Why would Honda (global manufacturer with top mechanical engineers and masses of research and development) put a 15 tooth sprocket and ordinary people believe that a 14 tooth sprocket would be better? So you gained a little bit more acceleration; no gain in top speed (expected). But your fuel consumption, top end will be poorer, your speedo is out, your ABS is no longer synchronised. Is it really worth doing?
More well rounded for locales that have hills, as to not bounce off the rev limiter when descending them? Remember, I’m in Florida with no hills at all, riding most dirt. The 14T helps me pull more acceleration, which improves my riding experience. Other riding experiences might vary and suit the 15T better. Honda chose the 15T as the best “all-around” choice
Really like the nice close shots while you're working on the bike. Have my sprocket in a box in the garage, waiting for it to warm up a bit and going to do the same. Thanks for the upload!
Performance upgrades on a monkey? I think these little buggers are perfect right out of the box. If anything maybe some appearance mods, but performance mods seem silly to me. Either way if it makes you happy enjoy it.
Thanks for the honest, but non-inflammatory feedback. I don’t get that too often! I’m not expecting huge performance gains, just have fun tinkering and personalizing really
John5XR I want to make a public apology, I went with this mod and I can honestly say it’s the best $10 bucks I’ve spent yet on the monkey and thanks to your video the installation was a breeze.
I really can say that 36 rear sprocket is a lot better than changing the front one. It´s a few bucks more expensive, but the bike doesn´t get that much revvie without going anywhere.
@Baldi Locks thanks for that, sometimes you just gotta experiment! I have fun with it and like trying different things on the bike myself. I loved how it was from the factory too, but I’m a tinkerer/modder at heart as well
Hello John, thank you for all your Honda mini bike videos! I live in Europe and ride the new Honda Dax ST 125, pretty much same engine as your monkey, and the Dax also only has 4 gears, but with a semi automatic rotary clutch (which I love!) - I will change my front sprocket to a 14 tooth - because my theory is that in a head wind and going uphill the bike will more easily reach top speed and maintain speed.. I think that riding in conditions where theres no head wind and on a straingt road, or downhill theres no problem with the 15 tooth sprocket, but whenever theres a strong headwind or going uphill the bike needs to be able to pull more revs faster and easier than with the 15 tooth. So I am doing the upgrade.
You are 100% right! Just did this (swapping to 14t per your suggestion) to my 2019 at 503 miles while adjusting the chain and I can't believe the difference down low creeping and extra zippiness. Tomorrow I try it out on the hills and sandy trails. I'm in south Jersey but the terrain is almost identical to your area of Florida. I still have the 37t rear sprocket and the chain that you recommended but I'm gonna give it 500 more miles before I swap any of that Still on stock tires but I've added pre-load adjustment sleeves from a 1985 Kawasaki 454 LTD. Gonna test them out too and if I have to I can always change out to the springs from the 454. They're the same size but with thicker coils and more of them.
Hi John, since the speedometer is connected to the engine and not the front wheel, I'm thinking the you can't get a "reliable" readout opposed to if it was measured by actual circumference contact. What is your take on this?
I agree that the speedo is working off engine rpm and is comparing it with the wheel speed sensor for the abs, so we get both an abs light (disables the abs as well) and a disparity in readout speed. The cure is a SpeedoDRD speedometer correction harness from 12 o’clock labs, which I’ll install in the near future
i want to know how it is off road.... can you climb big hills in the woods? As a road bike, it's cute i guess, but the little wheels and short length make it less stable than a regular size bike... but if it is a blast in the trails, then Maybe it's a great bike.
it's ok off road for what it is, and cannot really be compared to anything that's designed specifically for off road use, like a dirt bike or even TW200, as it's not meant for that. On the street, it's phenomenal, and off road it's "do-able". You'll be surprised how well it can go off road, but if pushed over stuff that's too rough, you'll find its limits quickly. Climbing hills is tough, the 125cc just doesn't have the torque and you have to clutch it pretty good to do it. You'd enjoy my Grom video where I push the limits of off roading on a very similar bike: ruclips.net/video/OlFTbepiuWQ/видео.html
Search million dollar bogan channel on RUclips, he's doing a series of monkey bike vlogs riding it from one side of Australia to the other. He has this smaller sprocket installed and gives the monkey bike hell off road.
Hi John. I used a wrasping bit and honed it until it would push on to correct part of shaft.ill do the same to the 13 if I find myself in more trails.thanks for your help.mike z.
Rubber Insulator is to cut down on chain/sprocket mesh noise. Nice touch with the case saver "half moon", probably most bikes have it but I never noticed before(I hate drive chain systems and try to avoid working on it at ALL costs). Personally I would leave the stock sprocket alone and optimize the engine's intake and exhaust paths followed by a custom fuel map to accommodate for the new changes.
