Why Low Brass vs High Brass is Nonsense!
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
- Made this video as a longtime shotshell reloader, to contradict @CivilianTactical saying that low brass shotshells cannot be reloaded. On the contrary they can, and are often easier to work with than high-brass hulls.
Low-brass is way easier to reload and quality hulls like Winchester AA's, Remington Gun Club's, or Nitro STS hulls last me 10-12 reloads personally before the crimp petals begin to split. High brass hulls are largely a holdover from the era of paper shotshells that couldn't withstand the firing temperature and pressure around the initial ignition of the powder charge. These hulls would burn pinholes through right above the brass head, between the wad a shot. Thus, the brass length on these hulls was extended to prevent these burn throughs. With modern polymer hull bodies, that is no longer an issue and the added brass doesn't achieve anything the polymer can't do, other than complicate the reloading process. There's a lot of misinformation out there on high brass hulls being superior when they're really not, for anyone who is loading typical trap and skeet type loads, or even general purpose hunting loads. What matters most is the internal geometry of the hull, case head THICKNESS, and how it is designed to contain pressure. Also, the sizing mechanism on a MEC 600 JR does not completely eject high brass hulls from the sizing ring, and they can get stuck leading to them being pulled out by hand or possibly damaged in doing so. Links below for more info. Ballistic products is one of the cutting-edge suppliers of shotshell components and reloader parts.
www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi... (exerpt below)
"Rule#3. The brass head height may be any length. The reason for HIGH-BRASS goes back to paper hulls. Paper hulls often produced pinhole burn-through(s) parallel to hull powder containment section. When the powder amount was higher than the brass section a burn through could occur. Magnum (additional powder height) paper shotshells were made with a higher brass head to protect against burn through. Thus a fantasy was born! The higher brass indicated a more powerful paper shotshell - (i.e. magnum). With current plastic shotshells the head (steel - brass or nickel-plated) height/length has no bearing on the strength of the load. Hulls (ACTIV) were made with no metal heads. The important feature is the strength and often the thickness of the head and not the height. Promotional hulls are always suspect, because the metal of the head is often rolled super thin to save costs. Promotional hulls are expected by one and all to be discarded in the field. Perhaps the factory downloaded this hull with some load designed for cheapness such as a Mouse & Cockroach promotional load at 7000PSI. Some reloader tries to cram a SuperDuck formula into this hull and then wonders why the hull did not hold up." 
Развлечения
Low Brass Vs High Brass-Clarificarions
ruclips.net/user/shortsCutNvMusbnc?feature=share
Unibody
Once he brought out the textbook I was like, “Yeah he knows what hes talking about.”
Figured backing up what I said with what’s regarded to be the best shotshell manual on the market might help give some credibility 😉
Pretty sure I saw a vid of some big company just chucking a huge bin of shells cuz of the high/low brass stuff said they don't wanna sort the stuff
Yep, I saw the same video 🙄
What a waste
@@thereloadingcraftjust wanna say I love how you actually educated folks on the difference and why the high vs. low brass debate is just preference at this point, but commercially it makes sense. Rather than to inspect every single shot shell you recycle. They get split between brass and polymer and it gets melted for new ones. It saves on cost in labor, and it removes some liability of the company providing faulty shotshells if improperly inspected or otherwise.
This is true, on a commercial scale. What bugs me is he tagged the video with “3 things to NEVER reload” and the guy in the video said low brass isn’t reloadable and he seconded it.
@@thereloadingcraft yeah that was the wierd part set a bad standard for no reason
I’m not sure it was intentional, but yeah it caught a good bit of flak for good reason.
I've reloaded low brass for years.
I'm new to reloading and I load kinda hot. Your saying I can reload buck loads into the old bird shot hulls?
YES@@Sandy-le7ly
The low or high brass simply tends to signify the size of powder charge for the load. Low brass is most often used for target loads with a lighter load, high brass signifies a heavier load used for hunting and usually classified as game loads. They do in fact have a difference in recoil.
