My bridge had retaining clips on each screw. Those are what was rattling. I used a toothpick and put woodglue around each retainer. I then carefully wiped any extra glue. It sounded duller till the glue cured, then it was resonant, and didn't rattle anymore, and the saddle screws still turn. Thankyou for posting. Seems to be an issue with these bridges..
Wood glue actually reacts with some metals by causing it to oxidize. I know this because I have a couple of feeler gauges I use to apply glue under loose braces and they were instantly turned black by contact with wood glue and basically made useless as feeler gauges. They are basically glue applicators only at this point. That glue will also require that any time you need to switch the saddles around, you may have to apply heat to the bridge with a soldering iron, small torch etc to melt the glue which will be much tricker to remove than wax since its soluble in water and not oil, meaning it would require submersion for an extended period of time which could also harm the metal. You do you, but I'd advise against the wood glue or any kind of polyvinyl acetate variant.
Great video. My new Gretsch has the retention ring style bridge and this video was the first resource I found that posed a fix rather than just telling me to get a new bridge.
If you have a gretsch with a bigsby, you might consider swapping the bridge out entirely for a Wilkinson roller bridge. They do not have this rattling issue and help maintain tuning.
@@DrewsGuitarShop Graph Tec makes Tusq saddles and nuts that im pretty sure will fix my Bigsby guitar real well... I just discovered it last night, and its gonna cost about $60 to fix it up. I have an issue with another guitar , a buzzing chinese abr style bridge, and thats why i came here..ive actually removed the retention spring on guitars years ago and as long as you dont break a string and lose the saddle on a gig, it eliminates the buzz. The Bigsby is another animal though...when its in tune its wonderful, but when it goes out mid song, a nightmare. But the beeswax tip is a great one, and im gonna try that out. An inexpensive solution to a problem that will drive you to the brink of insanity. Thanks. I subscribed-
Thanks for this. I just built an ES style semi-hollow with a Trapeze tailpiece and could not find the buzz. This is it. Not sure which method I'll use, but great to know the beeswax is an option!
That looks similar to what I did with my Tonepros Tune-o-matic. The saddles buzzed like crazy, so I just put vaseline on the threads and rotated the screws all the way back and forth to ensure maximum coverage, wiped off the excess and it worked a treat. 10 years later the buzz hasn't returned and all it needed was the vaseline, paper towels and a cotton swab. Sure, I had to readjust the intonation, but that wasn't a problem for me.
I got a new Gretsch 5220 Jet and had the same problem. I injected clear silicone into the saddle areas. Works great. I stumbled upon this video afterwards, so I'm not completely nuts.
Thanks for the tip. I have fixed the issue with buzz on my LP with aftermsrket Wilkinson bridge. My tip, no need for taking things apart. Put paper towel under the bridge to protect guitar and cardboard on bridge pickup tp preotect from splash, place wax on the bridge and heat gently woth hear dryer. It is simple and fast fix. :)
You can also cut a small spring into 6 pieces and put them around each screw. They'll keep tension on each saddle so that they won't shake any more. Also solves issues with saddles moving when using a bigsby or some other type of trem.
That is an interesting solution. I like it because it is less messy than what I am doing here, though the mess does clean up pretty well with a little naphtha. I guess one downside might be that it would be a little more finicky getting the spring on the right side to do the adjustments if you needed to push a saddle close to the front or back but that's also workable. I might try this at some point and see how I like it.
@@daleosborn3729 I find very small coil springs in the following: bic style cigarette lighters, long stem candle lighters, small pump sprayers like those used in nasal sprays etc. My wife saves these for me to pull apart. You have to dismantle or cut apart these things after they are empty to get the springs out. Pretty easy with a small wire cutting tool like you would find for a few dollars at harbor fright tool store. I get the lighters at the dollar store, often 2 or 3 pack for a dollar. To store the springs and other tiny parts I keep a small fishing lure box at my bench or you could use a small parts mini-bin with multiple drawers to keep small parts organized. I was never able to find any local hardware store that carried coil springs in small enough sizes for this type of application. Airguns, airsoft guns, and paintball guns use some pretty small springs inside the mechanism for safety levers and such, but are also difficult to source. I just found it easier to use the obtanium method for my small parts. I have been stripping old junk for parts to build stuff since I was a little kid, so it comes naturally to me. ;-). Good luck!
