@@entitree. You don't get it. is height an advantage. obviously. But with every sport there's advantages and disadvantages. Should they lower the net when a shorter basket ball player wants to score ? What about swimmers ? You definitely need to be blessed genetically to win but you can still compete even if you don't have the perfect body. Ai knows she probably will never beat someone like Janja and I doubt she'd want an easier climb to do it either.
@@user-jh4gk6nw6v i take your point about Ai's personal preferences because honestly you're right, if she can prove that she can complete the climb despite having a height disadvantage, then that probably makes her feel super proud of herself and that's great! however, you just listed a bunch of sports that would be difficult to accommodate to different classes. you ignored sports that DO have different classes, such as weight classes in fighting sports, which work *incredibly* well. introducing height classes into climbing isn't a bad idea, because climbs can very easily be changed to accommodate for that. anyway, I'm not really that opinionated on whether their should or shout not be height classes, my main point in my original reply was just simply that saying 'a kid climbed a 9a' doesn't mean anything because, unless you specify which one, we have no grasp of whether that climb is height friendly or not, making your point null
I always feel so bad for Ai because she just doesn't have the reach that other girls have, but so much more impressed when she finds a beta that works for her since she's forced to be more creative.
@@lfc08adam Being lighter doesn‘t help you that much when you can‘t reach the next hold statically. Of course height will always play role, as will weight, but it heavily depends on the route setting.
really hard final to enjoy when at least 3, maybe all 4, of the boulders were pretty height dependent and Janja is already the tallest competitor. poor setting.
Yeah several of them were anywhere between much harder to outright impossible for smaller climbers, Rabatou also struggled with some moments where the taller climbers had an easy toe hook.
@@jahrazzjahrazz8858well I wouldn't call that an easy toe hook, other climbers that were around janja's height didn't make it. And she's definitely not the tallest female climber out there. But yeah it was particularly difficult for shorter climbers.
@@poolkrooni they set routes way in advance even before the whole competition start. They don't know who's gonna be in final when they set them. Sometimes the finals are the same day than the semifinals, they don't go through the whole freaking process in a few hours. They have prepared the problems way in advance and they just put up the holds.
I understand the annoyance for Ai's fans with the sets that competition. But (a little bit sadistically) i look forward to seeing Ai Mori breaking betas of routes that clearly disadvantages her, especially when we can clearly see her thought process during the climb! Rly shows fantastic climbing IQ and gives a weakling like me hope 😂
Did you see the whole final?? W4 there was NO alternative betas there. You either reach the hold with your feet or you dont. Two climbers didnt. This is not even about Ai. Its just about bad routesetting
I’m 5’10”ish but have a 6’4” wingspan. I skip a lot of steps at gyms and sometimes make problems way harder than they should be. 😅 For competition it’s blatantly obvious tho… this problem is just “how wide can you stretch” with no other beta?
@@ahadmerchant7510eight isnt what matters, its lenght of hamstring and hipextension muscles and insertions, which the taller you are the more likely for it to be long.
I'm so glad Ai got her ticket to the Olympics. she more than deserves it after overcoming so many unnecessary hurdles thanks to totally unfair routesetting that excludes her. Ai has to work so much harder to top these boulders than a taller climber like Janya. I'm a big fan of Ai's determination and her refusal to give up, even when the rules and the routesetters are against her. congratulations to Ai Mori! I can't wait to watch her performance at the Olympics.
I'm team Ai too, I want to see her static her way through a paddle dyno to get an Olympic medal. Its inspiring to see someone be successful with a completely different build and climbing style.
Same, the gym in my home town of Fresno is pretty good about making a wide variety of climbs for people of different heights but the one near my folks in Ventura you can tell is mostly set by taller people. It is so much more fun to climb in my home gym (plus I think a lot more inclusive and beginner friendly).
I think most setters set for their own body - so generally speaking, at least 5'9 with a neutral or pos ape index (since it's a male dom profession). It'd be interesting to get real stats though.
Same from the other side. How often there are problems set with sit starts for small people, I don't even have to try. So many traverses that are set for average or small people ... Sometimes frustrating, sometimes fun because of the extra challenge and need for creativity -- as in this video.
Something I liked about the climbing area at my college is the route setter asked me to test his route to see if I could make the move before he'd finalize it. He did this mainly because I was one of the shortest people available at 5ft 7in. Kinda rough to be called out as the shortest available climber but I'm glad that they want to include.
