Click here for an impact driver---- amzn.to/2xbygiI Click here for a digital tachometer--- amzn.to/2p3MpL5 Click here for my website--- www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ Click here for my Parts and Tools Store---- www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
This helped me fix my Toro! At one point it was at such high RPM’s that the damn mower was at a jogging pace. Cut my grass in record time. Even the neighbors came out and clapped as I made my last pass. But now, thanks to this, no more runaway mower.
Hey Steve, thanks for taking your time to teach us about small motors, I have learned many things that help me do work on my own and friends, thank you
Mad respect to you Steve. You destroyed a Honda engine to prove an important point even the stubborn knuckle heads couldn't argue. I was always curious as to how much an engine will take without a governor. A great lesson learned. Thank you.
Great video 👍 I took off a 6.5 horse I'replaced it with a Honda GX 390 13 horse on a go-kart, The governor is removed but I also have a rev limiter hooked up at 4000 RPM the norm is 3200 RPM. I don't go over 4000 RPM. And I don't hold it constantly. It only gives me better climbing dirt hills and take off. That's the difference of holding it constantly 2 only using what is needed in between
Thanks for the informational video Steve, this just shows how critical the governor is on a small engine, it prevents the engine from over revving. I have an 18HP opposed twin Briggs that has a thrown rod on one side because the guy messed with the governor and didn't know what he was doing and ran it that way at very high rpms.
I don't understand why they would do that. These engines use fixed ignition timing, and running them higher than rated speed causes a huge reduction in torque, which actually lowers the available horsepower, unless there's some way to advance the ignition timing. That's difficult, because there is a very small window where the magnet in the flywheel passes the magneto armature, and, the points(if equipped) are opened by a cam on the crank shaft. the only thing you can do with the points, is set the gap a little wider, which opens them just a few degrees sooner. Changing ignition timing on small engines is a tricky thing to do.
That is one tough engine.My Briggs lawnmower runs at 3100 rpms and sounds like it going to explode and that is way under what the manual reads. i have the exact impact drill and love it . Thanks for another amazing video you are number one
Bricks & Scrap Iron engines are trash compared to Honda. Plastic carburetors, rattling noises (even when new), bad design of the compression release, the list goes on and on...
I'm not sure a flat head (side valve) Briggs & Stratton would turn that fast. They just don't have the volumetric efficiency of this overhead valve engine.
I know this is an old video, but I wish I had seen this about a year ago. I destroyed a free Honda in about 5 minutes by adjusting the governor wrong. It seized up and lost all compression. Its a shame because it was a great little self propelled mower. Thanks for the detailed and informative videos.
Yup. About 15 years I tried to reset the idle speed on a Deere push mower by ear and overdid it and seized up the engine too, and that was that. Steve's right: get the $20 digital tachometer and make sure you're in the right range if you're going to adjust idle speed.
In another video a couple of young men took an old truck that was powered by a Detroit 8V71 and the disabled the governor and tied the rack in full fuel position so that engine would run away and blow up. I appreciated that you purposely set the governor on this engine wrong, let it run away and blow up and then afterwards you tore the engine down and showed what happened as to what happened as a lesson as to why you want to set the governor properly. That was very interesting as well as amazing. What can be seen as that the major moving parts were only able to handle so much before the serious and catastrophic failure occurred.
Pretty cool Steve, pretty much what we all want to avoid. I took you advice on winterizing for all my motors. Stabil is the way to go to prevent tearing down carbs all the time and fuel pumps. Outboard motors too but use 360 marine stabil every fill up and fill the tanks with stabil before storing to prevent moisture in the tanks
Steve's Small Engine Saloon right now i’m mounting a side shaft engjne that i found and fixed from the dump to a lawn mower with the ez walk and making a somewhat go cart
Rather impressive that it lasted as long as it did. I've had a few 5 HP and larger B&S engines loose the throttle linkages or just stick wide open over the years and none of them made it 30 seconds before they flew apart. The only ones I have ever had stay together were the small 3 - 3.5 HP engines.
Enjoy your your show and it's what I needed I found like two or three of these machines on the side of the road Hondas and my brother accidentally hit something big in the yard instead of checking the yard and just messed up the shaft on it and the one I found off the lot off the road picked it up and put it on his other machine and the other machine to the motor sitting in the yard but the governor I'm having trouble with this I thought it was carburetor and everything...
Steve your absolutely right. I learned the hard way long time ago. I didn’t blow it up it just overreveved it. It would have blown if didn’t fix the governor.,
This is great! I have the same engine. I was really hoping that the plastic parts would fail before any damage to the metal parts. Wouldn't that have been good!