Haha, I have so many more videos queued up that I haven’t edited yet, and still some more waiting to be installed! But yeah, one day I will run out. I have a plan involving the factory manual though 🙂
He John, Great video, already got a 14 front bought but not installed, would you recommend it with a full Akrapovic exhaust, Mtake, bazzaz and other camshaft, in a flat country like the Netherlands....
Thanks Jan! Absolutely! It’s such an easy and cheap mod, it’s worth a try. If it doesn’t help, just swap it back! Basically, if you’re wanting more low to mid speed gains, the smaller sprocket will do that. If you want high speed gains, a bigger sprocket will do that.
Hi Guys I think the bigger sprocket (higher speed) and smaller sprocket (lower speed)--for front only, is incorrect. That formula works for bigger engines (generally speaking). But Mr. John5XR, you proved it yourself; going lower in the front actually gave you 20 mph gain on top end. A golden formula that cbr125 users have been doing is -1front/+2 rear. Many guys have reported a noticeable amount of low end torque. Only a handful, gained higher top end. I would suggest removal of the emissions equipment, if there’s a way to bypass it; use a 24mm flatslide carb Kit (ebay or Amazon.com $70) with open(mushroom type) air filter; -1/+2 $40 sprockets (may require bigger chain), and z40 cam upgrade ($35). For about $150-$160 usd you can bolt on a noticeable increase in power/performance!!! In addition, Port & Polish head (2 hp-$225) Hi-compression piston (1 hp-$60). Or lose the hi-compression piston & do Sigma 6 Nitros kit (4 temp hp-$60) must re-purchase the gas. Check dirt bike/pit bike forums!!!! Safe riding 😇
Removing a link is a bigger job than adjusting, and I’d probably still have to adjust. Also, I don’t think I needed that much take-up and didn’t wanna be too tight
Good video content. One tip...check your audio levels and do some leveling between your intro music and your spoken word content...save the ears of those that are wearing headphones :)
Thanks! Is it too loud? I edit with decent headphones and try to blend it as best as I can to my ears, but it might be different with ear pods. I’ll consider it on the next one, thanks for the tip!
@@John5XR I had to raise the volume to hear your voice, after lowering the volume on the music at the beginning. I've seen this on many channels. Its probably due to the high input gain on the music tracks by default? Not sure... Keep the content flowing man!
The ABS is connected to the ECU and measures both speed and engine RPM to see if the wheel is slipping or locking up. When you change the gearing the ABS can get confused. Here in Europe ABS on motorcycles in mandatory since 2016 and changing gearing on an ABS bike is a known problem. If you go to far from stock the ABS can react dangerously on some bikes. On a monkey i didn’t heard of dangerous situations with a 14T but the warning light will blink on occasion. There is a Swedish Guy, Gas-o-Loon who als made a few good vids about modding a Monkey.
From Ducati: Thank you for contacting Ducati North America. The ABS system uses both speed and RPM in its computations, two things directly affected by changes made to the gearing ratio. The ECU that governs the ABS system is programmed to work with the stock gearing on the bike only. We hope this provides you with the information you were after.
I carried out gearing changes when racing for different tracks and would recommend changing the rear sprocket. Reducing the front brings the chain down on the chain wear strip which if not checked could see the chain rubbing the swing arm. Go 2 or 3 up on the rear. It does bring the rear wheel forward which can be cured with a longer chain. The engine power and torque remain the same, what you get is more thrust. More acceleration at the expense of top end. Is there any need to Rev out to the limiter? Peak is before the limiter so all you end up doing is over revving with no gain.
Good info. I have since played with the rear gearing and am currently at a 36T rear. I’ll be going to a 37 as I like the 14/37 combo on my Grom, but will try the 15/37 also
@@John5XR if you increase the front tooth number you will effectively cancel out the rear gearing change. In rough terms going up 3 at the rear is equivalent of going down one on the front.
I really don't like all the plastic look, but I love how quiet the stock exhaust is. I cut across the sidewalk today and some old lady smiled at me- I don't want to lose that! Cheers
I did consider it, but I don’t want to lose my low-end torque. I haven’t gotten confirmation of any cams that add to the low-end of the rpm range, they’re all designed for top-end, and being I ride this slow/off road a lot, I decided top-speed is probably not the direction I should go
Hi john.just got my jtf249.14 front sprocket and the not go far enough back on shaft.seller said that fits grom.aint that a bummer.i want that 14 sprocket.
I thought about it after reading this, and hope the GPS is wrong, cause I want it to be faster! I’ve always been impressed by the Waze app mph readings in my car though, so I think it’d work just the same on a bike? I’d like to test it with something else though. Any ideas?
