@BuckGreywolfe slander is only applicable when what your saying isnt true. obviously his grievances are justifiable considering were watching the evidence.
I see the bike is a Micargi, which BikeBerry.com uses in their full bike kits so there is a possibility, but I'm not 100% positive. The bike in his video is a full suspension, and none of BB's current Micargi bike kits have suspension. I havent seen the Micargi brand on Gasbike.net and havent looked any further to see who else has that particular model.
I'm right in the middle of a similar project and feel your pain. Cheap parts, no instructions, incompatible pieces, on and on can go. Best advice I can give is have a friend who runs a custom fabrication shop or be ready to pay for additional modifications you will encounter. I'm just looking forward to riding my bike when it's finished. Electra Super deluxe cruiser with nexus rear hub and 49cc 4stroke motor.
One thing all these kits should do is drill a self tapping screw in to the frame through the chain tensioned clamp. It will keep it from vibrating loose and falling into the spokes.
This is for anyone watching or for Mr. Sinister- putting an engine on a cruiser style bike is playing Russian roulette with your life. One day you will need to stop NOW and you will not be able to. A coaster brake is for stopping a pedal bike going slow- NOT for someone going 20 or 30 MPH. If you are considering a kit, do yourself, and everyone involved in the hobby (who may have to deal with your splattered body in the headlines of a newspaper, or another law banning motor bikes) a favor and get a bike with at least 2 V brakes or discs. Mike
I have some good brakes but have to carry spare pads for emergency stops they're done after 1-2 hard stops. I road my bike 34 miles or more daily for two years
@@johnathanblevins8439 --- Router? ...or Rotor? . Good point, I think that's a good question 🤔 I don't this kit is adaptable to a bike with disc brakes.
This engine can go a couple of inches forward, giving you extra clearance on top. You could have fashioned the engine base and tilt it forward as well. For whatever reason, you fitted it with the base horizontal, hence a very tight fit.
@@CuddlyJon I love working on projects as much as the next guy but these retro-fits shouldn't be your transportation vehicle....better to ride them to the coffee-shop with friends on the weekends.....not as commuter to work and back.
@@readmore3634 after clocking 2,000 miles on my 2 stroke, I have to agree. I mean they can be somewhat reliable but there will be a fair amount of hiccups and maintenance compared to a nice reliable moped. I myself do prefer the styling though haha. Hope I see you out there one day, would definitely wave to you!
Nice bike. I like how it's a full suspension cruiser that doesn't ruin the cruiser look. I don't go near Chinese kits anymore though. I had a Grubee 4G on my cruiser but the transfer case broke on me after 100 miles. Now I have a bike with Honda engine & an American built kit.
Tim Yeakel I'll think about that. I've been getting around on a high quality American made friction drive bike with a Honda engine from Japan lately. Engine might not be American but at least in Japan quality comes first. I wish more bicycle engine kit companies would do what you do. I hate the china shit. They have no respect for quality.
Tim Yeakel My setup on my mountain bike is a rear mount friction drive built out of solid high tensile steel & made in Oklahoma USA by Staton Inc. & the engine is a Honda GX35 (35cc) that runs at 1.6 HP at 4500 RPM & it can clock 30mph easily & gets outstanding gas mileage. Most I've spent on gas is like $6 to $10 for a whole months worth of gas. It's the most reliable motorized bike I ever put together. Cant imagine ever going back to a Chinese kit. Only things I had to change were the clutch rotor & the rear tube after a bad flat. After getting motorcycle grade tire slime & some good tire liner I never had a flat since.
Joe there is a thing called a light weight highly durable metal called a hardened Billet Ingot 2100J Aluminum which is just fine for many bike parts hubs and sprockets and it cuts just like steel on my CNC... Maybe you prefer the extra weight? My bike weighs in with it's steel frame at 116Lbs... It's 40 Lbs more than I originally had anticipated when I constructed my bike. My Bike is an original U.S. made ROADMASTER (MOLLY CHROME FRAME) made before the CHINESE destroyed the bikes and the ROADMASTER name... If I were you I woulda bought a better bike than paid for and cut special pieces for that Wal_mart piece of shit bike... What y'all need is a better bike a real bike. Watch my videos if you got some brain matter that is still usable you all will get my message. By the way I make light I found my bicycle on a curb in the trash. No it wasn't in the condition it is now... I tend to favor American metals.. Try to get my mental message okay...
after figuring out how to use the Harbor Freight / Lifan / Duro 79-99cc engines in the correct mounting orientation with the cylinder forward I found that all these other bike engines are worthless to me. I have had them all. They are crap compared to the availability of better 2 to 3 horse small 4 stroke engines. My design is in the process of steps to make a kit for using off the shelf engines from Kawasaki, Honda, Harbor freight, and more on one mounting design. I will make a video eventually on the design when I get a bunch made to put up for sale.
Im sure you will. Btw I'm getting some plans drawn up for some products that i will be making soon that will be a huge success guaranteed i will keep you posted when i start the videos that i will make. You're high dude.
Over 49cc or 1 horse us illegal unless you Vin, and get insurance in Arizona. 19.9 mph max for free ride. Not allowed on shared paths illegal to be in sidewalk.
A wider bottom bracket crank axle is really cheap, they come in many many different lengths. Another problem is the suspension pulls and loosens the chain as you ride over uneven ground, acceleration will pull the chain towards the engine, slackening it, slowing down will cause the chain to be pulled tight. These kits need a rigid frame or a better design of suspension that allows the swing arm to rise and fall with an up and down motion rather than a back and forth motion. So frames will be better than others. For most kit's I've found the generic beach cruiser curved frame is a pretty good choice.
The reason you are having clearance issues is because you''re using a full suspension bike. These kits aren't designed for suspension frames. The crank arms are connected to the swing arm and the engine is mounted to the front half of the frame. They move and the dimensions for clearance change. The problem is your lack of knowledge not the kit.
Justin Bono I agree with you all the way. He keeps stating the kit is cheap.. hrum how much was the kit? Not more than $200 or so right. If you want better components spend the money then. You try that new engine on that bike.. you'll still have clearance issues.. and if you say cheap one more time.... omg your the tight ass who bought the parts... can't wait until that video of you riding that bike and the pedal falls off due to cheap owner grinding it down.
lmao I was watching this thinking the same thing when I saw the rear swing arm. Wrong frame for the kit. Are you sure you want to have 2 whipping chainsaws down there by your junk every time you ride down bumpy roads?
2014 I built same HS49cc engine + 18" beach cruiser frame etc. 44T rear gave it "legs", will try 48T next build. Had same trouble with an Ebay kit, moved engine all the way forward. Same crappy gear reduction drive (tiny chain inside). Beware of the soft OEM supplied 2 shoe clutch. I used tougher upgrade Clutch from thatsdax. Install a decent mtn bike style crank & bearings 10.5 - 11" wide. Beware of coaster brakes on a motorized bike! Use a double set of V brakes like found on BMX. A springer fork will save your molars. Long 44" to 46" wheelbase frames like Felt or Sikk ride better - give you room to work, to build and pedal. I like your vid = helpful.
I had one of these that I bought at a pawn shop. Had a 2 stroke on it. It ran and drove great the problem was the motor viberated so bad that when I made the 6mile trip to work my ass and lower back was on fire. I got rid of it. You get what you pay for.
The gear boxes on the two bikes, might have different ratios, which would account for the better low-end torque. The bike would have a lower top speed though.
