I followed your directions that best I could. The CV light stays lit up. I’m breaking in on 1V with 5A I don’t see my power supply acting like yours. What am I doing wrong?
You can test at whatever voltage you prefer. Most of the racers around here, and the motor tuners use 3v as their preferred test voltage. If I ask a local guy, how’s your motor? They usually answer it’s X amps at 3.0v. I can’t say when or how it originated, but there is merit in testing at higher volts.
I made the mistake of doing 20 minutes with a Tamiya Sport Tuned and wore out the brushes. They’re softer apparently and a lot of these tutorials don’t mention that. So be careful and check for your motor time limits!
Good advice. Always watch for the voltage to start to rise and then cut it off. The 540’s seem to break-in and pull 1.6-1.8 amps at 3 volts when broken-in
I used your break in method on a new motor and picked up .2 per lap. What is the best way to clean my motor after Im back home ? I searched through your videos on motor maintenance and only found the one where they say not to use the crc spray on the motor? Should I run it through water again since Im at home and not at the track? Thanks for this video, I bought the same power supply, used your method, and new motor turned 3.6 amps at 3 volts.
Wow. That’s awesome to hear a success story! Thanks for posting. Yes, that video on motor cleaning is a new idea that I wasn’t aware of, until we talked to Dave. We do have another video on motor break-in and they get into maintenance a little bit. There are so many methods to cleaning, I may have to do a video going into all the popular methods and see which ones do work. But, I’d say, 5-10 minute water bath and check the voltage/amps before and after to see the difference.
@BloodlineRC I followed the video and got to 4.2A. Ran a race later that day (practice, qualify, heat, LCQ, feature ) and am now reading 2.4A. Do you know why this happened? Thanks!
@@aaronreilly2435 it probably needs a cleaning after being run hard all day. Also, how hot did the motor run? With the outdoor temps in the high 90’s here it would be possible to cook a brushed motor in one race day. Take a look at the commutator and see if it’s still shiny or if it has a lot of carbon build up. If there is a lot of carbon, you can clean that off with an eraser and commutator cleaning sticks while blowing it out with compressed air and using some electrical cleaner.
The battery run time is inconsequential for our use. We already have battery life to spare for competition. But a more efficient motor could increase run time. The main issue with running a brushed motor, before break-in, it will degrade the motor enough, it’s potential will be reduced once we do a break-in. And testing a comparable brushed motor, production variances have such inconsistent performance, you couldn’t compare one brushed motor to the other to make a true comparison. We’d really have to do a large sample size to compare. Amp draw and voltage, or a true dyno, are the only methods we have for testing on a bench to give any consistent results. It’s good points though.
The difference between a broken in motor and a non-broken in motor is pretty significant. Also, it helps to increase the life-span of a motor. Especially with a fan and proper gearing, to make sure you don’t overheat it. One thing to make sure, if you turn the motor by hand, always turn counterclockwise. In the car, we can’t use reverse in a race, so that helps. But a spin can cause the motor to go backwards. This can break the end of the brush, then you May experience arcing and the motor may not perform as it once did. It happens though, and you can try to clean the commutator and rebreak in the motor. Or you might have to bite the bullet and get a new motor. For bashing, I wouldn’t be overly concerned. Since getting the most power out of the motor isn’t the main concern, having fun is.
@@BloodlineRC But in some cars the motor sits backwards so i dont see where the difference is what way you turn it, the brushes dont care what way it turns.
@@sstrickland8089 I don’t know what a 35t would look like for a best case scenario. But for a 35t, I’d think you are trying to maximize the life span of the motor
After watching your other video, I got a power supply and have been breaking them in at 3V and the amps set to 10. So what is the voltage set to when the amps are set to 5?
Once you set the Amp @ 5, the voltage will take care of itself. What you watch for is the voltage to rise as your motor breaks in. There are two ways you can adjust current to the motor, with AmpS or volts. When you set one adjustment, the other adjustment finds it’s own place. If you need help reach out and I’ll be glad to help
Got it. Looks like. Once it is booked up, then adjust amps. I am going to limit my volts to 3V to start. I also have been putting commentator drops on when I store the motors as well as some more bushing lube, is that suitable for storage?
I have watched this several times and went through the comments because I have never done this before, bought the power supply suggested but it has more features than the power supply in the video and the instructions are junk don’t explain anything in how to use. I tried what was suggested in the video and don’t think it worked, for my final check at 3v my motor pulled .9 amps. I set the amps to 5. Amps and then have to set the voltage to 1.2 before it turns on, and the amps goes up and down 1.7-2.0 while I did the break in. I’m not sure if I am doing this correctly to get the results seen in the video.
