I've just bought an original tuneomatic bridge and was surprised that they are not carved. Your video explains it very good and makes it easy to do it myself. Thanks!
But remember - it IS important which way the screw heads are facing IF - 1) You bought a new guitar and it's the first time you are changing the strings, typically you want to put the bridge back on the SAME way you took it off. 2) If you bought the new bridge and installed it, make sure every time you take it off that it is put back on the same way as when you took it off. There are some bridges that are sold already prenotched and on some of those the notches match the string size, meaning the notch for the low E is much larger for the one for the high e so putting it on backwards the high might sit too low and/or the low E might not stay in place since the notch is not large enough for it to fit into. When I changed the strings for the first time on my Gibson I kept having issues with tuning and the intonation was WAY off after restringing it. Then while talking with someone online he asked me if I put the bridge back on the same way Gibson had done it, I said the screw heads were pointing towards the tailpiece and then he told me what my problem might be so I checked the slots on top of the bridge and sure enough, the low E was barely hanging on and the high was buried inside the slot. It made sense to me to put the screws heads that since the pickup was up and it was harder to get to the screw heads with them on that side, oops. lol
Fair point. A lot of tunomatics have much more consistent slots in them, so you really only need to re-intonate if you flip the bridge around so that your lengths are right.
@@BradAngove right, so long as you put it back on the way you took it off, once it's been set up on a guitar that is, then you are fine. A brand new one, especially one that has not been slotted, it doesn't really matter unless it was slotted for the strings to be placed a specific way.
This is great. I've had an LP style for a few months now and haven't given a moment's thought to the bridge. Had no idea how the tuneomatic works. Thanks.
No, do not just hold the bridge and notch the nuts (saddles) freehand. String the guitar. Bring it close to tune. very accurately space the strings relative to the neck. Mark the string positions (two marks per bridge nut, both sides of each string). Then notch the center between each pair of marks. You will now have exactly the string placement for optimal fingerboard alignment and feel.
lots of important info was not included. String spacing, slot depth, which way saddle should face. me , I like the flat side of saddle facing nut to make for a more better take off point.
Thanks for sharing. I bought a Gibson bridge recently and it wasn’t slotted. I thought they sold me a bad one. I tried a roller bridge as a replacement from StewMac and I actually love it. I guess I have a extra bridge laying around. If you ever get the opportunity try a roller bridge you might enjoy it or maybe not. It’s not better or worse to me but a feel thing for muting and picking.
The saddle does have a rough radius, but make no mistake that radius often times is for shit and needs to be corrected by filing the slots against a radius gage. I’m working on one right now.
It does matter how the tune o matic bridge is faced. Your string break angle will press on the retention clips instead of forcing the screws in the round pinholes ,with a Nashville Style bridge. On an ABR-1 facing the wrong way the break angle might lift the saddle out or has the force directed on the long retention bracket! Intonation is Extremly Important. Gibson Places these Bridges in a those directions for a reason.
Where can I find a bridge that measures 2 11/16 from post to post? It's 68.26 MM size. My guitar has a Eko hagstrom tremolo. They think my guitar is a Goya but the headstock is shaped differently and someone put a Gibson logo on it. It's definitely not a Gibson and all sides point to Japanese made.
Nice job man. I had a similar bridge in my guitar ESP LTD AX-50. But I was breaking too many B, G and even Low E strings with it and was loosing intonation. So I replaced it with TOM roller bridge. Now I rarely break strings since last 2 years and intonation is much better also. But... I don't get the bell like harmonics. Well, I play with distortion mostly but I still miss them. The notched bridge is still kept as it was. Sometimes they have a strange strong wire over all intonation screws and it makes them hard to adjust the intonation. I guess the pre-intonated bridges come for Les Paul. It does not always give the same results with X shaped guitars like mine. Keep on the good work. Best wishes from India.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply, actually it was the truss rod, I was originally worried because it seemed to be very tight, but decided to wait until the next day and for whatever reason allowed me a good almost "half a turn" and that did the trick. thanks again...