Hi John I was very interested in your observations after fitting the dhm high comp piston I've just fitted one, I have yoshi>>chimera intake >>tbcam>>15tooth front >>CJ flashed ECU >>and standard tyres >>30 MILES on a full tank of premium ⛽ petrol the gauge doesn't seem to have moved on side stand or upright tickover is very smooth BUT THE BIKE FEELS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT I don't know why ?? I'm going to give it a.few more miles before pushing it hard , I'll let you know the results. Keep up the videos stay safe regards Dave 🇬🇧 UK
Thanks for the feedback David, in what way do you find the bike feels different? Faster, slower, more low end power, higher top speed? I am interested to hear others results and thoughts
@@John5XR Hi john I get the feeling it's not as nippy but to be fair it's early days only 30 miles maybe ECU needs more time to initialise through different throttle openings, although I'm using premium fuel I'm going to check the UK octane rating, maybe its to low for the higher compression (IVE JUST ORDERED OCTANE BOOST TO TRY) ill let you know over how it go's in the next few weeks of riding thanks for getting back regards David UK
@@John5XR Hi john yes I did no problems there , although I love the monkey I do miss the power of my Kawasaki zzr 1400, and probably a little bit impatient to see quick power improvements, I'm sure things will improve the more its rode. regards Dave UK
Well the 4th gear of the monkey is terribly high and the engine can’t really make good use of it. It’s almost like an overdrive really. Even with the mods, it seems I can’t get much more top speed, but the power definitely increases, however it’s not really felt in 4th
Hi john.this is mike again.when you said you had to work on getting the new sprocket on.what did you do exactly to persuade on?I'm gona try to get my 14 on again today. I also just got a 13 tooth today and I'll see if that goes on shaft any easier.any tips you did what greatly be appreciated. Thanks mike
Is it safe to ride the monkey on long rides (50 miles or longer) with the RPM's so high? Do you think that will damage the motor? I had the 14t sprocket on a long ride recently and I hated hearing that thing scream the whole way. I liked having the 4th gear (overdrive) in the original sprocket. Should I put the original back on?
I take mine on long rides frequently ; 100 miles , typically full pegged throttle the whole time with no issues . It’s a Honda , pretty much bullet proof 👍🏼
Changing my sprocket threw a check engine light on my non-abs. Weird right? If you go with a cam, fueling solution, Mtake, and full exhaust, the stock gearing is better. I was having issues topping out with a 14T front sprocket.
I think the CEL comes on very easy on these bikes. It came on after the Bazzaz install, but I know the air/fuel is correct and even richer than the factory setting, so that won’t hurt anything. I cannot top out 4th even with my mods, so that’s probably your cam
Hi john.chain is off.i have 13 and the 14 tooth sprockets.14 tooth sprocket slides fine to the groove where locking washer goes.but I cant sprocket to slide past that.13 tooth doesn't even that far.did you have to tap with hammer..?sorry for bugging you.mike z
I’ll have to review the repair manual, I can’t visualize it in my head. Maybe you can film the issue and make a private RUclips video, then share that link with me? My email is on my about me page
Yes, it will flash as it’s seeing a disparity between the output shaft speed and front wheel speed. The only side effect might be the error disable of the abs system
@@John5XR how do you fix that? I’m hearing something about a Speedo Healer but I’m uneasy about doing something to the electrical system. Does it cause the ABS system to fail or just the light to come on?
The Speedo healer will alter the signal from the output shaft to the ecu, and it will fix it as the ecu is seeing a corrected signal and doesn’t know any different. I’m not 100% sure if the abs disables or the light just flashes, but for most riders it’s not an issue. I’ve only had my abs activate on me once, and it was on a gravel road where my kid yanked the front brake
@@John5XR so in your opinion can I do without the speedo healer and reset the light or something? Would any of this void the warranty? Also, I am putting a Yoshimura Exhaust on. I can do that without it messing anything up right?
It's quicker but it loses top end a smaller back sprocket will give you more top end more speed in the end smaller front pocket gives you more speed in the beginning
Shouldn’t you be putting the ruler at the middle, where there is the most play? And not moving it to a convenient even number location? You’ll get less play as you move to the end.
You would think so, but the Monkey engine isn’t powerful enough to top out the stock gearing, so the 14 allows the engine to pull the bike easier and in some cases, achieve a higher top speed than the stock 15T
Now you will lower your top speed. This bike is not about acceleration, if you want acceleration, buy a 600 cc sport bike. These bikes are best to keep them at factory settings. You kids think you know more than the engineers who designed these bikes, or you want to feel you have made your bike much better now by doing the MMMOD.
