This has been a gret help. I have an old 2000 R6 and have changed everything apart from the fork seals. I took the forks off last week but had no idea what to do after that. Thanks to your video I can get my bike back on the roud and save myself 100squids in cold hard cash. Big thanks to you and your team.
Excellent video, i would like to add a top tip. You dont need to disturb the springs, leave the top cap alone and just separate the fork bottom from the chrome tube by removing the bottom allen key, thus leaving all the spring section in place. With the bottom key removed you can pump out the old fluid . Saves a lot of time and mess!
Your an awesome example of how this should be done. Great detail, very specific, and professional. Also short simple and to the point. Great job. Learned a lot from this one video, out of all other ones I watched. Well done👏👍
Having my own Garage this series is a must for learning, Good basic guide and an easy to follow guide...Well done on this being done in the best way possible to teach. You realy should do more of them mate.
Awesome video! Thanks so much. I am mechanically inclined and have been for most of my life but have always been scared to mess with suspension lol I feel way better about rebuilding my CB750 SS forks now. Thanks again!!
Well done mate, great vid, love the workmate, I have clamped my bike frame through the bashplate holes into the wood of the old faithful Black and Decker.
This video omits a very important step. Reassembly... you’ll have to have a bushing/seal driver. It is a device that fits around the fork stanchion tube, and drives the bushing back into the fork slider where it was. And then it will drive this new seal into the fork slider...If you do not have a seal driver tool, Many times you can just use the old seal to drive the new seal in .. you can make a bushing driver/seal driver out of PVC pipe. The longer the better because you can tap on the end of the PVC with a block of wood if the PVC piece you are using is longer than the stanchion tube.. you must be careful not to nick or scratch the area of the stanchion tube that the fork seals wipe during their stroke.. coat the seal with four oil so it will not run dry.. then when refilling the fork with fork oil, you can change the weight of the fork oil from the standard recommended weight, but you cannot put more fork oil in van is called for or you risk blowing fork seals. When cleaning internal parts such as the fork cap that has an O-ring on it, be sure not to use mineral spirits , that will damage any rubber parts such as the O-ring at the top of the fork..heavier weight fork oil will give a softer ride..lighter oil for a firmer ride..You can also try different amounts of oil but do not exceed the maximum. fork springs do you lose their stroke resistance over time. As they degrade, you really don’t notice that they have degraded as much as they have until you put new springs in. fork springs are not like fine wine, they don’t get better with age... When doing a reassembly of the machine and installing the front wheel, make sure that you do not bind the forks by tightening pinch clamp first. Always tighten the nut on the end of the axle first, then compress the front forks a few times before finally tightening the pinch clamp on the axle. If you tighten the axle nut last, after the axle clamp/pinch Has been tightened, you will be binding the forks, and this will not allow the forks to slide up and down freely. Just think about it a little...
Thanks for the incredibly helpful video mate :) I couldn't figure out of the life of me why I couldn't get my fork tube out with the slide hammer method. Turns out I didn't loosen the allen bolt at the bottom (or even know it existed).
Big Dog Motorcycles instructions state "use an impact to loosen the bottom bolt". I've done that, and it works great. There are very good reasons to do this.
thank you. working on my 05 ZZR600 fork seals and needed visual aid getting that darn dampening bolt out. Of course I took the top cap off and drained out all the oil out and removed the spacer and spring and found the dampener bolt should have been loosened already. Now just need to find a suitable clamp.
Love these guys videos. I actually have been to their site and now own a full set of their bike dvds. Thanks guy ( er if you ever need a dirty bike to clean or work on I can help you out lol) Oh and just to clarify the accent is I believe "Southern Jessie" ;-)
Thanks for those kind words matey, I'll take the 'Southern Jessie' as a compliment. I am infact a Northerner, born and bred. I've just worked hard on not developing the accent! Even though regional accents are very trendy at the moment. Cheers cock (that's a northern term of endearment btw) Nick Hine
Hi I will be dismantling forks in my 2001 Honda vfr800 due to a concerning mechanical crunch like feel from the right fork upon compression. My question is, would my forks be of the same design/construction as those of a Fireblade shown in this video? thanks
my cb250 has no bottom bush, I've done one fork using a slide hammer, all back together and complete, but I cannot release the oil seal from the second fork it's now bent out, I can't get behind the top bush with the slide hammer, and cutting the seal out would probably score the fork leg and render it knackered, any ideas?
Did you separate the tube from the lower fork housing? How would this be done? The lower 10mm alen key removed and there is a side pin/set screw? Will the housing need to be heated? Time 2:02 in the video.