Another banger Brad. I finally decided to do a full build start to finish. I landed on a nice piece of mahogany. Coincidentally I’ve already got the quilted maple veneer...your ultimate SG series in combo with this checks all the boxes I need. I’m going weird and making my version of a PRS 22, 7 string. I’m willing to tackle everything in the job except putting binding on and your SG series gave me a perfectly affordable option that I think will end up looking better anyway. However I will accentuate the top a bit more than your clients SG. Beautiful guitar by the way. Great job on all of your projects and I look forward to more! Especially the build off 🤘
No chance of buzz where? The saddle slope shouldn't really matter as long as you have a good intonation point and you set your stop tail height accordingly.
Maybe you could help me...I am looking to replace saddle intonation screws with allen/hex head screws for easier access setting intonation.Any ideas where I can find these screws.I've contacted many companies-seems like I'm on my own.IMHO It would help a lot of us out & probably sell well.Great videos Thank You.
For your next Gibson style build you should use and install a real ABR-1 Bridge. That would allow you to locate the bridge support rod locations, thread them into the guitar's top and then intonate the guitar. Can't say that I've seen many ABR-1 bridges used on new builds, that is a shame too as they do offer a little bit better vibration transfer from the bridge to body. Also, typically a real ABR-1 bridge is manufactured from a little bit better metal/alloy as compared to a Nashville style Tuneomatic bridges that are so common and imported.
Hey Brad. I bought a Les Paul copy (Firefly) and the Tune-O-Matic bridge won't intonate. I have to put all the saddles forward (toward the pickups) as far as they will go. Some strings are ok while others are still flat (like the A string). Is it that the T-O-M was orientated too far back? or is it a nut problem? Neck relief is .010 (Gibson specs) and I have my string height at 1.6mm. So, it's not that. I'm really at a loss as to what to do. It's too late to return it. I replaced the bridge with a roller bridge and thanks to the slow USPS, it took forever to get here. So, I missed my return window. Is there any way to fix the issue?
@@BradAngove Distance between the nut and the middle of the 12th fret is 1 foot and 1/16th. The distance from the middle of the 12th to the bridge is 1 foot and 9/16th.
@@BradAngove Also, when I measured the distance, I measured to the middle of the 2 metal frets on the 12th - not to the metal itself. That would probably be another 1/4". So, that would make it 1 foot 5/16 to the metal of the 12th.
Very informative video! Are there any tuneomatic bridge designs to accommodate a 9.5" radius neck? What would you recommend if I wanted to replace the bridge on my Strat with a tuneomatic-looking bridge? I love their look.
I would think there are 9.5 radius options. Lots of companies make versions of these. I’m about to do an install with one from babicz that looks like it might be adjustable for radius.
Thanks man! Btw, my bridge and stoptail posts do not sit flat on my semi-hollow top. Is that normal or something to be worried about? I mean the top of semihollow itself is kind a bowed right, so I thought this should be normal, but I saw a review somewhere in the net saying they are not good. Can you please enlighten me on this?
As long as they are in there firmly and don’t move I wouldn’t be worried about it. People believe a lot of stuff about what is “not good” on a guitar, and realistically very little of it is actually true.
@@BradAngove Hi Brad! Thank you very much! Appreciate it, I'm now less worried.. 😌Btw, it is a 2nd hand Sire H7, and just bought it today for a good price. Happy playing! 😁
Nice explanation, thank you. I would have gotten into the orientation of the adjustment screws in a little more detail for those followers who perhaps aren't familiar with Gibson bridges. (To me, the first thing I look at on any guitar is the bridge.)
Hi Brad, super video dude. I am getting a TunePros TP7 for my first ever build. I'm doing an 18 inch radius but the model comes with a 14 inch radius. Any advice on reworking this? Cheers, Ade.
Very interesting. I don’t have any advice on that because I’ve never seen it done. My wild thought though is to adjust the string groove depth in the bridge and use the radii gauge on the strings to get it right, with the center strings having the deepest grooves and then an intermediate groove in the A and B strings to level them all off a bit.
Brad walks up to random people and tells them he has a Tune-O-Matic bridge to sell them. They look him in the eye, then pound the like and subscribe buttons.
