Finally a video where the person explaining the project explains short and sweet without talking just to talk nothing more irritating then someones 10 min video that can be done in 2 min example what does the f.. king weather in your state have to do with changing a part so thank you thumbs up
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore people that make instructional videos that discuss stuff like there wife kids weather and different battery's when it's about changing a tire should be banned from posting anything 🤠✌️
Worked on my truck all morning. Trying to stretch the cables found your video never would have been able to figure it out in a million years thank you very much
My 2004 Silverado 3500 has no parking brake. Pedal goes to the floor. I recently did a complete brake job with new rotors and pads F & R. I adjusted the park brake shoes just outside dragging. I thought my park brake problem was stretched cables but maybe there is adjustment in the pedal mechanism. I'm going to fiddle around with it and see if it can ratchet enough to tighten the cables. Supper video by the way. Purely technical and no annoying background music or other wannabe entertainer drivel.
I did not have to pry up on the mechanism as you did. I just knelt outside the drivers door. Make sure that the pedal is all the way up. I then grabbed the brake cable under the truck with my left hand and with my right index finger reaching over the pedal arm, I pressed on the spring that you indicated and pulled on the cable with my left hand. The important part is to keep full tension on the cable so that the ratchet doesn't recoil. If you keep the tension on it while working all of the slack back to where the two cables connect, there will be enough to connect the two with no problem. At least for me it worked this way. It took a couple of tries to do it without the mechanism reeling it back in on me but I did eventually get it. As a side note, I couldn't find the correct position for the screwdriver to hold the ratchet back so I just did this without it. I appreciate your video. It made the job so much easier.
Thanks for providing this information and video! I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD that I replaced the driver's side rear brake cable on, as it broke a while back. I ordered and installed the new cable, but could not get enough slack in the cable(s) to connect the rear cables to the coupler. I removed both rear wheels and ran the self adjusters for the parking brakes all the way in to remove any tension from the adjuster/shoe expansion. Still not able to connect the cables. I found this video while researching more options for the parking brake system, and was able to follow the recommended procedure for adjusting the brake pedal ratchet, and BOOM, it was exactly what was holding me up! I used a bungee cord to keep tension on the front brake cable coming from the pedal assembly, and it provided enough tension for me to get your recommended procedure to work, It's together now, and I'm good to go! Thanks again!
You're a lifesaver, buddy. That locking spring was the key. Since I had to do it by myself, I wedged a screwdriver to hold it down, then pulled the cable as far as I could and clamped it off against the mounting bracket with vise grips. I never could get anything going with that hole in the mechanism, but I had enough slack to get the cables attached. Then I just released the vise grips and released the spring. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks a lot for posting that video! it helped a lot. One thing you may want to add or for anyone it’s reading the comments is that you have to pry up on it and pull the spring multiple times and work its way up to the full reset. Thanks again, I appreciate you.
You need to change the title of the video and add cable replacement to it. If you search for parking brake cable replacement videos, no one has figured out this procedure. It would expose you to a larger audience. Thank you.
Thank you for the video. You got a clear picture. Did the rear brakes on my 2004 Tahoe. Pads were to bare metal because all the calipers on a 17 year old SUV had frozen up. Total rebuild. Including adjusters. Parking brakes worked but had to push 3/4 down. Not good, but figured they had to be adjusted somewhere else when done. Was very meticulous when reassembling the adjuster, etc. Your video gave me some where else to look. Thank you again.
This was a great help; however, I was still not able to get mine connected. It was still just a bit too short to get the end of the long rear cable into the connector with the intermediate cable. I ended up having to unbolt the cable holder bolted to the rear axle on the driver side to allow enough slack to get the end of the cable into the connector. Once connected, I was able to have my son release more cable as you showed here and give me just enough slack to get the bolt back into the axle holder. I tested it and it all works great. Thanks
Just went through replacing the cable and the ends are too far apart. I thought there was an adjustment at the pedal but there was none, however, I did notice that the part you are speaking about is in the lower position. I will try what you suggest, I am sure it will work. Thanks so much.
It's a nightmare. I tried to pry that cable channel but nothing to use as a fulcrum except the plastic hood release lever. So I bagged it. Atleast it looks like it works now.
