I don't comment very often, but wanted to say jusy how much I appreciate your presenting manner. No bullshit, well humoured, good old fashioned british dryness and great information. My first point of call for maintenance knowledge. Thanks very much
I apologise if someone has already said this but I believe it is important to use the tool to check the chain along it's whole length not at just one spot.
That's why its easier and quicker to measure the length over many links with a tape measure. There's a knack to it so it's not for everyone but you get an accurate measurement in just a few seconds. I do it when I'm waxing the chain, so I have to take the chain off the bike anyway.
I really like your videos. I must admit that I use your videos to improve my english language skills. As a expierienced bike enthusiast I love the way you explain your maintenance tips. Greetings from rainy Germany.
Guten Morgen, Wolfgang. I’m pleased to hear that you enjoy my videos, and also that they help with your English. Oh, and Grüße from a rainy England 👍 Thanks, Jon
I'd never heard or read such a thing until now. Pulled my KMC digital checker out and compared measurements on a random chain. Measured wear was .06 the "correct" way vs .07 the "wrong" way.@@ribblevalleycyclist
Poor Jon, some comments were a little bit arrogant and patronising. I think I tried all of the chain measuring tools and techniques. I think there is nothing wrong with those cheap stamped gauges, especially as a starting point. And yes, of course the 3 point tool should be more accurate discarding the roller wear. If you wax your chains though and take them off regularly the easiest way is a nail. (You just hang it on a nail and check). Also, it is nice to measure it to see the actual current wear percentage and not just a "yes" or a "no". So that you know when to buy a new chain in advance or to check how the new lube is working.
Thanks, Hard Work, If you have a YT channel, you sort of have to accept it. The idea of the video was to show how a simple check can be easily done at home by the budding home mechanic. I have both an old Park CC-2, and the newer CC-4, but the CC-2 looks both daunting and expensive, whilst the CC-4 is a little confusing. Stuff like that just puts people off from having a go, but a simple two £€$ option will give a pretty good reading, and people won’t be put off. Thanks for your support, appreciate it. Jon
Great video! I recently moved to chain waxing and hope to get many more kilometres of use from my chains. With my road bike I swap between an Ultegra and dura ace chain every 500-600km and have a detailed spreadsheet where I track what chain was used on each ride. I am hoping to get 10,000kms per chain. cleaning the bike is so much easier too. I also did the same with my gravel bike and was shocked how clean the chain was after a 320km gravel ride. I subscribed to your channel. You have a fun way of approaching bike maintenance.
Hi again, Gene. A spreadsheet, that's dedication! For me personally, ascent plays a big part in chain wear. For every 10km I ride, I climb about 170m. Also, 15-20% gradient is normal on most local rides Because of this, I'm starting to see excessive wear at around 4 to 5k. As I'm sure you know, oil attracts dust, and combined they make a wonderful grinding paste!
Hi Jon, I too have switched this year to hot wax in the attempt to prolong the lifespan of my entire drive train. So far it seems to be working well, but it will take a while to know for sure. Great video by the way. I learnt this lesson the hard way a few years back before I started taking my cycling more seriously.
Awesome video thank you!!!When it comes to chain checkers you want 1 that is laser cut and not a stamped 1,stamped 1's can even vary their measurement from lot to lot from the same company.I have the park tool cc2 and the new cc4 and the Shimano tl-cn42 (recommended by zero friction cycle)which only measures to .50 wear.The pt cc2 reads very conservative for eg my xtr 12 sp chain reads .75 with the pt cc2 and the pt cc4 and the Shimano both say under .50 wear.They say 11 and 12 speed chains should be changed at .50 wear and 10 speed to I think 5 speed are good untill .75 wear,5 speed and below are good to 1.0 wear.Cheers!!!
Hi Glen, Glad you liked it. Thanks for the detailed info, some great advice here. I too have the Park Tool CC-2, but didn't use it on this video, because the 'Drop-In' style tool used is a lot easier to demonstrate and see on video, as the Park one is read from the top, rather than the side........ kinda regretting that decision 🤣 I will agree that not all chain checkers are equal, and the stamped out ones can be flawed. If you can, you should invest in a good one. Thanks again, Jon
I love your video's, you explain everything perfectly and even give us advice on things we should avoid doing. The format is just perfect, enough information but not to much that we cant follow anymore. Could you make a video about press fit bottom brackets on how to replace it and how we know if it's worn out? Keep up the good work!