@@nikolajc7617 you can run the motor in any direction you want. But once you pick a direction, stick with it! The edges of the brushes do conform to the direction the commutator turns. Once it’s broken in, running the opposite direction may chip the brush and ruin performance. Not a big deal for a basher, but competitive racing events, it is a big deal
so im trying to do this, i put a brand new motor in and the voltage wont go above 1.9V with my powersupply amps maxed out at 10 amps. am i doing something wrong?
If you are using the same power supply I am, zero out all the knobs. Connect the motor, turn the volts (coarse) all the way up. Then start adding in amps (coarse) the motor should start to rev up really high and then you can adjust the voltage up or down with the coarse voltage adjustment. Let me know how it goes and we can go from there
@@zleader99 the 10am has more power than you need. Once you start running it at its limits (5 amps constantly on a 5amp) it’s possible it may not be able to hit 5amps under load due to resistance and at its limit, it could over heat and shut down. Some of the low amp motor analyzers can’t run sustained loads at their limit, so always better to have extra power and not need to use it.
I’m breaking in using 5 amps, and not by volts. Use the voltage as a measure of when the motor breaks in. Once volts start to rise, pull the motor. At 5amps, the motor starts at .8-.9 volts and when done is usually in the 1.2-1.5 ranges. Stop break-in as soon as the volts stop rising.
im currently breaking in a motor myself. do you pull the motor as soon as the volts start to raise or when the volts hold steady and then begin to drop again?@@BloodlineRC
@@vernwoodard9225 as soon as they start to rise. Once that happens, the motor is getting close to its peak and as you run it, it will ‘finish’ the break-in process. So, break it in, but leave a little on the table for when you start racing it. Good luck and let me know the results.
There is a difference between bushing and bearing oil. So try not to use bearing oil with these motors. You can try 3-in-1 oil. But it does not last long and may need constant piling between rounds
Thanks Brian. I want to get a video discussion that covers maintenance, caring, and a multitude of different aspects of brushed motors. This one, I wanted to keep it as a sister piece to our longer video, with Jim, about brushed motor break-in. So, if you have questions, send them!
Was a poor boy, did mine like this with extended leads to a jar. ruclips.net/video/w0r-xCHiWt4/видео.html Afterwards completely flushed the motor with spray, then soaked the bearings with oil for a while standing it on end for each side individually. You can use zoom spout turbine oil I guess, the motor companies made oil then, thinking Trinity, Reedy etc along with spray and comm sticks. I'm not recommending, just remembering.
The good old days, right? One of our racers made comm sticks for these motors. It’s not as easy to clean as old motors with removable brushes, but it works.
@@BeatniksVids I hope to cover comm sticks real soon. One of our local racers came up with comm sticks for cleaning and maintenance of these sealed motors. If you got a few weeks to wait, we will touch on that. But congratulations on the new purchase !
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you. I was looking for this information. Much appreciated.
I followed your directions that best I could. The CV light stays lit up. I’m breaking in on 1V with 5A
I don’t see my power supply acting like yours. What am I doing wrong?
What about that BloodlineRC bearing & bushing oil?
Why is the final test only at 3 volts? The battery used in the rc car isxa 2 cell lipo 7.4 volts to 8.4 volts. Thanks for the help, love the video.
You can test at whatever voltage you prefer. Most of the racers around here, and the motor tuners use 3v as their preferred test voltage.
If I ask a local guy, how’s your motor? They usually answer it’s X amps at 3.0v.
I can’t say when or how it originated, but there is merit in testing at higher volts.
Thanks for your response. Great videos.
@@RodEvens thank you! Glad it helps
I made the mistake of doing 20 minutes with a Tamiya Sport Tuned and wore out the brushes. They’re softer apparently and a lot of these tutorials don’t mention that. So be careful and check for your motor time limits!
Good advice. Always watch for the voltage to start to rise and then cut it off.
The 540’s seem to break-in and pull 1.6-1.8 amps at 3 volts when broken-in
3:57 we should listen
I used your break in method on a new motor and picked up .2 per lap. What is the best way to clean my motor after Im back home ? I searched through your videos on motor maintenance and only found the one where they say not to use the crc spray on the motor? Should I run it through water again since Im at home and not at the track? Thanks for this video, I bought the same power supply, used your method, and new motor turned 3.6 amps at 3 volts.