Thanks a bunch. I had no helper so used a couple of bungie cords to keep the pressure pulling on the cable while holding the spring down and forcing the drum to turn with a long screwdriver.
Hi all - I have an 'augmentation' for this video! Zero tools required. No force. Push the pedal to the floor (by hand - fine, that's a tool!) The spring arm pointed out is now nearly at the floor. You'll see a notch, that you just push the spring into. Gently release the pedal. Go underneath and just pull the cable out until you can link the parts (almost no effort needed). Now just flick the spring out from the notch (carefully so it doesn't bite you!!!), and push the pedal a few times to reset things. Done! :)
I think it a not serviceable item. But if you put it out you might be able to figure out whats wrong with it. Possible a broken spring that holds the ratch paw. That might be repairable. Thanks for watching.
Well Hot Diggity Dogg! Thank you for posting! I knew there's gotta be a way to release the tension on the cable... I knew how to do it on the Fords but I couldn't figure out why there was no nail hole to be found on the GMC
I work on these fairly regularly and i use an air fitting wedged behind the parking brake pedal to hold the spring release mechanism. Then I go under the vehicle and use a rag and vise grips to secure the cable where it exits the first area (sort of under the driver’s seat). It does not to be tight because when it is released there isn’t much tension. Then I use the Lisle park cable release tool to disconnect the cable at the “Y” and from there O can diagnose and replace the rear cables as needed.
Most of the time the trucks I work on the cable is broken and you have to reset the lever. That is a good idea when you can do it that way. Thanks for watching.
HI....Do you think this is the technique for adjustment also ( i have NO broken cable or replacement)....My pedal is down to the floor before parking break barely holds???
If you have rear disc brakes in the back I bet that the small drum brake shoe's that are the parking brake have come unglued and are spinning around in the rotor/drum.
Me again my 2004 Silverado. the brake cable rusted and broke next to the frame below the drivers side seat area, will that whole cable have to be replaced from the parking brake in the cab to where it attaches to the two rear brake cables? Thanks again
Most trucks have a intermediate or a center cable. Your are going to have to look under it to see what you have. You are also going to need the wheelbase to order the cable.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore your right! I went out to look and it doesn't. Mine never broke it just stretched I'm guessing. Its still connected but extremely loose now. I'm not sure what's really going on.
My cable is ok, my brake will set, my issue it when I release the Ebrake it comes back up but not far enough to stay tight and the brake light is on. I Have to pull it up with my foot. Is there something else that may help me?
Does the parking brake cable hold? One of the levers in the back if it has disc brakes could be not returning all the way. The shoes could be out of adjustment or you cables could be stretched.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I just got the truck last week. In the middle of remodeling etc, I haven't had a lot of time. The cable is at least working on one side but I know it needs to be adjusted. I live on a hill I wasn't sure if there was another place a spring pulled the pedal back up. I'll take it in and have it adjusted and checked >)
On these trucks, does this ratchet pedal control how much max tension is applied to the cable? In other words, when these systems are fully operational and the parking brake shoes are adjusted properly, is that pedal supposed to go to the floor?
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Thanks for the reply, I was beginning to think they were made this way but I have an update. 2002 Silverado. I would get the shoes adjusted nice and tight and the pedal would be rock hard initially and then fade off and the pedal would go to the floor BUT it would "hold" the truck (Not very well in gear). Came to find that everytime I would adjust them tight then lose the pedal, the actual parking shoe ears were COLLAPSING at the tabs where they mount into the cylinder. Apparently the aftermarket brand Perfect Stop shoes will not hold up to a HEAVY foot when setting the park brake, they collapse if you press the pedal set too hard. Could be fixed by welding a support tab to the shoe, assuming that the GM shoes would not do this. So the answer is no, the pedal should not go to the floor when everything is proper
I have a 2001 Suburban and the brake light doesn't come on I constantly hear a chime is this the reason? Also the emergency brake pedal is all the way down to the floor I had no idea I've been driving with it for a week like this it still has resistance but it doesn't stop the vehicle, what's going on with this? Is the cable broke perhaps? Or does it just need adjusting?
