I completely messed up my tele when I started to experiment with raising and lowering my 3 barrel bridge saddles. Needless to say, I couldn't find my way back until I saw the bit on setting the action at 2 mm on all strings. That seemed to get me back, like 95%, to where I started. But, man, nothing gets me sweating it like messing up a great guitar! Thanks for your help.
I really enjoy the video especially the information on the string length just for clarification, I may be wrong, but I think you mean that by wrapping the G string towards the bottom and in effect creating a pseudo string tree you’re actually increasing the angle created at the nut to create the desired effect, thank you so much for the video
Interesting video. I personally use 9-42 strings on my Tele and have a much lower action 1.25mm (High E) and 1.5mm (Low E). I have no string buzz and find it easy to play and bend. I also have a Gibson Les Paul that has 10-46 strings and a 2mm string height (action) that works well for me on it. Maybe the thicker strings you use requires a higher action to avoid strings buzzing. Its a personal choice but I prefer the thinner strings and lower action.
@@paulcox6566 to each their own! I find higher action gives a noticeably bigger tone. In high school, I was all about nine gauge and low action so I’ve done both and spent my whole professional guitar playing years with higher action after hearing so many of my favorite guitar players use it such as Robben Ford. In the end, it is all about personal preference
Rutters are the BEST saddles for Teles. Been using them exclusively for almost 20 years. Just finished a build with his new naval brass saddles, and so far they may be my favorite yet.
I found after many many gigs having to watch the tuning, I started on 11 gauge, never went back. I'm an 'energetic' player and I can hammer the guitar all night long without the constant tuning worry. 11 gauge on six of my guitars now.
This is the kind of Anorak information I want ! .. same thing every time . Same plectrums… same height, same everything… ! .. I already play 11’s for the very reason he gave. I started on nines about two years ago… Then went to tens .. I like to dig in… And the tuning goes out.. Great video, thank you !
This was SO helpful. I just got a 40th anniversary Tele and it's so different than the ones I've had in the past. I love super low action, but I had to realize that this beast isn't ever going to do that - it wasn't meant to. I had it all messed up until I followed this video. I actually don't mind the high action now...maybe that's just me getting older lol. I just wanted it to play better and thanks to you it does. You really earned my sub, sir. Now on to your other content.....
All good stuff - I have my action at 2mm on the bass side and 1.5 on the treble - its always felt like the bass strings were lower than the treble if at the same height! YMMV. As to the saddles - I've been really happy with the Gotoh compensated - the other compensated/angled (without grooves) actually made the intonation inconsistent as when the stings slipped, so did the intonation.
Great video,you certainly know your stuff,l have a Tele' and this has given me a new lease of life regarding guitar maintenance,as l am a bit of a dummy' when it comes to the technical applications🤔...anyway' thanks again,very enjoyable😊👍
I don't have a telecaster, but I came to this video because maybe I'll get me one. You covered pretty much everything great job. But the thing I was interested most is, how to intonate if let's say your high E is good and then the b string needs an intonation, and so for all the other strings, as they go by pair... that's a thing that's keeping me for now in considering a telecaster
The problem here ,this guitar has went through a plek machine.I play my strat with 12 s strings with a ultra low string height ,its pleked too.If you have the money ,let your guitar pleked.Its a worth all the money!Nevertheless a good video !❤
That’s a good question, I always go by ear until it sounds right, but I want the Bass and treble side to be the same volume so I can use my fingers or the pick to control dynamics. I like the bridge pick up to be quite a bit louder than the neck pick up.
Korey, I greatly enjoyed and learned from your experience. I’m still having intonation problems after going through all of the setup steps. I’ve got a new Affinity Squier Natural Tele’. I’ve updated the bridge and saddle to the vintage 3 brass barrel saddle style but replaced the saddles with Gotoh compensated & slotted ones. I’ve got perfect tuning, harmonics and 12th fret intonation but when checking fretted notes up around the 3rd and 5th frets my low E string in particular is way sharp. Seems the string length to those points aren’t matching the design of the guitar. Help! Some have hinted that the nut slots aren’t deep enough or maybe too narrow. Please address this in a video with measurements for a fender telecaster in particular at the nut.
Definitely cut the nut slots. It seems you have to push the strings down too far to touch the frets making them go sharp. Take your time and don't cut too much too fast.
As others have mentioned, it's the nut probably (you can get a preslotted fabricated nut from StewMac that comes ready to go) I'm wondering if changing the bridge had something to do with it. The Asian guitars can have slightly different measurements and don't take replacements as well - even putting a new bridge on a Japanese 50's reissue gave me problems. To check nut depth, hold down each string at the 4th fret and tap the length of string from the nut to the 3rd. You should notice a TINY gap (thousandths of an inch) if there is a noticeable gap here (visible) you need to file that nut slot.
