Thank you so much for all your videos on this. I made a custom seat pad that fills in the wings and massively improves the comfort, but even in a nice black vinyl it doesn't look as good as this. Thank you for helping me get up the nerve to try my own mods. Also you have clearly already solved this problem but I just took out my headrests and turned them around. I do this is almost every rental car and in most cars - including my model 3 it looks great and no over notices that they arent standard.
Thanks for posting this. Great visual guide for seat removal. Like you, I'm not happy with The seat on my 2022 long range M3. I'm sure its going to take a little experimentation but I'm going a different route to modify it from underneath the foam to hopefully keep the top surface as close to stock looking as possible
For a limited few raising the seat bottom alone can help a bit. But for most it’s not enough. Furthermore you won’t get the floating suspension of replacing the entire foam. Be careful not to disconnect the sensor for person in seat. Even for such a small change it’s still easier to remove the four floor bolts.
Corrections, I learned over the year of doing many, many seats. You do not need to cut anything to remove the cover. It's all snaps and velcro. I DO NOT make them like this anymore!!!!!!! I completely replace the foam with a foam from a completely different car with better seats. Then I cut the grooves and secure by sewing. It looks like stock.
Thank you for this video. I too have the same problem. The side bolsters dig into my hips and makes driving uncomfortable. After having my MYP for a year, I was hoping the bolsters would soften or flatten to my hip shape. Unfortunately, the seats are just as uncomfortable as day1. I am interested in your service. I have to find a spare white seat pan to send.
The white is the color of the cover, it makes little difference to the modification. I won't be changing the cover. But I don't have a spare white cover here. If you wanted me to build the entire bottom up, I'd need to buy 2 seat cushions and at least one needs to be white. I'd ship to you for the swap. Or you'd ship me yours and I'd buy one spare and build it up and ship back for your installation. The process is to pull the seat bottom out of the car. And swap with a rebuilt seat bottom. I modify the seat bottom by using two spare seat bottoms. I cut the wings off one and place it "inside" the other. The two go back inside the seat cover. Then the assembly goes back into the car. If you are handy, I can help with removal of the seat bottom. The reason that it doesn't flatten is because it cannot. The wings cover the metal base underneath and it rises where the wings are. Keep in mind that I learned even more since making this particular video. Additionally, if you have pinched nerves in your lower back, that can contribute and we need to ensure your seating posture is also good. But I like the final mod and I won't go back to the stock seat with those darned wings! Please text me if you want more help with this. I'm at (Sev en - One- 9)-2fourfour-SevenOneTwo4. I am located in Florida. Sincerely, George
Let me know if you'd like me to build a custom seat for you. I've learned a great deal and I'm on my finest builds now. George Borrelli Crystal River, Florida sven one Nine -244 - sven one 24
Thanks for the video, George. I just picked up my Model Y Performance and have the same issue, although my passenger seat is extremely comfortable. Through your Trial & Error, do you think it would be feasible to swap the bottom seats of the driver side and passenger side seats?
From a comfort perspective, they should be identical. I'd be surprised to see any advantage. But if you pursue, they are wired differently. You'd have to swap sensors. The passenger seat sensor is more sophisticated and It must stay on that side . I think it could be done though. I just can't understand how it could help.
Matthew I just got a a spare right side seat pan. I studied the differences. There is a difference that you might possibly feel but it is subtle. The sensor is essentially a large double piece of plastic in a several inches rectangle which sits on top of the metal spring of the metal pan and below the seat cushion pad. That would move you up just slightly and that might reduce pressure from the wings just a tad. If you wish to emulate that on the driver's side, what I'd do is insert a spacer underneath the cushion on top of the metal spring. You have to do this carefully so not to disconnect the wire/ connector to the driver's sensor which is glued to the top of the cushion, underneath the leather top. If you want more help, email me. george.s.borrelli (use the at sign) gmail.com
I finally modified my passenger seat. The main difference from driver's side to passenger side is the pressure sensor pad. The one on the passenger side is quite large in surface are and is mounted on top of the spring, below the foam of the seat bottom. This has the effect of moving the seat cushion up and reducing the spring action downwards. The one on the driver's side is very flexible and quite small and mounted on top of the foam, having no impact upon the springs or seat height. If all you need is that little of a change, I'd suggest putting an equivalent flat piece of material underneath the driver's seat. Try to emulate what's going on in your passenger seat. You'll have to be careful with the routing of the seat pressure sensor wire which is routed through the springs, roughly centered from the top of the foam, through a hole in the foam. That sensor on the driver's side is glued to the top center of the seat bottom foam. For your driver's side mod, I'd try something moderately stiff and about 1/8 to 1/2 " thick. A suggestion is that you get some thick cardboard and layer it. Cut it to roughly cover all the springs over the open space. Use that to test the idea. When the seat foam is lifted, it brings your bottom further up out of the metal frame. It's the metal frame that's the issue. When lifted you're likely to feel the wings (actually the metal frame) less. The foam on driver and passenger's side are the same and would make no difference in a swap.