From a lover of the chain, this is praise indeed. I'll be following it up with a more detailed video on how to measure a bit more accurately, with a better tool.
It is not so much the rollers wearing which lengthens the chain, but the cumulative wear at the pivots. They, and the hole through the side plate wear. However, I'm glad you don't blame it on the side plates stretching; there seems to be any number of people who think that is what is happening.
I was mountain biking and I came across a biker with a broken chain. He didn't have the know how to sort his chain, so I repaired it for him. I asked him when the last time he replaced the chain was and he said he never has; he bought his bike in 2006 😀
@cyclingSausage I bought my bike in 1992, still has the original chain, tyres on it, only upgraded the brakes, but then it has only done about 1700 miles, not sure how many miles a chain will do, before needing replacement.
@@dogbreath6974 Get yourself a chain measuring tool, you can pick them up for a couple of quid. Measure your chain, and if it's beyond 1% stretch replace your chain and freewheel.
@@FiveMinuteVelo I guess it's easier to measure. If you place it to between outer links the tool might rest against edge of innerplate and give wrong reading, but. The tool that he used in video has 2 "fingers" at that end. One goes between inner link another between outer, that should guide it to right spot.. unless there is so much side play between links..
The 75% side the o.5 is where it has slipped down to on that tester, for a new chain it's worn and park tools mechanic says if it's 11 or 12 speed replace it at 0.5m? It's on their video
There's plenty of places to attempt to save money in cycling, and plenty not to. Brakes, tyres, shorts, allen keys and a chain checker tool come in the latter camp
Actualy chain checker tools like this one are not mesuring right beacose they add wear of rollers and in chain wear rollers wear dont make the distance bigger. What makes the distance bigger is the wear on pins when pins wear out distance betwen each roller changes. One of tools that help with not adding rollers wear is park tool cc-4. One of bike youtubers in Poland made reslly nice wideo that expleins this problem. Sadly it does not have english sub.
They measure just fine, been using them for 10+ years with consistent results. But ofcouse you need to know when to use it, and what other factors influenze potetial drive train issues.
@zedddddful I've had three 9 speed chains, two shimano 53s and one kmc , break this year. All were well within wear limits. The rivets are making very little contact with the plates, even when new. I wish I'd stuck with 7 and 8 speed cassettes.
If in any doubt replace every 2500 miles and if you keep the chain and cassette in good order you should get three or even possible four chains out out the cassette. It works for me...
I'm the same, Simon. If you keep on top of chain wear and maintenance, you should see 4 chains for every cassette. The cassette on my current road bike has over 5000 miles (8000km) on it, and there is no sign of wear. Thanks for adding your thoughts.
If you use a chain checker tool, you only need to clean about 9" of chain (the span of the tool) that does not include the quick link, and measure that clean spot. That is easy to do without moving the bike or removing the chain, and if the chain _does_ need replacing, you haven't wasted materials and time cleaning the whole thing. If it's good to go, clean the rest. You can also use a top portion of the chain as long as you hold the rear wheel (or have it on the floor) and put a bit of forward pressure on the crank, tensioning the chain.
Brilliant advice. Simple but quite nuanced. Maybe go a step further and suggest getting a chain checker tool from a reputable maker? I may not trust a cheap Chinese maker to incorporate the required preciion of the tool.
You're not the first to mention that. The idea was to get people who don't do it, to do it. Which it's done. However, I've also had a lot of 'Those things are crap' comments. To be fair, they're better than nothing, but you're right, I'll follow it up. Will use my Park Tool CC-4 in the next one.
Tbh with prices of chains currently and using 105 groupset, i find that obsessing over chain is not cost effective. New casette/big chainring cost 2 times the value of a chain, smaller chainring is 1 time the cost. So a bad chain can potentially ruin the 5 times the cost of the drivetrain. If you run ultegra or other superexpensive stuff it makes way more sense to obsess over chain.