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore appreciate the response I lifted the emergency pedal now and it's still chiming I guess it's out of whack perhaps? I can recall now that AAA guy probably put the emergency brake down when he told it any never ticket out of that position.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore thanks again I thought so too but there's actually nothing. Just the typical service the four-wheel drive which always comes on. But it never constantly kept that going. This is very strange to me.
@@darealblair3262 I don't know either. But if it is the parking brake you should be able to go under dash and unplug the parking brake switch and see if the warning noise stops.
I would double check that you have the right cable and then make sure somebody else pulls on the front cable as you release it again to see if that makes it long enough.
My pedal goes all the way to the floor, weak hold, should I try this adjustment? Or should I adjust at the rear wheels? Or both? I know my parking brake switch is bad, I couldn't do a TPMS reset/relearn because of this, the dash light wouldn't light up with the pedal to the floor, the cables all look good, I bypassed the switch for the TPMS relearn and tapped into the parking brake wire by the switch, and grounded it only to do the relearn. (I hope that info helps someone else) I watched this because to swap that switch I may have to pull that pedal assembly and redo it. It looks like a pain in the ass.
If your parking brake cables are all working, then I would say try to adjust them, but I bet your parking brake shoes are bad. They come unglued and then they don't hold. Thanks for watching
Finally a video where the person explaining the project explains short and sweet without talking just to talk nothing more irritating then someones 10 min video that can be done in 2 min example what does the f.. king weather in your state have to do with changing a part so thank you thumbs up
Thanks I try to get to the point with no BS.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore people that make instructional videos that discuss stuff like there wife kids weather and different battery's when it's about changing a tire should be banned from posting anything 🤠✌️
Worked on my truck all morning. Trying to stretch the cables found your video never would have been able to figure it out in a million years thank you very much
My 2004 Silverado 3500 has no parking brake. Pedal goes to the floor. I recently did a complete brake job with new rotors and pads F & R. I adjusted the park brake shoes just outside dragging. I thought my park brake problem was stretched cables but maybe there is adjustment in the pedal mechanism. I'm going to fiddle around with it and see if it can ratchet enough to tighten the cables. Supper video by the way. Purely technical and no annoying background music or other wannabe entertainer drivel.
did you figure it out? i have the same problem with my 09.
@that_sl0ws550 my rear brakes are dragging too.. 2013 express 3500... ☠️
I did not have to pry up on the mechanism as you did. I just knelt outside the drivers door. Make sure that the pedal is all the way up. I then grabbed the brake cable under the truck with my left hand and with my right index finger reaching over the pedal arm, I pressed on the spring that you indicated and pulled on the cable with my left hand. The important part is to keep full tension on the cable so that the ratchet doesn't recoil. If you keep the tension on it while working all of the slack back to where the two cables connect, there will be enough to connect the two with no problem. At least for me it worked this way. It took a couple of tries to do it without the mechanism reeling it back in on me but I did eventually get it. As a side note, I couldn't find the correct position for the screwdriver to hold the ratchet back so I just did this without it. I appreciate your video. It made the job so much easier.
Yours must not have a very tight spring. This one was really tight with a lot of tension. Had to use a screwdriver to pry it back. Thanks for watching
Thanks for providing this information and video! I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD that I replaced the driver's side rear brake cable on, as it broke a while back. I ordered and installed the new cable, but could not get enough slack in the cable(s) to connect the rear cables to the coupler. I removed both rear wheels and ran the self adjusters for the parking brakes all the way in to remove any tension from the adjuster/shoe expansion. Still not able to connect the cables. I found this video while researching more options for the parking brake system, and was able to follow the recommended procedure for adjusting the brake pedal ratchet, and BOOM, it was exactly what was holding me up! I used a bungee cord to keep tension on the front brake cable coming from the pedal assembly, and it provided enough tension for me to get your recommended procedure to work, It's together now, and I'm good to go! Thanks again!
That's is why I made this video. There was no info on doing this. Thanks for watching
The best video for GMC truck owners. Perfectly clear in video and audio. Thank you.