I couldn’t disagree more with you stating these bikes are about top speed! These bikes are for cruising the neighborhood (or racetrack paddock in my case), mobbing around the yard, busting up a trail or dirt road, then going to the corner store to buy beer. If you wanna commute or think your gonna hang on any road that’s 55mph+ on a Monkey or Grom, then that’s when you need to think about a bigger bike!
nspacetime I guess I rained on your parade kid, but take my advice, the engineers who design these things know a lot more than you, that is why if you modify them or as you kiddies say you MOD them, some insurance companies will not insure you. If you want to feel good as if you have done something, go wash and wax the bike and feel good.
I wish I could consider myself a “kid”, but at 37 with two real kids, I use my bikes as ways to have fun with my kids, and as a hobby of my own. I have the bikes you don’t modify in my collection, including a 70’ Honda CT-70, 66’ Honda CA-95 Benly, 84’ Honda ATC70, etc... The 19’ Monkey is far from collectible at this point, and I save all of the stock parts in case it does become collectible. I consider working on my bike and trying to improve it fun. Some people consider keeping it stock, polishing it, and squirreling it away in a garage fun. I don’t care if that’s what you like, why do you? Your lesson is not learnt on me unfortunately
All of your answers (answer) are answered in the video you clearly didn’t watch. Thanks for the valuable contribution to the conversation as always Chuck!
Waste of money and time I feel. Everyone throwing $thousands into an already over priced minibike trying to make it run like a 400cc motorcycle. I'll keep mine stock and ride the Harley when I want power and speed.
Ain’t nobody in this shop trying to make this thing run like a 400cc pig! Ha! Nothing wrong with spending $8 on something that’ll make wheelies and trail hopping a little easier for those of us who don’t have a $30k motorcycle to achieve power and speed
Why would Honda (global manufacturer with top mechanical engineers and masses of research and development) put a 15 tooth sprocket and ordinary people believe that a 14 tooth sprocket would be better?
So you gained a little bit more acceleration; no gain in top speed (expected).
But your fuel consumption, top end will be poorer, your speedo is out, your ABS is no longer synchronised.
Is it really worth doing?
More well rounded for locales that have hills, as to not bounce off the rev limiter when descending them? Remember, I’m in Florida with no hills at all, riding most dirt. The 14T helps me pull more acceleration, which improves my riding experience. Other riding experiences might vary and suit the 15T better. Honda chose the 15T as the best “all-around” choice
Please do! Lol
Really like the nice close shots while you're working on the bike. Have my sprocket in a box in the garage, waiting for it to warm up a bit and going to do the same. Thanks for the upload!
Thanks!! The sprocket is a great upgrade
Performance upgrades on a monkey? I think these little buggers are perfect right out of the box. If anything maybe some appearance mods, but performance mods seem silly to me. Either way if it makes you happy enjoy it.
Thanks for the honest, but non-inflammatory feedback. I don’t get that too often! I’m not expecting huge performance gains, just have fun tinkering and personalizing really
John5XR I want to make a public apology, I went with this mod and I can honestly say it’s the best $10 bucks I’ve spent yet on the monkey and thanks to your video the installation was a breeze.
I really can say that 36 rear sprocket is a lot better than changing the front one. It´s a few bucks more expensive, but the bike doesn´t get that much revvie without going anywhere.
@Baldi Locks thanks for that, sometimes you just gotta experiment! I have fun with it and like trying different things on the bike myself. I loved how it was from the factory too, but I’m a tinkerer/modder at heart as well
BTW Monkey 2022 already have a 14T sproket
hell yeah and 5 speed
Hello John, thank you for all your Honda mini bike videos! I live in Europe and ride the new Honda Dax ST 125, pretty much same engine as your monkey, and the Dax also only has 4 gears, but with a semi automatic rotary clutch (which I love!) - I will change my front sprocket to a 14 tooth - because my theory is that in a head wind and going uphill the bike will more easily reach top speed and maintain speed.. I think that riding in conditions where theres no head wind and on a straingt road, or downhill theres no problem with the 15 tooth sprocket, but whenever theres a strong headwind or going uphill the bike needs to be able to pull more revs faster and easier than with the 15 tooth. So I am doing the upgrade.
You are 100% right!
Just did this (swapping to 14t per your suggestion) to my 2019 at 503 miles while adjusting the chain and I can't believe the difference down low creeping and extra zippiness. Tomorrow I try it out on the hills and sandy trails. I'm in south Jersey but the terrain is almost identical to your area of Florida. I still have the 37t rear sprocket and the chain that you recommended but I'm gonna give it 500 more miles before I swap any of that
Still on stock tires but I've added pre-load adjustment sleeves from a 1985 Kawasaki 454 LTD. Gonna test them out too and if I have to I can always change out to the springs from the 454. They're the same size but with thicker coils and more of them.
hehe I did the same back when I was 16, change the gear ratio, it is a fine tune to get it right, but soo much fun when you get it right :D
You want more top speed good bigger more acceleration go small in the front its the opposite for the rear
I would put lock tide on every bolt, I just changed from a 14T to a 17T Now I have a longer 1st , before my 1st gear needed to b shifted at 4 mph
Good explanation of the procedures
This chain look very loose even after setting-up and dry. 35mm of both directions looks different.