Wow. That’s awesome to hear a success story! Thanks for posting.
Yes, that video on motor cleaning is a new idea that I wasn’t aware of, until we talked to Dave.
We do have another video on motor break-in and they get into maintenance a little bit.
There are so many methods to cleaning, I may have to do a video going into all the popular methods and see which ones do work.
But, I’d say, 5-10 minute water bath and check the voltage/amps before and after to see the difference.
@@BloodlineRC Thanks for the info and look forward to watching more of your videos
What song is that?
Good work!
@BloodlineRC I followed the video and got to 4.2A. Ran a race later that day (practice, qualify, heat, LCQ, feature ) and am now reading 2.4A. Do you know why this happened? Thanks!
@@aaronreilly2435 it probably needs a cleaning after being run hard all day. Also, how hot did the motor run? With the outdoor temps in the high 90’s here it would be possible to cook a brushed motor in one race day.
Take a look at the commutator and see if it’s still shiny or if it has a lot of carbon build up.
If there is a lot of carbon, you can clean that off with an eraser and commutator cleaning sticks while blowing it out with compressed air and using some electrical cleaner.
Higher draw on the battery = lower run time, shame you didn't do a before and after speed test
The battery run time is inconsequential for our use. We already have battery life to spare for competition. But a more efficient motor could increase run time.
The main issue with running a brushed motor, before break-in, it will degrade the motor enough, it’s potential will be reduced once we do a break-in. And testing a comparable brushed motor, production variances have such inconsistent performance, you couldn’t compare one brushed motor to the other to make a true comparison. We’d really have to do a large sample size to compare. Amp draw and voltage, or a true dyno, are the only methods we have for testing on a bench to give any consistent results.
It’s good points though.
What difference does it make? How do you turn the motor? Don’t let cars go in reverse?
The difference between a broken in motor and a non-broken in motor is pretty significant. Also, it helps to increase the life-span of a motor. Especially with a fan and proper gearing, to make sure you don’t overheat it.
One thing to make sure, if you turn the motor by hand, always turn counterclockwise. In the car, we can’t use reverse in a race, so that helps. But a spin can cause the motor to go backwards. This can break the end of the brush, then you May experience arcing and the motor may not perform as it once did. It happens though, and you can try to clean the commutator and rebreak in the motor. Or you might have to bite the bullet and get a new motor.
For bashing, I wouldn’t be overly concerned. Since getting the most power out of the motor isn’t the main concern, having fun is.
@@BloodlineRC But in some cars the motor sits backwards so i dont see where the difference is what way you turn it, the brushes dont care what way it turns.
Can you post a link to buy the power supply box.
Thank you
Sure. Check out the description and there is a link to get it from Amazon.
@@BloodlineRC Can you send me the link that's why I asked
How can you tell which motor direction is? Which way?
Hook the motor up to red to red, black to black to either an esc or power supply and make note of the direction. Typically it is counter clockwise
Does this method work on all turn brushed motor?
@@sstrickland8089 yep. Any brushed motor. Just the final output will be different due to the power created by the number of windings
What do I need to look for on a 35T
@@sstrickland8089 I don’t know what a 35t would look like for a best case scenario. But for a 35t, I’d think you are trying to maximize the life span of the motor
We run a spec legends class with this motor. Some guys are definitely faster than other. Looking for ideas. Thanks for the help.
@@sstrickland8089 ahhh. Yeah. About the best thing to do is pick up a few motors and see how they turn out
After watching your other video, I got a power supply and have been breaking them in at 3V and the amps set to 10. So what is the voltage set to when the amps are set to 5?
Once you set the Amp @ 5, the voltage will take care of itself. What you watch for is the voltage to rise as your motor breaks in.
There are two ways you can adjust current to the motor, with AmpS or volts. When you set one adjustment, the other adjustment finds it’s own place.
If you need help reach out and I’ll be glad to help
Got it. Looks like. Once it is booked up, then adjust amps. I am going to limit my volts to 3V to start. I also have been putting commentator drops on when I store the motors as well as some more bushing lube, is that suitable for storage?
@@curtiscochran6191 I’m not sure about the comm drops. The bushing oil, yes. The comm drops I would wait until you are ready to make a run
I have watched this several times and went through the comments because I have never done this before, bought the power supply suggested but it has more features than the power supply in the video and the instructions are junk don’t explain anything in how to use. I tried what was suggested in the video and don’t think it worked, for my final check at 3v my motor pulled .9 amps. I set the amps to 5. Amps and then have to set the voltage to 1.2 before it turns on, and the amps goes up and down 1.7-2.0 while I did the break in. I’m not sure if I am doing this correctly to get the results seen in the video.
