Weirdly, my bike mechanic just showed me how chains wear laterally. I’ve been waxing my chains and pin-to-pin wear has all but disappeared, but lateral wear is still there and I didn’t even know it existed until literally a week ago. Hmmm… I think Google is spying on me - how else would it know that I needed this? For what it’s worth, I immediately went to your site and bought one of these things.
Look when this was uploaded, it wasn't Google spying on you and only now showing you this video, it was Abbey who first placed this idea in your head and a week later publishes a new tool to fix it! :)
@@utube7930 no, I use a 2x and I’m guilty of occasionally cross chaining. I plan to be more careful about that now, especially since my experience with waxing has shown that the best chain to use, at least forSTAM, is the Red chain. This is because it comes with far less factory lube and is much easier to clean up before waxing so I get better results. So, given that that is the top-of-the-line and most expensive chain, I’d rather be careful and save the money. I have never worn out a Red chain after waxing it (and we are talking 4000+ km). I wasn’t very clear in my post; the worn out chain was probably already worn out laterally when I waxed it in the first place. The mistake I made was to only measure the pin-to-pin distance without understanding that there was lateral wear as well.
Tool manufacturers developing all kinds of creative ways to convince you that you need to buy a new chain. I work as a bicycle mechanic but I don't take chain wear seriously unless there is a problem, such as skipping or excessive noise. I ride my own chains into the ground, far exceeding the "1" measurement on many chain wear indicators, and then I keep riding them some more. When I replace the chain I replace the cassette too, which is why all of my bikes are 10 speed or less to keep costs low. And I load my worn chains significantly, low gears on a fully loaded touring bike, or steep climbs while mountain biking. They don't fail me.
Running the entire drivetrain into the ground and replace it all at once can be a cost effective option for older equipment. When cassettes can cost $400 the economics are in favor of more frequent chain replacement. But you do you. We also aren't in the business of selling chains, so it's not like we have anything to gain by anyone replacing them more frequently.
I ride a single speed using a normal MTB frame and an old derailleur as a tensioner. The rings are steel front and back. It's been using the same old chain for over 2 years now. Chain wear is only an issue for those using expensive cassettes and chainrings. Manufacturers love increasing cost, reducing durability and making spares hard to source.
I ride 7 or 8 speed most of the time, a typical inexpensive KMC chain is "spent" after 6 months or so, I keep riding them anyway. I actually think there is more durability in some of the 10/11/12 speed stuff because of efforts made to ensure 6/7/8/9 won't hold up as well. That said, a chain and cassette costs me less than $60, compared to the $600 for SRAM Eagle, so I'm not crying in the slightest.
wouldn't different size rollers be positioned at different heights in the V shape notch causing the chain to be positioned at different offsets to the holes? what am I missing?
Is lateral wear only supposed to be measured at the ends of the chain? I get very different results when I measure in the middle because of the weight of the chain pulling down on the links extending past that shelf on the tool. Results vary similarly if I measure at the end of the chain but press down on the links that extend beyond the shelf (the way Adam does in the Zero Friction Cycling RUclips video where he talks about the new Abbey LL chain wear checker).
The instructions that are engraved on the tool say to extend 5 links from the boss and then take your reading. To clarify, those 5 links need to be on the end of the chain. As you noted, extra links means extra mass and it will throw off the reading by a significant amount.
@@abbeybiketools Thanks for clarifying this. Obviously, then, it’s a mistake to measure at the end of the chain and press down with a finger on the 5 links extending beyond the boss. You might want to urge Adam at ZFC to include a correction in his weekly video. He has tons of followers who are the type to buy a tool like yours and then, based on seeing Adam use the tool wrong, will find all their chains to be at or beyond the lateral wear mark on your tool.
I was thinking of buying one of these: however, USD$137 freight to Australia is just freaking ridiculous; 3 x the cost of the tool itself. Or are you only wanting to sell to the US? The Connex tool costs AUD$20, and $12 to send it from Germany. Who's go the better deal for me?
The threshold for replacement varies a little from one chain model to another so it's not something we can build into the tool. .75% is a pretty good place for 10spd or newer chains. Some people like .5% for 12spd and above though.
@@abbeybiketools while on the bike, could you not just take the chain off the chainring (to the inside or out), and use that slack to put it on the tool?
![[Special Clip] ATEEZ(에이티즈) 홍중 'Why Do You Love'](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I6XYXQKN_pY/mqdefault.jpg)
Love every day you guys come up with a new tool!
Weirdly, my bike mechanic just showed me how chains wear laterally. I’ve been waxing my chains and pin-to-pin wear has all but disappeared, but lateral wear is still there and I didn’t even know it existed until literally a week ago. Hmmm… I think Google is spying on me - how else would it know that I needed this? For what it’s worth, I immediately went to your site and bought one of these things.
Are you using a 1x chainring?
Look when this was uploaded, it wasn't Google spying on you and only now showing you this video, it was Abbey who first placed this idea in your head and a week later publishes a new tool to fix it!