Probably, easier to start off the slot by placing a set of cheap strings over the saddles and hammer it with a fret hammer. This should put dents onto the saddles.
Pro tip: if your tom is buzzing, you can use little rubber bands to hold the intonation screws . If the saddle is buzzing, unscrew it, stick a little piece of rubberband in the hole, re screw. It works
The way they mount in the guitar. The ABR-1 style you screw the posts that the bridge sits on directly into the wood of the guitar, the thumbwheel is then rolled down and then the bridge is set on top of the thumbwheel so it can be adjusted. The Nashville style they put a bushing into the wood of the guitar on each side then the post bolts which have the thumbwheel as part of that bolt (meaning the thumb wheel cannot be removed from the bolt) those screw into those bushings and the bridge then sits on top with each post through the holes on the ends. Basically the ABR1 is the OLD way and the Nashville is the more modern way. The ABR1 posts screw directly into the wood while the Nashville screw into a bushing on each end - make sense? The thumb wheel on the ABR1 is a separate piece and must be threaded on to the post before sitting the bridge on.
Brad. I am toying with an idea. Probably been done before but I haven’t seen one anywhere. A through telecaster, with bigsby vibrato pick up plate, bridge saddle and gibson tail piece. Will it work? Great videos as usual.
Bugger! (erm, thanks Brad)! now I`ve no idea whether my saddles should forwards or backwards! guess I`ll have to figure that one out for myself (man, this guitar thing aint easy)! but thanks anyway.
Hey man, just want to thank you for all your work - saved me a lot of research during my final year of university! Really appreciate it. Just wanted to ask a question, what are your thoughts on using a wraparound bridge vs a tune-o-matic? I am building a les paul and I am using your guides to do the finish and hardware etc. Thanks!
Wraparound bridges are good. I haven’t used them much, but they’re a solid option, and some people think the added contact and lessened string length is a good thing. Its just a matter of preference really.
Some people prefer additional string tension, some don't. If your bridge fails because of your stop tail height, you should be looking at decent quality bridges.
@@BradAngove Sorry. You're wrong. I've repaired dozens of Gibsons with collapsed bridges due to the stop tail being tightened all the way or too far down. It's not a matter of the quality of the bridge. It's simple physics of the torque being applied to the fulcrum of that cast part.
i respectfully disagree about it not mattering about the Hight of the stop bar. well you did mention that you do not want the strings to contact the back of the bridge because of pressure points on the strings which is one hundred percent correct but it is also important not to have the stop bar to low because with it being low it creates excessive tension on the bridge and over time it can cause the center of your bridge to collapse causing you to have string buzz on the d and g strings
@@BradAngove no problem I just thought I'd share some valuable information to help people avoid damaging their tunematic Bridges I've never damaged mine but I happen to stumble across videos of others that have had it damaged the other benefit of having your Stop Bar up high instead of low is you reduce the tensions on the strings and can give yourself a real nice Slinky feel and reduce the stiffness in the strings that is if that's the kind of feel you like some people like to have the strings stiff so it's all on perspective
Cant lie i hate tuneomatics just because I rest my hand on the corner of the bridge and it is way too sharp. It might just be my bridge but still it really bothers me
so these saddles that are soooo easy to get out and turn around... how come for the life in me i cant get mine out to turn around?? talk about a half assed video...
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
So this answered my question about the fret buzz on my new explorer copy thank you!
I've just bought an original tuneomatic bridge and was surprised that they are not carved. Your video explains it very good and makes it easy to do it myself. Thanks!
Glad I could help.
But remember - it IS important which way the screw heads are facing IF - 1) You bought a new guitar and it's the first time you are changing the strings, typically you want to put the bridge back on the SAME way you took it off. 2) If you bought the new bridge and installed it, make sure every time you take it off that it is put back on the same way as when you took it off. There are some bridges that are sold already prenotched and on some of those the notches match the string size, meaning the notch for the low E is much larger for the one for the high e so putting it on backwards the high might sit too low and/or the low E might not stay in place since the notch is not large enough for it to fit into.