Same my dude
Do you not need the power supply on constant current for the voltage to be able to rise?
It will switch back and forth while breaking it in as it starts to draw more power
What the heck are the difference between forward and backwards in an electric motor?????
@@nikolajc7617 you can run the motor in any direction you want. But once you pick a direction, stick with it!
The edges of the brushes do conform to the direction the commutator turns. Once it’s broken in, running the opposite direction may chip the brush and ruin performance.
Not a big deal for a basher, but competitive racing events, it is a big deal
so im trying to do this, i put a brand new motor in and the voltage wont go above 1.9V with my powersupply amps maxed out at 10 amps. am i doing something wrong?
If you are using the same power supply I am, zero out all the knobs. Connect the motor, turn the volts (coarse) all the way up. Then start adding in amps (coarse) the motor should start to rev up really high and then you can adjust the voltage up or down with the coarse voltage adjustment.
Let me know how it goes and we can go from there
Thank you 😎🦾
Will this motor fit into the rapid q130 rc truck?
I couldn’t say for sure. But it looks 1/16 scale, so I would say no
Nice vid👌
Which power supply do I need from Amazon ? The 10A or 5A?
The 10 amp is the one you want. Check out the link in the description and either that one or something similar
@@BloodlineRC awesome thank you
maybe i missed it. whats the advantage of the 5amp over the 10amp? Thank you
@@zleader99 the 10am has more power than you need. Once you start running it at its limits (5 amps constantly on a 5amp) it’s possible it may not be able to hit 5amps under load due to resistance and at its limit, it could over heat and shut down.
Some of the low amp motor analyzers can’t run sustained loads at their limit, so always better to have extra power and not need to use it.
@BloodlineRC Thank you for all your help. Glad i found your channel. I have been trying to sqeeze preformance out-of sport tuned tamiya brushed motor.
What volts do you break it in at? 3v?
I’m breaking in using 5 amps, and not by volts. Use the voltage as a measure of when the motor breaks in. Once volts start to rise, pull the motor.
At 5amps, the motor starts at .8-.9 volts and when done is usually in the 1.2-1.5 ranges. Stop break-in as soon as the volts stop rising.
im currently breaking in a motor myself. do you pull the motor as soon as the volts start to raise or when the volts hold steady and then begin to drop again?@@BloodlineRC
@@vernwoodard9225 as soon as they start to rise. Once that happens, the motor is getting close to its peak and as you run it, it will ‘finish’ the break-in process. So, break it in, but leave a little on the table for when you start racing it. Good luck and let me know the results.
thank you will do! and you suggest 5 amps for break in correct?@@BloodlineRC
@@vernwoodard9225 yep. Go with 5amps. You don’t want the motor turning a lot of rpm’s during break-in
Great ! video but i do not do it like this i think switch to brushless motor it's easy way for me.
A lot of people go that route because it is more cost effective. For our class, brushed motors are the spec
what the hell is bushing oil?
There is a difference between bushing and bearing oil. So try not to use bearing oil with these motors. You can try 3-in-1 oil. But it does not last long and may need constant piling between rounds
Good tutorial giys
Thanks Brian. I want to get a video discussion that covers maintenance, caring, and a multitude of different aspects of brushed motors.
This one, I wanted to keep it as a sister piece to our longer video, with Jim, about brushed motor break-in.
So, if you have questions, send them!
Was a poor boy, did mine like this with extended leads to a jar.
ruclips.net/video/w0r-xCHiWt4/видео.html
Afterwards completely flushed the motor with spray, then soaked the bearings with oil for a while standing it on end for each side individually. You can use zoom spout turbine oil I guess, the motor companies made oil then, thinking Trinity, Reedy etc along with spray and comm sticks.
I'm not recommending, just remembering.
The good old days, right? One of our racers made comm sticks for these motors. It’s not as easy to clean as old motors with removable brushes, but it works.
@@BloodlineRC I've just picked up one of the spec slash tucks, need to look at the motor and brainstorm for comm cleaning.
@@BeatniksVids I hope to cover comm sticks real soon. One of our local racers came up with comm sticks for cleaning and maintenance of these sealed motors. If you got a few weeks to wait, we will touch on that.
But congratulations on the new purchase !
@@BloodlineRC I'll be watching