I've found a 6" digital caliper to be the best tool. Extend the calipers out to 5". Stick the outer jaws between inner plates and then extend the calipers. A new chain will be around 5.2" and 0.5% wear is around 5.225". You are measuring 5 and a half links minus the diameter of a roller. This will be 5.5" and a roller is precisely .3" in diameter so a new chain will measure around 5.2". It's just as fast as using the chain checkers. It is more complicated only if you have to figure the numbers out yourself. I've lost trust in those chain checkers when I got one that was causing me to throw away chains too early. Digital calipers are easily confirmed with a micrometer. Chain checkers not so much.
I appreciate most of your videos, however I must agree to disagree with you on this one. 10 speed and above chains should be replaced at or before 0.5% wear. By the time it reaches 0.75% it is very likely a new chain will not mesh properly, and a new cassette and chainrings would be required. Letting it run to 1% as you suggest will certainly require the other drivetrain parts be replaced. Also be aware that on SRAM AXS 12 speed chains there are only 3 chain checkers that I am aware of that work because these chains use oversized rollers. These require a checker that isolates roller wear like the ParkTool CC-4, Shimano TL-CN42, or Pedros Chain Checker Plus II. I would still advise 0.5% on 9 and 8 speed chains to prevent wear, its just that because the roller width is wider (wider chains) the cassette teeth and chainring teeth are also wider so stand up to more abuse than the narrower modern stuff.
Funny just watched a few videos ( long and boring full of super - nerdy comments by wannabe engineers ) trashing this method. Cyclists loooove to argue. Personally I think this method is perfectly sound.Peace out
About the bad methods: 12 links is 6 inches. That is 152,4 mm. So you need to see a difference of around 1 mm with measuringtape??? Good luck! That is why that one is bad. You could have say that in my opinion...
Thanks for clearing that up, Markus. And yes, you're right, I could've. However, I did that video quickly and unscripted on the back of the mechanical/electronic video, so I didn't have the exact detail to hand. Probably should've taken more time on it, but wanted to take advantage of having the camera's setup in the workshop. Thanks, Jon
Hi Pierre, In my opinion, using a vernier calliper to check chain wear is both over the top, and complicated. If you’re checking the timing chain on an engine, then I get it….. but for a bicycle….. I’m not sure. In the right hands, a vernier calliper is a wonderful tool, but for a home mechanic to check chain wear on a bicycle, I think the chain checker is a simpler approach. Thanks for watching, Jon
Actually you can easily get away with just using a ruler. If you check over 24 links that is nominally 12" or 304.8mm; 1% is 3 mm roughly. Most people should be easily able to measure to less than 1mm or about 0.3% total wear. Of course you probably have to take the chain off the bike and I have to admit the chain chequer tool and I have to admit the chain checker tool is a lot easier.
@@FiveMinuteVelo I have measured it on bike with ruler. Maybe not possible on every bike. It's important to sift to a gear where chain line is absolutely straight, also to get absolutely good result pull the chain so much that it would not sag down at middle. You can use laundry pegs as third hand to help to keep ruler against chain. Also you could measure a new chain first and compare the measure with the measure that you took yourself instead of 12". Maybe that way you get rid of some of measuring error caused by bent chain, or maybe not.. The pins in chain probably wear on their ends (chain edges) more than at middle, because chain is not always straight and.. Better would be to take chain off. Clean it properly and then measure. :)
it is good if you know how to(i use jaws for inner measure and i had to sand off sides because it is to wide and can not enter easy into chain and must pay attention that jaws are parallel with chain , to not to enter in gap between roller and side plate)
5:25 if chain ring teeth are worn , then reshape it and save 100 pounds, it takes 10-12 minutes to do, what job on earth is paid 600pounds per working hour?
You measured it wrong because you have the wrong tool! You should use, for example, the "TL-CNTL-WEAR-A1" or the "Chain Checker Plus II". Something that has a THREE-point design of the Chain Checker tool properly isolates pin wear from roller wear.
He did not. Ofcouse there's different types of measurement tools, some more precise than others. But as he uses it, it gives a very fine indication of wether a chain is worn or not.