I've watch this but skip some part and have a question about the string size, my cheap chinese guitar come with 10 gauge string, can i change it to 11 gauge? Will it break the neck more bcoz of the diffrent tension ? Or what the effect for the wood structure if im using the bigger gauge from the default one?
@@toroblyat5158 if your guitar has a truss rod, you can adjust it - right tight left loose - More tension will be counter balanced by the truss rod. Usually an eighth of a turn to a quarter of a turn will do it.
I usually cut the brand new G string 2 to 3 inches off of the length that comes in the package, which seems just about right with a vintage style telecaster!
I have a tele with 6 saddle bridge. I notice on my 2nd string that the 12 fret harmonic and fretted note are in tune. The rest of fretted notes are flat. Not sure how to fix
I do clean the fretboard on string changes with Ernie ball wonder wipes, fretboard conditioner. I don’t take the strings off when I do that. I just go underneath them. I feel like taking all the strings off shocks the neck, and it may or may not return to my preferred spot afterwards.
@KoreyHicksGuitar I've seen a lot of people mocking that notion, citing that whammy bars wouldn't work if this were the case. What would you say to these folks? I change mine one at a time, but I never had a logic behind it. Except it keeps things organized.
I setup my guitars with the exact same measurements but set string height at 12th fret and check relief at 9th fret.I use 9s in standard tuning.I used 11-49 in standard for many years but realised i couldn’t bend the high E comfortably one day.Perhaps it’s age.I have no experience with compound radius necks,not really sure how to set saddle radius.A Fender ultra neck with 10-14” radius i guess a saddle radius of 16” is correct.Have you set up a compound radius neck?
Yes and it’s more complicated - depends on the player and where they play. I had a ‘53 CS Tele with a compound neck about 10 years ago - I set it up similarly but at the 12th fret. Seemed to work fine 🤷🏻♂️
@@KoreyHicksGuitar right, but are you fretting that string anywhere when you measure the gap at the 17th fret? i see in the video you are fretting the 15th but i cant tell if its on the same string you are measuring on.
@ when measuring neck relief use a capo or hold down the first fret and the last fret, but when measuring action, I don’t hold down the string anywhere
@@KoreyHicksGuitarI had an argument with my mom about going out of the country next year with the whole family in may the night my family was sleeping I cut my wrist ❤😢
Fun fact: if you bought a brand new telecaster in the 1950s, it would’ve come shipped with 12’s. 11’s don’t take very long to get used to, stay in tune better,better intonation, less string breakage, less rattle on the fingerboard, and I prefer the tone. I can say this after playing over 4200 gigs, 30 years on the instrument and over 20 years as a professional guitar teacher and college professor of guitar.
@@KoreyHicksGuitar um okay. I started on 11’s and played on it for years. I never got used to it, i just played them as a beginner because on the box it says “medium” Also the fact that you actually believe “thicker strings=no string breaking” Isn’t true. If it’s up to pitch, the strings are under way more tension. That’s why Stevie ray vaughan broke strings at every show. 8’s and 9’s not even close to that much tension so they don’t break. I have never broken a set of 8’s or 9’s. I have broken many 11’s. It’s a very boomer thing to believe that “thicker strings = more tone and better” Nobody but jazz guitarist use 11’s and up nowadays because they want to minimize bending. If you’re going out of tune with 9’s, the problem isn’t the strings buddy. It’s your control
@@marcospintor1333 A thicker string would be harder to break because physics. You also gotta remember that SRV played hard as hell. “Black fingertips”hard. You probably broke your 11s early on because you were new and you had to put in extra effort to bend those strings. Nothing wrong with that, ofc. Happens to the best of us. P.S.: There’s no need for the “ok boomer” talk. It’s 2024. That meme died ages ago.
@@lol473 “a thicker string is harder to break because of physics” But proceeds not to explain. Breaking a string because i needed more effort to bend? How does that make any sense. It’s going to take anyone more effort to bend 11’s compared to 8’s. 8’s don’t break because you’re not going anywhere far. You can bend a whole step and a half and the string doesn’t care because they’re under way less tension. Yes you can over bend and squeeze too hard, making them sharp but chill out and play more dynamically, have more control. If you’re a big guy and it’s just harder, then yeah go for 10’s and 11’s. It’s a personal thing and you need to find whatever fits your hands. Hence my original comment to “i stopped watching after 11’s”
@@marcospintor1333 why would I need to explain the physics line? It’s not hard to understand that something thick is harder to break than something thin. And he wasn’t saying that you HAVE to use 11s. It’s just his recommendation. There was no need to dismiss the whole video because of his recommendation.