Nice video. That Fireblade looks like a cbr900 correct? I am doing this currently on my 929 Fireblade. 5:10 Nice! I needed to see how this is done. I'll be replacing bushings as well. I imagine reassembly and new fork seal installation involves a metal pipe slid over and pressing/hammering the new seal into its seat? Thanks.
I bought new fork seals and fork oil for my bike. I told the guy at the garage that I'd fit it myself. I came here for advice. But it looks even more complicated than I'd imagined. :-(
This looked easy, my Yamaha XJ600 1997 bike needed a special Yamaha Tool, cost was £75, to undo the bottom bolt, otherwise it was impossible, as the Damper section just spins around. I used an extended Allen socket, I used an Extended bender bar, I used a drill on a fast speed with an Allen socket to undo the bottom bolt which hadn't been Locktited before, and never will be, no need.
please help. drivenandridden please could you tell me how much oil you put it? I have also one cbr 900 rr 90 and have read online that takes 540cc of oil, but I've only taken when removing them is this normal 300cc ?? Thank you.
+Morocco is the best If it does not unscrew your forks are basically junk. I've occasionally seen them get seized and not come out or strip out, this means you cannot separate the fork. The only way to replace fork seals when this happens is pulling a seal with a seal puller from the top which can damage and mar up the fork leg. I had this happen with one of my bikes and it was a nightmare replacing seals. Also means you can't replace bushings which can be a problem later on down the road. The best way to remove them is with an alan key socket that is very long which can be hard to find. A quick snap on a socket wrench should remove it, if not you could always try an impact driver attached to the alan key socket but you risk stripping out the bolt. Thread removers usually can't remove this and heating the fork is probably a bad idea.
I've replaced hundreds of fork seals and didn't even take them apart. Off the bike yes but not apart. Just have to be careful and know what you're doing.
If you can't find a paper copy manual, worth having a dig around the internet - if you're lucky, you'll find a download option. Always worth trying a owners' group forum, as someone almost always puts some links up for 'manual pages'
+Cody Long Compressing the fork leg to give more pressure downwards can help stop it from spinning. This is no easy task as you have to still have access to the bottom bolt. When I had this happen I clamped it in a vise at an angle and had an assistant compress the leg while I tried turning the bolt. Try using an alan head key extension on an impact driver.
+Cody Long Even better way, put the fork back into the bike and tighten the pinch bolts. Compress the fork with one hand and try to loosen the bolt with an impact with the other.
Hi matey I'd love to make many more, just need a rich benefactor to help fund them! That said we are just about to film some more for EBC and some for our own channel. Cheers Nick Hine
Great video! Like xfoolxproofx i am mechanically minded but have been a bit unsure about my forks, this has helped alot. i only need to change my dust seals and i'm assuming from this vid i can do this without opening/draining my forks Thanks
Авто/Мото
This has been a gret help. I have an old 2000 R6 and have changed everything apart from the fork seals. I took the forks off last week but had no idea what to do after that. Thanks to your video I can get my bike back on the roud and save myself 100squids in cold hard cash. Big thanks to you and your team.
Excellent video, i would like to add a top tip. You dont need to disturb the springs, leave the top cap alone and just separate the fork bottom from the chrome tube by removing the bottom allen key, thus leaving all the spring section in place. With the bottom key removed you can pump out the old fluid . Saves a lot of time and mess!
Your an awesome example of how this should be done. Great detail, very specific, and professional. Also short simple and to the point. Great job. Learned a lot from this one video, out of all other ones I watched. Well done👏👍
Definitely the best video I've seen on this subject
Having my own Garage this series is a must for learning, Good basic guide and an easy to follow guide...Well done on this being done in the best way possible to teach. You realy should do more of them mate.
Thank you! Doing this job today for the first time so this was a good warm up.
this is a very detail and useful video for self changing fork seal and oil!
thanks for uploading!
Recently changed the seals on my Suzuki GS1000G and Jesus, what a slow, painful, irritating job it was. Never again!! Good video.
Awesome video! Thanks so much. I am mechanically inclined and have been for most of my life but have always been scared to mess with suspension lol I feel way better about rebuilding my CB750 SS forks now. Thanks again!!
Thankyou Very Much for this video~! I was having a time trying to remove the bottom seal and you gave me insight how to proceed. Thanks Again!
Hello, congratulations for these videos, they're great.
Well done mate, great vid, love the workmate, I have clamped my bike frame through the bashplate holes into the wood of the old faithful Black and Decker.
Great video. Thanks. Same everything on my 2017 showa inverted 41mm cartridge fork.