Hi Wojciech, I’m sure the SRAM TL-CNTL-WEAR-A1 Chain Wear Indicator is a wonderful tool. In this video, I use a chain checker tool that is compatible with the Shimano chain being measured. Thanks for watching, Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist If you use a gauge with two support points, it will show you that the chain is worn earlier than it actually is. This is because the rollers have gap at the pins, it doesn't interfere with anything and the gauge can indicate that the new chain is already worn. I recommend you read or watch something about three point support gauges. For example the "Park tool cc-4", the "Pedros Chain Checker Plus II" or that SRAM I wrote about earlier.
@@iMarszi I have both types. One that isolates roller wear (shimano TL -CN42)and other that doesn't(Parktool CC 3.2). I still replace the chain before the expensive shimano tool tells me to do so. Because shifting goes bad, when rollers and side plates wear. But you are correct, if you want to get more off from a chain, then the type of tool that you recommend is better. I don't race so I can keep it a bit longer, than what CC3.2 recommends, but I enjoy my ride more, when chain is new, quieter and shifting is good. I also hotwax the chain to make it last longer, but ride also at winter.. In end it's still the riders decision, when to change the chain.. Tool is just to make it easier. If it says good it's good, but if it says bad, then I can look further, check it by using other methods.. Ruler and experience.. But experience gomes after tool and many chains and cassettes, beginners unfortunately have to get through with just a tool and hunch. :)
Hi Garfie1d73, The idea behind this video was to give the budding home cycling mechanic some basic guidance how to quickly and easily check the wear level of a chain. I will agree that not all chain checkers are equal, the Rohloff Caliber is a very good product, and if you can, you should invest in a good one. That’s why I showed screenshots of a few brand options in the video. Thanks for watching, Jon
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't comment very often, but wanted to say jusy how much I appreciate your presenting manner. No bullshit, well humoured, good old fashioned british dryness and great information. My first point of call for maintenance knowledge. Thanks very much
Thank you so much, that’s really kind of you 👍
I apologise if someone has already said this but I believe it is important to use the tool to check the chain along it's whole length not at just one spot.
Good point, Robert. And no, you're the first to suggest that.
That's why its easier and quicker to measure the length over many links with a tape measure. There's a knack to it so it's not for everyone but you get an accurate measurement in just a few seconds. I do it when I'm waxing the chain, so I have to take the chain off the bike anyway.
I looked at all the advice & got a bike with a pinion & drive belt & I don't have to bother with any of this chain advice & I love it .
First time I've ever bought something after watching a YT video. Thanks!
Glad to hear you found it useful, Jon 👍
I really like your videos. I must admit that I use your videos to improve my english language skills. As a expierienced bike enthusiast I love the way you explain your maintenance tips. Greetings from rainy Germany.
Guten Morgen, Wolfgang. I’m pleased to hear that you enjoy my videos, and also that they help with your English. Oh, and Grüße from a rainy England 👍
Thanks,
Jon
I never knew you should measure it using an inner plate ......thank you
No, nor did I until recently! A Park user manual taught me that....... Bloke, so I don't usually read them!!!
I'd never heard or read such a thing until now. Pulled my KMC digital checker out and compared measurements on a random chain. Measured wear was .06 the "correct" way vs .07 the "wrong" way.@@ribblevalleycyclist
Interesting. All we need to do now is work out how to tell everyone else 😂
Yeah that's new to me too! I wonder why though 🤔
Same here! I've been doing it wrong for 20 years!
Poor Jon, some comments were a little bit arrogant and patronising. I think I tried all of the chain measuring tools and techniques. I think there is nothing wrong with those cheap stamped gauges, especially as a starting point. And yes, of course the 3 point tool should be more accurate discarding the roller wear. If you wax your chains though and take them off regularly the easiest way is a nail. (You just hang it on a nail and check). Also, it is nice to measure it to see the actual current wear percentage and not just a "yes" or a "no". So that you know when to buy a new chain in advance or to check how the new lube is working.
Thanks, Hard Work,
If you have a YT channel, you sort of have to accept it.