People don’t realize that stress on reciprocating parts increases as the square of the RPM, not in proportion to it. Doubling the RPM will quadruple the amount of stress, not double it (2x2=4, lol)
Steve, I need your help. I just did some restoration on an older Honda GCV 160 push mower engine which had sat up for more than a year. While disassembling some of parts for cleaning, I made an unwise attempt at removing the external metal elbow shaped governor arm from the spindle that protrudes out of the engine. In the process, I moved the elbow part back and forth a considerable distance while it was still mounted to the shaft. I believe that excessive motion likely put the internal governor parts into a wrong position inside the engine. Long story short, I didn't get the elbow arm off so I just gave up and tried to reset the governor in the correct manner. But I could no longer hear any faint tick of the governor and plus the spindle would not budge. I tightened the bolt back up and left it that way. Once I got all the other engine work done and fired up the engine, it was running at excessively high speed. I managed to get the speed a somewhat lower by adjusting the RPM's as you show in your video but I still think it is running too high. When Honda computes their test specs for this engine they run it at 3,600 RPM but the normal speed is supposed to stay lower at about 3,100 RPM max for longer engine life and safer operation. I don' have a tack but based on sound alone it is probably running a few hundred RPM over the normal operating limit. It cuts grass just fine but I want to get the governor set back to the right setting to keep my engine from blowing up like the one in this video!! Is it possible to reset the governor if it is now "backwards" or in some other improper position? Will I have to tear the engine down to do that? Is there any other work around that I can do to simply slow the speed down a little, such as maybe a smaller carb jet? Any advice (or a video) would be greatly appreciated.
There is a video on how to set the governor. Loosen the bolt, turn the spindle that goes inside the engine clockwise with some needle nose while looking at it, tighten bolt on governor arm. You dont really adjust it other than just setting it all way to the clockwise side.
Us go kart guys remove the governor completely and let em eat rpm with bigger jets and a race pipe and billet flywheel and they last a long time with the oil and plug changed regularly. Great video now I know I can tune wide open I just gotta keep it under 20 minutes before things go boom !
The connecting rod is the unsung hero of the internal combustion engine! It's like a dog leash trying to hold onto a bull! Except it has to withstand being tugged on and being squished in alternation to the tune of 3000+ times per minute. It's no wonder that it's the first component to give way at breakneck speed.
@@mickgatz214 Cast iron is great because it's hard and strong, plentiful, inexpensive, and it has fairly good machinability, which makes it ideal for making large heavy components that need to last a long time. However, cast iron is far from the strongest or toughest material. It is brittle and has very poor fatigue resistance to cyclical loading, which is primarily the kind of failure that connecting rods are susceptible to. Certain steel alloys can withstand an incredible amount of loading without fatiguing: one of them is 3% chrome molybdenum steel, which can withstand 70k psi without fatiguing. Spring steels can withstand close to 100k psi. Cast iron can only withstand around 25k psi. That means the cast iron connecting rod would have to be extremely beefy to match the fatigue life of these specialty steels, which adds a lot of reciprocating mass to the engine. Clearly this is not optimal.
@@johnbarron4265 . It all boils down to cost, a steel or harder matal conrod would then need shell bearings lined with a softer metal to protect the crankshaft which then adds more cost. These engines are a compromise between operating OK and cost of producing them . Good regular maintenance is the key to getting longevity from any engine. I service a 50 year old B&S engine for a customer, including an annual oil and air filter change and the engine still runs great, no smoking, no starting issues and no loss of power and it runs in a ride- on that cuts a 1.5 acre lawn at least once a week through the season.
Gee Steve that's a flashback from a few years ago when the Tecumseh Snowking's were dominant in the snowblower market and then the trottle linkages froze up! Same result! Ventilated crankcase.
I had a similar thing happen to a rototiller. Where the governor arm connects to the little spindle coming out of the engine from the governor flyweights rattled loose, and lost its grip on the governor arm. It was unable to throttle back the carburetor, and the engine ran too fast. CLANK.......That's all she wrote!!
Okay..w watch the first video on how to adjust the governor. Follow the instructions. But I think that the governor shaft isn't engaged properly. I got the engine started again but then it revved like crazy like you said and then shut off.
What fun. Years ago we had someone not set the fuel rack correctly on a Detroit Diesel 6-41. It went to full throttle and jammed there. We ran out and waited for it to blow. Took about the same amount of time as that Honda.
I used to work at a local business that sold various versions of those honda powered pressure washers. We had a real problem with cheap asses (contractors no less) bending the governor linkages to get them to run at 4000 - 5000 RPM so that they could get their ~2.6 - 3 GPM 2500 PSI pressure washers to put out 3.5 - 4+ GPM and 3000+ PSI then running them that way all summer until they blew the engines or the pumps then bringing them back for coverage under the 1 year warranty.
Hey Steve I’ve watched both videos on governor settings. One video you bend the arm, the other video you loosen the nut and adjust the pin and arm. Which is the correct or best procedure? Thank you
I have the same question. Did you ever get an answer? I bent my governor arm as he showed in his video but it didn't change the rpm's at all... still revving way too high. I'm going to try the other procedure (loosen the nut & adjust pin) and see if it makes a difference. I have a Honda GCV160 on a Karcher Pressure Washer.