@@JanPanCygan that is probably a topic for another video, has to do a lot with touch and feel and small adjustments, but I typically hold down the third fret and tap the string and look for a teeny tiny bit of gap
I completely messed up my tele when I started to experiment with raising and lowering my 3 barrel bridge saddles. Needless to say, I couldn't find my way back until I saw the bit on setting the action at 2 mm on all strings. That seemed to get me back, like 95%, to where I started. But, man, nothing gets me sweating it like messing up a great guitar! Thanks for your help.
I really enjoy the video especially the information on the string length just for clarification, I may be wrong, but I think you mean that by wrapping the G string towards the bottom and in effect creating a pseudo string tree you’re actually increasing the angle created at the nut to create the desired effect, thank you so much for the video
Yes, that is exactly it - I misspoke there
Interesting video. I personally use 9-42 strings on my Tele and have a much lower action 1.25mm (High E) and 1.5mm (Low E). I have no string buzz and find it easy to play and bend. I also have a Gibson Les Paul that has 10-46 strings and a 2mm string height (action) that works well for me on it. Maybe the thicker strings you use requires a higher action to avoid strings buzzing. Its a personal choice but I prefer the thinner strings and lower action.
@@paulcox6566 to each their own! I find higher action gives a noticeably bigger tone. In high school, I was all about nine gauge and low action so I’ve done both and spent my whole professional guitar playing years with higher action after hearing so many of my favorite guitar players use it such as Robben Ford.
In the end, it is all about personal preference
Rutters are the BEST saddles for Teles. Been using them exclusively for almost 20 years. Just finished a build with his new naval brass saddles, and so far they may be my favorite yet.
Great stuff, very helpful. Thank Korey
I found after many many gigs having to watch the tuning, I started on 11 gauge, never went back. I'm an 'energetic' player and I can hammer the guitar all night long without the constant tuning worry. 11 gauge on six of my guitars now.
This is the kind of Anorak information I want ! .. same thing every time . Same plectrums… same height, same everything… !
.. I already play 11’s for the very reason he gave. I started on nines about two years ago… Then went to tens .. I like to dig in… And the tuning goes out.. Great video, thank you !
@@Shaunybish you bet!!!
This was SO helpful. I just got a 40th anniversary Tele and it's so different than the ones I've had in the past. I love super low action, but I had to realize that this beast isn't ever going to do that - it wasn't meant to. I had it all messed up until I followed this video. I actually don't mind the high action now...maybe that's just me getting older lol. I just wanted it to play better and thanks to you it does. You really earned my sub, sir. Now on to your other content.....
@@rockerbuck967 excellent! Glad it helped, welcome aboard!
All good stuff - I have my action at 2mm on the bass side and 1.5 on the treble - its always felt like the bass strings were lower than the treble if at the same height! YMMV.
As to the saddles - I've been really happy with the Gotoh compensated - the other compensated/angled (without grooves) actually made the intonation inconsistent as when the stings slipped, so did the intonation.
Great video,you certainly know your stuff,l have a Tele' and this has given me a new lease of life regarding guitar maintenance,as l am a bit of a dummy' when it comes to the technical applications🤔...anyway' thanks again,very enjoyable😊👍
@@rochford59 you bet, glad it helped!
How do you clean it if you don’t take all the strings off?
@@Taylor_King I use Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner - one fret at a time, just push the string aside and wipe under it, easy!
Thanks. Even my 1 year old Ultra 1 is a bit sharp on the first 3 frets except the high E
Thank you, very helpful. Could you please do the same for a Gibson scale guitar?
That's the stuff. My sunburst Tele is still fighting me, I'll give it a try with your setup, and let you know. Thx Korey!
Excellent!
Great content.
Thank you!
More wraps (on the G-string) increases the angle over the nut, surely!
My thoughts too.
Yep, that’s what I was implying, kind of a makeshift string tree - apologies I misspoke
Hey Korey . Hope you’re doing well fren. Appreciate you as always 💪
You too! Hope you have a great day!
Good information.