The idea of the video was to show how a simple check can be easily done at home by the budding home mechanic. I have both an old Park CC-2, and the newer CC-4, but the CC-2 looks both daunting and expensive, whilst the CC-4 is a little confusing. Stuff like that just puts people off from having a go, but a simple two £€$ option will give a pretty good reading, and people won’t be put off.
Thanks for your support, appreciate it.
Jon
Wow, going to the pub for a few beers after I corrected you on your last video must have really worked - you got this one all right! 😊
Technically, I'm gonna disagree with you, Mark. I should've used a better quality chain checker...... Maybe my Park Tool CC-4 🤣
Great video! I recently moved to chain waxing and hope to get many more kilometres of use from my chains. With my road bike I swap between an Ultegra and dura ace chain every 500-600km and have a detailed spreadsheet where I track what chain was used on each ride. I am hoping to get 10,000kms per chain. cleaning the bike is so much easier too. I also did the same with my gravel bike and was shocked how clean the chain was after a 320km gravel ride. I subscribed to your channel. You have a fun way of approaching bike maintenance.
Hi again, Gene.
A spreadsheet, that's dedication! For me personally, ascent plays a big part in chain wear. For every 10km I ride, I climb about 170m. Also, 15-20% gradient is normal on most local rides Because of this, I'm starting to see excessive wear at around 4 to 5k.
As I'm sure you know, oil attracts dust, and combined they make a wonderful grinding paste!
Hi Jon, I too have switched this year to hot wax in the attempt to prolong the lifespan of my entire drive train. So far it seems to be working well, but it will take a while to know for sure.
Great video by the way. I learnt this lesson the hard way a few years back before I started taking my cycling more seriously.
Thanks, @@captain1664. One day I'll give it a try..... Think it'd make a good video.
Love that Dolan with rear rack and mudguards.
Gotta love a Do-It-All-Dolan. That old tank is bomb-proof.
The new chain checkers are now set to .5 and .75. This is especially important for 10 through 12 speed cassettes
Good point, Ashley. Think I need to maybe do a more detailed video on the subject.
Thanks,
Jon
Awesome video thank you!!!When it comes to chain checkers you want 1 that is laser cut and not a stamped 1,stamped 1's can even vary their measurement from lot to lot from the same company.I have the park tool cc2 and the new cc4 and the Shimano tl-cn42 (recommended by zero friction cycle)which only measures to .50 wear.The pt cc2 reads very conservative for eg my xtr 12 sp chain reads .75 with the pt cc2 and the pt cc4 and the Shimano both say under .50 wear.They say 11 and 12 speed chains should be changed at .50 wear and 10 speed to I think 5 speed are good untill .75 wear,5 speed and below are good to 1.0 wear.Cheers!!!
Hi Glen,
Glad you liked it.
Thanks for the detailed info, some great advice here.
I too have the Park Tool CC-2, but didn't use it on this video, because the 'Drop-In' style tool used is a lot easier to demonstrate and see on video, as the Park one is read from the top, rather than the side........ kinda regretting that decision 🤣
I will agree that not all chain checkers are equal, and the stamped out ones can be flawed. If you can, you should invest in a good one.
Thanks again,
Jon
you can use vernier caliper: new 119.65mm, 119.70-119.80mm working shape, 119.80-119.90 mm started to wear, over 120.00mm worn
I love your video's, you explain everything perfectly and even give us advice on things we should avoid doing. The format is just perfect, enough information but not to much that we cant follow anymore. Could you make a video about press fit bottom brackets on how to replace it and how we know if it's worn out? Keep up the good work!
Thanks, Leon, I appreciate the feedback 👍
Cool video! Thanks for spending time putting it together.
From a lover of the chain, this is praise indeed. I'll be following it up with a more detailed video on how to measure a bit more accurately, with a better tool.
It is not so much the rollers wearing which lengthens the chain, but the cumulative wear at the pivots. They, and the hole through the side plate wear. However, I'm glad you don't blame it on the side plates stretching; there seems to be any number of people who think that is what is happening.
The chain checker is nice. I would routinely just change chains every year or so. Turns out alot of them werent worn.