When I changed the strings for the first time on my Gibson I kept having issues with tuning and the intonation was WAY off after restringing it. Then while talking with someone online he asked me if I put the bridge back on the same way Gibson had done it, I said the screw heads were pointing towards the tailpiece and then he told me what my problem might be so I checked the slots on top of the bridge and sure enough, the low E was barely hanging on and the high was buried inside the slot. It made sense to me to put the screws heads that since the pickup was up and it was harder to get to the screw heads with them on that side, oops. lol
Fair point. A lot of tunomatics have much more consistent slots in them, so you really only need to re-intonate if you flip the bridge around so that your lengths are right.
@@BradAngove right, so long as you put it back on the way you took it off, once it's been set up on a guitar that is, then you are fine. A brand new one, especially one that has not been slotted, it doesn't really matter unless it was slotted for the strings to be placed a specific way.
@@alabamahebrew Oh Ron................
I was told to look at the ramps on the saddles and these go towards the stop piece or through body ferrules. The screws face towards the pickups.
This is great. I've had an LP style for a few months now and haven't given a moment's thought to the bridge. Had no idea how the tuneomatic works. Thanks.
Glad I could help.
No, do not just hold the bridge and notch the nuts (saddles) freehand. String the guitar. Bring it close to tune. very accurately space the strings relative to the neck. Mark the string positions (two marks per bridge nut, both sides of each string). Then notch the center between each pair of marks. You will now have exactly the string placement for optimal fingerboard alignment and feel.
lots of important info was not included. String spacing, slot depth, which way saddle should face. me , I like the flat side of saddle facing nut to make for a more better take off point.
Thank God I never had to notch a bridge, more ways to screw up than not
Thanks for sharing. I bought a Gibson bridge recently and it wasn’t slotted. I thought they sold me a bad one. I tried a roller bridge as a replacement from StewMac and I actually love it. I guess I have a extra bridge laying around. If you ever get the opportunity try a roller bridge you might enjoy it or maybe not. It’s not better or worse to me but a feel thing for muting and picking.
I like roller bridges too. They’re a quality option.
Brad, thank you for these insights. We're using
a tune o matic for the first time here, and this
is very helpful, bro! Rock on...
Glad I could help
The saddle does have a rough radius, but make no mistake that radius often times is for shit and needs to be corrected by filing the slots against a radius gage. I’m working on one right now.
You absolutely nailed this. Thank you greatly. Best wishes. Subed and liked
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
It does matter how the tune o matic bridge is faced. Your string break angle will press on the retention clips instead of forcing the screws in the round pinholes ,with a Nashville Style bridge. On an ABR-1 facing the wrong way the break angle might lift the saddle out or has the force directed on the long retention bracket! Intonation is Extremly Important. Gibson Places these Bridges in a those directions for a reason.
Where can I find a bridge that measures 2 11/16 from post to post? It's 68.26 MM size. My guitar has a Eko hagstrom tremolo. They think my guitar is a Goya but the headstock is shaped differently and someone put a Gibson logo on it. It's definitely not a Gibson and all sides point to Japanese made.
Thank you bro, much appreciated. Great video man.
Thanks Jovan
@@BradAngove Always bro 🤘
Nice job man.
I had a similar bridge in my guitar ESP LTD AX-50. But I was breaking too many B, G and even Low E strings with it and was loosing intonation. So I replaced it with TOM roller bridge. Now I rarely break strings since last 2 years and intonation is much better also. But...
I don't get the bell like harmonics. Well, I play with distortion mostly but I still miss them. The notched bridge is still kept as it was. Sometimes they have a strange strong wire over all intonation screws and it makes them hard to adjust the intonation.
I guess the pre-intonated bridges come for Les Paul. It does not always give the same results with X shaped guitars like mine.
Keep on the good work. Best wishes from India.
I have the epiphone Lucille that has:
Bridge: LockTone Tune-O-Matic
Tailpiece: TP-6 Fine Tuning Bridge
Can you tell me how to set this up please?
Wanted to lower the action on the bridge, seems like it was already down as far as it goes, any suggestions?
Are you sure the issue is with the bridge rather than the truss rod?
If so, is it set neck or bolt on?
