He’s a gamer but the quality you’re describing is that of a tinkerer. He’s definitely engineering oriented (regardless of whether he’s an engineer or not)
LPT: if you're using a " 3rd hand " for soldering jobs like shown in the video, apply heat-shrink tube around the upper and lower jaw of the crocodile clips. This prevents the tiny sharp teeth from scratching your PCB or bating trough thin cable you might be soldering. It is a little less grippy, so kepe that in mind.
I'm not much into games, even less in changing my mouse switches, but I really appreciate the diligence if Ali to make thing...optimal. I've came here to build a SFFPC and stayed only to appreciate the good work
You can tell a big difference. Thanks for covering this on such a higher level for many to see. Been wanting to do this after watching Bearded bobs vids.
beardedbob definitely covers this at a much MUCH higher level. Given the massive spreadsheets he has setup for anyone to get at and download so they can steal his work and make their own video... and take the credit for it. (hint hint wink wink)
Just a warning to those new to soldering: flux is included in each solder wire to help it flow better but it can also cause cancer. Make sure you have a fan to blow the solder fumes away from your working environment and do your soldering in a well-ventilated area!
One thing that wasn't mentioned is that you can add a bit of tape under the mouse buttons also which can affect travel distance and actuation force. Also, while most switches fit, some are a bit taller/wider than usual. An example is the Japanese omrons which are just a hair taller than usual, requiring you to sand/file them down a bit. Another thing to note is that generally (but not always), a lighter click will have a shorter lifespan and a stiffer click will have a higher lifespan. As mentioned, there can be a lot of click variance even between the same switches so this is not always true, but you can use it as a starting point when looking for switches. I've managed to mod the switches on my model D and after a bit of trial and error with sanding the switch and adding tape (under the buttons), I have managed to completely remove the horrible play/pretravel that the model D has. This means the click now occurs almost instantaneously, while still having enough stiffness such that I won't accidentally double-click if I don't want it to.
@@syarifairlangga4608 tbh they cant, the oroms used in the g pro are not "real " omrons, they are chinese made, and with worse tolerances that "real" Jap omrons. Logitech used to have amazing clicks, but the latest g pro 2 etc, has outright bad button feal, to heavy, just crap.
@@uvuvwevwevweossaswithglasses Seriously. Is it much more complicated to design a mouse that has the screws accessible? I swear they do this on purpose to discourage people repairing their tech.
Great video, your production quality is absolutely nuts. Switches generally have a lot of variation in actuation force and feel, manufacturers can buy preselected switches in bulk, where the difference in actuation force is much smaller.
often called "binned" or "presorted" and yes Kailh does this so that a pack of them you buy has as little variation across all the switches as technically possible.
Its always so refreshing to se a pc builder that actually is any good at gaming. Well in your case really good. Its hard to take feed back serious from someone who misses 90% of his shoots or runs into an enpty area of the map and still gets killed in his footage.
@@Witch1412 Most pc build channels also review gaming peripheres. It is also weird to see builders claim that their build is the perfekt x gaming pc and than continue to have the most basic gaming skills. Its like when someone is trying to sell you the perfect gym product when he has a barley above average physique himself.
Upgrading my mouse switches? Great, now I can have another expensive obsession lol. Is there enough of a hobbyist community around this that they sell a switch tester, by any chance?
@@lightningcat6382 Yes, it's time to design and print a whole new split ergonomic mouse that fits one part over each finger like a bulbous glove. Let's make it an open-source project and start a group buy, too.
I just did this after being convinced from your video and it took me a little over an hour following tutorials but I was able to do it and I couldn't be happier. Used the same switches that you I got the teals. It's night and day difference they feel amazing. I also modded the side buttons to make them less mushy. And after the upgraded core pads it feels like a new mouse. Amazing.
I need to get some of that tinfoil duct tape, seems like thats the only thing that wont slide off the side button pegs. (currently using electrical tape xD)
If you search for "double clicking fault mouse" you'll find an instrutables page which tells you how to fix the switch, no soldering required. I need to do mine too.
@@hootsmin I know, but switches are cheap and if I'm going to disassemble my mouse, I might as well swap them out. My mouse is 10 years old, and I use it for hours every day so it's amazing it's lasted this long. It's a Logitech G9X, I love it, will never get a new one. :D
I actually did this a few months ago with my Cooler Master MM710, I swapped the Omron's for some Kailh GM 4.0's and it legit feels like a way better mouse, no longer has the feeling of pre or post travel when clicking, feels a lot more responsive as well. Getting the old solder off of those old switches was a bit of a hassle at the start but I found if you apply some lead solder to the switch you're trying to remove and then use some solder braid it comes away a lot cleaner, would also 100% recommend getting Core pad skates or some Tiger skates.
This channel is gold. Unfortunately I just discovered it but on a positive site I have a lot to watch. Been a custom keyboard enthusiast for about 2 years and know a lot about it but just came into modding/adjusting my other equipment as well, so this really helps me out a lot.
I've tried a bunch of these switches and almost anything is a noticeable upgrade over stock omeron switches in terms of feel. It's quite subtle, but still noticeable. However, I always revert back to kailh silent switches. It's a quiet, thunky kind of click that I really like. It's not "snappy" like the classic switches and I can definitely understand why not everyone would like them. Every mouse I use now has them. Ranging from expensive mice to $5 wireless mice.
I have a G305 that purchased 6 months ago. I desoldered all the three-pin switches and the two-pin switch. The left and right click were Omron switches. The side buttons were already the red Kailh GM 4.0, the mouse wheel was a two-pin switch, and the DPI button was another three-pin Kailh but had a black housing. I replaced all of them with two-pin Kailh Silent switches. Sounds amazing, feels great.