@gatordragon8824 I mean being short makes climbs hard but I've seen climber specific routing. It's rare but I spent 3 months learning how to do a climb set by a 5ft 2in girl at the gym. It was so hard because my knees were basically in towards the wall when I was climbing and some of the holds barely supported my weight even though I only weigh 152lbs she was 115lbs. I managed it and have been able to do it since but routes designed by or for short people are hard for taller people and vise versa. Most professional climbers are around 5ft 10in, the range for men being 5ft 7in to 6ft 1in while for women it is 5ft 2 and 5ft 6in. So I'd say being a short women makes it more than just difficult but if you really enjoy trying something that practically works against you, climbing would be a nice challenge. Especially if you show enough interest and talk to some route setters they may try to make some routes tailored to your height.
@Bahamut69 also I do understand that, I'm happy to be only slightly below average short but it's pretty apparent because almost 90% of all guys in our gym are taller than myself and 30% of the women are either my height or taller.
@@competitionclimbing Ai Mori will always be who I'm rooting for. But Janja deserves credit for being the best climber--even with terrible routesetting. I just would be nice to see more balanced routes--or routes that don't just favor height. The last finals was an embarrassment.
Just watching her jump for 5 minutes was brutal she obviously could have done it she almost got the zone the one time she managed to get it. I'm sure she hates people feeling sorry for her though
Innsbruck this year did a really bad job of setting boulders this year. Not just the few boulders that required length, but even the mans boulders were generally uninteresting and one-dimensional.
@@afraidofwhatdonotbeafraid Yes. Short people in the NFL do not exist. The fact that a 5'1" girl can be a professional climber is a testament to how much fairer climbing is compared to basically every other sport in regards to height. Most bouldering moves are actually easier for short people because they have a lot less mass. The tradeoff is that some moves become much much harder. And sure, this route is suited more towards 5'5" people (average women height). Some routes are better for short people, but if you design every route around the shortest competitor that punishs people for not being short
What's really fun is Janja's only 5'6" but she looks so big and strong next to Ai 😅 Also their techniques are so different but play perfectly into their respective physiques, I like that so much
that is the perfect demonstration of the mechanical power of your finger. your muscles help but the ability to partially lock your finger’s joints under stress can be taken advantage of to help aid in such feats. congratulations to Ai for thinking outside the box
As someone from asia (Indonesia), i can relate.. Here I'm taller than the average guy.. yet compared to foreigner, I'm like a little kid.. 175cm, that's around 5'4" if i remembered correctly..
Because she was the tallest (I think? Or second tallest?) In the final! She's not tall by any means but in the pool of pro climbers she is considered pretty tall
I've read some comments about the routes being set for climbers of average height (one said around 1,65m for women). And I think this definitely plays into it and is a totally valid explanation. But let's work with it instead of saying the competitors should just be able to deal with it. The average height in the USA is not even close to the one in Japan (just as an example). Does this mean that it is totally fine for route setters to favor their own countries' competitors? Meaning, if the final is in the US the routes require you to be around 1,65 m for the "easiest" beta. And if the finals are in Japan the routes are made for women around the height of 1,58 m. Is this what "fairness in sports" looks like? For every nation to stick to their own norms? Sadly I myself have no solution for those problems but I would definitely expect better handling of those things by route setters who create these boulders for big events like finales, indicating that they should have lots of expertise (and hopefully creativity).
ai mori was extremely let down and ROBBED by the poor setting that was very heavily disadvantaging short climbers. absolute disgrace, it should be agains the rules!
Looking at the comments it shows how ridiculously discriminated, mocked and laughed at short people are. The boulders were obviously built in the favor of Garnbret who just happens to be the tallest of them?
They were simpl set by taller, male route setters. They didnt mean to specifically favor anybody. But there is a gender problem in routesetting for comps
It's probably most disadvantage in bouldering. But Ai does seem to have some advantage in lead, maybe due to her body being lighter and the lead difficulty is lower than bouldering.