Hope you kept them! Clean them, oil them and stick them in a bag. Always good to have spares, even if they’re part-worn 👍
Another top video 👌🏼
Thanks, Adam 👍
I was mountain biking and I came across a biker with a broken chain. He didn't have the know how to sort his chain, so I repaired it for him. I asked him when the last time he replaced the chain was and he said he never has; he bought his bike in 2006 😀
A 17 year old chain, that’s given him good value…… dread to think what the cassette is like 😂
@cyclingSausage I bought my bike in 1992, still has the original chain, tyres on it, only upgraded the brakes, but then it has only done about 1700 miles, not sure how many miles a chain will do, before needing replacement.
@@dogbreath6974 Get yourself a chain measuring tool, you can pick them up for a couple of quid. Measure your chain, and if it's beyond 1% stretch replace your chain and freewheel.
@@ribblevalleycyclist
Probably buys a new one every 3 months 😅😅
What's the argument for mounting the chain measuring tool at the inner link?
You know what, I don't know. I was taught that years ago, and I've also seen Park teach it that way too.
But what is the reason?
@@FiveMinuteVelo I guess it's easier to measure. If you place it to between outer links the tool might rest against edge of innerplate and give wrong reading, but. The tool that he used in video has 2 "fingers" at that end. One goes between inner link another between outer, that should guide it to right spot.. unless there is so much side play between links..
who know for what ,,, 😂 don't check get new chain 😅 my chain cost 10£ mate give me a brake :)
Informative - very useful thank you.....
Glad you found it useful.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
It should be pointed out that on an 11 speed chain and above you should be looking to change the chain at .5% wear not .75%
Yeah. 0.75% is on 6-9 speed chains. Anything higher should be 0.5%.
1spd chains can go up to 1%.
Havent seen a checker tool with a 0.5 mark.
@@gammelgemse Park Tool CC-3.2
The 75% side the o.5 is where it has slipped down to on that tester, for a new chain it's worn and park tools mechanic says if it's 11 or 12 speed replace it at 0.5m? It's on their video
There's plenty of places to attempt to save money in cycling, and plenty not to.
Brakes, tyres, shorts, allen keys and a chain checker tool come in the latter camp
09:25 why? one part of tool is in inner plate other in outer plate, it would be other case if both ends enters in inner or outer plates
Actualy chain checker tools like this one are not mesuring right beacose they add wear of rollers and in chain wear rollers wear dont make the distance bigger. What makes the distance bigger is the wear on pins when pins wear out distance betwen each roller changes. One of tools that help with not adding rollers wear is park tool cc-4. One of bike youtubers in Poland made reslly nice wideo that expleins this problem. Sadly it does not have english sub.
They measure just fine, been using them for 10+ years with consistent results. But ofcouse you need to know when to use it, and what other factors influenze potetial drive train issues.
@@primal5435 problem is you can trash good chain using this mesuring tool with parktool cc-4 you dont have this problem
A chain tool is way to cheap these days to use some other bs method. Lovebthat he called it out!
Cheers 👍. Still got a load of grief for it though 😂😂
First Aid kit-for yourself or other riders.
Lol this video came a week too late my chain crapped out on a 20% incline almost had me off 😅 yes people check your chain.
Haha!!!! I've seen that happen on a massive climb near me called Mow Cop. The poor guy smashed his knee on the bars when the chain snapped!!
No chain checker will tell you if a chain is going to break.
@@peterwillson1355 Agreed. However, a worn chain is more likely to break 🤔
@@peterwillson1355well it was a kmc x11 with about 3500 very hilly miles on it if that helps I've replaced it with a Dura ace chain.
@zedddddful I've had three 9 speed chains, two shimano 53s and one kmc , break this year. All were well within wear limits. The rivets are making very little contact with the plates, even when new. I wish I'd stuck with 7 and 8 speed cassettes.
If in any doubt replace every 2500 miles and
if you keep the chain and cassette in good
order you should get three or even possible
four chains out out the cassette. It works
for me...
I'm the same, Simon. If you keep on top of chain wear and maintenance, you should see 4 chains for every cassette. The cassette on my current road bike has over 5000 miles (8000km) on it, and there is no sign of wear.
