Sir, I have been watching your channel for months an am very grateful you are showing coach making. I had a friend your age that would let me learn at his shop when I was just out of highschool. He committed suicide many years ago. Miss him and seeing you teach this is like I get to see Victor again. What you are doing is unique and important. Thank you kindly.
Rex here in Inglewood Taranaki New Zealand. I am building a Lotus 7 kit car. Tommorow I will start to make the alloy skin. Your video inspired me. God Bless
That extended dolly looks handy for not folding your thumb as well Wray :D .Looking forward to seeing how the RUclips Wheel handles planishing steel walnuts down.
I like those sharp pointed dollies. I haven't taken the time to modify any like that yet. Definitely on my list for the next time I start beating panels.
21:45 In the grand scheme of things .007" is not much but it is a 20% reduction from the original .035" thickness. Thanks for another informative video.
I hope you cut the next version with shrinking too. It will be interesting to see how much less is lost in the stretched sections and how much thickness is gained in the shrunk sections.
Another brilliant video, thank you for continuing to share. Really surprised, such a small amount of thinning for the amount of stretching, every day's a school day 👍
@@proshaper It is as close to tig as anyone has ever been able to come to. But mig will never be able to match tig. I stich weld 7 to 10 welds. Then I grind the weld while it is still hot. Releasing the heat from the weld with the grinding process. Then I start my next weld on top of the ground weld seam. This eliminates pin holes. It breaks up the monotony of welding the whole panel and coming back and grinding. Plus you are heating the panel fewer times. Because you are heating and grinding at the same time. Rather then heating during welding. Then coming back and adding heat again with the grinding process. It also minimizes warpage because you are working the panel as you go. The weld is not as soft as a tig weld. But it is softer than an ambient temp cooled mig weld. And absolutely softer than an air quenched or water quenched mig weld. I discourage quenching every time I see someone do it. I have shown this process to several people. Three have tried it and said it made a marked difference in the weld and the final panel results. I prefer to tig when I have access to the back side of a panel.
@@boonelipsey5393 I like your mig welding explanation and it makes a lot of sense. The immediate grinding slows the cooling process which guards against cracking and softens the weld bead. I also like how you are being practical , preferring mig welding when there is no back side access. You tig weld when you do have access- that is good practical process. Thanks, I will mention this and credit you in a upcoming video.
Thank you. That is so awesome. I hope you try it and find it useful. I hope others find it useful and can refine the process and share with us their experiences.
i watched your channel in french today. (okay, it was axiom, a former student of yours.) he was making a flexible shape pattern for a porsche wheel flair.
Hi Wray. I thought your previous video showed the panels tacked . Did l fall asleep and miss the welding ?! I've very recently bought a foot operated shrinker /stretcher (about 50 years too late !) I have some wire edging to do on my "e"type bonnet repairs . Can't get used to you working mild steel . Thanks Wray.
Hello first of all I would like to thank you for taking the time to make these videos and I hope to come to a class sometime, I was wondering if you could tell me what size electrode and wire size do you use when tig welding sheet metal? Thanks again! I absolutely love your work
Thanks your so much for this Beginners Series. Superb work and amazing productivity. I really like it. You have mentioned that you can close up a half inch gap with TIG - could you explain or show how? And what steel are your lower anvils on the English Wheel made off, when you say they are not hardened?
To fill a gap with a tig you slowly build the sides until you can bridge the two sides. Best not to have any gaps in your weld joints but they happen. Lower anvils if you don't abuse them ( try to wheel plasma cut edges of steel sheet, or wheel over steel weld nuggets, or rough sharp edges) will last a lifetime. I have a soft top wheel we have been using on my reverse curve wheel ( it is just mild steel) it has a slight convex face on it. That top wheel we have been using for four years or more with many classes and there has never been any problem with it.
@@proshaper Thank you so much for taking time to answer and I will stay tuned for more videos as they come and practice some of the things you mention. Stay Safe.
Is corrosion an issue with the bare metal in the wire edge? Also, do you use aluminum wire on an aluminum panel wire edge? Thanks for cranking out the high value content lately.
Hi Wray - though you didn't use it in this video, I'm interested in building a scaled down version of your shrinking (gathering) tool. What are those dies made of? And do you sell them and the plans for the tool. Really learning a lot from these videos. Thanks - Peter
@@proshaper any car. A quarter panel door jam has so many different bends, angles and shapes. They, in my opinion, can be the hardest to duplicate. I find myself doing them in multiple pieces. Just curious if you have any tricks? Lol
Maybe a video with only simple hand tools? I haven't seen anything like that on the RUclips community. I've seen some, very basic, with a bead roller. Would love to see how to do the complicated transition from quarter panel to door jam. Any kind of car really. Something from the 60s-70s would probably have a more complicated jam. Would really love to see you do a complete car from scratch. From pictures, to rendering, to wire buck, to finished product.