Yes I can. Two ways to reach me. Seben (6+1)-19-2fourfour-SebenOneTwoFour or george dot s dot b(sounds like oh)rrell(sounds like eye) at gmail dot com From there we can discover what you are suffering and what might help you. I am home today if you have time to reach out.
You can easily turn off the power on the display screen. It will come back on at the touch of your brake. Your choice, and it is recommended, and quite easy. I didn't do it. I've turned off the power only for a couple of mods that I've made. I found it to be a little bit of hassle with the seats, since I have to move them quite a bit (all the way forward, all the way back, the seat back all the way back and all the way forward) during a seat bottom removal and replacement and for head rest removal and replacement. It's up to you, it's your risk. I guess there's some chance something could go wrong with the seat pressure sensor and the car's computer, when you unplug and plug and put weight on and off. I'd speculate there shouldn't be a problem with the seat heater connector(s). Maybe turn off power when doing work with the electrical connectors would be advised. I hope this helps some.
I've seen people disconnecting the low voltage 12v battery, there's an entire procedure for that process. I don't mess with the upper seat back where the air bag is located. I simply shut off power at the display when I'm concerned, and that's not very often. Always use caution if you mess with something related to air bags.
I have observed the factory seat heating elements are close to the seat cover surface. it seems you are covering the heating elements with more insulation. what are you telling folks about the effect on seat heating and higher heating element temperatures?
I put nothing between the heater elements and the person. That’s totally unchanged. I installed replacement foam below. It’s where the stock foam goes just like the stock foam, and some below that. There’s no impact to seat heat.
Since you’ve had the seat out, how easy would it be to take out and reposition the seat rails farther back ? I’m not tall (5’6’’) but would like to be able to use my MacBook from the drivers seat, E.g. while charging or at a customer site … Tesla M3 seats don’t go back far enough … drove my brother’s Hyundai Ioniq 5 recently and the driver’s seat goes a long way back and I could work easily from the car.
I have done that before in Classic Vintage Cadillac cars. I made a plate adapter and moved the rails connection point back. The Tesla Model 3 (and likely all other models) has a rather substantial location "Pin(s)" on the bottom of the rails, towards the front, middle and rear, near the floor bolts. The old GM cars didn't have a "location pin" at all. That pin likely serves multiple purposes. One is to prevent sheer forces from moving the rails forward or backwards in collision, should the bolts sheer. These pins would be difficult to get around. I personally wouldn't want to cut it off, nor drill a hole further back in the car floor. There may be other ways to do this that I haven't worked out in my mind as yet. Although I'm tall, I'm tall mostly in my upper body. I'm sort of "normal" length in the legs. But in most cars I'd like the option to stretch my legs out fully on longer drives. I plan to pull my seat off again soon to experiment with another modification. I'll look at the rail configuration and see if there's any other ideas I can come up with. I have not yet pulled the rails out of the car. I just unbolt them from the floor and just rock the entire assembly in place, while removing and installing the seat cushion changes. It definitely can be done, moving the rails to another location, the question is how much work you want to do and do you want to weaken the connection to the floor in any way. I'm certain if you got another set of rails on Ebay or elsewhere, you could cut off the "pin" and install it in another location. you could also drill the bolt holes in the rails in other locations. That might be the best design. But you'd need the ability or know someone who can do the welding for you. An option, not recommended, but easier is to: Cut off the 2 pins plus a metal piece off each rail, with a cutoff wheel. Then drill holes in the new location. That might get you an inch pretty easily. To go further, you'd need a steel plate as an adapter. Bolt the rails to the plate where you want the new location, and bolt the plate to the floor. I don't know if a change to the motor/drive interface is possible. It would certainly be difficult. If I were going to play with such a change, I'd purchase a used set of rails to experiment with first. Best of luck. Let me know if you have additional ideas or questions or you proceed. I'd like to know your selected approach. After some examination and thinking. The best approach might be to buy a salvage seat rail system. Then remove the bottom rails. Spot weld the rails from your car on top of it. It would raise the seat system about an inch but you'd be able to bolt to the floor properly.
I just obtained a spare seat rail system. I can take pictures and investigate further if you want. Just email me at george.s.borrelli (use the at sign here) gmail.com
I found a way to get a full inch and a quarter more back. It involves removing the base and removing screws and relocating the rails back. It will lose that much forward as well as gaining it rearwards. Send me an email if interested. george.s.borrelli (use at sign here) gmail.com
I don't remove the entire seat. I haven't touched the upper seat where the air bag is. I'm only working with the seat lower or bottom. There's no air bag in the bottom. Also to be safe, shut off power when disconnecting and connecting wires.
