do you know if this kit is still available in 2024? I had trouble finding his website or ebay listing.
Thank you for the super informative video! I’m about to do the exact same thing on my 2011. If has 370k on it, have done absolutely nothing but one particulate filter! Not even belts! Been an unbelievable car so far. I just parked it last month because I’m afraid its a time bomb because of the timing belt and hpfp. Now I’m working up the nerve to dig into it. One other thing I see in the near future is the dsg clutch. It’s rattling when it idles in neutral. Your totally right that these cars are bulletproof, I never miss oil changes and I do them at 4-5k miles. It doesn’t burn any oil between changes! Hard to believe. I live in Fresno ca, if you are up for doing another one I’d pay you good money to do mine. I see you pay attention to details!!!
you need to do your dual mass flywheel. that rattle can be catastrophic. timing belt and water pump. at the same time you do the pump. car is well engineered but really hard to work on. still working on mine not running again yet. the trans was having some issues but minor ones. Got a replacement but something is wrong with the one I got.
Good to know about the clutch! Not going to drive it another mile until all of it has been done. It runs so good I would hate to have it self destruct. Sorry to hear about your trans! Hope your able to find a nice solid replacement
If you where getting paid flat rate you'd loose your shirt on this one ;-)
for sure
Got her fired up and several test drives after timing belt install. No check engine light is coming on however, she’s taking awhile to start and getting camshaft sensor code coming up on obd but no check engine light. She’s running great other then starting issues. Would I have to remove timing belt again to replace camshaft position sensor? Not really any info wherever i look to find procedure..
Looking forward to the results of your modification. I have a 2014, mark 6, with the same HPFP from Bosch-and I regularly use Opti-Lube’s XL, XPD, Winter, Summer+Cetane and Boost-varying with respect to season. So far so good. I’m a Nor Cal person that uses local B20, Diesel HPR from Propel, and Chevron Diesel #2 when the latter’s unavailable. I got the car with 46k on it-now I just passed 70k. It’s an amazing performer! Thank you for all your tips-you do good, frank assessments for the DIY TDI people, and I thank you for it. I may just replace at 100k with original pump, if the Opti-Lube proves to be the best at fuel lubricity, but I’m not sure. Thank you for assisting my research on the TDI 💚🤟💚👍
GOOD as I showed the cp4 should be removed from all vehicules
Cp3 has : Steel cylinders, smaller forces on much larger surface area plus pressure lube and cooled
cant wait to fire it up. wish I had the 170 program too from Kerma. Yea Put a link from your video showing the difference. I saw that and that was what made me want to change it out. Do you know if the CP3 will fit on the fords. I hear it wont. I have a duramax with cp3 LB7.
I put another link of your CP3 and 4 compare video on a comment. lets see how many people we can help. thanks for that video.
@@Mikefngarage last ford I saw it had no room to fit the cp3 in the valley of the block. Unless you drive it off the strap like dual fuelers do ! Cp3 will fit the cummins and duramax 2011-16. I have seen many cp3 equiped duramax haulers with over 700 000 miles on them so on a 2.0l tdi it wont see as much fuel through it to ever fail. We cant wait to see it either !
@@Mikefngarage Thanks, and my friend's 2012 2.0 tdi failed at 64 000 miles. That's unacceptable even with our lower viscosity diesel in the winter. That was a few years ago and he's reported he's getting some weird noises again here and there. :(
Yes never order with ups is bad
especially during Covid. Customs got stuck there for a while.
Just ordered a kit from Matt Whitbread here in the states. 2 year warrantee on reman pump from UK diesel. $810 shipped. Cheap piece of mind for me.
oh yea for sure. I didnt see anybody selling a kit here. Where did you find this guy. All the cp3 pumps that fit VWs are in Europe or England.
@@Mikefngarage Whitbread Performance : whitbreadperformance.com/products/cr-tdi-cp3-adapter-kit?_pos=1&_sid=429556b8f&_ss=r
Matt is out of the Midwest somewhere. Shipping was $15.
@@thomassawtelle7089 Cool there are several CP3 pumps as well That is why I went with the Romanian guy His for 950 plus shipping comes with the pump. Make sure you get the right metering valve as well about 6 different varieties of them. And you should plan on getting the tune for it. I got the Malone tune. They take the numbers off of the valve and pump and get the matching software to get the best performance. The one I got would run on a stock tune. Some will barely and give low fuel pressure warning. Very soon I should be making a new video showing more about this stuff. But dont get discouraged. not doing it would be a mistake in the long run.