Thanks for adding your thoughts.
If you use a chain checker tool, you only need to clean about 9" of chain (the span of the tool) that does not include the quick link, and measure that clean spot. That is easy to do without moving the bike or removing the chain, and if the chain _does_ need replacing, you haven't wasted materials and time cleaning the whole thing. If it's good to go, clean the rest. You can also use a top portion of the chain as long as you hold the rear wheel (or have it on the floor) and put a bit of forward pressure on the crank, tensioning the chain.
Brilliant advice. Simple but quite nuanced. Maybe go a step further and suggest getting a chain checker tool from a reputable maker? I may not trust a cheap Chinese maker to incorporate the required preciion of the tool.
You're not the first to mention that. The idea was to get people who don't do it, to do it. Which it's done. However, I've also had a lot of 'Those things are crap' comments. To be fair, they're better than nothing, but you're right, I'll follow it up. Will use my Park Tool CC-4 in the next one.
Tbh with prices of chains currently and using 105 groupset, i find that obsessing over chain is not cost effective. New casette/big chainring cost 2 times the value of a chain, smaller chainring is 1 time the cost. So a bad chain can potentially ruin the 5 times the cost of the drivetrain. If you run ultegra or other superexpensive stuff it makes way more sense to obsess over chain.
Never buy a chain from the well-known Internet auction site. I bought a Dura Ace chain and in about three months it 'stretched' one inch.
Good advice, Native. The £$20 Dura Ace chains on eBay are fake. I've got a video coming out on that soon.
I've found a 6" digital caliper to be the best tool. Extend the calipers out to 5". Stick the outer jaws between inner plates and then extend the calipers. A new chain will be around 5.2" and 0.5% wear is around 5.225".
You are measuring 5 and a half links minus the diameter of a roller. This will be 5.5" and a roller is precisely .3" in diameter so a new chain will measure around 5.2".
It's just as fast as using the chain checkers. It is more complicated only if you have to figure the numbers out yourself. I've lost trust in those chain checkers when I got one that was causing me to throw away chains too early. Digital calipers are easily confirmed with a micrometer. Chain checkers not so much.
I appreciate most of your videos, however I must agree to disagree with you on this one. 10 speed and above chains should be replaced at or before 0.5% wear. By the time it reaches 0.75% it is very likely a new chain will not mesh properly, and a new cassette and chainrings would be required. Letting it run to 1% as you suggest will certainly require the other drivetrain parts be replaced. Also be aware that on SRAM AXS 12 speed chains there are only 3 chain checkers that I am aware of that work because these chains use oversized rollers. These require a checker that isolates roller wear like the ParkTool CC-4, Shimano TL-CN42, or Pedros Chain Checker Plus II. I would still advise 0.5% on 9 and 8 speed chains to prevent wear, its just that because the roller width is wider (wider chains) the cassette teeth and chainring teeth are also wider so stand up to more abuse than the narrower modern stuff.
The chain as a whole stretches, although the individual links do not stretch
..except, technically, no metal has stretched.
Funny just watched a few videos ( long and boring full of super - nerdy comments by wannabe engineers ) trashing this method. Cyclists loooove to argue. Personally I think this method is perfectly sound.Peace out
About the bad methods: 12 links is 6 inches. That is 152,4 mm. So you need to see a difference of around 1 mm with measuringtape??? Good luck! That is why that one is bad.
You could have say that in my opinion...
Thanks for clearing that up, Markus. And yes, you're right, I could've. However, I did that video quickly and unscripted on the back of the mechanical/electronic video, so I didn't have the exact detail to hand. Probably should've taken more time on it, but wanted to take advantage of having the camera's setup in the workshop.
Thanks,
Jon
Why a vernier is not good? Do not give the answer. It's precise, it's accurate, if you have the specification from the manufacturer, for sure
Hi Pierre,
In my opinion, using a vernier calliper to check chain wear is both over the top, and complicated. If you’re checking the timing chain on an engine, then I get it….. but for a bicycle….. I’m not sure. In the right hands, a vernier calliper is a wonderful tool, but for a home mechanic to check chain wear on a bicycle, I think the chain checker is a simpler approach.