This video omits a very important step. Reassembly... you’ll have to have a bushing/seal driver. It is a device that fits around the fork stanchion tube, and drives the bushing back into the fork slider where it was. And then it will drive this new seal into the fork slider...If you do not have a seal driver tool, Many times you can just use the old seal to drive the new seal in .. you can make a bushing driver/seal driver out of PVC pipe. The longer the better because you can tap on the end of the PVC with a block of wood if the PVC piece you are using is longer than the stanchion tube.. you must be careful not to nick or scratch the area of the stanchion tube that the fork seals wipe during their stroke..
coat the seal with four oil so it will not run dry..
then when refilling the fork with fork oil, you can change the weight of the fork oil from the standard recommended weight, but you cannot put more fork oil in van is called for or you risk blowing fork seals.
When cleaning internal parts such as the fork cap that has an O-ring on it, be sure not to use mineral spirits , that will damage any rubber parts such as the O-ring at the top of the fork..heavier weight fork oil will give a softer ride..lighter oil for a firmer ride..You can also try different amounts of oil but do not exceed the maximum.
fork springs do you lose their stroke resistance over time. As they degrade, you really don’t notice that they have degraded as much as they have until you put new springs in. fork springs are not like fine wine, they don’t get better with age...
When doing a reassembly of the machine and installing the front wheel, make sure that you do not bind the forks by tightening pinch clamp first. Always tighten the nut on the end of the axle first, then compress the front forks a few times before finally tightening the pinch clamp on the axle. If you tighten the axle nut last, after the axle clamp/pinch Has been tightened, you will be binding the forks, and this will not allow the forks to slide up and down freely. Just think about it a little...
Awesome video and explaination dude, thank you :)
Concise, but highly informative.
Thanks for the incredibly helpful video mate :)
I couldn't figure out of the life of me why I couldn't get my fork tube out with the slide hammer method. Turns out I didn't loosen the allen bolt at the bottom (or even know it existed).
Thanks!! did my vfr400 (nc30 late type) with your help :)
GOOD QUALITY VIDEO AND ADVICE..!!!
Great video - thanks!
Thanks Mate, at least someone on utube knows what there doing.👍
Big Dog Motorcycles instructions state "use an impact to loosen the bottom bolt". I've done that, and it works great. There are very good reasons to do this.
thank you. working on my 05 ZZR600 fork seals and needed visual aid getting that darn dampening bolt out. Of course I took the top cap off and drained out all the oil out and removed the spacer and spring and found the dampener bolt should have been loosened already. Now just need to find a suitable clamp.
Love these guys videos.
I actually have been to their site and now own a full set of their bike dvds.
Thanks guy ( er if you ever need a dirty bike to clean or work on I can help you out lol)
Oh and just to clarify the accent is I believe "Southern Jessie" ;-)
Very well composed mate! Great job of explaining. You are the "Bear Gryls" of motorcycle fork repair!!
Awesome! Makes the job much easier now :-)
Great video, a lot of help. Thank you. A+++.
Excellent level of details for DIYers to be familiar to do a thorough job. Cheers from across the Atlantic!!! Thank you
I'm splitting a 2002 R6 set of forks & wanted to do some revision. Thank You..
Very good and descriptive video.
Very cool! Thanks! 👍
Great job. Thanks
Well done!
good for you you are learning👍👍🙂
Cheers matey, I'm from Kendal, home of the Mint Cake.
Thak you sir, its very useful for me..
Thanks for those kind words matey, I'll take the 'Southern Jessie' as a compliment. I am infact a Northerner, born and bred. I've just worked hard on not developing the accent! Even though regional accents are very trendy at the moment.
Cheers cock (that's a northern term of endearment btw)
Nick Hine
Hi
I will be dismantling forks in my 2001 Honda vfr800 due to a concerning mechanical crunch like feel from the right fork upon compression. My question is, would my forks be of the same design/construction as those of a Fireblade shown in this video?
thanks
what about the smaller dampener seals?
my cb250 has no bottom bush, I've done one fork using a slide hammer, all back together and complete, but I cannot release the oil seal from the second fork it's now bent out, I can't get behind the top bush with the slide hammer, and cutting the seal out would probably score the fork leg and render it knackered, any ideas?
Did you separate the tube from the lower fork housing? How would this be done? The lower 10mm alen key removed and there is a side pin/set screw? Will the housing need to be heated? Time 2:02 in the video.
Nice video. That Fireblade looks like a cbr900 correct? I am doing this currently on my 929 Fireblade. 5:10 Nice! I needed to see how this is done. I'll be replacing bushings as well. I imagine reassembly and new fork seal installation involves a metal pipe slid over and pressing/hammering the new seal into its seat? Thanks.