@Dale Osborn While proof reading my own previous reply, I had a small brainstorm. My local hardware has a good selection of neoprene and viton o-rings down to very tiny sizes. I think I will try a single ring or short stack of them over the screws to put a small amount of tension where needed to mute the rattle. Could be a little fiddly to get them in place, but seems like it could be even easier than fitting short, clipped springs into the same space. Also, easier to source than tearing apart a defunct cigar lighter or spray bottle. (I still will bust out the coil springs to use as replacement parts for my antique air rifle collection and other various and sundry mechanisms though). ;-). Hope this helps someone.
I thought I was getting fret buzz after I installed a roller bridge on my Les Paul but it was harmonics generated in the short length of string between the bridge and tailpiece. These roller and tunomatic bridges to some extent are playing harmonics on the string. Notice how Paul Reed Smith bridges have long grooves across the full width of the saddle - this will properly stop the string's vibration passing to the tailpiece-I think it makes a big difference. I made my own brass saddles with a flat top and groove to hold the string across the top and that fixed my weird noises that sounded like buzzing-only on particular notes.
Thanks... found the saddle under my b string on my 339 to be buzzing and went looking for a solution. This is the best video I have found on the subject. Off to the hardware store for beeswax!
Great video, there’s one more TOM type that I would like to point out, where the screws are held by little retaining springs. These spring are just enough lenght, that after putting them into a saddle slot, they don’t let the saddle and screw slip out. They’re basically like a trimmed humbucker springs. Same deal, really. The only downside is they may take up a bit of intonation range, because they never compress to total zero. But they are the easiest to remove and quite genius in their simplicity if you can make your guitar intonation work with them (try flipping saddles - it may help). Also, they’re quiet. Cheers from Poland!
I have seen that mentioned here a few times. I have since tried it and I'll say that while it works the space taken up by the spring is problematic and I also found that it took much longer than what I do here, but if its a preferred method for some, I don't see a problem with it.
I see a lot of ya'll commenting about putting various locktights and glues in your bridges. I wouldn't. Just because something is metal, doesn't mean that things like wood glue won't adhere to it and you do need these parts to move. It's the whole reason for the mechanism that is causing the rattle in the first place. I have gotten instruments in the shop were people did this sort of thing and it is the sort of thing that leads to broken tiny screws, stripped screws, drastic measures to get _____ out of the bridge and bridges that simply aren't salvageable and need to be thrown away. The reason I am using bees wax here is that it is A: Reversible by dissolution via heat or naphtha B: Fills the gaps ***WHILE ALLOWING THE PARTS TO MOVE*** and C: Is non-reactive with the metal. If you Want to use other stuff, I am not telling you you can't, but as a professional who has seen the sort of trouble some of this other stuff can lead to, I would advise against it. If you are uncomfortable using a torch, thats fine. I'll say that if torches hurt this sort of hardware we wouldn't be able to replace the plastic tuner buttons on vintage tuners, because we literally use a torch to melt those on, but I get it. You can use a heat gun or a hair drier too.
Yeah, someone else here mentioned that. Out of the alternatives I have seen people suggest here, that is the one I like the most, though I do think it would be a hell of a lot more hassle. I still might give it a try though.
awesome! i have a wraparound brigde musiclily from amazon with this problem around buzzy saddles, i put wax and awesome results!, thanks i save mi life grettings from mexico
I am pretty sure that the action and intonation have more to do with the setup than the type of bridge, but the no rattle is definitely an improvement on one of these ABR-1s
I got rid of my Sung IL bridge on an LTD EC400VF for a locking Tonpros and a Gotoh aluminum tail and w SD JB and 59 it sounds better than my stock LP Studio now w such a better for me thin u very slender neck compared to a 50s Gibson neck. Couldnt be happier w a singlecut guitar.
I have 4 guitars with Tune-o-matic bridges that are all doing the same thing. Since I'm in Seattle, I may just bring them to you. But, I'm going to try to do one first and see how it goes.
Thats a notion. It would be easy to clean off with lacquer thinner too. I don't know if it would have the same lubricating properties as the wax, but I'll bet that works for buzz and rattles just fine. When you plug that stuff on, have you ever needed to adjust it after?
What about a few drops of light duty 222 or 242 loctite? Work it into the treads with a few turns while setting up intonation. Probably place a sheet of paper under the saddle to protect the paintwork from drips.
There should be a spring in there to keep it from rattling. Also, with the tail piece too low, the strings rest against the saddle frame, this is where the buzzing comes from….raise the tail piece so they’re not resting on it.