Oh absolutely. Its become a nomenclature convention that high brass equals hotter load. That being said if the hulls are quality it doesn’t matter if they’re high or low brass in terms of longevity or pressure.
@@thereloadingcraft very true, especially considering the chamber is the only thing that actually has to deal with pressures. I mean, all plastic shells exist too.
Precisely. 👌🏻
Yup. All about marketing
Gee, thanks, Professor Obvious! That's correct, however Low and High Brass shells are easily interchangeable when you reload. They only use brass height for marketing and it has ZERO bearing on what you can reload in them I've loaded thousands of both.
Just started reloading buckshot and was under the assumption that I needed high brass shells but saw multiple videos where they loaded buckshot with low brass shells. Now I know why. Thanks!
You’re welcome!
I’m a musician and my thoughts instantly went to trumpets and trombones even though I'm looking at shells.
Haha, love it! I mean, high brass and low brass is a thing in both fields! 🤷🏻♂️😂
Make a part 2! Educate some of these people!
Anything you’d like to see addressed in particular?
@@thereloadingcraft Info on internal geometry!
Not a bad idea!
I love the old paper shells, dad has a small collection of them. Were those reloadable?
Super cool that reloading is *slightly less difficult than I thought
They are reloadable, however the paper getting pinholes burnt through is more of a concern than the crimp petals failing. Typically paper hulls only get 2-4 reloads before they’re ready to be tossed. Also depending on which ones you’re doing, some may require an overshot card and a roll crimp, while other use a traditional 6-fold crimp, it all depends.
@@thereloadingcraft How many times can you reload a plastic shell?
It depends on the quality of the shell-cheap bulk pack shells maybe 2-3 times. Quality shells like Win AA’s or Nitro STS’s on average 10-12 times for me before the crimp petals fail.
They changed to all brass shells because the paper shells would get wet and swell up, getting jammed back in the world wars.
Hell yeah, I love info like this. So cool to learn history and a lesson in reloading
Thank ya! Happy to ☺️
High brass extracts much more consistently.
Found that out the hard way today on my 20 gauge single shot.
@@RealohiorailroadproductionsYou alright?
@@NDB-AK yes, I’m fine I just keep getting shells stuck in the chamber of my shotgun.
I've reloaded on the lee load all 2 for several years and as long as u use the right wad for the hulls ur using then it makes no difference whether it's high or low brass. They shoot the same
100% agree 👌🏻
I've been reloading for 40+ years - they all reload, some longer than others.
I’m so glad I found this I just seen a guy with a reloading facility and was saying low bras is not reloadable??? I was like wtf? How is it not? Then this guy pops up like what!!! I knew that fool was wrong
😂 thanks! Yeah I made this video to counter that one with evidence and experience otherwise.
I was always told that HI Brass, was used for Field Loads because there's more pressure to contain.
Your thoughts?
High brass is commonly used to denote a field load (going back to the paper hull days) but it isn’t a concern with pressure as much as it is a traditional way to recognize a warmer load. The brass (or paper, or plastic) doesn’t have to contain the pressure since that’s what the chamber walls do. It simply creates the seal so you don’t get gasses going backwards. With paper hulls the powder charge was burning pinholes through the hull underneath the wad, so they extended the brass forward to cover that spot.
Reading some in my Lyman shotshell manual and some on Ballistics Products website-I’ve found the geometry on the hull base pays way more of a factor than brass height does. One piece tapered hulls (think Nitro STS’s) are one of the strongest designs out there, and they’re a low brass hull. By contrast, some of the fiber-bottomed hulls regardless of brass height are the worst at containing pressure, again because of the inside. The other thing that plays a factor is the thickness of the case head and the brass or steel used in it. Cheap promo packs of shotshells (low or high brass) often use a very thinly rolled brass portion, which has lower inherent strength. Check out the link from BPI for more info ☺️
www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/articleindex/articles/curmudgeon_articles/060124_hulls_in_general.htm
Your shotgun’s chamber contains the pressure not the hull.
