Absolutely! We do the wiring as a separate video. You can see the Curt # C56040 being installed by checking out this link: www.etrailer.com/tv-install-curt-trailer-wiring-2023-subaru-outback-wagon-c56040.aspx
I found this hitch extremely difficult to work with. It was very difficult to get the bolts to lineu up including pulling those bolts through the holes inside of the frame. If I had to do it again I would probably use the U-Haul hitch that mounts from underneath and the entire hitch is exposed. I have installed hitches on many cars before and found this one to be by far the most difficult to work with
I've done a few of these in the workshop, very quick and easy. I usually get done in about 30-40 minutes with installing the hitch if we take out the wiring needed. The wiring job is not fun
We're glad to hear of your successful install! The wiring installs can be challenging. There isn't much room to get your hands in behind those panels and it's quite a bit of work to get them loose. www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/C67JR.html
So, you're calling it a class three hitch, which are rated for 8k pounds. But the website you link to says 3500 lbs; which is class two. And the outback you're working on is only rated for 2700. Seems like some funky marketing going on here. Why would someone choose your hitch over the oem that has a stronger connection to the frame?
By definition, a Class III hitch can be rated from 3500-8000 lbs. There is some overlap with a Class II hitch, which has a 2000-3500 lb rating. As far as the discrepancy between the hitch and the vehicle capacity goes, it's very common to find an aftermarket hitch with a higher capacity than the vehicle itself. An aftermarket hitch is typically much less expensive than the OEM version, which is why some find that option attractive.
Because of the difficulty of the install, that's good advice for most folk for sure. You can find a local installer by using this link: www.etrailer.com/installer/near-me/trailer-hitch www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/C67JR.html
So instrumental and descriptive. Appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/C67JR.html
It would probably be a good time to make up the connection for the trailer wiring harness while the fascia is off.
Absolutely! We do the wiring as a separate video. You can see the Curt # C56040 being installed by checking out this link:
www.etrailer.com/tv-install-curt-trailer-wiring-2023-subaru-outback-wagon-c56040.aspx
I found this hitch extremely difficult to work with. It was very difficult to get the bolts to lineu up including pulling those bolts through the holes inside of the frame. If I had to do it again I would probably use the U-Haul hitch that mounts from underneath and the entire hitch is exposed. I have installed hitches on many cars before and found this one to be by far the most difficult to work with
I've done a few of these in the workshop, very quick and easy. I usually get done in about 30-40 minutes with installing the hitch if we take out the wiring needed. The wiring job is not fun
We're glad to hear of your successful install! The wiring installs can be challenging. There isn't much room to get your hands in behind those panels and it's quite a bit of work to get them loose.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/C67JR.html
How is the wiring job not fun? It's a single connector in the trunk area. It takes 2 minutes
Seems like a great deal… what’s the hitch?
HA! We see what you did there....
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/C67JR.html
So, you're calling it a class three hitch, which are rated for 8k pounds. But the website you link to says 3500 lbs; which is class two. And the outback you're working on is only rated for 2700. Seems like some funky marketing going on here. Why would someone choose your hitch over the oem that has a stronger connection to the frame?
By definition, a Class III hitch can be rated from 3500-8000 lbs. There is some overlap with a Class II hitch, which has a 2000-3500 lb rating. As far as the discrepancy between the hitch and the vehicle capacity goes, it's very common to find an aftermarket hitch with a higher capacity than the vehicle itself.
An aftermarket hitch is typically much less expensive than the OEM version, which is why some find that option attractive.
Best to allow Subaru mechanics to install the hitch - that's what I did.
Because of the difficulty of the install, that's good advice for most folk for sure. You can find a local installer by using this link:
www.etrailer.com/installer/near-me/trailer-hitch
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/C67JR.html
A lot of bla bla bla until about 3:20, skip to there to watch the actual install.
Some people like the bla bla bla....
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/C67JR.html