Hi John,
since the speedometer is connected to the engine and not the front wheel, I'm thinking the you can't get a "reliable" readout opposed to if it was measured by actual circumference contact.
What is your take on this?
I agree that the speedo is working off engine rpm and is comparing it with the wheel speed sensor for the abs, so we get both an abs light (disables the abs as well) and a disparity in readout speed. The cure is a SpeedoDRD speedometer correction harness from 12 o’clock labs, which I’ll install in the near future
Speedo connection to the engine how in the he'll is supposed to work?
Top speed wil go down.
Guess you don't know how motors work when the the valves float then you lose power that is a mechanical limitation
i want to know how it is off road.... can you climb big hills in the woods? As a road bike, it's cute i guess, but the little wheels and short length make it less stable than a regular size bike... but if it is a blast in the trails, then Maybe it's a great bike.
it's ok off road for what it is, and cannot really be compared to anything that's designed specifically for off road use, like a dirt bike or even TW200, as it's not meant for that. On the street, it's phenomenal, and off road it's "do-able". You'll be surprised how well it can go off road, but if pushed over stuff that's too rough, you'll find its limits quickly. Climbing hills is tough, the 125cc just doesn't have the torque and you have to clutch it pretty good to do it. You'd enjoy my Grom video where I push the limits of off roading on a very similar bike: ruclips.net/video/OlFTbepiuWQ/видео.html
Search million dollar bogan channel on RUclips, he's doing a series of monkey bike vlogs riding it from one side of Australia to the other. He has this smaller sprocket installed and gives the monkey bike hell off road.
Hi John. I used a wrasping bit and honed it until it would push on to correct part of shaft.ill do the same to the 13 if I find myself in more trails.thanks for your help.mike z.
Love the Monkey 🐒
Thanks for the informative video :)
My ‘21 Red Monkey is bone stock and I love it
Rubber Insulator is to cut down on chain/sprocket mesh noise. Nice touch with the case saver "half moon", probably most bikes have it but I never noticed before(I hate drive chain systems and try to avoid working on it at ALL costs).
Personally I would leave the stock sprocket alone and optimize the engine's intake and exhaust paths followed by a custom fuel map to accommodate for the new changes.
Another Great "How To' Video. Pretty soon you're going to run out of Monkey Mods.
Haha, I have so many more videos queued up that I haven’t edited yet, and still some more waiting to be installed! But yeah, one day I will run out. I have a plan involving the factory manual though 🙂
Changing the front sprocket screws up your speedo meter by about 2 mph
Maybe more, but you can correct it with the 12 o’clock labs SpeedoDRD. I have a video about installing one on the Monkey
FYI, there's not room for a socket Allen wrench on that bottom bolt. A T-handle works best.
He John, Great video, already got a 14 front bought but not installed, would you recommend it with a full Akrapovic exhaust, Mtake, bazzaz and other camshaft, in a flat country like the Netherlands....
Thanks Jan! Absolutely! It’s such an easy and cheap mod, it’s worth a try. If it doesn’t help, just swap it back! Basically, if you’re wanting more low to mid speed gains, the smaller sprocket will do that. If you want high speed gains, a bigger sprocket will do that.
Hi Guys
I think the bigger sprocket (higher speed) and smaller sprocket (lower speed)--for front only, is incorrect. That formula works for bigger engines (generally speaking). But Mr. John5XR, you proved it yourself; going lower in the front actually gave you 20 mph gain on top end. A golden formula that cbr125 users have been doing is -1front/+2 rear. Many guys have reported a noticeable amount of low end torque. Only a handful, gained higher top end. I would suggest removal of the emissions equipment, if there’s a way to bypass it; use a 24mm flatslide carb Kit (ebay or Amazon.com $70) with open(mushroom type) air filter; -1/+2 $40 sprockets (may require bigger chain), and z40 cam upgrade ($35). For about $150-$160 usd you can bolt on a noticeable increase in power/performance!!! In addition, Port & Polish head (2 hp-$225)
Hi-compression piston (1 hp-$60). Or lose the hi-compression piston & do Sigma 6 Nitros kit (4 temp hp-$60) must re-purchase the gas.
Check dirt bike/pit bike forums!!!! Safe riding 😇
Why not remove one link with a chain break??? Just asking.