Unbolt the metal base from the floor. Rock the seat assembly back. Now you have full access to the underneath. The Tesla model 3/Y has two connectors on the driver's side for the seat bottom. The larger gray is towards the cars center console in the rear. Trace to make sure it goes into the back of the seat bottom. There's a push tab release. The gray is the seat bottom heater. There's a tiny black connector on a clip hanging to the white plastic. It is more centered underneath. That's the seat sensor. Most models just pull apart. Some click together. This is all the wires for driver's side seat bottom. Don't tug on wires. Hold both sides out the connector when pulling apart.
I had to leave the existing seat bottom foam as-is and then insert filler in the lower portion to flatten it out. It does raise the seat some, to the level of the wings. You can't just cut down the wings because the metal frame is underneath and that would then stick out. I finally inserted an actual OEM seat cushion into the lower part of the seat cushion foam, it had all the grooves and attachment points for the cover to be secured down into. I did cut/ modify that added foam to make the finish product flattened.
@@georgeborrelli3134 The seats have finally broken in enough that sitting on the bolster doesn't cause pain. But I still think it's a ridiculous design, any other car the seat bottom is what you sit on, and the bolster wraps around the side of your legs. I raised the seat maybe 1-2" using the electronic controls, leaned the seat back more vertically, and the final key to the puzzle for me was to put 1" thick closed cell foam under the factory floor mats, which raises the recessed area of the floor so it is one continuous plane. I have all weather mats put directly on top of the factory mats, and the foam/stockfloormat combo doesn't slide around or cause issues. The result is a MUCH more familiar sitting position with my heel raised up a bit, and my foot is not forced to be bent at a 90 degree angle, but rather 45 to 60 degrees. The deep footwell used to cause the area behind my knee to become painful, because my femur was resting directly on the edge of the seat. The foam I used is polyethylene I think, it does not compress over time. So far pretty happy with the changes and now I am not fooling with a seat pad any longer.
@@chatch15117 Chris, Thank you for the explanation and details. I'm surprised that the bolster has broken down enough to work. Underneath those bolsters is metal. But if it works, good! I agree it's a ridiculous design, unless you are narrow and smaller. There's only 11” width in there and I'm 12+” anyway. Additionally, being of a slightly larger size overall than the norm, my legs are probably wider/thicker and the bolster bothered me most of the length, until I got rid of it entirely. Your work is interesting to me: “1" thick closed cell foam under the factory floor mats, which raises the recessed area of the floor so it is one continuous plane.” I didn't think there was much of a recessed area. But after reading your comment, I just checked and the only “recessed area” is nearly underneath the pedals, real close. I think they intend for the heels of the shoes to go there? That would cause your 90 degree foot position. Wow. I think that I understand your meaning. I will go out to the car and experiment with the floor. I'll try putting something there and see what it's like to drive that way. Where did you get the closed cell foam? Thank you for your comments and that additional idea/change.
@@georgeborrelli3134 I got the foam from packing materials I saved, it was specifically included with "Naish Thrust Windsurf" wing and mast combo. But you should be able to shop for some 1" (or 25mm) thick closed cell PE foam on Amazon. It is constructed of 5mm thick sheets of the foam stuck together in layers to get to 1in/25mm thickness. So if you can't find supply, look for a roll of the 5mm thick kind, cut it into rectangles and use some Loctite spray adhesive to stick your layers together. Then trim it in the car to fit around the dead pedal. My wife never had a problem with the seats, but after I raised the floor near the pedals so it is level with the rest of the floor, she says it is much better than before and prefers the floor boosted up a bit.
George, thanks for the video. I just received my Model S Plaid a month ago and the seat bottom where my butt goes is too stiff. I took it to an upholstery shop and he removed the original cushion and put in two half inch memory foam pieces and didn't put the clips back on the seat so I can sink into it. However, I don't think he put enough memory foam in. I feel like he should of put in 2 inch thick memory foam. I have this done to my other cars and it worked well but the shop I used a few years ago stopped doing it. I don't have an issue with the side bolsters, its just the seat bottom is too firm and puts pressure on my lower back. Any suggestions?