@@Mikefngarage I look forward to seeing the video. Would like to know the part number so I can confirm the metering valve on my pump works prior to install as I’m not planning on tuning the car. Also, no one shows removing the secondary lift pump from the car. Did you do this to your vehicle, and perhaps this is another video idea?
@@thomassawtelle7089 yea I did remove the secondary lift pump. Was not clear on the instructions but I finally figured it out. Many guys get low fuel rail pressure after the pump install. I didnt but I still got the tune. FYI it does cost some money. but it pays back in MPG. guys say stage 2 gives you 5 to 7 mpg better mileage. You may end up with low fuel rail pressure warning. and get a code. so the tune might be necessary. Also the tune clears all the crap that they put in on the emissions scandal so you get more power. and the engine light wont come on. It still has readiness so you will pass emissions. I got the malone because I could go to a dealer (they are all over) and have them do it right there. More expensive than downloading and doing it yourself but no guessing learning curve or headaches.
Loved your video. Just finishing the same job on a 2011 Golf with the engine in the car. Had the same problems with the fuel line bending. I appreciate your comments about that and the 17mm wrench is great advice. No room for a tubing bender in there.
One trick that worked for me with the electrical connector is to use paper clip ends to loosen the electrical connectors so I could pull them out. The slip right into the new connector.
Another trick was to remove the motor mount by putting a jack under the engine and pulling the bolts out on the portion that attaches to the engine lifting and dropping the engine for access. Quick and easy to get the motor mount out and after it's removed, there's a lot of room to work on the front of the engine.
I have three Mk6 TDI cars. The one I'm just finishing I bought from a guy after the HPFP exploded. I plan to swap in a CP3 pump on another when it hits 120k while I do the timing belt/water pump/ belts. If the pump is still ok, the job is easy. My other two cars are both covered by the VW extended warranty so I'm holding off till the warranty expires.
oh yea for sure dont do them if they are covered. Check Cascade German for parts too. they have OEM parts, Fuel system kits CHEAP. even OEM thermostats. all kinds of stuff. saved me thousands. DSG clutch sets OEM straight from Germany. They avoid VW of America markup.
Have a 13’ Jetta currently with 130k. Gonna do the timing belt, alternator, thermostat, and clutch at 150k miles. But after seeing this video might have to add the CP3 conversion into it now 👍
for sure do it. takes away all those worries. those CP4s are a ticking time bomb and expensive problem when they go. My buddies went out at 120k miles your on the edge. Order one now it will be there in a month. guy in Romania is the best price on ebay and good guy.
So the top left nut on the fuel pump. Early in the video, you said you might have to clearance the plastic to get it to fit. Did you clearance the plastic?
Later you mentioned you might have to shave down the stud, on the same nut. Did you have to shave down the stud or nut for clearance on the timing belt?
Thanks.
no the nut could not hit the belt.
Kit maker remarks about oil line placement.. "It's super simple, Barley an inconvenience". 😭. 😎😎😎👍👍👍
yea several hours later. ha ha. he has done several. I think I figured out a better way to bend it right at the end using a wrench over the line.
What cars use this pump from factory?
After placing the cp3 on it... did you need remap the ECU??
Not really but I had them do a HEX file for more power. If you have the right metering valve you should be able to do it without any tune.
Hello Mike, your videos are really helpful. Would you mind of sharing the width of the adapter plate ? in other words, what is the with of this adapter plate. thanks
Great video. Take care.
Thanks 👍
Nice job. Când you tell me what is the bracket thickness? I try to do one for my car.
IDK the exact thickness just till it fits. little by little. bolt the pump in first then slide the bracket down there make sure the bolt does not poke through either.
@@Mikefngarage i ment the plate betwen the new pump and the aluminium engine bracket
@@Mikefngarage the big rotund one
@@Mikefngarage the adaptor plate, looks like 5mm
buy doing this do you use the auxiliary pump or would it be deleted
Does the new fuel pump have to be set to time or is just thrown in there?
Where do you find the written literature? On timing belt
my turbo diesel website great stuff for that
@@Mikefngarage That’s what I just recently subscribed to and payed for year membership! Thanks for the reply Mike!
@@Mikefngarage So when you put the tensioner pointer in the window and wrap everything up. Is it supposed to remain in the window after you turned the engine over manually? I had it in the window when I set the adjustment and cam,hpfp bolts loose. Everything is set perfect but the pointer is now to the left of the window.