Every video you make is just so good for enthusiasts. Just picked up 5 Huano blue shell white dots, guess I should practice soldering these first before my custom keyboard. Great video
I love that you've now joined us in the rabbit hole. First the keyboard and now the mouse! I got distracted by your monitors. What are you using as your main and as your vertical?
Really hoped for you to try "silent" switch variant, like those 2 pin square. Yes, I know we can't click them fast enough to be competitive... but maybe?
And the man can solder like a beast! Your videos always impress Ali, this is definitely my next project, as well as custom 3D printed shells... maybe a new venture for you too?
The GM 8.0's are great choice for gaming, I put those in my SuperlightX. Tip be very careful unpluging the ribbon that connects to your Mouse 1&2 + Scroll Wheel function PCB. Remove the ribbon while the pcb is unseated for a better grip, it can be tough taking it out and inserting it back in. The ribbon is fragile and can crack like what happened to me making the mouse useless without those functions =(. Oh and that really small springy tension thing that holds down the scroll wheel, very easy to loose didn't even know it was even there. I suggest remembering how it goes on before removing the wheel. But and in all great upgrade for your SuperlightX, so much better than the stock Omron's. Cheers lads
@@stillreallymad It holds down & secures the scroll wheel down so you scroll up & down while feeling those tactile notches. I think without it the scroll wheel will just spin & the scroll will feel really weird without it, if I can remember correctly when I took my Gpx apart to swap switches. I hope that helps man, cheers.
You could also buy extra switch pcb for the gpw and have several pcbs ready for swapping out if you wanna try different sets without soldering every time. I just bought a hotswap pcb so can change switches on the fly in my superlight instead of having to solder all the time if want to try something new.
I had to replace the scroll wheel in my Logitech g603 because it would occasionally phantom scroll in the opposite direction I rolled the wheel. It'd be a great follow-up to hear your thoughts on the different flavors of aftermarket scroll wheels too.
Love this mouse mod video! Any chance for exploring different encoder options for mouse wheels!? I always find most mice have really mushy/poorly defined wheel steps. I've heard there are options for modding them with encoders that feel much more stiff and defined
Double clicking fault doesn't matter it's easy to open up the microswitch and clean it the copper and the contact, I've been doing it for 5 years with my G300s.
It's worth noting that the double click issue (that the G Pro Wireless is/was known for prior to the Super Light) is a voltage issue that manages those switches within the software itself, and not the switches themselves. Though there certainly can be a benefit from swapping switches too (if desirable, similar to customizing your keyboard switch based on how you prefer it feels).
I've done a lot of research before I bought mine and my conclusion is that it's mostly a mechanical failure in the switches themselves. Many people have switch swapped their GPW with known reliable switches to permanently fix the double clicking issue. I'm thinking of being prepared and getting some switches or a switch-modded PCB so I don't have to solder anything, but the current factory switches are holding up great so far. Plus they sound beefy, a metallic undertone and crisp click. Maybe Logitech started using different switches with the newest batch of g pro wireless?
I don't know how many times you installed and remove switches just to show us their differences, great video, i Never comment like this, but you're legendary
@@Chuha97 Not at all. Had it like this for over a year, and it feels and sounds great. Really recommend trying it out. If nothing else it probably gets more compact and therefore better over time.
Pulled the trigger on the Kailh GM 2.0's aswell as the Kailh SMD Blue dots (side buttons) and thanks to this guide was able to successfully upgrade. No more double clicking and feels so much better. Thank you Ali!
@@Bruno-cb5gk can't just explain it like that there's process to soldering as in, adding your own solder to the stock OEM as it can be harder to remove the switch if the stock is very high on melting point then you can heat up all 3 legs and pull switch out then remove the solder with a pump or wick and then slide new switch with a touch of solder in middle to hold the switch in place so itdoes't fall out. You can watch Ents's tutorial on it if you are confused.
@@karminipal4700 I'm not saying its easy, the soldering can definitely be fiddly (I've had to replace the switches in my G900 because double clicking) but it isn't in any way confusing.
A couple of tips to improve your soldering experience, firstly don't use a tip like that (conical), they are awful since they don't hold heat very well, Use something like a chisel tip you'll also have a easier time if you use a better desoldering pump like a engineer SS-02 These are fairly expensive but is well worth the cost if you plan on soldering fairly often.
Critical tip: If you overheat the legs of switch it will be garbage. You have to be very fast, and choose low temperature soldering tube with decent flux.
Some tips when doing this. Desoldering is the harder part when soldering ur new switched make sure to not burn or keep the solder iron on the pins for too long or you can break the switch if self or burn the bad off which after that is extremely hard to fix
Most well-rounded mouse microswitch comparison video I've seen to date. Thank you for this. This is some "bookmark and link to people when they're asking about this topic" material.
Hey man, just wanted to thank you. I spent quite a long time watching videos and researching about switch upgrades. I managed to upgrade my GPX Superlight with Kailh GM 8.0's, definitely better than stock switches for me. Hopefully it lasts a long time.
FYI the TTC Gold switches feel different depending on their click rating. 80M rated TTC Golds are heavier and way easier to spam click due to having a much stronger debounce.
This video makes me so happy, I have a logitech g pro sleeping in its box for years because of the double clicking issue, i ordered the kailh gm 2 already, can't wait to revive it
Hey @Optimum Tech, thanks for this video. I got myself the GM 8.0 Blacks for my G502 with the annoying double click issue, and it works incredibly well. Got the whole thing back to working in just $20, didn't even solder myself, paid somebody a dollar for it, and could have easily gotten it done in under $10 if not for skates, which I had to import. But in anycase, this is a lot cheaper than having to buy another mouse, and a lot better than having to spend $20 and settle with a worse mouse. I went for the 8.0's because I didn't want the tight reds, would've liked the 2.0's, but didn't see them being sold. But all in all, I love my mouse now :)
Got inspiered to do this mod, as I had bad double click issues on my left mouse button, and one of the side buttons on my G Pro (wired). I have GM 8.0's on my left, right and the side buttons now, DEFFENETLY worth it. And the "solder the middle pin first" tip is really good. Another thing i learned is, dont get lead free solder, I was trying to do this with lead free, and it was a horrible first time solder experience, got some 60/40 lead solder and it was waaay easier.
