Precision Plumbing Dallas- Lesson 6: Tank-to-Bowl Kit .mp4
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- Опубликовано: 24 мар 2013
- precision-plumbing.com/ 469-248-2136 Precision Plumbing Dallas providing Service Repair Remodels Installing Quality Products With a Best Rate, Best Warranty Guarantee, Serving the Dallas,Texas installing Water heaters, repairing Slab leaks, Drain cleaning
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Great tutorial and a great public service. Thank you SO MUCH for putting this online.
This is a great service. i saved some money, but more importantly I have the satisfaction of having learned something useful. Thank you very much!
You are a good teacher. Direct and to the point. Thanks.
A ratchet wrench with a deep socket works better that a cressent wrench. Specially for tight places like the back and bottom of comode.
It would be nice to be able to stand behind it like that! :P but seriously, I appreciate the good camera angles where you can see what's going on!
Thank you so much! This is so easy to follow along with. The maintenance man was supposed to replace the toilet in our apartment months ago when the tank cracked, but he must have forgotten and never came back, so I'm just going to replace it myself.
This is a great step by step tutorial. We have a leak coming from the tank and I couldn’t figure out what it was. This was an amazing help. Thanks man!
: BIG THANKS ! 1st time I've had to connect the tank to a bowl with no instructions. Watched your video and had it done in a couple of minutes...
I like to use the tank to bowl bolt and put rubber washer on inside of tank. As soon as it comes out of the tank on the outside I use another rubber washer and a metal washer over that and tighten. Below that where the tank bolts on to the bowl use wing nuts that fit the threads and a metal washer between the wing nut and the bowl. Tighten. Use a level on top of the tank to be sure the tank is installed level. I'm not a "Pro" but I have had more than enough problems with toilet leakage to take extra steps avoiding leakage onto the floor!
I’ve been using a level also- but it still wobbles
Just did this on my AS toilet. What they don't warn you about is the new gasket will sit proud (high), so the tank and the bowl won't be in full contact, and tightening the bolts pulls it down to the bowl. Just go SLOW and only tighten them up only enough so it doesn't rock.
Also, just in case, wedge some tissue between the tank and bowl (if there is space), so you can easily check for slow leaking.
Oh, and wedging a rolled up hand towel between the wall and tank can help steady it while you're re-installing the tank.
You’re a real one bro
I’ve spent 3 hrs now trying to get it seated properly without wobble. Not satisfied yet. I tried it with and without the extra washer and nut. Without seems better. Will try again tomorrow.
@@robinstreight1319 LOL I have been working on a brand new toilet that was installed by plumbers. Licensed plumbers at that is. I don't know my if it's the flapper Gizmo that fits down to the gasket.. that's the only thing left that I didn't do. It's leaking at that going over to The bold and dripping. Totally driving me bats.😆
They do sell different thickness seals. Some toilets need thicker, some need thinner. I usually just shim the gap to keep it from rocking. Anything will work, as long as the shims are hidden from sight. Paint sticks, wood shims, stacked pennies, rubber hose.....
OMG TY TY TY as a female thank you for these simple and clear instructions with out it sounding like we are all dummy's and cant do anything by our self , Toilet in and done by me a female with these great instruction :)
Not female but still applicable
As a male I am thankful for the how to tutorial as well. I did this myself too, as a man. I installed a whole new toilet in fact, had to grind down the cast iron pipe and install a flange, which included drilling 4 holes in the cement. It had no flange, just 2 bolts threaded into concrete. A female can do all this too. Picking the old toilet up in one big piece would maybe be the only exception.
Got a kit from a Menards and put it in. Had to cut the tank bolts with a hacksaw blade. Brass bolts so it only took 10 or 15 minutes. Removed the base too and gave it a good cleaning. Watched a few videos for tips and to double check if I did it right. Not that big of a job. Put on new feed line and valve . New wax ring. No leaks.
a plumber said I can add a light smear of Vaseline between ceramic and rubber gasket as further protection against folding/bunching of gasket and further seal of joint.
Thanks Very helpful... especially showing it close up on a bench. Much appreciated
Question: what are those little clips on the toilet that appear to be supporting the tank from wobbling? I could use something like that.