I think you made that more haste than it had to be. I would of used the adjustable mounting slots on the base plate and store dedicated the output spigot on the reduction drive. only thing I can see bad about that kit is the seagull welding!
Allyy Kaayy My intention when I first started was to do that, but I'm kept pretty busy with my career right now so I decided not to do motorized bikes as a business since I didn't feel I could give my customers the service they deserve. Maybe I'll have more time in the future, but as of right now I just enjoy helping people the best I can with their builds.
When you use a paper clip to measure depth,allow for the fact that the tap that made the female threads started off tapered,so the machine threads will lock up as the 1st 4 or so threads are reached. I.E.,screw the bolt in and when it starts to drag,mark it w/tape.Then cut the distance between tape -at-block and the 1st washer you use PLUSa thread or two,to allow for lock washer squash,plus ,(I assume you are concerned w/exhaust)Allow for thickness of flange.USE 'EM ALL,BUT DON'T BOTTOM OUT!.
late 1950's/early 60's we bolted b&s motors on wood boards, attached them to the frame , with centrifical clutches,and a big pulley bolted to the back wheel. to line things up the engine had t be way off center making the rig tricky to balance. sometimes they ran, sometimes they didn't but when they did they ran like a bat out of hell.
I agree with Paul. You should've name names, but you should make another vlog on the other bike with the chrome rim. Compare the two different kits and bikes.
If you strip the block bosses, you can go a size higher and rethread them, if it's soft enough to strip its soft enough to thread! They give you a decent amount of metal to work with, but I'd go up a size at a time, they will strip again haha
Appreciate your video,checked,my port holes in aluminum block,sure enough,bolts supplied were to long.The mounting plate in my kit is not consistent.I have alot of spinal hardware,figured this would get me traversing RR tracks for my metal detector hobby.lol.Just taking bit longer than I had figured.I want it reliable,so taking my time.Know how it is,trying to get bye with limited funds to use.If one must fabricate mounts,best know from jump,so not trying to make bad method and parts work.I WISH MY KIT HAD THE MOUNT SYSTEM YOUR USING.I NOTICE FOLK JUST BOLTING ON,NO SPACERS.I want to trust,so opted for nylon locking nuts AND LOC -TITE,but adding spacers as well.I have decent shop here,but no welder either,so I'd be thinking it out to.One comment said to tip,but lubrication oil circulation would be effected with four stroke,understood why you avoided.Yes the parts ARE inconsistent from "there",and nice you risking hecklers to let others know not to rush.CUSTOM MEANS CUSTOM.Will admit,I could of easily used the long screws and ruined the ports,so thank you for posting.Wish you luck in solving.Cheers!!!
I love the look of the retro sprung forks but I love to be able to stop so was looking for a source for those old drum brakes that used to come on the Schwinn Crate bikes but they have gotten crazy expensive. So I built mine on a frame with discs. If I ever come across a good drum I will build a bike around it LOL.
So where did you buy the good one? How much was it and where do I get one? Why would you compare a good one to a bad one without telling us where to get the good one
Beautiful, but: Anyone in the EU or Britain should know that, whilst great fun, these can only be used on private land. They are not allowed on cycleways, as in the UK the only powered cycles we allow are electric bikes up to 250 Watts power, under our EAPC Regs, similar in all EU. You can ride them on the roads, but you must have a licence, you must register them, fit number plates, pay Vehicle Excise Duty (Road Tax), have insurance (difficult) and wear a helmet, just like a motorcycle
Did the kit come with the bike? Because if he got a random bike the sure a lot of stuff would not fit. Like his cranks and the motor mount. If you look on many websites, they have kits that come with the bikes. So these problems would most likely not occur on other bikes
Wow bud, I watched the first two minutes and pretty quickly figured out that your mechanical problem solving skills leave a little to be desired. Why in this world or any other would you move the engine up and grind off the crank when the obvious solution is to either get or fabricate a longer crank arm. Do you weld? Do you fabricate anything? Or do you just bolt on Chinese crap from some kit you ordered.
They look heavy. Good video. I took mine on the shoulder of the highway. A truck came from behind and the draft almost sucked me under semi wheels. Beware. Scary. Don't do it. Warn others. Not safe. Peace
How is the pedaling with the 4 stroke engine? Are there any drawbacks with engine on/off, can you pedal the bike just like you would if there were no engine? Thanks for the video 😊
Did you measure the width of your bikes bottom bracket axle without paddles? My point is that they aren't necessarily the same width. So changing the bottom bracket is a better fix and you could move the engine further down I guess
I've always used the HuaSheng 49cc 4-Stroke engines and had great luck with them. I've had the 4G, 5G & 7G. The 5G was absolute crap since they had the chain drive which was absolutely terrible in every way. I love the belt drives and have had great luck with those.
hi if you happen to strip out the threads you can all ways tap them out a little bigger and it you brake a motor stud flush withe the motor you can drill a 1/8 in hole about 1/4 of an inch down and find a Allen wrench and tap it in to the hole and turn it out without to much trouble
Got the original westernflyer buzz model from the 60s, just got the motor running, with the gas tank and everything it actually looks like an old motorcycle lol
Hello LeRoy! I don't remember off the top of head what length they were once I was finished. I took a paperclip and stuck it in the hole for the exhaust studs and then got my length that way. Then I cut the studs down and touched them up with a grinder so I wouldn't ruin the threads on the engine. It took me a couple times but it worked out fine that. Just don't over tighten, and use thread locker on them. Any other questions please let me know.
+Sinister Custom Cycles Adam people on here do and do not understand each application can be different from where the engine ends up in what position. I have had engines sit on such a cant on the frame they barely fit on the bike and I had to pull the exhaust studs and do exactly what you folks describe only I use a depth gauge I made from an old tire gauge my buddy gave me at the local Jack Williams store. Either way people think these engines will fit right on any bicycle. That's another fantasy especially if you deal with a bike with an octagonal oblonged frame size on the lower tube. I've used every tool from a grinder to a cutter to our CNC machine to open the front of the engine mount up so it fit respectable. That can also eliminate mounting clearance problems. Listen to my two cycle bikes run in my videos. They don't sound anything like a Dingle Berry.com engine.. And they don't fly apart either.
Tim Yeakel JusconquesthshkkajahjajsjdjdjjsxkxjsndndhsbhhgajahksdkhxusgenfdkdiebeuijisjdjjhjahaoshshjfajahqkshsbkahahsiajsgKjzksmslzyspsjahjzjf,lays lab is hand vs ms JJ jkxjx
Sinister Custom Cycles Is what you half to do before you tighten the bolts is move your pedal 360% make sure it clears every thin including keepin your exhaust on is what I usally do is mount the motor then take a screwdiver wedge it between the machine and the pedal that keeps the motor in place although you may half to toruge the right side more than the left to pull the motor over or vice versa another thing seen bike berry do it special order a pedal thats bent outwards giving one up to 4 " of play rather than 64th clearance.
