Do you mean pull the bottom cushion out of the car? Or do you mean remove the faux leather cover from the foam core? or both? Do you have a white seat? If you watch the video, starting at this point, minute marker 7:16, you get a really good idea of how the seat is mounted and it shows how to reinstall the seat bottom into the car. ruclips.net/video/JHjnO9jUUsY/видео.htmlsi=JlqXx3iFO5uuxMAu&t=436
thanks. any tips on removing and putting on the cushing while the seat is installed inside the car? i .e. theres very little space to work with on the centre console side of the seat. some people suggested inserting a thin and long screw driver?
First, I highly recommend removal of the four torques bolts holding the seat rails. I think they are T-45. It will save you a ton of time, pain, aggravation and scraped knuckles. It will allow you to move the entire seat system away from the center console, giving ample room. Also it allows you to rock the seat, really helps a lot with access underneath for connectors and front and back cover clips Whether or not you decide to remove them, and I don't know why you wouldn't. You leave the seat in the car. But the 4 floor bolts out allows you to rock the seat for access underneath the seat while the seat is in the car. To remove the seat: I would then remove the cushion cover in specific order to make it easier. 1. Remove the back of the cover holds. These hold downs are underneath. It is possible to find and pull them off without tools. Much, much much easier if the floor bolts are removed and you rock it forwards. I put it up on something to hold it up to give me the work space. With a good flashlight find the ends of the materials. There are two plastic "hooks" that are hooked on the the springs. 2. Remove the front of the cover holds. If you have a slim flat screwdriver, it might be easier. But I generally find they come off simply by rotating the bottom of the plastic hold on downwards and rocking forwards. Working from one end to the other, it should rotate off, usually starting at one end and working to the other end. 3. Remove the torques screw securing the plastic side panel. You must adjust the seat to get access. I found moving the seat forward and the rear upwards, for some strange reason, opens it up for access. 4. Optionally pop out the clip by pulling the side panel towards the back half. 5. Remove the cover side holds, starting with the outside which has best access. If you need to, a skinny flat end screwdriver inserted from the front of the seat, into the groove of the plastic hold, and lever the screwdriver on a nearby metal. The plastic should begin to lift off. (of course it's going down direction). 6. Finally remove the inside cover side hold. If you removed the four main bolts to the floor, access is easy. You should not need a screwdriver assist on this last one because the seat cover should be quite loose now. To put the seat back on, reverse the order. Again I recommend removal of the 4 floor bolts so you can rock the seat for access. Putting the seat on, there's no tools required and a screwdriver doesn't really help. 1. Place the seat cushion on top of the metal frame. Position it. 2. Connect the far side, side clip. It rolls to the inside and upside down. Press on the seat to squish or simply raise the cushion to give slack to that side. Press the clip in all the way down with fingers. 2. Connect the outside, side clip. 3. Connect the front clip. 4. Connect the two clips underneath the back to the springs underneath NOTE: there are two connectors that MUST be connected and secure OEM style. Driver's side: One connector is larger, that's for the heated seat. The other is critical, and is the seat weight in seat sensor. It's a tiny connector. It MUST be secured properly in a clip. If this connector gets loose, you will have car operational problems. On the passenger side there are different and additional connectors. The seat sensor should not have been removed as it's attached to the top of the springs. If you have questions, text or call me. Seven one niner - 2 fourFour - seven 1 two four. Sincerely, George
Hi George - we are considering buy a Tesla model 3 but my husband is experiencing the same issue with the seats. We would like to contact you to see if you could modify seats for us. What is the best way to contact you? Thanks so much!
do you think it would be possible to double up the metal springs in the base and flare out the side of the metal base slightly? i need to modify my seats due to the narrow width of the model 3 seat base, I had to do similar to an E-class merc as the springs were soft and drooped when under load
Good idea. I had bought extra bases 2 years ago to investigate that very thing. The short answer is "no". The springs are not drooping too much, they are very hard. I bought metal to make springs but I gave the entire metal rework up. I then thought of flaring out the sides as you also suggest. The sides are an integral part of the strength and also integrated into the upper / back. It would be major metal surgery. Additionally there's no room between the seat and the center console to fit even the smallest increase in width. I found that I got everything that I needed by working with foams instead. Foam is much easier and cheaper to work with. The foams I use provide ample suspension and support. One other advantage is that it's very easy to return to stock in case of sale or a very different driver. The real challenges come to very tall or very wide drivers. In the case of the Model Y and Model X the seats are raised up on platforms. For those guys, we'd have to cut the metal platforms down. That's possible but most of them sell the car instead. The Model 3 and Model S have more headroom to work with. Thank you for your suggestion. And I'm impressed at teh work you did on your E-Class.
I am so sad. This is exactly the reason I decided not to buy Tesla. I tested the car 3 times because I really wanted it but just because of this problem I am going to buy another car.
I don't blame you at all. For many, they will not fit in the car when extra foam is added. For them, they should not buy the Model Y or X, definitely. Both those cars actually have LESS headroom. And depending upon their size, they might not work in the Model 3 either. The older Model S might work for some, up to a point. The older, pre 2017 refresh, Model S has entirely different seat design. Good luck.
Could you do a video on how to remove the seat cushion? With all steps and reinstallation? I need to clean mine since coffee spilled.
Do you mean pull the bottom cushion out of the car? Or do you mean remove the faux leather cover from the foam core? or both? Do you have a white seat?