Nice. Thanks
You should slightly loosen the top cap while the fork is still held tight in the triple trees (it's not as easy as i looks here)
Well explained.
i just changed my xr125 honda 2012 front fork oil. 170cc/ml, this is what i used can u plz conform for me if that is correct
Is their a second part to this? I cant find it....!
Brilliant clip. Will chop the ball off an allen and attack NC30 forks now.
I bought new fork seals and fork oil for my bike. I told the guy at the garage that I'd fit it myself. I came here for advice. But it looks even more complicated than I'd imagined. :-(
What oil do you use
What bike did it come off of? Im getting ready to redo my forks on 1995 zx900!
Very good, i like
so how you bleed the fork oil
This looked easy, my Yamaha XJ600 1997 bike needed a special Yamaha Tool, cost was £75, to undo the bottom bolt, otherwise it was impossible, as the Damper section just spins around. I used an extended Allen socket, I used an Extended bender bar, I used a drill on a fast speed with an Allen socket to undo the bottom bolt which hadn't been Locktited before, and never will be, no need.
please help. drivenandridden please could you tell me how much oil you put it?
I have also one cbr 900 rr 90 and have read online that takes 540cc of oil, but I've only taken when removing them is this normal 300cc ??
Thank you.
Any videos to remove the forks?
where is the reassembling video?
Watch the video backwards
Oh, thank you for your Gide but how to replace it all?)
The damper rod bolt just keeps spinning... any ideas?
i love me some bottom bush!
u rock
Shouldn't there be a part 2 of this clip?
god i wish there were videos in depth for suzuki gs 650 gt's
what if lower screw does not unscrew?
+Morocco is the best If it does not unscrew your forks are basically junk. I've occasionally seen them get seized and not come out or strip out, this means you cannot separate the fork. The only way to replace fork seals when this happens is pulling a seal with a seal puller from the top which can damage and mar up the fork leg. I had this happen with one of my bikes and it was a nightmare replacing seals. Also means you can't replace bushings which can be a problem later on down the road. The best way to remove them is with an alan key socket that is very long which can be hard to find. A quick snap on a socket wrench should remove it, if not you could always try an impact driver attached to the alan key socket but you risk stripping out the bolt. Thread removers usually can't remove this and heating the fork is probably a bad idea.
Wheres the part on replacing the seal and rebuilding and filling with oil
wow very very good
you do your own work mami?
I've replaced hundreds of fork seals and didn't even take them apart. Off the bike yes but not apart. Just have to be careful and know what you're doing.
I can also attest to the snap ring being a bastard. Water got past the dust seal and corroded the ring. Came out in 3 pieces.
my favourite bit is 5:00 because im a fan of slide hammers :)
How much oil goes into the fork of a 1988 Honda Shadow 800VT?
If you can't find a paper copy manual, worth having a dig around the internet - if you're lucky, you'll find a download option. Always worth trying a owners' group forum, as someone almost always puts some links up for 'manual pages'
Can you remove just the bottom damper bolt to drain the oil??
It wouldn't be so easy to put the oil back in though.
hahahhahaha
thats quite genious, I must say
So I'm currently doing my forks but the bottom bolt on the forks just keep spinning do you have any ideas on what to do?
Did you ever solve this? Having the same issue
+Cody Long Compressing the fork leg to give more pressure downwards can help stop it from spinning. This is no easy task as you have to still have access to the bottom bolt. When I had this happen I clamped it in a vise at an angle and had an assistant compress the leg while I tried turning the bolt. Try using an alan head key extension on an impact driver.
+Cody Long Even better way, put the fork back into the bike and tighten the pinch bolts. Compress the fork with one hand and try to loosen the bolt with an impact with the other.
Thanks man. If I remember correctly I used a impact. It's been a year so I don't fully remember. Thanks for the reply.
i wish i seen this before i changed the fork seals on my sv1000s
Hi matey
I'd love to make many more, just need a rich benefactor to help fund them!
That said we are just about to film some more for EBC and some for our own channel.
Cheers
Nick Hine
and if you turn the damper rod nut but it just spins inside. ya lets not even mention it
@2:30.....watch out when removing the fork cap, as I do it at eye level w/o safety glasses on...
Saftey glasses mate?
Don't lose the washer that's under the bottom bolt !
Great video! Like xfoolxproofx i am mechanically minded but have been a bit unsure about my forks, this has helped alot. i only need to change my dust seals and i'm assuming from this vid i can do this without opening/draining my forks Thanks
anthonio cesoro watching this
more cb400sf
lol...british people r funny talkers
very vague man
That's because he's an English toss-pot, oh hang on it's me......oh cock!!
ugh iconoclasta fzizhxoxmfxoxc
then you likely find a lot of people in real life annoying
Can't see with all that squiggly writing in the way!!!!