Small climbers usually have an advantage in holding small holds or keeping body tension, while I agree that it's not fun to have problems on which small climbers are disadvantaged, it is also not fair to remove the moves which give an advantage to the taller people and keep the ones which give an advantage to the smaller ones, in the end it's hard to say what's fair anyway, I would prefer to see boulders which are varied and play to each one's advantage
@@serbangroza you can say small climber good on small hold, coz usually they have small finger. But how can you said small climber has advantage in keeping body tension, especially when the hold on hand and the hold on food is far away from it
my group never thought too much about height advantages until i started climbing with them, standing at a stellar 5 ft tall 😂 now it’s like a fun game for them to brainstorm methods on overcoming difficult routes for shorter limbs
At least two, arguably three of the final boulders (and even the semi-final boulder shown in this short) were that much harder for someone who isn't even that much shorter than the others (Ai is, if I'm not mistaken, around 10 cm shorter than Janja). I'm no expert on the other end of the range but I haven't read a single comment where someone tall complained that a certain boulder in that final was harder for the tallest in the group. The routesetters' job is to make the competition as fair as possible to the competitors present and they failed big time.
@@PS-nm8wk Where one draws the line, why stop at 1,54, why not at 1,40? When talking about that, how about tall competitors, they could complain about awkwardness of the bolder sequences and now we have a new problem, don’t we? Is 1,9 a no go, 1,8? Yeh I didn’t here it either, but it’s still worth a thought! On the other hand should NBA lower the rims, which are unfairly high for the shorter players?
@@jurijvengust9074 climbing, as opposed to basketball, has people called routesetters. Their job is to make the comp as fair as possible. They knew who was going to be in the finals, it's only 6 competitors, and they weren't able to set a level playing field for all.
Sure, it is a bit more difficult because she is so short. But that is the name of the game. There is a boulder set and you get it or not. It doesn't matter if you were too inflexible, weak, short, tall, heavy, undynamic....
but you can't practice and get better height. You can practice all the other things. Climbing is different from for example basketball, because climbing has *route setters*. They could've made less height-dependent problems, but they didn't.
![Cordae - Saturday Mornings (feat. Lil Wayne) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z2GYJua09F0/mqdefault.jpg)
This is definitely at least grade higher boulder for Ai.. more impressive than Janja!
😂
💯💯💯
More impressive than jar jar
KAJ SI REKU JANJI?!
ai is too short for everything lmao
An example of why there needs to be height classes in competitive climbing.
a kid climbed a 9a. lmao. no there doesn't
@@user-jh4gk6nw6v that literally means nothing when obviously it depends on what the climb is, no?
@@entitree. You don't get it. is height an advantage. obviously. But with every sport there's advantages and disadvantages. Should they lower the net when a shorter basket ball player wants to score ? What about swimmers ? You definitely need to be blessed genetically to win but you can still compete even if you don't have the perfect body. Ai knows she probably will never beat someone like Janja and I doubt she'd want an easier climb to do it either.
@@user-jh4gk6nw6vThere are weight classes in many fighting based sports, why couldn't there be height classes in climbing?
@@user-jh4gk6nw6v i take your point about Ai's personal preferences because honestly you're right, if she can prove that she can complete the climb despite having a height disadvantage, then that probably makes her feel super proud of herself and that's great!
however, you just listed a bunch of sports that would be difficult to accommodate to different classes. you ignored sports that DO have different classes, such as weight classes in fighting sports, which work *incredibly* well. introducing height classes into climbing isn't a bad idea, because climbs can very easily be changed to accommodate for that.
anyway, I'm not really that opinionated on whether their should or shout not be height classes, my main point in my original reply was just simply that saying 'a kid climbed a 9a' doesn't mean anything because, unless you specify which one, we have no grasp of whether that climb is height friendly or not, making your point null
I always feel so bad for Ai because she just doesn't have the reach that other girls have, but so much more impressed when she finds a beta that works for her since she's forced to be more creative.
Because she is short she is also alot lighter. I dunno how much of an advantage that is at the highest level
How did AI go from giving chat responses to full on video 💀
@@theredraider3860what..?
@@lfc08adam Being lighter doesn‘t help you that much when you can‘t reach the next hold statically.
Of course height will always play role, as will weight, but it heavily depends on the route setting.
yeah skills more important
really hard final to enjoy when at least 3, maybe all 4, of the boulders were pretty height dependent and Janja is already the tallest competitor. poor setting.
Yeah several of them were anywhere between much harder to outright impossible for smaller climbers, Rabatou also struggled with some moments where the taller climbers had an easy toe hook.
@@jahrazzjahrazz8858well I wouldn't call that an easy toe hook, other climbers that were around janja's height didn't make it. And she's definitely not the tallest female climber out there. But yeah it was particularly difficult for shorter climbers.