If you watch the video, starting at this point, minute marker 7:16, you get a really good idea of how the seat is mounted and it shows how to reinstall the seat bottom into the car.
ruclips.net/video/JHjnO9jUUsY/видео.htmlsi=JlqXx3iFO5uuxMAu&t=436
thanks. any tips on removing and putting on the cushing while the seat is installed inside the car? i .e. theres very little space to work with on the centre console side of the seat. some people suggested inserting a thin and long screw driver?
First, I highly recommend removal of the four torques bolts holding the seat rails. I think they are T-45. It will save you a ton of time, pain, aggravation and scraped knuckles. It will allow you to move the entire seat system away from the center console, giving ample room. Also it allows you to rock the seat, really helps a lot with access underneath for connectors and front and back cover clips
Whether or not you decide to remove them, and I don't know why you wouldn't. You leave the seat in the car. But the 4 floor bolts out allows you to rock the seat for access underneath the seat while the seat is in the car.
To remove the seat:
I would then remove the cushion cover in specific order to make it easier.
1. Remove the back of the cover holds. These hold downs are underneath. It is possible to find and pull them off without tools. Much, much much easier if the floor bolts are removed and you rock it forwards. I put it up on something to hold it up to give me the work space.
With a good flashlight find the ends of the materials. There are two plastic "hooks" that are hooked on the the springs.
2. Remove the front of the cover holds. If you have a slim flat screwdriver, it might be easier. But I generally find they come off simply by rotating the bottom of the plastic hold on downwards and rocking forwards. Working from one end to the other, it should rotate off, usually starting at one end and working to the other end.
3. Remove the torques screw securing the plastic side panel. You must adjust the seat to get access. I found moving the seat forward and the rear upwards, for some strange reason, opens it up for access.
4. Optionally pop out the clip by pulling the side panel towards the back half.
5. Remove the cover side holds, starting with the outside which has best access. If you need to, a skinny flat end screwdriver inserted from the front of the seat, into the groove of the plastic hold, and lever the screwdriver on a nearby metal. The plastic should begin to lift off. (of course it's going down direction).
6. Finally remove the inside cover side hold. If you removed the four main bolts to the floor, access is easy. You should not need a screwdriver assist on this last one because the seat cover should be quite loose now.
To put the seat back on, reverse the order.
Again I recommend removal of the 4 floor bolts so you can rock the seat for access.
Putting the seat on, there's no tools required and a screwdriver doesn't really help.
1. Place the seat cushion on top of the metal frame. Position it.
2. Connect the far side, side clip. It rolls to the inside and upside down. Press on the seat to squish or simply raise the cushion to give slack to that side. Press the clip in all the way down with fingers.
2. Connect the outside, side clip.
3. Connect the front clip.
4. Connect the two clips underneath the back to the springs underneath
NOTE: there are two connectors that MUST be connected and secure OEM style.
Driver's side:
One connector is larger, that's for the heated seat.
The other is critical, and is the seat weight in seat sensor. It's a tiny connector.
It MUST be secured properly in a clip. If this connector gets loose, you will have car operational problems.
On the passenger side there are different and additional connectors. The seat sensor should not have been removed as it's attached to the top of the springs.
If you have questions, text or call me.
Seven one niner - 2 fourFour - seven 1 two four.
Sincerely,
George
@@georgeborrelli3134 thanks appreciate it.
Hi George - we are considering buy a Tesla model 3 but my husband is experiencing the same issue with the seats. We would like to contact you to see if you could modify seats for us. What is the best way to contact you? Thanks so much!
Call or text
Seben ( number after six) 19 two 44 Seben one 24
do you think it would be possible to double up the metal springs in the base and flare out the side of the metal base slightly? i need to modify my seats due to the narrow width of the model 3 seat base, I had to do similar to an E-class merc as the springs were soft and drooped when under load
Good idea. I had bought extra bases 2 years ago to investigate that very thing. The short answer is "no". The springs are not drooping too much, they are very hard. I bought metal to make springs but I gave the entire metal rework up. I then thought of flaring out the sides as you also suggest. The sides are an integral part of the strength and also integrated into the upper / back. It would be major metal surgery. Additionally there's no room between the seat and the center console to fit even the smallest increase in width. I found that I got everything that I needed by working with foams instead. Foam is much easier and cheaper to work with. The foams I use provide ample suspension and support. One other advantage is that it's very easy to return to stock in case of sale or a very different driver. The real challenges come to very tall or very wide drivers. In the case of the Model Y and Model X the seats are raised up on platforms. For those guys, we'd have to cut the metal platforms down. That's possible but most of them sell the car instead. The Model 3 and Model S have more headroom to work with. Thank you for your suggestion. And I'm impressed at teh work you did on your E-Class.
Where are you located ? Would you take on other ppls cate for a price ? I hate the wings
Text me.
Seben 1 Nine Too Four 4 Seven 1 Two Four.
I am so sad. This is exactly the reason I decided not to buy Tesla. I tested the car 3 times because I really wanted it but just because of this problem I am going to buy another car.
I don't blame you at all. For many, they will not fit in the car when extra foam is added. For them, they should not buy the Model Y or X, definitely. Both those cars actually have LESS headroom. And depending upon their size, they might not work in the Model 3 either. The older Model S might work for some, up to a point. The older, pre 2017 refresh, Model S has entirely different seat design. Good luck.