Sinister Custom Cycles Yeah, Sinister Custom! Of ALL my 55 years of working, repairing, etc. different kinds of engines on different vehicles/cars/trucks/vans, etc, I HAVE NEVER, EVER COME ACROSSED THIS THING THEY CALL, "MB (motorized bike)". August 20, 2017, Wednesday, on my way back from Riverview, Florida, my muffler ACTUALLY, started breaking apart at the weld on top of exhaust pipe. I let it slide for a few more feet down the road & my muffler pipe breaks off more. So, instead of possible accident by running over my own exhaust muffler, & of course, I would've made fool out of myself instead of a monkey. So, I stopped & broke the rest of it off, but my main question is, WHAT causes it to do it the SECOND/2ND time in 2 days time, possibly, MORE times after this 2nd go around, BUT with a DIFFERENT muffler that I bought? ONLY MEEEE!!! ONLYMEEEE!! LOL! Sincerely, Will Smith
Agreed. Don't expect ANYTHING mechanical to fall together without problem solving. My solution is a cheap flux core wire welder and a Makita grinder, my go to tools for projects like this. Being able to weld, grind, cut and shape metal is a MUST for any DIY project. Also it helps when you have Tool or Pusifer playing in the background. Have fun everyone.
Pivot your engine forward and you should be able to get a bit more clearance on your pedals. And remember this is on a full suspension bike the joints on the crank and on the rear axle would be alot different than a hardtail
4 months later I completed my bike, 79cc 4 Stroke and the rear wheel tire is not center. Rubbing off the right chain stay, I’m over this build and all I want to do is ride. Any advice?
Learning quite a bit from your VIDS, thanks a bunch! Would like to know where you get your kits from? Been on eBay looking around but don't see the same engine in red color much. Thanks Very Much, Barry
When I put that kind of engine on a similar bike, I had to cut the rear fender a little so the chain would clear. Looks like you wanted to leave the fender intact that's why you had that problem!!!
This bike has some rear suspension and the pedals are attached to the suspended bit so the relationship between the pedals and engine will change with rider weight and bumps. Put that left pedal up there by that engine and go hit a bump. Also yes generally keeping a 4-stroker level is good policy but it's not NECESSARY; look at all the mini-bikes that for decades and decades have successfully tilted small engines such as Tecumseh and B&S. Just see that in it's new orientation that a correct oil level is maintained in the crankcase and that if a float carb is used, that it is level. That said, I can see how junky most of those kits and engines are and I wouldn't mess with one if it was given to me.
Plug taps and a helicoil can solve a stripped hole. I've had to do that before and it isn't that hard to do but you have to invest some good $$$ for the tools and all. You probably didnt have to go through all the trouble to move the engine and grind the crank arms. Buying an extended crank shaft with pedals and arms can be found online for $40. That engine was in a kit I bought but it came with different mounts and throttle grip. Its overall quality wasnt too terrible. The kit was $190. But I ended up getting a bunch of stuff from grubee and now have it driving the rear cassette on the bike via a jack shaft.
If the kit was any good it would have cost more, although to be fair the first Yamahas that came to the states were crap, too For the crank arms you need a torch. Fire makes everything fit everything else. For the bolt lengths, particularly on the header, it would be better to have studs and nuts since the metal they're going into is so soft. That way when the threads corrode you won't have to disturb them.
Never use the stock pedal extender. The sprocket is complete crap for starters & the metal in the axle feels like you can break it with a few taps of a hammer. I use the Phantom Bikes crank extender adapter which allows me to keep the stock chain ring & bottom bracket hardware which I trust far more than the crappy kit stuff. Costs an extra $20 to $30 but well worth it. Plus the Phantom Bikes crank extension adapter is much higher build quality & longer than the kit stuff. Get some decent crank arms & metal pedals & it would last as long or longer than the bike itself.
Hey Adam its me again I wanna say this ur not at fault behind ur products of what ur educating us on and what u represent tho thats why I dont deal with a lot of bike cats that throwsout bootleg motorparts from EBay such as Boy Go fast and other crap motors from other sites that has no bike motor experience none whatsoever but ur good and stand by ur reputation and long as I been watching ur vid sofar you and Terry blow educating the motorized bike world nothing more the love quality of a bike
Hey! It was great hearing from you again! Thank you again for the continued support on my videos and information. I'll definitely be keeping up with things and adding more videos in the near future sharing the knowledge that I acquire with everyone. Have a great day and thanks again!
we make ours nine and a half for The McCarthys that's with the Predator 212 on it kinda depends on the pitch of the crank arm as well we sell a complete kit for a hundred bucks
@larry ballard Miles per hour? I wouldn't go 30 to 35 KPH on those brakes. I don't recommend any sort of conversion kit without V brakes at least. Preferably disk. Of course It depends on the riding you're doing with these things. If you keep it slow around people and cars. You might be alright. Ride safe
Hi, I'm looking to build my first 4 stroke motorized bike in the uk. Could you suggest a 4 stroke kit which would give me the most success from a good supplier. I appreciate you sharing your experience.
Hi Sinister Custom Cycles, I'm getting a Micargi Rover-GX 26" Beach Bike. Do you recommend that frame? I'm also looking to install an 80 cc 2-stroke kit on it. Do you recommend 2 or 4 stroke? And, is there any specific engine kit to avoid? Or any other issues to be concerned about? Thanks in advance!
hi, I have been going through problems with finding a reliable bike kit for transportation, I purchased one recently, and it went to crap in about a week. I've searched everywhere and I still haven't found one that seems reliable. Would you know of any good kits to recommend to me? I would really appreciate it.
This bike is almost perfect. It was very easy to assemble. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx2YFGCCEkXKgqCOH-7vlvgb4L4hg4IrXI The fit was great as well. I am 5'11" and 160 lbs with a longer torso and rather shorter legs, and 55cm is a perfect fit. Every component seems to be pretty decent and durable except the rear wheel. It was a bit lob-sided and also the freewheel component is either missing a ball bearing or under lubricated, which prevents the wheel from rotating freely. Because of that, it requires more pedaling and also climbing hills a lot harder than expected. Other than the back wheel, I like everything else about it. Affordable and well-built.** UPDATE **It turns out the sound was caused by the tight chain tension. Once I loosen it up by moving the backwheel a tad bit closer to the crankset, the sound went away.
Lel! i hope your rear suspension doesn't move much or your engine chain might become loose. P.S how strong is the clutch and how much weight could this move along easily?
How can that engine cool with that exhaust shield blocking the fins? Is this mystery engine you mentioned a Golden Eagle? It only took a minute to do a search
curiosity..why is the plates around the head of the engine? don't you want as much air hitting that to cool the engine down? enless that kit has a different cooling system seems very odd
+Jason Pearce>>>>>> It's a 4cycle dope... The oil partially cools the engine... This is the problem when marketing this stuff. People have a misunderstanding misconceptions right from seeing it let alone owning and operating it. I have 1st generation lawn tractors which are basically old cast iron blocks of steel... They don't even have cooling fins. They are not plates they are cooled cooling fins the way an engine dissipates heat. On an engine like Adams it is possible to MILL on a CNC machine a sleeve around the engine head as a heat sync. That is not necessary these Dingle Berry.com engines are as cheap and inexpensive as an engine gets a dime a dozen. However the PREDATOR engines can be broken down modified internally and there are carb combinations that work very very well with them, SO extra opening an engine up internally to consume more air and fuel would necessitate some extra added cooling capacity. I am currently experimenting with an engine I took apart. I had a hell of time getting gaskets for it. I had to go to an overseas vendor and just getting someone on the phone that spoke English was like a bad dream dealing on the phone an hour until someone that spoke English answered. They must not have worked for the company. It sounded like an American speaking friend of the family business in over Mie Dong, China. Playing with this shit has it's hinks and kinks dudes...