Any questions? Read the book if you want to avoid breaking sh1t. Steve, got a Briggs 11 hp, model 252707. Engine has no throttle control. Linkages verified with shop manual, throttle plate is free and secure. Governor set as per Briggs spec. Carb, one piece flojet, is new and I cleaned it prior to install. Initially had a blown head gasket, machined head, adjusted valves per spec. Engine had numerous sump oil leaks so I pulled the sump cover suspecting a broken governor. Governor was good, sealed engine up and she still races, no throttle control. Throttle cable adjusted per spec. Not sure where to go next. Thanks so much!
Bullcrap indeed! I remember getting a briggs V twin from someone at the shop to have for free. Apperantly someone did a diy on it because the moment i started it it ran out of control and before i could even get the key off it broke a rod and shattered the gov. weights all over the crank case. I have it in my garage in a corner as a subtle reminder to go over stuff dropped off on me.
My pressure washer choke has to stay wide open to stay on and the rpm goes high. So I slightly play with the choke and set it in slightly and the rpm’s go down. Gonna try the governor and hope that works
thanks for that Steve, there's a right and wrong way of doing things. as far as the governor goes, set it properly or else, if that engine would've been on a minibike someone would have a very bad day after riding for only 30 minutes. i just got a Honda gc160 for free that doesn't run and i just found out that the camshaft is broken and upon inspection i will need a cam, timing belt and crank seals just in case. thanks for the video Steve catch you on the next one.
Steve great video. I converted my 5kw Honda (GX 390) generator to propane with a kit from (PNG). It consists of a snorkel in the air filter before the carb. When I run it the engine spins at between 3440 -3480 at moderate load. For 60 hz power it should spin at 3600 rpm. I contacted the kit vendor but no response. My instincts tell me to play with the throttle adjustment screw but I see all these other videos about folks playing with the governor. What is your take on this? Reason is, sensitive electronics doesn't like 57 hz and my UPS is constantly chattering on generator power. Other people doing such conversions have to have the same problem but nobody seems to notice it. Would greatly appreciate any comments.
Thing is propane does not produce the power of gas and best to put less load and keep hertz at 60 Remember this if you buy other gen to get higher HP engine
Holy moley! How about I back down the old HRU216 to 4k, do the lawns in 3 minutes and change the oil every month instead? 🤣 I'm amazed how long that motor held on.
Hey Steve,awesome video! I have a gx160 with gear reduction, problem is I need to use the motor on a piece of equipment and need to remove the gear reducer so it will fit,is that ok?Can I just remove the gear box and use the motor as is, thanks a million man.
I couldn't find the top rev information for my Honda gvc190, only idle speed and the speed at which the horsepower was measured. I have set mine at 100 below the point where it is measured at by them but faster than when I bought it. I was told the revs were limited on purchase to meet a sound level setting.
Usually, the horsepower of small engines are rated at 3,600 RPM, unless otherwise noted. They are rated at sea level, at 25°C (77°F) ambient temperature. Keep in mind, the ignition timing is fixed on these engines, so the torque goes down quickly as the RPM goes up. Revving these up often causes a reduction in horsepower, because the torque rolls off more quickly, than the RPM increases. There's no point to overrevving these engines.
Wow that was great. I hope that was the same engine that you ran with no oil and adjusted the valves and ran again. lol Keep them coming Steve. Cheers.
LOL it looked like it broke the crank? you could hear it winding down @ 346 yet the pto side was stopped. Good video man! Love the fact that you showed those armchair mechanics.
My 1/4” impact driver has the same name as your beer . Sometimes it’s good to test the limitations of something to get understanding of things for future reference.👍🍻
Most people who remove the governor aren’t going to run their engine at WOT for 30 minutes. More likely in bursts & then back down to cruising speeds. Its good to know they’re that durable. Wow 😮
Hey steve, I have a troy bilt snow blower that had a broken governor when I bought it. I replaced it twice and both times it exploded. Any ideas? Thanks, Bill grooms.
Just curious as to why it didn't hold up? Lack of lubrication due to high rpm keeping oil from coating the connecting rod? Rod looked scored slightly. Spinning so fast at 5700+ rpm oil slinger can't let oil get to rod bearing surface? Or does it have a pressurized set up?
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I know you say don't adjust the governor the wrong way by mistake. I bet it would hold up just a bit longer with a bullet connection rod? I think it would make a good go-kart engine lol.
Hey Steve love the Chanel got a question for ya, got a stihl 461 that run great but lately cold starts with choke on won’t give that initial pop and will flood from just a couple of pulls is this a carb issue
It may have lasted longer if it was under load. Wouldn't make too much difference though. Actually, the mechanic at the nearby go kart track told me that all karts there have the governor bypassed and have run on full throttle for 24 hours. They had Honda GX270 engines. I didn't believe him. Turns out, I'm right :)
Hey Steve, I have a Honda 2.2hp G100, powering a oil-less/tankless scuba air compressor. The engine has low hrs. How do I boost the HP without increasing the RPM. The engine rpm is restricted to 2350 rpm, because of risk of damaging the pump. It has a poppet type pressure relief valve that is made to vent out excessive air pressure, maintaining a certain pressure to the supply line. The engine kept stalling out from the compressor load, until I set the RPM higher ( which is a no no) I'm thinking the governor should make allowances for the load, maintaining the proper 2350 RPM. Boosting the HP with octane or something is probably the wrong approach, perhaps you have a tip to set up the governor properly, by adjusting the spring or changing it.The engine does not seem to want to "dig-in" under higher load pressure. Any tip would be helpful.. Thx.