Besides others mouses I own four Logitech M510. Two with old logo, two with new logo. Both old mouses works fine, both new are dead (double-clicks). After disassembling new mouses I found Kailh microswitches inside. Old M510 got Omron D2FC-F-7N. I got also Logitech MX518 with Omron D2FC-F-7N(20M). This mouse went trough 15 years(!!!) of playing Diablo 2 and 3, PoE, WoW and now D2R. You can imagine how many clicks I've made. Mouse is still doing fine and never been even opened. I'm planning to buy some new gaming mouse as soon as this one dies. Seems it will never happen :) With all the respect to your hard work, I'm about to do the same... but in reverse. I've just ordered Omrons D2FC-F7N(20M) and I'm about to replace all Kailh microswitches I've got. Clicking noise? Well, as you see I got other problems than clicking noise :)
Besides the switch itself, the implementation matters alot. The way its positioned under the mouse button and also the plastic quality the button is made of. Take for example Xtrfy M42, uses Omrons but damn they sound and feel so crisp and snappy.
man its about the pressure ,feeling, consistency and how much life span a switch has, i prefer subtile mouse micro switches that are silent or dont have too much click in them but have alot of performance , then lube them for extra clicks and its better than an expensive mouse.
I'll add a data point: Much like Logitech mice, the EVGA TORQ series of mice also have Omron switches in them... but! It does make a difference where the switches were manufactured. The included switches in all aforementioned mice were manufactured in China. Omron *does* make good switches which can be sourced on Amazon: Omron's Japan-manufactured switches are not prone to the double-click plague and are quite inexpensive. I have re-switched both of my EVGA Torq X5L mice, both of which began double and mis-clicking in under a year. Both mice are 2 years in with the Japanese Omron switches and are still working great!
You can reuse glides in 99% of cases if you heat them up long enough. Use a hairdryer and try to move them from side to side until they start to "float". It takes some time but trying to remove glides too early will damage them. To solder - use high heat, but work fast. If something isn't perfect and you want to fix it wait a bit. Overheating a switch can make it melt inside, on cheaper mice pads can fall off. Repairing mice is my hobby, and I usually make 10-15 bucks per mouse which is a nice bonus for something I like doing anyway.
Got inspiration and replaced my G502 wireless switches with Kailh GM 2.0. The first time I did soldering and the result came out pretty amazing. Really enjoying the new switches and bye-bye to the dreaded double click. The tutorials must be like this video which explains everything in such an easy way that you get encouragement to do it yourself. Thanks, Ali for this nice video.
how good are are the gm 2.0 on the g502? i own a g502 hero and the double click is killing me, what switch would you recommend? i just need something that feels nice and solid but also good for fps
@@Grimm98 Like Ali said, switch feel can differ on different mouse bodies. The Kailh 2.0 I'm using is giving me crisp and accurate clicks. I play FPS and I can single tap any gun on full auto mode. I haven't tested many switches but I can share that Kailh 2.0 perfectly match the body of 502 hero. You'll love it.
I love to see that different hobbies have different takes on stuff. In engineering. Especially 3d printing omrons are praised like gods. And gaming switches are tossed to the side. But its the opposite in gaming
Thanks. Was able to solve a double clicking SteelSeries Rival 100 mouse by soldering the Kailh GM 2.0s which are just right. A tip for anyone with similar problems. My old switches wouldn't fall out on their own because they were secured too tight. I needed to apply pressure and pry them out at the same time as de-soldering the points.
no offense but you dont need fine soldering tip to solder these micro switches. fine tip actually makes the soldering job much harder as the tip retains too little heat. as a beginner you want a D shape tip as the heat capacity and conductive surface is higher, it will be easier to melt the solder and easier to work with in general. you will only need fine tip on very specific situations such as soldering very fine traces (much finer than the traces you have to deal with for a microswitch. also, get some non acidic soldering flux, it helps the flow of solder. Also, you can reuse the mouse feet easily (up to once or twice) by heating it up with a air dryer/heat gun (dont over do as it will leave marks on or melt the plastic)
finally, hopeful this video gonna kick start the trend of manufactures not putting screws behind the feet. been doing mice switch for years now, the only M1 switch I would go for is cherry DG4, and recently I am using DG4 for M1 alone side with zf yellow dot switch for M2(well, i prefer a different switch for the M1 and M2. since M1 usually just for a shot and M2 just for ADS) The DG4 is very short travel and super snappy, crispy yet not too hard like most kaihl switches. After using this kind switch, going back to Omron 20M is like going back to membrance keyboard. I opened up all my mice without even trying them once right after i get them, coz i know they came with that shit switch from factory anyway. Finally this trend needs to start. Also more metal body mice need to happen ! not just one !
Paintballers have been swapping switches out since the early 2000s. Pro tip, if you over heat the switch, it only takes a fraction of a second, you can warp the switch, changing the weight and feel, and sometimes ruining the switch, so it helps to use the lowest heat you can to do the solder move if you have an adjustable, or using a small clip to soak heat and protect the switch.
FYI 2:45 is not enough to unscrew the buttons (At least in my version of the mouse). You must pry out the battery itself (which is glued) to get the two screws that are underneath it. Luckily this also means you dont have to fiddle with the annoying cable.