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply, actually it was the truss rod, I was originally worried because it seemed to be very tight, but decided to wait until the next day and for whatever reason allowed me a good almost "half a turn" and that did the trick.
thanks again...
@richb7665 glad to hear it worked.
Another banger Brad. I finally decided to do a full build start to finish. I landed on a nice piece of mahogany. Coincidentally I’ve already got the quilted maple veneer...your ultimate SG series in combo with this checks all the boxes I need. I’m going weird and making my version of a PRS 22, 7 string. I’m willing to tackle everything in the job except putting binding on and your SG series gave me a perfectly affordable option that I think will end up looking better anyway. However I will accentuate the top a bit more than your clients SG. Beautiful guitar by the way. Great job on all of your projects and I look forward to more! Especially the build off 🤘
Thanks Aaron. I'm glad the series was helpful for you and I hope your build goes well.
Nice vid-but I have to question notching the saddles free-hand.
Pretty thorough as always!
Glad you think so!
Great video. Answered slot of question. Cheers.🤘
Glad to hear it.
ANGLES ON MY GIBSON, TOKAI, DBZ AND CHARVEL ALL SLOPE TOWARD THE STOPTAIL, THUS NO CHANCE OF BUZZ OR GHOSTING AS THEY DROP STRAIGHT FOR INTONATION ?
No chance of buzz where? The saddle slope shouldn't really matter as long as you have a good intonation point and you set your stop tail height accordingly.
How do you covert a stratocaster bridge w/tremblo to a tuno'matic bridge w/stop bar?
That would involve quite a bit of woodwork.
Thanks for your prompt reply.
Maybe you could help me...I am looking to replace saddle intonation screws with allen/hex head screws for easier access setting intonation.Any ideas where I can find these screws.I've contacted many companies-seems like I'm on my own.IMHO It would help a lot of us out & probably sell well.Great videos Thank You.
I’m not sure where you would get that
For your next Gibson style build you should use and install a real ABR-1 Bridge.
That would allow you to locate the bridge support rod locations, thread them into the guitar's top and then intonate the guitar.
Can't say that I've seen many ABR-1 bridges used on new builds, that is a shame too as they do offer a little bit better vibration transfer from the bridge to body.
Also, typically a real ABR-1 bridge is manufactured from a little bit better metal/alloy as compared to a Nashville style Tuneomatic bridges that are so common and imported.
Hey Brad. I bought a Les Paul copy (Firefly) and the Tune-O-Matic bridge won't intonate. I have to put all the saddles forward (toward the pickups) as far as they will go. Some strings are ok while others are still flat (like the A string). Is it that the T-O-M was orientated too far back? or is it a nut problem? Neck relief is .010 (Gibson specs) and I have my string height at 1.6mm. So, it's not that. I'm really at a loss as to what to do. It's too late to return it. I replaced the bridge with a roller bridge and thanks to the slow USPS, it took forever to get here. So, I missed my return window. Is there any way to fix the issue?
Have you checked how the distance from nut to 12th fret and 12th fret to bridge compare? Are they essentially the same?
@@BradAngove Distance between the nut and the middle of the 12th fret is 1 foot and 1/16th. The distance from the middle of the 12th to the bridge is 1 foot and 9/16th.
@@BradAngove My guess is that the bridge is going to have to be relocated at least 1/4 inch to 5/8 closer to the nut.
@@BradAngove Also, when I measured the distance, I measured to the middle of the 2 metal frets on the 12th - not to the metal itself. That would probably be another 1/4". So, that would make it 1 foot 5/16 to the metal of the 12th.
Wouldn’t that make both of them 1ft and 5/16 then? It’s supposed to be right to the crown of the 12th fret.
Do tune o matic bridges make down tuning a pain in the ass like a floyd rose? Like does it lock
No, they don’t float like a Floyd so they’re more stable.
Very informative video
Wow, I am so early 🕒 by the way keep it up very informative, video
Thank you! Will do!
Brad Angove welcome brother anytime ❤️❤️❤️❤️🥰🥰🥰
You make projects look so easy even a caveman, like me, can do it!
If a caveman like me can do it, a caveman like you can do it too haha.
