Wow, you did a fantastic job, that came out looking great! I've always questioned OSB as well. It just doesn't seam anywhere near as sturdy as plywood. Before we bought our house, while house shopping, we looked at a lot of homes build in the 1980's and 90's. Many of those were built with OSB flooring. My wife and I called them "trampoline floors" because they were so bouncy. We ended up buying a house built in 1960 or 61, that has 2x6 T&G car decking subfloor. The floors are rock solid. I don't know of anything better for subfloor in my opinion. My house has what today is somewhat unusual with steel siding. It has a wood grain texture stamped into it and really has held up very, very well, still looking new, but it can be difficult to work with. I'd like to do this kind of treatment around all the windows and doors, including the garage door. PVC seams like a great choice for my local climate in Kent, Washington. I wasn't aware that PVC expanded and contracted significantly, so I will be paying attention to that when I take this on.
Sweet! This just changed my door trim plan! I'm going to do that exact trim set up around my garage door and windows, with the crown on top. Need to go get bigger flashing and crown molding. Thank you!
Looks so great! There is no way we could do this ourselves. Could you give me an idea what type of contractor we should seek out to do this, and very ballpark what order of magnitude it should cost? Wish you were in our area.
There are so many variations as far as regional costs and your garage itself there's no way I could even guess your cost. For most carpenters and situations this will be a day or two of labor. A day if your circumstances are not difficult, two days if there are some wrinkles in the existing structure to be addressed. Ideally you should look for a carpenter or perhaps a siding contractor.
I believe I found something off-the-shelf which happened to fit. Typically there is a rack of flashing available in your favorite box store. Otherwise, you can rent a metal brake and bend your own out of roll stock.
You'll have to get an estimate from a local contractor, but there wouldn't be a major difference between a double opening like in the video or a single double-wide opening. The only thing you'd need to watch is the available length of the PVC material and it may need to be pieced together.
For the mitered edges of the sides and also for the mitered ends of the moulding, a PVC glue is used. However, you can use stainless fasteners to hold the assembly together while the glue sets up. See this video which has more information in this regard: ruclips.net/video/vt7zqj2MoyE/видео.html
Beautiful job, I need to get an estimate for this for my three car garage. Where are you located and can I get a ballpark of what you charged for this transformation. Thanks
The cost of this sort of thing will vary depending on your location and the specifics of your house. The type of siding you have, how the opening was framed, the size of the opening, the style of your doors, and other factors can all play into the cost. Any local carpenter to you should be able to take a look and give you an idea.
If I wanted to get something like this done what could I type in Google search to get a company to come and do this so I will be getting a new garage door in black soon I want to replace the trim since I have white and it looks wore out also I don't know what kind of material it is I think its a light metal unless it vinyl
Painting PVC trim a dark color is not recommended because the dark color absorbs heat and creates issues with expansion. There is at least one company (I think it is Sherwin Williams) which makes a dark paint said to work over PVC, but I have not tried it. So, if you are getting a custom black garage door and you want black trim as well, you may need to either use wood or have a company install custom aluminum stock over some structure. I would suggest asking your garage door installer if they have a recommendation. A window and siding company might do the custom aluminum stock bending and installation for you. A carpenter might do custom wood trim for you.
@@enduringcharm thanks for the quick response but I don't think what I have now is pvc cuz it looks like a sheet of aluminum or a thing metal but yea I will ask the garage door company
Yes, that's what I mean by aluminum stock--it's rolls of aluminum flashing that can be bent into various shapes on site. If you already have that installed you could certainly paint it a dark color. The garage door company can likely add or replace a few pieces if necessary.
Well, in an ideal world, the self adhesive flashing goes over the aluminum flashing at it's bottom and at it's top it would slip under the building paper (tar paper, felt, tyvek, etc.). However, when you are doing work like this with siding already installed, you may have little choice but to install the self-adhesive flashing over the building paper.
Any tips on how to clean and dry black aluminum garage trim ? I see that I commented on this video before and I ended up getting a black aluminum trim it seems dirty I was planning on maybe using water and dawn soap but is there something u recommend to clean and dry it to not scratch it ?