Thanks for the detailed help!
A real craftsman seldom uses a Crescent wrench. Use a box or open end wrench or, if you're really slick and do this plumbing work all the time, you'll have a little 1/2 or 9/16 speed wrench that makes tightening up tank nuts a snap.
This was a great video. Very specific instructions..Thank You, my ailing toilet has been cured!
Thank you so very much for your video it helped tremendously and save some money I did not have to replace a whole toilet just the back thank you Jesus
Thanks for this very much appreciated lesson.
I have replaced the flush valve the fill valve all screws/bolts water line, and the gasket under the tank. I am still getting a leak and don't know why. After I fill the tank with water I do not feel any leaks anywhere yet the water in the tank slowly leaks out. What am I missing?
Do you think for inside the tank adding a metal washer between the rubber washer & nut a metal washer is recommended?
Thanks for sharing now i can understand how it all works and what i need to replace since there is a little leak i think its that black round gasket going into the toilet piece....
It's becoming apparent those 2 bolt holes are always 5.5" apart allowing for an older 3-gallon tank to be bolted on to a new bowl intended for the new smaller tanks. The tank is easy to recondition with new parts as long as there are no cracks. I'm doing it!
I really like your videos!! Ok, so "until the toilet becomes sturdy". Does that also mean that there should be absolutely No (slight) wiggle of the tank?
I know this is a old video but could you tell me where to get the kind of washer your using with the bolts? All the kits I can find have flat washers, but my current setup is using the kind of bolts and washers you use in the video. I can’t find them anywhere. I want the washer that’s flat but also has the part that goes through the tank holes. Just like the ones in the video. Thanks
how not to overtighten the nuts underneath the tank? in other words, how do I know how tight? thanks in advance
I can handle it - thanks for the tutorial!
all all gaskets standard? i bought the one that comes with it and it does not work and it keeps leaking big time. I had to use the old existing one, now I have another one to change.. i am afraid the old one may not be good.. so , what kind of gasket should I get (that didnt come with the kit)?
Muchas gracias maestro por realizar este instructivo vídeo de enseñanza de plomería!
good visual but,,,those are fancy bolt seals inside the tank no metal washer? screw head doesnt cut the rubber ? how tight on tank bolt seals? apesh_t tight?
I just had to reinstall my bolts because I used a metal washer between the bolt and rubber washer inside the tank and it leaked.
Can we replace the inflow fill valve washer also? Is that part of the tank-to-bowl kit? Thank you.
Thank you for sharing! Much helpful. But may I know how I could buy a toilet tank to match my Toilet bowl which might be the brand of 20 years ago. Thank you.
Excellent instructions and very useful when you can't call a plumber in the middle of this Virus Pandemia Gracias from Mexico :)
Most tank bolt kits show using a rubber washer on the underside, between final washer and bowl. Perhaps that is to maintain tension on the tank. Most also use a washer and thin "jam nut" under the tank to keep the top rubber washer tight to the tank bottom to prevent leaks, which you mention, "good but not needed". I would fear that as the large foam gasket shrinks over time, the top seal might loose bolt tension and leak, without the jam nut.
I've been watching electrical and plumbing DIY How-To videos most of the day, trying to fix stuff around the house. I have yet to see anyone do everything right, the way I would have done it, or the way it looks like it should have been done. What you said was very helpful.
"using a rubber washer on the underside, between final washer and bowl. " Yes that is a good idea. To have a rubber washer to act as a cushion between the porcelain and the metal. Also it will be like a spring to moderate the tension of the bolt.
The one downside of using the jam nut/washer is that if there is a leak on the bolts, you have to remove the tank to tighten that seal. Whereas if you don't use the optional, you can just give a twist to the nut to get a bit more bite. 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other. I'm opting for the jam nut.