+Tim Yeakel gotcha..I'm new to all this I just built my first bike..just got a cheap eBay 80cc pot metal engine and cheap beach cruiser. .I know I know there's better ways to go but I'm Ball in on a budget..but after my first build I now wanna build another one and wanted to see what else was out there that's how I came across this vid..but thanks for your knowledge
Jason good luck and endeavor to win and please yourself. Yes there is better stuff out here and when you are ready for thee big leagues y'all give us a call. We can sell to you or guide you thru some of it. truthful advice these days is hard to come by when there are a gazillion internet hustlers out there... However I'm the guy that won't blow smoke up your ass.... I got what people want when they are ready for it. Keep that in mind and don't let the old lady know you took the check book to buy yourself a toy... Good luck.
what was the Engine that you are looking at? please let me know because I'm interested in building myself a bike. but I was to have a built in gas tank. I just decide to do one for me. I need all the help I can get.
What would you recommend as a beginner kit? Im looking for a 50cc motor and hopefully under $300 total. Not looking to race or anything just want something that goes about 30 Mph and can get me around town. I'm not the best with finding parts online and was just trying to find one spot to get all i need for a good price. Im fine with the engine being 2 stroke as i believe those are cheaper than a 4 stroke (correct me if I'm wrong). Thanks!!
I'm not big on Gas Bike because of their crappy service I recently experienced that left me out in the cold with a bad part but they are the only ones I have found with the 49cc HuaSheng T-belt drive kit for well under $300 shipped to your door. 2 strokes are a lot cheaper but it all comes down to what you want. A cheap 2 stroke will cause you a lot of issues unless you plan to stick a fair amount of money in to for upgraded parts inside and out. If you're looking for a bolt on reliable long lasting forget about it kind of kit I would go with the HuaSheng T-belt 7G kit to start.
Actual question no joke. Whats the point of a motor on a single gear bike that doesn't have multiple gears? Wouldn't you always have to pedal since if you stop pedaling on a bike with no gears it just stops?
+Aaron Laudat Productions Hello Aaron! Thank you for watching and for your interest in this! I'm not sure I fully understand your question but I'll try to answer it the best I can and if I fail miserably just let me know lol. There are two drive chains on the bike, the one on the right is for the pedals and the one on the left is for the engine. Having pedals caters to a loophole in the law where you don't need insurance, plates, registration, etc.. Having the engine allows you to either have an assist or full power from the engine so you don't have to pedal. This allows you to go places a regular motorcycle isn't allowed and go distances a lot of people can't pedal. Plus it also saves a lot of money since they get about 140-160mpg. I also go to a lot of fairs and car shows, so with these I don't have to pay for parking. I hope this answers your question but if not let me know by commenting here or you can also reach me at sinistercustomcycles@gmail.com or Facebook.com/sccmn
Sinister Custom Cycles I think when you mentioned having an assist that addressed my question, but it didn't answer it 100%. I have a motorized bike I haven't rode. This bike is not a gear bike and it does not have breaks. The brake function is when you stop pedaling. The pedals must move or the bike won't move with this design because it does not have gears or hand breaks. So basically you'd have to pedal the entire ride even if the engine is on... Wouldn't the engine make it pedal to fast for your feet to keep up or wouldn't there be an issue stopping since to brake you have to immediately stop pedaling? If you still don't understand just look at a bike without gears. A bike without gears will not move if you don't pedal it. A gear bike can move without pedaling because it has a sort of neutral state where if you have some speed you can stop pedaling for a while and just let the it roll until you have to pick up speed again.
Aaron Laudat Productions So you have a motor on a fixed gear. Which is probably the stupidest thing you can do. You're confusing fixed gear bikes vs single speed/freewheel bikes. Single speed and free wheel bikes can coast, fixed gears can't. Just becuase a bike has one speed does not mean it is a fixed gear
I have a question for you ! I got a 66/80cc engine in the mail yesterday from Amazon ! My friend put it together for me while i waz at work that day and , heres my question ! He didnt hoik the wiring up right !! Lol !! He hooked the sparkplug up to the magneto and wasnt using the CDI box at all !! So i ordered a new magneto and CDI box and sparkplug but it still doesnt fire ? Any ideas ?
hi where can I buy the hub mounted sprocket kit? I also want the under seat fuel tank.. is this from the same place? I live in the UK! where do you recommend buying the engine kit?
Oh, the problems that arise, when you picked a frame that is to small.😁
Going through that now😆😆
It doesn't look too small?
Its not too small the Huasheng is just a shit design with the stock carb.
If you have, and I've missed it, you should name names..call these guys out, there lots of options and the cheesy ones should get weeded out.
Paul Mccarter theres like 3 manufacturing plants in china supplying about 130 bicycle engine kit companies, my point their all cheesy
Paul Mccarter
Yeah I'd like to know too.
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@BuckGreywolfe slander is only applicable when what your saying isnt true. obviously his grievances are justifiable considering were watching the evidence.
I see the bike is a Micargi, which BikeBerry.com uses in their full bike kits so there is a possibility, but I'm not 100% positive. The bike in his video is a full suspension, and none of BB's current Micargi bike kits have suspension. I havent seen the Micargi brand on Gasbike.net and havent looked any further to see who else has that particular model.
I'm right in the middle of a similar project and feel your pain. Cheap parts, no instructions, incompatible pieces, on and on can go. Best advice I can give is have a friend who runs a custom fabrication shop or be ready to pay for additional modifications you will encounter. I'm just looking forward to riding my bike when it's finished. Electra Super deluxe cruiser with nexus rear hub and 49cc 4stroke motor.
Daniel Miller did you buy the nexus hub already built on rim ?????
How much $$$$$. And where did you purchase it. Many Thanks
Same experience.
One thing all these kits should do is drill a self tapping screw in to the frame through the chain tensioned clamp. It will keep it from vibrating loose and falling into the spokes.
This is for anyone watching or for Mr. Sinister- putting an engine on a cruiser style bike is playing Russian roulette with your life.
One day you will need to stop NOW and you will not be able to. A coaster brake is for stopping a pedal bike going slow- NOT for someone going 20 or 30 MPH.
If you are considering a kit, do yourself, and everyone involved in the hobby (who may have to deal with your splattered body in the headlines of a newspaper, or another law banning motor bikes) a favor and get a bike with at least 2 V brakes or discs.
Mike
As a kid I found that the coaster brake didn't do much when going really fast down a hill, so I agree.
I have some good brakes but have to carry spare pads for emergency stops they're done after 1-2 hard stops.
I road my bike 34 miles or more daily for two years
Will these kits work with disc brakes wouldn't the router get in the way of the sproket
@@johnathanblevins8439 --- Router? ...or Rotor?
.
Good point, I think that's a good question 🤔 I don't this kit is adaptable to a bike with disc brakes.
Yes, very true.
This engine can go a couple of inches forward, giving you extra clearance on top. You could have fashioned the engine base and tilt it forward as well. For whatever reason, you fitted it with the base horizontal, hence a very tight fit.
After watching several videos of people making adjustments to make all this work, I bought a Mo-Ped....works great. Has a horn.
How has the moped worked out for you? These bikes definitely are projects and require to have a passion for working on motors to be enjoyable.
@@CuddlyJon I love working on projects as much as the next guy but these retro-fits shouldn't be your transportation vehicle....better to ride them to the coffee-shop with friends on the weekends.....not as commuter to work and back.
