Thank you for this video. I just changed the emergency brake module assembly on a 99 Silverado. I wouldn't have been able to do it if I hadn't seen your video first.Thank you so much, you saved me a lot of money!
@@joem2197 The cable was broken at the module assembly.The only thing I knew to do was just replace the module itself. This video made it much easier to do than if I had tried to figure it out myself. I didn't replace the cable. I just used the cable that came with the new module, and connected it to the cable that runs all the way back to the rear brakes.
Thank you for your reply. That's where I'm at. Replacing the emergency / parking brake module and hope it solves. the issue. a Haynes repair manual says a failed seal in the master cylinder could also cause excessive pedal travel. All the brakes have new calibers and pads and were all freshly bled. Will check the master cylinder before replacing the brake module. Must be one or the other. Will let you know. Thank you for replying.
Excellent video. I did one today on my customers 02 Suburban. It went well except I pinched the wire harness that goes to the panel we move out of the way. I disconnected 3 connectors so I could get more room swinging the box out of the way and now the vehicle doesn't start. It pays to be careful when putting that back in because of one harness that is hard to see at the top.
Thanks for your video! I have a Yukon XL, and have just ordered a new cable assembly... Without the Adjustable bolt from the old system how would you make an adjustment. You said at the wheel, but you can only adjust so much as you can't get rotor's on you adjust to much. Thanks again!
Thank you, we saw the bracket and the first two nuts on the pedal assembly but couldn't locate the third all the way in the back, nor could we find another video that showed where they were
Thank you for the video. Mine hasn't worked in years. I push the pedal down, and hardly any resistance at all. This video gave me insight about the related parts and mechanism. As other folks commenting, I also was wondering what problem you were having in the first place. What was not working correctly? Thank you again.
Got an '03 Yukon XL, have worked on this twice til I'm blue in the face & can Not get it to hold even in neutral. Has to be something wrong w/ the cable assembly, so what was wrong w/ the old cables, just stretched ? thanks, - take care
Did the stretched middle cable require the front pedal mechanism to be replaced ? The parking brake adjustment is at the rear rotor drum area. Having problems with mine. Any updates ?
Yo tengo una Chevrolet Silverado 1500 y cuando piso el pedal del freno de emergencia en una bajada o subida, el pedal se va hasta abajo y no detiene la camioneta,, alguna sugerencia
The cable wasnt moving with the pedal engagement. I took the pedal out and forced the cable back & forth and sanded down a torn up piece of the cable. Lubed it up. Now the cable moves but im still getting no resistance on the pedal and minimum stopping power
Warning: There are two different mechanisms! My 2003 Tahoe Z71 and maybe some other models have a 2" body raise versus the "normal" models. The original part numbers are 15143446 without 2" body raise and 15138275 with 2" Body Raise. I'm fabricating a two inch extension to go between the cable coming off the assembly to the intermediate cable today. So even if you order original GM parts, it doesn't help if you order the wrong one!
Always wondered what the difference was with the Z71 models (Tahoe and Suburban's have Z71 models and not so clear cause shops ask if it's a 1500 or 2500 without even mentioning Z71...Sheesh...). If you or anyone knows a site that details the model differences, please post it.
@@tubsun my bad... my Z71 did NOT have the two inch body raise. My problem was I didn't have the parking brake lever installed properly on one side and it was binding on the shock mount. The two inch body raise is option id HVY on the glove box door. So that might require different parts.
I have a comment. I am trying to pair my TPMS sensors with the vehicle after a tire rotation. I am supposed to follow a process that involves actuating the parking break, then turning the light switch on and off four times, which is supposed to give me a horn beep. I was not getting that beep. Then I realized the brake light is not illuminated. I came to find the location of the switch. I will add the following. Before you replace the switch, wiggle it. It appears to have fixed my issue.
My brake release cable broke with the e brake engaged. I replaced the cable but now when I press down on the pedal there is little resistance (brake shoes do not engage) any idea?
When I pulled the pin out the pedal was stuck at the top and wouldn’t go down. I tried pushing the pedal down with my foot and I saw a bunch of metal shavings... the pedal seems to be broken again now. I don’t know why. Was your pedal stuck after removing the pin?