Soldering takes next to no time. Soldering isn't as hard as people seem to think it is... My first time soldering something was when I was 6 or 7 years old lol. The first time I touched a soldering iron was when I was 3, and it was the wrong end so I burned myself something fierce 😂
@@HuyV It can be difficult if you can't afford the full soldering kit. I attempted a soldering on my mouse a month ago with just a solder gun, solder iron & a third hand. You know what happens next.
This video made me order some switches to fix the double clicking issue on my G502 Lightspeed that i got RMA'd. Now it works better than ever and i have the replacement as a spare. :)
I do a decent amount of electronics work and I would recommend Solder wick to remove solder it is like using a tissue it adorbs it and comes right off. Also a tiny tiny bit of flux could go a long way if you are also bad at soldering.
Been Using the GM8.0 on my G304/G305 and watching your video made me want to change it into TTC Gold. As always, thank you very much for the eye-pleasing videos, I wish I could learn more about how you arrange your lighting in a video-recording
if anyone’s going to be buying soldering kit for this- spend your money on good tools, especially the pump (engineer ss-02) and iron (much more variety here, personally i’d recommend ts100 or pinecil, others might recommend more traditional hakko stations). it’s not much of a difference in price, but using it it’s night and day
Amazing video! Thank you for so much detail!!! I have two G602s which I love because of the 6 thumb buttons (I do CAD for work and having the thumb-button shortcuts is life changing). Unfortunately, the left click switch in one is acting up. When clicking-and-holding-and-dragging, the switch often disengages and then re-engages on its own (without me lifting my finger pressure and there is no audible un-click/re-click). This has caused some HUGE headaches when trying to drag and drop files and folders and the switch decides to release while the cursor is moving over a random folder in File Explorer.... Now I finally have a game plan for getting new switches installed in my mouse and restoring it to its original condition, and maybe even improving on it! I often find myself miss-clicking the right button because the switch pressure is so light, so now I know which switches to buy to solve that problem too! Thanks again!
Can we take a moment to appreciate this man hardwork. He just soldered and desoldered all the switces just for us.
Mech enthusiasts be like: meh
Damn, it sure did take him super long to do something he has already done once, damn.
Was thinking the same, what a great job! Thanks man!
@@PhyNxFyre with a really shit iron that is.
As a guy who's into mechanical keyboards, I just desodered over 50 switches. Thats nothing.
Sound test
7:13 - Stock Omron 20m
7:18 - TTC Gold
7:23 - Kailh GM 2.0
7:27 - Kailh GM 8.0
7:31 - Huano Blue dot
7:37 - Huano Blue White dot
7:43 - Huano Red dot
7:48 - Kailh GM4
tysm!
Thank you
so which is good?
@@omardotzat2290 I picked "Huano Blue White dot", 2 years without any issues, very pleasant experience
You really cover every little piece of Tech possible, and you actually know your stuff! What a gamer.
You could say it is the OPTIMUM coverage 😅
I'll see myself out.
He’s a gamer but the quality you’re describing is that of a tinkerer. He’s definitely engineering oriented (regardless of whether he’s an engineer or not)
@@hsharma3933 Engi on the streets, gamer in the sheets?
Is ur pfp a Xbox 360 default pfp ?
I wager he is second to Steve only in thoroughness
thanks for taking the time to solder every switch and test the difference between them for us, you're amazing.
check out beardedbob on here, his whole channel is this and where this guy got the idea and testing methods as well as the information.
Ok that aim test was a huge flex
Lol
ikr Ali's aim is how you know you can trust his mouse reviews
His aim is really good compared to other tech ytubers
yea
those taps seemed effortless
What program is that?
LPT: if you're using a " 3rd hand " for soldering jobs like shown in the video, apply heat-shrink tube around the upper and lower jaw of the crocodile clips. This prevents the tiny sharp teeth from scratching your PCB or bating trough thin cable you might be soldering. It is a little less grippy, so kepe that in mind.
I'm not much into games, even less in changing my mouse switches, but I really appreciate the diligence if Ali to make thing...optimal.
I've came here to build a SFFPC and stayed only to appreciate the good work
You can tell a big difference. Thanks for covering this on such a higher level for many to see. Been wanting to do this after watching Bearded bobs vids.
beardedbob definitely covers this at a much MUCH higher level. Given the massive spreadsheets he has setup for anyone to get at and download so they can steal his work and make their own video... and take the credit for it. (hint hint wink wink)
More brands should apply what Asus does with their mice that have interchangeable switches.
More brands should just introduce optical switches
Honestly can't wait until hot-swap switches on mice becomes mainstream.
@@therealb888 For real. I have the viper ultimate and I cant use any other mouse. The feedback is so good.
doesnt asus have the patent for it? so other mice companies cant use it?
@@minjou6412 yeah they do
Just a warning to those new to soldering: flux is included in each solder wire to help it flow better but it can also cause cancer. Make sure you have a fan to blow the solder fumes away from your working environment and do your soldering in a well-ventilated area!
welp im ded
Leukemia 😨
Thanks for the tip man - haven't done soldering before, so that's great to know.
Everything causes cancer lmfao
I makes you feel sick but I can't see anywhere that says rosin based flux is carcinogenic.
One thing that wasn't mentioned is that you can add a bit of tape under the mouse buttons also which can affect travel distance and actuation force.
Also, while most switches fit, some are a bit taller/wider than usual. An example is the Japanese omrons which are just a hair taller than usual, requiring you to sand/file them down a bit. Another thing to note is that generally (but not always), a lighter click will have a shorter lifespan and a stiffer click will have a higher lifespan. As mentioned, there can be a lot of click variance even between the same switches so this is not always true, but you can use it as a starting point when looking for switches.