Very informative
Awesome, I'm glad you found it helpful!
great respects , very handy to know . i rushed to check my saddle ...its got no grooves , gosh
Im going to try that with the G 😎🤙
I don't have a telecaster, but I came to this video because maybe I'll get me one. You covered pretty much everything great job. But the thing I was interested most is, how to intonate if let's say your high E is good and then the b string needs an intonation, and so for all the other strings, as they go by pair... that's a thing that's keeping me for now in considering a telecaster
@@VicSounds3 I use compensated telecaster saddles, my favorite brand is Rutters and those intonate perfectly! Very happy with mine
@@KoreyHicksGuitar Thanks a lot 🫡
The problem here ,this guitar has went through a plek machine.I play my strat with 12 s strings with a ultra low string height ,its pleked too.If you have the money ,let your guitar pleked.Its a worth all the money!Nevertheless a good video !❤
Thanks for this. What is your approach to pickup heights with traditional tele pickups?😃
That’s a good question, I always go by ear until it sounds right, but I want the Bass and treble side to be the same volume so I can use my fingers or the pick to control dynamics. I like the bridge pick up to be quite a bit louder than the neck pick up.
Korey Hicks..great content and delivery, Thank You. On the saddles, Brass or steel? Does it matter?
@@rescd4 on my ‘59 it’s steel, on the ‘52 it’s brass (I keep it vintage spec, but Rutters offers both)
@@KoreyHicksGuitar Thanks for taking the time to reply
Korey, I greatly enjoyed and learned from your experience. I’m still having intonation problems after going through all of the setup steps. I’ve got a new Affinity Squier Natural Tele’. I’ve updated the bridge and saddle to the vintage 3 brass barrel saddle style but replaced the saddles with Gotoh compensated & slotted ones. I’ve got perfect tuning, harmonics and 12th fret intonation but when checking fretted notes up around the 3rd and 5th frets my low E string in particular is way sharp. Seems the string length to those points aren’t matching the design of the guitar. Help! Some have hinted that the nut slots aren’t deep enough or maybe too narrow. Please address this in a video with measurements for a fender telecaster in particular at the nut.
Definitely cut the nut slots. It seems you have to push the strings down too far to touch the frets making them go sharp. Take your time and don't cut too much too fast.
As others have mentioned, it's the nut probably (you can get a preslotted fabricated nut from StewMac that comes ready to go) I'm wondering if changing the bridge had something to do with it. The Asian guitars can have slightly different measurements and don't take replacements as well - even putting a new bridge on a Japanese 50's reissue gave me problems. To check nut depth, hold down each string at the 4th fret and tap the length of string from the nut to the 3rd. You should notice a TINY gap (thousandths of an inch) if there is a noticeable gap here (visible) you need to file that nut slot.
I've watch this but skip some part and have a question about the string size, my cheap chinese guitar come with 10 gauge string, can i change it to 11 gauge? Will it break the neck more bcoz of the diffrent tension ? Or what the effect for the wood structure if im using the bigger gauge from the default one?
@@toroblyat5158 if your guitar has a truss rod, you can adjust it - right tight left loose - More tension will be counter balanced by the truss rod. Usually an eighth of a turn to a quarter of a turn will do it.
Great content! Is there a tone difference between Rutters' brass and steel compensated saddles?
@@ericmmiller the steel is brighter and has more bass. I played blackguards with brass for 20 years, and now find myself preferring the steel 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks man! Just got a new tele gonna try this, just one thing what about the height of thstrings at the nut??
Good question! The nut height is important for that smooth playability we talked about!
Great setup info! Do you cut the G string to a certain length to get the 8 wraps on the post?
I usually cut the brand new G string 2 to 3 inches off of the length that comes in the package, which seems just about right with a vintage style telecaster!
Thanks! Going to use these tips at my next string change.
Thanks!! What brand u use for saddle/bridge???
Rutters
I have a tele with 6 saddle bridge. I notice on my 2nd string that the 12 fret harmonic and fretted note are in tune. The rest of fretted notes are flat. Not sure how to fix
@@RickGtr271 could be an issue at the nut - you could also intonate at various places, including the 15th and17th fret
Do you ever clean the fretboard and if so, do you remove all the strings?
I do clean the fretboard on string changes with Ernie ball wonder wipes, fretboard conditioner. I don’t take the strings off when I do that. I just go underneath them. I feel like taking all the strings off shocks the neck, and it may or may not return to my preferred spot afterwards.
@KoreyHicksGuitar
I've seen a lot of people mocking that notion, citing that whammy bars wouldn't work if this were the case. What would you say to these folks?
I change mine one at a time, but I never had a logic behind it. Except it keeps things organized.