This happened to me too, after I finished the complete install, I pulled the pin but the peddle is stuck in the top position - did you figure out a solution? Almost feels like there is another pin.
Jiggle it a little side to side as you tighten the three bolts to get it in the right position. If you pull the pin and it can’t move loosen the bolts and try the side to side. It’s hitting something under the dash. No second pin or anything
@@davidmurray7430 You are a life saver. This had me totally stumped, I installed the pedal and even torqued it down but it would not budge even a tiny bit. Yes it was hitting the dash frame. I had to remove all the nuts and go in at an angle to clear the dash. It works great now. Thank you!
Does anyone know how the cable connects to the pedal assembly itself? I see from this video that new ones come with the cable already attached. If my pedal (04 Suburban 2500) is no longer attached to the cable (which apparently happens on the backside, can't see it in this video or without removing that whole assembly), is it repairable or is the only play to replace with an all-new already-attached assembly as seen here?
Hey man same problem happened to me, my cable in the middle snapped but fell of inside the mechanism and looking for an easy solution. Did you ever figure it out ?
Great video, I am wondering what happens if you push down on the pedal before it’s installed? And do you take the pin with the zip tie on it out after installation
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Thank you for this video. I just changed the emergency brake module assembly on a 99 Silverado. I wouldn't have been able to do it if I hadn't seen your video first.Thank you so much, you saved me a lot of money!
Why did the emergency brake module make a difference ? You replaced a cable also?
@@joem2197 The cable was broken at the module assembly.The only thing I knew to do was just replace the module itself. This video made it much easier to do than if I had tried to figure it out myself. I didn't replace the cable. I just used the cable that came with the new module, and connected it to the cable that runs all the way back to the rear brakes.
Thank you for your reply. That's where I'm at. Replacing the emergency / parking brake
module and hope it solves. the issue. a Haynes repair manual says a failed seal in the
master cylinder could also cause excessive pedal travel. All the brakes have new calibers
and pads and were all freshly bled. Will check the master cylinder before replacing the
brake module. Must be one or the other. Will let you know. Thank you for replying.
@@joem2197 Good luck to you Joe!
Excellent video.
I did one today on my customers 02 Suburban. It went well except I pinched the wire harness that goes to the panel we move out of the way. I disconnected 3 connectors so I could get more room swinging the box out of the way and now the vehicle doesn't start. It pays to be careful when putting that back in because of one harness that is hard to see at the top.
04 GMC Sierra 2500HD same assembly, worked great. Thank you for the video!
Nice job on the video. I took the module out of my son’s 2001 Silverado today. Very helpful!
You should explain what the issue/symptoms
Thanks for your video! I have a Yukon XL, and have just ordered a new cable assembly... Without the Adjustable bolt from the old system how would you make an adjustment. You said at the wheel, but you can only adjust so much as you can't get rotor's on you adjust to much. Thanks again!
Thank you sir. I have a 2007 Silverado. it seems nothing has really changed..
You can get a threaded intermediate cable. Should put back what you remove. Good video.
Thank you sir I bought a 2003 tahoe and the E brake is broken, Great reference
Thank you, we saw the bracket and the first two nuts on the pedal assembly but couldn't locate the third all the way in the back, nor could we find another video that showed where they were
Thank You for sharing this video ,there is no other info avail. Now i can proceed wit cable replacement Canada.
Thank you for the video. Mine hasn't worked in years. I push the pedal down, and hardly any resistance at all. This video gave me insight about the related parts and mechanism. As other folks commenting, I also was wondering what problem you were having in the first place. What was not working correctly? Thank you again.
This video was very helpful
Got an '03 Yukon XL, have worked on this twice til I'm blue in the face & can Not get it to hold even in neutral. Has to be something wrong w/ the cable assembly, so what was wrong w/ the old cables, just stretched ? thanks, - take care
Is there an additional video?
Do you also have to change the back cables on the parking brake when replacing this module
Do you have another video showing when you set the parking brake pedal, like when do you pull the pin!
Did the stretched middle cable require the front pedal mechanism to be replaced ?
The parking brake adjustment is at the rear rotor drum area.
Having problems with mine. Any updates ?