Federal has gone from high brass to low brass on a load that I like. Probably just a metal economy move. I'm guessing at least a 25% savings in the steel. For them. I do wish those heads were better plated. I've had ammo rust on me from handling and humidity.
saw the video many here are talking about where a small company who reloads rounds says they don't even reload shotgun shells because they don't wanna sort high v. low. as a gun nut but someone who is not experienced in reloading, i couldn't imagine losing that much potential just for a misconception lmao
Agreed, and the guy literally says “and this is low brass…NOT reloadable.” Like…do you have any idea that 90%+ of the shells people prefer to load over and over and over again are low brass?? Yes a lot of the cheap shells are also low brass, but the majority of the quality ones are too!
In my country everyone reloads the low brass shells. I learned that the high brass is for buckshot and slug, but I don’t realy know if that makes difference or if it’s just a popular myth
I reload #9 shot, 00 buck and slugs. High brass, low brass, medium brass…doesn’t matter.
Great info man!! Thank you for this.
Please do a part 2.
Anything you’d like to see covered?
Concur, I've loaded a whole lot of 00 Buck into Remington STS hulls. High brass is a hold over from the paper hull days.
STS’s are excellent hulls, and low brass. Thanks for the backup! 😎
I know of even the cheapest Federal Game Loads and Dove and Quail load hulls being reloaded a few times back decades ago. Also the old cheap black Remington hulls would stand multiple loads too.
See video description for a more detailed explanation, and some links to credible sources backing up this video.
What manual are you using as reference? I've been pining over a press to reload 12g & 16g but have never reloaded anything or even seen it done in person.
I use the Lyman, don’t remember which edition off the top of my head. Also if you’re interested, check out the link below for my long format video on the process to load 12ga using a MEC 600JR.
MEC 600 Jr. - Setting Up and Adjusting The Best Shotshell Press For The Money
ruclips.net/video/x1Cm5kDEXQ8/видео.html
Question:
Is it true that "High Brass" shothsells loaded with more powder than low brass?
From the factory loads that is “sometimes” true. To the reloader it makes no difference, and the reason the factories do it is just because people think high brass=magnum. It has nothing to do with the quality of the hull itself.
I see. So how to know the shotshells I bought really magnum?
A friend let me shoot a box magazine fed shotgun. The low brass shells were more difficult to load in the magazine. The retainer at the top of the magazine would not hold the shell as well. By comparison, the high brass loaded very smoothly. Thanks for the video, great job dispelling a myth about shotshells.
I shot Skeet since I was 16. I turned "Pro" (paid them money to lose to top shooters) learned a whole lot. This is 50 years ago and that is how long I believed the reloading myth, thank you
You’re most welcome!
I do believe when a shotshell ruptures, it often will split at the brasline. So if your shooting high pressure loads, the high brass does a better job at containing the initial detonation of the powder charge and prevents a case from potentially rupturing before the shot has a chance to move which helps to reduce pressure at the failure point and the subsequent amount of blowback the shooter experiences.
This video changed my mind.
Low brass shells would stick in the chambers of my semi-automatic gas operated Browning Shotguns. Strange behavior. Never any problems otherwise with using low brass in pump actions, inertia action Benelli. or break action.
What model gas operated Browning shotguns?
@@1nfamyX , Gold 12 GA
A pump will eat anything.
Wow some awesome info to know! I have to admit I was told the other when I was younger and just believed it. Great to know!
Happy to help! Stay tuned for more shotshell content!
Also depends on what your loading. I prefer high brass for my heavy hitters. I like magnum power
It is true though in guns where it matters high brass does feed more reliably
It’s always been my understanding that high brass is usually hotter shells. Or so u can look an easily see the more powerful shells
I haven’t been able to use high brass in most shotguns without polishing out the chamber, since the brass expands and gets stuck in there. Low brass with smooth hull is my 1st pick for reliability.