I have an American Standard toilet I went to put the tank back on and the bolt holes aren't lining up perfectly causing the toilet to rock a little bit and make the bolts almost bend. Can I drill out the toilet holes to line up the bolts better? Thanks
I purchased a fluidmaster repair kit and the gasket between the tank and bowl doesn't have the cut outs for the large hex nut. I am leary of using it because the tank is kind of wobbly, since it doesn't recess enough. I tried to use the old gasket with the cut out and it leaves about 1/8 of inch of the plastic exposed and am afraid that the seal won't be sufficient. Any suggestions? I couldn't tell by the video if using the old one would be ok. Thanks
Thanks for the info I will say it alot easier on a work bench than a toilet bowl mounted to the floor
Hi,
I have the 2RSO2 Glacier Bay toilet/tank. I initially had a leak coming from a very rusted bolt. Replaced the bolts and the tank gasket using the Glacier Bay specific gasket. Thought issue was resolved but now I have more water leaking than before! No leakage coming from the bolts and the gasket is flush with the bottom of the tank, but somehow the leak is coming the from gasket area causing water to leak to the front of the tank.
Do you have any suggestions? Do you think it's just a matter of tightening the bolts more?
Great video! Thanks!
How do you replace a cracket fill valve bolt? Im assumkng thats what its called. The white plastic bolt on the bottom of the tank that connects the water line is cracked & leaking water 😣
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
What do you think the problem is if you have done all that you mentioned and the left bolt is leaking.
Thanks for this informative video
Whats the best way to get rusted nuts ans bolts off the tank
My new tank spud washer didn’t fit well onto the old toilet and leaked. I put the old spud washer over the new one and it provided a good seal.
Key part I just found was to clean around when the gaskets go. I was lazy and learned the hard way.
Thank you for the prompt reply. Are you ferreting to the external supply line or the internal line in the the tank??
the external one from the supply stop the the fill valve. but if you have any questions you can always call a local plumber to come out and help you. Our rule is if we touch it and it wears out, we replace it. Better to spend the extra money now and avoid a flood later.
Hardly ever is a reservoir replaced in such optimal conditions. Usually, the old niuts and bolts are corroded as one.
Im frm texas but what does being in dallas gotta do with plumbing
I'm preparing to do this repair and have started to look at kits at the hardware. My question is: How do you know if you have a 2" or 3" flush valve in reference to the size of the tank gasket? Thank You.
Inside, at the bottom of the tank is where the water exits the tank into the bowl. You should be able to measure the opening of the flush valve. It'll be the same at the other end.
what if you have a leak at the fill plug area
Cannot get tank flushed with bowl to reattach water line after installing new rubber gasket. Rubber gasket prevents tank to sit lower.
First and foremost, thank you for the great tutorial. I have a Mansfield Dual flush toilet (RB 209 stamped in the tank). Toilet has been exceptional for the last four years, but now leaks between the tank and bowl only when flushed. This sounds like the a replacement tank to bowl kit issue. Do you agree??
yes sir it does. remember to replace your supply line as well, and clean the tank and stool off really well. sediment will affect the seal of the gaskets.
5:40. I still have a leak in the area you indicated. Do I tightened more the bolt or the water supply?
Confirm it is actually there. Dry everything several times if necessary. If you need two sets of nuts, tighten the first. It could be cracked there. Also, plumbers normally put thread paste around rubber washer. Doesn’t leak without the paste tho. If the water comes from rubber washer area, it is definitely not the water supply hose/pipe
does it take reccessed r beveled washer?? help
I put nuts on the bottom of the tank and it lifted the tank so the tank to bowl gasket doesn't seal right. I'll fix right away. That nut between the tank and bowl is my leaking problem.
No one ever replaces the gasket that seals the flush valve on the inside. Wonder why? I get a lot that leak there.
My situation is a leak between the bowl and the tank only when it flushes, would that be a tank-2-bowl kit or the canister itself?
I have the same problem, did you figure it out?
Joy Coughlan
I had a metal washer in the tank on top of the rubber washer, so I took those off. That did the trick. I just kept trying and it finally worked.
good vid. thank you.
Thank you. Very understandable.
Can I use any tank to bowl kit or do I have to have one for my specific toilet?
Any kit will work
It depends on the toilet.
THANKS
After connecting my water supply I found that the water did not flow into the tank instead leaking with fuse
Thanks a ton!
Looks like the valve is not connected to a water supply I don't think have any water leaks
You should also tighten that lock nut on the flush valve with a lock nut wrench or an oil filter wrench. Hand tight is not tight enough, mine leaked there.
Did it leak into the bowl?