Nice Video … it took me 2,5 Hours to Fix the Brake now iam done and Hope it was the Last Time doing that.😂
Where did you find all of the pices of the parking break?
Yo tengo una Chevrolet Silverado 1500 y cuando piso el pedal del freno de emergencia en una bajada o subida, el pedal se va hasta abajo y no detiene la camioneta,, alguna sugerencia
The cable wasnt moving with the pedal engagement. I took the pedal out and forced the cable back & forth and sanded down a torn up piece of the cable. Lubed it up. Now the cable moves but im still getting no resistance on the pedal and minimum stopping power
Do you have to disconnect the negative in order to disconnect the box
Warning: There are two different mechanisms! My 2003 Tahoe Z71 and maybe some other models have a 2" body raise versus the "normal" models. The original part numbers are 15143446 without 2" body raise and 15138275 with 2" Body Raise. I'm fabricating a two inch extension to go between the cable coming off the assembly to the intermediate cable today. So even if you order original GM parts, it doesn't help if you order the wrong one!
Always wondered what the difference was with the Z71 models (Tahoe and Suburban's have Z71 models and not so clear cause shops ask if it's a 1500 or 2500 without even mentioning Z71...Sheesh...). If you or anyone knows a site that details the model differences, please post it.
@@tubsun my bad... my Z71 did NOT have the two inch body raise. My problem was I didn't have the parking brake lever installed properly on one side and it was binding on the shock mount. The two inch body raise is option id HVY on the glove box door. So that might require different parts.
The cable runs from the driver side I’m going to check it out because my brother Yukon the emergency brake won’t engage. I been trying to figure out
Great video!!
I have a comment.
I am trying to pair my TPMS sensors with the vehicle after a tire rotation. I am supposed to follow a process that involves actuating the parking break, then turning the light switch on and off four times, which is supposed to give me a horn beep. I was not getting that beep. Then I realized the brake light is not illuminated. I came to find the location of the switch. I will add the following. Before you replace the switch, wiggle it. It appears to have fixed my issue.
My brake release cable broke with the e brake engaged. I replaced the cable but now when I press down on the pedal there is little resistance (brake shoes do not engage) any idea?
Spring on the pedal turned when it broke
When I pulled the pin out the pedal was stuck at the top and wouldn’t go down. I tried pushing the pedal down with my foot and I saw a bunch of metal shavings... the pedal seems to be broken again now. I don’t know why. Was your pedal stuck after removing the pin?
This happened to me too, after I finished the complete install, I pulled the pin but the peddle is stuck in the top position - did you figure out a solution? Almost feels like there is another pin.
Jiggle it a little side to side as you tighten the three bolts to get it in the right position. If you pull the pin and it can’t move loosen the bolts and try the side to side. It’s hitting something under the dash. No second pin or anything
@@davidmurray7430 You are a life saver. This had me totally stumped, I installed the pedal and even torqued it down but it would not budge even a tiny bit. Yes it was hitting the dash frame. I had to remove all the nuts and go in at an angle to clear the dash. It works great now. Thank you!
Does anyone know how the cable connects to the pedal assembly itself? I see from this video that new ones come with the cable already attached. If my pedal (04 Suburban 2500) is no longer attached to the cable (which apparently happens on the backside, can't see it in this video or without removing that whole assembly), is it repairable or is the only play to replace with an all-new already-attached assembly as seen here?
Hey man same problem happened to me, my cable in the middle snapped but fell of inside the mechanism and looking for an easy solution. Did you ever figure it out ?
Show the other SIDE please
Great video, I am wondering what happens if you push down on the pedal before it’s installed? And do you take the pin with the zip tie on it out after installation
After
If you take them pin out before you'll end up like me with a unit that doesn't work and needs to be replaced again.
How did you get the intermediate cable to reach the other two cables
maybe the new assembly had the brake applied already
I'm changing cables on a 01 Silverado 1500... what a giant pain in the ass!!! These were most certainly not engineered to be worked on....
Thanks for the video, but we want to know about the pin
Should’ve started by explaining why replacing.
99
Honda, Toyota, Hyundai, these mechanisms die with the cars, junk engineers.