Same subject but different area, why do new push mowers that you buy at big box stores not have a throttle adjustment cable like they used to have. Now they run at the same speed all the time. Just curious. Love your videos.
Hi Steve: Just left a recommendation for a carb adjustment for an old Redmax EB430 Leaf Blower... I can't find the RPM specs for this 30 year old blower...Idle/Low/High rev limit... Any info on that ? Love your videos! Ed Koops / San Antonio, TX
I only remove the governor for go karts and when I do I replace the standered parts with billet parts like billet rod and I replace the valve srings and caps with after market ones so it dousent drop a valve. No way I'd run one stock without the govener
Even without the modifications, you're still OK, as long as the engine is LOADED while open throttle. What kills engines, is wide open throttle, with no load! Any load will slow the engine down enough to be safe, as long as you don't sustain over ~4,500 RPM for very long. High RPM prevents the rod throw bearing from maintaining adequate oil between the crank shaft and the rod throw journal. Engines that are designed to run at ~6,000 RPM are pressurized lubricated, which ensures adequate oil in the rod throw bearings.
Steve I have a gx670 Honda repower deere about 400 hours its temperamental on starting or not wanting to. I've replaced all fuel lines and new carburetor and waiting on tank filters. Any pictures on the proper settings please
Click here for an impact driver---- amzn.to/2xbygiI
Click here for a digital tachometer--- amzn.to/2p3MpL5
Click here for my website--- www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
Click here for my Parts and Tools Store---- www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
This helped me fix my Toro! At one point it was at such high RPM’s that the damn mower was at a jogging pace. Cut my grass in record time. Even the neighbors came out and clapped as I made my last pass.
But now, thanks to this, no more runaway mower.
if anything this has proven to me how sturdy these engines are, almost 6k rpm, way beyond it's redline for 30 minutes, that was freaking incredible
I agree!
Hey Steve, thanks for taking your time to teach us about small motors, I have learned many things that help me do work on my own and friends, thank you
You're Welcome...
Steve too bad to ruin a good Honda engine, but it took a while. Just shows you how tough Honda engines are. Thanks for the video
You're Welcome...
Mad respect to you Steve. You destroyed a Honda engine to prove an important point even the stubborn knuckle heads couldn't argue. I was always curious as to how much an engine will take without a governor. A great lesson learned. Thank you.
You're Welcome...
Billet rod and a little JB Weld says she lives to go it again!
Great video 👍 I took off a 6.5 horse I'replaced it with a Honda GX 390 13 horse on a go-kart,
The governor is removed but I also have a rev limiter hooked up at 4000 RPM the norm is 3200 RPM. I don't go over 4000 RPM. And I don't hold it constantly. It only gives me better climbing dirt hills and take off. That's the difference of holding it constantly 2 only using what is needed in between
A testament to how good Honda is at making engines. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, will do!
I'm highly impressed that it lasted 30 minutes and over 5000 rpm's
Me too!
im scared to run my predator at 5000 rpm to run it for more than 20 seconds
Thanks for the informational video Steve, this just shows how critical the governor is on a small engine, it prevents the engine from over revving. I have an 18HP opposed twin Briggs that has a thrown rod on one side because the guy messed with the governor and didn't know what he was doing and ran it that way at very high rpms.
You're Welcome...
I don't understand why they would do that. These engines use fixed ignition timing, and running them higher than rated speed causes a huge reduction in torque, which actually lowers the available horsepower, unless there's some way to advance the ignition timing. That's difficult, because there is a very small window where the magnet in the flywheel passes the magneto armature, and, the points(if equipped) are opened by a cam on the crank shaft. the only thing you can do with the points, is set the gap a little wider, which opens them just a few degrees sooner. Changing ignition timing on small engines is a tricky thing to do.
That is one tough engine.My Briggs lawnmower runs at 3100 rpms and sounds like it going to explode and that is way under what the manual reads. i have the exact impact drill and love it . Thanks for another amazing video you are number one
Thank You...
Bricks & Scrap Iron engines are trash compared to Honda. Plastic carburetors, rattling noises (even when new), bad design of the compression release, the list goes on and on...
I'm not sure a flat head (side valve) Briggs & Stratton would turn that fast. They just don't have the volumetric efficiency of this overhead valve engine.
I know this is an old video, but I wish I had seen this about a year ago. I destroyed a free Honda in about 5 minutes by adjusting the governor wrong. It seized up and lost all compression. Its a shame because it was a great little self propelled mower. Thanks for the detailed and informative videos.