You know I did check the tail piece height in the process of diagnosing this and I feel I effectively demonstrated what was causing the issue in this case. What you are describing *is* a source of problems when it occurs though. Not just for buzzing, but also breaking strings and tuning issues and some other things though.
Unfortunately can’t get any wax in my country (the Netherlands) Will candle wax work as well? Having this Epiphone Casino bridge rattle. Already bought a new bridge but it came back a little bit. I hate it since I love playing on it acoustic.
It's the break angle. Find the string with the issue, file the slot better and down and away from the break point, be sure it's not a flat slot but a V seating, end of.
I’ve got a buzz in an old Framus I’ve traced to the original roller bridge made with sloppy tolerances. I’m hoping this video might at least give me ideas for an easy fix. I might try a bit of paraffin and a heat gun.
Can this repair be done with the tuner on the guitar or do you always recommend removing it to do it? I would use a lighter to melt the wax so as not to get close to the finish on the guitar.
I've never really had an issue with it. The way I use the torch is at low temp (propane turned down to a small cone) and with quick passes. You could use butane which burns even cooler than that if you are worried.
I have buzz on an Epiphone Casino and one thing that struck me is that 3 of the saddles face one way and 3 the other way. Normally I would think that the flat side has to face up against the PUs. Is that correct?
That tail piece is way too low. If you lower it tonthe body like that, its for wrap around. The way your guitar is set up, its a recipe for bad tuning.
Just an opinion, but this is really dumb for a $2k+ guitar. 6 months into owning a new Les Paul to deal with this, really they need to fix this stuff in the factory. Why are we spending this much money on such dumb issues on a guitar with 70 years of history. Great video tho, thank you for the tips.
Brother, there are things that just about every single guitar company put out of their factories that drive me nuts because it's stuff like this. Name just about any brand and I can tell you something they do that drives repair shops and players nuts that they keep doing even though it's been a known problem.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m very happy I found this video. Fixed my buzz on an almost BRAND NEW epiphone Sheraton.
great tip, worked well on my buzz-o-matic!
Great easy tip and trick, now to fix my new tine-o-matic.
My bridge had retaining clips on each screw. Those are what was rattling.
I used a toothpick and put woodglue around each retainer. I then carefully wiped any extra glue. It sounded duller till the glue cured, then it was resonant, and didn't rattle anymore, and the saddle screws still turn.
Thankyou for posting. Seems to be an issue with these bridges..
Wood glue actually reacts with some metals by causing it to oxidize. I know this because I have a couple of feeler gauges I use to apply glue under loose braces and they were instantly turned black by contact with wood glue and basically made useless as feeler gauges. They are basically glue applicators only at this point. That glue will also require that any time you need to switch the saddles around, you may have to apply heat to the bridge with a soldering iron, small torch etc to melt the glue which will be much tricker to remove than wax since its soluble in water and not oil, meaning it would require submersion for an extended period of time which could also harm the metal. You do you, but I'd advise against the wood glue or any kind of polyvinyl acetate variant.
Great video. My new Gretsch has the retention ring style bridge and this video was the first resource I found that posed a fix rather than just telling me to get a new bridge.
If you have a gretsch with a bigsby, you might consider swapping the bridge out entirely for a Wilkinson roller bridge. They do not have this rattling issue and help maintain tuning.
@@DrewsGuitarShop Graph Tec makes Tusq saddles and nuts that im pretty sure will fix my Bigsby guitar real well...
I just discovered it last night, and its gonna cost about $60 to fix it up.
I have an issue with another guitar , a buzzing chinese abr style bridge, and thats why i came here..ive actually removed the retention spring on guitars years ago and as long as you dont break a string and lose the saddle on a gig, it eliminates the buzz.
The Bigsby is another animal though...when its in tune its wonderful, but when it goes out mid song, a nightmare.
But the beeswax tip is a great one, and im gonna try that out.
An inexpensive solution to a problem that will drive you to the brink of insanity.
Thanks.
I subscribed-
Thank you for walking us through this. Subscribed
Thanks for this. I just built an ES style semi-hollow with a Trapeze tailpiece and could not find the buzz. This is it. Not sure which method I'll use, but great to know the beeswax is an option!
Non-purment lock tight works great! Thanks 🤘
That looks similar to what I did with my Tonepros Tune-o-matic.
The saddles buzzed like crazy, so I just put vaseline on the threads and rotated the screws all the way back and forth to ensure maximum coverage, wiped off the excess and it worked a treat. 10 years later the buzz hasn't returned and all it needed was the vaseline, paper towels and a cotton swab. Sure, I had to readjust the intonation, but that wasn't a problem for me.