That is likely the springs and not so much the foam. Well, I'm revising that statement. It's both. I've seen in a car that I'm very comfortable sitting in, where the stock foam is HUGE. I love that seat! And it has similar springs to the Tesla's. So, you can make up for lack of springs, with foam. But I recommend stock seat foam and not memory foam. I also recommend as thick as you can. Suggest double the stock thickness but using entirely factory-type foam. The foam does play a role. How much? Devil in the details. Read on.... The springs are a very stiff affair. They are horizontally mounted zigzag type. I am currently experimenting with alternative springs that I'm building from stock. This will take time and iterations. It gets complicated because, should the seat springs give more, the foam may accommodate differently than stock configuration. And it depends upon the person. If you fit well inside the bolster sides, then sinking more shouldn't be as big an issue. On the matter of foam. Foam is more complex than I initially thought. Now that I've been playing around with seat changes, I've learned a lot! Foam comes in many different levels of “give” or “squishiness” LOL. If the foam is too compressible, you won't get what you are looking for. The foam won't do any real "suspension". It just compresses and basically stays there. You are asking a lot of a few inches of foam to handle genuine sinking or suspension! I think of foam as handling conforming and not “sinking” Sinking is the job of the suspension. In this case the springs. But as I stated up front, you can get the equivalent using a thick layer of stock foam. I think of memory foam as some of the most compressible of foams. Therefore the memory foam should be used as a “topper” only. The foam doing the largest part of the work, and a bit of the suspension, has to be MUCH thicker and quite a bit LESS compressible. If you can experiment with different foams. I would put a layer of fairly robust foam and then a layer of softer foam on top. I would also try softer springs. And possibly focus upon the springs, if someone has the capability and you can afford such custom work. An approach that I'm using now is to essentially double up the stock foam. That foam is the right compression resistance, but there simply isn't enough of it. I'm doing some detailed examination, comparing the Tesla foam to other car. The other car has very similar metal base and spring designs, but the foams are radically different. The car I find very comfortable for many, many hours has a foam that might be double in thickness over the Tesla. The difficulty then is how to fit the stock cover on such a thick foam. I've been custom cutting the foams to get them to fit and then adding a spacer underneath so the top can attach in the back, underneath. Another possibility is to make the foam as thick as you like and replace the stock seat covers with after market covers that you may be able to modify to fit the bigger foam inside of. What's going to matter is your body weight and how you sit in the seat. By using different seating positions, you will put more or less weight into the seat where it compresses. For example, more weight in the thighs, less sinking in the seat bones. More weight on the floor via feet, less weight in the seat as a whole. Also if you lean back, the back will take a small percentage of your body weight. This video may be helpful as well. I just made this today! ruclips.net/video/JHjnO9jUUsY/видео.html Then check out this video!!! ruclips.net/video/mrkSnZCf1Bk/видео.html When you say the seat puts more pressure on your lower back. Do you mean when the car bottoms on the road and your weight goes down into the seat, the bottom is too stiff and your back compresses? If you have back issues such as disc issues, these are difficult to work through. When we get into back... Then we should address overall body posture, head rest and head positioning, lordosis or lumbar support, etc. I can relate! If you wish to contact me, call me. Text if you wish. I'm at Seven One 9, two 4 four, 71 two four.
Update: The model S and the model 3/Y all use the same metal frames underneath. I just test drove a '22 Model S. The seat is too hard for me as well. And I am bothered by the bolsters as well. I was surprised how firm the Model S seat really is. I take back my thoughts on springs. It's all about the foam density. I have successfully replaced the foam with a more dense foam from a completely different car make and model. The foam is much, much more dense, but it feels much, much better because it floats the body. I found the Model S, Long Range to have a more rough ride than I expected. All the Tesla cars have kind of a rough ride. To compensate for the rough ride, Tesla engineers should have built seats with more suspension. Since Tesla didn't, I did. For most people wanting a changed seat, this is the solution. I haven't modified a Model S seat as yet. I've been experimenting so very much with Model 3/Y front seats. I bought older Tesla seats and they are thin and flat. I sat in the newer model S and they are similar but a bit wider and perhaps not as "soft" as the Model S/Y but still lacking suspension. I would replace the foam entirely. This is now my revised approach and it works quite well. It's difficult finding which foam works and fits best and it's quite difficult modifying the foam to attach the stock Tesla cover. I can do it now as I've built many seats. I have two of that type in my car now and I've sold two for customers in different states. Let me know if I can help. Sincerely, George Borrelli Crystal River, Florida
@@georgeborrelli3134 Hi I also have issues with my M3P seat but I am in Australia. Can you provide your email as it will be easier to do this over email. Can you send me an entire bottom so i can install? I would need to include the seat pressure sensors and the heat elements.
Thank you so much for all your videos on this. I made a custom seat pad that fills in the wings and massively improves the comfort, but even in a nice black vinyl it doesn't look as good as this. Thank you for helping me get up the nerve to try my own mods. Also you have clearly already solved this problem but I just took out my headrests and turned them around. I do this is almost every rental car and in most cars - including my model 3 it looks great and no over notices that they arent standard.
Please give me a like and subscribe. Thank you!
Thanks for posting this. Great visual guide for seat removal. Like you, I'm not happy with The seat on my 2022 long range M3. I'm sure its going to take a little experimentation but I'm going a different route to modify it from underneath the foam to hopefully keep the top surface as close to stock looking as possible
For a limited few raising the seat bottom alone can help a bit.
But for most it’s not enough.
Furthermore you won’t get the floating suspension of replacing the entire foam.
Be careful not to disconnect the sensor for person in seat.