@@readmore3634 after clocking 2,000 miles on my 2 stroke, I have to agree. I mean they can be somewhat reliable but there will be a fair amount of hiccups and maintenance compared to a nice reliable moped. I myself do prefer the styling though haha. Hope I see you out there one day, would definitely wave to you!
Nice bike. I like how it's a full suspension cruiser that doesn't ruin the cruiser look. I don't go near Chinese kits anymore though. I had a Grubee 4G on my cruiser but the transfer case broke on me after 100 miles. Now I have a bike with Honda engine & an American built kit.
Tim Yeakel I'll think about that. I've been getting around on a high quality American made friction drive bike with a Honda engine from Japan lately. Engine might not be American but at least in Japan quality comes first. I wish more bicycle engine kit companies would do what you do. I hate the china shit. They have no respect for quality.
Tim Yeakel My setup on my mountain bike is a rear mount friction drive built out of solid high tensile steel & made in Oklahoma USA by Staton Inc. & the engine is a Honda GX35 (35cc) that runs at 1.6 HP at 4500 RPM & it can clock 30mph easily & gets outstanding gas mileage. Most I've spent on gas is like $6 to $10 for a whole months worth of gas. It's the most reliable motorized bike I ever put together. Cant imagine ever going back to a Chinese kit. Only things I had to change were the clutch rotor & the rear tube after a bad flat. After getting motorcycle grade tire slime & some good tire liner I never had a flat since.
Joe there is a thing called a light weight highly durable metal called a hardened Billet Ingot 2100J Aluminum which is just fine for many bike parts hubs and sprockets and it cuts just like steel on my CNC... Maybe you prefer the extra weight? My bike weighs in with it's steel frame at 116Lbs... It's 40 Lbs more than I originally had anticipated when I constructed my bike. My Bike is an original U.S. made ROADMASTER (MOLLY CHROME FRAME) made before the CHINESE destroyed the bikes and the ROADMASTER name... If I were you I woulda bought a better bike than paid for and cut special pieces for that Wal_mart piece of shit bike... What y'all need is a better bike a real bike. Watch my videos if you got some brain matter that is still usable you all will get my message. By the way I make light I found my bicycle on a curb in the trash. No it wasn't in the condition it is now... I tend to favor American metals.. Try to get my mental message okay...
after figuring out how to use the Harbor Freight / Lifan / Duro 79-99cc engines in the correct mounting orientation with the cylinder forward I found that all these other bike engines are worthless to me. I have had them all. They are crap compared to the availability of better 2 to 3 horse small 4 stroke engines. My design is in the process of steps to make a kit for using off the shelf engines from Kawasaki, Honda, Harbor freight, and more on one mounting design.
I will make a video eventually on the design when I get a bunch made to put up for sale.
Do you got a picture
Are the videos out yet?
Im sure you will. Btw I'm getting some plans drawn up for some products that i will be making soon that will be a huge success guaranteed i will keep you posted when i start the videos that i will make. You're high dude.
Over 49cc or 1 horse us illegal unless you Vin, and get insurance in Arizona. 19.9 mph max for free ride. Not allowed on shared paths illegal to be in sidewalk.
Dude, you didn't give us the information on the good kit, what the HELL!
He wants the good kit for himself lol
Right!!?? Damnit man! 😂
A wider bottom bracket crank axle is really cheap, they come in many many different lengths. Another problem is the suspension pulls and loosens the chain as you ride over uneven ground, acceleration will pull the chain towards the engine, slackening it, slowing down will cause the chain to be pulled tight. These kits need a rigid frame or a better design of suspension that allows the swing arm to rise and fall with an up and down motion rather than a back and forth motion. So frames will be better than others. For most kit's I've found the generic beach cruiser curved frame is a pretty good choice.
Chain tensioner with a spring
The reason you are having clearance issues is because you''re using a full suspension bike. These kits aren't designed for suspension frames. The crank arms are connected to the swing arm and the engine is mounted to the front half of the frame. They move and the dimensions for clearance change. The problem is your lack of knowledge not the kit.
Justin Bono I agree with you all the way. He keeps stating the kit is cheap.. hrum how much was the kit? Not more than $200 or so right. If you want better components spend the money then. You try that new engine on that bike.. you'll still have clearance issues.. and if you say cheap one more time.... omg your the tight ass who bought the parts... can't wait until that video of you riding that bike and the pedal falls off due to cheap owner grinding it down.
Chain is gonna fall off lol.
When a person sits on that bike the rear shock will compress moving that crank closer to the engine.
Justin Bono इस इलेक्ट्रोनिक साईकिल किड कि किमत कितनी है
lmao I was watching this thinking the same thing when I saw the rear swing arm. Wrong frame for the kit. Are you sure you want to have 2 whipping chainsaws down there by your junk every time you ride down bumpy roads?
2014 I built same HS49cc engine + 18" beach cruiser frame etc. 44T rear gave it "legs", will try 48T next build. Had same trouble with an Ebay kit, moved engine all the way forward. Same crappy gear reduction drive (tiny chain inside). Beware of the soft OEM supplied 2 shoe clutch. I used tougher upgrade Clutch from thatsdax. Install a decent mtn bike style crank & bearings 10.5 - 11" wide. Beware of coaster brakes on a motorized bike! Use a double set of V brakes like found on BMX. A springer fork will save your molars. Long 44" to 46" wheelbase frames like Felt or Sikk ride better - give you room to work, to build and pedal. I like your vid = helpful.
You keep saying it’s a piece of crap but dude, even if that thing doesn’t work, it looks DOPE
even with the issues you had, very cool! keep up the good work.
I had one of these that I bought at a pawn shop. Had a 2 stroke on it. It ran and drove great the problem was the motor viberated so bad that when I made the 6mile trip to work my ass and lower back was on fire. I got rid of it. You get what you pay for.
The gear boxes on the two bikes, might have different ratios, which would account for the better low-end torque. The bike would have a lower top speed though.
I think you made that more haste than it had to be. I would of used the adjustable mounting slots on the base plate and store dedicated the output spigot on the reduction drive. only thing I can see bad about that kit is the seagull welding!
Allyy Kaayy My intention when I first started was to do that, but I'm kept pretty busy with my career right now so I decided not to do motorized bikes as a business since I didn't feel I could give my customers the service they deserve. Maybe I'll have more time in the future, but as of right now I just enjoy helping people the best I can with their builds.
What companies should I avoid??? New to this and would appreciate the advice and help!
When you use a paper clip to measure depth,allow for the fact that the tap that made the female threads started off tapered,so the machine threads will lock up as the 1st 4 or so threads are reached. I.E.,screw the bolt in and when it starts to drag,mark it w/tape.Then cut the distance between tape -at-block and the 1st washer you use PLUSa thread or two,to allow for lock washer squash,plus ,(I assume you are concerned w/exhaust)Allow for thickness of flange.USE 'EM ALL,BUT DON'T BOTTOM OUT!.
Apart from grinding down the engine case for it to fit, you instead remove the 9 inches crank, and then put on a 7 inches crank.
I bought this engine kit from bike berry and I had the same problem you had everything was exactly what you said
I bought mine for 160 on Ebay and it was better than Bikebooboo! Still 💩but less corn!🤣🤣🤣🤣
late 1950's/early 60's we bolted b&s motors on wood boards, attached them to the frame , with centrifical clutches,and a big pulley bolted to the back wheel. to line things up the engine had t be way off center making the rig tricky to balance. sometimes they ran, sometimes they didn't but when they did they ran like a bat out of hell.