You're a lifesaver, buddy. That locking spring was the key. Since I had to do it by myself, I wedged a screwdriver to hold it down, then pulled the cable as far as I could and clamped it off against the mounting bracket with vise grips. I never could get anything going with that hole in the mechanism, but I had enough slack to get the cables attached. Then I just released the vise grips and released the spring. Thanks a bunch.
Glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching
THIS IS HUGE!! Its the same assembly on the Hummer H2. NOTHING on the internet about adjusting this! Nice work!
Did it fix your issue?
I played with it for an hour or so. No didn't work for me. I bought a new brake pedal assembly. They it was perfect.
I had a hard time connecting the cables . Your video came in very handy.
Thank you , sir!
I watched 13 seconds and figured it out I appreciate it 💯💪🏿
Thank you for the extra trick I needed to get my new park brakes hooked up!!! I was getting frustrated to say the least!! THANK YOU!!!!!!
Thanks a lot for posting that video! it helped a lot. One thing you may want to add or for anyone it’s reading the comments is that you have to pry up on it and pull the spring multiple times and work its way up to the full reset. Thanks again, I appreciate you.
You need to change the title of the video and add cable replacement to it. If you search for parking brake cable replacement videos, no one has figured out this procedure. It would expose you to a larger audience. Thank you.
I will try to add that to the 'tags' in the video but this video has been up for sometime it probably won't help. Thanks for watching
Thank you for the video. You got a clear picture. Did the rear brakes on my 2004 Tahoe. Pads were
to bare metal because all the calipers on a 17 year old SUV had frozen up. Total rebuild. Including
adjusters. Parking brakes worked but had to push 3/4 down. Not good, but figured they had to be
adjusted somewhere else when done. Was very meticulous when reassembling the adjuster, etc.
Your video gave me some where else to look. Thank you again.
This was a great help; however, I was still not able to get mine connected. It was still just a bit too short to get the end of the long rear cable into the connector with the intermediate cable. I ended up having to unbolt the cable holder bolted to the rear axle on the driver side to allow enough slack to get the end of the cable into the connector. Once connected, I was able to have my son release more cable as you showed here and give me just enough slack to get the bolt back into the axle holder. I tested it and it all works great. Thanks
Thank you so much for this! Finally have a parking brake again!
Bro your a life saver!!! Spent hours wondering what the hell I was doing wrong. Thanks man!
Glad to help. Thanks for watching
Thank you so much! This was my lifesaver.
EXACTLY what I was looking for. THANK YOU!
Great, I took me a long time to figure it out. Thanks for watching
Just went through replacing the cable and the ends are too far apart. I thought there was an adjustment at the pedal but there was none, however, I did notice that the part you are speaking about is in the lower position. I will try what you suggest, I am sure it will work. Thanks so much.
No music. No long intro. Just the facts!
Thank you!! I knew there was anther way with all that slack. Now to try to take it up.
It's a nightmare. I tried to pry that cable channel but nothing to use as a fulcrum except the plastic hood release lever. So I bagged it. Atleast it looks like it works now.
Thanks a bunch. I had no helper so used a couple of bungie cords to keep the pressure pulling on the cable while holding the spring down and forcing the drum to turn with a long screwdriver.
Yep I always have ratchet straps and bungie cords. You never know when you will need a extra hand. Thanks for watching
You sound like pastor John Piper lol. Thanks for the help may God bless you hundredfold.
Thank you! I thought I was going to have to remove the whole assembly to give me enough slack to install my new intermediate cable.
It took me a while to figure this out so I am glad this helped. Thanks for watching
Thank you very much you've been a great help
Hi all - I have an 'augmentation' for this video! Zero tools required. No force.
Push the pedal to the floor (by hand - fine, that's a tool!)
The spring arm pointed out is now nearly at the floor. You'll see a notch, that you just push the spring into.
Gently release the pedal.
Go underneath and just pull the cable out until you can link the parts (almost no effort needed).
Now just flick the spring out from the notch (carefully so it doesn't bite you!!!), and push the pedal a few times to reset things. Done! :)
Your awesome I’ve installed and deinstalled three times thanks
I read the instructions in the manual, and I still couldn't translate that stupid engineer gibberish. Thanks a ton for the help.