There used to be shells that were no brass. They were as reloadable as the others. Brass like he said is a carryover for the old paper shell days.
Great Information… I was wondering if there was a difference, because slugs have high brass
Would like to see a video on Fiocchi vs federal and so on. Why difference in loading data
Learned something new thks.
You’re welcome!
Finally well explained
Thank you!
Some semi auto shotguns don’t function with low brass so it’s not nonsense and it does matter
It's kinda off the gauge shells topic but. Could you tell about reloading aluminum or steel cases, why almost everyone says that such cases cannot be reloaded?
I’d love to! Both “can” be reloaded, however they do have downsides. Aluminum has a low case life before they actually fail, and steel requires a hydraulic depriming method to knock the primers out (because berdan instead of boxer priming system) and then wears out dies a lot faster because it’s steel on steel contact with high abrasion.
During WW2 both the German and U.S. airforces experimented-with aluminum cased ammo as a way to reduce weight of the ammo. It was discovered that throat erosion was greatly accelerated by ionization of the aluminum case and the barrel steel, which then reacted in a thermitic reaction.During the tests reactions were sometimes severe enough to burn the barrel, as if a cutting torch had been used which eventually resulted in the tests being terminated.For those who are not familiar with Thermite it is a mixture of aluminum powder and ferric oxide which is used to burn or weld steel. Thermite is also used in incendiarybombs.
Steel cases can easily be reloaded same as brass if they are boxer primed.
The high brass is for pressure. It’s main purpose is for cycling in semi-auto shotguns.
People always assume high brass has more powder. Not always the case. I bought some really high dram Kent's once. Pheasant loads and they would kicked the snot out of ya. Would knock the safety back on my Ruger Red Label
You can re load either and can put a high velocity or baby magnum load in low brass or turn high brass into field loads. The brass has nothing to do with strength. The chamber reinforces case.
Good job with that
Only difference is the way they eject. I have had far less ejection issues using high brass shells
I only reload high brass for my self defense rounds or duck and goose hunting
High brass is better for open shotguns cuz the low brass jams trying to eject
If you can stick a primer in it u can reload it believe me 🤣
Full brass shells.
Now THOSE are fun and extremely easy to reload.
Would love to experiment with some!
For a AK platform style Shotgun, High Brass feeds much better
Maybe that’s how you reload your rounds but I reload my rounds with low powder for low brass and more powder for high brass 👌
Can you do that? Yes. Do you have to do that? Any shotshell reloading manual will tell you no.
I only use all brass like a real shooter
I only reload low brass AA and rem STS shells. #thebest!
Just garbage bags full off AA hulls. Most shooters have no idea. (Target sporting clay ranges)
Can you load buckshot and slugs in low brass safely?
Thanks
External magazines, like my Saiga are difficult to load with low brass. Anyone else experience this?
Any particular reason why? Are you getting the rim caught on the top of the brass when loading the next round, or?
@@thereloadingcraft you nailed it brother. The high brass don't hang up because where the shells enter the magazine.
To be honest it's a fun novelty shotgun that I don't shoot much.
My go to range/skeet gun is an inexpensive Tristar. It works and I don't worry about it like my Browning. Plus my Tristar just extracts. I don't have to clean up or step on ejected spent shells.
How many times can you reload a cartridge? Like how many times can you recrimp the fronts?
I wouldn't go as far as to call it 'nonsense'. The higher brass (actually steel nowadays) is no longer needed to physically contain the pressure, but it is still used as a visual cue that it is a stouter load
It's true that it's not really relevant as far as reloading is concerned though.
Correct, almost. Some loads (like Win AA) actually do still use brass, not steel for the base. Other than that, I agree for the most part!