You seem to be describing aluminum coil stock which was custom bent for your garage, or perhaps the same idea in an off-the-shelf form. Using any abrasive on this material will indeed scratch it. You could use a soft sponge or cotton rag and an automotive "car wash" detergent, though. Let the soap do the work rather than scrubbing hard.
This looks great! Also, I found it at a perfect time, as I'm in the process of doing this right now on my house. The one question I have is what the "bed moulding" is exactly. Is it something Azek makes, and if so, what's the item number? Thanks!
Bed molding is a standard molding profile, typically in 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 width. It can be found in wood, vinyl and PVC. any lumberyard or home center has it.
I see a couple reminders that aluminum flashing has really sharp edges! What did you do for the seam between the vertical siding and the edges of the siding?
I'm not sure I follow your question. If you are asking what happens at the end of the flashing where the top trim section meets the siding, the flashing is turned over onto the end. Water that collects up top will spill over the side and run down the wall. Of course, the narrow gap is caulked an painted. The turned over edge of the flashing is about 3/4" on the sides.
Do you have vinyl siding? I'm thinking you must be describing "J-channel" which is an edging that goes between siding and trim or windows/doors. You can abut trim to J channel, though it may not look as nice.
Thanks for this video!! Did you use an angle brake to create the aluminum top cap flashing? Or is that a standard part? Thanks again. Really great stuff
I believe that flashing was something I found off the shelf which just happened to work. I don't even remember what it's original purpose is for. However, you can rent a brake if you can't find something off the shelf. Or, you may find a local siding contractor who will make the flashing for you.
All products have advantages and disadvantages. Fiber cement boards will not rot and they take paint well. Not super easy to work with and they may tend to chip at the edges over time in a high traffic area. Boral is another product some people like, although that also can be difficult to work with. I just put up a video recently on a new product called Acre, which I like a lot but which may be hard to find because it is so new: ruclips.net/video/Jgvc-bypjBs/видео.html
Sorry, that's out of my service area, which is mostly Hunterdon and parts of Somerset county. You should be able to find somebody local to do this work, though, if you ask around.
Well, you can purchase caps to put over the screws and some people attempt to use a filler that hardens. These things tend to come out over time, though, as the PVC expands and contracts. I typically use a high-flex paintable caulk and apply with a putty knife for a level fill. Paint over that with the board and it disappears.
Are you asking about using 4x8 sheets of PVC versus using PVC boards? PVC does come in 3/4" and 1/2" 4x8 sheets, which I often use as panels for some trim installations. You could rip those down for use as trim, but there are several reasons why that isn't a good idea. For one thing, you would be limited to 8 foot lengths. Trim boards come in 18 or 16 foot lengths. Sheet panels are not as readily available in my area, either. They are very heavy and difficult to handle, so getting clean cuts on a table saw can be a pain. On the other hand, if you need lengths under 8 feet and perhaps you need widths that are wider than trim boards allow, ripping sheets down might work for you. Cost is another factor, so if you are not going to use most of the sheet it probably wouldn't make sense either.
You can still do something similar, but you will have "J-channel" along the edge of the trim to accept the siding. Or, you could ditch the J-channel and use the PVC to creast an overlapping pocket to hide the edge of the siding.
Question: Have the PVC joints held up? It seems like after a year or so, the expansion and contraction would start to pull on the joints and the caulking and create gaps. I'm about to redo my garage opening and was considering PVC. Thanks
Thing with PVC is that you need to use all PVC and not try to mix wood and PVC together. If it expands and contracts together it will be fine. Where you must caulk joints, use one of the newer latex caulks with extreme stretch capability.
@@enduringcharm Thank you for replying. The problem in my mind is that you're always installing the PVC onto wood (framing). Maybe there just isn't as much of a difference as I'm thinking.
Oh, the framing and sheathing you don't need to worry about. The trouble can come when you have wood trim and PVC trim together or wood siding next to PVC trim, etc.