Yup. About 15 years I tried to reset the idle speed on a Deere push mower by ear and overdid it and seized up the engine too, and that was that. Steve's right: get the $20 digital tachometer and make sure you're in the right range if you're going to adjust idle speed.
In another video a couple of young men took an old truck that was powered by a Detroit 8V71 and the disabled the governor and tied the rack in full fuel position so that engine would run away and blow up.
I appreciated that you purposely set the governor on this engine wrong, let it run away and blow up and then afterwards you tore the engine down and showed what happened as to what happened as a lesson as to why you want to set the governor properly. That was very interesting as well as amazing. What can be seen as that the major moving parts were only able to handle so much before the serious and catastrophic failure occurred.
Pretty cool Steve, pretty much what we all want to avoid. I took you advice on winterizing for all my motors. Stabil is the way to go to prevent tearing down carbs all the time and fuel pumps. Outboard motors too but use 360 marine stabil every fill up and fill the tanks with stabil before storing to prevent moisture in the tanks
Right on...
Great video Steve. Always educational and entertaining. I've learned alot from your channel and appreciate your time and knowledge.
Thank You...
Hey Steve, thanks for taking your time to teach us about small engines saved a Honda whipper by watching you work on things ty..
Glad to help
Kinda sad to watch that little Honda die.
It makes me sad tbh to see good engines get fucked
But still its neat to watch
Especially when you're trying to nurse your aging/ worn-out engine through another season.
why did I watching when it finally failed, over and over? haha
@@FOXFIRE_RACING I absolutely agree with you, me as a Honda fan it broke my heart but we do it all for science right?
i’m 15 been screwing around with lawnmowers 4wheelers and just small engines and an impact has made my life so much easier
Right on Buddy...
Steve's Small Engine Saloon right now i’m mounting a side shaft engjne that i found and fixed from the dump to a lawn mower with the ez walk and making a somewhat go cart
You didn't HAVE TO prove the idiots wrong, but it's enjoyable that you did. 😉 I guess now you have a few more spare used parts.
Right on...
Rather impressive that it lasted as long as it did. I've had a few 5 HP and larger B&S engines loose the throttle linkages or just stick wide open over the years and none of them made it 30 seconds before they flew apart.
The only ones I have ever had stay together were the small 3 - 3.5 HP engines.
@@tcmtech7515 those 3.5 are tough
Fitting you used Old Milwaukee. I'm sure it's attributable to many blown engines over the years. Thanks again for the Honda Videos.
You're Welcome...
Enjoy your your show and it's what I needed I found like two or three of these machines on the side of the road Hondas and my brother accidentally hit something big in the yard instead of checking the yard and just messed up the shaft on it and the one I found off the lot off the road picked it up and put it on his other machine and the other machine to the motor sitting in the yard but the governor I'm having trouble with this I thought it was carburetor and everything...
That was WILD! Just shows how well those Hondas are made that it could go so long at double the design MAXIMUM RPM.
Right on John...
Steve your absolutely right. I learned the hard way long time ago. I didn’t blow it up it just overreveved it. It would have blown if didn’t fix the governor.,
Right on...
And that goes to show Honda still makes a really good engine.
AMEN....
I mean an old flathead briggs would run WTFO day in day out but whatever...
This is great! I have the same engine. I was really hoping that the plastic parts would fail before any damage to the metal parts. Wouldn't that have been good!
People don’t realize that stress on reciprocating parts increases as the square of the RPM, not in proportion to it. Doubling the RPM will quadruple the amount of stress, not double it (2x2=4, lol)
Steve, I need your help. I just did some restoration on an older Honda GCV 160 push mower engine which had sat up for more than a year. While disassembling some of parts for cleaning, I made an unwise attempt at removing the external metal elbow shaped governor arm from the spindle that protrudes out of the engine. In the process, I moved the elbow part back and forth a considerable distance while it was still mounted to the shaft. I believe that excessive motion likely put the internal governor parts into a wrong position inside the engine.
Long story short, I didn't get the elbow arm off so I just gave up and tried to reset the governor in the correct manner. But I could no longer hear any faint tick of the governor and plus the spindle would not budge. I tightened the bolt back up and left it that way.
Once I got all the other engine work done and fired up the engine, it was running at excessively high speed. I managed to get the speed a somewhat lower by adjusting the RPM's as you show in your video but I still think it is running too high. When Honda computes their test specs for this engine they run it at 3,600 RPM but the normal speed is supposed to stay lower at about 3,100 RPM max for longer engine life and safer operation. I don' have a tack but based on sound alone it is probably running a few hundred RPM over the normal operating limit. It cuts grass just fine but I want to get the governor set back to the right setting to keep my engine from blowing up like the one in this video!!
Is it possible to reset the governor if it is now "backwards" or in some other improper position? Will I have to tear the engine down to do that? Is there any other work around that I can do to simply slow the speed down a little, such as maybe a smaller carb jet? Any advice (or a video) would be greatly appreciated.