Hi Danny, I'm assuming the one I use for edge tipping and edge definition. That one I made from 4140. I went to the local scrap yard 25 years ago and there was a pile of 4140 end cut offs just sitting in the pile recently thrown out, they were all labeled too on the end. About 10 years ago I sliced up one of the end cutoffs, ground it to the desired shape and then polished it. I have a small electric heat treating oven and I hardened it. It is one of my favorite body dollies.
@@proshaper thanks for the reply..yes I meant the one you used first in video think it was the same as the one you used when you hammer and dollied the weld
Hi Wray, Fantastic to watch you work. I have been looking at a panel i want to make and wondering about the shrinked area. Exactly right. Scared to shrink and scared to weld. Question: How would one go about tipping an edge in with a radius bend (20mm Radius bent at 90 degrees) (not a 90 degree corner) but on a curved surface so its shrinking. regards Paul
@@proshaper Thank you, look forward to it. I can do a sketch if needs be. One of those things with terms that is difficult to explain. Have a great day. Paul
Yes, you can fold them over 180 degrees or we have found it is much easier to weld on the hemmed edge. Say you make fender out .040" steel ( 19 gauge) , shear a 3/8" strip of 16 gauge shrink or stretch it to fit the contour of the edge of the fender, clamp it on and fusion weld it with a tig welder. It is fast an easy to do and makes a very strong accurate edge for the fender.
Do you have the same welder that you are using in the video in your Amazon store? The link goes to a welder with a different trigger/switch and that is one of the features I am most interested in. And does the welder you are using have HF for aluminum?
Yes, it's the Everlast 210 EXT. Yes, it has a pedal and trigger. Yes, it has HF and Pulse. It is an excellent welder and a bargain. I have two of them.
Love all your videos. Do you put a 1/8” steel rod in the rolled edge on aluminum or 1/8” aluminum rod? I would think that a steel/aluminum combination would create electrolytic corrosion. Am I wrong?
I just answered the same question. The practice of wiring edges of fenders happened on millions of cars. Do they cause rust? I have seen some wires that slowly rust away over a 75 year period. Rust or corrosion is not a concern for a good weather only pampered collector car. You can make improvements but history has proved to us that it might not be needed.
@@proshaper I think he was referring to using dissimilar metals together vs the same metal type. I think dissimilar metals together accelerate corrosion.
Wray, You take about the gauge of steel you are using but I haven't heard you say anything about the hardness. Are you using just cold roll, or something else.
I always use this method for the wire edge and it never let me down ,.... 3 times the thickness of the wire + the thickness of the material . Example...... if the wire is 4 mm thick and the material is 1 mm thick, then the flange should be 4 x 3 = 12 mm + 1 mm material total of the flange is 13 mm.
That’s a simple solution. I decided to dust off my geometry skills to check it and since the circumference of a circle = 2(pi)r, a wire that is 1/8” means the flange should be about 0.39” when adding the thickness of sheet, or just over the 3/8” Wray suggests. Your quick method avoids having break out the scientific calculator!
Sir, I have been watching your channel for months an am very grateful you are showing coach making. I had a friend your age that would let me learn at his shop when I was just out of highschool. He committed suicide many years ago. Miss him and seeing you teach this is like I get to see Victor again. What you are doing is unique and important. Thank you kindly.
Rex here in Inglewood Taranaki New Zealand. I am building a Lotus 7 kit car. Tommorow I will start to make the alloy skin. Your video inspired me. God Bless
Wish I had all this info 30 yrs ago. Love the no nonsense commentary and the lack of music. Full marks all round.
Hi Grant make sure you watch my other videos, I have 291 of them.
Love this series because you’re working with “steel”. Looking forward to the “shrinking” series!
Great work. Helping me learn so I can tackle a 1946 Ford truck I have.
That extended dolly looks handy for not folding your thumb as well Wray :D .Looking forward to seeing how the RUclips Wheel handles planishing steel walnuts down.
Thanks Wray! This couldn't have come at a better time. Loving the techniques
I like those sharp pointed dollies. I haven't taken the time to modify any like that yet. Definitely on my list for the next time I start beating panels.
21:45 In the grand scheme of things .007" is not much but it is a 20% reduction from the original .035" thickness.
Thanks for another informative video.
I hope you cut the next version with shrinking too. It will be interesting to see how much less is lost in the stretched sections and how much thickness is gained in the shrunk sections.
loving this set of videos
I could watch these vids all day long
I enjoy watching your videos. Thank you for all of the info
You are the master , great series please keep up with your great teaching & looking forward for when you do the other side.👍😀
Would be great if u had an episode that told your story a bit more...ur grandfather and how you transitioned to metal shaping. Watch you every day
Hi Kris, we were talking about that the other day in the shop. I'll try to work it into an upcoming video. Thanks! Wray
@@proshaper That would be interesting to listen to. Hopefully you'll include some old photographs as well.
