Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. My bolt was just turning and turning when trying to remove manually. I didn’t want to use a drill or impact driver for fear of rounding the bolt head. Watched this and saw your approach and explanation. Used the impact and they spin straight out. Thought I was going nuts ! Appreciate the time you put in to making this video 👍🏻
Just discovered your video, really helpful for me, love the home made special tools you made for the fork seal replacement. Thank you for taking the time to make the video, really helped me.
I have always found it easier to remove the botton slide holder while the fork is still held in the fork clamps and let the oild out then remove the fork to replace the seals ?? I have done it many times like that because i dont want to put the fork in a vice even with vis soft clamps.
better to drain the oil first, either by taking the top cap off and inverting the fork, then replaceing the cap or, by using the drain plugs fitted to the bottom of some fork legs, (like mine!) then theres no oil to lubricate the damper rod and the bolt will undo more easily....
@@bikerdood1100 Once you've loosened the bolt, why not just take the top cap off and remove the springs and spacers and tip out the oil? Pumping the fork will help expell most of it, then you can finish removing the bolt from the bottom without flooding the floor. You will still have some oil in there but it wont be anything like the amount of a full leg.. You should also clean any threadlocking compound off the bolt and out of the treads in the damper rod to help insertion and apply fresh loctite (other compounds are available) upon re-assambly.
@@bikerdood1100 so i used a metal broom handle and it got the first one apart and back together. the bottom bolt wouldn't come loose on the second one. now the broom handle isn't holding it well enough to keep the damper rod from turning. I'll just buy the tool
@@JoseppeM well if you’re referring to the one on the bottom It will just spin unless you can 1 compress the spring effectively 2 turn V fast Both As it’s usually an Allen bolt I cut the correct size Allen wrench so it’s just straight, mounted it in a drill, compressed the spring with body weight and wam off they come after about a second, once loose I undo it by hand and bob is a family member as they say
can you or have you ever done this leaving the fork on the bike ?? I have an old silver wing and to get to the middle clamp means taking all the fairing off "massive job" well i am lazzy !!
@@bikerdood1100 Will do but just found a chap that always does them in situe the clamps act as a natural vice for all the bolts infact I would go as far as saying it makes the job easier so will now do it this way Cheers !!
Авто/Мото
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. My bolt was just turning and turning when trying to remove manually. I didn’t want to use a drill or impact driver for fear of rounding the bolt head. Watched this and saw your approach and explanation. Used the impact and they spin straight out. Thought I was going nuts ! Appreciate the time you put in to making this video 👍🏻
Just glad it helped
First time I used a drill for it
It’s was hart in mouth stuff but it works surprisingly well
Just discovered your video, really helpful for me, love the home made special tools you made for the fork seal replacement. Thank you for taking the time to make the video, really helped me.
Thank you for feedback
5:10
Nice hammer idea. Love it ❤
All best!
Thanks
VERY GOOD HELPFUL VIDEO
Thanks for the feedback
I have always found it easier to remove the botton slide holder while the fork is still held in the fork clamps and let the oild out then remove the fork to replace the seals ?? I have done it many times like that because i dont want to put the fork in a vice even with vis soft clamps.
That’s easier if you have a lift for sure
Couldn’t be more convienient. I’ve just popped the seals on my motorcycle, so I’m about to get my hands dirty too.
Not too dirty hopefully
@@bikerdood1100
Nah, I’m started using nitril gloves.
Old oil isn’t good for the skin.
Does this method still apply if it is pre tentioned for example a kwak j1 modle
Now that. I don’t know I’m afraid
When you put the Allen bolt back in the bottom, I didn’t notice you putting on the washer first ,or was it stuck on the bottom end fork .
It was stuck there
Gotta do my it175 fork seals.....i guess the same applies!? many thanks and great video! cheers :-)
Should be very similar
trouble is one of my forks has a jammed in drain screw so that will be a pain i bet!@@bikerdood1100
@@migliaman depends
Sometimes they just spin we mounted an Allen driver in a drill and spun the sucker
That worked 😂
Ever tried electrical tape for seal driver? Worked wonders on my ninja 500!
Heard of that one but not tried it
better to drain the oil first, either by taking the top cap off and inverting the fork, then replaceing the cap or, by using the drain plugs fitted to the bottom of some fork legs, (like mine!) then theres no oil to lubricate the damper rod and the bolt will undo more easily....
Assuming there’s an oil plug
A lot don’t these days ( most)
@@bikerdood1100 Once you've loosened the bolt, why not just take the top cap off and remove the springs and spacers and tip out the oil? Pumping the fork will help expell most of it, then you can finish removing the bolt from the bottom without flooding the floor. You will still have some oil in there but it wont be anything like the amount of a full leg..
You should also clean any threadlocking compound off the bolt and out of the treads in the damper rod to help insertion and apply fresh loctite (other compounds are available) upon re-assambly.
so i started by taking off the top, and tried driving the seal out, now the tube is stuck pretty far down. i haven't taken the lower bolt out yet
Well there’s your problem 😂
@@bikerdood1100 so i used a metal broom handle and it got the first one apart and back together. the bottom bolt wouldn't come loose on the second one. now the broom handle isn't holding it well enough to keep the damper rod from turning. I'll just buy the tool
@@bikerdood1100 so I bought the tool and it seems like the threads on the damper rod have broken. The bolt is loose but still captive. FML
@@JoseppeM well if you’re referring to the one on the bottom
It will just spin unless you can
1 compress the spring effectively
2 turn V fast
Both
As it’s usually an Allen bolt I cut the correct size Allen wrench so it’s just straight, mounted it in a drill, compressed the spring with body weight and wam off they come after about a second, once loose I undo it by hand and bob is a family member as they say
@@bikerdood1100 it spins either way. With the holder tool or with the fork together
Good video but the intro is Far too long
Or are people attention spans too short 🤔
I use a short one now to be honest 😂
Older video
can you or have you ever done this leaving the fork on the bike ?? I have an old silver wing and to get to the middle clamp means taking all the fairing off "massive job" well i am lazzy !!
No I have not
I’m not sure how feasible that would in al honesty
@@bikerdood1100 thanks for the reply I have a funny feeling I am going to have a go wish me luck !!
@@allanhughes7859 good luck
Isn’t too difficult, be sure to replace the oil at the same time as old oil itself can be the cause leaks
@@bikerdood1100 Will do but just found a chap that always does them in situe the clamps act as a natural vice for all the bolts infact I would go as far as saying it makes the job easier so will now do it this way Cheers !!
HI Were you succesful servicing the forks while fully installed? Thanks