There is a video on how to set the governor. Loosen the bolt, turn the spindle that goes inside the engine clockwise with some needle nose while looking at it, tighten bolt on governor arm. You dont really adjust it other than just setting it all way to the clockwise side.
Us go kart guys remove the governor completely and let em eat rpm with bigger jets and a race pipe and billet flywheel and they last a long time with the oil and plug changed regularly. Great video now I know I can tune wide open I just gotta keep it under 20 minutes before things go boom !
Thank you for the video. I guess you were using an RPM reader? If yes, what brand and model is? I would buy it. Thanks.
Right about where the "Warranty void" sign is too
Those who doubted you should pay for a new engine. Don't forget they also got great information out of this as well.
Extreme way to prove a point, awesome video Steve.
Thank You...
The connecting rod is the unsung hero of the internal combustion engine! It's like a dog leash trying to hold onto a bull! Except it has to withstand being tugged on and being squished in alternation to the tune of 3000+ times per minute. It's no wonder that it's the first component to give way at breakneck speed.
wonder why they can't make 'em outta cast iron?.
@@mickgatz214 Cast iron is great because it's hard and strong, plentiful, inexpensive, and it has fairly good machinability, which makes it ideal for making large heavy components that need to last a long time. However, cast iron is far from the strongest or toughest material. It is brittle and has very poor fatigue resistance to cyclical loading, which is primarily the kind of failure that connecting rods are susceptible to. Certain steel alloys can withstand an incredible amount of loading without fatiguing: one of them is 3% chrome molybdenum steel, which can withstand 70k psi without fatiguing. Spring steels can withstand close to 100k psi. Cast iron can only withstand around 25k psi. That means the cast iron connecting rod would have to be extremely beefy to match the fatigue life of these specialty steels, which adds a lot of reciprocating mass to the engine. Clearly this is not optimal.
@@johnbarron4265 Hey thanx for that. I honestly didn't know all that!
Hell even 12k rpms
@@johnbarron4265 . It all boils down to cost, a steel or harder matal conrod would then need shell bearings lined with a softer metal to protect the crankshaft which then adds more cost. These engines are a compromise between operating OK and cost of producing them . Good regular maintenance is the key to getting longevity from any engine. I service a 50 year old B&S engine for a customer, including an annual oil and air filter change and the engine still runs great, no smoking, no starting issues and no loss of power and it runs in a ride- on that cuts a 1.5 acre lawn at least once a week through the season.
Gee Steve that's a flashback from a few years ago when the Tecumseh Snowking's were dominant in the snowblower market and then the trottle linkages froze up! Same result! Ventilated crankcase.
Right on...
I had a similar thing happen to a rototiller. Where the governor arm connects to the little spindle coming out of the engine from the governor flyweights rattled loose, and lost its grip on the governor arm. It was unable to throttle back the carburetor, and the engine ran too fast. CLANK.......That's all she wrote!!
Okay..w watch the first video on how to adjust the governor. Follow the instructions. But I think that the governor shaft isn't engaged properly. I got the engine started again but then it revved like crazy like you said and then shut off.
Know the limits of your engine and constantly strive to exceed them! ( Overheard in a dyno room).
Right on...
If it ain't breakin', you ain't racin'!!
What fun. Years ago we had someone not set the fuel rack correctly on a Detroit Diesel 6-41. It went to full throttle and jammed there. We ran out and waited for it to blow. Took about the same amount of time as that Honda.
LOL. Right on...
I used to work at a local business that sold various versions of those honda powered pressure washers.
We had a real problem with cheap asses (contractors no less) bending the governor linkages to get them to run at 4000 - 5000 RPM so that they could get their ~2.6 - 3 GPM 2500 PSI pressure washers to put out 3.5 - 4+ GPM and 3000+ PSI then running them that way all summer until they blew the engines or the pumps then bringing them back for coverage under the 1 year warranty.
Nice one steve, now we need performance rods
Hey Steve I’ve watched both videos on governor settings. One video you bend the arm, the other video you loosen the nut and adjust the pin and arm. Which is the correct or best procedure? Thank you
I have the same question. Did you ever get an answer? I bent my governor arm as he showed in his video but it didn't change the rpm's at all... still revving way too high. I'm going to try the other procedure (loosen the nut & adjust pin) and see if it makes a difference. I have a Honda GCV160 on a Karcher Pressure Washer.
@@A13-f7w no I never got an answer. I do like arm bending procedure better though
Great video Steve! And that Dewalt impact driver is the most used hand tool in my shop.
Mine too!
Any questions? Read the book if you want to avoid breaking sh1t.
Steve, got a Briggs 11 hp, model 252707. Engine has no throttle control. Linkages verified with shop manual, throttle plate is free and secure. Governor set as per Briggs spec. Carb, one piece flojet, is new and I cleaned it prior to install. Initially had a blown head gasket, machined head, adjusted valves per spec. Engine had numerous sump oil leaks so I pulled the sump cover suspecting a broken governor. Governor was good, sealed engine up and she still races, no throttle control. Throttle cable adjusted per spec. Not sure where to go next. Thanks so much!
defective governor. If it will not stay set, it's damaged.