@@tyrionas She was the tallest in that final and route setters know the finalists.
@@poolkrooni they set routes way in advance even before the whole competition start. They don't know who's gonna be in final when they set them. Sometimes the finals are the same day than the semifinals, they don't go through the whole freaking process in a few hours. They have prepared the problems way in advance and they just put up the holds.
@@tyrionasthey can make (and have made in the past) micro-adjustments when putting up the finals set
Boulder was too spread out even for some of the other climbers. They did her dirty in this final, man.
Every sport advantages different physiques at different times. Just part of it.
If the boulders were closer, wouldn't that also make it easier for janja?
@@veryboliao lol no one said it wouldn't. the whole argument is that right now it disadvantages most people except janja
@@veryboliao yeah sure, but it would be doable for the rest, and that's enough to even out the field, imo
@@trevorneuzerling9281 Exacty...This is what we keep telling poeple about Trans people....
I never wanna hear anything about screw holes not being used after this.
Was thinking the same haha
I used to use them all the time lmao
Hey, if you can use them…
"If there's a hole, there's a goal"
@@SmileUponBallsyou did not😨
Ai s micromovements will surely catch on. She’s 18 yet she will already revolutionise bouldering competitions😮
She’s a genius
Janja has the reach but Ai has the main character energy
I understand the annoyance for Ai's fans with the sets that competition. But (a little bit sadistically) i look forward to seeing Ai Mori breaking betas of routes that clearly disadvantages her, especially when we can clearly see her thought process during the climb! Rly shows fantastic climbing IQ and gives a weakling like me hope 😂
"But..." always these ridiculous "buts".
Did you see the whole final?? W4 there was NO alternative betas there. You either reach the hold with your feet or you dont. Two climbers didnt. This is not even about Ai. Its just about bad routesetting
She can't break the beta when it takes three minutes just to jump to the start hold.
I agree, but that requires some more complex boulders. If you force a climb too much there is no room for creativity anymore.
@@zsoltbartus169what are you on about 💀
Mountain goats when they see a 90.1 degree cliff:
It would be 90.1 degree 89.9 would be concave
@@Princess_Jessie3414 ah true oopsy
@@olafadams1650 this is quite possibly the nicest internet interaction I've ever had and that's sad. Good day sire
@@Princess_Jessie3414 😄
when u have no enemies
And tall guys at the boulder gym will literally tell you that height doesn’t make that big of a difference 🤪
Like one of my friends who’s over 6 ft and says height doesn’t make a difference for running or swimming.
I’m 5’10”ish but have a 6’4” wingspan. I skip a lot of steps at gyms and sometimes make problems way harder than they should be. 😅
For competition it’s blatantly obvious tho… this problem is just “how wide can you stretch” with no other beta?
@@VeroniczFor running it honestly doesnt unless you're below 5'6. Almost every elite runner is average height.
@@ahadmerchant7510eight isnt what matters, its lenght of hamstring and hipextension muscles and insertions, which the taller you are the more likely for it to be long.
@@Veroniczrunning is more proportions than height.
I'm so glad Ai got her ticket to the Olympics. she more than deserves it after overcoming so many unnecessary hurdles thanks to totally unfair routesetting that excludes her. Ai has to work so much harder to top these boulders than a taller climber like Janya. I'm a big fan of Ai's determination and her refusal to give up, even when the rules and the routesetters are against her. congratulations to Ai Mori! I can't wait to watch her performance at the Olympics.
I'm team Ai too, I want to see her static her way through a paddle dyno to get an Olympic medal. Its inspiring to see someone be successful with a completely different build and climbing style.
Revenge of the short climber! 🏆
i have to rely on this technique way too often in my gym. it is annoying when they only set for tall people
Same, the gym in my home town of Fresno is pretty good about making a wide variety of climbs for people of different heights but the one near my folks in Ventura you can tell is mostly set by taller people. It is so much more fun to climb in my home gym (plus I think a lot more inclusive and beginner friendly).
I think most setters set for their own body - so generally speaking, at least 5'9 with a neutral or pos ape index (since it's a male dom profession). It'd be interesting to get real stats though.
Same from the other side. How often there are problems set with sit starts for small people, I don't even have to try. So many traverses that are set for average or small people ...
Sometimes frustrating, sometimes fun because of the extra challenge and need for creativity -- as in this video.
she’s holding the fucking atoms what
Unfair situation and she still did it. Damn
Ai mori is awesome
Same as in our gym - most routes are set for ppl 175cm+ - if you are shorter than this have fun with dynos...