Even for such a small change it’s still easier to remove the four floor bolts.
Also, the mod I do looks stock to all but the very informed and discerning.
I put the stock Tesla cover on
Very interesting watch. Cool to see what kind of work goes into this kind of mod.
Thanks. Please subscribe and like, it will help me a lot.
Corrections, I learned over the year of doing many, many seats. You do not need to cut anything to remove the cover. It's all snaps and velcro.
I DO NOT make them like this anymore!!!!!!!
I completely replace the foam with a foam from a completely different car with better seats. Then I cut the grooves and secure by sewing. It looks like stock.
What bottom seats are you recommending?
Thank you for this video. I too have the same problem. The side bolsters dig into my hips and makes driving uncomfortable. After having my MYP for a year, I was hoping the bolsters would soften or flatten to my hip shape. Unfortunately, the seats are just as uncomfortable as day1. I am interested in your service. I have to find a spare white seat pan to send.
The white is the color of the cover, it makes little difference to the modification. I won't be changing the cover. But I don't have a spare white cover here. If you wanted me to build the entire bottom up, I'd need to buy 2 seat cushions and at least one needs to be white. I'd ship to you for the swap. Or you'd ship me yours and I'd buy one spare and build it up and ship back for your installation. The process is to pull the seat bottom out of the car. And swap with a rebuilt seat bottom. I modify the seat bottom by using two spare seat bottoms. I cut the wings off one and place it "inside" the other. The two go back inside the seat cover. Then the assembly goes back into the car. If you are handy, I can help with removal of the seat bottom. The reason that it doesn't flatten is because it cannot. The wings cover the metal base underneath and it rises where the wings are. Keep in mind that I learned even more since making this particular video. Additionally, if you have pinched nerves in your lower back, that can contribute and we need to ensure your seating posture is also good. But I like the final mod and I won't go back to the stock seat with those darned wings! Please text me if you want more help with this. I'm at (Sev en - One- 9)-2fourfour-SevenOneTwo4. I am located in Florida. Sincerely, George
I am just finishing up a pair of seats for another customer. Contact me if you still want help.
I could buy a white seat and make a new seat for you here. When you get it, just swap. Just call or text me. SevenOneNiner-244-SevenOneTwo4
Let me know if you'd like me to build a custom seat for you. I've learned a great deal and I'm on my finest builds now.
George Borrelli
Crystal River, Florida
sven one Nine -244 - sven one 24
@@georgeborrelli3134 I am interested in purchasing one of your replacement seat bottoms. What are your prices for a new seat?
Thanks for the video, George. I just picked up my Model Y Performance and have the same issue, although my passenger seat is extremely comfortable. Through your Trial & Error, do you think it would be feasible to swap the bottom seats of the driver side and passenger side seats?
From a comfort perspective, they should be identical. I'd be surprised to see any advantage.
But if you pursue, they are wired differently.
You'd have to swap sensors.
The passenger seat sensor is more sophisticated and It must stay on that side .
I think it could be done though.
I just can't understand how it could help.
Matthew I just got a a spare right side seat pan. I studied the differences. There is a difference that you might possibly feel but it is subtle. The sensor is essentially a large double piece of plastic in a several inches rectangle which sits on top of the metal spring of the metal pan and below the seat cushion pad. That would move you up just slightly and that might reduce pressure from the wings just a tad. If you wish to emulate that on the driver's side, what I'd do is insert a spacer underneath the cushion on top of the metal spring. You have to do this carefully so not to disconnect the wire/ connector to the driver's sensor which is glued to the top of the cushion, underneath the leather top. If you want more help, email me. george.s.borrelli (use the at sign) gmail.com
And another consideration. The new Model 3/Y no longer has lumbar support in the passenger seat. This could be a factor for you.
I finally modified my passenger seat. The main difference from driver's side to passenger side is the pressure sensor pad. The one on the passenger side is quite large in surface are and is mounted on top of the spring, below the foam of the seat bottom. This has the effect of moving the seat cushion up and reducing the spring action downwards. The one on the driver's side is very flexible and quite small and mounted on top of the foam, having no impact upon the springs or seat height. If all you need is that little of a change, I'd suggest putting an equivalent flat piece of material underneath the driver's seat. Try to emulate what's going on in your passenger seat. You'll have to be careful with the routing of the seat pressure sensor wire which is routed through the springs, roughly centered from the top of the foam, through a hole in the foam. That sensor on the driver's side is glued to the top center of the seat bottom foam. For your driver's side mod, I'd try something moderately stiff and about 1/8 to 1/2 " thick. A suggestion is that you get some thick cardboard and layer it. Cut it to roughly cover all the springs over the open space. Use that to test the idea. When the seat foam is lifted, it brings your bottom further up out of the metal frame. It's the metal frame that's the issue. When lifted you're likely to feel the wings (actually the metal frame) less. The foam on driver and passenger's side are the same and would make no difference in a swap.