Another brilliant video, thank you for continuing to share. Really surprised, such a small amount of thinning for the amount of stretching, every day's a school day 👍
Another great tutorial, thanks so much for sharing 👏👏👏👏
This was fascinating...
Another great tutorial Wray.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Wray these tutorials are very helpful.
Excellent content- as usual !! Thanks, Wray
I developed a mig welding process that helps keep the weld softer and minimize cracking.
If it works for you fine. Have you compared it with tig welding?
@@proshaper It is as close to tig as anyone has ever been able to come to. But mig will never be able to match tig. I stich weld 7 to 10 welds. Then I grind the weld while it is still hot. Releasing the heat from the weld with the grinding process. Then I start my next weld on top of the ground weld seam. This eliminates pin holes. It breaks up the monotony of welding the whole panel and coming back and grinding. Plus you are heating the panel fewer times. Because you are heating and grinding at the same time. Rather then heating during welding. Then coming back and adding heat again with the grinding process. It also minimizes warpage because you are working the panel as you go. The weld is not as soft as a tig weld. But it is softer than an ambient temp cooled mig weld. And absolutely softer than an air quenched or water quenched mig weld. I discourage quenching every time I see someone do it. I have shown this process to several people. Three have tried it and said it made a marked difference in the weld and the final panel results. I prefer to tig when I have access to the back side of a panel.
@@boonelipsey5393 I like your mig welding explanation and it makes a lot of sense. The immediate grinding slows the cooling process which guards against cracking and softens the weld bead. I also like how you are being practical , preferring mig welding when there is no back side access. You tig weld when you do have access- that is good practical process. Thanks, I will mention this and credit you in a upcoming video.
Thank you. That is so awesome. I hope you try it and find it useful. I hope others find it useful and can refine the process and share with us their experiences.
@@boonelipsey5393 Interesting idea. I'll have to give it a try.
Great pointers in shaping. Thanks
Nicely done
i watched your channel in french today. (okay, it was axiom, a former student of yours.) he was making a flexible shape pattern for a porsche wheel flair.
Fred, is super motivated and a very fast learner. He always strives to improve his skills.
I can't believe that I've never used a slapper to do a flange!! It makes so much sense. Chris Farley, "God!! I'm an idiot!!!"
Hi Wray. I thought your previous video showed the panels tacked . Did l fall asleep and miss the welding ?! I've very recently bought a foot operated shrinker /stretcher (about 50 years too late !) I have some wire edging to do on my "e"type bonnet repairs . Can't get used to you working mild steel . Thanks Wray.
Here is the video you are looking for, I hope it helps! ruclips.net/video/hb3MNUVXnfA/видео.html
I could sure use a dolly block like this. Do you have any dolly making videos? Or where could I get one with these shapes?
Great instructions. Very well done video. On the wire forming. Do you do anything to stop rusting other than paint? Thank you very much for sharing!
Rusting of the wire trapped in a wired edge will take many years to be a problem. Preprint with a brush the area and the wire if you are concerned.
good videos you post, but what's the fulcrum and lever again?...lol just joking, really enjoy watching.
Hello first of all I would like to thank you for taking the time to make these videos and I hope to come to a class sometime, I was wondering if you could tell me what size electrode and wire size do you use when tig welding sheet metal? Thanks again! I absolutely love your work
Hi Donnie, Thanks! I use a 3/32" diameter tungsten, the rod is .030" or .035".
Thanks your so much for this Beginners Series. Superb work and amazing productivity. I really like it.
You have mentioned that you can close up a half inch gap with TIG - could you explain or show how?
And what steel are your lower anvils on the English Wheel made off, when you say they are not hardened?
To fill a gap with a tig you slowly build the sides until you can bridge the two sides. Best not to have any gaps in your weld joints but they happen. Lower anvils if you don't abuse them ( try to wheel plasma cut edges of steel sheet, or wheel over steel weld nuggets, or rough sharp edges) will last a lifetime. I have a soft top wheel we have been using on my reverse curve wheel ( it is just mild steel) it has a slight convex face on it. That top wheel we have been using for four years or more with many classes and there has never been any problem with it.
@@proshaper Thank you so much for taking time to answer and I will stay tuned for more videos as they come and practice some of the things you mention. Stay Safe.
When the video speeds up, I feel like Mark is trying to get home faster.
Mark laughed.
What jaws would you recommend to use for a selfmade shrinker/strecher machine?
Is corrosion an issue with the bare metal in the wire edge? Also, do you use aluminum wire on an aluminum panel wire edge?
Thanks for cranking out the high value content lately.
I will paint the steel wire.