Janja is like 163 cm
@@Triblss Ai Mori isnt XD
@@V0rwArd ok buddy
Same though, I'm just beginning and am only 154cm and it's a pain-
Her still pulling it off despite the reach disadvantage makes it even more impressive for me
And she has the audacity to not even struggle..
This woman is something else
Height classes! We need height classes. In boxing you have weight classes, why not height classes for bouldering
I feel like they should have height classes for running as well.
Bc they might be fast but a 5’ runner has a distinct disadvantage to a 6’ runner
@@crashvds777 sport fencing also favour to someone who has long arm / apx index
I think wingspan classes would make more sense or ape index
@@crashvds777most runners are average height tho
@@crashvds777nahh no need for that in running
That tenacity she displayed is truly impressive!
Damn! Great job!! You're doing us shorties proud!
Ai literally hang on air. It's amazing.. And her nonchalant face ❤😂
That was resourcefulness in its best form for Ms Mori.
much respect for this insane method by Ai, my hat's off 🤯
Ai is so small! I can’t believe she used a dang screw to make this work!
that hold Ai did was sick
the setter was anti-ai
Fucking incredible. Good work
Said "goddamn" out loud when that woman reached out and saw them lats. I don't know how I ended up in this side of RUclips short but I'm glad I did.
She has insane shoulder muscle
props to AI Mori !
she overcame her short height by will, power and ingenuity !
Something I liked about the climbing area at my college is the route setter asked me to test his route to see if I could make the move before he'd finalize it. He did this mainly because I was one of the shortest people available at 5ft 7in. Kinda rough to be called out as the shortest available climber but I'm glad that they want to include.
There are at least 1 billion people shorter than you on Earth. being 2 inches shorter than average height isn't a problem
@gatordragon8824 I mean being short makes climbs hard but I've seen climber specific routing. It's rare but I spent 3 months learning how to do a climb set by a 5ft 2in girl at the gym. It was so hard because my knees were basically in towards the wall when I was climbing and some of the holds barely supported my weight even though I only weigh 152lbs she was 115lbs. I managed it and have been able to do it since but routes designed by or for short people are hard for taller people and vise versa. Most professional climbers are around 5ft 10in, the range for men being 5ft 7in to 6ft 1in while for women it is 5ft 2 and 5ft 6in. So I'd say being a short women makes it more than just difficult but if you really enjoy trying something that practically works against you, climbing would be a nice challenge. Especially if you show enough interest and talk to some route setters they may try to make some routes tailored to your height.
@Bahamut69 also I do understand that, I'm happy to be only slightly below average short but it's pretty apparent because almost 90% of all guys in our gym are taller than myself and 30% of the women are either my height or taller.
She is amazing short people have disadvantage and yet she manages so well
W1 would've been a better example of the height discrepancy
true but i also wanted to show her insane beta break, w1 was just kinda sad
@@competitionclimbing Ai Mori will always be who I'm rooting for. But Janja deserves credit for being the best climber--even with terrible routesetting. I just would be nice to see more balanced routes--or routes that don't just favor height. The last finals was an embarrassment.
Which one
Yes, the whole final was infuriating. Worst routesetting Ive ever seen!
Just watching her jump for 5 minutes was brutal she obviously could have done it she almost got the zone the one time she managed to get it. I'm sure she hates people feeling sorry for her though
Ai is amazing to watch indeed
After queen and miho nonaka she is my favourite to watch
YES, good on her. I'm also a female climber, 5'1" and not getting any taller lol
Moriiiiiiiiii. Such a fan favourite.
Whoa mori san is awesome ❤❤❤
The finger strength is insane 😮
Rock climbing is such an underrated sport. It is so much fun.
The girl is gripping atoms at that point
Ai is clearly more impressive and skilled in this situation since she overcame a much harder obstacle
How does this even happen? Dont the routesetters know the heights of all the climbers?!
What if climing had height classes like wrestling has weight classes?
I love when people go another route then expected! It’s so exciting watching these kinds of videos!! I want to try bouldering some day!!
Ai Mori!!! My GOAT
Never underestimate a Japanese person. They are built different.
Just googled it and Janja’s 5’5. She looked 6’ 😂
And Ai mori is 5.05 😳
Thats next level skill and ability combined right there.
Love watching Ai climbing so much!