Hi George. I have the same problem with my model Y. Any chance you can help me?
Yes I can. Two ways to reach me. Seben (6+1)-19-2fourfour-SebenOneTwoFour or george dot s dot b(sounds like oh)rrell(sounds like eye) at gmail dot com
From there we can discover what you are suffering and what might help you. I am home today if you have time to reach out.
Hello. Do I need to turn off the car's power before removing the seat?
You can easily turn off the power on the display screen. It will come back on at the touch of your brake. Your choice, and it is recommended, and quite easy. I didn't do it. I've turned off the power only for a couple of mods that I've made. I found it to be a little bit of hassle with the seats, since I have to move them quite a bit (all the way forward, all the way back, the seat back all the way back and all the way forward) during a seat bottom removal and replacement and for head rest removal and replacement. It's up to you, it's your risk. I guess there's some chance something could go wrong with the seat pressure sensor and the car's computer, when you unplug and plug and put weight on and off. I'd speculate there shouldn't be a problem with the seat heater connector(s). Maybe turn off power when doing work with the electrical connectors would be advised. I hope this helps some.
I've seen people disconnecting the low voltage 12v battery, there's an entire procedure for that process. I don't mess with the upper seat back where the air bag is located. I simply shut off power at the display when I'm concerned, and that's not very often. Always use caution if you mess with something related to air bags.
I have observed the factory seat heating elements are close to the seat cover surface. it seems you are covering the heating elements with more insulation. what are you telling folks about the effect on seat heating and higher heating element temperatures?
I put nothing between the heater elements and the person. That’s totally unchanged.
I installed replacement foam below.
It’s where the stock foam goes just like the stock foam, and some below that.
There’s no impact to seat heat.
Hello, I have same problem, thks for the vedio, can you do one same as yours? How can I contact you? Thks
You can text or call me. (6+1)19_244-(6+1)0neTwoFour
Since you’ve had the seat out, how easy would it be to take out and reposition the seat rails farther back ?
I’m not tall (5’6’’) but would like to be able to use my MacBook from the drivers seat, E.g. while charging or at a customer site … Tesla M3 seats don’t go back far enough … drove my brother’s Hyundai Ioniq 5 recently and the driver’s seat goes a long way back and I could work easily from the car.
I have done that before in Classic Vintage Cadillac cars. I made a plate adapter and moved the rails connection point back. The Tesla Model 3 (and likely all other models) has a rather substantial location "Pin(s)" on the bottom of the rails, towards the front, middle and rear, near the floor bolts. The old GM cars didn't have a "location pin" at all. That pin likely serves multiple purposes. One is to prevent sheer forces from moving the rails forward or backwards in collision, should the bolts sheer. These pins would be difficult to get around. I personally wouldn't want to cut it off, nor drill a hole further back in the car floor. There may be other ways to do this that I haven't worked out in my mind as yet. Although I'm tall, I'm tall mostly in my upper body. I'm sort of "normal" length in the legs. But in most cars I'd like the option to stretch my legs out fully on longer drives. I plan to pull my seat off again soon to experiment with another modification. I'll look at the rail configuration and see if there's any other ideas I can come up with. I have not yet pulled the rails out of the car. I just unbolt them from the floor and just rock the entire assembly in place, while removing and installing the seat cushion changes. It definitely can be done, moving the rails to another location, the question is how much work you want to do and do you want to weaken the connection to the floor in any way. I'm certain if you got another set of rails on Ebay or elsewhere, you could cut off the "pin" and install it in another location. you could also drill the bolt holes in the rails in other locations. That might be the best design. But you'd need the ability or know someone who can do the welding for you. An option, not recommended, but easier is to: Cut off the 2 pins plus a metal piece off each rail, with a cutoff wheel. Then drill holes in the new location. That might get you an inch pretty easily. To go further, you'd need a steel plate as an adapter. Bolt the rails to the plate where you want the new location, and bolt the plate to the floor. I don't know if a change to the motor/drive interface is possible. It would certainly be difficult. If I were going to play with such a change, I'd purchase a used set of rails to experiment with first. Best of luck. Let me know if you have additional ideas or questions or you proceed. I'd like to know your selected approach.
After some examination and thinking.
The best approach might be to buy a salvage seat rail system. Then remove the bottom rails. Spot weld the rails from your car on top of it. It would raise the seat system about an inch but you'd be able to bolt to the floor properly.
I just obtained a spare seat rail system. I can take pictures and investigate further if you want. Just email me at george.s.borrelli (use the at sign here) gmail.com
I found a way to get a full inch and a quarter more back.
It involves removing the base and removing screws and relocating the rails back.
It will lose that much forward as well as gaining it rearwards.
Send me an email if interested.
george.s.borrelli (use at sign here) gmail.com
I found a way to get 2 3/4".
