Видео

There's plenty of companies that make cheap tools if that's what you're after. When those tools leave you hanging, you know where to find us.

The instructions that are engraved on the tool say to extend 5 links from the boss and then take your reading. To clarify, those 5 links need to be on the end of the chain. As you noted, extra links means extra mass and it will throw off the reading by a significant amount.

@@abbeybiketools Thanks for clarifying this. Obviously, then, it’s a mistake to measure at the end of the chain and press down with a finger on the 5 links extending beyond the boss. You might want to urge Adam at ZFC to include a correction in his weekly video. He has tons of followers who are the type to buy a tool like yours and then, based on seeing Adam use the tool wrong, will find all their chains to be at or beyond the lateral wear mark on your tool.

Alt/Alt is about to release a very similar tool that solves this specific problem

Same. Would buy, but shipping to Canada is prohibitive.

You should try the local Australian distributors. There's Cycle Motion in WA and Leadout Sports in NSW.

Available in Australia from distributors now! your local bike shop can order it in for you. Or we can post it to you, Fat Duck Cycles in Busselton WA.

Running the entire drivetrain into the ground and replace it all at once can be a cost effective option for older equipment. When cassettes can cost $400 the economics are in favor of more frequent chain replacement. But you do you. We also aren't in the business of selling chains, so it's not like we have anything to gain by anyone replacing them more frequently.

I ride 7 or 8 speed most of the time, a typical inexpensive KMC chain is "spent" after 6 months or so, I keep riding them anyway. I actually think there is more durability in some of the 10/11/12 speed stuff because of efforts made to ensure 6/7/8/9 won't hold up as well. That said, a chain and cassette costs me less than $60, compared to the $600 for SRAM Eagle, so I'm not crying in the slightest.

Measuring lateral wear needs to be done off the bike but linear wear is easier done on the bike, just harder to get on film.

@@abbeybiketools great, thanks

Are you using a 1x chainring?

Look when this was uploaded, it wasn't Google spying on you and only now showing you this video, it was Abbey who first placed this idea in your head and a week later publishes a new tool to fix it! :)

@@utube7930 no, I use a 2x and I’m guilty of occasionally cross chaining. I plan to be more careful about that now, especially since my experience with waxing has shown that the best chain to use, at least forSTAM, is the Red chain. This is because it comes with far less factory lube and is much easier to clean up before waxing so I get better results. So, given that that is the top-of-the-line and most expensive chain, I’d rather be careful and save the money. I have never worn out a Red chain after waxing it (and we are talking 4000+ km). I wasn’t very clear in my post; the worn out chain was probably already worn out laterally when I waxed it in the first place. The mistake I made was to only measure the pin-to-pin distance without understanding that there was lateral wear as well.

We're making more tomorrow, should have them back in stock in 3 weeks.

The threshold for replacement varies a little from one chain model to another so it's not something we can build into the tool. .75% is a pretty good place for 10spd or newer chains. Some people like .5% for 12spd and above though.

Maybe someday we will hire a marketing person. Until then the toolmakers are going to pretend to be marketing people once in a while.

@@abbeybiketools from now on just hit "mono" when adding audio, ok, toolmakers?

Works with everything from 1/8" to 13speed.

Different roller diameters will line up slightly different in the V notch. The impact of that variable is good for a .035% difference in reading.

seems like as simple as what we have on the market today

Measuring Linear wear (stretch) is as easy as anything else on the market. To measure lateral wear the chain needs to be off the bike though.

@@abbeybiketools while on the bike, could you not just take the chain off the chainring (to the inside or out), and use that slack to put it on the tool?

Cost-wise, yes, this is best left for pros. Even as a home mechanic (formerly a shop mechanic), I'd like a set since I'm obsessed with removing bearings impact-free. I'll embarrassingly admit I don't spend the bare minimum for tools where precision and good mechanical design is key, which means my current tool arsenal is already pretty expensive and it's not even complete yet. (it's configured to work on rim brake road bikes with mechanical groupsets)

really would need to be obsessed with spending money; alls needed is a bearing axel of the same size as the bearing, pop it in and expand the axel bearings and screw out.

Yes - better close ups on tools would help

Compare the prices. Park Tool are found in the tool boxes of many mechanics, Abbey Tools in a 'select' few. I buy Chris King parts because their function is measurably better that competitors, I've used Park Tool and a few Abbey tools, and they both do the job within a few % of each other, but Park Tool costs ½ of the Abbey equivalent. & people steal them, apparently.

Usually when there's a bearing spacer or sleave in between a pair of bearings it's just a little bit bigger than the inner race. In that situation these tools work well since you can set the C clip to the correct depth and know that you're expanding the collet in the correct spot to get into that small window of room.

For a lot of applications that's an easy way to do it. There are some applications, like having a bearing spacer between a pair of bearings where having an accurate insertion depth is really nice.

Since this method doesn't use a hammer the bearing races should be fine after extraction.

Knipex 4911-A1

@@abbeybiketools Thank you

It is, we acquired the Noble catalog.

We will start taking orders on 4-17 and shipping by May 1st.