Bullcrap indeed! I remember getting a briggs V twin from someone at the shop to have for free. Apperantly someone did a diy on it because the moment i started it it ran out of control and before i could even get the key off it broke a rod and shattered the gov. weights all over the crank case. I have it in my garage in a corner as a subtle reminder to go over stuff dropped off on me.
My pressure washer choke has to stay wide open to stay on and the rpm goes high. So I slightly play with the choke and set it in slightly and the rpm’s go down. Gonna try the governor and hope that works
Old Milwaukee 👍👍
Greetings and a big Thank You for all you do from Nova Scotia! 🙏🤝
You're Welcome...
Sorry that you had to sacrifice 1 engine to prove a point and hopefully save many engines. Great video, thank you.....
You're Welcome...
thanks for that Steve, there's a right and wrong way of doing things. as far as the governor goes, set it properly or else, if that engine would've been on a minibike someone would have a very bad day after riding for only 30 minutes. i just got a Honda gc160 for free that doesn't run and i just found out that the camshaft is broken and upon inspection i will need a cam, timing belt and crank seals just in case. thanks for the video Steve catch you on the next one.
Good luck!
It seems like no matter what the content I love whatever you put out
Thanks Brandon...
Steve great video. I converted my 5kw Honda (GX 390) generator to propane with a kit from (PNG). It consists of a snorkel in the air filter before the carb. When I run it the engine spins at between 3440 -3480 at moderate load. For 60 hz power it should spin at 3600 rpm. I contacted the kit vendor but no response. My instincts tell me to play with the throttle adjustment screw but I see all these other videos about folks playing with the governor. What is your take on this? Reason is, sensitive electronics doesn't like 57 hz and my UPS is constantly chattering on generator power. Other people doing such conversions have to have the same problem but nobody seems to notice it. Would greatly appreciate any comments.
Thing is propane does not produce the power of gas and best to put less load and keep hertz at 60
Remember this if you buy other gen to get higher HP engine
Steve is it really safe to completely remove a governor from an engine for a mini kart racing?
Old Milwaukee beer ?
You got to be kidding me ....
A true teacher. Great job Steve.
Thank You...
I wouldn't be able to do this to a Honda, but so interesting to see on a video! Thanks, Steve! From Alberta, Canada.
Right on...
Holy moley! How about I back down the old HRU216 to 4k, do the lawns in 3 minutes and change the oil every month instead? 🤣
I'm amazed how long that motor held on.
Hey Steve,awesome video! I have a gx160 with gear reduction, problem is I need to use the motor on a piece of equipment and need to remove the gear reducer so it will fit,is that ok?Can I just remove the gear box and use the motor as is, thanks a million man.
I couldn't find the top rev information for my Honda gvc190, only idle speed and the speed at which the horsepower was measured.
I have set mine at 100 below the point where it is measured at by them but faster than when I bought it.
I was told the revs were limited on purchase to meet a sound level setting.
Usually, the horsepower of small engines are rated at 3,600 RPM, unless otherwise noted. They are rated at sea level, at 25°C (77°F) ambient temperature. Keep in mind, the ignition timing is fixed on these engines, so the torque goes down quickly as the RPM goes up. Revving these up often causes a reduction in horsepower, because the torque rolls off more quickly, than the RPM increases. There's no point to overrevving these engines.
but no load on motor,,kinda feel like that had a hand in the death of a motor,,,but totally agree about proper governor set.
The load makes it worse. Think about it.
Wow that was great.
I hope that was the same engine that you ran with no oil and adjusted the valves and ran again. lol
Keep them coming Steve.
Cheers.
Hi Steve why I see 2 max rpm on my power washer honda gc190 ione say 3800l+
-150 and this other one say 3100 which one us right thank u
Did that plastic cam/timing gear thing survive the destruction?
As soon as I saw the hole punched out I though con rod let go!
Guvnor is there for a reason folks!
👍Good stuff Steve. You tell ‘em sir!
(Wonder if some TARYL Putty would fix that rod and case?) 🤣🤣
its crazy that the freakin engine sounds like a big block v8 💯
That was COOL! Thanks Steve!
You're Welcome...
Neighbors: What was that?
LOL it looked like it broke the crank? you could hear it winding down @ 346 yet the pto side was stopped. Good video man! Love the fact that you showed those armchair mechanics.
Right on...
Hey Steve what's the best digital tachometer for small engines
My 1/4” impact driver has the same name as your beer . Sometimes it’s good to test the limitations of something to get understanding of things for future reference.👍🍻
So, what is the rpm setting for a GCV160 Honda lawnmower and a kohler 5400 series on a cub cadet
Most people who remove the governor aren’t going to run their engine at WOT for 30 minutes. More likely in bursts & then back down to cruising speeds. Its good to know they’re that durable. Wow 😮
Right on Ross...
I have a question... how do I get the governor rod out of the engine?? I accidentally pushed mine in...