Mans literally holding on to air
That move was god mode.
janja literally does competitions for fun she’s so amazing and impressive! they all are!
Improvise, adapt, overcome. Love it
Innsbruck this year did a really bad job of setting boulders this year. Not just the few boulders that required length, but even the mans boulders were generally uninteresting and one-dimensional.
Competition should not come down to height advantage
Even in a sport like track and field? Come on, its no secret that taller competitors have the advantage in many if not most sports
@@frameturtlebut we're not talking about damn track and field are we??
@@frameturtle But the track and field isn't adjusted to accommodate a height, this set up is.
@@dylanforrealin9539but does being short prevent you from playing football? No, this one clearly is preventing short people to compete
@@afraidofwhatdonotbeafraid Yes. Short people in the NFL do not exist. The fact that a 5'1" girl can be a professional climber is a testament to how much fairer climbing is compared to basically every other sport in regards to height. Most bouldering moves are actually easier for short people because they have a lot less mass. The tradeoff is that some moves become much much harder. And sure, this route is suited more towards 5'5" people (average women height). Some routes are better for short people, but if you design every route around the shortest competitor that punishs people for not being short
I love watching Ai climb boulders, she has such different beta and it's often so clever
Wonderful job, all my respect
Lowkey annoyed they kept zooming in on her fingers on that bolt hold- the real magic was that seemless foot switch which is infinitely harder
Lol what? Foot switches are easy
See the muscles on that first lady's back. Incredible!
It doesn't matter how long it takes as long as you get there.
Can't believe I picked up a life lesson from a rock climbing YT short 😂
What's really fun is Janja's only 5'6" but she looks so big and strong next to Ai 😅
Also their techniques are so different but play perfectly into their respective physiques, I like that so much
that is the perfect demonstration of the mechanical power of your finger.
your muscles help but the ability to partially lock your finger’s joints under stress can be taken advantage of to help aid in such feats. congratulations to Ai for thinking outside the box
Absolutely stunning, incredible feat. of skill and dedication. Bravo
Now that's the real skill and determination right there
Sadly, that wasn't even the worst one 😢
As someone from asia (Indonesia), i can relate..
Here I'm taller than the average guy.. yet compared to foreigner, I'm like a little kid..
175cm, that's around 5'4" if i remembered correctly..
That's almost 5'9"
My hands were sweating
This woman must be able to crack walnuts with her fingers 💀
Japan impress me a lot
Yeah I'm sure it does. Nobody cares about Slovenia ever lol. Go figure.
I have a question. Why is Janja considered tall if she's only 1.64 m?
Because she was the tallest (I think? Or second tallest?) In the final! She's not tall by any means but in the pool of pro climbers she is considered pretty tall
@@sophiep7184 thanks!
She also has a positive wing span if i remember right and thats the most advantageous bit
Short king 👑
She is a women
What a fucking legend
Shouldn’t competitions like this and the walls they do be separated by height and length of legs/arms etc to make it fair competition?
Short climbers are stronger than tall climbers. Fight me.
Depends are you shorter or taller than me?
Stronger , nah, some are more skill ... not all
It really just depends on your skill
Bruh that screw crimping was crazy
These women are amazing
I've read some comments about the routes being set for climbers of average height (one said around 1,65m for women). And I think this definitely plays into it and is a totally valid explanation. But let's work with it instead of saying the competitors should just be able to deal with it.
The average height in the USA is not even close to the one in Japan (just as an example). Does this mean that it is totally fine for route setters to favor their own countries' competitors? Meaning, if the final is in the US the routes require you to be around 1,65 m for the "easiest" beta. And if the finals are in Japan the routes are made for women around the height of 1,58 m. Is this what "fairness in sports" looks like? For every nation to stick to their own norms?
Sadly I myself have no solution for those problems but I would definitely expect better handling of those things by route setters who create these boulders for big events like finales, indicating that they should have lots of expertise (and hopefully creativity).
Basically rigged game to make some competitors win. They do this so many times
Janja isn't from the US, mind you. She's Slovenian. And she's 1.64cm
@@WildVee I know. I didn't mean to imply any of those. Sorry for my bad choice of words, it really seems like I said she's a 165 cm American.
No. The boulder was built for tallers.
She looks too cute clinging like that 🤭🤩
ai mori was extremely let down and ROBBED by the poor setting that was very heavily disadvantaging short climbers. absolute disgrace, it should be agains the rules!