Very informative video! Are there any tuneomatic bridge designs to accommodate a 9.5" radius neck? What would you recommend if I wanted to replace the bridge on my Strat with a tuneomatic-looking bridge? I love their look.
I would think there are 9.5 radius options. Lots of companies make versions of these. I’m about to do an install with one from babicz that looks like it might be adjustable for radius.
@@BradAngove right on! ill check them out thanks!
Thanks man! Btw, my bridge and stoptail posts do not sit flat on my semi-hollow top. Is that normal or something to be worried about? I mean the top of semihollow itself is kind a bowed right, so I thought this should be normal, but I saw a review somewhere in the net saying they are not good. Can you please enlighten me on this?
As long as they are in there firmly and don’t move I wouldn’t be worried about it. People believe a lot of stuff about what is “not good” on a guitar, and realistically very little of it is actually true.
@@BradAngove Hi Brad! Thank you very much! Appreciate it, I'm now less worried.. 😌Btw, it is a 2nd hand Sire H7, and just bought it today for a good price. Happy playing! 😁
Nice explanation, thank you. I would have gotten into the orientation of the adjustment screws in a little more detail for those followers who perhaps aren't familiar with Gibson bridges. (To me, the first thing I look at on any guitar is the bridge.)
Thanks Paul
As usual, great information and wonderful demonstration.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thanks for watching
Awesome
Hi Brad, super video dude. I am getting a TunePros TP7 for my first ever build. I'm doing an 18 inch radius but the model comes with a 14 inch radius. Any advice on reworking this? Cheers,
Ade.
Very interesting. I don’t have any advice on that because I’ve never seen it done. My wild thought though is to adjust the string groove depth in the bridge and use the radii gauge on the strings to get it right, with the center strings having the deepest grooves and then an intermediate groove in the A and B strings to level them all off a bit.
@@BradAngove Thanks for that - will give it a shot!!
Brad walks up to random people and tells them he has a Tune-O-Matic bridge to sell them. They look him in the eye, then pound the like and subscribe buttons.
Does the height of the tunomatic bridge matter ?
Yes, that’s what sets the action essentially.
But doesn't it matter which direction the bridge faces because of the different width string slots?
If you have a bridge with different width string slots it can matter. But saddles can also be removed and switched around etc.
Probably, easier to start off the slot by placing a set of cheap strings over the saddles and hammer it with a fret hammer. This should put dents onto the saddles.
You think the string material is hard enough to dent the saddles?
@@BradAngove I believe so. At the very least, it will leave a mark on the plating.
Very helpful thanks!
is there really such a thing as upgrades for this little piece? are roller bridges really 'upgrade'
It depends on your preference and whether you’re adding a tremolo.
Pro tip: if your tom is buzzing, you can use little rubber bands to hold the intonation screws . If the saddle is buzzing, unscrew it, stick a little piece of rubberband in the hole, re screw. It works
Good stuff man
Thank you
This maybe stupid but whats the difference between a nashville bridge and an ABR ?
The way they mount in the guitar. The ABR-1 style you screw the posts that the bridge sits on directly into the wood of the guitar, the thumbwheel is then rolled down and then the bridge is set on top of the thumbwheel so it can be adjusted. The Nashville style they put a bushing into the wood of the guitar on each side then the post bolts which have the thumbwheel as part of that bolt (meaning the thumb wheel cannot be removed from the bolt) those screw into those bushings and the bridge then sits on top with each post through the holes on the ends. Basically the ABR1 is the OLD way and the Nashville is the more modern way. The ABR1 posts screw directly into the wood while the Nashville screw into a bushing on each end - make sense? The thumb wheel on the ABR1 is a separate piece and must be threaded on to the post before sitting the bridge on.
@@alabamahebrew Yes it does make sense. Thanks for the info. I did not know that. Ron you saved me some problems in the future.
Brad. I am toying with an idea.
Probably been done before but I haven’t seen one anywhere. A through telecaster, with bigsby vibrato pick up plate, bridge saddle and gibson tail piece.
Will it work?
Great videos as usual.
Should work fine. You just need the right neck angle to accommodate that setup.