@@johnnytday1 no. Onto the floor. Also on some toilets, the ceramic isn't flat so I needed plumbers putty around the nut.
@boltup5566 my problem is a small steady drip keeps going into the bowl and I can't figure out why. I just put on a brand new flapper that came with the kit so it shouldn't be that. That leaves me clueless now
@@johnnytday1 do you know about the food dye trick? Drop a couple drops of food dye and see where it leaks.
@boltup5566 yes I had seen that. I finally figured out the problem. The rubber gasket had moved out of place some when I was reattaching the tank to the bowl that was causing the leak. I appreciate the help though
What if my flex line is dripping slowly and I've had to tighten it more than once?
Maybe the washer needs replacing.
Thank you!!!!
Replaced the gasket and two bolts and on bolt keeps leaking. I can’t figure out why one is good but the other leaks. They are brass bolts with a rubber washer.
Maybe I should try plumbers putty between the tank and the rubber washer ?
My is still leaking too, did you ever figure out why yours kept leaking?
I use plumber's putty between the rubber washer and the tank give it a little extra seal
Check for a hairline crack in the tank. These can be hard to spot.
Alan Frizzell Was
Hi, has anyone figured out the issue and fixed the problem? I am having the same issue that the water still drips from the same spot (one of the tight screws)after changing the new washers, screws and gaskets and sealed with silicone and asphalt around the drip spot inside the tank.
Okay, my tank to bowl kit has 2 washers, 2 nuts, and 2 rubber seals. Where does the second rubber seal go? Does it go under the tank washer, or does it go under the bowl washer? I have watched over a dozen DIY How-To videos today on electrical and plumbing, and I have yet to see one that is done by someone who appears to thoroughly know what they're doing. It appears that he didn't install at least 1 metal washer and 1 rubber washer. I would have never installed and tightened nut to china without the included metal or metal and rubber washer, or leave a rubber gasket out, but this guy did. I just don't get it.
any plumbers grease or silcone any where on washers or gaskets?
No, just elbow.
Thumbs up on this one.
Hi, my situation now that all parts are replaced is that the water is not coming out of the holes around the inside rim of the toilet.. .any suggestions? Thanks, great video!
Ed Breeding , the small hose from the fill valve to the overflow tube is not in place.
we did this twice yesterday and the tank is leaking. We put on a brand new gasket. UGH. was hoping to find a tip as to why this gasket is not sealing.
So was I!
@@sgmoney2747 as well was I...
Excellent information of fixing
Thanks
just fyi, KY jelly also works as a lubricant..better that plumbers grease.
I also need to find a spider monkey together in that tight space!
Can't you use a ratchet and socket instead of a crescent wrench?
Sure.....whatever works.
Nice 👍
nice
How about doing real life like I'm doing today with corroded nuts and bolts
Sny734
Lol I just did it and the screw inside wasnt even a screw anymore I had to use pliers to hold it. Took 45 mins to get those two bolts out
If the Bolts are corroded in just use a Hacksaw Blade to cut them and they will come out when you remove the Toilet Tank etc. Easy fix etc.
Read my post on corroded bolts removal etc.Works for me.
I was thinking that 2 minutes into the video the corrosion is terrible the heads of the brass screws are so boogered-up you barely can get them off I had to use a pair of vice grips on the threaded part in back it down off that way
I know this is 9yrs ago but they forgot the most important part… clean the toilet first. It’s dirty.
When I flush the toilet water leaks through my bolts .
It's not going to "FLOOD" your house .It's going to wet your floor which will be avoided by turning off the water .
Trickiest part is how much to tighten the tank bolts without cracking the porcelain.
hi plumber here uk,,tighten up hand tight (plumbers hand tight)then 1/2turn with tool
You never put a nut aginst the tank ! that's wrong
install vanity in bathroom
Thanks for not showing the inside of the tank...
every go here for more details
I see you had to shim your tank in this video. Perhaps it's from the nuts you placed underneath the tank. Hmmm.
i meant to say "referring to"! Laugh Out Loud
how convenient that the screw threads were cut down no water was actually hooked up lol
how not to overtighten the nuts underneath the tank? in other words, how do I know how tight? thanks in advance