@@thereloadingcraft I happen to have a box of Winchester AA, and you're right, they are brass. I thought at first they were steel, but the I realized the magnet was sticking to the primer.
I learned something new today, thanks!
What reloadong manual is that? I cant seem to find any up to date 12 gauge manuals
Just read your comment on Lyman's Shotshell Reloader manual. Do you have any manual/book recommendations for reloading cartridges?
The manual on my shotgun states high brass. It's a semi-auto so I'm wondering if ejecting is and issue with the low brass for semi-auto shotguns.
Ive always thought the high brass had a larger powder charge, hence the high brass so it doesnt blow out the plastic onto the chamber walls. But its the same acrosd both then?
In the paper hull days it was there to keep the powder from burning through the hull on initial ignition. The pressure is contained by the chamber, and doesn’t matter whether it’s plastic or brass or paper.
Low brass has not been any less withstanding than high brass. I feel the low brass shells actually have the "brass" (actually a brass washed steel cup) crimped on better than high brass shells. Basically, better quality control on the low brass. Loaded both to maximum, and probably over a little , hah , they both have about the same usage out of em before they're not worth reloading anymore.
I prefer the look of low brass so if I HAD SOME MONEY that's what I would buy
Show us how to cut the shell correctly ⁉️ for more effective use
I don’t mess with cut shells, especially in a shotgun with a tighter choke. If you want slugs, load slugs. If you want bird shot, load bird shot.
Same powder amount in each?
Please expand on this topic.
Are you thinking more shorts videos, or a long format video?
What Manuel are you using and does it have steel shot load data for 20 gauge 2/3?
Great videos 👍 As I’m getting more into trap I’m looking at getting myself a reloader, would you recommend getting the Mec 600jr or save up a bit longer and get a progressive like the Mec 9000?
That’s a great question! Both are widely used and top notch machines, I would split them down as follows:
The 9000 obviously has a higher production rate being a progressive press, however it is going to be more expensive, and it helps if you’re mechanically inclined to fine tune the adjustments.
The 600 JR is a bit cheaper of course, but significsntly slower. If you’re only loading a few boxes a week the 600 JR is fine, but if you’re shooting s couple hundred round per week, the 9000 is definitely the way to go if you can swing it for price.
They’re both excellent machines, I’d say from there it would just come down to preference and your needs!
@@thereloadingcraft thanks for the advice, one other question I had for ya. I’m canadian and a big brand for shells out here is Challenger which I have a lot of empty hulls from. I read that challenger uses Cheddite hulls so I was wondering if you have any experience reloading cheddites and how they stand up?
Cheddites are pretty common, I haven’t reloaded them personally (mostly Win AA’s myself) but know that quite a few people do. Your best resource there (as far as personal experience and such) is going to be some of the shotgunner’s forums, like shotgun world and such. Here is a quick one I found- www.trapshooters.com/threads/anybody-loading-challenger-12-ga-hulls.916350/
My RIA semiauto 12 guage VR80
Will not cycle low brass shells. They get hung up when ejecting.
I have had low brass shell fail to fire
Any shell type can have failures to fire
Are both shells equally as durable like can you reload more so with the longer brass shells than the shorter ones without them braking?
Provided they’re a quality hull, there is no difference.
The only difference between high brass and low brass now a days is semi automatic shotguns favor high brass due to higher pressures that cycle the action
The brass has nothing to do with the pressure loading, it’s how the internal base wad is designed and what pressure the shell is loaded to. A quality low brass hull with the same base wad design as a quality high brass hull of the same manufacturer can be loaded to virtually identical pressures.
Right i heard some fool say that the other day. I was like we reloaded thousands of those when i was helping my dad as a kid.