@mike Not necessarily. The problem starts when you create an assembly of mixed PVC and wood without allowing for the differences in expansion and contraction. If you plan for it you can be successful. The planning may include overlaps, additional tolerances for spacing and the use of caulks with high stretch-ability. Window trim may overlap the clapboard siding, for example, or with extra care in flashing underneath and the use of a caulk with high stretch you may be fine. A narrower trim will expand and contract less than a wide trim.
Do you mean length? The standard Azek "boards" come in 18 foot lengths and some other PVC brands it may be 16 feet. I think 12 inches is the widest width for boards. You can also buy 4x8 sheets in 1/4 and 1/2 inch thickness.
That was easily one of the best transformations (and explanations) I’ve seen. Very nice work, man. Thanks for sharing.
A vast improvement! A much more complicated process than the classic, simple, yet elegant end results would indicate.
Yeah, there is some work involved to get rid of the old mess, but it is such an improvement.
Looks great. Your attention to detail and additional touches to help protect and beautify the installation are fantastic.
Wow, you did a fantastic job, that came out looking great! I've always questioned OSB as well. It just doesn't seam anywhere near as sturdy as plywood. Before we bought our house, while house shopping, we looked at a lot of homes build in the 1980's and 90's. Many of those were built with OSB flooring. My wife and I called them "trampoline floors" because they were so bouncy. We ended up buying a house built in 1960 or 61, that has 2x6 T&G car decking subfloor. The floors are rock solid. I don't know of anything better for subfloor in my opinion. My house has what today is somewhat unusual with steel siding. It has a wood grain texture stamped into it and really has held up very, very well, still looking new, but it can be difficult to work with. I'd like to do this kind of treatment around all the windows and doors, including the garage door. PVC seams like a great choice for my local climate in Kent, Washington. I wasn't aware that PVC expanded and contracted significantly, so I will be paying attention to that when I take this on.
Perfect! I learned so much. We, and by that I mean me will do it as soon as the weather gets warmer. Thanks for all the details.
Absolutely love it - doing something similar this week on my remodel.
Sweet! This just changed my door trim plan! I'm going to do that exact trim set up around my garage door and windows, with the crown on top. Need to go get bigger flashing and crown molding. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Nice transformation , it looks great and very clean lines .
Nice job , looks great , moulding inside and outside brings a lot of character to the house.
This is amazing. I now have hope that we can transform our terrible clipped cornered garage to squared off. Now to find a carpenter!
Good luck!
Love it. I have the same ugly old trim on my garage.
Looks great. Would have been nice to be able to see you create the look, as you were building up the installation
Yeah, it's just me doing the work and the filming, so I can't always get everything on video or else nothing would get done!
Very involved but looks so much better. May be doing this for a new customer. Let's see if she will be OK with estimate.
Yes, it is more work, but usually better looking installations do require more work!
Nice job. Classic design is always best.
Thanks for the video. This is exactly what I need to do but siding know how to do it. I don’t have to hire anyone now!
Looks so great! There is no way we could do this ourselves. Could you give me an idea what type of contractor we should seek out to do this, and very ballpark what order of magnitude it should cost? Wish you were in our area.
There are so many variations as far as regional costs and your garage itself there's no way I could even guess your cost. For most carpenters and situations this will be a day or two of labor. A day if your circumstances are not difficult, two days if there are some wrinkles in the existing structure to be addressed. Ideally you should look for a carpenter or perhaps a siding contractor.
Great video and a nice upgrade...Thanks!
Great inspiring job!
Love the outcome
Great video!
Thanks!
Very informative...nice work
Looks great!
Really nice job. What did you use for flashing on the top? Wish you provided a closer / more detailed shoot of the top flashing.
I believe I found something off-the-shelf which happened to fit. Typically there is a rack of flashing available in your favorite box store. Otherwise, you can rent a metal brake and bend your own out of roll stock.
This is what I need done how much would this be on a double wide ?
You'll have to get an estimate from a local contractor, but there wouldn't be a major difference between a double opening like in the video or a single double-wide opening. The only thing you'd need to watch is the available length of the PVC material and it may need to be pieced together.
How do the mitered pvc pieces come together? Are they glued or shot with fasteners?