Removing a link is a bigger job than adjusting, and I’d probably still have to adjust. Also, I don’t think I needed that much take-up and didn’t wanna be too tight
Yeah I noticed your check engine light was on.
Yeah, that came on after the Bazzaz. Probably from disconnecting the oxygen sensor.
John5XR gotcha
Good video content. One tip...check your audio levels and do some leveling between your intro music and your spoken word content...save the ears of those that are wearing headphones :)
Thanks! Is it too loud? I edit with decent headphones and try to blend it as best as I can to my ears, but it might be different with ear pods. I’ll consider it on the next one, thanks for the tip!
@@John5XR I had to raise the volume to hear your voice, after lowering the volume on the music at the beginning. I've seen this on many channels. Its probably due to the high input gain on the music tracks by default? Not sure... Keep the content flowing man!
Please use Loctite on the sprocket bolts....
They didn’t feel loctited on the way out, but good idea
@@John5XR only a hint ;) you are right they are not loctited from factory but i saw a few come loose in my bike mechanic career
You notice he never torque the bolts on the sprocket,
Spoken like a Suzuki DR owner lol
@@ahmedmarei971 😂😂🙌👍🏻
Good vid. Be aware if you have the ABS model the ABS error light will blink if you change the sprocket to non stock specs.
Thanks! Is that right?! I do have an abs, I’ll take note of it next time I ride 👍
The ABS is connected to the ECU and measures both speed and engine RPM to see if the wheel is slipping or locking up. When you change the gearing the ABS can get confused. Here in Europe ABS on motorcycles in mandatory since 2016 and changing gearing on an ABS bike is a known problem. If you go to far from stock the ABS can react dangerously on some bikes. On a monkey i didn’t heard of dangerous situations with a 14T but the warning light will blink on occasion. There is a Swedish Guy, Gas-o-Loon who als made a few good vids about modding a Monkey.
I swapped mine out with a 14t, the ABS light did not turn on..?
I haven’t done it myself but i’ve read on fora and comment sections people are having this issue with the monkey and MSX grom.
From Ducati: Thank you for contacting Ducati North America.
The ABS system uses both speed and RPM in its computations, two things directly affected by changes made to the gearing ratio. The ECU that governs the ABS system is programmed to work with the stock gearing on the bike only.
We hope this provides you with the information you were after.
I wonder why they leave the chain so loose? All my other bikes are 1/2"-3/4" free play. That seems like an awful lot of free play on the Monkey.
What's the front sprocket torque. Help! Hurry.
9 ft/lbs for the two plate bolts
I carried out gearing changes when racing for different tracks and would recommend changing the rear sprocket. Reducing the front brings the chain down on the chain wear strip which if not checked could see the chain rubbing the swing arm.
Go 2 or 3 up on the rear. It does bring the rear wheel forward which can be cured with a longer chain.
The engine power and torque remain the same, what you get is more thrust. More acceleration at the expense of top end.
Is there any need to Rev out to the limiter? Peak is before the limiter so all you end up doing is over revving with no gain.
Good info. I have since played with the rear gearing and am currently at a 36T rear. I’ll be going to a 37 as I like the 14/37 combo on my Grom, but will try the 15/37 also
@@John5XR if you increase the front tooth number you will effectively cancel out the rear gearing change.
In rough terms going up 3 at the rear is equivalent of going down one on the front.
What do you weigh? Im 280 and this will effect it all to.write mack thx
I own this bike, exhaust and air box removal , Ohlins rear suspension are a must !!!
I really don't like all the plastic look, but I love how quiet the stock exhaust is. I cut across the sidewalk today and some old lady smiled at me- I don't want to lose that! Cheers
Any plan on adding a new cam? From what I have seen on groms, that and a retune on your bazazz might give you some more top end.
I did consider it, but I don’t want to lose my low-end torque. I haven’t gotten confirmation of any cams that add to the low-end of the rpm range, they’re all designed for top-end, and being I ride this slow/off road a lot, I decided top-speed is probably not the direction I should go
A note that don't work,
That front sprocket wobbled after you tightened it up, is it supposed to do that?
Yes, it’s a floating design used now to be easier on chains
Hi john.just got my jtf249.14 front sprocket and the not go far enough back on shaft.seller said that fits grom.aint that a bummer.i want that 14 sprocket.
I want the 2021 Honda monkey because it’s the only black one. Would this be a good upgrade for that year?
I put a 16 front on mine for running in traffic with Little more top and lower rpm ,any thing I may need to know or I missed?
Do you like it? I plan to do the same on my Monkey.
Would this make the speedometer more inaccurate compared to the stock gearing? Is there a way to correct that?