It requires expanding an existing hole.
Again, email me to discuss.
How do you prevent air bags going off when removing the seat?
I don't remove the entire seat. I haven't touched the upper seat where the air bag is. I'm only working with the seat lower or bottom. There's no air bag in the bottom. Also to be safe, shut off power when disconnecting and connecting wires.
How do you unplug the cables!?!?!?!
Unbolt the metal base from the floor.
Rock the seat assembly back. Now you have full access to the underneath.
The Tesla model 3/Y has two connectors on the driver's side for the seat bottom.
The larger gray is towards the cars center console in the rear. Trace to make sure it goes into the back of the seat bottom. There's a push tab release. The gray is the seat bottom heater.
There's a tiny black connector on a clip hanging to the white plastic. It is more centered underneath.
That's the seat sensor.
Most models just pull apart. Some click together.
This is all the wires for driver's side seat bottom.
Don't tug on wires. Hold both sides out the connector when pulling apart.
I hate my shitty Tesla seats, hope i can trim the foam down
Be careful.
Underneath the base seat wings is metal.
You'll feel that.
I had to leave the existing seat bottom foam as-is and then insert filler in the lower portion to flatten it out. It does raise the seat some, to the level of the wings. You can't just cut down the wings because the metal frame is underneath and that would then stick out. I finally inserted an actual OEM seat cushion into the lower part of the seat cushion foam, it had all the grooves and attachment points for the cover to be secured down into. I did cut/ modify that added foam to make the finish product flattened.
@@georgeborrelli3134 The seats have finally broken in enough that sitting on the bolster doesn't cause pain. But I still think it's a ridiculous design, any other car the seat bottom is what you sit on, and the bolster wraps around the side of your legs. I raised the seat maybe 1-2" using the electronic controls, leaned the seat back more vertically, and the final key to the puzzle for me was to put 1" thick closed cell foam under the factory floor mats, which raises the recessed area of the floor so it is one continuous plane. I have all weather mats put directly on top of the factory mats, and the foam/stockfloormat combo doesn't slide around or cause issues. The result is a MUCH more familiar sitting position with my heel raised up a bit, and my foot is not forced to be bent at a 90 degree angle, but rather 45 to 60 degrees. The deep footwell used to cause the area behind my knee to become painful, because my femur was resting directly on the edge of the seat. The foam I used is polyethylene I think, it does not compress over time. So far pretty happy with the changes and now I am not fooling with a seat pad any longer.
@@chatch15117 Chris,
Thank you for the explanation and details.
I'm surprised that the bolster has broken down enough to work. Underneath those bolsters is metal. But if it works, good!
I agree it's a ridiculous design, unless you are narrow and smaller.
There's only 11” width in there and I'm 12+” anyway. Additionally, being of a slightly larger size overall than the norm, my legs are probably wider/thicker and the bolster bothered me most of the length, until I got rid of it entirely.
Your work is interesting to me:
“1" thick closed cell foam under the factory floor mats, which raises the recessed area of the floor so it is one continuous plane.”
I didn't think there was much of a recessed area. But after reading your comment, I just checked and the only “recessed area” is nearly underneath the pedals, real close. I think they intend for the heels of the shoes to go there? That would cause your 90 degree foot position. Wow.
I think that I understand your meaning. I will go out to the car and experiment with the floor.
I'll try putting something there and see what it's like to drive that way.
Where did you get the closed cell foam?
Thank you for your comments and that additional idea/change.
@@georgeborrelli3134 I got the foam from packing materials I saved, it was specifically included with "Naish Thrust Windsurf" wing and mast combo. But you should be able to shop for some 1" (or 25mm) thick closed cell PE foam on Amazon. It is constructed of 5mm thick sheets of the foam stuck together in layers to get to 1in/25mm thickness. So if you can't find supply, look for a roll of the 5mm thick kind, cut it into rectangles and use some Loctite spray adhesive to stick your layers together. Then trim it in the car to fit around the dead pedal. My wife never had a problem with the seats, but after I raised the floor near the pedals so it is level with the rest of the floor, she says it is much better than before and prefers the floor boosted up a bit.
George, thanks for the video. I just received my Model S Plaid a month ago and the seat bottom where my butt goes is too stiff. I took it to an upholstery shop and he removed the original cushion and put in two half inch memory foam pieces and didn't put the clips back on the seat so I can sink into it. However, I don't think he put enough memory foam in. I feel like he should of put in 2 inch thick memory foam. I have this done to my other cars and it worked well but the shop I used a few years ago stopped doing it. I don't have an issue with the side bolsters, its just the seat bottom is too firm and puts pressure on my lower back. Any suggestions?
That is likely the springs and not so much the foam.
Well, I'm revising that statement. It's both.
I've seen in a car that I'm very comfortable sitting in, where the stock foam is HUGE. I love that seat! And it has similar springs to the Tesla's.