I've managed to mod the switches on my model D and after a bit of trial and error with sanding the switch and adding tape (under the buttons), I have managed to completely remove the horrible play/pretravel that the model D has. This means the click now occurs almost instantaneously, while still having enough stiffness such that I won't accidentally double-click if I don't want it to.
true. thats why most manufacture use omron because they can balance actuation force and the lifeclick
@@syarifairlangga4608 tbh they cant, the oroms used in the g pro are not "real " omrons, they are chinese made, and with worse tolerances that "real" Jap omrons. Logitech used to have amazing clicks, but the latest g pro 2 etc, has outright bad button feal, to heavy, just crap.
I honestly didn’t know that changing mouse switches was a thing!
Lol I've done it twice on G102 lol
And yes its a thing just those one time use pads are the biggest problem.
@@uvuvwevwevweossaswithglasses Seriously. Is it much more complicated to design a mouse that has the screws accessible? I swear they do this on purpose to discourage people repairing their tech.
@@Dislob yes precisely
Welcome to 2021 son.
Great video, your production quality is absolutely nuts. Switches generally have a lot of variation in actuation force and feel, manufacturers can buy preselected switches in bulk, where the difference in actuation force is much smaller.
often called "binned" or "presorted" and yes Kailh does this so that a pack of them you buy has as little variation across all the switches as technically possible.
Its always so refreshing to se a pc builder that actually is any good at gaming. Well in your case really good. Its hard to take feed back serious from someone who misses 90% of his shoots or runs into an enpty area of the map and still gets killed in his footage.
You mean a mouse & keyboard reviewer? Because I don't see how having bad aim has anything to do with one's ability to *build* PCs.
@@Witch1412 Most pc build channels also review gaming peripheres. It is also weird to see builders claim that their build is the perfekt x gaming pc and than continue to have the most basic gaming skills. Its like when someone is trying to sell you the perfect gym product when he has a barley above average physique himself.
Upgrading my mouse switches?
Great, now I can have another expensive obsession lol.
Is there enough of a hobbyist community around this that they sell a switch tester, by any chance?
Time to lube the switches!!!
@@lightningcat6382 Yes, it's time to design and print a whole new split ergonomic mouse that fits one part over each finger like a bulbous glove. Let's make it an open-source project and start a group buy, too.
@@lightningcat6382 you need to buy replacement feet as well as they're generally not reusable after you peel them off
Modding a mouse, shape wise is expensive unless you have a 3D printer, switch replacements are cheap
@@BlizzardWind99 always lube before inserting
1:38 is the reason why everyone should trust his review
Gaming skills= Trust
Great video, mate! Finally someone covers the popular switches out there.
Huano Blue White Dot sounds the best imo with that deep thocky sound.
I just did this after being convinced from your video and it took me a little over an hour following tutorials but I was able to do it and I couldn't be happier. Used the same switches that you I got the teals. It's night and day difference they feel amazing. I also modded the side buttons to make them less mushy. And after the upgraded core pads it feels like a new mouse. Amazing.
I need to get some of that tinfoil duct tape, seems like thats the only thing that wont slide off the side button pegs. (currently using electrical tape xD)
@@Glassgate yeah the aluminum tape works perfectly and sticks really well. still no issues with it.
This is exactly what I was looking for! My mouse started double clicking on its own and I need to replace the switch. Thanks for another great video!
If you search for "double clicking fault mouse" you'll find an instrutables page which tells you how to fix the switch, no soldering required. I need to do mine too.
@@hootsmin I know, but switches are cheap and if I'm going to disassemble my mouse, I might as well swap them out. My mouse is 10 years old, and I use it for hours every day so it's amazing it's lasted this long. It's a Logitech G9X, I love it, will never get a new one. :D
pc games when they find out that their mouse is prebuild
I actually did this a few months ago with my Cooler Master MM710, I swapped the Omron's for some Kailh GM 4.0's and it legit feels like a way better mouse, no longer has the feeling of pre or post travel when clicking, feels a lot more responsive as well. Getting the old solder off of those old switches was a bit of a hassle at the start but I found if you apply some lead solder to the switch you're trying to remove and then use some solder braid it comes away a lot cleaner, would also 100% recommend getting Core pad skates or some Tiger skates.
Put some 4.0's in my logitech g604 today! They feel amazing and I immediately noticed the lack of pre and post click travel. Love them
This channel is gold. Unfortunately I just discovered it but on a positive site I have a lot to watch. Been a custom keyboard enthusiast for about 2 years and know a lot about it but just came into modding/adjusting my other equipment as well, so this really helps me out a lot.
I've tried a bunch of these switches and almost anything is a noticeable upgrade over stock omeron switches in terms of feel. It's quite subtle, but still noticeable. However, I always revert back to kailh silent switches. It's a quiet, thunky kind of click that I really like. It's not "snappy" like the classic switches and I can definitely understand why not everyone would like them.
Every mouse I use now has them. Ranging from expensive mice to $5 wireless mice.
where can i buy them looking for silent switches for my logitech g pro superligh x2
I have a G305 that purchased 6 months ago. I desoldered all the three-pin switches and the two-pin switch. The left and right click were Omron switches. The side buttons were already the red Kailh GM 4.0, the mouse wheel was a two-pin switch, and the DPI button was another three-pin Kailh but had a black housing.
I replaced all of them with two-pin Kailh Silent switches. Sounds amazing, feels great.
My god, you just introduced me to two websites that will become my new obsession. Thank you😫
this video is LEGIT GOLD, do give an update if theres any newer switch or not
Those huano blue dots sound incredible to me, might need to do this.
I really appreciate your hard work and hope to see you reach the 1 million sub point. You deserve it mate.
Every video you make is just so good for enthusiasts. Just picked up 5 Huano blue shell white dots, guess I should practice soldering these first before my custom keyboard. Great video
I love that you've now joined us in the rabbit hole. First the keyboard and now the mouse! I got distracted by your monitors. What are you using as your main and as your vertical?
Really hoped for you to try "silent" switch variant, like those 2 pin square. Yes, I know we can't click them fast enough to be competitive... but maybe?