@@BradAngove ok, cheers Brad
I got a guitar with this bridge for the first time, and I totally thought I broke it when changing the strings. The stop just slid off.
Haha that must not have been a fun moment for you.
Cleaver by Gibson as no extra tooling needed making left handed bridges as they are all the same.. genius...simple and easy.
Bugger! (erm, thanks Brad)! now I`ve no idea whether my saddles should forwards or backwards! guess I`ll have to figure that one out for myself (man, this guitar thing aint easy)! but thanks anyway.
*uhm.
I'm pretty sure I covered that in the video... didn't I?
I learned today.
Sounds like a good day.
Hey man, just want to thank you for all your work - saved me a lot of research during my final year of university! Really appreciate it. Just wanted to ask a question, what are your thoughts on using a wraparound bridge vs a tune-o-matic? I am building a les paul and I am using your guides to do the finish and hardware etc. Thanks!
Wraparound bridges are good. I haven’t used them much, but they’re a solid option, and some people think the added contact and lessened string length is a good thing. Its just a matter of preference really.
@@BradAngove thank you! I'll let you know how it goes
Stop height does matter. As the tail is lowered, it increases tension and friction on the bridge and saddles. Over time, it will collapse the bridge.
Some people prefer additional string tension, some don't. If your bridge fails because of your stop tail height, you should be looking at decent quality bridges.
@@BradAngove
Sorry. You're wrong.
I've repaired dozens of Gibsons with collapsed bridges due to the stop tail being tightened all the way or too far down. It's not a matter of the quality of the bridge. It's simple physics of the torque being applied to the fulcrum of that cast part.
i respectfully disagree about it not mattering about the Hight of the stop bar. well you did mention that you do not want the strings to contact the back of the bridge because of pressure points on the strings which is one hundred percent correct but it is also important not to have the stop bar to low because with it being low it creates excessive tension on the bridge and over time it can cause the center of your bridge to collapse causing you to have string buzz on the d and g strings
Thank you
@@BradAngove no problem I just thought I'd share some valuable information to help people avoid damaging their tunematic Bridges I've never damaged mine but I happen to stumble across videos of others that have had it damaged the other benefit of having your Stop Bar up high instead of low is you reduce the tensions on the strings and can give yourself a real nice Slinky feel and reduce the stiffness in the strings that is if that's the kind of feel you like some people like to have the strings stiff so it's all on perspective
It took me 29 years to figure out my favorite bridge is a tune o matic. Not a tune o matic on a Gibson but a tune o matic on a strat shaped guitar.
👍
I find the design of some of these questionable- those little triangular wires that ‘hold’ the rail screws in place are just awful.
👍✌😎
Bolts.
No whammy bar?
It’s a tunomatic bridge.
Cant lie i hate tuneomatics just because I rest my hand on the corner of the bridge and it is way too sharp. It might just be my bridge but still it really bothers me
You could always wear fingerless gloves like Lynch does
@@TheRockinDonkey I guess but I might as well change the bridge
Fair, if you do your palm muting etc. right on the edge of the bridge I can see how that would get annyoing.
A lot of people use one with roller saddles because they are smoother. You can get them cheap. I got one to help with a Bigsby.
@@onewiththings Yeah, I think the roller saddles would be a good choice in this case
Good video. You sound like Jake Gyllenhaal. Or maybe he sounds like you
Thanks. I’ve never heard that I sound like him before.
I hate this bridge so delicate and complicated i prefer fender bridges.
Anyone else think "Tuneomatic" sounds just about as clever naming as "Unobtanium"?
~ and arrives via large oversized crate aptly stamped "ACME" in huge letters on the sides ;p
grrrr, not answering my question.
hack!
What you need to know= AVOID THEM
so these saddles that are soooo easy to get out and turn around... how come for the life in me i cant get mine out to turn around?? talk about a half assed video...
Try unscrewing them.
@BradAngove I did.. the screws have something inside the saddle working as a retainer, stops the screws and hence the saddles being fully removed.
Be me. Try to find a video of how to setup your guitar. Be hit by North Americans with inches. Go desperate.
Measure double the distance from nut to 12th fret. Regardless of measuring system.
They are the worst. Video done.
How so?