I got a new Gretsch 5220 Jet and had the same problem. I injected clear silicone into the saddle areas. Works great. I stumbled upon this video afterwards, so I'm not completely nuts.
Just wondering, were there any gotchas with using clear silicone? Like maybe affecting the range or ease of movement of the individual saddle?
A small piece of foam under the screw stops any squeaking and buzz
Thanks for the tip.
I have fixed the issue with buzz on my LP with aftermsrket Wilkinson bridge.
My tip, no need for taking things apart. Put paper towel under the bridge to protect guitar and cardboard on bridge pickup tp preotect from splash, place wax on the bridge and heat gently woth hear dryer. It is simple and fast fix. :)
You can also cut a small spring into 6 pieces and put them around each screw. They'll keep tension on each saddle so that they won't shake any more. Also solves issues with saddles moving when using a bigsby or some other type of trem.
That is an interesting solution. I like it because it is less messy than what I am doing here, though the mess does clean up pretty well with a little naphtha. I guess one downside might be that it would be a little more finicky getting the spring on the right side to do the adjustments if you needed to push a saddle close to the front or back but that's also workable. I might try this at some point and see how I like it.
Where would I get the right size spring?
@@daleosborn3729 I find very small coil springs in the following: bic style cigarette lighters, long stem candle lighters, small pump sprayers like those used in nasal sprays etc. My wife saves these for me to pull apart. You have to dismantle or cut apart these things after they are empty to get the springs out. Pretty easy with a small wire cutting tool like you would find for a few dollars at harbor fright tool store. I get the lighters at the dollar store, often 2 or 3 pack for a dollar. To store the springs and other tiny parts I keep a small fishing lure box at my bench or you could use a small parts mini-bin with multiple drawers to keep small parts organized. I was never able to find any local hardware store that carried coil springs in small enough sizes for this type of application. Airguns, airsoft guns, and paintball guns use some pretty small springs inside the mechanism for safety levers and such, but are also difficult to source. I just found it easier to use the obtanium method for my small parts. I have been stripping old junk for parts to build stuff since I was a little kid, so it comes naturally to me. ;-). Good luck!
@Dale Osborn While proof reading my own previous reply, I had a small brainstorm. My local hardware has a good selection of neoprene and viton o-rings down to very tiny sizes. I think I will try a single ring or short stack of them over the screws to put a small amount of tension where needed to mute the rattle. Could be a little fiddly to get them in place, but seems like it could be even easier than fitting short, clipped springs into the same space. Also, easier to source than tearing apart a defunct cigar lighter or spray bottle. (I still will bust out the coil springs to use as replacement parts for my antique air rifle collection and other various and sundry mechanisms though). ;-). Hope this helps someone.
Total game changer for my brand new Les Paul. Awesomesauce 🔥
I thought I was getting fret buzz after I installed a roller bridge on my Les Paul but it was harmonics generated in the short length of string between the bridge and tailpiece. These roller and tunomatic bridges to some extent are playing harmonics on the string. Notice how Paul Reed Smith bridges have long grooves across the full width of the saddle - this will properly stop the string's vibration passing to the tailpiece-I think it makes a big difference. I made my own brass saddles with a flat top and groove to hold the string across the top and that fixed my weird noises that sounded like buzzing-only on particular notes.
Run a small piece of painters tape on edge of bridge before you melt the wax, then peel, no streaks, no mess
Thanks... found the saddle under my b string on my 339 to be buzzing and went looking for a solution. This is the best video I have found on the subject. Off to the hardware store for beeswax!
Great video, there’s one more TOM type that I would like to point out, where the screws are held by little retaining springs. These spring are just enough lenght, that after putting them into a saddle slot, they don’t let the saddle and screw slip out. They’re basically like a trimmed humbucker springs. Same deal, really. The only downside is they may take up a bit of intonation range, because they never compress to total zero. But they are the easiest to remove and quite genius in their simplicity if you can make your guitar intonation work with them (try flipping saddles - it may help). Also, they’re quiet. Cheers from Poland!
I have seen that mentioned here a few times. I have since tried it and I'll say that while it works the space taken up by the spring is problematic and I also found that it took much longer than what I do here, but if its a preferred method for some, I don't see a problem with it.
Brilliant!