And the man can solder like a beast! Your videos always impress Ali, this is definitely my next project, as well as custom 3D printed shells... maybe a new venture for you too?
The GM 8.0's are great choice for gaming, I put those in my SuperlightX. Tip be very careful unpluging the ribbon that connects to your Mouse 1&2 + Scroll Wheel function PCB. Remove the ribbon while the pcb is unseated for a better grip, it can be tough taking it out and inserting it back in. The ribbon is fragile and can crack like what happened to me making the mouse useless without those functions =(. Oh and that really small springy tension thing that holds down the scroll wheel, very easy to loose didn't even know it was even there. I suggest remembering how it goes on before removing the wheel. But and in all great upgrade for your SuperlightX, so much better than the stock Omron's. Cheers lads
I broke my springy because I didn't realize it, do you know what it does?
@@stillreallymad It holds down & secures the scroll wheel down so you scroll up & down while feeling those tactile notches. I think without it the scroll wheel will just spin & the scroll will feel really weird without it, if I can remember correctly when I took my Gpx apart to swap switches. I hope that helps man, cheers.
This man's videos are so thought-out and organized.
It's like the opposite of my life.
You could also buy extra switch pcb for the gpw and have several pcbs ready for swapping out if you wanna try different sets without soldering every time. I just bought a hotswap pcb so can change switches on the fly in my superlight instead of having to solder all the time if want to try something new.
Where can one get this?
2:22 that’s like a $400 USD hair dryer in case nobody noticed. The man likes to flex on all of us!
I had to replace the scroll wheel in my Logitech g603 because it would occasionally phantom scroll in the opposite direction I rolled the wheel. It'd be a great follow-up to hear your thoughts on the different flavors of aftermarket scroll wheels too.
Really appreciate the video. Was in the stream and was really interested but did not expect to see a video that fast. Much love
Love this mouse mod video! Any chance for exploring different encoder options for mouse wheels!? I always find most mice have really mushy/poorly defined wheel steps. I've heard there are options for modding them with encoders that feel much more stiff and defined
Double clicking fault doesn't matter it's easy to open up the microswitch and clean it the copper and the contact, I've been doing it for 5 years with my G300s.
That’s all you gotta do?
It's worth noting that the double click issue (that the G Pro Wireless is/was known for prior to the Super Light) is a voltage issue that manages those switches within the software itself, and not the switches themselves. Though there certainly can be a benefit from swapping switches too (if desirable, similar to customizing your keyboard switch based on how you prefer it feels).
I've done a lot of research before I bought mine and my conclusion is that it's mostly a mechanical failure in the switches themselves.
Many people have switch swapped their GPW with known reliable switches to permanently fix the double clicking issue.
I'm thinking of being prepared and getting some switches or a switch-modded PCB so I don't have to solder anything, but the current factory switches are holding up great so far.
Plus they sound beefy, a metallic undertone and crisp click. Maybe Logitech started using different switches with the newest batch of g pro wireless?
I don't know how many times you installed and remove switches just to show us their differences, great video, i Never comment like this, but you're legendary
I recommend trying the grip tape logitech includes with the superlight as button spacers. Works incredibly well!
How does it work? Where do you put it? I have no idea :)
@@reinulf656 put a tiny bit of grip tape at the surface that touches the switch buttons
@@iamevate doesnt it get mushier over time?
@@Chuha97 Not at all. Had it like this for over a year, and it feels and sounds great. Really recommend trying it out. If nothing else it probably gets more compact and therefore better over time.
Why isn't Ali's reviews more widespread. This man does things which promotes improvement amongst the entire PCMR community
@Optimum Tech
Please use some flux next time when desoldering, it makes it a lot easier and faster ;)
Anyway, good video as always!
Pulled the trigger on the Kailh GM 2.0's aswell as the Kailh SMD Blue dots (side buttons) and thanks to this guide was able to successfully upgrade. No more double clicking and feels so much better. Thank you Ali!
I know its a little late but hows it holding up? im thinking of upgrading my mouse and need advice
@@bewfwastaken yea still worth doing although shop around on the latest switches. there may be new ones out.
I still confused how to do it but the switch sounds so good
you open the mouse, remove the old ones, put new ones in, close the mouse. What is there to be confused about?
@@Bruno-cb5gk can't just explain it like that
there's process to soldering as in, adding your own solder to the stock OEM as it can be harder to remove the switch if the stock is very high on melting point then you can heat up all 3 legs and pull switch out then remove the solder with a pump or wick and then slide new switch with a touch of solder in middle to hold the switch in place so itdoes't fall out.
You can watch Ents's tutorial on it if you are confused.
@@Bruno-cb5gkclear enough
@@karminipal4700 I'm not saying its easy, the soldering can definitely be fiddly (I've had to replace the switches in my G900 because double clicking) but it isn't in any way confusing.
at 1:00 what is that wallpaper, it's amazing!
A couple of tips to improve your soldering experience, firstly don't use a tip like that (conical), they are awful since they don't hold heat very well, Use something like a chisel tip you'll also have a easier time if you use a better desoldering pump like a engineer SS-02 These are fairly expensive but is well worth the cost if you plan on soldering fairly often.
While beginners should definitely learn how to use a wick + pump, the best investment I ever made in this hobby was a desoldering station
Critical tip: If you overheat the legs of switch it will be garbage. You have to be very fast, and choose low temperature soldering tube with decent flux.
I’m planning to do this too, just waiting on my switches to arrive 😁
rip warranty
Some tips when doing this. Desoldering is the harder part when soldering ur new switched make sure to not burn or keep the solder iron on the pins for too long or you can break the switch if self or burn the bad off which after that is extremely hard to fix
What are your thoughts on silent switches? Specifically the kailh silents.
pure personal preference. Like blue vs Red cherry mx, you like clicky clacky or not?