At 1m64, I wouldn’t exactly call Janja a « tall » climber 😂
Sure, cuz there are dozens of female climbers are there with 180cm.
@@zsoltbartus169 that’s the point yes, pro climbers tend to be on the small to average range, rarely are they tall.
Except I swear the whole german female team are big
@@Simon-qv9oiFor a climber she’s tall, since most climbers aren’t that tall.
SERIOSLY HOW DID MY COMPUTER KNOW I WAS AT ROCK CLIMBING CAMP LAST WEEK, I AM CRYING! 🤣🤣🤣
ai mori supremacy
Gen cheat vs work hard🔥🔥
Isn't there height categories for rock climbing similar to weight category for fighting?
wow AI is getting crazy!!
Loveliest of forests, she did better than I ever could.
Looking at the comments it shows how ridiculously discriminated, mocked and laughed at short people are. The boulders were obviously built in the favor of Garnbret who just happens to be the tallest of them?
They were simpl set by taller, male route setters. They didnt mean to specifically favor anybody. But there is a gender problem in routesetting for comps
Janja is 1.64m so taller but not huge.
Oh fucklng please. Go touch some grass. Janja did great and you're simply being racist and favoring here. She's not that tall lol.
Being short has its own advantages. There is a reason why you have elite athletes competing side-by-side who are 164cm and 185cm
It must be so challenging for routesetters to make a balanced set so that it's fair game!
It's probably most disadvantage in bouldering. But Ai does seem to have some advantage in lead, maybe due to her body being lighter and the lead difficulty is lower than bouldering.
Small climbers usually have an advantage in holding small holds or keeping body tension, while I agree that it's not fun to have problems on which small climbers are disadvantaged, it is also not fair to remove the moves which give an advantage to the taller people and keep the ones which give an advantage to the smaller ones, in the end it's hard to say what's fair anyway, I would prefer to see boulders which are varied and play to each one's advantage
@@serbangroza you can say small climber good on small hold, coz usually they have small finger. But how can you said small climber has advantage in keeping body tension, especially when the hold on hand and the hold on food is far away from it
Ai was always my favorite!!!!!
my group never thought too much about height advantages until i started climbing with them, standing at a stellar 5 ft tall 😂 now it’s like a fun game for them to brainstorm methods on overcoming difficult routes for shorter limbs
just remember Janja Garnbret 164 cm tall)) She is not very tall either )))
She’s on the taller end for female comp climbers. And just and inch or two can make a big difference.
@@Deathranger999 And she did great. People are just being rude for no reason.
@@WildVee Oh yeah of course. What I said is not meant to detract from her performance. She’s a phenomenal climber and deserves all her success.
What are you on about? Garnebret is 1,64 m. Some segments are easier for some athletes some for others. That’s what sport is about.
At least two, arguably three of the final boulders (and even the semi-final boulder shown in this short) were that much harder for someone who isn't even that much shorter than the others (Ai is, if I'm not mistaken, around 10 cm shorter than Janja). I'm no expert on the other end of the range but I haven't read a single comment where someone tall complained that a certain boulder in that final was harder for the tallest in the group. The routesetters' job is to make the competition as fair as possible to the competitors present and they failed big time.
@@PS-nm8wk Where one draws the line, why stop at 1,54, why not at 1,40? When talking about that, how about tall competitors, they could complain about awkwardness of the bolder sequences and now we have a new problem, don’t we? Is 1,9 a no go, 1,8? Yeh I didn’t here it either, but it’s still worth a thought! On the other hand should NBA lower the rims, which are unfairly high for the shorter players?
@@jurijvengust9074 climbing, as opposed to basketball, has people called routesetters. Their job is to make the comp as fair as possible. They knew who was going to be in the finals, it's only 6 competitors, and they weren't able to set a level playing field for all.
And yes, why not set a comp for 1.40 and see what the results look like then. Might be interesting.
We need to make bouldering a more mainstream sport
The wing span difference is literally crazy 😮
Sure, it is a bit more difficult because she is so short. But that is the name of the game. There is a boulder set and you get it or not. It doesn't matter if you were too inflexible, weak, short, tall, heavy, undynamic....
but you can't practice and get better height. You can practice all the other things.
Climbing is different from for example basketball, because climbing has *route setters*.
They could've made less height-dependent problems, but they didn't.
I'm not surprised it could do it. I am surprised we're now allowing AI in sports 🤖