For the mitered edges of the sides and also for the mitered ends of the moulding, a PVC glue is used. However, you can use stainless fasteners to hold the assembly together while the glue sets up. See this video which has more information in this regard: ruclips.net/video/vt7zqj2MoyE/видео.html
Beautiful job, I need to get an estimate for this for my three car garage. Where are you located and can I get a ballpark of what you charged for this transformation. Thanks
The cost of this sort of thing will vary depending on your location and the specifics of your house. The type of siding you have, how the opening was framed, the size of the opening, the style of your doors, and other factors can all play into the cost. Any local carpenter to you should be able to take a look and give you an idea.
If I wanted to get something like this done what could I type in Google search to get a company to come and do this so I will be getting a new garage door in black soon I want to replace the trim since I have white and it looks wore out also I don't know what kind of material it is I think its a light metal unless it vinyl
Painting PVC trim a dark color is not recommended because the dark color absorbs heat and creates issues with expansion. There is at least one company (I think it is Sherwin Williams) which makes a dark paint said to work over PVC, but I have not tried it. So, if you are getting a custom black garage door and you want black trim as well, you may need to either use wood or have a company install custom aluminum stock over some structure. I would suggest asking your garage door installer if they have a recommendation. A window and siding company might do the custom aluminum stock bending and installation for you. A carpenter might do custom wood trim for you.
@@enduringcharm thanks for the quick response but I don't think what I have now is pvc cuz it looks like a sheet of aluminum or a thing metal but yea I will ask the garage door company
Yes, that's what I mean by aluminum stock--it's rolls of aluminum flashing that can be bent into various shapes on site. If you already have that installed you could certainly paint it a dark color. The garage door company can likely add or replace a few pieces if necessary.
Really great work and video. Does the self adhesive flashing go under the edge of clapboards or just butt up against it? Thanks!
Well, in an ideal world, the self adhesive flashing goes over the aluminum flashing at it's bottom and at it's top it would slip under the building paper (tar paper, felt, tyvek, etc.). However, when you are doing work like this with siding already installed, you may have little choice but to install the self-adhesive flashing over the building paper.
Any tips on how to clean and dry black aluminum garage trim ? I see that I commented on this video before and I ended up getting a black aluminum trim it seems dirty I was planning on maybe using water and dawn soap but is there something u recommend to clean and dry it to not scratch it ?
You seem to be describing aluminum coil stock which was custom bent for your garage, or perhaps the same idea in an off-the-shelf form. Using any abrasive on this material will indeed scratch it. You could use a soft sponge or cotton rag and an automotive "car wash" detergent, though. Let the soap do the work rather than scrubbing hard.
This looks great! Also, I found it at a perfect time, as I'm in the process of doing this right now on my house. The one question I have is what the "bed moulding" is exactly. Is it something Azek makes, and if so, what's the item number? Thanks!
Bed molding is a standard molding profile, typically in 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 width. It can be found in wood, vinyl and PVC. any lumberyard or home center has it.
I see a couple reminders that aluminum flashing has really sharp edges! What did you do for the seam between the vertical siding and the edges of the siding?
I'm not sure I follow your question. If you are asking what happens at the end of the flashing where the top trim section meets the siding, the flashing is turned over onto the end. Water that collects up top will spill over the side and run down the wall. Of course, the narrow gap is caulked an painted. The turned over edge of the flashing is about 3/4" on the sides.
Can this be done if there is a flange where the siding meets the trim? It seems to be going under the siding as well.
Do you have vinyl siding? I'm thinking you must be describing "J-channel" which is an edging that goes between siding and trim or windows/doors. You can abut trim to J channel, though it may not look as nice.
Thanks for this video!! Did you use an angle brake to create the aluminum top cap flashing? Or is that a standard part? Thanks again. Really great stuff
I believe that flashing was something I found off the shelf which just happened to work. I don't even remember what it's original purpose is for. However, you can rent a brake if you can't find something off the shelf. Or, you may find a local siding contractor who will make the flashing for you.
