This video is exactly what I needed to get a set myself. Been looking at them for awhile. But after breaking a ball joint while driving. With my cupped lowers. I realized pb arms geometry changes ball joint angle/binding. Definitely strong and safe move!
@@leatherneckboas are you asking about the ride right design arms? No they will not work. They are all narrow and you won’t be able to turn. The Choppin block factory alignment or the porterbuilt arms work.
Hey Travis - if you layout does the cross member touch the ground or the bottom of the control arms? I have CPP control arms and they hang lower than the cross member, but maybe that's just the way it is with what's available.
@@ShraederNST with my porterbuilt arms on lucky the crossmember touches the ground. With factory control arms or the others I’ve used it has about a 1/4 inch before it hits
I’m really only comparing the benefits of one compared to the other like powder coating, ball joint installation, and clarifying that if you go with narrow then get the right backspacing. I’m not really saying one is necessarily better than the other. I hope that came across clear in the video. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
@ I was really wanting to run the chopping block control arms the rims I’m going to run are 22x8.5 with an offset of 6. I’m assuming the backspacing would be around 5 inches. Would that be enough to clear you think?
@ I would go with porterbuilt. Too many people having issues with chopping block lately. They make great products but porterbuilt arms are better for that backspacing.
I have a porterbuilt level 3 kit. There narrowed and forward 1 inch. So does my buddy and he’s running mobsteel 22’s with 5 inch back spacing and they turn completely and lock perfectly. I wonder if it’s because we’re running the entire porterbuilt dropmember and not the stock one is why we’re not having the turn issues you had. I was empresses how easy you put the ball joints on the lowers. I had a hard time on my porterbuilt I ended us scratching the powder coat real bad But then again I used a 12 ton press
The problem was with the chopping block arms not the porterbuilt. The porterbuilt worked great. And a drop member changes everything in the front so that does factory in. Thanks so much for the feedback and watching. Sorry you scratched your arm. It will eventually get drug anyways haha.
I’m thinking of getting the PB 1in forward 1in narrow do you think I’ll have an issue with 5in back spacing? My Wheel size are 22x9 Thanks for the video! It’s like you knew I was getting ready to buy these. lol
No I have the porterbuilt dropmember. And I had to use the simple guide to cut out my inner fenders. That is of course I’m running 22’s and laying frame though
@@brentsheets117 I can’t really tell about camber yet but I can measure it once lucky is back. I can put a level on the outside of Francis with the factory arms and then lucky with the porterbuilt. Good question.
When using the stock trailing arm crossmember and trailing arms do you use the stock drive shaft with a carrier bearing or a 1 piece drive shaft? If it's a 1 piece drive shaft do you need to cut the top of the cross member out? Any advice is helpful, thank you for your advice in advance.
One piece driveshaft on short bed. Shorten the driveshaft about an inch. You’ll need to measure. You need to notch the trailing arm crossmember up top or change it to the tinworks one.
I have really bad camber on stock control arms (especially when aired out… will Porterbuilt arms help with that? Also, what exactly does the “narrowed” mean on their arms? The arms themselves are narrowed or they bring the wheel in, narrowing the width? Thanks!
Narrows the track width. What size wheels and tires do you have and do you have drop spindles, are your lowers cupped? Let me know more about your build. The camber actually helps with tucking these wheels when laid out but straightens up at ride height.
@@SIMPLE.C10 currently have 22x9 up front with 5 3/4” backspace. I will be getting new wheels same size up front except I will be running 6” backspace. 2.5” drop spindles lowers are cupped.
Chopping block sucks. They don’t want to warranty their work. They’re not what they say. They are. The ball joint geometry is wrong. I don’t like chopping block.
Pardon the noob question, but those porter built arms fit stock crossmember? PB website said they were for thier dropmember.
I have them available for stock crossmember and for their dropmember on my website.
This video is exactly what I needed to get a set myself. Been looking at them for awhile. But after breaking a ball joint while driving. With my cupped lowers. I realized pb arms geometry changes ball joint angle/binding. Definitely strong and safe move!
I’ve had a good experience with stock arms but it will be good to know if aftermarket make a huge difference.
Great video bro!
Thank you
Glad I found this video, thanks man 😎
Thanks for watching
Will the RDR upper and lower control arms work for 22inch transports? Will it give it good turning radius?
@@leatherneckboas are you asking about the ride right design arms? No they will not work. They are all narrow and you won’t be able to turn. The Choppin block factory alignment or the porterbuilt arms work.
@SIMPLE.C10 ok great. Thank you for the information.
@leatherneckboas you’re welcome. I offer both options on my website.
Do these arms lay the front crossmember? I wonder what tire heights are recommended?
Hey Travis - if you layout does the cross member touch the ground or the bottom of the control arms? I have CPP control arms and they hang lower than the cross member, but maybe that's just the way it is with what's available.