Jorge Ortega
It will, going down will overstate mph and miles on the odometer
Yes. If you watch the end of the video where I ride it, I explain how it changes the reported speed
And yes, there are several ways to adjust it. The most popular is probably the 12 o’clock Labs SpeedoRD
Please take into consideration the lag time for a GPS satellite system vs actual instrument readings.
I thought about it after reading this, and hope the GPS is wrong, cause I want it to be faster! I’ve always been impressed by the Waze app mph readings in my car though, so I think it’d work just the same on a bike? I’d like to test it with something else though. Any ideas?
Hi John I was very interested in your observations after fitting the dhm high comp piston I've just fitted one, I have yoshi>>chimera intake >>tbcam>>15tooth front >>CJ flashed ECU >>and standard tyres >>30 MILES on a full tank of premium ⛽ petrol the gauge doesn't seem to have moved on side stand or upright tickover is very smooth BUT THE BIKE FEELS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT I don't know why ?? I'm going to give it a.few more miles before pushing it hard , I'll let you know the results. Keep up the videos stay safe regards Dave 🇬🇧 UK
Thanks for the feedback David, in what way do you find the bike feels different? Faster, slower, more low end power, higher top speed? I am interested to hear others results and thoughts
@@John5XR Hi john I get the feeling it's not as nippy but to be fair it's early days only 30 miles maybe ECU needs more time to initialise through different throttle openings, although I'm using premium fuel I'm going to check the UK octane rating, maybe its to low for the higher compression (IVE JUST ORDERED OCTANE BOOST TO TRY) ill let you know over how it go's in the next few weeks of riding thanks for getting back regards David UK
Did you do an ecu reset/initialization after the install?
@@John5XR Hi john yes I did no problems there , although I love the monkey I do miss the power of my Kawasaki zzr 1400, and probably a little bit impatient to see quick power improvements, I'm sure things will improve the more its rode. regards Dave UK
Well the 4th gear of the monkey is terribly high and the engine can’t really make good use of it. It’s almost like an overdrive really. Even with the mods, it seems I can’t get much more top speed, but the power definitely increases, however it’s not really felt in 4th
Hi john.this is mike again.when you said you had to work on getting the new sprocket on.what did you do exactly to persuade on?I'm gona try to get my 14 on again today. I also just got a 13 tooth today and I'll see if that goes on shaft any easier.any tips you did what greatly be appreciated. Thanks mike
Hi Mike. Did you loosen the chain up? That might make it easier
Is it safe to ride the monkey on long rides (50 miles or longer) with the RPM's so high? Do you think that will damage the motor? I had the 14t sprocket on a long ride recently and I hated hearing that thing scream the whole way. I liked having the 4th gear (overdrive) in the original sprocket. Should I put the original back on?
I take mine on long rides frequently ; 100 miles , typically full pegged throttle the whole time with no issues . It’s a Honda , pretty much bullet proof 👍🏼
@@keystonedaytrip238 I appreciate your feedback! Thanks
It probably have you more low end power and acceleration but loss of top speed
Changing my sprocket threw a check engine light on my non-abs. Weird right? If you go with a cam, fueling solution, Mtake, and full exhaust, the stock gearing is better. I was having issues topping out with a 14T front sprocket.
I think the CEL comes on very easy on these bikes. It came on after the Bazzaz install, but I know the air/fuel is correct and even richer than the factory setting, so that won’t hurt anything. I cannot top out 4th even with my mods, so that’s probably your cam
John5XR it wasn’t til I added the mtake. I think the mtake pushed it to that point. I think the cam will get you there.
Subscribed
Changing the rear sprocket is like putting a smaller tire on faster acceleration
If u do a cam and intake and exhaust and tune. That would wake it up
Hi john.chain is off.i have 13 and the 14 tooth sprockets.14 tooth sprocket slides fine to the groove where locking washer goes.but I cant sprocket to slide past that.13 tooth doesn't even that far.did you have to tap with hammer..?sorry for bugging you.mike z
I’ll have to review the repair manual, I can’t visualize it in my head. Maybe you can film the issue and make a private RUclips video, then share that link with me? My email is on my about me page
Did you do a remap?
Yes, I run the Bazzaz Z-FI system for controlling fuel. I haven’t corrected the speedo yet though
It never made much sense to me to ask so much for this bike and have a cheap chain on it. 😐
Regular 420 chain (not 428)?
It is a regular 420
I wonder if I would gain top end because of my cam and tune. The cam killed low end and midrange but gives substantial power in the top end.
I also have intake, exhaust, oil spinner delete with the cam and tune.
that would definitely gain top end
Does changing to a 14T affect the ABS brakes or the ABS brake light?
Yes, it will flash as it’s seeing a disparity between the output shaft speed and front wheel speed. The only side effect might be the error disable of the abs system
@@John5XR how do you fix that? I’m hearing something about a Speedo Healer but I’m uneasy about doing something to the electrical system. Does it cause the ABS system to fail or just the light to come on?