Thanks for posting this! Mine will not take up the slack in the cable.. Pedal doesnt co9me back up either. I wonder if that spring is serviceable
I think it a not serviceable item. But if you put it out you might be able to figure out whats wrong with it. Possible a broken spring that holds the ratch paw. That might be repairable. Thanks for watching.
Hey I know this post was a year ago but did you ever repair this? My truck 2007 Chevy Silverado emergency brake pedal won’t come back up o it’s on.
Well Hot Diggity Dogg! Thank you for posting! I knew there's gotta be a way to release the tension on the cable... I knew how to do it on the Fords but I couldn't figure out why there was no nail hole to be found on the GMC
It took me a while to figure out this one.Thanks for watching
Holy cow this was insightful!!! Thanks!
Oh my god! Best video ever! Thank you very much!
Wow. Made it simple. Good job. 👍🏽
I work on these fairly regularly and i use an air fitting wedged behind the parking brake pedal to hold the spring release mechanism. Then I go under the vehicle and use a rag and vise grips to secure the cable where it exits the first area (sort of under the driver’s seat). It does not to be tight because when it is released there isn’t much tension. Then I use the Lisle park cable release tool to disconnect the cable at the “Y” and from there O can diagnose and replace the rear cables as needed.
Most of the time the trucks I work on the cable is broken and you have to reset the lever. That is a good idea when you can do it that way. Thanks for watching.
HI....Do you think this is the technique for adjustment also ( i have NO broken cable or replacement)....My pedal is down to the floor before parking break barely holds???
If you have rear disc brakes in the back I bet that the small drum brake shoe's that are the parking brake have come unglued and are spinning around in the rotor/drum.
should this work with 2006 2500HD GMC Sierra as well?
This should be the same on 2007-2014 trucks. This one was a 2009 GMC. But I am not sure on the 2006
Worked on my 2004 2500hd
Me again my 2004 Silverado. the brake cable rusted and broke next to the frame below the drivers side seat area, will that whole cable have to be replaced from the parking brake in the cab to where it attaches to the two rear brake cables? Thanks again
Most trucks have a intermediate or a center cable. Your are going to have to look under it to see what you have. You are also going to need the wheelbase to order the cable.
I'm about to replace my cable on a 1991 c3500 dually. Hope this comes in handy.
That one probably doesn't have a ratchet like this one, it should be just replace the cable. But not sure. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore your right! I went out to look and it doesn't. Mine never broke it just stretched I'm guessing. Its still connected but extremely loose now. I'm not sure what's really going on.
You just saved a '93 1500 from being pushed off the lift, in midair. Lol
My cable is ok, my brake will set, my issue it when I release the Ebrake it comes back up but not far enough to stay tight and the brake light is on. I Have to pull it up with my foot.
Is there something else that may help me?
Does the parking brake cable hold? One of the levers in the back if it has disc brakes could be not returning all the way. The shoes could be out of adjustment or you cables could be stretched.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore
I just got the truck last week. In the middle of remodeling etc, I haven't had a lot of time.
The cable is at least working on one side but I know it needs to be adjusted. I live on a hill
I wasn't sure if there was another place a spring pulled the pedal back up. I'll take it in and have it adjusted and checked >)
@@FullAutoApolotics Something is wrong, most of these don't have a cable adjustment. Everything must work in order to work.
Hi do you talk about the rear brake cable cause that is my problem on 2008 gmc Duramax to hook the right cable in that clips tank you
Yes you can release the front cable to give you more slack to hook the rear cables in.Thanks for watching
Works for Silverados as well, thanks.
On these trucks, does this ratchet pedal control how much max tension is applied to the cable? In other words, when these systems are fully operational and the parking brake shoes are adjusted properly, is that pedal supposed to go to the floor?
I just checked my sons 2005 Escalade that we rebuild the parking brake system and yes the pedal goes to the floor and it works.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Thanks for the reply, I was beginning to think they were made this way but I have an update.
2002 Silverado. I would get the shoes adjusted nice and tight and the pedal would be rock hard initially and then fade off and the pedal would go to the floor BUT it would "hold" the truck (Not very well in gear).