:)
@@utube7930 no, I use a 2x and I’m guilty of occasionally cross chaining. I plan to be more careful about that now, especially since my experience with waxing has shown that the best chain to use, at least forSTAM, is the Red chain. This is because it comes with far less factory lube and is much easier to clean up before waxing so I get better results. So, given that that is the top-of-the-line and most expensive chain, I’d rather be careful and save the money. I have never worn out a Red chain after waxing it (and we are talking 4000+ km). I wasn’t very clear in my post; the worn out chain was probably already worn out laterally when I waxed it in the first place. The mistake I made was to only measure the pin-to-pin distance without understanding that there was lateral wear as well.
Tool manufacturers developing all kinds of creative ways to convince you that you need to buy a new chain. I work as a bicycle mechanic but I don't take chain wear seriously unless there is a problem, such as skipping or excessive noise. I ride my own chains into the ground, far exceeding the "1" measurement on many chain wear indicators, and then I keep riding them some more. When I replace the chain I replace the cassette too, which is why all of my bikes are 10 speed or less to keep costs low.
And I load my worn chains significantly, low gears on a fully loaded touring bike, or steep climbs while mountain biking. They don't fail me.
Running the entire drivetrain into the ground and replace it all at once can be a cost effective option for older equipment. When cassettes can cost $400 the economics are in favor of more frequent chain replacement. But you do you. We also aren't in the business of selling chains, so it's not like we have anything to gain by anyone replacing them more frequently.
So simple, but so smart! 👏
Been waiting for this one for a while. Ordered!
Awesome. Ordering one today!
Nice job guys!
How have the parameters for lateral wear been arrived at?
I ride a single speed using a normal MTB frame and an old derailleur as a tensioner. The rings are steel front and back. It's been using the same old chain for over 2 years now. Chain wear is only an issue for those using expensive cassettes and chainrings. Manufacturers love increasing cost, reducing durability and making spares hard to source.
I ride 7 or 8 speed most of the time, a typical inexpensive KMC chain is "spent" after 6 months or so, I keep riding them anyway. I actually think there is more durability in some of the 10/11/12 speed stuff because of efforts made to ensure 6/7/8/9 won't hold up as well.
That said, a chain and cassette costs me less than $60, compared to the $600 for SRAM Eagle, so I'm not crying in the slightest.
wouldn't different size rollers be positioned at different heights in the V shape notch causing the chain to be positioned at different offsets to the holes? what am I missing?
Different roller diameters will line up slightly different in the V notch. The impact of that variable is good for a .035% difference in reading.
Looks amazing! I assume the tool works with Campagnolo 12 and 13 speed chains as well?
can you please show how to check lateral wear of chain on the bike? or do we have to remove the chain off the bike?
Is lateral wear only supposed to be measured at the ends of the chain? I get very different results when I measure in the middle because of the weight of the chain pulling down on the links extending past that shelf on the tool. Results vary similarly if I measure at the end of the chain but press down on the links that extend beyond the shelf (the way Adam does in the Zero Friction Cycling RUclips video where he talks about the new Abbey LL chain wear checker).
The instructions that are engraved on the tool say to extend 5 links from the boss and then take your reading. To clarify, those 5 links need to be on the end of the chain. As you noted, extra links means extra mass and it will throw off the reading by a significant amount.
@@abbeybiketools Thanks for clarifying this. Obviously, then, it’s a mistake to measure at the end of the chain and press down with a finger on the 5 links extending beyond the boss. You might want to urge Adam at ZFC to include a correction in his weekly video. He has tons of followers who are the type to buy a tool like yours and then, based on seeing Adam use the tool wrong, will find all their chains to be at or beyond the lateral wear mark on your tool.
In demonstrating both types of wear, it seems pretty obvious that its most easily done with the chain off the bike?
Measuring lateral wear needs to be done off the bike but linear wear is easier done on the bike, just harder to get on film.
@@abbeybiketools great, thanks
Does work with 13 speed chains
Works with everything from 1/8" to 13speed.
I was thinking of buying one of these: however, USD$137 freight to Australia is just freaking ridiculous; 3 x the cost of the tool itself. Or are you only wanting to sell to the US? The Connex tool costs AUD$20, and $12 to send it from Germany. Who's go the better deal for me?
Same. Would buy, but shipping to Canada is prohibitive.
You should try the local Australian distributors. There's Cycle Motion in WA and Leadout Sports in NSW.
For lateral wear I see a suggested replacement marking. For the length, I’m not clear on limit when to replace?
The threshold for replacement varies a little from one chain model to another so it's not something we can build into the tool. .75% is a pretty good place for 10spd or newer chains. Some people like .5% for 12spd and above though.
When the chain is on the bike, how easy can this device be used?What are the steps necessary for performing the measurements?
seems like as simple as what we have on the market today
Measuring Linear wear (stretch) is as easy as anything else on the market. To measure lateral wear the chain needs to be off the bike though.
@@abbeybiketools while on the bike, could you not just take the chain off the chainring (to the inside or out), and use that slack to put it on the tool?
want
Already sold out. When will they be back in stock?
We're making more tomorrow, should have them back in stock in 3 weeks.
Looks good, but way out for the price. I'll have to take a pass
Do you guys have any tools for proper audio mixing though.
Maybe someday we will hire a marketing person. Until then the toolmakers are going to pretend to be marketing people once in a while.
@@abbeybiketools from now on just hit "mono" when adding audio, ok, toolmakers?