You are right to seek a new design. I'd be intrerested. I've built several of these and vibration and metal fatigue are a big drawback
I agree with Paul. You should've name names, but you should make another vlog on the other bike with the chrome rim. Compare the two different kits and bikes.
If you strip the block bosses, you can go a size higher and rethread them, if it's soft enough to strip its soft enough to thread! They give you a decent amount of metal to work with, but I'd go up a size at a time, they will strip again haha
it's all because the bike has a suspension frame, most of these bikes pedals are extended forward
Appreciate your video,checked,my port holes in aluminum block,sure enough,bolts supplied were to long.The mounting plate in my kit is not consistent.I have alot of spinal hardware,figured this would get me traversing RR tracks for my metal detector hobby.lol.Just taking bit longer than I had figured.I want it reliable,so taking my time.Know how it is,trying to get bye with limited funds to use.If one must fabricate mounts,best know from jump,so not trying to make bad method and parts work.I WISH MY KIT HAD THE MOUNT SYSTEM YOUR USING.I NOTICE FOLK JUST BOLTING ON,NO SPACERS.I want to trust,so opted for nylon locking nuts AND LOC -TITE,but adding spacers as well.I have decent shop here,but no welder either,so I'd be thinking it out to.One comment said to tip,but lubrication oil circulation would be effected with four stroke,understood why you avoided.Yes the parts ARE inconsistent from "there",and nice you risking hecklers to let others know not to rush.CUSTOM MEANS CUSTOM.Will admit,I could of easily used the long screws and ruined the ports,so thank you for posting.Wish you luck in solving.Cheers!!!
I love the look of the retro sprung forks but I love to be able to stop so was looking for a source for those old drum brakes that used to come on the Schwinn Crate bikes but they have gotten crazy expensive. So I built mine on a frame with discs. If I ever come across a good drum I will build a bike around it LOL.
Check out mbrebel.com for the drum brakes
So where did you buy the good one? How much was it and where do I get one?
Why would you compare a good one to a bad one without telling us where to get the good one
Beautiful, but:
Anyone in the EU or Britain should know that, whilst great fun, these can only be used on private land. They are not allowed on cycleways, as in the UK the only powered cycles we allow are electric bikes up to 250 Watts power, under our EAPC Regs, similar in all EU.
You can ride them on the roads, but you must have a licence, you must register them, fit number plates, pay Vehicle Excise Duty (Road Tax), have insurance (difficult) and wear a helmet, just like a motorcycle
Did the kit come with the bike? Because if he got a random bike the sure a lot of stuff would not fit. Like his cranks and the motor mount. If you look on many websites, they have kits that come with the bikes. So these problems would most likely not occur on other bikes
How are you keeping chain tension with suspension in the rear?
I just love it when someone coughs in my ear.
Wow bud, I watched the first two minutes and pretty quickly figured out that your mechanical problem solving skills leave a little to be desired. Why in this world or any other would you move the engine up and grind off the crank when the obvious solution is to either get or fabricate a longer crank arm. Do you weld? Do you fabricate anything? Or do you just bolt on Chinese crap from some kit you ordered.
I came to the same conclusion as you in the first few minutes.
They look heavy. Good video. I took mine on the shoulder of the highway. A truck came from behind and the draft almost sucked me under semi wheels. Beware. Scary. Don't do it. Warn others. Not safe. Peace
It all depends on what your definition of heavy is. These run about 80-90 pounds. I'm glad to hear you didn't sucked under the semi!
How is the pedaling with the 4 stroke engine?
Are there any drawbacks with engine on/off, can you pedal the bike just like you would if there were no engine? Thanks for the video 😊
Did you measure the width of your bikes bottom bracket axle without paddles? My point is that they aren't necessarily the same width. So changing the bottom bracket is a better fix and you could move the engine further down I guess
Thanks for the post. I guess flip flops aren't a great idea with the lower clearance pedal bike. ..wow crazy quality issues there.
Awesome thanks for your Intel ..Looking forward to the new motor video I need to build one soon.
Looks like there is plenty of room to move the motor forward to fix any clearance issues.
Thanks for the review. So what kit DO you recommend? Whats the best thing you have used?
I've always used the HuaSheng 49cc 4-Stroke engines and had great luck with them. I've had the 4G, 5G & 7G. The 5G was absolute crap since they had the chain drive which was absolutely terrible in every way. I love the belt drives and have had great luck with those.
Thank you.
I'm sure what you did was much easier than spending to 10 bucks on the correct part.
Just needed a longer bottom bracket spindle. Now the crank and engine bolt is ruined.
I got it, a Stihl weed wacker, 4 stroke. Your very smart!
MICARGI FULL SUSPENSION!!! DO NOT USE!! FOR, 49CC FOUR STROKE... Bottom line...!
hi if you happen to strip out the threads you can all ways tap them out a little bigger
and it you brake a motor stud flush withe the motor you can drill a 1/8 in hole about 1/4 of an inch down and find a Allen wrench and tap it in to the hole and turn it out without to much trouble
Got the original westernflyer buzz model from the 60s, just got the motor running, with the gas tank and everything it actually looks like an old motorcycle lol
Hello LeRoy! I don't remember off the top of head what length they were once I was finished. I took a paperclip and stuck it in the hole for the exhaust studs and then got my length that way. Then I cut the studs down and touched them up with a grinder so I wouldn't ruin the threads on the engine. It took me a couple times but it worked out fine that. Just don't over tighten, and use thread locker on them. Any other questions please let me know.
+Sinister Custom Cycles Adam people on here do and do not understand each application can be different from where the engine ends up in what position. I have had engines sit on such a cant on the frame they barely fit on the bike and I had to pull the exhaust studs and do exactly what you folks describe only I use a depth gauge I made from an old tire gauge my buddy gave me at the local Jack Williams store. Either way people think these engines will fit right on any bicycle. That's another fantasy especially if you deal with a bike with an octagonal oblonged frame size on the lower tube. I've used every tool from a grinder to a cutter to our CNC machine to open the front of the engine mount up so it fit respectable. That can also eliminate mounting clearance problems. Listen to my two cycle bikes run in my videos. They don't sound anything like a Dingle Berry.com engine.. And they don't fly apart either.
Tim Yeakel JusconquesthshkkajahjajsjdjdjjsxkxjsndndhsbhhgajahksdkhxusgenfdkdiebeuijisjdjjhjahaoshshjfajahqkshsbkahahsiajsgKjzksmslzyspsjahjzjf,lays lab is hand vs ms JJ jkxjx
Sinister Custom Cycles
Is what you half to do before you tighten the bolts is move your pedal 360% make sure it clears every thin including keepin your exhaust on is what I usally do is mount the motor then take a screwdiver wedge it between the machine and the pedal that keeps the motor in place although you may half to toruge the right side more than the left to pull the motor over or vice versa another thing seen bike berry do it special order a pedal thats bent outwards giving one up to 4 " of play rather than 64th clearance.
Sinister Custom Cycles
Yeah, Sinister Custom! Of ALL my 55 years of working, repairing, etc. different kinds of engines on different vehicles/cars/trucks/vans, etc, I HAVE NEVER, EVER COME ACROSSED THIS THING THEY CALL, "MB (motorized bike)".