Thanks a lot, the rattle was really bugging me
I see a lot of ya'll commenting about putting various locktights and glues in your bridges. I wouldn't. Just because something is metal, doesn't mean that things like wood glue won't adhere to it and you do need these parts to move. It's the whole reason for the mechanism that is causing the rattle in the first place. I have gotten instruments in the shop were people did this sort of thing and it is the sort of thing that leads to broken tiny screws, stripped screws, drastic measures to get _____ out of the bridge and bridges that simply aren't salvageable and need to be thrown away. The reason I am using bees wax here is that it is A: Reversible by dissolution via heat or naphtha B: Fills the gaps ***WHILE ALLOWING THE PARTS TO MOVE*** and C: Is non-reactive with the metal. If you Want to use other stuff, I am not telling you you can't, but as a professional who has seen the sort of trouble some of this other stuff can lead to, I would advise against it. If you are uncomfortable using a torch, thats fine. I'll say that if torches hurt this sort of hardware we wouldn't be able to replace the plastic tuner buttons on vintage tuners, because we literally use a torch to melt those on, but I get it. You can use a heat gun or a hair drier too.
I got a pickup height spring, cut it to size and sleeved the screw. That help it in place nicely and nothing rattled.
Yeah, someone else here mentioned that. Out of the alternatives I have seen people suggest here, that is the one I like the most, though I do think it would be a hell of a lot more hassle. I still might give it a try though.
awesome! i have a wraparound brigde musiclily from amazon with this problem around buzzy saddles, i put wax and awesome results!, thanks i save mi life grettings from mexico
I am glad it was helpful :)
TonePros System II (T3BT). No any rattle, no any loose parts. Perfect action, tone&intonation.
I am pretty sure that the action and intonation have more to do with the setup than the type of bridge, but the no rattle is definitely an improvement on one of these ABR-1s
So after wax treatment you leave the retaining wire off, correct?
Dude saved me soo much work on my bridge! Absolute legend!!
I got rid of my Sung IL bridge on an LTD EC400VF for a locking Tonpros and a Gotoh aluminum tail and w SD JB and 59 it sounds better than my stock LP Studio now w such a better for me thin u very slender neck compared to a 50s Gibson neck. Couldnt be happier w a singlecut guitar.
Great video. Was wondering what that awful buzz was on my guitar.
Clever
on ABR! the spring needs a little bend so it snugs against the screws
Loctite 243 frenafiletti medio blu
My Gretsch 5622T is buzzing like a bee! I'm doing this tonight!
Thank you.
I have 4 guitars with Tune-o-matic bridges that are all doing the same thing. Since I'm in Seattle, I may just bring them to you. But, I'm going to try to do one first and see how it goes.
I'd be happy to get the work if it comes to that, but I wish you luck doing it yourself. That is why I put these videos out there.
@@DrewsGuitarShop Cheers! Thank you for doing so.
Great idea and work.
Cool idea, might try it on a Gotoh bridge that buzzes on the wound strings on some notes. So you fixed the Buzz with Buzzy bees stuff ;)
I use my wife's clear nail polish. Small drop on the end of a toothpick and put it between the saddle & adjusting screw, done.
Thats a notion. It would be easy to clean off with lacquer thinner too. I don't know if it would have the same lubricating properties as the wax, but I'll bet that works for buzz and rattles just fine. When you plug that stuff on, have you ever needed to adjust it after?
@@DrewsGuitarShop Yes, just a very small amount and I haven’t had an issue adjusting after. The key is don’t get carried away by adding to much.
What about a few drops of light duty 222 or 242 loctite? Work it into the treads with a few turns while setting up intonation. Probably place a sheet of paper under the saddle to protect the paintwork from drips.
See pinned comment
Thank you❤
My $850 les paul style schecter has never had any issues. Amazing how less money can get you better stuff nowadays
Schecter is a solid guitar.
awesome bro, thanks for share ;)
How can i fix a tunomatic that cut the strings?
I have a video about that.
I could see someone playing an outdoor show and they’re wondering why they’re being swarmed buy a colony of Africanized Killer Bees. 😜😆🤣😂
You're giving me flashbacks to the 90s.
But the dancing around to avoid the killer bees might do wonders for your stagecraft image! ;-)
I’m thinking I’ll just get a roller saddle matic. I’m keeping the roller matic if I sell my gibson tho
There should be a spring in there to keep it from rattling. Also, with the tail piece too low, the strings rest against the saddle frame, this is where the buzzing comes from….raise the tail piece so they’re not resting on it.