So, you can make up for lack of springs, with foam. But I recommend stock seat foam and not memory foam. I also recommend as thick as you can. Suggest double the stock thickness but using entirely factory-type foam.
The foam does play a role. How much? Devil in the details. Read on....
The springs are a very stiff affair.
They are horizontally mounted zigzag type.
I am currently experimenting with alternative springs that I'm building from stock.
This will take time and iterations.
It gets complicated because, should the seat springs give more, the foam may accommodate differently than stock configuration.
And it depends upon the person.
If you fit well inside the bolster sides, then sinking more shouldn't be as big an issue.
On the matter of foam.
Foam is more complex than I initially thought.
Now that I've been playing around with seat changes, I've learned a lot!
Foam comes in many different levels of “give” or “squishiness” LOL.
If the foam is too compressible, you won't get what you are looking for. The foam won't do any real "suspension".
It just compresses and basically stays there.
You are asking a lot of a few inches of foam to handle genuine sinking or suspension!
I think of foam as handling conforming and not “sinking”
Sinking is the job of the suspension. In this case the springs. But as I stated up front, you can get the equivalent using a thick layer of stock foam.
I think of memory foam as some of the most compressible of foams. Therefore the memory foam should be used as a “topper” only. The foam doing the largest part of the work, and a bit of the suspension, has to be MUCH thicker and quite a bit LESS compressible.
If you can experiment with different foams. I would put a layer of fairly robust foam and then a layer of softer foam on top. I would also try softer springs. And possibly focus upon the springs, if someone has the capability and you can afford such custom work.
An approach that I'm using now is to essentially double up the stock foam. That foam is the right compression resistance, but there simply isn't enough of it. I'm doing some detailed examination, comparing the Tesla foam to other car. The other car has very similar metal base and spring designs, but the foams are radically different. The car I find very comfortable for many, many hours has a foam that might be double in thickness over the Tesla. The difficulty then is how to fit the stock cover on such a thick foam. I've been custom cutting the foams to get them to fit and then adding a spacer underneath so the top can attach in the back, underneath.
Another possibility is to make the foam as thick as you like and replace the stock seat covers with after market covers that you may be able to modify to fit the bigger foam inside of.
What's going to matter is your body weight and how you sit in the seat.
By using different seating positions, you will put more or less weight into the seat where it compresses. For example, more weight in the thighs, less sinking in the seat bones. More weight on the floor via feet, less weight in the seat as a whole. Also if you lean back, the back will take a small percentage of your body weight.
This video may be helpful as well.
I just made this today!
ruclips.net/video/JHjnO9jUUsY/видео.html
Then check out this video!!!
ruclips.net/video/mrkSnZCf1Bk/видео.html
When you say the seat puts more pressure on your lower back.
Do you mean when the car bottoms on the road and your weight goes down into the seat, the bottom is too stiff and your back compresses? If you have back issues such as disc issues, these are difficult to work through.
When we get into back...
Then we should address overall body posture, head rest and head positioning, lordosis or lumbar support, etc.
I can relate!
If you wish to contact me, call me. Text if you wish.
I'm at Seven One 9, two 4 four, 71 two four.
Update: The model S and the model 3/Y all use the same metal frames underneath. I just test drove a '22 Model S. The seat is too hard for me as well. And I am bothered by the bolsters as well. I was surprised how firm the Model S seat really is. I take back my thoughts on springs. It's all about the foam density. I have successfully replaced the foam with a more dense foam from a completely different car make and model. The foam is much, much more dense, but it feels much, much better because it floats the body. I found the Model S, Long Range to have a more rough ride than I expected. All the Tesla cars have kind of a rough ride. To compensate for the rough ride, Tesla engineers should have built seats with more suspension. Since Tesla didn't, I did. For most people wanting a changed seat, this is the solution. I haven't modified a Model S seat as yet. I've been experimenting so very much with Model 3/Y front seats. I bought older Tesla seats and they are thin and flat. I sat in the newer model S and they are similar but a bit wider and perhaps not as "soft" as the Model S/Y but still lacking suspension. I would replace the foam entirely. This is now my revised approach and it works quite well. It's difficult finding which foam works and fits best and it's quite difficult modifying the foam to attach the stock Tesla cover. I can do it now as I've built many seats. I have two of that type in my car now and I've sold two for customers in different states. Let me know if I can help.
Sincerely,
George Borrelli
Crystal River, Florida
Are you selling these modified seat bottoms?
Contact me by text or call.
Seven one 9
Two 44
Seven 124
@@georgeborrelli3134 Hi I also have issues with my M3P seat but I am in Australia. Can you provide your email as it will be easier to do this over email. Can you send me an entire bottom so i can install? I would need to include the seat pressure sensors and the heat elements.
georgeDOTsDOTbo(double"r”)e(double”l”)i(at)gmailDOTcom