Hi Steve. Your the best I have see. Brilliant. Keep up the good work.. I'm hooked on your videos. Brendan from Ireland. 👍👍👌🇮🇪
Wow, thanks!
Hey steve, I have a troy bilt snow blower that had a broken governor when I bought it. I replaced it twice and both times it exploded. Any ideas? Thanks, Bill grooms.
Lot of damage there nice job
Thank You...
That was fascinating, will you blow up some more engines? Maybe a 2 stroke?
Already did! Its in my playlists...
Watching in the Shetland isles uk.hope you have a nice day .
Thank you! You too!
Just curious as to why it didn't hold up? Lack of lubrication due to high rpm keeping oil from coating the connecting rod? Rod looked scored slightly. Spinning so fast at 5700+ rpm oil slinger can't let oil get to rod bearing surface? Or does it have a pressurized set up?
please do a video on the hs80 snowblower engine gx 240/270 governor adjustment....please....
Thats one tough engine! Awesome video
Yes it was!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I know you say don't adjust the governor the wrong way by mistake. I bet it would hold up just a bit longer with a bullet connection rod? I think it would make a good go-kart engine lol.
steve you should do a video on how to fix a lawnmower cam gear mine broke and caused the engine to throw a rod :(
That's not like Steve, usually it's the other way around.
Engines start dead, and end up running in your hands.
I have that same motor, how can I hook a throttle linkage to it?I'm putting it on a go-cart.
That was certainly interesting. Thanks
You're Welcome...
Hey Steve love the Chanel got a question for ya, got a stihl 461 that run great but lately cold starts with choke on won’t give that initial pop and will flood from just a couple of pulls is this a carb issue
I’ll be honest... that’s a high end residential grade engine. I would personally rather have a gx200, but that was IMPRESSIVE. 30 mins?!?!? *WOW*
Right on
It may have lasted longer if it was under load. Wouldn't make too much difference though. Actually, the mechanic at the nearby go kart track told me that all karts there have the governor bypassed and have run on full throttle for 24 hours. They had Honda GX270 engines. I didn't believe him. Turns out, I'm right :)
The guy at the go kart track was probably referring to the external governor linkage, not the internal governor.
Hey Steve, I have a Honda 2.2hp G100, powering a oil-less/tankless scuba air compressor. The engine has low hrs. How do I boost the HP without increasing the RPM. The engine rpm is restricted to 2350 rpm, because of risk of damaging the pump. It has a poppet type pressure relief valve that is made to vent out excessive air pressure, maintaining a certain pressure to the supply line. The engine kept stalling out from the compressor load, until I set the RPM higher ( which is a no no) I'm thinking the governor should make allowances for the load, maintaining the proper 2350 RPM. Boosting the HP with octane or something is probably the wrong approach, perhaps you have a tip to set up the governor properly, by adjusting the spring or changing it.The engine does not seem to want to "dig-in" under higher load pressure. Any tip would be helpful.. Thx.
It was really screaming along there--until it wasn't!
Yup...
Great video! Great testimony to the strength of these Honda engines
Right on...
Love the Carnage. Thanks for the video. Great video
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
Same subject but different area, why do new push mowers that you buy at big box stores not have a throttle adjustment cable like they used to have. Now they run at the same speed all the time. Just curious. Love your videos.
Cheap GC hung in there for quite a while before creating positive crankcase ventilation. haha
It'll polish out.
you did not have a temp Lazar on it..did it just overheat?
Hi Steve: Just left a recommendation for a carb adjustment for an old Redmax EB430 Leaf Blower... I can't find the RPM specs for this 30 year old blower...Idle/Low/High rev limit... Any info on that ? Love your videos!
Ed Koops / San Antonio, TX
Steve, would running that engine with a load have made a difference in the results you achieved?
PS: kind of hard to fix that one!
It probably would have sped up the process.
Um it made every bit of difference 😂🤦🏼♀️it took 30 minutes at 5700rpm too break it... It definately wouldnt break at 10minutes with 3000rpm 🤦🏼♀️
Thank you for sharing .. it was awesome to watch n the results.
My pleasure 😊
I only remove the governor for go karts and when I do I replace the standered parts with billet parts like billet rod and I replace the valve srings and caps with after market ones so it dousent drop a valve. No way I'd run one stock without the govener
Even without the modifications, you're still OK, as long as the engine is LOADED while open throttle. What kills engines, is wide open throttle, with no load! Any load will slow the engine down enough to be safe, as long as you don't sustain over ~4,500 RPM for very long. High RPM prevents the rod throw bearing from maintaining adequate oil between the crank shaft and the rod throw journal. Engines that are designed to run at ~6,000 RPM are pressurized lubricated, which ensures adequate oil in the rod throw bearings.
Damn! That's more like a screened in porch with a sliding glass door!
Steve I have a gx670 Honda repower deere about 400 hours its temperamental on starting or not wanting to. I've replaced all fuel lines and new carburetor and waiting on tank filters. Any pictures on the proper settings please