I setup my guitars with the exact same measurements but set string height at 12th fret and check relief at 9th fret.I use 9s in standard tuning.I used 11-49 in standard for many years but realised i couldn’t bend the high E comfortably one day.Perhaps it’s age.I have no experience with compound radius necks,not really sure how to set saddle radius.A Fender ultra neck with 10-14” radius i guess a saddle radius of 16” is correct.Have you set up a compound radius neck?
Yes and it’s more complicated - depends on the player and where they play. I had a ‘53 CS Tele with a compound neck about 10 years ago - I set it up similarly but at the 12th fret. Seemed to work fine 🤷🏻♂️
so when you are measuring action at the 17th fret, you aren't fretting a note on that string when you measure?
You’re measuring the gap, the distance from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string
@@KoreyHicksGuitar right, but are you fretting that string anywhere when you measure the gap at the 17th fret? i see in the video you are fretting the 15th but i cant tell if its on the same string you are measuring on.
@ when measuring neck relief use a capo or hold down the first fret and the last fret, but when measuring action, I don’t hold down the string anywhere
Does this work on a 100 dollar guitar ??
@@kirachan5285 as long as the neck can be adjusted properly, yes!
What a fantastic video have a wonderful day also a fantastic weekend also I cut my wrist when my family was sleeping ❤😊😥
I hope you are OK! Everything all right?
@@KoreyHicksGuitarI had an argument with my mom about going out of the country next year with the whole family in may the night my family was sleeping I cut my wrist ❤😢
@@aminahmed2220 Prayers for your healing, and that it never needs to happen again!
Er.... that increases the break-angle. I'm still a fan of it, though.
@@paulstebner6492 yeah you’re totally right, I’ll blame the head cold I was having that day 😂
Basically. Just buy the most expensive one they make so you don’t have any issues.
I set up my affinity Tele the exact same way and it doesn’t have any issues. $250
muy desprolijo todo, al final no muestras nada en concreto
saludos
I stopped watching the video at 11 gauge strings lol
Fun fact: if you bought a brand new telecaster in the 1950s, it would’ve come shipped with 12’s.
11’s don’t take very long to get used to, stay in tune better,better intonation, less string breakage, less rattle on the fingerboard, and I prefer the tone.
I can say this after playing over 4200 gigs, 30 years on the instrument and over 20 years as a professional guitar teacher and college professor of guitar.
@@KoreyHicksGuitar um okay. I started on 11’s and played on it for years. I never got used to it, i just played them as a beginner because on the box it says “medium”
Also the fact that you actually believe “thicker strings=no string breaking”
Isn’t true. If it’s up to pitch, the strings are under way more tension. That’s why Stevie ray vaughan broke strings at every show. 8’s and 9’s not even close to that much tension so they don’t break. I have never broken a set of 8’s or 9’s. I have broken many 11’s.
It’s a very boomer thing to believe that “thicker strings = more tone and better”
Nobody but jazz guitarist use 11’s and up nowadays because they want to minimize bending.
If you’re going out of tune with 9’s, the problem isn’t the strings buddy. It’s your control
@@marcospintor1333 A thicker string would be harder to break because physics. You also gotta remember that SRV played hard as hell. “Black fingertips”hard.
You probably broke your 11s early on because you were new and you had to put in extra effort to bend those strings. Nothing wrong with that, ofc. Happens to the best of us.
P.S.: There’s no need for the “ok boomer” talk. It’s 2024. That meme died ages ago.
@@lol473 “a thicker string is harder to break because of physics”
But proceeds not to explain.
Breaking a string because i needed more effort to bend? How does that make any sense.
It’s going to take anyone more effort to bend 11’s compared to 8’s.
8’s don’t break because you’re not going anywhere far. You can bend a whole step and a half and the string doesn’t care because they’re under way less tension. Yes you can over bend and squeeze too hard, making them sharp but chill out and play more dynamically, have more control.
If you’re a big guy and it’s just harder, then yeah go for 10’s and 11’s. It’s a personal thing and you need to find whatever fits your hands. Hence my original comment to “i stopped watching after 11’s”
@@marcospintor1333 why would I need to explain the physics line? It’s not hard to understand that something thick is harder to break than something thin.
And he wasn’t saying that you HAVE to use 11s. It’s just his recommendation. There was no need to dismiss the whole video because of his recommendation.
Thank you, awesome tips. How cut the nut to stay in tune in fist frets?
@@JanPanCygan that is probably a topic for another video, has to do a lot with touch and feel and small adjustments, but I typically hold down the third fret and tap the string and look for a teeny tiny bit of gap
@@KoreyHicksGuitar Thank you very much. Subscribed and I'm planning to visit your Parteon