@@enduringcharm thanks so much! Love it
You didn't show how you changed the rounded corners to 90 degrees 😢
Did you watch the whole video? The old siding is just cut back to create the 90 instead of the 45. See again starting at 13:46.
How do you feel about cement fiber board trim instead of pvc?
All products have advantages and disadvantages. Fiber cement boards will not rot and they take paint well. Not super easy to work with and they may tend to chip at the edges over time in a high traffic area. Boral is another product some people like, although that also can be difficult to work with. I just put up a video recently on a new product called Acre, which I like a lot but which may be hard to find because it is so new: ruclips.net/video/Jgvc-bypjBs/видео.html
Hello John, you’re located in NJ? I’m in Edison and my garage is in need of a re-trim.
Sorry, that's out of my service area, which is mostly Hunterdon and parts of Somerset county. You should be able to find somebody local to do this work, though, if you ask around.
Great work! I was wondering, what did you used to fill the screws before painting?
Well, you can purchase caps to put over the screws and some people attempt to use a filler that hardens. These things tend to come out over time, though, as the PVC expands and contracts. I typically use a high-flex paintable caulk and apply with a putty knife for a level fill. Paint over that with the board and it disappears.
Thanks a bunch!
Why wouldn't you just use sheets of pvc ripped to size to cover the door jamb and cap with moulding ?
Are you asking about using 4x8 sheets of PVC versus using PVC boards? PVC does come in 3/4" and 1/2" 4x8 sheets, which I often use as panels for some trim installations. You could rip those down for use as trim, but there are several reasons why that isn't a good idea. For one thing, you would be limited to 8 foot lengths. Trim boards come in 18 or 16 foot lengths. Sheet panels are not as readily available in my area, either. They are very heavy and difficult to handle, so getting clean cuts on a table saw can be a pain. On the other hand, if you need lengths under 8 feet and perhaps you need widths that are wider than trim boards allow, ripping sheets down might work for you. Cost is another factor, so if you are not going to use most of the sheet it probably wouldn't make sense either.
What would you do if this was vinyl siding?
You can still do something similar, but you will have "J-channel" along the edge of the trim to accept the siding. Or, you could ditch the J-channel and use the PVC to creast an overlapping pocket to hide the edge of the siding.
Question: Have the PVC joints held up? It seems like after a year or so, the expansion and contraction would start to pull on the joints and the caulking and create gaps. I'm about to redo my garage opening and was considering PVC. Thanks
Thing with PVC is that you need to use all PVC and not try to mix wood and PVC together. If it expands and contracts together it will be fine. Where you must caulk joints, use one of the newer latex caulks with extreme stretch capability.
@@enduringcharm Thank you for replying. The problem in my mind is that you're always installing the PVC onto wood (framing). Maybe there just isn't as much of a difference as I'm thinking.
Oh, the framing and sheathing you don't need to worry about. The trouble can come when you have wood trim and PVC trim together or wood siding next to PVC trim, etc.
@@enduringcharm so based on this statement, is it a bad idea to replace rotted wooden window trim with pvc if I have cedar clapboard siding?
@mike Not necessarily. The problem starts when you create an assembly of mixed PVC and wood without allowing for the differences in expansion and contraction. If you plan for it you can be successful. The planning may include overlaps, additional tolerances for spacing and the use of caulks with high stretch-ability. Window trim may overlap the clapboard siding, for example, or with extra care in flashing underneath and the use of a caulk with high stretch you may be fine. A narrower trim will expand and contract less than a wide trim.
How wide of sheets can you buy from azek ? I have garage chasing that’s 13 3/8 wide .
Do you mean length? The standard Azek "boards" come in 18 foot lengths and some other PVC brands it may be 16 feet. I think 12 inches is the widest width for boards. You can also buy 4x8 sheets in 1/4 and 1/2 inch thickness.
What did you use on the top? Is that a crown?
The moulding up top is known as a "bed" moulding and it's a very common profile you can find at any lumber yard or box store.
Cost of pvc trim is $$. It does last though
Cost of ANYTHING is expensive now! You do have to choose your materials wisely these days, and match the material to the need.