You know I did check the tail piece height in the process of diagnosing this and I feel I effectively demonstrated what was causing the issue in this case. What you are describing *is* a source of problems when it occurs though. Not just for buzzing, but also breaking strings and tuning issues and some other things though.
Unfortunately can’t get any wax in my country (the Netherlands)
Will candle wax work as well?
Having this Epiphone Casino bridge rattle. Already bought a new bridge but it came back a little bit. I hate it since I love playing on it acoustic.
My new Casino brought me here as well. Hope you get yours resolved.
Me too. bought in May of '21. My Casino sounds like a sitar sometimes! watching this to hopefully fix it. we'll see i guess. Cheap parts, cheap paint.
I'd be cautious. There are often scents and other additives in that wax. Can you nut order screw wax over amazon or eBay or is that a customs problem?
We can probably use blue locktite and apply directly into the threads no?
Its not the threads that are causing the buzz usually.
I put some tape and cork pads to cushion the buzz
Cool Ive got thad that dreaded Buzz cheers
Its suuuuuuper common on tunomatics. Between the bridges and the 3 way switches, Gibsons and similar are prone to these little buzzes and rattles.
I've never encountered that issue with an abr1. Most all my Gibsons have them.
I do this for a living, so I see a loooot of guitars. Not all do this. It is a common problem but not endemic to the design.
Used the wax, thanks for this!!
Glad it helped.
@@DrewsGuitarShop I have one of those grote 335 copies, the bridge is awful but with the wax it’ll do!
It's the break angle. Find the string with the issue, file the slot better and down and away from the break point, be sure it's not a flat slot but a V seating, end of.
V shaped slots will pinch and can cut strings. It's better to cut the slots with nut files.
I wonder if dielectric grease (thick grease), like permatex would work to stop the rattle.
You could try it as long as its cleanable and safe for the part.
would dry bike chain lube work in place of bees wax + heat ?
I don't know. I know that what I show here works.
I’ve got a buzz in an old Framus I’ve traced to the original roller bridge made with sloppy tolerances. I’m hoping this video might at least give me ideas for an easy fix. I might try a bit of paraffin and a heat gun.
If you can get pure paraffin, that might do the trick. I would just avoid any candles since there are often additives that could be reactive.
Can this repair be done with the tuner on the guitar or do you always recommend removing it to do it? I would use a lighter to melt the wax so as not to get close to the finish on the guitar.
DO NOT TAKE AN OPEN FLAME OF ANY KIND TO YOUR GUITAR. Take the part off, and do it as shown here.
I'd prolly opt in for using a heat air gun on gold plated bridge
I'm a bit squeamish when it comes to torching my customers Gibson Les Paul
I've never really had an issue with it. The way I use the torch is at low temp (propane turned down to a small cone) and with quick passes. You could use butane which burns even cooler than that if you are worried.
I have buzz on an Epiphone Casino and one thing that struck me is that 3 of the saddles face one way and 3 the other way. Normally I would think that the flat side
has to face up against the PUs. Is that correct?
No, you turn them any way you need to in order to intonate the string correctly.
Gibson have had how many years to iron out this design problem?
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
How about letting a candel drip in instead of hard bees wax?It will do the same thing?
A lot of candles have weird additives in them for scent and stuff and paraffin wax isn't quite as good at dampening the rattle.
clever use of wax!
it works well as a filler and a lubricant in many situations I find.
When Malmsteen presents his Fender and plays them unamplified they sound the same.
Shouldn’t the screws be facing the pickups? Stewmac says it should😏😏
Where the screws face is actually completely unimportant as long as you can reach them and the bridge can be intonated.
@@DrewsGuitarShop True that.
That bridge is actually on backwards
Mind your beeswax 😂
Really hear it on the “G” string.
I’m lazy I buy roller bridges
That tail piece is way too low. If you lower it tonthe body like that, its for wrap around. The way your guitar is set up, its a recipe for bad tuning.
So dry..."i like shop towels"
Why is the bridge in a reversed position? No offense but that doesnt seem so professional...
It's common to see both orientations.
Just an opinion, but this is really dumb for a $2k+ guitar. 6 months into owning a new Les Paul to deal with this, really they need to fix this stuff in the factory. Why are we spending this much money on such dumb issues on a guitar with 70 years of history. Great video tho, thank you for the tips.
Brother, there are things that just about every single guitar company put out of their factories that drive me nuts because it's stuff like this. Name just about any brand and I can tell you something they do that drives repair shops and players nuts that they keep doing even though it's been a known problem.