In this video I've made a common mistake by applying "vernier caliper" name to a tool that should be named "digital caliper". I thank everyone who has noticed, and I appologize for this inaccuracy. My voiced appology was done in the intro to the following video: - ruclips.net/video/IRsXF6AFoMw/видео.html
Great video. Never throw a chain out based on the chain checker alone. Here's another tip. If you use a quicklink. Check chain wear over the link and compare. Sometimes these links are poorly made and they wear an oval hole in the links it's attached to = local wear. A chain can be below 0.5% everywhere except at the link and still damage your drivetrain. Buy proper quicklinks.
lots of times i evaluate chain wear by comparing new and worn chain and if chain is more than 3mm longer than new one, it is worn and last 5 years i do it by calipers and both methods are same ,just have to establish referent points
These tools are just an indication not a high precision tool. Given they indicate a bit too early it is to give you a heads up so you at least will be able to change before it's too late. If you want to maximize and really squeeze the most km out of your drivetrain you will just have to at least get a 3 point chain checker, and also check several places over the entire length of the chain and just make up your own mind of what seems right. Chains are rather inexpensive compared to cassettes and then + chainring, so I'd rather just swop it out once I reach the 0.5% just to have some peace of mind. I will also evaluate the condition of the cassette and chainring because there's no use of a new chain if the cassette/chainring is worn. That's just going to get extra expensive for no reason.
Same design as the Park Tool CC4. I see now that Unior are trying their own twist in this game with the chain wear indicator part number 629344. The difference is that the two engagement points on the right side is not both touching the inside roller, but opposite side of eachother. Then the indication part at the end is contacting the inner roller. I just feel that this may be doing the same thing just that once the chain starts wearing it will be easier to hold tension on the middle engagement point given that is the most important one given it is the closest to the point you use to measure the slack.
My point is to grab any! Keeping in mind they are all imprecise by design. Even the ones pretending to be super precise. This tool aim is ease of use, not precision.
@@ZavyalovCycling agreed. I took my digital caliper to my 11 and 12 speed Shimano Dura Ace chains and was happy to find both just under 132mm (at 6 links). Bought a Park CC 3.2 just for convenience. Thanks for the detailed video
Good video but that is a digital caliper [not a vernier]. A vernier caliper requires carefully aligning two lines on 2 scales and counting lines to estimate your measurement. A vernier scale is based on logarithmic distances. Sorry but I find the liberal use of the term vervier verses dial calipers and digital calipers to be irritating! Your point is the the science of measurement can be desceptive!
I’m 💯% with you! That’s why I have made an apology in another video and thanked the first one to point out this mistake 😉 Cheers! - ruclips.net/video/IRsXF6AFoMw/видео.html
Simple chain replacement rules: Ride your chain until it breaks. When it breaks, and you install a new chain but then experience slipping of the new chain on your cogs-sprocket, then it's time also for a new set of cogs-sprocket.
Thats an awful rule. You will probably use twice as many cassettes/chainrings vs actually replacing your chain at the right time. Chains are £20, cassettes are double to triple that and front chainrings even more on a road bike.
@@makantahi3731 No, you only spill money for parts that were already worn anyway. You can go through 4-5 chains at average of 3000km per chain before your sprockets need replaced. Trying to be overly precise on measuring chain wear saves you nothing.
@@Avianthro i work in bike repair shop and you are wrong,on time replaced chain saves lot of money and good chain maintenance saves money for chain- waxing can extend chain life for more than 6 times
In this video I've made a common mistake by applying "vernier caliper" name to a tool that should be named "digital caliper". I thank everyone who has noticed, and I appologize for this inaccuracy. My voiced appology was done in the intro to the following video:
- ruclips.net/video/IRsXF6AFoMw/видео.html
Great video. Never throw a chain out based on the chain checker alone. Here's another tip. If you use a quicklink. Check chain wear over the link and compare. Sometimes these links are poorly made and they wear an oval hole in the links it's attached to = local wear. A chain can be below 0.5% everywhere except at the link and still damage your drivetrain. Buy proper quicklinks.
lots of times i evaluate chain wear by comparing new and worn chain and if chain is more than 3mm longer than new one, it is worn and last 5 years i do it by calipers and both methods are same ,just have to establish referent points
These tools are just an indication not a high precision tool. Given they indicate a bit too early it is to give you a heads up so you at least will be able to change before it's too late. If you want to maximize and really squeeze the most km out of your drivetrain you will just have to at least get a 3 point chain checker, and also check several places over the entire length of the chain and just make up your own mind of what seems right.
Chains are rather inexpensive compared to cassettes and then + chainring, so I'd rather just swop it out once I reach the 0.5% just to have some peace of mind. I will also evaluate the condition of the cassette and chainring because there's no use of a new chain if the cassette/chainring is worn. That's just going to get extra expensive for no reason.
What a superb video
Welcome!
Excellent video
The Pedro chain checker tool pinches the rollers to try and take up the slop while measuring.
Same design as the Park Tool CC4. I see now that Unior are trying their own twist in this game with the chain wear indicator part number 629344. The difference is that the two engagement points on the right side is not both touching the inside roller, but opposite side of eachother. Then the indication part at the end is contacting the inner roller.
I just feel that this may be doing the same thing just that once the chain starts wearing it will be easier to hold tension on the middle engagement point given that is the most important one given it is the closest to the point you use to measure the slack.
Great Content!
How do you find chain life with a waxed chain
Check before new application
Only 6 likes (including mine)?!
Thanks! Your question ignited a wave of interest towards the video 😉
@@ZavyalovCycling nice
Interesting video. What chain checker do you recommend?
My point is to grab any! Keeping in mind they are all imprecise by design. Even the ones pretending to be super precise. This tool aim is ease of use, not precision.
@@ZavyalovCycling agreed. I took my digital caliper to my 11 and 12 speed Shimano Dura Ace chains and was happy to find both just under 132mm (at 6 links). Bought a Park CC 3.2 just for convenience. Thanks for the detailed video
Shimano, most of checkers are not accurate, so you better to check them with caliper
Good video but that is a digital caliper [not a vernier]. A vernier caliper requires carefully aligning two lines on 2 scales and counting lines to estimate your measurement. A vernier scale is based on logarithmic distances. Sorry but I find the liberal use of the term vervier verses dial calipers and digital calipers to be irritating! Your point is the the science of measurement can be desceptive!
I’m 💯% with you! That’s why I have made an apology in another video and thanked the first one to point out this mistake 😉 Cheers!
- ruclips.net/video/IRsXF6AFoMw/видео.html
Wow you are easily irritated 😅
а можно по русски? я ничего не понял
Use google translate
@@dmitryhetman1509 ещё скажи английский выучить
Simple chain replacement rules:
Ride your chain until it breaks.
When it breaks, and you install a new chain but then experience slipping of the new chain on your cogs-sprocket, then it's time also for a new set of cogs-sprocket.
Thats an awful rule. You will probably use twice as many cassettes/chainrings vs actually replacing your chain at the right time. Chains are £20, cassettes are double to triple that and front chainrings even more on a road bike.
of course and then spill lot of money for all worn parts
@@makantahi3731 No, you only spill money for parts that were already worn anyway. You can go through 4-5 chains at average of 3000km per chain before your sprockets need replaced. Trying to be overly precise on measuring chain wear saves you nothing.
@@Avianthro i work in bike repair shop and you are wrong,on time replaced chain saves lot of money and good chain maintenance saves money for chain- waxing can extend chain life for more than 6 times
@@makantahi3731 Doesn't match with my experience, and I have plenty. Chain waxing extending chain life 6X?? On what planet is that?