It never ceases to amaze me how people with little to no experience, research, or study about guns and ammo try to tell people such as myself, the "facts" that aren't "facts" at all. My favorite is how the enemy guns would shoot "our" ammo but ours wouldn't shoot "theirs". High brass vs low brass is only useful for confusing people that are too lazy to read up on the subject just like was shown here in the shotshell loading guide. I kind of blame the confusion on the ammo makers for somewhat using ignorance and confusion about high brass vs low brass as a marketing ploy as well. I just bought three boxes of .410 shotshells and Federal thought it "necessary" to use the words "high brass" in addition to the actual useful information regarding length, payload weight, and velocity on the box as a selling point. Selling by confusion is not really cool.
@@johnnorman7708 yeah but u know that all the uneducated people would pay $10 more for the box just cause it says high brass. I loved to use a 410 back when my family was still alive we use to rabbit hunt/ pheasant hunt almost every weekend on the farm in season with all the beagles out running around such good memories. But my dad also shot competitive skeet so that was prob when he started loading his own shells well before my time. I do recall a couple of hopped up boxes my dad had made up like 10 one rainy Saturday and we had like a 5 or 6 stage press and my dad would pull the lever to pop out the primer then slide it over pop in the new one drop the powder then the wad then it came to my side and i would pull it out after the bb's all fell in then cone it and crimp it.. but when we did that process the first 8 boxes were perfect and something happened with the last 2 boxes concerning the powder cause these puppies would slam the pump back after the trigger was pulled cause of the overweight powder amount. All u had to do was slide the pump back foward to load another cause it was ejecting itself after the trigger pull. That was some unintentional high brass. Took us a couple years to get to those 2 boxes so it happened more then once cause we moved to the actual farm house and my dad had things in order so he was shooting the oldest shells first but things got discombulated unpacking and didnt know which box they came out of and every now and then someone would find out they had a hot one. Was more like shooting a 10 gauge then a 12. It would slap that action open and seat the pump all the way back shell out new one sitting ready to slam back in just was crazy memory thought id share sorry was so long. Hope u had a good weekend buddy regardless have a good monday tmrw.
It makes all the difference for Reloading slim aa and blue magics are far better you can get mabe 12 reloads per hull and federal papers aren't to bad .I like 8 crimp better than 6 crimp myself
What is the manual? I’d love to get my hands on one!
Lyman Shotshell manual 👌🏻
What book is that?
Lyman Shotshell Reloader’s manual, widely regarded as the best shotshell reloading manual on the current market today.
Which book is that???
Doesn’t low brass mean less powder than the high brass?
Ok how about Black Powder, low or high brass
All I know is low brass WILL NOT run reliably in any of my semi-auto shotguns. Obviously they’re perfectly fine in my pump guns though.
“Low brass” can mean anything from cheap underpowered bulk pack garbage to hot Win AA handicap target loads that will cycle pretty much anything. What loads were you using?
What about the mini brass shells (not minishells)?
I have no experience with them, although I would love to learn
I had a question on shot shell reloading and I was wondering if a reloading press can do any gauge or only on size
It depends on the machine, I believe you can get gauge change die sets for the 600JR and convert between some of them.
I though the higher brass was because it had more propelent.
Ok how about using Black Powder, low or high brass, or does it really matter??
Not sure as I don’t load black powder shotshells
All that being said, do you think hi brass tend to feed more reliably in semi autos?
It depends what you’re comparing them to. A high quality high brass vs a low quality poverty-tier low brass, yeah sure because the rim and head on the low brass will be of a poorer quality. If you’re running a good-power level low brass in a quality hull, I have seen no difference.
@@thereloadingcraft perfect thanks 👍
So there is no powder differents? I can put the same amount in both?
Assuming a quality hull for both, AND the internal geometry/volume is the same, AND you’re following published load data, yes in a lot of cases.
I have noticed that almost all shotgun shells today are brass plated steel. These stick in one of my shotguns after 4 shots. The real brass shells work fine.
Win AA’s are actually full brass, not brass plated steel.
High brass looks cooler 💪
Only difference is if it's full brass or not.
Good old cowboy action shells!