Maybe I need to get into modding mice....
No need to flex on us so hard with that aim test bruh xD. For real tho great upgread imo.
Most well-rounded mouse microswitch comparison video I've seen to date.
Thank you for this.
This is some "bookmark and link to people when they're asking about this topic" material.
that's amazing. heading to aliexpress now :D
Have you found any kailh switches there? I can't seem to find them.
@@SgtRock4445 ebay, or kailh website. they sell directly on ebay though.
www.kailhswitch.com/info/kailh-switches-introduction-list-27266403.html
Kailh GM 2.0 & Huano Blue Shell White Dot are by far the best switches for the G Pro X Superlight.
Please dont get me into another hobby
That’s so real
I upgraded mine to Huano silent switches. So good!
wanna see the most illegal thing i own...
* comes closer *
* whispers * Its my G pro with cherry red switches
Oh no
Oh y e s
Hey man, just wanted to thank you. I spent quite a long time watching videos and researching about switch upgrades. I managed to upgrade my GPX Superlight with Kailh GM 8.0's, definitely better than stock switches for me. Hopefully it lasts a long time.
I love that key sampling you did with the switches on the blue pad! Amazing editing as always.
FYI the TTC Gold switches feel different depending on their click rating. 80M rated TTC Golds are heavier and way easier to spam click due to having a much stronger debounce.
I did this for my son's mouse, he's on a g502 hero, we did the skates and the switches at the same time and OMG it's sooo much better.
This video makes me so happy, I have a logitech g pro sleeping in its box for years because of the double clicking issue, i ordered the kailh gm 2 already, can't wait to revive it
I don’t tell this to a lot of content creators. But, your production quality REALLY deserves more subscribers.
Dude, much respect, soldering in all those switches for this video
Hey @Optimum Tech, thanks for this video. I got myself the GM 8.0 Blacks for my G502 with the annoying double click issue, and it works incredibly well. Got the whole thing back to working in just $20, didn't even solder myself, paid somebody a dollar for it, and could have easily gotten it done in under $10 if not for skates, which I had to import. But in anycase, this is a lot cheaper than having to buy another mouse, and a lot better than having to spend $20 and settle with a worse mouse.
I went for the 8.0's because I didn't want the tight reds, would've liked the 2.0's, but didn't see them being sold. But all in all, I love my mouse now :)
My g502 died, because of this switches
Got inspiered to do this mod, as I had bad double click issues on my left mouse button, and one of the side buttons on my G Pro (wired).
I have GM 8.0's on my left, right and the side buttons now, DEFFENETLY worth it. And the "solder the middle pin first" tip is really good. Another thing i learned is, dont get lead free solder, I was trying to do this with lead free, and it was a horrible first time solder experience, got some 60/40 lead solder and it was waaay easier.
4:10 is a cracked shot, good stuff man
Besides others mouses I own four Logitech M510. Two with old logo, two with new logo. Both old mouses works fine, both new are dead (double-clicks). After disassembling new mouses I found Kailh microswitches inside. Old M510 got Omron D2FC-F-7N. I got also Logitech MX518 with Omron D2FC-F-7N(20M). This mouse went trough 15 years(!!!) of playing Diablo 2 and 3, PoE, WoW and now D2R. You can imagine how many clicks I've made. Mouse is still doing fine and never been even opened. I'm planning to buy some new gaming mouse as soon as this one dies. Seems it will never happen :) With all the respect to your hard work, I'm about to do the same... but in reverse. I've just ordered Omrons D2FC-F7N(20M) and I'm about to replace all Kailh microswitches I've got. Clicking noise? Well, as you see I got other problems than clicking noise :)
I don't think many people have made vids like this, great job
Besides the switch itself, the implementation matters alot. The way its positioned under the mouse button and also the plastic quality the button is made of. Take for example Xtrfy M42, uses Omrons but damn they sound and feel so crisp and snappy.
I've found a piece of tape between the switch and button to help improve the feel of pressing them as well.
man its about the pressure ,feeling, consistency and how much life span a switch has, i prefer subtile mouse micro switches that are silent or dont have too much click in them but have alot of performance , then lube them for extra clicks and its better than an expensive mouse.
I'll add a data point: Much like Logitech mice, the EVGA TORQ series of mice also have Omron switches in them... but! It does make a difference where the switches were manufactured. The included switches in all aforementioned mice were manufactured in China. Omron *does* make good switches which can be sourced on Amazon: Omron's Japan-manufactured switches are not prone to the double-click plague and are quite inexpensive. I have re-switched both of my EVGA Torq X5L mice, both of which began double and mis-clicking in under a year. Both mice are 2 years in with the Japanese Omron switches and are still working great!
For the record, the switches I purchased and installed are Omron D2F-01F switches.
@@kcsmiscvideos218 Been using D2F-01 on my GPW since release, they still work great.
Awesome vid. Ordered a couple different Kailh switches along with some new pads. Can't wait to upgrade it this weekend.
You can reuse glides in 99% of cases if you heat them up long enough. Use a hairdryer and try to move them from side to side until they start to "float". It takes some time but trying to remove glides too early will damage them. To solder - use high heat, but work fast. If something isn't perfect and you want to fix it wait a bit. Overheating a switch can make it melt inside, on cheaper mice pads can fall off. Repairing mice is my hobby, and I usually make 10-15 bucks per mouse which is a nice bonus for something I like doing anyway.
Got inspiration and replaced my G502 wireless switches with Kailh GM 2.0.
The first time I did soldering and the result came out pretty amazing. Really enjoying the new switches and bye-bye to the dreaded double click.
The tutorials must be like this video which explains everything in such an easy way that you get encouragement to do it yourself.