@@ShraederNST with my porterbuilt arms on lucky the crossmember touches the ground. With factory control arms or the others I’ve used it has about a 1/4 inch before it hits
Do you prefer the porters over any other control arm manufacturers? They seem superior to all the other options out there.
They are my preferred choice but the chopping block are good if you have the right backspacing
@@SIMPLE.C10 appreciate it!! Keep up the great content!
Both great companies.
I believe you're comparing apples to oranges as one set is narrowed and the other isn't.
I’m really only comparing the benefits of one compared to the other like powder coating, ball joint installation, and clarifying that if you go with narrow then get the right backspacing. I’m not really saying one is necessarily better than the other. I hope that came across clear in the video. Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
They look nice it’s getting there good job
Thanks!
I’m about to do my front end on my 68 and wheels too, what rims are these?
@@coreymcneil5372 Santa Cruz by us mag 22x9
@ I was really wanting to run the chopping block control arms the rims I’m going to run are 22x8.5 with an offset of 6. I’m assuming the backspacing would be around 5 inches. Would that be enough to clear you think?
@ I would go with porterbuilt. Too many people having issues with chopping block lately. They make great products but porterbuilt arms are better for that backspacing.
@ right on, thanks for your help.
@ simplec10.myshopify.com/products/60-87-tubular-control-arms-porterbuilt?_pos=1&_sid=642f8dc76&_ss=r
Great stuff as always. Hopefully when I start on my 58 apache I can figure all this out.
Let me know when you start!
100% after market plug and play kits 👍👍👍
Yes sir
I have a porterbuilt level 3 kit. There narrowed and forward 1 inch. So does my buddy and he’s running mobsteel 22’s with 5 inch back spacing and they turn completely and lock perfectly. I wonder if it’s because we’re running the entire porterbuilt dropmember and not the stock one is why we’re not having the turn issues you had. I was empresses how easy you put the ball joints on the lowers. I had a hard time on my porterbuilt I ended us scratching the powder coat real bad But then again I used a 12 ton press
The problem was with the chopping block arms not the porterbuilt. The porterbuilt worked great. And a drop member changes everything in the front so that does factory in. Thanks so much for the feedback and watching. Sorry you scratched your arm. It will eventually get drug anyways haha.
What ball joints would you suggest to go with the porters? I have a 64.
Whatever your spindles take.
@@SIMPLE.C10 I’ve got the CPP drop spindles. I’ve heard the 70’s ball joints are better.
I’m thinking of getting the PB 1in forward 1in narrow do you think I’ll have an issue with 5in back spacing? My Wheel size are 22x9
Thanks for the video! It’s like you knew I was getting ready to buy these. lol
I think you would be fine with the porterbuilt ones. Your tire may get real close to the shock at full lock.
Do you have a link budd I have the same system p3 performance how 2017 single cab do they make any for that Chevy 1500 thanks
With the Porter Built control arms can you still run stock inter fenders with them being cut out
No I have the porterbuilt dropmember. And I had to use the simple guide to cut out my inner fenders. That is of course I’m running 22’s and laying frame though
Yes you can run factory inners with the simple guide cut out. That’s what I’m doing. It depends on your backspacing though.
I’m running transport wheels and have simple guide cut outs.. do these control arms help with camber
@@brentsheets117 I can’t really tell about camber yet but I can measure it once lucky is back. I can put a level on the outside of Francis with the factory arms and then lucky with the porterbuilt. Good question.
I like the control arms I just bought 4.5 backspace they work for now, what size tires are those I know 22” but what is the sidewall
That wasn’t a mistake it was a learning moment for me it would be an expensive learning moment if I was to change arms
When using the stock trailing arm crossmember and trailing arms do you use the stock drive shaft with a carrier bearing or a 1 piece drive shaft? If it's a 1 piece drive shaft do you need to cut the top of the cross member out? Any advice is helpful, thank you for your advice in advance.
One piece driveshaft on short bed. Shorten the driveshaft about an inch. You’ll need to measure. You need to notch the trailing arm crossmember up top or change it to the tinworks one.
I have really bad camber on stock control arms (especially when aired out… will Porterbuilt arms help with that?
Also, what exactly does the “narrowed” mean on their arms? The arms themselves are narrowed or they bring the wheel in, narrowing the width? Thanks!
Narrows the track width.
What size wheels and tires do you have and do you have drop spindles, are your lowers cupped? Let me know more about your build. The camber actually helps with tucking these wheels when laid out but straightens up at ride height.
@@SIMPLE.C10 currently have 22x9 up front with 5 3/4” backspace. I will be getting new wheels same size up front except I will be running 6” backspace.
2.5” drop spindles lowers are cupped.
How much for the chopping block arms lol
I have them on my site www.simplec10.co
Wannna donate me the chopping block arms??
Sorry. I sold them already.
Chopping block sucks. They don’t want to warranty their work. They’re not what they say. They are. The ball joint geometry is wrong. I don’t like chopping block.