Came to find that everytime I would adjust them tight then lose the pedal, the actual parking shoe ears were COLLAPSING at the tabs where they mount into the cylinder.
Apparently the aftermarket brand Perfect Stop shoes will not hold up to a HEAVY foot when setting the park brake, they collapse if you press the pedal set too hard. Could be fixed by welding a support tab to the shoe, assuming that the GM shoes would not do this.
So the answer is no, the pedal should not go to the floor when everything is proper
life saver thank you so so much great upload
I wonder if is an adjustment inside the rear drum,like in my Chevy Tahoe?!
There is not enough adjustment to get the cables in unless you do this.
Is the parking brake setup the same on a 2004 1500 Silverado? the parking brake on my Silverado went completely down to the floor board. Thanks
I am not sure but I would say it should be similar. Thanks for watching
Thank you for the lesson!
I have a 2001 Suburban and the brake light doesn't come on I constantly hear a chime is this the reason? Also the emergency brake pedal is all the way down to the floor I had no idea I've been driving with it for a week like this it still has resistance but it doesn't stop the vehicle, what's going on with this? Is the cable broke perhaps? Or does it just need adjusting?
The chime is warning you that the parking brake is on. The parking brake could be out of adjustment or a cable could be bad. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore appreciate the response I lifted the emergency pedal now and it's still chiming I guess it's out of whack perhaps? I can recall now that AAA guy probably put the emergency brake down when he told it any never ticket out of that position.
@@darealblair3262 There should be a sign in the dash telling you why the chime is going off. like door ajar, brake on, something like that.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore thanks again I thought so too but there's actually nothing. Just the typical service the four-wheel drive which always comes on. But it never constantly kept that going. This is very strange to me.
@@darealblair3262 I don't know either. But if it is the parking brake you should be able to go under dash and unplug the parking brake switch and see if the warning noise stops.
THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCH!!!!!
You make it look easy!
What yr would this apply for
This should be the same on 2007-2014 trucks. This one was a 2009 GMC.
Hey have the tab up with a screwdriver holding it and the cable still isn’t long enough any ideas??
I would double check that you have the right cable and then make sure somebody else pulls on the front cable as you release it again to see if that makes it long enough.
Does this apply to a 2002 Sierra?
I looked it up and it did not show this.
I'm not sure if this is the problem with my truck or not, but it's a start.
My problem is on an 2006 Colorado, then cable it self is ceased, and I need to remove the cable from the pedal to the bracket it splits at.
If cable is no good and you are going to replace it, then cut the cable.
Thanks, a great help.
I have the reverse problem...I have too much slack. How do I remove the slack?
Then there is something wrong. The actuators at the back of the backing plates are probably frozen on.
I tryed too adjust to get pedal higher....
Could not do it.....it does work but pedal is very low and on big hills i need to push very hard too floor
Rear shoe's are bad or needs adjusted
Thanks you think the manual Chilton would have it not.
My pedal goes all the way to the floor, weak hold, should I try this adjustment? Or should I adjust at the rear wheels? Or both?
I know my parking brake switch is bad, I couldn't do a TPMS reset/relearn because of this, the dash light wouldn't light up with the pedal to the floor, the cables all look good, I bypassed the switch for the TPMS relearn and tapped into the parking brake wire by the switch, and grounded it only to do the relearn. (I hope that info helps someone else)
I watched this because to swap that switch I may have to pull that pedal assembly and redo it. It looks like a pain in the ass.
If your parking brake cables are all working, then I would say try to adjust them, but I bet your parking brake shoes are bad. They come unglued and then they don't hold. Thanks for watching
What kind of asshat would thumbs down this? Thanks for the tip.
People just love to hate. Thanks for watching
Awesome!
Thank you and don't forget to subscibe
We were struggling and we found the the release break L Vid L guy
I will let you know when i do....
your post was 6 months ago did it work ???????
WHY DIDN'T YOU SHOW US....A VID LECTURE
I had all ready fix it. It tells you in the video how to do it. That is all that matters. Thanks for watching
Gonna help be out so much, thanks!
Does the E brake cables on the gmc only go to the rear brake?
Yes only to the rear. Thanks for watching
Yes only to the rear. Thanks for watching