August 20, 2017, Wednesday, on my way back from Riverview, Florida, my muffler ACTUALLY, started breaking apart at the weld on top of exhaust pipe. I let it slide for a few more feet down the road & my muffler pipe breaks off more. So, instead of possible accident by running over my own exhaust muffler, & of course, I would've made fool out of myself instead of a monkey. So, I stopped & broke the rest of it off, but my main question is, WHAT causes it to do it the SECOND/2ND time in 2 days time, possibly, MORE times after this 2nd go around, BUT with a DIFFERENT muffler that I bought? ONLY MEEEE!!! ONLYMEEEE!! LOL! Sincerely, Will Smith
Pay $130 for a complete motor kit and get surprised it isnt perfect...LMAO
TwasButNowAint ya really
In finland its 220 dollars
Agreed. Don't expect ANYTHING mechanical to fall together without problem solving. My solution is a cheap flux core wire welder and a Makita grinder, my go to tools for projects like this. Being able to weld, grind, cut and shape metal is a MUST for any DIY project. Also it helps when you have Tool or Pusifer playing in the background. Have fun everyone.
wow? that cheap eh? proves you get wat you pay for!
@@seanyoung5598 you must be from America
Pivot your engine forward and you should be able to get a bit more clearance on your pedals. And remember this is on a full suspension bike the joints on the crank and on the rear axle would be alot different than a hardtail
4 months later I completed my bike, 79cc 4 Stroke and the rear wheel tire is not center. Rubbing off the right chain stay, I’m over this build and all I want to do is ride. Any advice?
Learning quite a bit from your VIDS, thanks a bunch! Would like to know where you get your kits from? Been on eBay looking around but don't see the same engine in red color much. Thanks Very Much, Barry
high quality gas and electric kits can be found at www.bikeberry.com/gas-engine-kits.html?acc=1f0e3dad99908345f7439f8ffabdffc4
hello, congratulations on the bike, but why not ride with them, would these bikes be just for exhibition?
When I put that kind of engine on a similar bike, I had to cut the rear fender a little so the chain would clear. Looks like you wanted to leave the fender intact that's why you had that problem!!!
Thats the Fun in these projects modifying tinkering amd fabricating!
why didn't you buy shorter cranks? Or just buy a crankset for a fatbike? I'm genuinely interested.
Are there different kits for different bikes? Wonder if you could of just ordered the correct part.
Did that bike originally have a one piece crank set? If it did, how did you get the pedal crank extenders to work?
I'm looking to buy a kit and want to avoid all this. What manufacture should I avoid?
This bike has some rear suspension and the pedals are attached to the suspended bit so the relationship between the pedals and engine will change with rider weight and bumps. Put that left pedal up there by that engine and go hit a bump.
Also yes generally keeping a 4-stroker level is good policy but it's not NECESSARY; look at all the mini-bikes that for decades and decades have successfully tilted small engines such as Tecumseh and B&S. Just see that in it's new orientation that a correct oil level is maintained in the crankcase and that if a float carb is used, that it is level.
That said, I can see how junky most of those kits and engines are and I wouldn't mess with one if it was given to me.
What's the best motor kit under 300$?
Looking at that i would have just moved the motor forward until the chain got tight and made new mount holes
Plug taps and a helicoil can solve a stripped hole. I've had to do that before and it isn't that hard to do but you have to invest some good $$$ for the tools and all.
You probably didnt have to go through all the trouble to move the engine and grind the crank arms. Buying an extended crank shaft with pedals and arms can be found online for $40.
That engine was in a kit I bought but it came with different mounts and throttle grip. Its overall quality wasnt too terrible. The kit was $190. But I ended up getting a bunch of stuff from grubee and now have it driving the rear cassette on the bike via a jack shaft.
If the kit was any good it would have cost more, although to be fair the first Yamahas that came to the states were crap, too
For the crank arms you need a torch. Fire makes everything fit everything else. For the bolt lengths, particularly on the header, it would be better to have studs and nuts since the metal they're going into is so soft. That way when the threads corrode you won't have to disturb them.
Nice I can’t wait to see your American made higher end stuff !!!! Keep us updated!!!!
I think you put the engine mount plate backwards
2stroke kits kick arse dude ! I seriously recommend ; )
Blown 5 if them in only 300-500 miles. No heat tolerance or long distance ability.
2 strokes are smelly, oily smokey messy, louder with that ringa dinga dinga rattle sound.
@@gerardjones7881 theyre way better for a motrised bike
Never use the stock pedal extender. The sprocket is complete crap for starters & the metal in the axle feels like you can break it with a few taps of a hammer. I use the Phantom Bikes crank extender adapter which allows me to keep the stock chain ring & bottom bracket hardware which I trust far more than the crappy kit stuff. Costs an extra $20 to $30 but well worth it. Plus the Phantom Bikes crank extension adapter is much higher build quality & longer than the kit stuff. Get some decent crank arms & metal pedals & it would last as long or longer than the bike itself.
Make sure to only use synthetic oil in the two stroke mixture. Regular two stroke oil will allow the engine to byrn up.
Very good! I like what your doing! Thank you.
cool bike but does the rear suspension mess with your chain tension ?
Wouldn't have been easier to buy a longer spindle instead of grinding and cutting?
Can you tell me where to get the good four-stroke kit that you had on the other bike not the one with the full suspension
Hey Adam its me again I wanna say this ur not at fault behind ur products of what ur educating us on and what u represent tho thats why I dont deal with a lot of bike cats that throwsout bootleg motorparts from EBay such as Boy Go fast and other crap motors from other sites that has no bike motor experience none whatsoever but ur good and stand by ur reputation and long as I been watching ur vid sofar you and Terry blow educating the motorized bike world nothing more the love quality of a bike
Hey! It was great hearing from you again! Thank you again for the continued support on my videos and information. I'll definitely be keeping up with things and adding more videos in the near future sharing the knowledge that I acquire with everyone. Have a great day and thanks again!
we make ours nine and a half for The McCarthys that's with the Predator 212 on it kinda depends on the pitch of the crank arm as well we sell a complete kit for a hundred bucks
Brakes? Are they running these with just those feeble internal brakes. Hope you have good shoes.
@larry ballard Miles per hour? I wouldn't go 30 to 35 KPH on those brakes. I don't recommend any sort of conversion kit without V brakes at least. Preferably disk. Of course It depends on the riding you're doing with these things. If you keep it slow around people and cars. You might be alright. Ride safe
Thanks for the good info 😎👍
What companies have you used and what is the best one?
Hi, I'm looking to build my first 4 stroke motorized bike in the uk. Could you suggest a 4 stroke kit which would give me the most success from a good supplier. I appreciate you sharing your experience.
Is it the kit thats at fault or did you use a frame that is too small. I have these problems to overcome as I begin the build of my kit.
I eventually chose an 18 inch beach cruiser style frame. I got the impression they were made for each other.
I looked and looked and looked at the white print on the engine installed in the cheetah but my brain couldn't turn it into a word.
Hi Sinister Custom Cycles,
I'm getting a Micargi Rover-GX 26" Beach Bike. Do you recommend that frame? I'm also looking to install an 80 cc 2-stroke kit on it. Do you recommend 2 or 4 stroke? And, is there any specific engine kit to avoid? Or any other issues to be concerned about?
Thanks in advance!
+72defender see CaliforniaMotorbikes . com
hi, I have been going through problems with finding a reliable bike kit for transportation, I purchased one recently, and it went to crap in about a week. I've searched everywhere and I still haven't found one that seems reliable. Would you know of any good kits to recommend to me? I would really appreciate it.