Thanks, Ali for this nice video.
how good are are the gm 2.0 on the g502? i own a g502 hero and the double click is killing me, what switch would you recommend? i just need something that feels nice and solid but also good for fps
@@Grimm98 Like Ali said, switch feel can differ on different mouse bodies.
The Kailh 2.0 I'm using is giving me crisp and accurate clicks. I play FPS and I can single tap any gun on full auto mode.
I haven't tested many switches but I can share that Kailh 2.0 perfectly match the body of 502 hero. You'll love it.
this mans video quality is insane. Amazing thumbnails too
I love to see that different hobbies have different takes on stuff. In engineering. Especially 3d printing omrons are praised like gods. And gaming switches are tossed to the side. But its the opposite in gaming
Thanks. Was able to solve a double clicking SteelSeries Rival 100 mouse by soldering the Kailh GM 2.0s which are just right. A tip for anyone with similar problems. My old switches wouldn't fall out on their own because they were secured too tight. I needed to apply pressure and pry them out at the same time as de-soldering the points.
no offense but you dont need fine soldering tip to solder these micro switches. fine tip actually makes the soldering job much harder as the tip retains too little heat. as a beginner you want a D shape tip as the heat capacity and conductive surface is higher, it will be easier to melt the solder and easier to work with in general. you will only need fine tip on very specific situations such as soldering very fine traces (much finer than the traces you have to deal with for a microswitch. also, get some non acidic soldering flux, it helps the flow of solder.
Also, you can reuse the mouse feet easily (up to once or twice) by heating it up with a air dryer/heat gun (dont over do as it will leave marks on or melt the plastic)
Even better: Use a craft knife to cut holes in the mouse feet where the screws are and never have to remove them again.
finally, hopeful this video gonna kick start the trend of manufactures not putting screws behind the feet.
been doing mice switch for years now, the only M1 switch I would go for is cherry DG4, and recently I am using DG4 for M1 alone side with zf yellow dot switch for M2(well, i prefer a different switch for the M1 and M2. since M1 usually just for a shot and M2 just for ADS)
The DG4 is very short travel and super snappy, crispy yet not too hard like most kaihl switches.
After using this kind switch, going back to Omron 20M is like going back to membrance keyboard. I opened up all my mice without even trying them once right after i get them, coz i know they came with that shit switch from factory anyway.
Finally this trend needs to start. Also more metal body mice need to happen ! not just one !
I straight up hole punched my mouse feet so I can open it up whenever lol
That's exactly the content i wanna see on this channel ! Love it
Paintballers have been swapping switches out since the early 2000s. Pro tip, if you over heat the switch, it only takes a fraction of a second, you can warp the switch, changing the weight and feel, and sometimes ruining the switch, so it helps to use the lowest heat you can to do the solder move if you have an adjustable, or using a small clip to soak heat and protect the switch.
And also use flux
I attempted on an old mouse and fucked up, called up my dad and he said it’s bc no flux the solder doesn’t flow well
Gaming, tech and asmr? killing it, subbed
your crazy in a good way
FYI 2:45 is not enough to unscrew the buttons (At least in my version of the mouse). You must pry out the battery itself (which is glued) to get the two screws that are underneath it. Luckily this also means you dont have to fiddle with the annoying cable.
This man just soldered and desoldered 8 switches just to give us the sound and feel differences. Quality content right here.
Soldering takes next to no time. Soldering isn't as hard as people seem to think it is... My first time soldering something was when I was 6 or 7 years old lol. The first time I touched a soldering iron was when I was 3, and it was the wrong end so I burned myself something fierce 😂
@@HuyV It can be difficult if you can't afford the full soldering kit. I attempted a soldering on my mouse a month ago with just a solder gun, solder iron & a third hand. You know what happens next.
Oh man, I knew you'd go all in if you made a video on this. Thanks for featuring me! It's an honor 🤩
OMG Ali, you genius! I hate the switches on the GPX, so much that I went back to my Viper Ultimate for a while. Thank you so much!
This video made me order some switches to fix the double clicking issue on my G502 Lightspeed that i got RMA'd. Now it works better than ever and i have the replacement as a spare. :)
Dude you just blew my mind i only just got into the custom keyboard scene and im now all about this im soo doing this to my mouse
I do a decent amount of electronics work and I would recommend Solder wick to remove solder it is like using a tissue it adorbs it and comes right off. Also a tiny tiny bit of flux could go a long way if you are also bad at soldering.
Been Using the GM8.0 on my G304/G305 and watching your video made me want to change it into TTC Gold.
As always, thank you very much for the eye-pleasing videos, I wish I could learn more about how you arrange your lighting in a video-recording
How about the change? I just received some GM 8.0
Thanks for dropping all the switch sound test you featured. You da mvp!
if anyone’s going to be buying soldering kit for this- spend your money on good tools, especially the pump (engineer ss-02) and iron (much more variety here, personally i’d recommend ts100 or pinecil, others might recommend more traditional hakko stations). it’s not much of a difference in price, but using it it’s night and day
Buy solder wick... it sucks the solder right out of the PCB.. way easier and cleaner than a sucker.
Amazing video! Thank you for so much detail!!!
I have two G602s which I love because of the 6 thumb buttons (I do CAD for work and having the thumb-button shortcuts is life changing). Unfortunately, the left click switch in one is acting up. When clicking-and-holding-and-dragging, the switch often disengages and then re-engages on its own (without me lifting my finger pressure and there is no audible un-click/re-click). This has caused some HUGE headaches when trying to drag and drop files and folders and the switch decides to release while the cursor is moving over a random folder in File Explorer....
Now I finally have a game plan for getting new switches installed in my mouse and restoring it to its original condition, and maybe even improving on it! I often find myself miss-clicking the right button because the switch pressure is so light, so now I know which switches to buy to solve that problem too!
Thanks again!