Hi Wray - though you didn't use it in this video, I'm interested in building a scaled down version of your shrinking (gathering) tool. What are those dies made of? And do you sell them and the plans for the tool. Really learning a lot from these videos. Thanks - Peter
Glad you are enjoying the channel. I do plan to sell dies and plans for my gathering tool.
Looks like delrin or nylon.
Can you shrink and stretch the flanges without a shrinker/stretcher? Can you do it with hammers and dolleys?
Yes, stretching is slower, shrinking is faster.
@@proshaper would like to see a video, if possible, of doing something like a quarter panel door jam. 🤞🤞
@@dominosgarage for what type of car?
@@proshaper any car. A quarter panel door jam has so many different bends, angles and shapes. They, in my opinion, can be the hardest to duplicate. I find myself doing them in multiple pieces. Just curious if you have any tricks? Lol
Maybe a video with only simple hand tools? I haven't seen anything like that on the RUclips community. I've seen some, very basic, with a bead roller. Would love to see how to do the complicated transition from quarter panel to door jam. Any kind of car really. Something from the 60s-70s would probably have a more complicated jam. Would really love to see you do a complete car from scratch. From pictures, to rendering, to wire buck, to finished product.
Really love that dolly , were can I find it or did u make it ??? Good to see STEEL videos,
Hi Danny, I'm assuming the one I use for edge tipping and edge definition. That one I made from 4140. I went to the local scrap yard 25 years ago and there was a pile of 4140 end cut offs just sitting in the pile recently thrown out, they were all labeled too on the end. About 10 years ago I sliced up one of the end cutoffs, ground it to the desired shape and then polished it. I have a small electric heat treating oven and I hardened it. It is one of my favorite body dollies.
@@proshaper thanks for the reply..yes I meant the one you used first in video think it was the same as the one you used when you hammer and dollied the weld
Hi Wray,
Fantastic to watch you work.
I have been looking at a panel i want to make and wondering about the shrinked area. Exactly right. Scared to shrink and scared to weld.
Question: How would one go about tipping an edge in with a radius bend (20mm Radius bent at 90 degrees) (not a 90 degree corner) but on a curved surface so its shrinking.
regards
Paul
I will do a video on that! Excellent question!!!
@@proshaper Thank you, look forward to it. I can do a sketch if needs be. One of those things with terms that is difficult to explain. Have a great day.
Paul
Hey Wray how would you do a motorcycle fender edge? Would you just fold it over 180 degree
Yes, you can fold them over 180 degrees or we have found it is much easier to weld on the hemmed edge. Say you make fender out .040" steel ( 19 gauge) , shear a 3/8" strip of 16 gauge shrink or stretch it to fit the contour of the edge of the fender, clamp it on and fusion weld it with a tig welder. It is fast an easy to do and makes a very strong accurate edge for the fender.
@@proshaper thank you so much. Maybe a video will come some day of this technique
@@proshaper also does that technique work with aluminum?
@@LifeWideOpen780 Yes!
Do you have the same welder that you are using in the video in your Amazon store? The link goes to a welder with a different trigger/switch and that is one of the features I am most interested in. And does the welder you are using have HF for aluminum?
Yes, it's the Everlast 210 EXT. Yes, it has a pedal and trigger. Yes, it has HF and Pulse. It is an excellent welder and a bargain. I have two of them.
@@proshaper thanks i will look at that one, your videos great very helpful
Wicked!
Love all your videos. Do you put a 1/8” steel rod in the rolled edge on aluminum or 1/8” aluminum rod? I would think that a steel/aluminum combination would create electrolytic corrosion. Am I wrong?
I just answered the same question. The practice of wiring edges of fenders happened on millions of cars. Do they cause rust? I have seen some wires that slowly rust away over a 75 year period. Rust or corrosion is not a concern for a good weather only pampered collector car. You can make improvements but history has proved to us that it might not be needed.
@@proshaper I think he was referring to using dissimilar metals together vs the same metal type. I think dissimilar metals together accelerate corrosion.
Wray, You take about the gauge of steel you are using but I haven't heard you say anything about the hardness. Are you using just cold roll, or something else.
The steel sheet I use is generic cold rolled 1010 I believe.
I always use this method for the wire edge and it never let me down ,.... 3 times the thickness of the wire + the thickness of the material . Example...... if the wire is 4 mm thick and the material is 1 mm thick, then the flange should be 4 x 3 = 12 mm + 1 mm material total of the flange is 13 mm.
That’s a simple solution. I decided to dust off my geometry skills to check it and since the circumference of a circle = 2(pi)r, a wire that is 1/8” means the flange should be about 0.39” when adding the thickness of sheet, or just over the 3/8” Wray suggests. Your quick method avoids having break out the scientific calculator!
Thanks Peter.
👍😎👍
Don't throw it away, sell it to me...