@@thereloadingcraft well, the polymer or card board can only take so much, brass, takes a lot more. and if wanting mroe power behind shot is cowboy action, then yee fucking haw! XD
Will the hold the same amount of powder
If the internal geometry is the same. Brass height means nothing, it’s how the base wad is set up in the hull.
Serious question and I'm pretty sure it's a no but I'm not sure and want advise from someone who does this often but can I reload the hulls with aluminum instead of brass? I know you can't reload things like pistol round made of aluminum but everything is a little different if you read all that I appreciate your time and if you respond I'll probably love you for ever and even subscribe
Do you mean an entirely aluminum hull, or one with an aluminum base? Also you “can” reload aluminum pistol ammo, you just won’t get very many reloads before the case is worn out.
@@thereloadingcraft a plastic hull with an aluminum base lol sorry should have specified
No worries! Provided you can find load data for them, I wouldn’t see why not. As others have said it’s the chamber that holds the pressure, the hull just has to be a gas seal and extract reliably.
I thought it was the high brass had more kick
So just to be clear, I can pack buckshot hot in the low brass? It makes NO DIFFERENCE?
As long as the internal hull geometry is designed to handle it, and a load manual confirms it, yes. The internal geometry (base wad and case head thickness) are the parts that matter, not the brass height.
DON’T take some cheap bulk pack hull and expect to load it stout though, they aren’t designed to handle the pressure like a quality hull is. My personal favorites are Win AA, Nitro STS’s, or Remington Gun club’s.
@@thereloadingcraft I have been firing then reloading spent Federal, Winchester and Filocchi Slug Hulls with 00 Buckshot. I gauge how much powder by cutting one open, weighing the powder starting with half charge from the original and going all the way up to 10% extra. I haven't experienced any catastrophic failures, but it would be nice if I could also start reloading old bird shot hulls as I had been told I needed high brass shells before
You can load buckshot just fine in good low brass hulls, and I know several people that do it.
Follow published load data, don’t play around with charge weights with shotshell like you can with metallic cartridge loading. The failure pressures for shotshell are much lower, and something as small as changing hulls can mean different internal volume and different pressure curves. Stick to published load data is all I can warn you to do, going outside that on shotshell loading is a dangerous game.
If there really is no difference, then why do are both still made? And why does buckshot or slugs not come in low brass shells?
Because it a stereotype and carry over that consumers think "high brass means MOH POWAH" and manufacturing has continued with the uneducated consumer in mind. The other reason is that high brass is easier to stack into a vertical magazine because you don't have the rim of the new shell trying to slide over the rim-hull body intersection on the previously loaded round. A lot of it is just carryover convention from years past.
www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/articleindex/articles/curmudgeon_articles/060124_hulls_in_general.htm
Read the article above for more info if you'd like.
the future is now old man
My semi auto only functions properly with high brass , will not function at all with low brass 🙁
Are you using GOOD low brass loads (not light target stuff) from a reputable mfg? I have yet to find a shotgun that won’t cycle a good box of Win AA handicap loads
I prefer high brass cause it’s sexier
Isn’t low brass typically lower FPS though? And high brass considered to be loaded with a higher FPS?
Manufacturers have done that as a matter of convention, really. Buyers are use to looking at a box of shells, seeing “high brass” and thinking “ooo its magnums” essentially. In terms of reloadability, high brass vs low brass makes no difference if the hull is quality.
@@thereloadingcraft gotch ya I appreciate the knowledge always looking to learn new things 🤙🏼
Absolutely, and I appreciate the questions! Definitely still learning myself, but happy to pass along what I’ve learned along the way.
High brass run better in semis especially cheap ones
High brass vs low brass is not nonsense, a SAS chambered in 3" will not cycle right with 2 ¾ low brass shot shells.
But a high brass 2¾ will. Act accordingly.
Try a hot low brass like a Win AA handicap load. It’s not the brass, it’s how warm it’s loaded that depends on if it cycles or not.
Part 2