Thanks for watching,
Jon
Actually you can easily get away with just using a ruler. If you check over 24 links that is nominally 12" or 304.8mm; 1% is 3 mm roughly. Most people should be easily able to measure to less than 1mm or about 0.3% total wear.
Of course you probably have to take the chain off the bike and I have to admit the chain chequer tool and I have to admit the chain checker tool is a lot easier.
@@FiveMinuteVelo I have measured it on bike with ruler. Maybe not possible on every bike. It's important to sift to a gear where chain line is absolutely straight, also to get absolutely good result pull the chain so much that it would not sag down at middle. You can use laundry pegs as third hand to help to keep ruler against chain. Also you could measure a new chain first and compare the measure with the measure that you took yourself instead of 12". Maybe that way you get rid of some of measuring error caused by bent chain, or maybe not.. The pins in chain probably wear on their ends (chain edges) more than at middle, because chain is not always straight and.. Better would be to take chain off. Clean it properly and then measure. :)
it is good if you know how to(i use jaws for inner measure and i had to sand off sides because it is to wide and can not enter easy into chain and must pay attention that jaws are parallel with chain , to not to enter in gap between roller and side plate)
great advice and great lesson you give us thanks for that........hmmm but you blabla a bit too much...lol
Yeah I do. And I wave my arms around too much too 😬
5:25 if chain ring teeth are worn , then reshape it and save 100 pounds, it takes 10-12 minutes to do, what job on earth is paid 600pounds per working hour?
Next genius :/ last time I replaced my chain 10 years ago workiiing ? where is a problem ?
10 years, that’s a long time. 👍
if your bike is hanging on your wall, you just have to pump tires and rotate wheels to prevent bearings to weld
12’ video for 2’ of information. Take Mitutoyo caliper. Measure multiple links per OEM. Done.
You measured it wrong because you have the wrong tool! You should use, for example, the "TL-CNTL-WEAR-A1" or the "Chain Checker Plus II". Something that has a THREE-point design of the Chain Checker tool properly isolates pin wear from roller wear.
He did not. Ofcouse there's different types of measurement tools, some more precise than others. But as he uses it, it gives a very fine indication of wether a chain is worn or not.
Hi Wojciech,
I’m sure the SRAM TL-CNTL-WEAR-A1 Chain Wear Indicator is a wonderful tool. In this video, I use a chain checker tool that is compatible with the Shimano chain being measured.
Thanks for watching,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist If you use a gauge with two support points, it will show you that the chain is worn earlier than it actually is. This is because the rollers have gap at the pins, it doesn't interfere with anything and the gauge can indicate that the new chain is already worn.
I recommend you read or watch something about three point support gauges. For example the "Park tool cc-4", the "Pedros Chain Checker Plus II" or that SRAM I wrote about earlier.
@@iMarszi I have both types. One that isolates roller wear (shimano TL -CN42)and other that doesn't(Parktool CC 3.2). I still replace the chain before the expensive shimano tool tells me to do so. Because shifting goes bad, when rollers and side plates wear. But you are correct, if you want to get more off from a chain, then the type of tool that you recommend is better. I don't race so I can keep it a bit longer, than what CC3.2 recommends, but I enjoy my ride more, when chain is new, quieter and shifting is good. I also hotwax the chain to make it last longer, but ride also at winter.. In end it's still the riders decision, when to change the chain.. Tool is just to make it easier. If it says good it's good, but if it says bad, then I can look further, check it by using other methods.. Ruler and experience.. But experience gomes after tool and many chains and cassettes, beginners unfortunately have to get through with just a tool and hunch. :)
I wouldn't buy that cheap piece of crap metal. Get a Rohloff Caliber 2 instead. Less hassle, better results. A once in a lifetime buy.
Hi Garfie1d73,
The idea behind this video was to give the budding home cycling mechanic some basic guidance how to quickly and easily check the wear level of a chain. I will agree that not all chain checkers are equal, the Rohloff Caliber is a very good product, and if you can, you should invest in a good one. That’s why I showed screenshots of a few brand options in the video.
Thanks for watching,
Jon