The Speedo healer will alter the signal from the output shaft to the ecu, and it will fix it as the ecu is seeing a corrected signal and doesn’t know any different. I’m not 100% sure if the abs disables or the light just flashes, but for most riders it’s not an issue. I’ve only had my abs activate on me once, and it was on a gravel road where my kid yanked the front brake
@@John5XR so in your opinion can I do without the speedo healer and reset the light or something? Would any of this void the warranty? Also, I am putting a Yoshimura Exhaust on. I can do that without it messing anything up right?
what is the stock gearing? thanks for the video.
15/34 I believe. Thanks for watching!
John5XR thanks
What's the effect if 13T is being used?
It's quicker but it loses top end a smaller back sprocket will give you more top end more speed in the end smaller front pocket gives you more speed in the beginning
Looks like sprocket change keeps the ABS light on.
It does, but I’ve never installed a speedo healer like I should have
Shouldn’t you be putting the ruler at the middle, where there is the most play? And not moving it to a convenient even number location?
You’ll get less play as you move to the end.
probably, I got a chain checker tool since this though. Much easier
Smaller back sprocket will make u beat him but it looks like that's the smallest back sprocket you can get
Then you will need to change your ECU
Whats a ruler?
Measuring stick
I’m confused about the part number I seen for The Monkey, is it the JTF 249.14 or JTF 252.14?
I think I have a link in the description to the correct part on Amazon
@@John5XR appreciate it
you should have went bigger
Why would anybody change this sprocket ? The engineers have decided for a 15 .... so why change ????
Because it makes the bike go brrrrrrrrrrt
Its probably governed at 64-65 need ecu program
Lol, need that rolling start
Wont this hurt top end?
You would think so, but the Monkey engine isn’t powerful enough to top out the stock gearing, so the 14 allows the engine to pull the bike easier and in some cases, achieve a higher top speed than the stock 15T
Roads look bad, maybe South Carolina.
Good video! Subscribed! Cheers from Italy. I also have a monkey and do some todo videos if you want subscribe 😄😅
Thanks! I’ll have a look and subscribe back in return 👍
Its Posted 45....lol
Question is....WHY???? If you want speed you got the wrong bike....
What about if you want to change the speed characteristics of the bike you have without altering the engine?
Now you will lower your top speed. This bike is not about acceleration, if you want acceleration, buy a 600 cc sport bike. These bikes are best to keep them at factory settings. You kids think you know more than the engineers who designed these bikes, or you want to feel you have made your bike much better now by doing the MMMOD.
I couldn’t disagree more with you stating these bikes are about top speed! These bikes are for cruising the neighborhood (or racetrack paddock in my case), mobbing around the yard, busting up a trail or dirt road, then going to the corner store to buy beer. If you wanna commute or think your gonna hang on any road that’s 55mph+ on a Monkey or Grom, then that’s when you need to think about a bigger bike!
@ROB NAVAEI I’d be willing to bet you have little, to no clue what you’re even talking about.
nspacetime I guess I rained on your parade kid, but take my advice, the engineers who design these things know a lot more than you, that is why if you modify them or as you kiddies say you MOD them, some insurance companies will not insure you. If you want to feel good as if you have done something, go wash and wax the bike and feel good.
I wish I could consider myself a “kid”, but at 37 with two real kids, I use my bikes as ways to have fun with my kids, and as a hobby of my own. I have the bikes you don’t modify in my collection, including a 70’ Honda CT-70, 66’ Honda CA-95 Benly, 84’ Honda ATC70, etc... The 19’ Monkey is far from collectible at this point, and I save all of the stock parts in case it does become collectible. I consider working on my bike and trying to improve it fun. Some people consider keeping it stock, polishing it, and squirreling it away in a garage fun. I don’t care if that’s what you like, why do you? Your lesson is not learnt on me unfortunately
@@John5XR wow you have a honda CT-70? do you have a video of that? you got a nice collection of bikes.
Why?
All of your answers (answer) are answered in the video you clearly didn’t watch. Thanks for the valuable contribution to the conversation as always Chuck!
intro audio too loud, turned off immediately
sometimes you miss things in editing 🤷🏼♂️
Waste of money and time I feel.
Everyone throwing $thousands into an already over priced minibike trying to make it run like a 400cc motorcycle.
I'll keep mine stock and ride the Harley when I want power and speed.
Ain’t nobody in this shop trying to make this thing run like a 400cc pig! Ha! Nothing wrong with spending $8 on something that’ll make wheelies and trail hopping a little easier for those of us who don’t have a $30k motorcycle to achieve power and speed
just buy a faster bike
I’ve had them, this is more fun