Do you need a license for one in tennessee they make it sound like you do but under 50cc is also a law im pretty confused
How much was it I just seen this kit on eBay for 20 bucks so kinda get what ya get for 20 bucks
This bike is almost perfect. It was very easy to assemble. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx2YFGCCEkXKgqCOH-7vlvgb4L4hg4IrXI The fit was great as well. I am 5'11" and 160 lbs with a longer torso and rather shorter legs, and 55cm is a perfect fit. Every component seems to be pretty decent and durable except the rear wheel. It was a bit lob-sided and also the freewheel component is either missing a ball bearing or under lubricated, which prevents the wheel from rotating freely. Because of that, it requires more pedaling and also climbing hills a lot harder than expected. Other than the back wheel, I like everything else about it. Affordable and well-built.** UPDATE **It turns out the sound was caused by the tight chain tension. Once I loosen it up by moving the backwheel a tad bit closer to the crankset, the sound went away.
For stripped bolts, Helicoil balk amp/NAPA
Lel! i hope your rear suspension doesn't move much or your engine chain might become loose. P.S how strong is the clutch and how much weight could this move along easily?
How can that engine cool with that exhaust shield blocking the fins? Is this mystery engine you mentioned a Golden Eagle? It only took a minute to do a search
I watched one video and they left it off for cooling.
curiosity..why is the plates around the head of the engine? don't you want as much air hitting that to cool the engine down? enless that kit has a different cooling system seems very odd
+Jason Pearce>>>>>> It's a 4cycle dope... The oil partially cools the engine... This is the problem when marketing this stuff. People have a misunderstanding misconceptions right from seeing it let alone owning and operating it. I have 1st generation lawn tractors which are basically old cast iron blocks of steel... They don't even have cooling fins. They are not plates they are cooled cooling fins the way an engine dissipates heat. On an engine like Adams it is possible to MILL on a CNC machine a sleeve around the engine head as a heat sync. That is not necessary these Dingle Berry.com engines are as cheap and inexpensive as an engine gets a dime a dozen. However the PREDATOR engines can be broken down modified internally and there are carb combinations that work very very well with them, SO extra opening an engine up internally to consume more air and fuel would necessitate some extra added cooling capacity. I am currently experimenting with an engine I took apart. I had a hell of time getting gaskets for it. I had to go to an overseas vendor and just getting someone on the phone that spoke English was like a bad dream dealing on the phone an hour until someone that spoke English answered. They must not have worked for the company. It sounded like an American speaking friend of the family business in over Mie Dong, China. Playing with this shit has it's hinks and kinks dudes...
+Tim Yeakel gotcha..I'm new to all this I just built my first bike..just got a cheap eBay 80cc pot metal engine and cheap beach cruiser. .I know I know there's better ways to go but I'm Ball in on a budget..but after my first build I now wanna build another one and wanted to see what else was out there that's how I came across this vid..but thanks for your knowledge
Jason good luck and endeavor to win and please yourself. Yes there is better stuff out here and when you are ready for thee big leagues y'all give us a call. We can sell to you or guide you thru some of it. truthful advice these days is hard to come by when there are a gazillion internet hustlers out there... However I'm the guy that won't blow smoke up your ass.... I got what people want when they are ready for it. Keep that in mind and don't let the old lady know you took the check book to buy yourself a toy... Good luck.
what was the Engine that you are looking at? please let me know because I'm interested in building myself a bike. but I was to have a built in gas tank. I just decide to do one for me. I need all the help I can get.
What would you recommend as a beginner kit? Im looking for a 50cc motor and hopefully under $300 total. Not looking to race or anything just want something that goes about 30 Mph and can get me around town. I'm not the best with finding parts online and was just trying to find one spot to get all i need for a good price. Im fine with the engine being 2 stroke as i believe those are cheaper than a 4 stroke (correct me if I'm wrong). Thanks!!
I'm not big on Gas Bike because of their crappy service I recently experienced that left me out in the cold with a bad part but they are the only ones I have found with the 49cc HuaSheng T-belt drive kit for well under $300 shipped to your door. 2 strokes are a lot cheaper but it all comes down to what you want. A cheap 2 stroke will cause you a lot of issues unless you plan to stick a fair amount of money in to for upgraded parts inside and out. If you're looking for a bolt on reliable long lasting forget about it kind of kit I would go with the HuaSheng T-belt 7G kit to start.
4 stroke is more reliable period. I just built mine a little over a week ago. No break downs i ride it 30 to 60 miles a day runs like a cae
Actual question no joke. Whats the point of a motor on a single gear bike that doesn't have multiple gears? Wouldn't you always have to pedal since if you stop pedaling on a bike with no gears it just stops?
+Aaron Laudat Productions Hello Aaron! Thank you for watching and for your interest in this! I'm not sure I fully understand your question but I'll try to answer it the best I can and if I fail miserably just let me know lol. There are two drive chains on the bike, the one on the right is for the pedals and the one on the left is for the engine. Having pedals caters to a loophole in the law where you don't need insurance, plates, registration, etc.. Having the engine allows you to either have an assist or full power from the engine so you don't have to pedal. This allows you to go places a regular motorcycle isn't allowed and go distances a lot of people can't pedal. Plus it also saves a lot of money since they get about 140-160mpg. I also go to a lot of fairs and car shows, so with these I don't have to pay for parking. I hope this answers your question but if not let me know by commenting here or you can also reach me at sinistercustomcycles@gmail.com or Facebook.com/sccmn
Sinister Custom Cycles I think when you mentioned having an assist that addressed my question, but it didn't answer it 100%. I have a motorized bike I haven't rode. This bike is not a gear bike and it does not have breaks. The brake function is when you stop pedaling. The pedals must move or the bike won't move with this design because it does not have gears or hand breaks. So basically you'd have to pedal the entire ride even if the engine is on... Wouldn't the engine make it pedal to fast for your feet to keep up or wouldn't there be an issue stopping since to brake you have to immediately stop pedaling?
If you still don't understand just look at a bike without gears. A bike without gears will not move if you don't pedal it. A gear bike can move without pedaling because it has a sort of neutral state where if you have some speed you can stop pedaling for a while and just let the it roll until you have to pick up speed again.
Aaron Laudat Productions So you have a motor on a fixed gear. Which is probably the stupidest thing you can do. You're confusing fixed gear bikes vs single speed/freewheel bikes. Single speed and free wheel bikes can coast, fixed gears can't. Just becuase a bike has one speed does not mean it is a fixed gear
Aaron Laudat Productions cut the chain and pedals weld foot pegs and put on disk breaks
I have a question for you ! I got a 66/80cc engine in the mail yesterday from Amazon ! My friend put it together for me while i waz at work that day and , heres my question ! He didnt hoik the wiring up right !! Lol !! He hooked the sparkplug up to the magneto and wasnt using the CDI box at all !! So i ordered a new magneto and CDI box and sparkplug but it still doesnt fire ? Any ideas ?
hi where can I buy the hub mounted sprocket kit? I also want the under seat fuel tank.. is this from the same place? I live in the UK! where do you recommend buying the engine kit?
www.bikeberry.com/engine-kit-parts/drivetrain/bbr-tuning-sprocket-adapter-assembly.html?acc=1f0e3dad99908345f7439f8ffabdffc4
I know you don't want to name the bummbers, but how about naming a few of the good companies?
i cannot find the bicycle that you own. can you provide the model of bike that you own?
whats the name of the company you got the good kit from?